Re: Stus-List Mast Down - Need guidance on replacement of VHF cabling & antenna

[Patrick Davin via CnC-List]

Funny, I started this same project literally just today. Must be the season
for mast-out work.

I also read the Internet boards where a few people talked up LMR-400.
Decide to go with Ancor RG213, because it's the same size as what I'm
replacing, and it sounds like LMR-400 is overkill for marine VHF purposes -
other issues (like old connections) are likely to make way more of a
difference. Also one person said LMR-400 is heavy and inflexible, making it
harder to fit through a conduit, as well as support a 40-50 foot vertical
run.

And 100 feet of Ancor RG213 is only $86 on Amazon currently, with 2-day
Prime shipping, which is cheaper than most of the marine stores I checked
(I support our local marine store plenty of other times though, so no
worries about them not getting business).

I went with the Shakespeare 5215 antenna, because it's the same model as
what I'm replacing - so the mounting bracket will fit the same template
(almost - it turns out 1 out of 3 holes is in a new spot, so I'll have to
drill/tap one new hole).

Whether you replace the cabin cabling is up to you based on how bad you
think it is. Have you done any VHF testing? When I cut our coax today, the
core and shield appeared fine (not corroded) - however not tinned like the
new coax is. I had some corrosion at the connections at the base of the
mast (and little or none at the masthead).

And our VHF reception/transmission was mediocre. Quite possibly the 33 year
old coax cable was just fine and I could've just reterminated all the
connections and reused the antenna, but a $63 antenna + ~$90 cable seemed
worth it for not having to worry about it, since I don't plan to have the
mast down again for a long time.

Since 100 feet is enough to reach the radio, I'm replacing the cabin (upper
bilge) cabling too. And not bothering with a mast base quick disconnect,
because mast pulls are a rare event in this area, and I can just add that
later (in maybe 8-10 years?) if needed.

-Patrick
1984 C LF38
Seattle, WA

On Sun, Jan 15, 2017 at 3:49 PM,  wrote:

> Belated HNY, Listers,
>
> I am having the standing rigging [rod] on my '91 30-2 re-done [hopefully,
> re-headed].
>
>
> Now that the mast is down, I am looking to replacement of all the wiring
> and running rigging.
>
> Regarding the VHF cabling, I am "hearing" that "LMR-400" is superior to
> other alternatives.
>
> So, I checked Amazon and, of course, found "LMR-400", but there appear to
> be several varieties to choose from.
>
> Or, perhaps, it's simply different terminal fittings on the same cable.  I
> can't tell.
>
> In any event, I would appreciate any feedback on which cabling to use.  I
> need about 44 ft.
>
>
> And also, any thoughts on installation "best practices".  It would seem
> I'll need to cut one end in order to get it up the mast.  Does this make
> sense?
>
> I would prefer NOT to have to cut and re-solder, but that seems to be
> unavoidable.
>
> Also, should I replace the interior cabling -- from the mast to the radio
> -- as well?
>
>
> And finally, any thoughts on the best antenna to use?
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Pete W.
>
> Siren Song
>
> C 30-2
>
> Deltaville, Va.
>
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Re: Stus-List Removing caulk residue

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

You're preaching to the converted there.  I bed everything with butyl now
Danny


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
 Date: 1/15/17  9:12 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: cenel...@aol.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Removing 
caulk residue 
Another reason to use good quality butyl tape IMHO. The old usually peels off 
easily and can be replaced with new without further cleaning of the surface. 
Since it doesn't come out of a tube like most caulks but comes off a roll, 
there is minimal mess in applying it and cleaning up the excess.




YMMV,





Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

C 36 XL/kcb




cenel...@aol.com







-Original Message-

From: Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 

To: cnc-list 

Cc: Mark McMenamy 

Sent: Sun, Jan 15, 2017 8:35 pm

Subject: Re: Stus-List Removing caulk residue












McKanica makes a silicone remover that has worked very well for me.  It's a gel 
that you put on the silicone.  After an hour or so it breaks down and comes 
right off.  It's on Amazon.








Mark





On Jan 15, 2017, at 8:23 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List  
wrote:











I've been carefully scraping with a single edge razor blade.  It still leaves a 
residue...








I'm thinking the caulk is probably silicone. 








Danny 






















Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device












 Original message 


From: G Collins via CnC-List 



Date: 1/15/17 7:02 PM (GMT-05:00) 


To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 


Cc: G Collins 



Subject: Re: Stus-List Removing caulk residue 










get a 1" chisel, very carefully use it to scrape the surface clean.  It might 
be best to round off the corners of the chisel if you are not sure of your 
hand...




Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2017-01-15 7:48 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote:






Hello all, 


I'm in the process of replacing all my hatches.  I've removed them and trying 
to clean the surface where they bed.  I have the de-bond marine product.  I 
applied that and scraped again but,  there is still residue. 








Anyone have a secret method to get that surface clean?  I'm going to try 
something abrasive like scotch Brite pads. 








Danny 






















Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device






 


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!










___





This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





All Contributions are greatly appreciated!











___



This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Removing caulk residue

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

Another reason to use good quality butyl tape IMHO. The old usually peels off 
easily and can be replaced with new without further cleaning of the surface. 
Since it doesn't come out of a tube like most caulks but comes off a roll, 
there is minimal mess in applying it and cleaning up the excess.


YMMV,


Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C 36 XL/kcb


cenel...@aol.com




-Original Message-
From: Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Mark McMenamy 
Sent: Sun, Jan 15, 2017 8:35 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Removing caulk residue




McKanica makes a silicone remover that has worked very well for me.  It's a gel 
that you put on the silicone.  After an hour or so it breaks down and comes 
right off.  It's on Amazon.


Mark

On Jan 15, 2017, at 8:23 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List  
wrote:



I've been carefully scraping with a single edge razor blade.  It still leaves a 
residue...


I'm thinking the caulk is probably silicone. 


Danny 







Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device




 Original message 
From: G Collins via CnC-List 
Date: 1/15/17 7:02 PM (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: G Collins 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Removing caulk residue 



get a 1" chisel, very carefully use it to scrape the surface clean.  It might 
be best to round off the corners of the chisel if you are not sure of your 
hand...

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11
On 2017-01-15 7:48 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote:


Hello all, 
I'm in the process of replacing all my hatches.  I've removed them and trying 
to clean the surface where they bed.  I have the de-bond marine product.  I 
applied that and scraped again but,  there is still residue. 


Anyone have a secret method to get that surface clean?  I'm going to try 
something abrasive like scotch Brite pads. 


Danny 







Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device


 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Removing caulk residue

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

McKanica makes a silicone remover that has worked very well for me.  It's a gel 
that you put on the silicone.  After an hour or so it breaks down and comes 
right off.  It's on Amazon.

Mark

On Jan 15, 2017, at 8:23 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
> wrote:

I've been carefully scraping with a single edge razor blade.  It still leaves a 
residue...

I'm thinking the caulk is probably silicone.

Danny



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

 Original message 
From: G Collins via CnC-List 
>
Date: 1/15/17 7:02 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: G Collins >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Removing caulk residue


get a 1" chisel, very carefully use it to scrape the surface clean.  It might 
be best to round off the corners of the chisel if you are not sure of your 
hand...

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2017-01-15 7:48 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote:
Hello all,
I'm in the process of replacing all my hatches.  I've removed them and trying 
to clean the surface where they bed.  I have the de-bond marine product.  I 
applied that and scraped again but,  there is still residue.

Anyone have a secret method to get that surface clean?  I'm going to try 
something abrasive like scotch Brite pads.

Danny



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Removing caulk residue

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I've been carefully scraping with a single edge razor blade.  It still leaves a 
residue...
I'm thinking the caulk is probably silicone. 
Danny 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: G Collins via CnC-List 
 Date: 1/15/17  7:02 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: G Collins  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Removing caulk residue 

get a 1" chisel, very carefully use it to scrape the surface clean.  It might 
be best to round off the corners of the chisel if you are not sure of your 
hand...


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11
On 2017-01-15 7:48 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote:



Hello all, 
I'm in the process of replacing all my hatches.  I've removed them and trying 
to clean the surface where they bed.  I have the de-bond marine product.  I 
applied that and scraped again but,  there is still residue. 



Anyone have a secret method to get that surface clean?  I'm going to try 
something abrasive like scotch Brite pads. 



Danny 










Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device



 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Mast Down - Need guidance on replacement of VHF cabling & antenna

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

While LMR400 is significantly lower loss than say RG8x the limiting factor in 
VHF communications is still antenna height not power output.  For example the 
range you could expect for a typical sailboat with an antenna height of 64’.
d = 1.2246 ∗ √hf
d = 1.2246 ∗ √64
d = 1.2246 ∗ 8
d = 9.796 NM.  
If the other boats mast is the same height you get a max range of 20 NM.  That 
will not change if you use RG8x or LMR400.  

That said if price and cable thickness do not matter it may be the better 
choice.  On the other hand it is heavier and may be more prone to water 
tunneling because of the greater diameter.  LMR400 is more significant at 
mobile frequencies because loss is much higher in UHF and microwave 
frequencies.  Jerry 
Sent from my iPhone



Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 15, 2017, at 6:24 PM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> There are some differences in LMR400 that you need to look out for.  Most 
> importantly, it comes in both 50 and 75 ohm impedance ratings.  You need the 
> 50 ohm version.  Secondly, regular LMR400 is pretty stiff, so if you need it 
> to turn somewhat sharp corners (at the masthead / mast base) then you could 
> opt for the "Ultraflex", which is a little thicker, but easier to handle.  
> The connectors you need are PL-259.  I prefer the crimp on versions, but you 
> should ideally use a specific crimp due set, which may not be worth getting 
> for a couple of connections.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Tim
> (Ex 35-3)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Sun, Jan 15, 2017 at 5:18 PM -0500, "Frederick G Street via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
>> Pete — I did this last spring; and I’m one of the ones you’re “hearing” 
>> about LMR-400 cable.  LMR-400 has tight specs, so you’re likely seeing 
>> different variations in connectors or manufacturers; but all the LMR-400 
>> cable should be identical in performance, with the exception of the 
>> highly-flexible variant (UF) and direct-burial (DB — which you shouldn’t 
>> need for the boat — if you do, you have bigger issues to deal with…).
>> 
>> You can purchase the cable raw and get the field-installable non-solder 
>> Times Microwave EZ-400-UM connectors.  These are easy to install; not quite 
>> as simple as the Shakespeare Center-pin connectors that Dennis mentioned, 
>> but Shakespeare doesn’t make connectors for LMR-400.  The other thing you 
>> can do (what I did in my case) is to make the hole in the mast large enough 
>> for the PL-259 connectors; then use a Cable Clam as strain relief and to 
>> provide weather protection to the large hole.  This worked great; and I 
>> ordered the LMR-400 cable pre-terminated on Amazon by these guys, who build 
>> to MIL-SPEC: 
>> https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Antenna-Genuine-Transmission-Connector/dp/B005DUXWMU/ref=sr_1_25?ie=UTF8=1484518381=8-25=lmr-400.
>>   They can make whatever length you need.
>> 
>> For VHF antennas, the Metz and GAM are popular; I went with a Digital 
>> Antenna 222-VW antenna: http://www.digitalantenna.com/prods/vhfantenna_3.html
>> 
>> — Fred
>> 
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>> 
>>> On Jan 15, 2017, at 12:19 PM, kelly petew via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Belated HNY, Listers,
>>> I am having the standing rigging [rod] on my '91 30-2 re-done [hopefully, 
>>> re-headed]. 
>>> 
>>> Now that the mast is down, I am looking to replacement of all the wiring 
>>> and running rigging. 
>>> Regarding the VHF cabling, I am "hearing" that "LMR-400" is superior to 
>>> other alternatives. 
>>> So, I checked Amazon and, of course, found "LMR-400", but there appear to 
>>> be several varieties to choose from.
>>> Or, perhaps, it's simply different terminal fittings on the same cable.  I 
>>> can't tell.
>>> In any event, I would appreciate any feedback on which cabling to use.  I 
>>> need about 44 ft.
>>> 
>>> And also, any thoughts on installation "best practices".  It would seem 
>>> I'll need to cut one end in order to get it up the mast.  Does this make 
>>> sense? 
>>> I would prefer NOT to have to cut and re-solder, but that seems to be 
>>> unavoidable. 
>>> Also, should I replace the interior cabling -- from the mast to the radio 
>>> -- as well? 
>>> 
>>> And finally, any thoughts on the best antenna to use?
>>> 
>>> Thanks
>>> 
>>> Pete W. 
>>> Siren Song
>>> C 30-2
>>> Deltaville, Va.
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly 

Re: Stus-List Removing caulk residue

[G Collins via CnC-List]

get a 1" chisel, very carefully use it to scrape the surface clean.  It might 
be best to round off the corners of the chisel if you are not sure of your 
hand...

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2017-01-15 7:48 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote:
Hello all,
I'm in the process of replacing all my hatches.  I've removed them and trying 
to clean the surface where they bed.  I have the de-bond marine product.  I 
applied that and scraped again but,  there is still residue.

Anyone have a secret method to get that surface clean?  I'm going to try 
something abrasive like scotch Brite pads.

Danny



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Removing caulk residue

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hello all, I'm in the process of replacing all my hatches.  I've removed them 
and trying to clean the surface where they bed.  I have the de-bond marine 
product.  I applied that and scraped again but,  there is still residue. 
Anyone have a secret method to get that surface clean?  I'm going to try 
something abrasive like scotch Brite pads. 
Danny 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Mast Down - Need guidance on replacement of VHF cabling & antenna

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

There are some differences in LMR400 that you need to look out for.  Most 
importantly, it comes in both 50 and 75 ohm impedance ratings.  You need the 50 
ohm version.  Secondly, regular LMR400 is pretty stiff, so if you need it to 
turn somewhat sharp corners (at the masthead / mast base) then you could opt 
for the "Ultraflex", which is a little thicker, but easier to handle.  The 
connectors you need are PL-259.  I prefer the crimp on versions, but you should 
ideally use a specific crimp due set, which may not be worth getting for a 
couple of connections.
Thanks,
Tim(Ex 35-3)





On Sun, Jan 15, 2017 at 5:18 PM -0500, "Frederick G Street via CnC-List" 
 wrote:










Pete — I did this last spring; and I’m one of the ones you’re “hearing” about 
LMR-400 cable.  LMR-400 has tight specs, so you’re likely seeing different 
variations in connectors or manufacturers; but all the LMR-400 cable should be 
identical in performance, with the exception of the highly-flexible variant 
(UF) and direct-burial (DB — which you shouldn’t need for the boat — if you do, 
you have bigger issues to deal with…).
You can purchase the cable raw and get the field-installable non-solder Times 
Microwave EZ-400-UM connectors.  These are easy to install; not quite as simple 
as the Shakespeare Center-pin connectors that Dennis mentioned, but Shakespeare 
doesn’t make connectors for LMR-400.  The other thing you can do (what I did in 
my case) is to make the hole in the mast large enough for the PL-259 
connectors; then use a Cable Clam as strain relief and to provide weather 
protection to the large hole.  This worked great; and I ordered the LMR-400 
cable pre-terminated on Amazon by these guys, who build to MIL-SPEC: 
https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Antenna-Genuine-Transmission-Connector/dp/B005DUXWMU/ref=sr_1_25?ie=UTF8=1484518381=8-25=lmr-400.
  They can make whatever length you need.
For VHF antennas, the Metz and GAM are popular; I went with a Digital Antenna 
222-VW antenna: http://www.digitalantenna.com/prods/vhfantenna_3.html
— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


On Jan 15, 2017, at 12:19 PM, kelly petew via CnC-List  
wrote:
Belated HNY, Listers,I am having the standing rigging [rod] on my '91 30-2 
re-done [hopefully, re-headed]. 
Now that the mast is down, I am looking to replacement of all the wiring and 
running rigging. Regarding the VHF cabling, I am "hearing" that "LMR-400" is 
superior to other alternatives. So, I checked Amazon and, of course, found 
"LMR-400", but there appear to be several varieties to choose from.Or, perhaps, 
it's simply different terminal fittings on the same cable.  I can't tell.In any 
event, I would appreciate any feedback on which cabling to use.  I need about 
44 ft.
And also, any thoughts on installation "best practices".  It would seem I'll 
need to cut one end in order to get it up the mast.  Does this make sense? I 
would prefer NOT to have to cut and re-solder, but that seems to be 
unavoidable. Also, should I replace the interior cabling -- from the mast to 
the radio -- as well? 
And finally, any thoughts on the best antenna to use?
Thanks
Pete W. Siren SongC 30-2Deltaville, Va.
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!





___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Mast Down - Need guidance on replacement of VHF cabling & antenna

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Pete — I did this last spring; and I’m one of the ones you’re “hearing” about 
LMR-400 cable.  LMR-400 has tight specs, so you’re likely seeing different 
variations in connectors or manufacturers; but all the LMR-400 cable should be 
identical in performance, with the exception of the highly-flexible variant 
(UF) and direct-burial (DB — which you shouldn’t need for the boat — if you do, 
you have bigger issues to deal with…).

You can purchase the cable raw and get the field-installable non-solder Times 
Microwave EZ-400-UM connectors.  These are easy to install; not quite as simple 
as the Shakespeare Center-pin connectors that Dennis mentioned, but Shakespeare 
doesn’t make connectors for LMR-400.  The other thing you can do (what I did in 
my case) is to make the hole in the mast large enough for the PL-259 
connectors; then use a Cable Clam as strain relief and to provide weather 
protection to the large hole.  This worked great; and I ordered the LMR-400 
cable pre-terminated on Amazon by these guys, who build to MIL-SPEC: 
https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Antenna-Genuine-Transmission-Connector/dp/B005DUXWMU/ref=sr_1_25?ie=UTF8=1484518381=8-25=lmr-400
 
.
  They can make whatever length you need.

For VHF antennas, the Metz and GAM are popular; I went with a Digital Antenna 
222-VW antenna: http://www.digitalantenna.com/prods/vhfantenna_3.html 


— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Jan 15, 2017, at 12:19 PM, kelly petew via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Belated HNY, Listers,
> I am having the standing rigging [rod] on my '91 30-2 re-done [hopefully, 
> re-headed]. 
> 
> Now that the mast is down, I am looking to replacement of all the wiring and 
> running rigging. 
> Regarding the VHF cabling, I am "hearing" that "LMR-400" is superior to other 
> alternatives. 
> So, I checked Amazon and, of course, found "LMR-400", but there appear to be 
> several varieties to choose from.
> Or, perhaps, it's simply different terminal fittings on the same cable.  I 
> can't tell.
> In any event, I would appreciate any feedback on which cabling to use.  I 
> need about 44 ft.
> 
> And also, any thoughts on installation "best practices".  It would seem I'll 
> need to cut one end in order to get it up the mast.  Does this make sense? 
> I would prefer NOT to have to cut and re-solder, but that seems to be 
> unavoidable. 
> Also, should I replace the interior cabling -- from the mast to the radio -- 
> as well? 
> 
> And finally, any thoughts on the best antenna to use?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Pete W. 
> Siren Song
> C 30-2
> Deltaville, Va.
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Mast Down - Need guidance on replacement of VHF cabling & antenna

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

On Sun, Jan 15, 2017 at 12:19 PM, kelly petew via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> And also, any thoughts on installation "best practices".  It would seem
> I'll need to cut one end in order to get it up the mast.  Does this make
> sense?


Kelly,

Here's how I install antennas.

   - Make sure the hole in the mast is smooth with no burrs or sharp
   edges.  I use a rat tail file to smooth the hole.
   - From the antenna, run the cable below the hole and back up to the
   hole.  This forms a "drip loop" so rain runs off.  The cable can enter the
   mast at a slight upward angle.
   - Use a grommet, several wraps of black electrical tape or some heat
   shrink where the cable penetrates the mast.
   - Attach the cable to the mast near the bottom of the drip loop with a
   stainless cable cushion clamp (Drill & tap for fastener and coat with
   TefGel or threadlocker)(
   
https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1465=Ancor+Stainless+Steel+Cushion+Clamps
   )

I  like the Shakespeare connectors.  Easy, foolproof and reliable.  If your
cable comes with a "factory end", put that on the antenna at the masthead.
Run the "cut" end down the mast.

I like the Metz Manta antennas.

Others opinions may vary.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Stus-List Mast Down - Need guidance on replacement of VHF cabling & antenna

[kelly petew via CnC-List]

Belated HNY, Listers,

I am having the standing rigging [rod] on my '91 30-2 re-done [hopefully, 
re-headed].


Now that the mast is down, I am looking to replacement of all the wiring and 
running rigging.

Regarding the VHF cabling, I am "hearing" that "LMR-400" is superior to other 
alternatives.

So, I checked Amazon and, of course, found "LMR-400", but there appear to be 
several varieties to choose from.

Or, perhaps, it's simply different terminal fittings on the same cable.  I 
can't tell.

In any event, I would appreciate any feedback on which cabling to use.  I need 
about 44 ft.


And also, any thoughts on installation "best practices".  It would seem I'll 
need to cut one end in order to get it up the mast.  Does this make sense?

I would prefer NOT to have to cut and re-solder, but that seems to be 
unavoidable.

Also, should I replace the interior cabling -- from the mast to the radio -- as 
well?


And finally, any thoughts on the best antenna to use?


Thanks


Pete W.

Siren Song

C 30-2

Deltaville, Va.
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