Re: Stus-List Tearing out (parts of) the interior (33-i)/insulating with expanding foam

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

5200 may be the best adhesive ever invented.  For that reason, I never use it 
(bad experience).

From: David Paine via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2017 2:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: David Paine 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tearing out (parts of) the interior (33-i)/insulating 
with expanding foam

Thanks.   The more I look at it the messier it gets.   I'm on a mooring and 
live on solar power so this has to be better than what I could do by shooting 
foam into empty space between the inset and the cabinet.  I know that I have a 
moulded insert like Dennis describes.  I know this because when I got the boat 
(years ago), it was loose and rattling around in the cabinetry.  I fixed it (oh 
why, why?) by gluing with 5200 along the flange and clamping to the counter 
top.   The counter top is 1/2 ply with a laminate surface (no insulation, none, 
nada) and is probably screwed on the edges to the rest of the underlying 
cabinet.  The screws are, I suspect, hidden underneath the laminate.  I'm 
leaning toward cutting the countertop all the way around near the edge then 
replace after insulating from above.   Of course the ice-box extends beyond and 
underneath the side locker so a significant piece of vertical teak ply 
cabinetry will need to be removed    Much to ponder! 



On Wed, Jan 25, 2017 at 2:12 PM, Lee Youngblood via CnC-List 
 wrote:


  Hi David,

  When I insulated the ice box in our C 27, I couldn’t imagine pulling it all 
apart.  I drilled a rows of holes where I would later rivet in an aluminum 1/2’ 
"angle iron”, and used the two-part foam from Tab Plastic.  They have a unit 
you wear, and mixing tips - buy several.  Months of stewing, careful drilling, 
and I poked and discovered lots of empty space, and about an inch of dried 
course insulation, sorta like that used for flower arranging.  The foam was 
injected in a few minutes, easy part of the job, and our ice lasted for over a 
week.  I built a clear plastic shelf with air-holes to keep the food out of the 
ice water, and we had a good time cruising Barkely Sound. 

  Don’t make it such a project you can’t be sailing. . .
  2 cents, Lee


On Jan 25, 2017, at 10:07 37AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 wrote:

David, 

Did you read this? http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/refrigeration 

Don't know how the reefer cabinetry in your 33-1 is made but in my 35-1 
it's a large molded insert.  Removing the fiddle rails just exposed the top of 
the molded insert.  There was no joint under the rails.  My buddy with a sister 
boat pulled the rails and cut the countertop under the rails to remove the 
icebox in order to add insulation.

Depending on how your icebox is made, I'd think long and hard before 
tackling adding insulation.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Jan 24, 2017 5:00 PM, "David Paine via CnC-List"  
wrote:

  Someone stop me before I go too far  

  I'd like to rebuild/insulate the ice box on my C 33-1 in preparation 
for the installation of a AB cold machine that I acquired recently.  To to 
insulate properly,  I am going to have to pull the ice box cabinet apart and 
possibly create and install a new, smaller, box with actual insulation.   The 
teak joinery (miters and the like) on the top of the cabinet (the fiddles) and 
around the sink look really tight and good so, if possible, I'd like to save 
those and do this as non-destructively as possible.  I've noticed that much of 
the woodwork in these boats is held in place with corroded Robertson head brass 
screws and I expect to find those beneath the plugs on the teak trim.  Other 
than that, how the cabinet box is held together is a mystery to me.  Any 
suggestions and experience (woeful and otherwise) would be much appreciated!

  Best,

  David 

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  All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



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  All Contributions are greatly appreciated!






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Re: Stus-List 1979 C 38 MKII -(Restored) Needs Keel Work

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Agreed.  In all likelihood it’s the annoying but relatively harmless C smile.

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2017 5:32 PM
To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1979 C 38 MKII -(Restored) Needs Keel Work

I fixed my “keel separation” with a big socket wrench for free. Are you sure 
the hull is coming apart vs. loose keel bolts, i.e the C smile?

Joe

Coquina

Btw – first kid on the way, fix your boat and you get this!

http://www.dellabarba.com/sailing/images/noah093x.JPG

 

good luck with whatever you do

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of tprice--- 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2017 16:56
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: tpr...@ingamemedia.com
Subject: Stus-List 1979 C 38 MKII -(Restored) Needs Keel Work

 

1979 C 38MKII

I’ve Spent two years restoring my 79 C 38 MKII. Been sailing for three 
seasons, second owner. Ran into an issue with the Keel, some separation at the 
hull, could be keel bolts, but will require attention and some fiberglass both 
of which I sadly, don't have the time to invest. First kid is on the way and I 
need to be realistic. Have all documentation, Coast Guard Certified, original 
docs, including all restoration work completed, pics, etc. 

This boat comp is about $38-$40K, the keel repair estimates were coming in at 
about $10K so pricing to move so somebody can be back in the water by next 
season. 

 

Looking for a reasonable offer and figured I would mail the list to see if 
there was any interest.  

Updates and Particulars;
Westerbeke 35B3 -- Rebuilt 2015 (15 hours)
Brand New Hood SeaFurl 5
Updated Fresh Water System, faucets, including head & Shower
All Head Pipes Replaced, including valves
WaterWitch Bilge Management System
Rule 2000, Rule 500 Redundant Bilge System
RayMarine Instrument Package
Updated shore power cabin electronics (110 + USB 2.0)
New Hot Water Heating System
Interior Refinished
Solar System and Management
All new sheaves in Mast
New Batteries
Barient 3 Speed (Rebuilt) 2016
Barient Primary and Secondary winches (All Rebuilt 2016)
Updated Running Rigging, including secondary Spinnaker Halyard
Clutches and entire running rigging controlled from cockpit not winch farm at 
mast
All Teak, restored
Full complement of sails
Tons of extra parts

 

Timothy B. Price

tpr...@ingamemedia.com

917.755.6145

 

AIM: timbprice, Yahoo: timothyprice_98, SKYPE: Timothy B Price, Twitter: 
@NYC10075

 

 




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Re: Stus-List 35 MK I battery locations

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Joe,

I just added a start battery under Touché's aft dinette seat.  I had
replaced the rigid fresh water tank with a bladder tank years ago.  I slid
the tank outboard to create space for the battery.  The install can be seen
here:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_sb5TfIENvsRXJSOE02WG5ReXM/view?usp=drivesdk

Dennis C.

On Jan 25, 2017 3:30 PM, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

I am thinking of switching over to golf cart batteries and am going nuts
trying to figure out where to put them. I think 2 might maybe fit the
standard battery compartment, but they might be too high. No way 4 fit in
there. Also that is not including the battery containers, which are needed
for wet cells. I also think I have enough extra weight on that side already
with the water tank.

I have thought of:

Starboard under the dinette seat up by the mast: Lots of room, but lots of
wire to run and that brings acid and fumes right under someone’s head/butt.
Good side is the weight is in the near-ideal place.

In the port cockpit locker: Pretty good place with short wire runs, but
maybe not the best place for the weight. Also obviously takes away from
useful storage.

Starboard cockpit locker someplace: This is the good side of the boat for
weight, but low down near the engine blocks access I use all the time to
work on the back end of the engine.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

Joe

Coquina

C 35 MK I



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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Battery Venting

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

ABYC doesn’t get any more specific than the verbiage below.  The amount of 
out-gassing is usually pretty small, unless your charger is overcharging the 
batteries; but hydrogen sulfide gas can be corrosive, so I’d tend to keep it 
away from the diesel if you can.  The vents on the tops of the ABYC/Coast 
Guard-approved Blue Sea battery boxes are pretty small; it doesn’t take much.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Jan 25, 2017, at 8:07 PM, Paul Hood via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> "Venting in battery compartment to release hydrogen".  I have 3 batteries
> under the aft berth port side but no vent.  How necessary is this and would
> a vent to the engine compartment be otherwise sufficient?
> 
> Paul Hood
> '81 C 'Refuge'
> Georgian Bay
> 
> _
> Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2017 19:45:31 -0600
> From: Frederick G Street 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 35 MK I battery locations
> Message-ID: <51ed7387-01ca-419d-9c57-008eb705d...@postaudio.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Here are most of the requirements:
> 
>> ABYC Standard E-10.6. Storage Batteries - Installation
>> 
>> Batteries shall be secured against shifting.
>> 
>> Each installed battery shall not move more than one (1) inch in any 
>> direction when a pulling force of ninety (90) pounds
>> 
>> or twice the battery weight, whichever is less, is applied through the
> center of gravity of the battery as follows:
>> 
>> (1)  Vertically for a duration of one (1) minute
>> 
>> (2)  Horizontally and parallel to the boat?s center line for a duration of
> one (1) minute fore and one (1) minute aft.
>> 
>> (3)  Horizontally and perpendicular to the boat?s center line for a 
>> duration of one (1) minute to starboard and one (1)
>> 
>> minute to port.
>> 
>> To prevent accidental contact of the ungrounded battery terminal to
> ground, each battery shall be protected so that metallic objects cannot come
> into contact with the ungrounded battery terminal. This may be accomplished
> by means such as:
>> 
>> (1)  Covering the ungrounded battery terminal with a boot or 
>> nonconductive shield,
>> 
>> (2)  Installing the battery in a covered battery box, or
>> 
>> (3)  Installing the battery in a compartment specially designed only for
> the battery(ies).
>> 
>> Each metallic fuel line and fuel system component within twelve (12)
> inches and above the horizontal plane of the battery top surface as
> installed shall be shielded with dielectric material to protect against
> accidental short-circuiting.
>> 
>> NOTES: 1. Terminal insulation or battery covers do not comply with this
> requirement since during installation or removal of a battery, these
> protective devices are usually removed in order to connect the cables.
>> 
>> 2. Any nonconductive material maybe used for shielding as long as it is
> durable enough to withstand accidental contact by a tool or the battery
> terminals during servicing, installation or removal.
>> 
>> Each battery shall not be installed directly above or below a fuel tank,
> fuel filter, or fitting in a fuel line.
>> 
>> NOTE: This does not prohibit a battery from being installed directly above
> or below an uninterrupted fuel line; however, if this fuel line is within
> the twelve (12) inch envelope of the top surface of the battery it shall be
> shielded dielectrically as required in ABYC E-10.6.d.
>> 
>> A vent system or other means shall be provided to permit the discharge
> from the boat of hydrogen gas released by the battery. Battery boxes whose
> cover forms a pocket over the battery shall be vented.
>> 
>> NOTE: These provisions also apply to installations of sealed batteries.
>> 
>> If the mounting surface or components of the boat in the immediate 
>> vicinity of the battery location are of a material attacked by
> electrolyte, a mounting means shall be provided that is made of a material
> that is not damaged by electrolyte.
>> 
>> Fasteners for the attachment of battery boxes or trays shall be isolated
> from areas intended to collect spilled electrolyte. 
>> 
> 
> 
> I don?t see it here, but the box also needs to be able to contain all of the
> electrolyte contained in the batteries housed in the box, if the cases
> crack.
> 
> ? Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
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Stus-List Battery Venting

[Paul Hood via CnC-List]

"Venting in battery compartment to release hydrogen".  I have 3 batteries
under the aft berth port side but no vent.  How necessary is this and would
a vent to the engine compartment be otherwise sufficient?

Paul Hood
'81 C 'Refuge'
Georgian Bay

_
Date: Wed, 25 Jan 2017 19:45:31 -0600
From: Frederick G Street <f...@postaudio.net>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35 MK I battery locations
Message-ID: <51ed7387-01ca-419d-9c57-008eb705d...@postaudio.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Here are most of the requirements:

> ABYC Standard E-10.6. Storage Batteries - Installation
> 
> Batteries shall be secured against shifting.
> 
> Each installed battery shall not move more than one (1) inch in any 
> direction when a pulling force of ninety (90) pounds
> 
> or twice the battery weight, whichever is less, is applied through the
center of gravity of the battery as follows:
> 
> (1)  Vertically for a duration of one (1) minute
> 
> (2)  Horizontally and parallel to the boat?s center line for a duration of
one (1) minute fore and one (1) minute aft.
> 
> (3)  Horizontally and perpendicular to the boat?s center line for a 
> duration of one (1) minute to starboard and one (1)
> 
> minute to port.
> 
> To prevent accidental contact of the ungrounded battery terminal to
ground, each battery shall be protected so that metallic objects cannot come
into contact with the ungrounded battery terminal. This may be accomplished
by means such as:
> 
> (1)  Covering the ungrounded battery terminal with a boot or 
> nonconductive shield,
> 
> (2)  Installing the battery in a covered battery box, or
> 
> (3)  Installing the battery in a compartment specially designed only for
the battery(ies).
> 
> Each metallic fuel line and fuel system component within twelve (12)
inches and above the horizontal plane of the battery top surface as
installed shall be shielded with dielectric material to protect against
accidental short-circuiting.
> 
> NOTES: 1. Terminal insulation or battery covers do not comply with this
requirement since during installation or removal of a battery, these
protective devices are usually removed in order to connect the cables.
> 
> 2. Any nonconductive material maybe used for shielding as long as it is
durable enough to withstand accidental contact by a tool or the battery
terminals during servicing, installation or removal.
> 
> Each battery shall not be installed directly above or below a fuel tank,
fuel filter, or fitting in a fuel line.
> 
> NOTE: This does not prohibit a battery from being installed directly above
or below an uninterrupted fuel line; however, if this fuel line is within
the twelve (12) inch envelope of the top surface of the battery it shall be
shielded dielectrically as required in ABYC E-10.6.d.
> 
> A vent system or other means shall be provided to permit the discharge
from the boat of hydrogen gas released by the battery. Battery boxes whose
cover forms a pocket over the battery shall be vented.
> 
> NOTE: These provisions also apply to installations of sealed batteries.
> 
> If the mounting surface or components of the boat in the immediate 
> vicinity of the battery location are of a material attacked by
electrolyte, a mounting means shall be provided that is made of a material
that is not damaged by electrolyte.
> 
> Fasteners for the attachment of battery boxes or trays shall be isolated
from areas intended to collect spilled electrolyte. 
> 


I don?t see it here, but the box also needs to be able to contain all of the
electrolyte contained in the batteries housed in the box, if the cases
crack.

? Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(



> On Jan 25, 2017, at 4:56 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> What is the exact requirement for a battery box?  Not "good practices" but
specific requirements?  Battery boxes are always so bulky and inefficient.
But a glassed in plywood box can be made to fit very exacting and efficient
spaces.
> Alternatively you could just do AGM 6v golf cart batteries.
> 
> Both main and aux battery banks were installed under the starboard dinette
seat of my boat.  200 Ah forward and 400 Ah aft.  There's few other places
to put them.
> 
> The prospects of lithium technology are very encouraging.  Near 100%
charge/discharge efficiency.  Lightweight.  Energy dense.  Maybe just drag
your feet on this project until the price comes down and the boat kitty has
grown.
> 
> 
> 
> Josh Muckley
> 
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 
> 1989 C 37+
> 
> Solomons, MD
> 

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Re: Stus-List 35 MK I battery locations

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Here are most of the requirements:

> ABYC Standard E-10.6. Storage Batteries - Installation
> 
> Batteries shall be secured against shifting.
> 
> Each installed battery shall not move more than one (1) inch in any direction 
> when a pulling force of ninety (90) pounds
> 
> or twice the battery weight, whichever is less, is applied through the center 
> of gravity of the battery as follows:
> 
> (1)  Vertically for a duration of one (1) minute
> 
> (2)  Horizontally and parallel to the boat’s center line for a duration of 
> one (1) minute fore and one (1) minute aft.
> 
> (3)  Horizontally and perpendicular to the boat’s center line for a duration 
> of one (1) minute to starboard and one (1)
> 
> minute to port.
> 
> To prevent accidental contact of the ungrounded battery terminal to ground, 
> each battery shall be protected so that metallic objects cannot come into 
> contact with the ungrounded battery terminal. This may be accomplished by 
> means such as:
> 
> (1)  Covering the ungrounded battery terminal with a boot or nonconductive 
> shield,
> 
> (2)  Installing the battery in a covered battery box, or
> 
> (3)  Installing the battery in a compartment specially designed only for the 
> battery(ies).
> 
> Each metallic fuel line and fuel system component within twelve (12) inches 
> and above the horizontal plane of the battery top surface as installed shall 
> be shielded with dielectric material to protect against accidental 
> short-circuiting.
> 
> NOTES: 1. Terminal insulation or battery covers do not comply with this 
> requirement since during installation or removal of a battery, these 
> protective devices are usually removed in order to connect the cables.
> 
> 2. Any nonconductive material maybe used for shielding as long as it is 
> durable enough to withstand accidental contact by a tool or the battery 
> terminals during servicing, installation or removal.
> 
> Each battery shall not be installed directly above or below a fuel tank, fuel 
> filter, or fitting in a fuel line.
> 
> NOTE: This does not prohibit a battery from being installed directly above or 
> below an uninterrupted fuel line; however, if this fuel line is within the 
> twelve (12) inch envelope of the top surface of the battery it shall be 
> shielded dielectrically as required in ABYC E-10.6.d.
> 
> A vent system or other means shall be provided to permit the discharge from 
> the boat of hydrogen gas released by the battery. Battery boxes whose cover 
> forms a pocket over the battery shall be vented.
> 
> NOTE: These provisions also apply to installations of sealed batteries.
> 
> If the mounting surface or components of the boat in the immediate vicinity 
> of the battery location are of a material attacked by electrolyte, a mounting 
> means shall be provided that is made of a material that is not damaged
> by electrolyte.
> 
> Fasteners for the attachment of battery boxes or trays shall be isolated from 
> areas intended to collect spilled electrolyte. 
> 


I don’t see it here, but the box also needs to be able to contain all of the 
electrolyte contained in the batteries housed in the box, if the cases crack.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(



> On Jan 25, 2017, at 4:56 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> What is the exact requirement for a battery box?  Not "good practices" but 
> specific requirements?  Battery boxes are always so bulky and inefficient.  
> But a glassed in plywood box can be made to fit very exacting and efficient 
> spaces.
> Alternatively you could just do AGM 6v golf cart batteries.
> 
> Both main and aux battery banks were installed under the starboard dinette 
> seat of my boat.  200 Ah forward and 400 Ah aft.  There's few other places to 
> put them.
> 
> The prospects of lithium technology are very encouraging.  Near 100% 
> charge/discharge efficiency.  Lightweight.  Energy dense.  Maybe just drag 
> your feet on this project until the price comes down and the boat kitty has 
> grown.
> 
> 
> 
> Josh Muckley
> 
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 
> 1989 C 37+
> 
> Solomons, MD
> 

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List cleaning the engine compartment.

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

I’ve used a pressure washer inside the bilge.  It works, but be prepared for 
some overspray.  I turned my 4000psi washer down to just under 2000psi.  It 
does a heck of a job, but can damage wiring, paint, and bilge pump switches if 
you’re not careful.

 

Use in the engine compartment is fine, as long as you don’t point the nozzle at 
any electronics, wiring, or seals on the engine.  

 

Jake

 

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

From: cenel...@aol.com [mailto:cenel...@aol.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2017 10:27
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: captain_j...@cox.net; bparslo...@yahoo.ca
Subject: Re: Stus-List cleaning the engine compartment.

 

I have been thinking of using a small power washer to clean my engine and bilge 
prior to re-painting my Beta 28. Of course I need to seal the alternator and 
the plug that connects the engine electrics to the starting panel before 

I begin blasting away with the washer. 

 

I could never reach some parts of the engine with a brush.

 

Before I begin and destroy something, does this seem like a reasonable way to 
clean the engine?

 

Charlie Nelson

C 36 XL/kcb

Water Phantom

New Bern, NC

 

  cenel...@aol.com

 

 

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 35 MK I battery locations

[Charles Nelson via CnC-List]

After 20+ years my battery boxes were in pretty sad shape. The tie downs were 
fine underneath them and I use AGM Northstar Group 31? Batteries. Pitched the 
worthless battery boxes, tied each battery down to the tie downs and sailed on. 
With secure tie downs and AGM batteries, see no need for battery boxes. Am I 
missing something--should I get new boxes?

Charlie Nelson
C 36XL/kcb
Water Phantom

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 25, 2017, at 5:56 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> What is the exact requirement for a battery box?  Not "good practices" but 
> specific requirements?  Battery boxes are always so bulky and inefficient.  
> But a glassed in plywood box can be made to fit very exacting and efficient 
> spaces.
> Alternatively you could just do AGM 6v golf cart batteries.
> 
> Both main and aux battery banks were installed under the starboard dinette 
> seat of my boat.  200 Ah forward and 400 Ah aft.  There's few other places to 
> put them.
> 
> The prospects of lithium technology are very encouraging.  Near 100% 
> charge/discharge efficiency.  Lightweight.  Energy dense.  Maybe just drag 
> your feet on this project until the price comes down and the boat kitty has 
> grown.
> 
> 
> 
> Josh Muckley
> 
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 
> 1989 C 37+
> 
> Solomons, MD
> 
> 
> On Wed, Jan 25, 2017, 5:30 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> I am thinking of switching over to golf cart batteries and am going nuts 
> trying to figure out where to put them. I think 2 might maybe fit the 
> standard battery compartment, but they might be too high. No way 4 fit in 
> there. Also that is not including the battery containers, which are needed 
> for wet cells. I also think I have enough extra weight on that side already 
> with the water tank.
> 
> I have thought of:
> 
> Starboard under the dinette seat up by the mast: Lots of room, but lots of 
> wire to run and that brings acid and fumes right under someone’s head/butt. 
> Good side is the weight is in the near-ideal place.
> 
> In the port cockpit locker: Pretty good place with short wire runs, but maybe 
> not the best place for the weight. Also obviously takes away from useful 
> storage.
> 
> Starboard cockpit locker someplace: This is the good side of the boat for 
> weight, but low down near the engine blocks access I use all the time to work 
> on the back end of the engine.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Joe
> 
> Coquina
> 
> C 35 MK I
> 
>  
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
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Re: Stus-List 35 MK I battery locations

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

What is the exact requirement for a battery box?  Not "good practices" but
specific requirements?  Battery boxes are always so bulky and inefficient.
But a glassed in plywood box can be made to fit very exacting and efficient
spaces.

Alternatively you could just do AGM 6v golf cart batteries.

Both main and aux battery banks were installed under the starboard dinette
seat of my boat.  200 Ah forward and 400 Ah aft.  There's few other places
to put them.

The prospects of lithium technology are very encouraging.  Near 100%
charge/discharge efficiency.  Lightweight.  Energy dense.  Maybe just drag
your feet on this project until the price comes down and the boat kitty has
grown.


Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

On Wed, Jan 25, 2017, 5:30 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

I am thinking of switching over to golf cart batteries and am going nuts
trying to figure out where to put them. I think 2 might maybe fit the
standard battery compartment, but they might be too high. No way 4 fit in
there. Also that is not including the battery containers, which are needed
for wet cells. I also think I have enough extra weight on that side already
with the water tank.

I have thought of:

Starboard under the dinette seat up by the mast: Lots of room, but lots of
wire to run and that brings acid and fumes right under someone’s head/butt.
Good side is the weight is in the near-ideal place.

In the port cockpit locker: Pretty good place with short wire runs, but
maybe not the best place for the weight. Also obviously takes away from
useful storage.

Starboard cockpit locker someplace: This is the good side of the boat for
weight, but low down near the engine blocks access I use all the time to
work on the back end of the engine.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

Joe

Coquina

C 35 MK I


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Re: Stus-List Welcome to the "CnC-List" mailing list (Digest mode)

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

Welcome, Allan.



Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 25 January 2017 at 08:40, Allan Hester via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Hi,
>
> Please post my email to the list. Thank you.
>
>
> allanhes...@hotmail.com
>
>
> 
> From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of
> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com [cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com]
> Sent: January 25, 2017 4:32 PM
> To: allanhes...@hotmail.com
> Subject: Welcome to the "CnC-List" mailing list (Digest mode)
>
> Welcome to the CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailing list!
>
> To post to this list, send your email to:
>
>   cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> General information about the mailing list is at:
>
>   http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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> Normally, the list server will remind you of your cnc-list.com mailing
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Re: Stus-List 1979 C 38 MKII -(Restored) Needs Keel Work

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I fixed my “keel separation” with a big socket wrench for free. Are you sure 
the hull is coming apart vs. loose keel bolts, i.e the C smile?
Joe
Coquina
Btw – first kid on the way, fix your boat and you get this!
http://www.dellabarba.com/sailing/images/noah093x.JPG

good luck with whatever you do

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of tprice--- 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2017 16:56
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: tpr...@ingamemedia.com
Subject: Stus-List 1979 C 38 MKII -(Restored) Needs Keel Work

1979 C 38MKII

I’ve Spent two years restoring my 79 C 38 MKII. Been sailing for three 
seasons, second owner. Ran into an issue with the Keel, some separation at the 
hull, could be keel bolts, but will require attention and some fiberglass both 
of which I sadly, don't have the time to invest. First kid is on the way and I 
need to be realistic. Have all documentation, Coast Guard Certified, original 
docs, including all restoration work completed, pics, etc.

This boat comp is about $38-$40K, the keel repair estimates were coming in at 
about $10K so pricing to move so somebody can be back in the water by next 
season.

Looking for a reasonable offer and figured I would mail the list to see if 
there was any interest.

Updates and Particulars;
Westerbeke 35B3 -- Rebuilt 2015 (15 hours)
Brand New Hood SeaFurl 5
Updated Fresh Water System, faucets, including head & Shower
All Head Pipes Replaced, including valves
WaterWitch Bilge Management System
Rule 2000, Rule 500 Redundant Bilge System
RayMarine Instrument Package
Updated shore power cabin electronics (110 + USB 2.0)
New Hot Water Heating System
Interior Refinished
Solar System and Management
All new sheaves in Mast
New Batteries
Barient 3 Speed (Rebuilt) 2016
Barient Primary and Secondary winches (All Rebuilt 2016)
Updated Running Rigging, including secondary Spinnaker Halyard
Clutches and entire running rigging controlled from cockpit not winch farm at 
mast
All Teak, restored
Full complement of sails
Tons of extra parts

Timothy B. Price
tpr...@ingamemedia.com
917.755.6145

AIM: timbprice, Yahoo: timothyprice_98, SKYPE: Timothy B Price, Twitter: 
@NYC10075


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Stus-List 35 MK I battery locations

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I am thinking of switching over to golf cart batteries and am going nuts trying 
to figure out where to put them. I think 2 might maybe fit the standard battery 
compartment, but they might be too high. No way 4 fit in there. Also that is 
not including the battery containers, which are needed for wet cells. I also 
think I have enough extra weight on that side already with the water tank.
I have thought of:
Starboard under the dinette seat up by the mast: Lots of room, but lots of wire 
to run and that brings acid and fumes right under someone’s head/butt. Good 
side is the weight is in the near-ideal place.
In the port cockpit locker: Pretty good place with short wire runs, but maybe 
not the best place for the weight. Also obviously takes away from useful 
storage.
Starboard cockpit locker someplace: This is the good side of the boat for 
weight, but low down near the engine blocks access I use all the time to work 
on the back end of the engine.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I

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Re: Stus-List 1979 C 38 MKII -(Restored) Needs Keel Work

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Tim.  Where is boat located.  I am in NYC.  Jerry 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 25, 2017, at 4:55 PM, tprice--- via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 1979 C 38MKII
> 
> I’ve Spent two years restoring my 79 C 38 MKII. Been sailing for three 
> seasons, second owner. Ran into an issue with the Keel, some separation at 
> the hull, could be keel bolts, but will require attention and some fiberglass 
> both of which I sadly, don't have the time to invest. First kid is on the way 
> and I need to be realistic. Have all documentation, Coast Guard Certified, 
> original docs, including all restoration work completed, pics, etc. 
> 
> This boat comp is about $38-$40K, the keel repair estimates were coming in at 
> about $10K so pricing to move so somebody can be back in the water by next 
> season. 
>  
> Looking for a reasonable offer and figured I would mail the list to see if 
> there was any interest.  
> 
> Updates and Particulars;
> Westerbeke 35B3 -- Rebuilt 2015 (15 hours)
> Brand New Hood SeaFurl 5
> Updated Fresh Water System, faucets, including head & Shower
> All Head Pipes Replaced, including valves
> WaterWitch Bilge Management System
> Rule 2000, Rule 500 Redundant Bilge System
> RayMarine Instrument Package
> Updated shore power cabin electronics (110 + USB 2.0)
> New Hot Water Heating System
> Interior Refinished
> Solar System and Management
> All new sheaves in Mast
> New Batteries
> Barient 3 Speed (Rebuilt) 2016
> Barient Primary and Secondary winches (All Rebuilt 2016)
> Updated Running Rigging, including secondary Spinnaker Halyard
> Clutches and entire running rigging controlled from cockpit not winch farm at 
> mast
> All Teak, restored
> Full complement of sails
> Tons of extra parts
>  
> Timothy B. Price
> tpr...@ingamemedia.com
> 917.755.6145
>  
> AIM: timbprice, Yahoo: timothyprice_98, SKYPE: Timothy B Price, Twitter: 
> @NYC10075
>  
>  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List 1979 C 38 MKII -(Restored) Needs Keel Work

[tprice--- via CnC-List]

1979 C 38MKII

I’ve Spent two years restoring my 79 C 38 MKII. Been sailing for three 
seasons, second owner. Ran into an issue with the Keel, some separation at the 
hull, could be keel bolts, but will require attention and some fiberglass both 
of which I sadly, don't have the time to invest. First kid is on the way and I 
need to be realistic. Have all documentation, Coast Guard Certified, original 
docs, including all restoration work completed, pics, etc.

This boat comp is about $38-$40K, the keel repair estimates were coming in at 
about $10K so pricing to move so somebody can be back in the water by next 
season.

Looking for a reasonable offer and figured I would mail the list to see if 
there was any interest.

Updates and Particulars;
Westerbeke 35B3 -- Rebuilt 2015 (15 hours)
Brand New Hood SeaFurl 5
Updated Fresh Water System, faucets, including head & Shower
All Head Pipes Replaced, including valves
WaterWitch Bilge Management System
Rule 2000, Rule 500 Redundant Bilge System
RayMarine Instrument Package
Updated shore power cabin electronics (110 + USB 2.0)
New Hot Water Heating System
Interior Refinished
Solar System and Management
All new sheaves in Mast
New Batteries
Barient 3 Speed (Rebuilt) 2016
Barient Primary and Secondary winches (All Rebuilt 2016)
Updated Running Rigging, including secondary Spinnaker Halyard
Clutches and entire running rigging controlled from cockpit not winch farm at 
mast
All Teak, restored
Full complement of sails
Tons of extra parts

Timothy B. Price
tpr...@ingamemedia.com
917.755.6145

AIM: timbprice, Yahoo: timothyprice_98, SKYPE: Timothy B Price, Twitter: 
@NYC10075


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Re: Stus-List Tearing out (parts of) the interior (33-i)/insulating with expanding foam

[David Paine via CnC-List]

Thanks.   The more I look at it the messier it gets.   I'm on a mooring and
live on solar power so this has to be better than what I could do by
shooting foam into empty space between the inset and the cabinet.  I know
that I have a moulded insert like Dennis describes.  I know this because
when I got the boat (years ago), it was loose and rattling around in the
cabinetry.  I fixed it (oh why, why?) by gluing with 5200 along the flange
and clamping to the counter top.   The counter top is 1/2 ply with a
laminate surface (no insulation, none, nada) and is probably screwed on the
edges to the rest of the underlying cabinet.  The screws are, I suspect,
hidden underneath the laminate.  I'm leaning toward cutting the countertop
all the way around near the edge then replace after insulating from above.
  Of course the ice-box extends beyond and underneath the side locker so a
significant piece of vertical teak ply cabinetry will need to be removed
   Much to ponder!



On Wed, Jan 25, 2017 at 2:12 PM, Lee Youngblood via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Hi David,
>
> When I insulated the ice box in our C 27, I couldn’t imagine pulling it
> all apart.  I drilled a rows of holes where I would later rivet in an
> aluminum 1/2’ "angle iron”, and used the two-part foam from Tab Plastic.
> They have a unit you wear, and mixing tips - buy several.  Months of
> stewing, careful drilling, and I poked and discovered lots of empty space,
> and about an inch of dried course insulation, sorta like that used for
> flower arranging.  The foam was injected in a few minutes, easy part of the
> job, and our ice lasted for over a week.  I built a clear plastic shelf
> with air-holes to keep the food out of the ice water, and we had a good
> time cruising Barkely Sound.
>
> Don’t make it such a project you can’t be sailing. . .
> 2 cents, Lee
>
>
> On Jan 25, 2017, at 10:07 37AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> David,
>
> Did you read this? http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/refrigeration
>
>
> Don't know how the reefer cabinetry in your 33-1 is made but in my 35-1
> it's a large molded insert.  Removing the fiddle rails just exposed the top
> of the molded insert.  There was no joint under the rails.  My buddy with a
> sister boat pulled the rails and cut the countertop under the rails to
> remove the icebox in order to add insulation.
>
> Depending on how your icebox is made, I'd think long and hard before
> tackling adding insulation.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Jan 24, 2017 5:00 PM, "David Paine via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> Someone stop me before I go too far 
>>
>> I'd like to rebuild/insulate the ice box on my C 33-1 in preparation
>> for the installation of a AB cold machine that I acquired recently.  To to
>> insulate properly,  I am going to have to pull the ice box cabinet apart
>> and possibly create and install a new, smaller, box with actual insulation.
>>   The teak joinery (miters and the like) on the top of the cabinet (the
>> fiddles) and around the sink look really tight and good so, if possible,
>> I'd like to save those and do this as non-destructively as possible.  I've
>> noticed that much of the woodwork in these boats is held in place with
>> corroded Robertson head brass screws and I expect to find those beneath the
>> plugs on the teak trim.  Other than that, how the cabinet box is held
>> together is a mystery to me.  Any suggestions and experience (woeful and
>> otherwise) would be much appreciated!
>>
>> Best,
>>
>> David
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Tearing out (parts of) the interior (33-i)/insulating with expanding foam

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi David,

When I insulated the ice box in our C 27, I couldn’t imagine pulling it all 
apart.  I drilled a rows of holes where I would later rivet in an aluminum 1/2’ 
"angle iron”, and used the two-part foam from Tab Plastic.  They have a unit 
you wear, and mixing tips - buy several.  Months of stewing, careful drilling, 
and I poked and discovered lots of empty space, and about an inch of dried 
course insulation, sorta like that used for flower arranging.  The foam was 
injected in a few minutes, easy part of the job, and our ice lasted for over a 
week.  I built a clear plastic shelf with air-holes to keep the food out of the 
ice water, and we had a good time cruising Barkely Sound. 

Don’t make it such a project you can’t be sailing. . .
2 cents, Lee


> On Jan 25, 2017, at 10:07 37AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> David,
> 
> Did you read this? http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/refrigeration 
>  
> 
> Don't know how the reefer cabinetry in your 33-1 is made but in my 35-1 it's 
> a large molded insert.  Removing the fiddle rails just exposed the top of the 
> molded insert.  There was no joint under the rails.  My buddy with a sister 
> boat pulled the rails and cut the countertop under the rails to remove the 
> icebox in order to add insulation.
> 
> Depending on how your icebox is made, I'd think long and hard before tackling 
> adding insulation.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Jan 24, 2017 5:00 PM, "David Paine via CnC-List"  > wrote:
> Someone stop me before I go too far 
> 
> I'd like to rebuild/insulate the ice box on my C 33-1 in preparation for 
> the installation of a AB cold machine that I acquired recently.  To to 
> insulate properly,  I am going to have to pull the ice box cabinet apart and 
> possibly create and install a new, smaller, box with actual insulation.   The 
> teak joinery (miters and the like) on the top of the cabinet (the fiddles) 
> and around the sink look really tight and good so, if possible, I'd like to 
> save those and do this as non-destructively as possible.  I've noticed that 
> much of the woodwork in these boats is held in place with corroded Robertson 
> head brass screws and I expect to find those beneath the plugs on the teak 
> trim.  Other than that, how the cabinet box is held together is a mystery to 
> me.  Any suggestions and experience (woeful and otherwise) would be much 
> appreciated!
> 
> Best,
> 
> David 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Tearing out (parts of) the interior (33-i)

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

David,

Did you read this? http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/refrigeration

Don't know how the reefer cabinetry in your 33-1 is made but in my 35-1
it's a large molded insert.  Removing the fiddle rails just exposed the top
of the molded insert.  There was no joint under the rails.  My buddy with a
sister boat pulled the rails and cut the countertop under the rails to
remove the icebox in order to add insulation.

Depending on how your icebox is made, I'd think long and hard before
tackling adding insulation.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Jan 24, 2017 5:00 PM, "David Paine via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Someone stop me before I go too far 
>
> I'd like to rebuild/insulate the ice box on my C 33-1 in preparation for
> the installation of a AB cold machine that I acquired recently.  To to
> insulate properly,  I am going to have to pull the ice box cabinet apart
> and possibly create and install a new, smaller, box with actual insulation.
>   The teak joinery (miters and the like) on the top of the cabinet (the
> fiddles) and around the sink look really tight and good so, if possible,
> I'd like to save those and do this as non-destructively as possible.  I've
> noticed that much of the woodwork in these boats is held in place with
> corroded Robertson head brass screws and I expect to find those beneath the
> plugs on the teak trim.  Other than that, how the cabinet box is held
> together is a mystery to me.  Any suggestions and experience (woeful and
> otherwise) would be much appreciated!
>
> Best,
>
> David
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List cleaning the engine compartment.

[Dave via CnC-List]

Congrats Matthew!   It appears you don't do laundry at home.  What's your 
secret?  ;-)

Dave

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 25, 2017, at 5:50 PM, Matthew L. Wolford  wrote:
> 
> I discovered something by accident a few years ago.  I decided to clean the 
> cruddy, old freshwater tank on my 34 by putting in some water and a gallon of 
> Clorox and letting it slosh around.  I discovered a day or two later that the 
> tank had leaked and nearly all the contents had drained into the bilge (which 
> was more or less filled).  When I removed the highly chlorinated water from 
> the bilge, it was remarkably clean.
>  
> From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2017 10:40 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Joel Aronson
> Subject: Re: Stus-List cleaning the engine compartment.
>  
> When I pulled the transmission in my Hylas, it took a gasket scraper to clean 
> the bilge.  Not sure a wash would have done anything to remove the crud, and 
> the bilge pump probably would have clogged.
>  
> I would worry about water getting into the air intake and electrical 
> connections that are in the bilge.  I'll take the crud over creating more 
> work.  Just my personal preference.
> Joel
>  
>> On Wed, Jan 25, 2017 at 10:26 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I have been thinking of using a small power washer to clean my engine and 
>> bilge prior to re-painting my Beta 28. Of course I need to seal the 
>> alternator and the plug that connects the engine electrics to the starting 
>> panel before
>> I begin blasting away with the washer.
>>  
>> I could never reach some parts of the engine with a brush.
>>  
>> Before I begin and destroy something, does this seem like a reasonable way 
>> to clean the engine?
>>  
>> Charlie Nelson
>> C 36 XL/kcb
>> Water Phantom
>> New Bern, NC
>>  
>> cenel...@aol.com
>>  
>>  
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
>> To: cnc-list 
>> Cc: Jake Brodersen ; 'Bev Parslow' 
>> 
>> Sent: Wed, Jan 25, 2017 5:38 am
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List cleaning the engine compartment.
>> 
>> Bev,
>>  
>> Simple Green and Purple Power are my two favorite cleaners.  Joel has had 
>> some good success with citrus based cleaners too.  Simple Green and citrus 
>> are probably two of the most earth-friendly cleaners, but always dispose of 
>> your cleaning solutions responsibly.
>>  
>> Jake
>>  
>> Jake Brodersen
>> C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
>> Hampton VA
>>  
>>  
>>  
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bev 
>> Parslow via CnC-List
>> Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2017 21:25
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Bev Parslow 
>> Subject: Stus-List cleaning the engine compartment.
>>  
>> With a few drips of oil and some water from the stuffing box the engine 
>> compartment is quite messy. I really would like to have it clean as well as 
>> the bilge. Are there any suggestions?
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> 
> 
>  
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List cleaning the engine compartment.

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

I discovered something by accident a few years ago.  I decided to clean the 
cruddy, old freshwater tank on my 34 by putting in some water and a gallon of 
Clorox and letting it slosh around.  I discovered a day or two later that the 
tank had leaked and nearly all the contents had drained into the bilge (which 
was more or less filled).  When I removed the highly chlorinated water from the 
bilge, it was remarkably clean.

From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2017 10:40 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List cleaning the engine compartment.

When I pulled the transmission in my Hylas, it took a gasket scraper to clean 
the bilge.  Not sure a wash would have done anything to remove the crud, and 
the bilge pump probably would have clogged.


I would worry about water getting into the air intake and electrical 
connections that are in the bilge.  I'll take the crud over creating more work. 
 Just my personal preference.

Joel

On Wed, Jan 25, 2017 at 10:26 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  I have been thinking of using a small power washer to clean my engine and 
bilge prior to re-painting my Beta 28. Of course I need to seal the alternator 
and the plug that connects the engine electrics to the starting panel before 
  I begin blasting away with the washer. 

  I could never reach some parts of the engine with a brush.

  Before I begin and destroy something, does this seem like a reasonable way to 
clean the engine?

  Charlie Nelson
  C 36 XL/kcb
  Water Phantom
  New Bern, NC

  cenel...@aol.com



  -Original Message-
  From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list 
  Cc: Jake Brodersen ; 'Bev Parslow' 
  Sent: Wed, Jan 25, 2017 5:38 am
  Subject: Re: Stus-List cleaning the engine compartment.


  Bev,

  Simple Green and Purple Power are my two favorite cleaners.  Joel has had 
some good success with citrus based cleaners too.  Simple Green and citrus are 
probably two of the most earth-friendly cleaners, but always dispose of your 
cleaning solutions responsibly.

  Jake

  Jake Brodersen
  C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
  Hampton VA



  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bev 
Parslow via CnC-List
  Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2017 21:25
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Bev Parslow 
  Subject: Stus-List cleaning the engine compartment.

  With a few drips of oil and some water from the stuffing box the engine 
compartment is quite messy. I really would like to have it clean as well as the 
bilge. Are there any suggestions?
  ___

  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

  All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


  ___

  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

  All Contributions are greatly appreciated!






-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551



___

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Re: Stus-List Welcome to the "CnC-List" mailing list (Digest mode)

[Allan Hester via CnC-List]

Hi,

Please post my email to the list. Thank you.


allanhes...@hotmail.com



From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of 
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com [cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com]
Sent: January 25, 2017 4:32 PM
To: allanhes...@hotmail.com
Subject: Welcome to the "CnC-List" mailing list (Digest mode)

Welcome to the CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailing list!

To post to this list, send your email to:

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You can also make such adjustments via email by sending a message to:

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Normally, the list server will remind you of your cnc-list.com mailing
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List cleaning the engine compartment.

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

When I pulled the transmission in my Hylas, it took a gasket scraper to
clean the bilge.  Not sure a wash would have done anything to remove the
crud, and the bilge pump probably would have clogged.

I would worry about water getting into the air intake and electrical
connections that are in the bilge.  I'll take the crud over creating more
work.  Just my personal preference.
Joel

On Wed, Jan 25, 2017 at 10:26 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have been thinking of using a small power washer to clean my engine and
> bilge prior to re-painting my Beta 28. Of course I need to seal the
> alternator and the plug that connects the engine electrics to the starting
> panel before
> I begin blasting away with the washer.
>
> I could never reach some parts of the engine with a brush.
>
> Before I begin and destroy something, does this seem like a reasonable way
> to clean the engine?
>
> Charlie Nelson
> C 36 XL/kcb
> Water Phantom
> New Bern, NC
>
> cenel...@aol.com
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: Jake Brodersen ; 'Bev Parslow' <
> bparslo...@yahoo.ca>
> Sent: Wed, Jan 25, 2017 5:38 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List cleaning the engine compartment.
>
> Bev,
>
> Simple Green and Purple Power are my two favorite cleaners.  Joel has had
> some good success with citrus based cleaners too.  Simple Green and citrus
> are probably two of the most earth-friendly cleaners, but always dispose of
> your cleaning solutions responsibly.
>
> Jake
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
> *C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
> *Hampton VA*
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Bev Parslow via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 24, 2017 21:25
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Bev Parslow 
> *Subject:* Stus-List cleaning the engine compartment.
>
> With a few drips of oil and some water from the stuffing box the engine
> compartment is quite messy. I really would like to have it clean as well as
> the bilge. Are there any suggestions?
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List cleaning the engine compartment.

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

I have been thinking of using a small power washer to clean my engine and bilge 
prior to re-painting my Beta 28. Of course I need to seal the alternator and 
the plug that connects the engine electrics to the starting panel before 
I begin blasting away with the washer. 
 
I could never reach some parts of the engine with a brush.
 
Before I begin and destroy something, does this seem like a reasonable way to 
clean the engine?
 
Charlie Nelson
C 36 XL/kcb
Water Phantom
New Bern, NC
 
cenel...@aol.com

 
 
-Original Message-
From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Jake Brodersen ; 'Bev Parslow' 
Sent: Wed, Jan 25, 2017 5:38 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List cleaning the engine compartment.



Bev,
 
Simple Green and Purple Power are my two favorite cleaners.  Joel has had some 
good success with citrus based cleaners too.  Simple Green and citrus are 
probably two of the most earth-friendly cleaners, but always dispose of your 
cleaning solutions responsibly.
 
Jake
 
Jake Brodersen
C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA
 
 
 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bev Parslow 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2017 21:25
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bev Parslow 
Subject: Stus-List cleaning the engine compartment.

 

With a few drips of oil and some water from the stuffing box the engine 
compartment is quite messy. I really would like to have it clean as well as the 
bilge. Are there any suggestions?


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List cleaning the engine compartment.

[Dave via CnC-List]

I used citrus cleaner - works great.

Dave

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 25, 2017, at 11:37 AM, Jake Brodersen  wrote:
> 
> Bev,
>  
> Simple Green and Purple Power are my two favorite cleaners.  Joel has had 
> some good success with citrus based cleaners too.  Simple Green and citrus 
> are probably two of the most earth-friendly cleaners, but always dispose of 
> your cleaning solutions responsibly.
>  
> Jake
>  
> Jake Brodersen
> C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
> Hampton VA
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bev 
> Parslow via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2017 21:25
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Bev Parslow 
> Subject: Stus-List cleaning the engine compartment.
>  
> With a few drips of oil and some water from the stuffing box the engine 
> compartment is quite messy. I really would like to have it clean as well as 
> the bilge. Are there any suggestions?
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Halyard replacement to Dyneema or similar

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

We had garhauer modify some of their sheaves for Perception's 3 forward 
halyards, as their stock were just slightly too wide, the aft 2 the stock fit 
fine. One benefit is the new sheaves do not rub the aluminum mast head casting. 
The sheaves I removed had chef sharp knife edges from rubbing on the casting.

To get the correct width, I sent the old sheaves to garhauer.

Our halyards now have ball bearing blocks and sheaves at all turning points 
 only noticeable friction is now from the sheet stoppers, and mast/headstay 
track.

Get Outlook for iOS


From: CnC-List  on behalf of bushmark4--- via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2017 6:30:42 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bushma...@aol.com; cssau...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Halyard replacement to Dyneema or similar

On the topic of sheaves...mine were non-operational when I purchased my boat in 
December 2013; before raising the mast, I took the sheaves apart and used a 
fine Emory cloth on both the sheaves and the axle bar; the main now goes up and 
down easily. I had planned to but a track slider system, but didn't; I seldom 
use the halyard winch and the main drops when the halyard is released.  The 
boat came from a saltwater environment and we are in freshwater, for whatever 
that's worth.  good luck with it!

Richard
S/V Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Chuck Saur via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Chuck Saur 
Sent: Tue, Jan 24, 2017 4:54 pm
Subject: Stus-List Halyard replacement to Dyneema or similar

Greetings...just 14 weeks till launch 2017!  I could not find listers' 
advice/experience about changing SIZE of halyard line from current wire/rope to 
 Dyneema blend (looking at 3/8 Samson MLX).  The halyard sheaves appear to have 
enough width to handle 3/8 line; and understand the sheaves need to be smooth 
to avoid chafe, which they appear to be.

Seems 3/8 MLX would have enough load capacity for each of the 3 halyards on my 
35-3.  Or...is there guidance to go up to a 7/16?

Anyone with opinion?


Chuck Saur

(517)-490-5926
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List cleaning the engine compartment.

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I bev, 

when I bought the current boat it had probably the most dissuading bilge I've 
ever encountered.  It was actually a storage compartment for some of the 
nastiest smelling sludge I've had to deal with, almost a gel!  

So after removing that, i used bleach and a scrub brush.  Dave here on the list 
suggested filling the bilge with water, I added bleach to that, got a scrub 
brush with a long handle and scrubbed and scrubbed as far as I could reach, 
rinsed with water from a hose.  I did that twice.  Of course the boat was on 
the hard.  All and all I scrubbed that whole bilge 4 or 5 times and that old 
boat smell was gone and the bilge was now a pleasure to work in.  Having a 
garboard drain helped with the whole process but a decent pump would work  

Then, a friend had a dewalt wet and dry battery powered vac on board his boat.  
I now keep one of those on board to suck the bilge dry once a week at least.

DannyOn Jan 24, 2017 9:24 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List  
wrote:
>
> With a few drips of oil and some water from the stuffing box the engine 
> compartment is quite messy. I really would like to have it clean as well as 
> the bilge. Are there any suggestions?
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Halyard replacement to Dyneema or similar

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

 On the topic of sheaves...mine were non-operational when I purchased my boat 
in December 2013; before raising the mast, I took the sheaves apart and used a 
fine Emory cloth on both the sheaves and the axle bar; the main now goes up and 
down easily. I had planned to but a track slider system, but didn't; I seldom 
use the halyard winch and the main drops when the halyard is released.  The 
boat came from a saltwater environment and we are in freshwater, for whatever 
that's worth.  good luck with it!

 


Richard
S/V Bushmark4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596

Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Chuck Saur via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Chuck Saur 
Sent: Tue, Jan 24, 2017 4:54 pm
Subject: Stus-List Halyard replacement to Dyneema or similar



Greetings...just 14 weeks till launch 2017!  I could not find listers' 
advice/experience about changing SIZE of halyard line from current wire/rope to 
 Dyneema blend (looking at 3/8 Samson MLX).  The halyard sheaves appear to have 
enough width to handle 3/8 line; and understand the sheaves need to be smooth 
to avoid chafe, which they appear to be.  


Seems 3/8 MLX would have enough load capacity for each of the 3 halyards on my 
35-3.  Or...is there guidance to go up to a 7/16?  


Anyone with opinion?








Chuck Saur


(517)-490-5926






___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List cleaning the engine compartment.

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Bev,

 

Simple Green and Purple Power are my two favorite cleaners.  Joel has had some 
good success with citrus based cleaners too.  Simple Green and citrus are 
probably two of the most earth-friendly cleaners, but always dispose of your 
cleaning solutions responsibly.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bev Parslow 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2017 21:25
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bev Parslow 
Subject: Stus-List cleaning the engine compartment.

 

With a few drips of oil and some water from the stuffing box the engine 
compartment is quite messy. I really would like to have it clean as well as the 
bilge. Are there any suggestions?

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!