Re: Stus-List Northern Light 2016

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

Chris, the video is awesome! Thank you for sharing...the boat looks pretty darn 
good too!
 

 


Richard
S/C Bushmark4, C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Christian Tirtirau via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Christian Tirtirau 
Sent: Sat, Nov 12, 2016 6:51 pm
Subject: Stus-List Northern Light 2016


For those tired and depressed after the US elections, here’s a little 
compilation of Northern Light’s cruise in Nova Scotia this past summer.
Hope you enjoy!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rdLvouJqUtQ


Chris
C 37 Northern Light

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Re: Stus-List Standing Rigging Rust

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

As you mentioned the tools used to cut and crimp the terminals are usually
carbon steel.  During the tooling process some of those iron ions transfer
to the tooled item and subsequently rust.  If the rig was just replaced I
would say that it is most likely that.  Most chandleries sell bronze wool
which will clean this "rust" right up.  The bronze is softer than the
stainless so it won't scratch and it won't leave more iron ions to rust in
the future.   If you're still concerned you can use a high power magnifying
glass to examine for pitting or cracks in the metal where the rust was.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Nov 12, 2016 10:58 PM, "Mark McMenamy via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hello All,

Less than a year ago I had the standing rigging replaced on our C 25.
Recently I noticed some rust on the turnbuckles.  Also, there is rust on
the lines that runs in a spiral pattern all the way up.  I called our local
rigger and he offered to take a look, but be's been so busy that I'm still
waiting.  From what I understand the dyes in the steel can cause this which
is no big deal, or it could be a bad batch of steel.   Has anyone ever come
across this?  I wonder how to tell the difference.  Any thoughts or
opinions are appreciated.  I had the rigging replaced at a yard near where
we bought the boat which is 150 miles away so we could sail it home which
makes things more complicated.

Thanks as always,

Mark McMenamy
Ft Pierce FL
C 25 "Icicle"
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Stus-List Standing Rigging Rust

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Hello All,

Less than a year ago I had the standing rigging replaced on our C 25.  
Recently I noticed some rust on the turnbuckles.  Also, there is rust on the 
lines that runs in a spiral pattern all the way up.  I called our local rigger 
and he offered to take a look, but be's been so busy that I'm still waiting.  
From what I understand the dyes in the steel can cause this which is no big 
deal, or it could be a bad batch of steel.   Has anyone ever come across this?  
I wonder how to tell the difference.  Any thoughts or opinions are appreciated. 
 I had the rigging replaced at a yard near where we bought the boat which is 
150 miles away so we could sail it home which makes things more complicated.

Thanks as always,

Mark McMenamy
Ft Pierce FL
C 25 "Icicle"
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Re: Stus-List Switching to rope halyards

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I'm guessing your halyard wrap had little to do with wire vs rope halyard.
My intuition says wire halyards are less prone to wrap.  Like Josh said,
determine why first.  Harken recommends a minimum of 7-10 degrees
divergence between the halyard and forestay.  If your halyard parallels the
forestay and/or it doesn't have enough tension, it has the potential to
wrap.  If your furler is a Harken, you might consider a halyard restrainer
to achieve the angle of divergence to prevent wrap.

No problem with you switching to all rope.  That's a good way to go.  Just
make sure you've solved the wrap issue or your rope halyard will also wrap.

Dennis C.

On Sat, Nov 12, 2016 at 6:15 PM, Derek McLeod via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> Anyone have experience going from wire/rope halyards to all rope? One of
> my two wire genoa halyards got twisted around the furler this spring
> prompting me to want to replace them.
>
> I gather I have to investigate the mast sheaves to see if they are
> appropriate for the job. On the cabin top I have 2 double Lewmar clutches
> on each side. The only marking I could find on them is 9.5-12, which I
> assume is the line size range in mm. From what I have read, if I use a
> smaller dyneema line, it can be bulked up in the clutch area. Any other
> tips or considerations?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Derek McLeod
>
> Aileron, 1983 C 29-2
> Toronto
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Switching to rope halyards

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I switched to all rope halyards and haven't looked back.

Your sheeves at the top are probably 'V' shaped and can box the rope
halyard.  That is the least of your concerns.  There is a chance that they
are chewed up from years of service with a wire rope.  Zepherworks.com is
the place to go for new ones.

Additional if you had a wrap on the furler you need to find out why.  Wraps
usually only happen because the halyard is leading to the furler swivel at
too shallow of an angle.  The halyard may have been removed and re-fed
incorrectly.  It is also possible to have a headsail that isn't hoisted all
the way or has a short luff.   Even sails with too short of a luff can be
flown as long as they have a tack line added to allow full hoist.
Otherwise the halyard angle becomes too shallow.

Occasionally I'll have a brain fart and not pull the spinnaker halyard back
to the mast when I'm trying to furl.  The spin halyard gets wrapped quick!

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Nov 12, 2016 7:16 PM, "Derek McLeod via CnC-List" 
wrote:

Hi,

Anyone have experience going from wire/rope halyards to all rope? One of my
two wire genoa halyards got twisted around the furler this spring prompting
me to want to replace them.

I gather I have to investigate the mast sheaves to see if they are
appropriate for the job. On the cabin top I have 2 double Lewmar clutches
on each side. The only marking I could find on them is 9.5-12, which I
assume is the line size range in mm. From what I have read, if I use a
smaller dyneema line, it can be bulked up in the clutch area. Any other
tips or considerations?

Thanks,

Derek McLeod

Aileron, 1983 C 29-2
Toronto
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Stus-List Switching to rope halyards

[Derek McLeod via CnC-List]

Hi,

Anyone have experience going from wire/rope halyards to all rope? One of my two 
wire genoa halyards got twisted around the furler this spring prompting me to 
want to replace them. 

I gather I have to investigate the mast sheaves to see if they are appropriate 
for the job. On the cabin top I have 2 double Lewmar clutches on each side. The 
only marking I could find on them is 9.5-12, which I assume is the line size 
range in mm. From what I have read, if I use a smaller dyneema line, it can be 
bulked up in the clutch area. Any other tips or considerations?

Thanks,

Derek McLeod 

Aileron, 1983 C 29-2
Toronto
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Stus-List Northern Light 2016

[Christian Tirtirau via CnC-List]

For those tired and depressed after the US elections, here’s a little 
compilation of Northern Light’s cruise in Nova Scotia this past summer.
Hope you enjoy!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rdLvouJqUtQ 


Chris
C 37 Northern Light___

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Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail replacement?)

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Hi Violeta,

There’s a gentleman on the list by the name of Martin DeYoung who owns a C 
43. He has been working deck work on his boat and may be an informative source 
as regards your model. He hasn’t posted in some time but perhaps he may respond.

Perhaps if you could identify the type of toerail that your boat has it would 
help. You may find that many listers here have some experience. FWIW, a good 
surveyor should be able to tell you what you are up against. I have done a  
complete deck lift and rebed on a Islander 37 with a teak toerail and one of my 
good friends has replaced the teak toerail with an aluminum toerail on his Cal 
40. Non-trivial efforts in both cases.

Good luck with your task.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Nov 12, 2016, 
> at 2:19 PM, Violeta Ivanova via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Greetings all. 
> 
> Might someone here help with questions about the custom C 43' from 1973? 
> This was a limited edition and I think only fourteen boats were ever built. 
> We would like to replace the toe rail on our boat, but are unsure how that 
> might affect the hull/deck joint. 
> 
> Some specific questions:
> 
> 1 - What is the structure of the hull/deck joint on the 1973 C 43'? 
> 2 - How is the toe rail integrated with the hull/deck joint?
> 3 - What happens if we remove the toe rail (or part of it)? 
> 
> Good advice will be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Violeta
> 
> 
> 
>   
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Battery charger

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

On Saturday, November 12, 2016, Mitchell's via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Edd, Change your dilithium crystals!
> But seriously, lots of good advice, I would also consider a good quality
> multi meter that you can trust for accurate voltage. I have an Ideal
> digital multi meter that also measures AC & DC amps that you clamp on a
> single wire. It wasn't expensive and I use it everywhere. I guess I don't
> trust all the gadgets we have on board and some of the old equipment is non
> digital. You can use it for continuity and other diagnostics. Nigel
> Calder's book on marine electrical is worth a look if you don't have it. He
> simplifies it, my favourite tool is a hammer and vice grips run a close
> second!
> Len
> 89 37+ Crazy Legs
> Midland On.
>
> Sent from my mobile device.
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List 29-2 outhaul

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

So you have the same single-wire to single-rope system as we have on our
35. You could put a block system inside the boom to make it easier,
although harder to clean and maintain, put a small block on the outhaul
shackle at the clew and double the purchase, or do like I did and run the
outhaul line back to a winch. Adjusting it by hand is pretty useless.
I don't find it difficult to clean the in-boom stuff, I just tape a
messenger line to the end of the outhaul line going into the boom, and drag
the whole works out the aft end of the boom. Use the messenger to rerun it
once it's clean.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 11 November 2016 at 21:20, Jim Watts  wrote:

> Bev, it's difficult to recommend an upgrade when we don't know what you
> have now. I had the same boat as you, but I have no idea what your outhaul
> system is. Some photos and a description would be very helpful.
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
> On 10 November 2016 at 13:38, Bev Parslow via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> This is the time of the year when everything comes off and gets a good
>> wash. I have found the outhaul to be a real pain. It is hard to adjust and
>> also take apart for cleaning. Is there a better way of performing the same
>> function?
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
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Stus-List 1973 custom C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail replacement?)

[Violeta Ivanova via CnC-List]

Greetings all.

Might someone here help with questions about the custom C 43' from 1973?
This was a limited edition and I think only fourteen boats were ever built.
We would like to replace the toe rail on our boat, but are unsure how that
might affect the hull/deck joint.

Some specific questions:

1 - What is the structure of the hull/deck joint on the 1973 C 43'?
2 - How is the toe rail integrated with the hull/deck joint?
3 - What happens if we remove the toe rail (or part of it)?

Good advice will be appreciated.

Thanks,

Violeta
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Stus-List Battery charger

[Mitchell's via CnC-List]

Edd, Change your dilithium crystals! 
But seriously, lots of good advice, I would also consider a good quality multi 
meter that you can trust for accurate voltage. I have an Ideal digital multi 
meter that also measures AC & DC amps that you clamp on a single wire. It 
wasn't expensive and I use it everywhere. I guess I don't trust all the gadgets 
we have on board and some of the old equipment is non digital. You can use it 
for continuity and other diagnostics. Nigel Calder's book on marine electrical 
is worth a look if you don't have it. He simplifies it, my favourite tool is a 
hammer and vice grips run a close second!
Len
89 37+ Crazy Legs 
Midland On. 

Sent from my mobile device. 

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Re: Stus-List Propeller

[RANDY via CnC-List]

So, looking from astern, the shaft rotates clockwise for a RH prop, then. 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Neil Gallagher via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Neil Gallagher"  
Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2016 10:05:01 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller 

Ronald, 

You are correct: fingers curl in rotation direction, thumb points in direction 
of advance. Right hand for right-handed. 

Neil Gallagher 
Weatherly, 35-1 
Glen Cove, NY 

On 11/12/2016 11:43 AM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List wrote: 



How does one interpret "right handed"? Looking from the stern, is the prop 
turning clockwise or counter? 
Does one use the old physics notation: if your fingers of the right hand curl 
in the direction of rotation, then the thumb points in the direction of 
movement? 
Ron 
Wild Cheri 
C 30-1 
STL 




From: Larry via CnC-List  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Larry  
Sent: Friday, November 11, 2016 7:17 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller 

Manufacture date 6/95 
Michigan Propeller/Federal Prop 
Type: Sailer -(possibly the Michigan Sailer 2-Blade) Now they produce 
Sailer 2 and Sailer 3 
12 inch dia, 7 pitch sounds about right 



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___ 

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated! 

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Re: Stus-List Propeller

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Ronald,

You are correct: fingers curl in rotation direction, thumb points in 
direction of advance.  Right hand for right-handed.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 11/12/2016 11:43 AM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List wrote:
How does one interpret "right handed"?  Looking from the stern, is the 
prop turning clockwise or counter?
Does one use the old physics notation:  if your fingers of the right 
hand curl in the direction of rotation, then the thumb points in the 
direction of movement?

Ron
Wild Cheri
C 30-1
STL




*From:* Larry via CnC-List 
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Larry 
*Sent:* Friday, November 11, 2016 7:17 PM
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Propeller

Manufacture date 6/95
Michigan Propeller/Federal Prop
Type: Sailer -(possibly the Michigan Sailer 2-Blade) Now they 
produce Sailer 2 and Sailer 3

12 inch dia, 7 pitch sounds about right



___

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Re: Stus-List Propeller

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

How does one interpret "right handed"?  Looking from the stern, is the prop 
turning clockwise or counter?Does one use the old physics notation:  if your 
fingers of the right hand curl in the direction of rotation, then the thumb 
points in the direction of movement?RonWild CheriC 30-1STL


  From: Larry via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Larry 
 Sent: Friday, November 11, 2016 7:17 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller
   
#yiv1737996458 #yiv1737996458 -- _filtered #yiv1737996458 
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Manufacture date 6/95Michigan Propeller/Federal PropType: Sailer -(possibly 
the Michigan Sailer 2-Blade)  Now they produce Sailer 2 and Sailer 312 inch 
dia, 7 pitch sounds about right  
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Stus-List Rebuilding 30-1 Mast Step Support (was I've listed my 1976 C 30mki for sale)

[RANDY via CnC-List]

Resending with more appropriate subject line. 

- Original Message -

From: "RANDY via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "RANDY" , "Ryan Doyle"  
Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2016 9:30:55 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List I've listed my 1976 C 30mki for sale 

Hi Ryan (and Andrew R. White, if you're still on the list), 

I'll take you up on your offer to answer questions about getting a pump in that 
deep forward bilge sump. 

If I'm reading correctly, you didn't rebuild your mast step? That is one of the 
offseason projects I'll be tackling this winter, basically following the 
prescriptions of 
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/maststep/maststep.htm, including 
re-doing all the bilge pump plumbing. 

I've put pictures of my current mast step support situation at 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTSzRLbFo0NDl6U1E . When I put all 
my weight on the aft mast step support I can see it deflect downward a quarter 
inch or so. The PO created a custom big wooden wedge to cram down into that 
forward sump, which I don't like for two reasons: 1) it transfers the 
compressive load onto the keel and I worry about that force separating the keel 
joint; and 2) it prevents putting a pump in there and keeping that space dry. 

Once I rebuild the supports and get that wedge out of there, I'm pretty sure my 
boat's current Rule pump (or a replacement for it) will fit in there. 

So I guess my first questions are: 

1. How many mast step supports are these early 30-1s supposed to have? (I have 
hull #7, built September 1972) As you can see, mine only has two. But the 
above-linked DIY story by Andrew R. White shows three. 

2. Would there be any harm in cutting out the thin fiberglass ends of that 
"well" formed by the mast step supports? You can see them in the pictures of my 
boat on the aft side of the forward mast step support and on the forward side 
of the aft mast step support. But there are none in the picture in the 
above-linked DIY story. 

3. So, what exactly did you do to get a pump into that forward bilge sump? 
Assuming I make new mast step supports out of fiberglass board like Andrew R. 
White did, I'll leave a gap or drill a big hole at the bottom of them, so water 
and bilge pump hoses can run into that forward sump where a pump will be. 

Thanks in Advance, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C 30-1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 

- Original Message -

From: "Ryan Doyle via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Ryan Doyle"  
Sent: Thursday, September 1, 2016 11:12:43 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List I've listed my 1976 C 30mki for sale 

Thanks Randy. Sounds like you have a really nice old 30. If you ever have 
questions about the bilge pump situation and what I did (especially about 
getting a pump in that forward bilge), wiring, keel joint seal, etc. etc. I'd 
be more than happy to tell you what I did and how I did it. 




Message: 1 
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2016 16:47:16 + (UTC) 
From: RANDY < randy.staff...@comcast.net > 
To: cnc-list < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
Cc: Ryan Doyle < ryanpdo...@gmail.com > 
Subject: Re: Stus-List I've listed my 1976 C 30mki for sale 
Message-ID: 
< 624205602.17534848.1472748436282.javamail.zim...@comcast.net > 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" 

Hi Ryan, 

That's a very impressive list of projects, and a good-looking boat. As a data 
point, when I bought my 1972 30-1 hull #7 in January, I looked at comparables I 
could find online at the time - five of them from 1972 to 1976 - and the 
average price was $13,650 (range $9,500-$17,650). 

I paid nearly twice what you're asking, for a 30-1 with spinnaker and good 38' 
triple-axle trailer, and recent projects done by the PO included: new 
batteries, solar panel, and charge controller; all through-hulls rebedded; new 
bottom paint; all winches rebuilt and backing plates installed; new head and 
holding tank; new head countertop; all cushions recovered; all windows 
re-sealed; and a new traveler. 

This year I installed a spare tire / carrier wheel on the trailer, refinished 
the boot stripe, buffed and waxed the topsides, painted the bottom, added 
curtains and throw rugs inside, replaced some running rigging, replaced the 
headfoil, installed a vang, added a masthead SailTimer wind instrument, and 
re-did the bunks and guides on the trailer. 

But in the future I will be doing a lot of the projects you've already done: 
rebedding the chainplates; rebuilding the mast step support and overhauling the 
bilge pump system; re-doing fuel tank straps and vent and wiring; refinishing 
the topsides; servicing the A4; rewiring; replacing compasses; resealing the 
keel joint; etc. 

For the difference between what I paid for my boat and what you're asking for 
yours, somebody could probably restore the interior of yours to the original 
layout, and they'd have a hell 

Re: Stus-List Propeller

[RANDY via CnC-List]

Thank you Rob. 

The primary use of my boat is club racing on a relatively small lake. Generally 
I only motor ten minutes to get out of the marina, and ten minutes to get back 
in, a couple times a week. No cruising, no punching through chop. For me right 
now the most important thing is making the boat as fast as possible - 
minimizing weight, minimizing drag, maximizing (sail) power, etc. My 
competitors in my PHRF fleet all have folding props, so I need to level that 
playing field :) 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Robert Gallagher via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Robert Gallagher"  
Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2016 8:41:06 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller 

JMHO 

The best all around prop for the 30MI with an A-4. 

http://www.atomic4.com/propeller.html 

If you are a hard core racer, this might not be the prop for you. Otherwise, 
this will yield easier docking, more punch through a chop, higher RPM (good for 
the engine in many ways), higher causing speed, all while still providing 
reduced drag under sail. 

Sorry if that sounds like a sales pitch but I was so impressed by that little 
prop that I talk it up every chance I get. 

Just be very careful about using it without a zinc. They tell you that if you 
go zinc less there will be no barnacle growth on the prop. If you end up in a 
'hot' marina the prop will act as your zinc...they replaced my prop but now 
they have more detailed warranty with regards to this. 

Good Luck, 

Rob 
88 30MKIII 
Hamunam 

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Re: Stus-List I've listed my 1976 C 30mki for sale

[RANDY via CnC-List]

Hi Ryan (and Andrew R. White, if you're still on the list), 

I'll take you up on your offer to answer questions about getting a pump in that 
deep forward bilge sump. 

If I'm reading correctly, you didn't rebuild your mast step? That is one of the 
offseason projects I'll be tackling this winter, basically following the 
prescriptions of 
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/maststep/maststep.htm, including 
re-doing all the bilge pump plumbing. 

I've put pictures of my current mast step support situation at 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTSzRLbFo0NDl6U1E . When I put all 
my weight on the aft mast step support I can see it deflect downward a quarter 
inch or so. The PO created a custom big wooden wedge to cram down into that 
forward sump, which I don't like for two reasons: 1) it transfers the 
compressive load onto the keel and I worry about that force separating the keel 
joint; and 2) it prevents putting a pump in there and keeping that space dry. 

Once I rebuild the supports and get that wedge out of there, I'm pretty sure my 
boat's current Rule pump (or a replacement for it) will fit in there. 

So I guess my first questions are: 

1. How many mast step supports are these early 30-1s supposed to have? (I have 
hull #7, built September 1972) As you can see, mine only has two. But the 
above-linked DIY story by Andrew R. White shows three. 

2. Would there be any harm in cutting out the thin fiberglass ends of that 
"well" formed by the mast step supports? You can see them in the pictures of my 
boat on the aft side of the forward mast step support and on the forward side 
of the aft mast step support. But there are none in the picture in the 
above-linked DIY story. 

3. So, what exactly did you do to get a pump into that forward bilge sump? 
Assuming I make new mast step supports out of fiberglass board like Andrew R. 
White did, I'll leave a gap or drill a big hole at the bottom of them, so water 
and bilge pump hoses can run into that forward sump where a pump will be. 

Thanks in Advance, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C 30-1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 

- Original Message -

From: "Ryan Doyle via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Ryan Doyle"  
Sent: Thursday, September 1, 2016 11:12:43 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List I've listed my 1976 C 30mki for sale 

Thanks Randy. Sounds like you have a really nice old 30. If you ever have 
questions about the bilge pump situation and what I did (especially about 
getting a pump in that forward bilge), wiring, keel joint seal, etc. etc. I'd 
be more than happy to tell you what I did and how I did it. 




Message: 1 
Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2016 16:47:16 + (UTC) 
From: RANDY < randy.staff...@comcast.net > 
To: cnc-list < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
Cc: Ryan Doyle < ryanpdo...@gmail.com > 
Subject: Re: Stus-List I've listed my 1976 C 30mki for sale 
Message-ID: 
< 624205602.17534848.1472748436282.javamail.zim...@comcast.net > 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" 

Hi Ryan, 

That's a very impressive list of projects, and a good-looking boat. As a data 
point, when I bought my 1972 30-1 hull #7 in January, I looked at comparables I 
could find online at the time - five of them from 1972 to 1976 - and the 
average price was $13,650 (range $9,500-$17,650). 

I paid nearly twice what you're asking, for a 30-1 with spinnaker and good 38' 
triple-axle trailer, and recent projects done by the PO included: new 
batteries, solar panel, and charge controller; all through-hulls rebedded; new 
bottom paint; all winches rebuilt and backing plates installed; new head and 
holding tank; new head countertop; all cushions recovered; all windows 
re-sealed; and a new traveler. 

This year I installed a spare tire / carrier wheel on the trailer, refinished 
the boot stripe, buffed and waxed the topsides, painted the bottom, added 
curtains and throw rugs inside, replaced some running rigging, replaced the 
headfoil, installed a vang, added a masthead SailTimer wind instrument, and 
re-did the bunks and guides on the trailer. 

But in the future I will be doing a lot of the projects you've already done: 
rebedding the chainplates; rebuilding the mast step support and overhauling the 
bilge pump system; re-doing fuel tank straps and vent and wiring; refinishing 
the topsides; servicing the A4; rewiring; replacing compasses; resealing the 
keel joint; etc. 

For the difference between what I paid for my boat and what you're asking for 
yours, somebody could probably restore the interior of yours to the original 
layout, and they'd have a hell of a nice 30-1 with all the improvements you've 
made, and the instrumentation you've added, etc. I really like the tiller 
steering and boom-end sheeting to traveler on transom (which it looks like you 
have) - my boat is set up the same way, and it makes for a very roomy cockpit. 
It's also nice to have a pushpit gate (I don't), and your dodger and 

Re: Stus-List Propeller

[Robert Gallagher via CnC-List]

JMHO

The best all around prop for the 30MI with an A-4.

http://www.atomic4.com/propeller.html

If you are a hard core racer, this might not be the prop for you.
Otherwise, this will yield easier docking, more punch through a chop,
higher RPM (good for the engine in many ways), higher causing speed, all
while still providing reduced drag under sail.

Sorry if that sounds like a sales pitch but I was so impressed by that
little prop that I talk it up every chance I get.

Just be very careful about using it without a zinc.  They tell you that if
you go zinc less there will be no barnacle growth on the prop.  If you end
up in a 'hot' marina the prop will act as your zinc...they replaced my prop
but now they have more detailed warranty with regards to this.

Good Luck,

Rob
88 30MKIII
Hamunam
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List Propeller

[RANDY via CnC-List]

Thanks all. Sounds like maybe I have a good propeller. Still, I'm going to 
replace it with a folding prop :) 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Jerome Tauber via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Jerome Tauber"  
Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2016 7:51:46 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Propeller 

It s a Michigan Wheel Federal Line propeller. See below. Jerry 

The Federal propeller line concentrates on the application specific custom 
design and manufacturing efforts. Federal features propellers ranging 12” to 
96” in diameters. Michigan Wheel is a propeller supplier to custom yacht 
manufacturers, production boat builders, and commercial shipyards around the 
world. For those that seek to optimize performance and efficiency, Michigan 
Wheel is challenged with expanding propeller design and analysis capabilities. 
Optimized propeller fit does result in increased speeds, improved cruising 
range and exceptional passenger comfort levels. 
High end motor yachts, high speed sportfish boats, and military craft are 
challenging applications, and require sophisticated propulsion to optimize 
performance to design intent. 
The Federal propeller line is often the solution to maximize performance. 
Michigan Wheel engineers work directly with builder engineers and consulting 
companies, applying ever evolving, sophisticated propeller design codes to 
applications. 




-Original Message- 
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List  


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Stus-List Ancient Black Sea Shipwrecks

[RANDY via CnC-List]

Just sharing this interesting story from a newspaper yesterday: 
http://www.nytimes.com/2016/11/12/science/shipwrecks-black-sea-archaeology.html?smid=fb-share
 

Cheers, 
Randy 
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Re: Stus-List Propeller

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Its a Michigan Wheel Federal Line propeller.   See below.  Jerry


The Federal propeller line concentrates on the application specific custom 
design and manufacturing efforts. Federal features propellers ranging 12” to 
96” in diameters. Michigan Wheel is a propeller supplier to custom yacht 
manufacturers, production boat builders, and commercial shipyards around the 
world. For those that seek to optimize performance and efficiency, Michigan 
Wheel is challenged with expanding propeller design and analysis capabilities. 
Optimized propeller fit does result in increased speeds, improved cruising 
range and exceptional passenger comfort levels.


High end motor yachts, high speed sportfish boats, and military craft are 
challenging applications, and require sophisticated propulsion to optimize 
performance to design intent. 

The Federal propeller line is often the solution to maximize performance. 
Michigan Wheel engineers work directly with builder engineers and consulting 
companies, applying ever evolving, sophisticated propeller design codes to 
applications. 


 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 


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Re: Stus-List Propeller

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I could be wrong but I'm guessing it's a Michigan Wheel Sailer.  The 6 95
could be the manufacture date.

Scroll down here:
https://www.miwheel.com/propellers/brands/michigan-propellers/

Dennis C.

On Fri, Nov 11, 2016 at 6:33 PM, RANDY via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Still planning on getting a folding prop for next year.  On advice from
> Dennis C. I've looked on eBay a bit.
>
> Today I noticed markings (engravings) on my current fixed two-blade
> propeller that say the following:
> 6 95
> MI/FED
> SAILER [sic]
> 12 RH 7
>
> I interpret those last engravings to mean 12" diameter, right-handed, 7
> pitch.  But does anyone know what the "6 95" and "MI/FED" markings mean?
>
> Thanks,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
> --
> *From: *"RANDY via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"cnc-list" 
> *Cc: *"RANDY" , "Bradley Lumgair" <
> lumg...@hotmail.com>
> *Sent: *Monday, June 6, 2016 7:58:00 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Propeller
>
> Hi Bradley, I took a quick look on the cncphotoalbum website and didn't
> see those charts under the technical info pages.  If you happen to have the
> propeller specs for a C 30 Mark I with an Atomic-4 engine, I would be
> interested to see those.  Right now I've got a fixed 2-blade.  For next
> year I'd like to look into a folding prop, so I'd like to know the original
> specs.  Thanks in advance.
>
> Best Regards,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
> --
> *From: *"Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"cnc-list" 
> *Cc: *"Bradley Lumgair" 
> *Sent: *Monday, June 6, 2016 5:42:29 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Propeller
>
> I have some C charts on my iPad that show the original prop for several
> of the models, original engine models, and prop sizes. 16 X 10 is the ONLY
> size listed for the 33-2 in either fixed or folding. When I figure out how
> to load it I will post here. It may have come from the CnC photo album, I
> just can't remember.
>
> I'd rather be sailing
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Battery Charger / ACR -- Some Details

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Rick,

Thanks. You and Josh have been incredibly helpful on this -- I tried to save a 
few bucks and now I'm probably doing more harm than good. 


All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.332.4400  | Office
914.774.9767  | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 7
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize

On Nov 11, 2016, at 11:50 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
wrote:

Edd;
 
From earlier posts I have the impression that you have a 12v flooded house bank 
of around 500 AH, plus a single gel cell 12v battery of 100 or less, I seem to 
recall from an old discussion that you were planning to install a bank of 6v 
golf cart batteries for the house bank – though my recollection may be wrong.
 
You have a Blue Sea SI or Battery Link ACR connecting the house and start 
batteries.
 
For starters, the Pro Mariner 43006 charger is a single bank charger delivering 
a maximum of 6 amps. Per the Pro Mariner catalog is designed for a SINGLE BCI 
24 through 31 series 12v battery. Which means a battery with between 50 and 
100-120AH. And if you do have a house bank of golf cart batteries, Pro Mariner 
specifically says the 6 amp charger is not suitable and recommends another 
charger model for GC, 4D and 8D batteries.
 
The rule of thumb explained to me by a tech at Pro Mariner (I have a ProNautic 
50A charger on my 38 based on their recommendation for my 460AH house and 115AH 
start banks – all flooded batteries) is to have charger amperage at least 10% 
of the bank AH rating. So you need a larger charger, probably in the 50A range. 
Among other things, if your house bank is 500AH and is depleted to 50% 
(somewhere around 11.5v) the 6a charger would take a minimum of 42 hours to 
recharge the house bank.
 
The charge profile shown for the charger shows that after system checks 
(probably initial voltage, continuity, and resistance) it starts at battery 
voltage and goes to 14.6v for absorption charging. It almost certainly ramps up 
the charge voltage in response to what it calculates as the internal resistance 
of the battery (remember it is designed for only 1 battery of relatively 
limited size). During absorption charging the voltage is constant and current 
falls as the internal resistance of the battery increases. When the current 
flow reaches a certain point, the charger reverts to a 13.4v float charge and 
periodically bumps up to 14.6 to measure state of charge, and then drips back 
to 13.4 to trickle charge the battery.
 
Now your large house bank will absorb a lot of current before the internal 
resistance rises appreciably; which the charger is possibly interpreting as a 
low state of charge. So it ramps up the voltage to increase charge current. 
There is an overvoltage cutout at 16.0V, so it would not go over that level. 
And I wouldn’t think it would go over 14.6 unless there is a glitch in the 
control software. But I would suggest calling the techs at Pro Mariner to see 
what they have to say.
 
Another potential cause – though it seems sort of a long shot - might be your 
mix of flooded house and gel start batteries. They have different charge 
profiles, and the gel battery absorption charge and float charge are done at 
different voltages than the flooded batteries (14.1 and 13.8 respectively). Is 
it possible that after the ACR closes the charger sense less internal 
resistance, interprets this as lower state of charge, and ramps up the voltage 
to produce higher charge current? Which since it is limited to only 6A does not 
change, and the charger continues to ramp up the voltage until it gets to the 
16v overcharge voltage limit? Again a question  for the techs at Pro Mariner.
 
I suspect your short term solution will end up being to shut off the ACR when 
charging the house bank (after all, your start battery should never get below 
about 90-95% charge – call it 12.5v). Longer term you might think about an 
appropriately sized two bank charger. Or you might want to replace your ACR 
with an Echo Charger (which would only close when the house bank was charging 
and the start bank was significantly discharged).
 
 
Rick Brass
Imzadi  C 38 mk 2
la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1
Washington, NC
 
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd Schillay 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, November 11, 2016 5:20 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edd Schillay 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery Charger / ACR -- Some Details
 
It’s one of these: http://www.promariner.com/en/43006 
 
   

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Re: Stus-List Battery Charger / ACR -- Some Details

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Doug,
 If the battery charger has an Equalization Phase, then the charge
voltage will be between 15-16 volts.  This is something that should be done
rarely (once every few months to once a year).  Perhaps the the charger is
defective, or possibly it gets confused if the charger is shut off before
the equalization phase is complete and returns to that phase when
restarted.  I think it is more likely that the charger is defective.

See:
http://shop.pkys.com/Battery-Equalization_ep_44.html

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Fri, Nov 11, 2016 at 11:06 PM, Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> To the best of my knowledge a 12v battery charger should not go over 14.6
> or so. If it is goig to 15 to 16 volts I would be getting a new charger. A
> friend had this happen with a mastervolt unit and fried his house bank of 2
> T105 6v.
>
> Doug Mountjoy
> SvPegasus
> LF38 #4
> On Friday, November 11, 2016, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> The only single bank ProSport systems are 6amps.  That is pretty small
>> compared to the total capacity of your bank.  ~1%.  I can't explain it but
>> maybe that's part of the problem.  Sometimes certain switching power
>> supplys need a load for them to work properly.  A large enough bank and a
>> small enough charger may act the same way.
>>
>> Did you wire it directly to the battery terminals?  Or did you go to a
>> nearby bus bar or previous feeder wire?
>>
>> I would also like to know what a Multimeter reads at the charger
>> terminals and what the meter reads at the battery terminals (if they aren't
>> the same).  I'm wondering if maybe the charger isn't sensing the same
>> voltage as the boat's meter and the battery.
>>
>> Josh
>>
>> On Nov 11, 2016 5:20 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> It’s one of these: http://www.promariner.com/en/43006
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Nov 11, 2016, at 5:17 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Is it a two bank charger?  If so, are both charging circuits connected
>>> to the batteries; one to the house bank and one to the start battery?  If
>>> so, disconnect the one to the start battery and see how that works.  Let
>>> the ACR charger the start bank.
>>>
>>> I think some chargers don't like to be wired to two banks when there's
>>> an ACR or echo charger between the banks.
>>>
>>> Dennis C.
>>>
>>> On Fri, Nov 11, 2016 at 3:19 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 OK — So here’s what happens. And this may be OK, but somehow it feels
 like it’s not — please let me know.

 I plug into shore power and turn on the battery charger. It’s a
 ProSport and it’s hooked up to the House Bank, a set of flooded batteries.
 Within a few moments, the voltage goes over 13 volts and the ACR kicks in,
 linking the house bank to the starting battery, a sealed starting battery.

 After a few hours, the voltage on both battery banks are reading well
 into 15-16V, which makes me worried and I shut it off.

 I could turn the ACR off when using the charger, but that really, in my
 mind, defeats the purpose.

 Any thoughts?

 All the best,

 Edd


 Edd M. Schillay
 Starship Enterprise
 C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
 City Island, NY
 Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 









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 wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>
> --
> Doug Mountjoy
> sv Pegasus
> LF38
> just west of Ballard, WA
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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