Stus-List Outboard motor bracket

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Hello all,

I've figured out that my outboard motor bracket is a Garlick model rated for 
two stroke models rated at 85 lbs.  The previous owner put on a four stroke at 
120 lbs so I need to replace the bracket.  Has anyone done this?My transom 
is reinforced with an aluminum sheet and is very sturdy so that's taken care 
of.   I was thinking if going to a Garlick model that is rated for four 
strokes.  There are two models and I was thinking of buying the heavier duty of 
the two that gives 15" of travel.  I was also thinking of just putting a fixed 
mount on the back as I only use the electric trim to tilt the motor up.  Any 
opinions on this idea?   Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL
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Re: Stus-List Removing Polyglow

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Floor stripper (I used Zep Heavy Duty concentrate – mixed stronger than one 
would do for floors).

 

Gary

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 15, 2016 12:01 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Removing Polyglow

 

Pretty sure they sell a product called poly-strip just for that purpose. 

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On May 15, 2016 10:43 AM, "Jerome Tauber via CnC-List"  > wrote:

Any suggestions for removing Polyglow other than their own product?   Will 
Ammonia work?  Thanks.  Jerry. J 27mkV.


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Re: Stus-List Harken furler extrusion repair

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I'm impressed.  Very nice solution.

My buddy and I have encountered the same issue a couple times.  Being
Harken installers, we usually disassembled the furler and reinstalled with
spare parts we happen to keep around for just such a purpose.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
On the hard in Pensacola Shipyard

On Sun, May 15, 2016 at 11:47 AM, Dave Syer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> see below for details on my recent repair of a harken furler extrusion -
> badly worn at the top.
>
> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/
>
> Dave Windstar, '85 33ii
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Removing Polyglow

[Joseph Bognar via CnC-List]

Ammonia will work great . Once you remove it you really don't need it . I found 
that a product called Aquabuff works the best on gelcoat to bring back the 
shine 

Sent from Joe Bognar


> On May 15, 2016, at 11:41 AM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Any suggestions for removing Polyglow other than their own product?   Will 
> Ammonia work?  Thanks.  Jerry. J 27mkV.  
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Stus-List Harken furler extrusion repair

[Dave Syer via CnC-List]

see below for details on my recent repair of a harken furler extrusion -
badly worn at the top.

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/

Dave Windstar, '85 33ii
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Re: Stus-List Removing Polyglow

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Pretty sure they sell a product called poly-strip just for that purpose.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On May 15, 2016 10:43 AM, "Jerome Tauber via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Any suggestions for removing Polyglow other than their own product?   Will
Ammonia work?  Thanks.  Jerry. J 27mkV.


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Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Removing Polyglow

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Acrylic floor stripper works pretty well. Zep brand is the one most
recommended.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 15 May 2016 at 08:55, Persuasion37 via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Easy Off oven cleaner.  We have washed our boat several times with EasyOff
> and have not seen any detrimental effects to the gelcoat.  Be careful it
> will burn your skin.
>
> Polyglow you love then you hate it.
>
> Mike
> C 37
> Long Sault, ON
>
>
>
> > On May 15, 2016, at 11:41 AM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > Any suggestions for removing Polyglow other than their own product?
>  Will Ammonia work?  Thanks.  Jerry. J 27mkV.
> >
> >
> > ___
> >
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Removing Polyglow

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Easy Off oven cleaner.  We have washed our boat several times with EasyOff and 
have not seen any detrimental effects to the gelcoat.  Be careful it will burn 
your skin.

Polyglow you love then you hate it.

Mike
C 37
Long Sault, ON



> On May 15, 2016, at 11:41 AM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Any suggestions for removing Polyglow other than their own product?   Will 
> Ammonia work?  Thanks.  Jerry. J 27mkV.  
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Stus-List Removing Polyglow

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Any suggestions for removing Polyglow other than their own product?   Will 
Ammonia work?  Thanks.  Jerry. J 27mkV.  


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Re: Stus-List Through hole location for bilge outputs

[donaldsebastian via CnC-List]

That makes sense.   Need to work out my sensors and locations. 
The location of my bilge pump and sensor area only holds about a gallon of 
water.   That is the lowest location in the bilge and then it spreads out below 
the floor.  
 Do all c and c's have that small bilge spot for the pump or is that just 
because of my drop keel?

Donald
 Original message From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/13/16  1:21 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Marek Dziedzic  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Through hole location for bilge outputs 



Donald,
 
many would argue that a one-way valve is not a good idea in a bilge pump. I 
can’t speak from my own experience, but many (wise) people talk about the 
one-way valves clogging and severely restricting the flow.
 
If you want to prevent the water flowing back from the big pump, you can 
use the small pump for that (i.e. you let the water to flow back, but remove it 
with a smaller pump (smaller hose, smaller amount of water there, lower in the 
bilge).
 
Marek
C270 “Legato”
Ottawa, ON


 

From: Donald Sebastian via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, May 13, 2016 11:00
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Donald Sebastian 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Through hole location for bilge 
outputs
 
Gene, 

 
I was actually going to do the same thing on my boat.    
Just recently purchased a boat and had a bilge pump but was not automatic.
 
I actually hooked the current smaller pump that fits into the small well 
and did install a float valve but had to attached it slightly higher that the 
pump just because it wouldn’t fit tin the small well.
 
I am going to add a second pump and sensor  and looking at the option 
below. 
 
 
The plan is to attach a smaller electronic bilge pump switch that i can 
epoxy to the side of the small well.
 
Then add a larger external pump that will have a hose running to that 
well.  This hose will have a one way valve in that well to prevent the 
water from flowing back into the well and keep the pump from cycling on and off 
with flow back.
 
Then I plan to put a y connector to the current hose near the exit point of 
the boat.  I do plan to put 2 one way valve on each hose at this point to 
keep water form being pumped back into the other pump hose and assume flow to 
the outside.
 
 
The sensor and pump are here:
 
http://www.iboats.com/Johnson-Pumps-Ultima-Bilge-Switch/dm/cart_id.141200884--session_id.712849042--view_id.49248
 
http://www.pbsboatstore.com/Jabsco-31705-0092.htm
 
 
Donald
 
 
 
 
 

 

On May 12, 2016, at 1:14 PM, Eugene Fodor via CnC-List  
wrote:


  Hi Folks, 
   
  I just purchased a C 29 Mark II, Hawk, and I'm looking for advise 
  on upgrading the bilge pump situation. There is no auto pump in the boat 
which 
  scares the hell out of me, so that's the first improvement in order. I'm 
  following Don Casey's advise on putting in a small automatic bilge pump at 
the 
  very bottom and then I plan to put in a larger one above it for when I really 
  need to move water (which hopefully never happens).  So here's my 
  question:
   
  Question 1: Where to put the through hole for the output? I'm thinking 
  about halfway between the midship and stern and just below the deck hull 
  joint. That way if the rail is buried it still won't siphon. This hole/hose 
  will be 1/2 inch.
   
  Question 2: For the larger pump, I'm wondering if it would be acceptable 
  to put in a Y connector shared with the manual bilde pump to avoid putting 
  another hole in the hull. I would put the connector right above the 
  throughhole assuming it fits so that gravity would ensure that they don't 
pump 
  back into the other hose. This hole/hose will be over 1". The current one 
goes 
  out above the water line in the stern.
   
  Thanks,
   
  Gene Fodor
  "Hawk", 29 mark II
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  list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what 
  we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
  greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Lifeline netting

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

This is a case where black nylon line might be preferable, if you really want 
the knots to stay in the same place on the life lines. Works especially good if 
you soak it in water first. Nylon's otherwise annoying tendency to weld itself 
into un-pickable knots could be an advantage in this situation. 

Steve Thomas

 Rick Brass via CnC-List  wrote: 
Best lifeline netting I’ve seen was on a boat in the marina I manage. Made from 
the material used for backstop netting in baseball diamonds, by a company whose 
primary business was sports backstops. Order a kit by size needed, and IIRC 
cost a bit over $100 to do a Morgan OI41. 

 

Black in color so one does not see it. UV resistant for very long life. 
Something like a 3” square pattern of fabric reinforced by a nylon thread. Came 
with rings to attach  to the lifelines and toe rails. Can’t recall the name of 
the manufacturer, but have it in a file on the boat somewhere.

 

For the time being, I use the technique Dennis suggested: Dacron luff cord 
woven in a diamond pattern in the lifelines.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC


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