Re: Stus-List spinnaker pole repair and refurb

[Dave via CnC-List]

Had  a brainwave today and picked up a large exhaust pipe expander from 
princess auto today (a Canadian version of Harbour Freight)
Worked very well indeed to press the dent out from the inside, and 
coincidentally straighten the bend - no doubt it is not at its original 
strength, but overall not bad at all!  

Dave 




Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2016 11:13:31 -0600
From: "Dennis C." 
To: CnClist 
Subject: Re: Stus-List spinnaker pole repair and refurb
Message-ID:
   
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I'd do that.  Buy a tube and move everything.

With the dent so close to the end, you could cut it off and sell the
remainder on eBay.

Dennis C.

On Tue, Nov 15, 2016 at 8:51 AM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> We bent/dented a spin pole on a C 33 MKII forgot to release the baby
> stay on a jibegot a new length of aluminum tube and used all the
> existing hardwarethe Binnacle did all the work for a few hundred
> $$$.FYI
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> On 2016-11-14 6:58 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote:
> 
> Dave,
> 
> I?d be very wary of any dent fix solution that doesn?t involve a sleeve.
> Even better, simply buy a length of aluminum tube of the same dimensions,
> cut it to length and add all the existing hardware. I don?t have any
> numbers but I have to believe it will be cheaper than having someone try to
> pull the dent out.
> 
> Remember, when that spinnaker is up it will be putting a large amount of
> strain on that pole. Having it fold up at the wrong moment will be un-fun.
> 
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin?s Overdue Refit 
> 
> On Nov 14, 2016, at 5:30 PM, rjcasciato--- via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Dave.call your local Dr. Dent repair...find him in the automotive
> services section of your yellow pages..
> Those guys do this on metal all the time.
> Ron C.
> 
> 
> Sent from XFINITY Connect Mobile App
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> 
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: syerd...@gmail.com
> Sent: 2016-11-14 5:26:16 PM
> Subject: Stus-List spinnaker pole repair and refurb
> 
> Evening all,
> 
> This winter's theme is running rigging, and this includes dealing with the
> spinnaker pole, which is dented, slightly bent, and needs a new shock cord
> bridle.   Per recommendations here, I picked up the shock cord tools last
> weekend in Nova Scotia - that part is easy.  Any suggestions on how to
> with the dent/bend?
> 
> See photos here.

Sent from my iPhone___

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Re: Stus-List Splicing RG58 coax

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Here's a double female.  They call it a SO-239 barrel adapter.

http://testparts-store.com/so-239-female-barrel-adapter-connector-coupler-uhf-7614hn/?utm_medium=googleshopping_source=bc

Josh

On Nov 18, 2016 8:13 PM, "Josh Muckley"  wrote:

The "right" way to splice it is with 2 male PL259 connections on both cut
ends and then a double female to connect them together.

In reality the center conductor carries the signal and the outer is the
shield.  The signal from the antenna really isn't a high frequency signal
requiring a shielded connection with high signal to noise ratio.  I agree
with your bayou brethren, just split out the center conductor and shield.
Solder independently and heat shrink.  It will probably work though it may
not get a gps fix as quick and the signal may not be as strong... Oh well.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Nov 18, 2016 8:03 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> My old Garmin text only GPS quit acquiring satellites.  I tried a spare
> 128 with the same result.  Aha, bad antenna.  I bought a cheap Chinese
> knock off replacement.
>
> When I went to pull the old antenna out, I discovered the cable somehow
> got cut by the steering system.  (I think it was a leprechaun or boat
> gremlin but not sure.)
>
> So, the old antenna is probably still good and I'd like to fix it as a
> spare.  With a new antenna costing only $30, it doesn't pay to invest in
> pricey splice connectors, etc.  My buddies on the bayou and some internet
> research say the RG58 AU cable can be spliced by soldering.
>
> Seems simple enough.
>
>- Peel back the outer covers and shields
>- Strip the insulator to expose the center conductors
>- Solder the center conductors together
>- Build up the insulator with Teflon tape, heat shrink tubing, etc
>- Pull one shield down
>- Pull the other shield over it and solder
>- Finish with heat shrink
>
> Like this only neater:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4vYcYz9pbTE
>
> This is more of a curiosity project than a necessity.  Just chunking the
> old one in the trash is also OK.
>
> Any other ideas?  I see cheap connectors on mouser.com etc but don't see
> a butt splice thingie.  I saw a video using two female connectors and a
> barrel connector.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Splicing RG58 coax

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

That’s true, but the flip side of it is that the GPS signal is pretty weak by 
itself. You don’t want to attenuate it more than you need to. Just to argue 
with myself, most of the time the external antenna is not required - the GPS 
would receive the signal without it, even in the cabin.

Marek

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Pennie 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, November 18, 2016 20:23
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Pennie 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Splicing RG58 coax

Josh said it best.  You'd be amazed at the crap that actually works somehow in 
a ham shack.

John


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Re: Stus-List Splicing RG58 coax

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

This is what I used - and it worked for several years.

Marek
1994 C270 ”Legato”
Ottawa, ON



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, November 18, 2016 20:02
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Splicing RG58 coax

I saw a video using two female connectors and a barrel connector.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Splicing RG58 coax

[John Pennie via CnC-List]

Josh said it best.  You'd be amazed at the crap that actually works somehow in 
a ham shack.

John


Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 18, 2016, at 8:13 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The "right" way to splice it is with 2 male PL259 connections on both cut 
> ends and then a double female to connect them together.
> 
> In reality the center conductor carries the signal and the outer is the 
> shield.  The signal from the antenna really isn't a high frequency signal 
> requiring a shielded connection with high signal to noise ratio.  I agree 
> with your bayou brethren, just split out the center conductor and shield.  
> Solder independently and heat shrink.  It will probably work though it may 
> not get a gps fix as quick and the signal may not be as strong... Oh well.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> 
>> On Nov 18, 2016 8:03 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
>> wrote:
>> My old Garmin text only GPS quit acquiring satellites.  I tried a spare 128 
>> with the same result.  Aha, bad antenna.  I bought a cheap Chinese knock off 
>> replacement.  
>> 
>> When I went to pull the old antenna out, I discovered the cable somehow got 
>> cut by the steering system.  (I think it was a leprechaun or boat gremlin 
>> but not sure.)
>> 
>> So, the old antenna is probably still good and I'd like to fix it as a 
>> spare.  With a new antenna costing only $30, it doesn't pay to invest in 
>> pricey splice connectors, etc.  My buddies on the bayou and some internet 
>> research say the RG58 AU cable can be spliced by soldering.
>> 
>> Seems simple enough.
>> Peel back the outer covers and shields
>> Strip the insulator to expose the center conductors
>> Solder the center conductors together
>> Build up the insulator with Teflon tape, heat shrink tubing, etc
>> Pull one shield down
>> Pull the other shield over it and solder
>> Finish with heat shrink
>> Like this only neater:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4vYcYz9pbTE
>> 
>> This is more of a curiosity project than a necessity.  Just chunking the old 
>> one in the trash is also OK.
>> 
>> Any other ideas?  I see cheap connectors on mouser.com etc but don't see a 
>> butt splice thingie.  I saw a video using two female connectors and a barrel 
>> connector.
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Splicing RG58 coax

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

The "right" way to splice it is with 2 male PL259 connections on both cut
ends and then a double female to connect them together.

In reality the center conductor carries the signal and the outer is the
shield.  The signal from the antenna really isn't a high frequency signal
requiring a shielded connection with high signal to noise ratio.  I agree
with your bayou brethren, just split out the center conductor and shield.
Solder independently and heat shrink.  It will probably work though it may
not get a gps fix as quick and the signal may not be as strong... Oh well.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Nov 18, 2016 8:03 PM, "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> My old Garmin text only GPS quit acquiring satellites.  I tried a spare
> 128 with the same result.  Aha, bad antenna.  I bought a cheap Chinese
> knock off replacement.
>
> When I went to pull the old antenna out, I discovered the cable somehow
> got cut by the steering system.  (I think it was a leprechaun or boat
> gremlin but not sure.)
>
> So, the old antenna is probably still good and I'd like to fix it as a
> spare.  With a new antenna costing only $30, it doesn't pay to invest in
> pricey splice connectors, etc.  My buddies on the bayou and some internet
> research say the RG58 AU cable can be spliced by soldering.
>
> Seems simple enough.
>
>- Peel back the outer covers and shields
>- Strip the insulator to expose the center conductors
>- Solder the center conductors together
>- Build up the insulator with Teflon tape, heat shrink tubing, etc
>- Pull one shield down
>- Pull the other shield over it and solder
>- Finish with heat shrink
>
> Like this only neater:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4vYcYz9pbTE
>
> This is more of a curiosity project than a necessity.  Just chunking the
> old one in the trash is also OK.
>
> Any other ideas?  I see cheap connectors on mouser.com etc but don't see
> a butt splice thingie.  I saw a video using two female connectors and a
> barrel connector.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List Splicing RG58 coax

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

My old Garmin text only GPS quit acquiring satellites.  I tried a spare 128
with the same result.  Aha, bad antenna.  I bought a cheap Chinese knock
off replacement.

When I went to pull the old antenna out, I discovered the cable somehow got
cut by the steering system.  (I think it was a leprechaun or boat gremlin
but not sure.)

So, the old antenna is probably still good and I'd like to fix it as a
spare.  With a new antenna costing only $30, it doesn't pay to invest in
pricey splice connectors, etc.  My buddies on the bayou and some internet
research say the RG58 AU cable can be spliced by soldering.

Seems simple enough.

   - Peel back the outer covers and shields
   - Strip the insulator to expose the center conductors
   - Solder the center conductors together
   - Build up the insulator with Teflon tape, heat shrink tubing, etc
   - Pull one shield down
   - Pull the other shield over it and solder
   - Finish with heat shrink

Like this only neater:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4vYcYz9pbTE

This is more of a curiosity project than a necessity.  Just chunking the
old one in the trash is also OK.

Any other ideas?  I see cheap connectors on mouser.com etc but don't see a
butt splice thingie.  I saw a video using two female connectors and a
barrel connector.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List 1991 C 51 and 1973 C 61

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Didn't the asking price start out at $1.2 mil or something like that? I
remember thinking it was wildly optimistic at the time.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 18 November 2016 at 09:27, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We hit Roche Harbor pretty much every year and I walk the docks to check
> out Koh I Noor every year.  She has been for sale for at least 6 years
> and looks like it has not been used e entire time.  Aside from what you
> used in the pictures on Craig's list she comes with a fine coating of
> mussels and barnacles on the hull.  Sad to see but seriously overpriced
> IMO.
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
>
>
> ---
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2016 14:36:50 -0500
> From: Steve Thomas 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1991 C 51 and 1973 C 61
> Message-ID: <20161117143712.VTKCV.32907.root@toroondcmxzfep01>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> Now that is a nice interior!
>
> Steve Thomas
>
>  Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List  wrote:
> Sweet. I've been drooling at this one too:
>
> http://vancouver.craigslist.ca/nvn/bod/5808262819.html
>
>
> Stus-List 1991 C 51
>
> I like to drool and dream.  Thought you might want to join me.
>
> http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1991/C%26C-51-2940801/
>
> Annapolis---Jabins/MD/United-States#.WCyPGneZNE4
>
> Josh Muckley
>
> S /V Sea Hawk
>
> 1989 C 37+
>
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
>
> --
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List weeping hull

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

Its definitely not the case of “don’t worry about it”.  Do you know if you have 
balsa?  On my 38mk2 from 1977 balsa goes all the way down to the keelbolts 
tabbing.  You need to find that out. Few ways you can do that.  Tapping with a 
mallet on the outside of the hull around the questionable  area could give you 
some ideas if the area is hollow (balsa is already decomposed).  Cheap moisture 
meter(home depot) can be used to see if area is wet but you have to “Calibrate” 
it.  What I mean by that is the following:  since cheap meters are not designed 
to penetrate bottom paints and fiberglass to show wet core,  you need to see 
what the meter reading is on a known “dry” core, and on a known soaked core.  
Then knowing this, you can see if the area you are suspicious of is wet.  But 
weeping is never a good sign.

If you find it wet, find the edge of where wetness ends and you need to drill 
some drain holes (from the inside of the hull).  I am dealing with similar on 
another project boat I recently purchased.  I found cheap moisture meter to be 
reasonably reliable on a masonry setting.  In my case when a drilled suspicious 
area with a 3/16” hole from the inside of the hull I got a stream of water 
pouring out.  A stream that was in one case initially shooting 3” high when I 
first drilled it.  

Good luck. 

 

Petar Horvatic

Sundowner

76 C 38MkII

On the hard at Stanleys in Barrington

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of jacob fuerst 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, November 18, 2016 2:53 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: jacob fuerst
Subject: Stus-List weeping hull

 

In my '78 C 36 I am seeing a couple spots where salt water is weeping in 
through the hull near the bilge area, appearing from seemingly nowhere as if 
from a spring. One point is about 3' back from the mast and 18" to the side. 
The other is closer to the keel but they both are on the edges of hull 
stringers. 

 

I've had a few people look at it and I've gotten everything from an estimate to 
rebed the keel (though the bolts seem fine and I had the boat out in May), to 
cutting apart the fiberglass to locate where the water is running from, to 
don't worry about it.

 

Has anyone had this happen before? How big of a deal is it? The amount of water 
is minimal but I believe they were coring the hulls. Does anyone know the exact 
cross sectional thickness of the fiberglass? Were just the sides of the boat 
cored or did they do the entire hull? How did that work where the keel meets? 
Is it possible that a through-hull is leaking and water is running up to 
several feet along the core and popping up somewhere random where it has found 
a weak spot in the fiberglass? 

 

-- 

Jacob Fuerst

303-520-4669

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List weeping hull

[jacob fuerst via CnC-List]

In my '78 C 36 I am seeing a couple spots where salt water is weeping in
through the hull near the bilge area, appearing from seemingly nowhere as
if from a spring. One point is about 3' back from the mast and 18" to the
side. The other is closer to the keel but they both are on the edges of
hull stringers.

I've had a few people look at it and I've gotten everything from an
estimate to rebed the keel (though the bolts seem fine and I had the boat
out in May), to cutting apart the fiberglass to locate where the water is
running from, to don't worry about it.

Has anyone had this happen before? How big of a deal is it? The amount of
water is minimal but I believe they were coring the hulls. Does anyone know
the exact cross sectional thickness of the fiberglass? Were just the sides
of the boat cored or did they do the entire hull? How did that work where
the keel meets? Is it possible that a through-hull is leaking and water is
running up to several feet along the core and popping up somewhere random
where it has found a weak spot in the fiberglass?

-- 
*Jacob Fuerst*
*303-520-4669*
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Stus-List C Yachts Part One, by Don Finkle: RCR Yachts Sailor's News

[Don Harben via CnC-List]

HI,

http://us2.campaign-archive2.com/?u=aa4d9ef732c6edf3dabc4fd51=47c800cf93=4aeaac72bf

Don
Don Harben
Viking 34
Life
www.ncyc.ca

C 29 mk1
Life (PO Cabernet)
Oakville Yacht Squadron 

C 24
Joy (PO Snow ) 50 Point YC
Oakville Yacht Squadron 


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Stus-List 1991 C 51 and 1973 C 61

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

We hit Roche Harbor pretty much every year and I walk the docks to check out 
Koh I Noor every year.  She has been for sale for at least 6 years and looks 
like it has not been used e entire time.  Aside from what you used in the 
pictures on Craig's list she comes with a fine coating of mussels and barnacles 
on the hull.  Sad to see but seriously overpriced IMO.

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660

> 
> ---
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2016 14:36:50 -0500
> From: Steve Thomas 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1991 C 51 and 1973 C 61
> Message-ID: <20161117143712.VTKCV.32907.root@toroondcmxzfep01>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
> 
> Now that is a nice interior!
> 
> Steve Thomas
> 
>  Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List  wrote: 
> Sweet. I've been drooling at this one too:
> 
> http://vancouver.craigslist.ca/nvn/bod/5808262819.html
> 
> 
> Stus-List 1991 C 51
>> I like to drool and dream.  Thought you might want to join me.
>> http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1991/C%26C-51-2940801/
>> Annapolis---Jabins/MD/United-States#.WCyPGneZNE4
>> Josh Muckley
>> S /V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --
> 

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List New Transducer, please....

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Don — that part number isn’t showing up at my vendor yet, but I’ll be watching 
for it, along with the Standard Horizon GX6500 VHF/AIS.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Nov 18, 2016, at 9:25 AM, Don Harben  wrote:
> 
> Love that auto correct when careless!
> 
>> Fred. Pleeease put me in line for an Airmar techy thru hull transducer..  
>> Really!
> 
> Don
> 
> Don Harben
> Viking 34
> Life
> www.ncyc.ca 
> 
> 
> On Nov 18, 2016, at 10:16 AM, Don Harben  > wrote:
> 
>> Hi folks,
>> 
>> Wow, boat tech is moving along!
>> 
>> Fred. Pleeease put me in eye for ab Amir techy thru hull transducer..  
>> Really!
>> 
>> http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/PanbosMarineElectronicsCommunicationsWeblog/~3/5M-M72n-WJc/mets_2016_navico_fusion_airmar_and_signal_k.html?utm_source=feedburner_medium=email
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> Don
>> 
>> Don Harben
>> Viking 34
>> Life
>> www.ncyc.ca 
>> 

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List New Transducer, please....

[Don Harben via CnC-List]

Love that auto correct when careless!

> Fred. Pleeease put me in line for an Airmar techy thru hull transducer..  
> Really!

Don

Don Harben
Viking 34
Life
www.ncyc.ca


> On Nov 18, 2016, at 10:16 AM, Don Harben  wrote:
> 
> Hi folks,
> 
> Wow, boat tech is moving along!
> 
> Fred. Pleeease put me in eye for ab Amir techy thru hull transducer..  Really!
> 
> http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/PanbosMarineElectronicsCommunicationsWeblog/~3/5M-M72n-WJc/mets_2016_navico_fusion_airmar_and_signal_k.html?utm_source=feedburner_medium=email
> 
> Don
> 
> Don Harben
> Viking 34
> Life
> www.ncyc.ca
> 
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Stus-List New Transducer, please....

[Don Harben via CnC-List]

Hi folks,

Wow, boat tech is moving along!

Fred. Pleeease put me in eye for ab Amir techy thru hull transducer..  Really!

http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/PanbosMarineElectronicsCommunicationsWeblog/~3/5M-M72n-WJc/mets_2016_navico_fusion_airmar_and_signal_k.html?utm_source=feedburner_medium=email

Don

Don Harben
Viking 34
Life
www.ncyc.ca

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