Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux

[Bmue via CnC-List]

Hi Mike,
Quikrete, polyurethane, self levelling 
Bettina

> On May 28, 2016, at 10:46, Persuasion via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Bettina
> 
> Just wondering what was the caulk you used along the toe rail.
> 
> Thanks
> Mike
> PERSUASION
> C 37 K/CB
> Long Sault
> 
> Sent from my Xperia™ tablet
> 
> 
> 
>  Bmue via CnC-List wrote 
> 
> Ryan,
> Nice job.
> Re finishing the topside.
> Just do it. 
> 
> We fell into the same "trap" you did, refinished the hull, from a dull 
> battleship grey to a bright blue and white last year, which made the beige or 
> whatever colour the deck was look grimy (nevermind the cockpit that had 
> mismatched instrumentation aka old cut outs that were patched up, patches of 
> old repair work on the deck etc)  In addition there was almost no grip left 
> on the foredeck which made moving around during a race "interesting"
> 
> 3 intense weeks of two of us working some long evenings (for masking of the 
> kiwi grip I recruited two extra handy helpers- 7h later it was done) and the 
> boat literally looks like new (lots of oohs and aaahhhs during launch and at 
> the dock since then) . Btw, this included resetting a couple of stanchions, 
> fixing a couple of soft spots and filling instrument holes in the cockpit. 
> 
> My tip, remove as much hardware as you can. However, we left some cleats and 
> blocks in as they were too difficult to remove and we figured what is set 
> that fast and doesn't leak we better leave alone. I made up some "special" 
> kiwigrip tools by cutting one of the rollers, stripping it off the roll and 
> hot glueing it on a small paintbrush and a small square patch on a Popsicle 
> stick...worked like a charm in the areas where the roller couldn't reach.
> 
> The interlux brightside was easy to apply - anybody who has ever 
> painted/varnished with reasonable results and good eyesight should not have a 
> problem. You are right about sanding out every run, I missed a couple but I 
> think I will be the only one who'll notice. The kiwigrip is super easy to 
> apply and very, very forgiving, I was surprised. And the best of it all, it 
> feels safe running around the foredeck no more sliding around on the rounded 
> parts of the deck. 
> 
> Lastly, we used some self-levelling type caulk (recommended by practical 
> sailor) along the toe rail as we suspected a leak somewhere along there, but 
> can't bring ourselves to even think about resetting it . Good news, after 
> three days of torrential rains, no leaks whatsoever, bad news, the stuff 
> somehow reacts with the interlux aka the paint didn't dry (we left the caulk 
> to dry for a month prior to painting) However, it seems the last time I was 
> at the boat the sun finally baked the paint on? 
> 
> In summary, lots of work, doable, and really, the old lady deserved a 
> makeover. I'd certainly do it again and even the somewhat reluctant husband 
> finally came around.
> 
> Bettina
> 
> C 25 Savannah
> 
> 
> 
> > On May 26, 2016, at 21:24, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List  
> > wrote:
> > 
> > at
> 
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> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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> 
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> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Installing linear autohelm on LF38

[Richard N. Bush via CnC-List]

 Don't know if its the same, I installed one on my 37...I do have a couple of 
pics, let me know and I'll send offline...thanks

 


Richard

Richard N. Bush  
185 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Jason & Amanda Ward via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Jason & Amanda Ward 
Sent: Sun, May 29, 2016 9:33 pm
Subject: Stus-List Installing linear autohelm on LF38



 
Good Day Everyone.  Now that the sailing season is upon us life is good again.  
Life would be even better if I was able to use my autohelm.  I have purchased 
an Raymarine EV200 linear drive unit and am trying to figure out how to install 
it below deck.  As all C owners know there is very little room at the best of 
times and it appears that when they made the LF38, autohelm was never even a 
consideration.
 
I was wondering if there are any other LF owners out there that have 
successfully installed a linear below deck drive that would be willing to pass 
on their installation process.  Photos would also be appreciated.
 
Life is good on a boat, even when you are fixing her.
 
Good sailing and hope to talk soon.
 
Jason
Starship LF38
Lake Winnipeg, Manitoba
 





Virus-free. www.avast.com   



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Re: Stus-List Installing linear autohelm on LF38

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Jason — there is absolutely no room for a tiller arm on the LF38; you need to 
attach the ram directly to the quadrant, at the proper distance from the center 
of the rudder post for the drive you got.  One option is to orient the ram 
forward to aft, on the port side of the rudder post (access via the port 
quarter berth access hatch).  Otherwise, about your only other option is to 
have the ram oriented athwartship, forward of the rudder post, with the access 
through the cockpit locker.

There are no easy steering system jobs on the LF38.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On May 29, 2016, at 8:32 PM, Jason & Amanda Ward via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Good Day Everyone.  Now that the sailing season is upon us life is good 
> again.  Life would be even better if I was able to use my autohelm.  I have 
> purchased an Raymarine EV200 linear drive unit and am trying to figure out 
> how to install it below deck.  As all C owners know there is very little 
> room at the best of times and it appears that when they made the LF38, 
> autohelm was never even a consideration.
>  
> I was wondering if there are any other LF owners out there that have 
> successfully installed a linear below deck drive that would be willing to 
> pass on their installation process.  Photos would also be appreciated.
>  
> Life is good on a boat, even when you are fixing her.
>  
> Good sailing and hope to talk soon.
>  
> Jason
> Starship LF38
> Lake Winnipeg, Manitoba

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Re: Stus-List my experience with interlux

[Bmue via CnC-List]

Yes, although most of the deck/ cabin top has kiwi grip due to all the rounded 
sections and the fact that most of this gets walked on.  We washed , sanded, 
washed the entire boat, primed the areas that had fibreglass work done as well 
as the areas under the brightside paint, the rest just got the kiwi grip over 
the old paint. 

Turned out alright that way. 

> On May 29, 2016, at 7:54, Ryan Doyle via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Oops.  Sorry guys.  Replied with the digest again.
> 
> --
> Hi Bettina,
> 
> Thanks!  Did you do kiwi grip for the non skid sections and Brightside on the 
> rest of your deck and cabin top?
> 
> Ryan 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Radar power wire

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I know...  I don't have it here at the boat...
Thanks


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/29/16  7:19 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Frederick G Street  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Radar power wire 
Danny — RTFM…   :^)
Page 16 of the HD Digital Radome Scanner user’s guide:
Grounding

These grounding requirements are applicable for Raymarine equipment supplied 
with a separate drain wire or screen.

• The product power cable drain conductor (screen) must be connected to a 
common ground point.

• It is recommended that the common ground point is a bonded ground, i.e. with 
the ground point connected to battery negative, and situated as close as 
possible to the battery negative terminal. If a bonded ground system is not 
possible, a non-bonded RF ground may be used.
So tie it with the black wire to the power source (DC breaker).

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI


On May 29, 2016, at 5:15 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List  
wrote:
Hi guys, 
I need a little wiring advice.
There are 3 wires for the radar power. RedGreenBlack
Red to breakerBlack to ground barGreen to ...?  
ThanksDanny
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Re: Stus-List Radar power wire

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Danny — RTFM…   :^)

Page 16 of the HD Digital Radome Scanner user’s guide:

> Grounding
> 
> These grounding requirements are applicable for Raymarine equipment supplied 
> with a separate drain wire or screen.
> 
> • The product power cable drain conductor (screen) must be connected to a 
> common ground point.
> 
> • It is recommended that the common ground point is a bonded ground, i.e. 
> with the ground point connected to battery negative, and situated as close as 
> possible to the battery negative terminal. If a bonded ground system is not 
> possible, a non-bonded RF ground may be used.

So tie it with the black wire to the power source (DC breaker).


— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On May 29, 2016, at 5:15 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi guys, 
> 
> I need a little wiring advice.
> 
> There are 3 wires for the radar power. 
> Red
> Green
> Black
> 
> Red to breaker
> Black to ground bar
> Green to ...?  
> 
> Thanks
> Danny

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Stus-List Radar power wire

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi guys, 
I need a little wiring advice.
There are 3 wires for the radar power. RedGreenBlack
Red to breakerBlack to ground barGreen to ...?  
ThanksDanny
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Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR

[svpegasus38]

Tom, lots of good suggestions so far. I have one other. When was the last 
time your heat exchanger tubes were rodded out? If you are unfamiliar with 
this, these are the tubes you see inside when the cap is removed. There should 
be a cap on at least 1 end to access the raw water side of the exchanger. If 
even some are plugged it will cause overheating. I had about 40% of mine 
plugged coming back from Port Townsend. It was an 85* day and no wind (of 
coarse) could only motor at 1400 or the alarm would go off. I cleaned mine 
using diluted miuratic acid to soften the build up. Then i rinsed it good, 
followed bu cleaning the tube with some twisted safety wire in my drill. And a 
final wash with the miuratic acid, and another good rinse. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List Date: Sun, May 
29, 2016 09:04To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Tom Buscaglia;Subject:Stus-List 
Overheating YANMAR
We are on our first extended cruise of the year for a clubevent in Olympia WA 
and are hiving a problem with overheating with our3HM35 Yanmar.  Here's the 
deal...

We usually run as about 26-2800 RPM.  Depending on the condition ofthe bottom 
and the prop, that gives us between 6.5-7.3 KTS.  We havehad some intermittent 
issues with overheating, but it was usually mepushing too hard in heavy seas or 
running above the usual RPMrange.  Backing off always relieved the problem.  
And we haveno gauge, so this is all based on the alarm which may or may not 
beaccurate.

As we were heading out this time the Admiral was at the helm and I wasbelow 
messing with something and the alarm went off as we were running atabout 2200 
RPM.  We were able to run at under 2000, but above thatthe alarm sounded and we 
had to back down. We continued on at 4.5KTS.

I checked the strainer and through hull.  All good there. Water seems to be 
exiting the exhaust as usual. I am planning on a haulout and bottom job next 
month, and did not have a diver clean the bottomand prop (should have done that 
for sure).  My assumption was thatthe barnacles on the prop and dirty bottom, 
along with the 15-20 KT headwind were taxing the engine and causing the 
overheating.  But the"experts" in my club feel otherwise.

I tried to get at the gooseneck to see if that might be theproblem.  I was able 
to get the water hose off and poke around inthere with a wire, but decided that 
pulling the exhaust hose was notsomething to try 30 miles from home as if I 
screwed it up and damages theexhaust hose I could be stuck here for  a while.  

I have heard all of the problem YANMAR's have with exhaust back up and 
amwondering if that may actually be the problem.   I have asked tohave it 
checked every tine I get the engine serviced, but there's notelling what that 
entailed or even if it was doneso, when she goesinto the yard for the pain 
job I think replacing the gooseneck with thestainless aftermarket one may be in 
order. 

Here are my questions:

1.  Can the dirty bottomand barnacle encrusted prop- result in an 
overheating problem?

2.  Would a carboned upgooseneck cause a problem like the one I am 
experiencing?

3.  Where can I get oneof those nifty aftermarket stainless goosenecks?

Any additional suggestions are welcome and appreciated!

thx

Tom B
.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com




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Re: Stus-List Overheating

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

When I rep[laced my water heater, the first time I ran the engine, it
overheated until I added water/antifreeze to the heart exchanger.  Make
sure your heat exchanger is topped off.  Also, there is a valve that
adjusts the amount of hot water that's diverted to the hot water heater.
If too much is diverted, it can cause the engine to overheat.  A clogged
heat exchanger can also cause the overheating problem.

I replaced my mixing elbow, last year, when I found a pin hole in it.  When
I removed the elbow, it practically fell apart (rusted).  Heating the elbow
and the piece that attaches to the manifold with a torch, and trying to
separate the two pieces with a six foot wrench couldn't budge them.  I
finally replaced both pieces.  At the same time I replaced the exhaust
hoses.  The cast iron elbow lasted thirty years.  No need for you to use
stainless.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


We are on our first extended cruise of the year for a club event in Olympia
WA and are hiving a problem with overheating with our 3HM35 Yanmar.  Here's
the deal...

We usually run as about 26-2800 RPM.  Depending on the condition of the
bottom and the prop, that gives us between 6.5-7.3 KTS.  We have had some
intermittent issues with overheating, but it was usually me pushing too
hard in heavy seas or running above the usual RPM range.  Backing off
always relieved the problem.  And we have no gauge, so this is all based on
the alarm which may or may not be accurate.

As we were heading out this time the Admiral was at the helm and I was
below messing with something and the alarm went off as we were running at
about 2200 RPM.  We were able to run at under 2000, but above that the
alarm sounded and we had to back down. We continued on at 4.5 KTS.

I checked the strainer and through hull.  All good there.  Water seems to
be exiting the exhaust as usual. I am planning on a haul out and bottom job
next month, and did not have a diver clean the bottom and prop (should have
done that for sure).  My assumption was that the barnacles on the prop and
dirty bottom, along with the 15-20 KT head wind were taxing the engine and
causing the overheating.  But the "experts" in my club feel otherwise.

I tried to get at the gooseneck to see if that might be the problem.  I was
able to get the water hose off and poke around in there with a wire, but
decided that pulling the exhaust hose was not something to try 30 miles
from home as if I screwed it up and damages the exhaust hose I could be
stuck here for  a while.

I have heard all of the problem YANMAR's have with exhaust back up and am
wondering if that may actually be the problem.  I have asked to have it
checked every tine I get the engine serviced, but there's no telling what
that entailed or even if it was doneso, when she goes into the yard for
the pain job I think replacing the gooseneck with the stainless aftermarket
one may be in order.

Here are my questions:

1.  Can the dirty bottom and barnacle encrusted prop- result in an
overheating problem?

2.  Would a carboned up gooseneck cause a problem like the one I am
experiencing?

3.  Where can I get one of those nifty aftermarket stainless goosenecks?

Any additional suggestions are welcome and appreciated!

thx

Tom B
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Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR

[rshibe via CnC-List]

If your engine is fresh water cooled confirm your anti freeze mix is no more 
than 50:50.
Yes it will over heat, been there.
Ray Shibe ...Yanmar 3HM 
Sent from my iPad

> On May 29, 2016, at 12:59, Rick Rohwer via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Tom
> 
> Sorry to hear about your issue! I was going to suggest a look at the through 
> hull as we had sucked a sardine into ours in desolation sound a while back, 
> but in that case the flow of water was drastically changed.  Backing down on 
> the engine to idle allowed for a return to port.  
> I have had some problems in the past with other boats where the buildup of 
> crud both in the heat exchanger and the exhaust elbow slowly choked the 
> cooling system.  In combination with dirty bottom, headwinds, or tides it may 
> have stretched to the capacity of what cooling you have.
> Usually the major culprit for me was the elbow (as you are thinking).  I am 
> overdue for a replacement as well so I have been watching them on ebay.  I 
> have pulled one on a previous vessel that literally fell apart as I was 
> wrenching on it.
> I do question whether stainless steel will hold up better in this 
> application. Heat, oxygen, and chlorides are real problems with stainless 
> steel.  Any opinions on replacement with stainless over cast iron for this 
> area? Titanium would be awesome!
> It sounds like you are similar as well in that when we go south the wind is 
> in our face, and on the return, yep, in the face again.  We hope to do a 
> south sound swing in June as well!
> Fair seas,
> 
> Rick
> 
> Paikea 37+
> Poulsbo, WA 
>> On May 29, 2016, at 9:03 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> We are on our first extended cruise of the year for a club event in Olympia 
>> WA and are hiving a problem with overheating with our 3HM35 Yanmar.  Here's 
>> the deal...
>> 
>> We usually run as about 26-2800 RPM.  Depending on the condition of the 
>> bottom and the prop, that gives us between 6.5-7.3 KTS.  We have had some 
>> intermittent issues with overheating, but it was usually me pushing too hard 
>> in heavy seas or running above the usual RPM range.  Backing off always 
>> relieved the problem.  And we have no gauge, so this is all based on the 
>> alarm which may or may not be accurate.
>> 
>> As we were heading out this time the Admiral was at the helm and I was below 
>> messing with something and the alarm went off as we were running at about 
>> 2200 RPM.  We were able to run at under 2000, but above that the alarm 
>> sounded and we had to back down. We continued on at 4.5 KTS.
>> 
>> I checked the strainer and through hull.  All good there.  Water seems to be 
>> exiting the exhaust as usual. I am planning on a haul out and bottom job 
>> next month, and did not have a diver clean the bottom and prop (should have 
>> done that for sure).  My assumption was that the barnacles on the prop and 
>> dirty bottom, along with the 15-20 KT head wind were taxing the engine and 
>> causing the overheating.  But the "experts" in my club feel otherwise.
>> 
>> I tried to get at the gooseneck to see if that might be the problem.  I was 
>> able to get the water hose off and poke around in there with a wire, but 
>> decided that pulling the exhaust hose was not something to try 30 miles from 
>> home as if I screwed it up and damages the exhaust hose I could be stuck 
>> here for  a while.  
>> 
>> I have heard all of the problem YANMAR's have with exhaust back up and am 
>> wondering if that may actually be the problem.  I have asked to have it 
>> checked every tine I get the engine serviced, but there's no telling what 
>> that entailed or even if it was doneso, when she goes into the yard for 
>> the pain job I think replacing the gooseneck with the stainless aftermarket 
>> one may be in order. 
>> 
>> Here are my questions:
>> 
>> 1.  Can the dirty bottom and barnacle encrusted prop- result in an 
>> overheating problem?
>> 
>> 2.  Would a carboned up gooseneck cause a problem like the one I am 
>> experiencing?
>> 
>> 3.  Where can I get one of those nifty aftermarket stainless goosenecks?
>> 
>> Any additional suggestions are welcome and appreciated!
>> 
>> thx
>> 
>> Tom B
>> .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
>> Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
>> SV Alera
>> C 37+/40
>> Vashon Island WA
>> (206) 463-9200
>> www.sv-alera.com 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Hi Tom

Sorry to hear about your issue! I was going to suggest a look at the through 
hull as we had sucked a sardine into ours in desolation sound a while back, but 
in that case the flow of water was drastically changed.  Backing down on the 
engine to idle allowed for a return to port.  
I have had some problems in the past with other boats where the buildup of crud 
both in the heat exchanger and the exhaust elbow slowly choked the cooling 
system.  In combination with dirty bottom, headwinds, or tides it may have 
stretched to the capacity of what cooling you have.
Usually the major culprit for me was the elbow (as you are thinking).  I am 
overdue for a replacement as well so I have been watching them on ebay.  I have 
pulled one on a previous vessel that literally fell apart as I was wrenching on 
it.
I do question whether stainless steel will hold up better in this application. 
Heat, oxygen, and chlorides are real problems with stainless steel.  Any 
opinions on replacement with stainless over cast iron for this area? Titanium 
would be awesome!
It sounds like you are similar as well in that when we go south the wind is in 
our face, and on the return, yep, in the face again.  We hope to do a south 
sound swing in June as well!
Fair seas,

Rick

Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA 
> On May 29, 2016, at 9:03 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> We are on our first extended cruise of the year for a club event in Olympia 
> WA and are hiving a problem with overheating with our 3HM35 Yanmar.  Here's 
> the deal...
> 
> We usually run as about 26-2800 RPM.  Depending on the condition of the 
> bottom and the prop, that gives us between 6.5-7.3 KTS.  We have had some 
> intermittent issues with overheating, but it was usually me pushing too hard 
> in heavy seas or running above the usual RPM range.  Backing off always 
> relieved the problem.  And we have no gauge, so this is all based on the 
> alarm which may or may not be accurate.
> 
> As we were heading out this time the Admiral was at the helm and I was below 
> messing with something and the alarm went off as we were running at about 
> 2200 RPM.  We were able to run at under 2000, but above that the alarm 
> sounded and we had to back down. We continued on at 4.5 KTS.
> 
> I checked the strainer and through hull.  All good there.  Water seems to be 
> exiting the exhaust as usual. I am planning on a haul out and bottom job next 
> month, and did not have a diver clean the bottom and prop (should have done 
> that for sure).  My assumption was that the barnacles on the prop and dirty 
> bottom, along with the 15-20 KT head wind were taxing the engine and causing 
> the overheating.  But the "experts" in my club feel otherwise.
> 
> I tried to get at the gooseneck to see if that might be the problem.  I was 
> able to get the water hose off and poke around in there with a wire, but 
> decided that pulling the exhaust hose was not something to try 30 miles from 
> home as if I screwed it up and damages the exhaust hose I could be stuck here 
> for  a while.  
> 
> I have heard all of the problem YANMAR's have with exhaust back up and am 
> wondering if that may actually be the problem.  I have asked to have it 
> checked every tine I get the engine serviced, but there's no telling what 
> that entailed or even if it was doneso, when she goes into the yard for 
> the pain job I think replacing the gooseneck with the stainless aftermarket 
> one may be in order. 
> 
> Here are my questions:
> 
> 1.  Can the dirty bottom and barnacle encrusted prop- result in an 
> overheating problem?
> 
> 2.  Would a carboned up gooseneck cause a problem like the one I am 
> experiencing?
> 
> 3.  Where can I get one of those nifty aftermarket stainless goosenecks?
> 
> Any additional suggestions are welcome and appreciated!
> 
> thx
> 
> Tom B
> .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
> Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com  
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Overheating YANMAR

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Tom,

You didn’t say anything about reduced water flow.  That would be the first 
indicator for over heating, and I’d check your impeller first and then ALL the 
hoses for scale.  I’ve seen a lot of stuff stuck to the walls of the hose 
between the strainer and the water pump.  The entrance to the water pump is 
surprisingly small, and a scrap of scale could easily reduce the flow.  Work 
through all the hoses, and see if your flow doesn’t increase.  Yes the little 
one to the exhaust elbow gets clogged easy.

Everyone wants to go nuclear, worst it can be before doing the easy stuff.  Or 
maybe you already did all that. . .

2 cents, Lee 



On May 29, 2016, at 9:03 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
wrote:

> We are on our first extended cruise of the year for a club event in Olympia 
> WA and are hiving a problem with overheating with our 3HM35 Yanmar.  Here's 
> the deal...
> 
> We usually run as about 26-2800 RPM.  Depending on the condition of the 
> bottom and the prop, that gives us between 6.5-7.3 KTS.  We have had some 
> intermittent issues with overheating, but it was usually me pushing too hard 
> in heavy seas or running above the usual RPM range.  Backing off always 
> relieved the problem.  And we have no gauge, so this is all based on the 
> alarm which may or may not be accurate.
> 
> As we were heading out this time the Admiral was at the helm and I was below 
> messing with something and the alarm went off as we were running at about 
> 2200 RPM.  We were able to run at under 2000, but above that the alarm 
> sounded and we had to back down. We continued on at 4.5 KTS.
> 
> I checked the strainer and through hull.  All good there.  Water seems to be 
> exiting the exhaust as usual. I am planning on a haul out and bottom job next 
> month, and did not have a diver clean the bottom and prop (should have done 
> that for sure).  My assumption was that the barnacles on the prop and dirty 
> bottom, along with the 15-20 KT head wind were taxing the engine and causing 
> the overheating.  But the "experts" in my club feel otherwise.
> 
> I tried to get at the gooseneck to see if that might be the problem.  I was 
> able to get the water hose off and poke around in there with a wire, but 
> decided that pulling the exhaust hose was not something to try 30 miles from 
> home as if I screwed it up and damages the exhaust hose I could be stuck here 
> for  a while.  
> 
> I have heard all of the problem YANMAR's have with exhaust back up and am 
> wondering if that may actually be the problem.  I have asked to have it 
> checked every tine I get the engine serviced, but there's no telling what 
> that entailed or even if it was doneso, when she goes into the yard for 
> the pain job I think replacing the gooseneck with the stainless aftermarket 
> one may be in order. 
> 
> Here are my questions:
> 
> 1.  Can the dirty bottom and barnacle encrusted prop- result in an 
> overheating problem?
> 
> 2.  Would a carboned up gooseneck cause a problem like the one I am 
> experiencing?
> 
> 3.  Where can I get one of those nifty aftermarket stainless goosenecks?
> 
> Any additional suggestions are welcome and appreciated!
> 
> thx
> 
> Tom B
> .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
> Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Stus-List my experience with interlux

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

you must have hear me cursing you...

It's OK...I just posted referring to an exhaust 
elbo as a gooseneck.. Guess we all have our lapses!


At 09:00 AM 5/29/2016, you wrote:

Message: 2
Date: Sun, 29 May 2016 09:54:39 -0400
From: Ryan Doyle 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List my experience with interlux
Message-ID: <571fc24e-97f8-4274-b820-0db880d33...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=us-ascii

Oops.  Sorry guys.  Replied with the digest again.

--
Hi Bettina,

Thanks!  Did you do kiwi grip for the non skid 
sections and Brightside on the rest of your deck and cabin top?


Ryan

Sent from my iPhone


.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


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Stus-List Overheating YANMAR

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

We are on our first extended cruise of the year 
for a club event in Olympia WA and are hiving a 
problem with overheating with our 3HM35 Yanmar.  Here's the deal...


We usually run as about 26-2800 RPM.  Depending 
on the condition of the bottom and the prop, that 
gives us between 6.5-7.3 KTS.  We have had some 
intermittent issues with overheating, but it was 
usually me pushing too hard in heavy seas or 
running above the usual RPM range.  Backing off 
always relieved the problem.  And we have no 
gauge, so this is all based on the alarm which may or may not be accurate.


As we were heading out this time the Admiral was 
at the helm and I was below messing with 
something and the alarm went off as we were 
running at about 2200 RPM.  We were able to run 
at under 2000, but above that the alarm sounded 
and we had to back down. We continued on at 4.5 KTS.


I checked the strainer and through hull.  All 
good there.  Water seems to be exiting the 
exhaust as usual. I am planning on a haul out and 
bottom job next month, and did not have a diver 
clean the bottom and prop (should have done that 
for sure).  My assumption was that the barnacles 
on the prop and dirty bottom, along with the 
15-20 KT head wind were taxing the engine and 
causing the overheating.  But the "experts" in my club feel otherwise.


I tried to get at the gooseneck to see if that 
might be the problem.  I was able to get the 
water hose off and poke around in there with a 
wire, but decided that pulling the exhaust hose 
was not something to try 30 miles from home as if 
I screwed it up and damages the exhaust hose I 
could be stuck here for  a while.


I have heard all of the problem YANMAR's have 
with exhaust back up and am wondering if that may 
actually be the problem.  I have asked to have it 
checked every tine I get the engine serviced, but 
there's no telling what that entailed or even if 
it was doneso, when she goes into the yard 
for the pain job I think replacing the gooseneck 
with the stainless aftermarket one may be in order.


Here are my questions:

1.  Can the dirty bottom and barnacle 
encrusted prop- result in an overheating problem?


2.  Would a carboned up gooseneck cause a 
problem like the one I am experiencing?


3.  Where can I get one of those nifty aftermarket stainless goosenecks?

Any additional suggestions are welcome and appreciated!

thx

Tom B

.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


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Re: Stus-List Holding Tank Woes - 30-2

[Larry via CnC-List]

Pete

I own a 1986 MKIII. Everything is 100% accessible and very little snaking
needed to be done. Some of the hose had been replaced by the previous owner
but the pump-out hose (10-ft) and the hose from the y valve to the holding
tank were original. The head was actually plumb with fuel line. The line had
an 1.5" id and  2" od. It was supposed to be red in color. But it was black
in color near the holding tank (guess why). I had a bad odor in the boat and
now I know why. 

 

So I pulled everything, including the holding tank and cleaned the area and
replaced the hoses. 

 

The red fuel line used were not coming off the fitting. I tried every trick
in the book. I could break them free and they would turn freely on the
fittings, but they were so old and rigid, there was a chance of snapping the
fitting. I did not want to put too much force on the though hull, for
obvious reasons. I ended up cutting the hose off with a hack saw (the hose
had heavy duty ss wire tightly wrapped inside and would dull the hacksaw
blade quickly). Once the hose was cut, I could pull the wire out of the hose
on the fitting. Once that was done the rubber part came off easily. 

 

As far as snacking the hose. I would attached a piece of shroud line on the
old hose (poke a hole and tie it on), and as you pull it out the line will
follow. You should be able to use that to help snake it back through. I have
done that trick with houses and pex line.

Larry

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of kelly
petew via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 29, 2016 7:22 AM
To: cnc-list
Cc: kelly petew
Subject: Stus-List Holding Tank Woes - 30-2

 

Earlier this week, I launched my 30-2 after spending the winter [Va.] on the
hard.  The boat had been blocked slightly bow UP, as usual.
When it was splashed, about a gallon of effluent, mixed with anti-freeze,
rushed into the bilge.  After some checking, I am 95% sure my waste system
has a leak.
 
As yet, I have not determined if a hose or the tank has failed.  Last fall I
pumped it "dry" and added a gallon or so of anti-freeze, as usual.
 
The tank sits in the bottom of the cockpit locker, under a false flooring.
Looks like it will come out through the opening, but I'm worried about
removing the hoses - both off the tank as well as out of the boat.  They
"snake" their way through some inaccessible places.  My manual lacks a
schematic.
I'm sure the system is original equipment.  Can anyone share some "tips and
tricks" on breaking loose hoses?  P.B. Blaster?  heat? 
 
thanks,
 
Pete W.
Siren Song
'91 C 30-II
Deltaville, Va.

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Stus-List Holding Tank Woes - 30-2

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Earlier this week, I launched my 30-2 after spending the winter [Va.] on the 
hard.  The boat had been blocked slightly bow UP, as usual.
When it was splashed, about a gallon of effluent, mixed with anti-freeze, 
rushed into the bilge.  After some checking, I am 95% sure my waste system has 
a leak.
 
As yet, I have not determined if a hose or the tank has failed.  Last fall I 
pumped it "dry" and added a gallon or so of anti-freeze, as usual.
 
The tank sits in the bottom of the cockpit locker, under a false flooring.  
Looks like it will come out through the opening, but I'm worried about removing 
the hoses - both off the tank as well as out of the boat.  They "snake" their 
way through some inaccessible places.  My manual lacks a schematic.
I'm sure the system is original equipment.  Can anyone share some "tips and 
tricks" on breaking loose hoses?  P.B. Blaster?  heat? 
 
thanks,
 
Pete W.
Siren Song
'91 C 30-II
Deltaville, Va.
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine in Halifax?

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

The Binnacle has cables.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2016-05-29 10:40 AM, Dave Syer via CnC-List wrote:


Hi All,

Work vs life again, I find myself hoping to pick up some parts for 
Windstar while in Halifax on business this week.   Specifically, 
Raymarine SeatalkNG cables.


Can anyone suggest the most likely stockist?  Many thanks, Dave

Sent from Mail  for 
Windows 10




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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List my experience with interlux

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

Oops.  Sorry guys.  Replied with the digest again.

--
Hi Bettina,

Thanks!  Did you do kiwi grip for the non skid sections and Brightside on the 
rest of your deck and cabin top?

Ryan 

Sent from my iPhone
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 124, Issue 131

[Ryan Doyle via CnC-List]

e no problem in the new temp channel.  Water in st 
> mikes is so clear I could see weeds and bottom. I can see all of rudder easy 
> and it really needs cleaning!  Joe coquina 35 mk 1
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Sat, 28 May 2016 21:53:19 -0400
> From: IRVIN <john.ir...@rogers.com>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller
> Message-ID: <34b63d04-210f-428d-b28f-8f7e94bca...@rogers.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Could need to be re-balanced.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On May 28, 2016, at 5:26 PM, Robin Drew via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
>> wrote:
>> 
>> I have just purchased a C 33 mark 2 with a 2GMF engine. It has a 
>> clamshell-type folding propeller that, once in gear, is causing significant 
>> vibration above idle speed. What could be causing this?
>> 
>> Robin Drew
>> Mobile: +1 514 4632060
>> "The only thing we have to fear is fear itself" - FDR
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20160528/2ebe2118/attachment-0001.html>
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 7
> Date: Sun, 29 May 2016 04:32:41 -0400
> From: "S Thomas" <sthom...@bellnet.ca>
> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller
> Message-ID: <9631DCD723B9487E952C55AD93D12BB9@mordor>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> The obvious question in this case with a folding prop, is do all the blades 
> open all the way?
> Once it is in the water it is hard to tell unless you can dive on it. 
> I bought a used 2 blade prop recently that is geared so that the halves are 
> supposed to open evenly. The pins are so worn in the prop body that the gear 
> teeth can jump one another and it gets stuck so that one blade does not open 
> all the way. In my case the prop needs to be re-built. 
> The short answer is that anything that causes one blade to stick will cause 
> the problem you describe. 
> There are other possibilities, but that is the easiest to check. 
> 
> Steve Thomas
> C MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON  
>  - Original Message - 
>  From: Robin Drew via CnC-List 
>  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>  Cc: Robin Drew 
>  Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2016 17:26
>  Subject: Stus-List Propeller
> 
> 
>  I have just purchased a C 33 mark 2 with a 2GMF engine. It has a 
> clamshell-type folding propeller that, once in gear, is causing significant 
> vibration above idle speed. What could be causing this?
> 
>  Robin Drew
>  Mobile: +1 514 4632060
> 
>  "The only thing we have to fear is fear itself" - FDR
> 
> 
> --
> 
> 
>  ___
> 
>  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> -- next part --
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> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20160529/e7c85107/attachment-0001.html>
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 8
> Date: Sun, 29 May 2016 09:40:48 -0400
> From: Dave Syer <syerd...@gmail.com>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Stus-List Raymarine in Halifax?
> Message-ID: <574af160.630a6b0a.c0fb8.9...@mx.google.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hi All,
> Work vs life again, I find myself hoping to pick up some parts for Windstar 
> while in Halifax on business this week.   Specifically, Raymarine SeatalkNG 
> cables.
> Can anyone suggest the most likely stockist?  Many thanks, Dave
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
> 
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20160529/30ee901c/attachment.html>
> 
> --
> 
> Subject: Digest Footer
> 
> ___
> CnC-List mailing list
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> --
> 
> End of CnC-List Digest, Vol 124, Issue 131
> **

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Stus-List Raymarine in Halifax?

[Dave Syer via CnC-List]

Hi All,
Work vs life again, I find myself hoping to pick up some parts for Windstar 
while in Halifax on business this week.   Specifically, Raymarine SeatalkNG 
cables.
Can anyone suggest the most likely stockist?  Many thanks, Dave



Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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Re: Stus-List Propeller

[S Thomas via CnC-List]

The obvious question in this case with a folding prop, is do all the blades 
open all the way?
Once it is in the water it is hard to tell unless you can dive on it. 
I bought a used 2 blade prop recently that is geared so that the halves are 
supposed to open evenly. The pins are so worn in the prop body that the gear 
teeth can jump one another and it gets stuck so that one blade does not open 
all the way. In my case the prop needs to be re-built. 
The short answer is that anything that causes one blade to stick will cause the 
problem you describe. 
There are other possibilities, but that is the easiest to check. 

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON  
  - Original Message - 
  From: Robin Drew via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Robin Drew 
  Sent: Saturday, May 28, 2016 17:26
  Subject: Stus-List Propeller


  I have just purchased a C 33 mark 2 with a 2GMF engine. It has a 
clamshell-type folding propeller that, once in gear, is causing significant 
vibration above idle speed. What could be causing this?

  Robin Drew
  Mobile: +1 514 4632060

  "The only thing we have to fear is fear itself" - FDR


--


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