Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Gauge Install + Explanation of British Pipe Threads

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Charlie,

 

For your benefit and the rest of the list, I have dug into the dusty archives 
of several British car companies and have learned a lot about British pipe 
threads.

 

B = British

S = Standard

P = Pipe

P = Parallel  (Yes, P can mean more than one thing…)

T = Tapered

 

BSPT threads are found on the Yanmar block.  The oil pressure sensor fitting is 
a 1/8” tapered fitting, designated BSPT.  These are pipe threads where 
pressure-tightness is made through the mating of two threads together. They 
always use a taper male thread, but can have either parallel or taper female 
threads. International standards require all female threads to be parallel.  
(This fact has helped my search quite a bit).

 

BSPP threads are parallel pipe threads used where a pressure-tight joint is 
achieved by the compression of a soft material (such as an O-ring seal or a 
washer) between the end face of the male thread and a socket or nipple face, 
with the tightening of a backnut.  The last thing you want are your nipples to 
leak!

 

So now I have found an elbow that will work in my situation.  This item should 
fit the bill and keep my sensor clear of the alternator belt.  
https://www.amazon.com/Elbow-Degree-Fitting-Female-Thread/dp/B01M4P10U2/ref=sr_1_16?s=hi
 

 =UTF8=1491387086=1-16=BSP+elbow

 

So now, whether you’re working on a Japanese engine or a British sports car, 
you know the difference between BSPT and BSPP threads.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Charlie 
Nelson via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 5, 2017 08:57
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Gauge Install

 

Geez--this list is starting to sound like a gathering of English sports car 
buffs (I used to house a classic MG and a Aston-Martin in my large garage with 
only a single wide door--the door was not a problem since the owners spent so 
much time fixing their cars, they hardly ever left the garage!). 

 

Anyhow, for the benefit of the other ignorant list members, can one of you 
explain the acronyms BSPT, BSPP, etc.? It must have something to do with the 
British 'heh'?

 

Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

C 36 XL/kcb

cenel...@aol.com  

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Re: Stus-List Announcing the 2017 C Northeast Rendezvous! - Sept 8-10, 2017 - Greenport, LI

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Its in our calendar and we are ready for official signup.  Now the only 
decision is Plum Gut or The Race! Let me know if you need any help.  I think we 
may be the closest boat.   Dave

> On Apr 5, 2017, at 3:20 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Listers,
> 
> On behalf of Rob Gallagher, David Risch and Don Sweeney, we would would to 
> invite you to attend our 2017 C Northeast Rendezvous; September 8-10, 2017 
> at the Mitchell Park Marina in Greenport. 
> 
> I’ll save some of the details for later, but here’s a little video (trust me 
> — Go full screen and turn the sound way up!) — 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8yBSXuHPaQ 
> 
> 
> Website: cncnortheast.com  
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> 
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY 
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> 
>   
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Dr. David Knecht
Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology
University of Connecticut   
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
Storrs, CT 06269-3125
860-486-2200

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Re: Stus-List Announcing the 2017 C Northeast Rendezvous! - Sept 8-10, 2017 - Greenport, LI

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Thanks.  I plan on attending.  Have been in there on numerous occasions.  Short 
sale from Three Mile Harbor.  Jerry

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
To: C List 
Cc: Edd Schillay 
Sent: Wed, Apr 5, 2017 3:21 pm
Subject: Stus-List Announcing the 2017 C Northeast Rendezvous! - Sept 8-10, 
2017 - Greenport, LI


Listers,


On behalf of Rob Gallagher, David Risch and Don Sweeney, we would would to 
invite you to attend our 2017 C Northeast Rendezvous; September 8-10, 2017 at 
the Mitchell Park Marina in Greenport. 


I’ll save some of the details for later, but here’s a little video (trust me — 
Go full screen and turn the sound way up!) — 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8yBSXuHPaQ


Website: cncnortheast.com 



All the best,


Edd




Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log













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Re: Stus-List Halifax acrylic suppliers - was Re: Windows Pt 2.

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Remember to use cast acrylic, not extruded.

Alan Bergen

On Wed, Apr 5, 2017 at 3:18 PM, Paul Wyand via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I used clear on my side port-lights, and like it. I don't think I would
> like dark grey anyway.
>
> On Wed, Apr 5, 2017 at 1:37 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I used 9mm (3/8") #126 bronze for my side windows.  I'm happy with the
>> color.
>>
>> Alan Bergen
>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>> Rose City YC
>> Portland, OR
>>
>> On Wed, Apr 5, 2017 at 10:30 AM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Thanks for all the feedback on acrylic.
>>>
>>> Talked to both Piedmont Plastics and Polymershapes today. Currently
>>> Polymershapes does not have grey/smoked in 3/8" - only in bronze.
>>>
>>> Piedmont has a light grey available in 3/8" (need to ship in from
>>> Montreal) but they don't have the darker grey currently in stock in Canada.
>>>
>>> I've got to go take a look at a sample - but googling images for "grey
>>> acrylic 2064" (light) vs "grey acrylic 2074" (dark) -- I'd think my side
>>> windows are dark and my opening hatches are the lighter grey.  I may be
>>> forced to go with light grey for both.
>>>
>>>
>>> Mark
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>>>   - George Santayana
>>>
>>> On 2017-04-04 5:12 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List wrote:
>>>

 Anyone know where to get sheets of acrylic in Halifax area?  I've done
 some searching and Piedmont Plastics is the only supplier that seems to
 come up.
 I'm waiting on them to get back to me with a price for a 4x8' sheet of
 9mm acrylic  - or even if they have any cut off etc -- but they didn't seem
 like they had any in stock and were unsure about pricing or availability.

 I got the 3M VHB tape last summer and plan on replacing the replacement
 this spring.

 Mark


 There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
   - George Santayana


>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>>> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.pay
>>> pal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H
>>> 8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=
>>> r1igzpuR43MUr5p0bzqRmwciNdY2UWdfX_ty6wvU4tU=ZBkkJ1oxosFhPg
>>> 4pXQbQzXdQ5yrNxazTgN7pALupzbY=
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Alan Bergen
>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>> Rose City YC
>> Portland, OR
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.
> paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN
> 0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=c-aV-
> NJ7Ev5XxwIjRfE02AwuNieDXykdE3xpn9aAUoY=463fdL0iCMz7nCV9jIbWtvpLNV-d-
> ymt8CveodCHBaE=
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List Halifax acrylic suppliers - was Re: Windows Pt 2.

[Paul Wyand via CnC-List]

I used clear on my side port-lights, and like it. I don't think I would
like dark grey anyway.

On Wed, Apr 5, 2017 at 1:37 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I used 9mm (3/8") #126 bronze for my side windows.  I'm happy with the
> color.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> On Wed, Apr 5, 2017 at 10:30 AM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> Thanks for all the feedback on acrylic.
>>
>> Talked to both Piedmont Plastics and Polymershapes today. Currently
>> Polymershapes does not have grey/smoked in 3/8" - only in bronze.
>>
>> Piedmont has a light grey available in 3/8" (need to ship in from
>> Montreal) but they don't have the darker grey currently in stock in Canada.
>>
>> I've got to go take a look at a sample - but googling images for "grey
>> acrylic 2064" (light) vs "grey acrylic 2074" (dark) -- I'd think my side
>> windows are dark and my opening hatches are the lighter grey.  I may be
>> forced to go with light grey for both.
>>
>>
>> Mark
>>
>>
>>
>> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>>   - George Santayana
>>
>> On 2017-04-04 5:12 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Anyone know where to get sheets of acrylic in Halifax area?  I've done
>>> some searching and Piedmont Plastics is the only supplier that seems to
>>> come up.
>>> I'm waiting on them to get back to me with a price for a 4x8' sheet of
>>> 9mm acrylic  - or even if they have any cut off etc -- but they didn't seem
>>> like they had any in stock and were unsure about pricing or availability.
>>>
>>> I got the 3M VHB tape last summer and plan on replacing the replacement
>>> this spring.
>>>
>>> Mark
>>>
>>>
>>> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>>>   - George Santayana
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.pay
>> pal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H
>> 8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=
>> r1igzpuR43MUr5p0bzqRmwciNdY2UWdfX_ty6wvU4tU=ZBkkJ1oxosFhPg
>> 4pXQbQzXdQ5yrNxazTgN7pALupzbY=
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Announcing the 2017 C Northeast Rendezvous! - Sept 8-10, 2017 - Greenport, LI

[Ian Matthew via CnC-List]

Very cool!  Almost makes me wish I was in the Northeast US.
Oh wait - you have ice up there in the winter. Maybe I'll stay in San
Francisco!

Ian Matthew
"Siento el Viento"
C 29-1
San Francisco Bay

On Wed, Apr 5, 2017 at 12:21 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> On behalf of Rob Gallagher, David Risch and Don Sweeney, we would would to
> invite you to attend our 2017 C Northeast Rendezvous; September 8-10,
> 2017 at the Mitchell Park Marina in Greenport.
>
> I’ll save some of the details for later, but here’s a little video (trust
> me — Go full screen and turn the sound way up!) —
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8yBSXuHPaQ
>
> Website: cncnortheast.com
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
-- 
Ian Matthew
"Siento el Viento" C 29-1
San Francisco Bay

Sent from my iPad using Gmail Mobile
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Stus-List Announcing the 2017 C Northeast Rendezvous! - Sept 8-10, 2017 - Greenport, LI

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Listers,

On behalf of Rob Gallagher, David Risch and Don Sweeney, we would would to 
invite you to attend our 2017 C Northeast Rendezvous; September 8-10, 2017 at 
the Mitchell Park Marina in Greenport. 

I’ll save some of the details for later, but here’s a little video (trust me — 
Go full screen and turn the sound way up!) — 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8yBSXuHPaQ 


Website: cncnortheast.com  

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 






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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Drilling a Hole in the Hull (Sam Salter)

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

My thoughts are:
When you drill a hole with a hole saw it’s going to be a little larger anyway. 
But I don’t see the need for clearance – you want a fairly tight, solid fit. 
Lots of “goop” (...a technical term!) doesn’t seal any better. The seal is one 
molecule wide between the hull and sealant and one molecule wide between the 
sealant and the through hull. The rest is just mess to clean up! The seal will 
be on the through hull flange (on the outside) and the washer on the inside. 
Therefore any extra sealant in a larger hole would be redundant.

(I hate silicone and I hate butyl! ☹)
...jut sayin’ 

sam :-)

From: Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
Sent: April 5, 2017 12:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Thomas Delaney
Subject: Re: Stus-List Drilling a Hole in the Hull (Sam Salter)

Sam, 
Actually, your question is something I would like to hear the list's thoughts 
on. I've read that you should drill the hole a size larger than the thruhull, 
but I have no idea if that is best practice or not. Should I be drilling the 
hole the same size as the thruhull, or should it be a little larger?

Best,
Tom

---
Snow Goose
C 35 Mk I
City Island, NY

-- Forwarded message --
From: Sam Salter 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: 
Bcc: 
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2017 11:17:10 -0600
Subject: Re: Stus-List Drilling a Hole in the Hull
Using tape and starting in reverse to drill a neat hole through gel coat is 
good advice.
Depending on where you drill, you might get balsa core, especially above the 
waterline  (not sure if the 35 has a cored hull)
I don't think silicone has any place on a boat. I'd use Sikaflex. (I'm not keen 
on butyl either‎ - my deck to hull joint is butyl and it drips everywhere!)
‎Why a 1 1/4" hole for a 1 1/8" fitting? 

sam :-)
C 26 Liquorice 
Ghost Lake Alberta 

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Re: Stus-List genoa cars and tracks - C 30 MK1 1979

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

I installed separate tracks. A longer one back to handle sails in the 140 - 155 
range
and a short track between the shrouds and cabin for < 100.

The height of the clew controls how far back the genoa car is positioned. I 
doubt the
110 will sheet inside of the shrouds. If the clew is higher than the top life 
line it will
sheet a few feet back of the shrouds and you can design with one longer track
inboard towards the cabin. If the clew is low than a more outboard track closer
to the shrouds is needed.

http://www.sailmagazine.com/racing/regattas/headsail-sheeting/

That is a good starting point. You can measure and leave a tape strip on the 
luff
about 40% up, then play with the sheets until you see where they land.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1





From: Steven Tattrie  

Hi everyone, 
 
I am investigating putting genoa tracks and cars on my C MK1 1979. I 
have a 110 and 150 head sail. 
 
Can folks racing 30's comment on what is the best configuration of tracks 
on a 30. Will one long track work verses separate tracks for different 
sails? and where on the deck would they be installed? would the 110 be 
sheeted inside the shrouds? when they are best used? 
 
I have been searching photos on the internet and found at least half a 
dozen different configurations. So I don't think will be an easy decision 
on where to locate. 
 
you comments will be appreciated 
 
Steve 
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Re: Stus-List Drilling a Hole in the Hull (Sam Salter)

[Thomas Delaney via CnC-List]

Sam,

Actually, your question is something I would like to hear the list's
thoughts on. I've read that you should drill the hole a size larger than
the thruhull, but I have no idea if that is best practice or not. Should I
be drilling the hole the same size as the thruhull, or should it be a
little larger?

Best,
Tom

---
Snow Goose
C 35 Mk I
City Island, NY

-- Forwarded message --
From: Sam Salter 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Wed, 05 Apr 2017 11:17:10 -0600
Subject: Re: Stus-List Drilling a Hole in the Hull
Using tape and starting in reverse to drill a neat hole through gel coat is
good advice.
Depending on where you drill, you might get balsa core, especially above
the waterline  (not sure if the 35 has a cored hull)
I don't think silicone has any place on a boat. I'd use Sikaflex. (I'm not
keen on butyl either‎ - my deck to hull joint is butyl and it drips
everywhere!)
‎Why a 1 1/4" hole for a 1 1/8" fitting?

sam :-)
C 26 Liquorice
Ghost Lake Alberta
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List genoa cars and tracks - C 30 MK1 1979

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I have long tracks which start about two feet aft of the shrouds and are even 
with them across-wise. They are about eight feet long. The 140+/- sheets near 
the forward end of the gate and the 155 sheets mid-to aft in the gate. The clew 
of the ‘working jib’ which may be original to the 1980 boat (seldom used) goes 
around the shrouds, and touches the shroud with the clew cringle. It sheets 
nearly where the 140 does because of its high clew (about 4 feet off deck) and 
it is rather full for a little sail. I sheet the genoas to the rail when 
reaching, as having them pinched into the track just chokes them off.

 

A different cut on a small jib would require a car and short track which could 
be inside the shrouds.

 

Garhauer adjustable cars work just fine for this.

 

Gary Nylander

30-1 #593

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of RANDY via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 5, 2017 1:52 PM
To: cnc-list 
Cc: RANDY 
Subject: Re: Stus-List genoa cars and tracks - C 30 MK1 1979

 

I've only got short (~2') tracks between the rails and the coamings, with their 
forward ends at the aft lifeline gate stanchion / forward primary winch.  I use 
them with the cars all the way forward for my #2 genoa (150%), and with the 
cars all the way aft for my #1 genoa (165%).  I use snatch blocks on the rails 
for smaller headsails.  With my #3 genoa (130%) I position the blocks just 
forward of the forward lifeline gate brace.  To use my working jib I'd position 
the blocks farther forward and would probably wish they were more inboard, but 
to be honest I hardly ever sail with a headsail smaller than the #3 genoa.  
This system could probably use some fine tuning, but it was good enough for me 
last year, and I won races when the wind was up.

 

Cheers,

Randy Stafford

S/V Grenadine

C 30-1 #7

Ken Caryl, CO

 

  _  

From: "Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List"  >
To: "cnc-list"  >
Cc: "Ronald B. Frerker"  >
Sent: Wednesday, April 5, 2017 11:27:53 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List genoa cars and tracks - C 30 MK1 1979

 

I have the shoal draft model and have found that I'm better off not trying to 
point too high.  As a result, the genoa track between the rail and the coming 
going up a couple feet forward of the bulkhead works well.  However, sheeting 
to the toe rail works well also.

For the smaller jib, I always use the rail.  Pointing too high just seems a bad 
tradeoff with the shoal draft keel.

Ron

Wild Cheri

C 30-1

STL

 

 

 

  _  

From: Steven Tattrie via CnC-List  >
To: cnc-list  > 
Cc: Steven Tattrie  >
Sent: Wednesday, April 5, 2017 9:35 AM
Subject: Stus-List genoa cars and tracks - C 30 MK1 1979



 

Hi everyone,

 

I am investigating putting genoa tracks and cars on my C MK1 1979. I have a 
110 and 150 head sail. 

 

Can folks racing 30's comment on what is the best configuration of tracks on a 
30. Will one long track work verses separate tracks for different sails? and 
where on the deck would they be installed? would the 110 be sheeted inside the 
shrouds? when they are best used?

 

I have been searching photos on the internet and found at least half a dozen 
different configurations. So I don't think will be an easy decision on where to 
locate.

 

you comments will be appreciated

 

Steve

 


___

 

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

 

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Drilling a Hole in the Hull

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Just a caution on using a hole saw.  You shouldn't have a problem with a 1
1/4 hole saw but when using a larger one you should use a drill with a side
handle.  I have a corded 1/2 inch drill with a side handle that I use for
all hole saw work.  A broken wrist could be painful.  :)

Dennis C.

On Wed, Apr 5, 2017 at 11:05 AM, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi listers,
>
> Thanks, everyone, for your advice on the solar charging system and ACR.
> Onto the next project!
>
> I'm going to be drilling a hole in the hull to install a
> well-above-the-waterline thruhull for a bilge pump discharge hose. The
> thruhull is 1 1/8" inch, so I'm going to use a 1 1/4" hole saw drill bit.
> I'm going to seal it with 3m 4200. Does this plan make sense? Are there any
> surprises to expect?
>
> Thanks,
> Tom
>
>  ---
> Snow Goose
> C 35 Mk I
> City Island, NY
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List genoa cars and tracks - C 30 MK1 1979

[RANDY via CnC-List]

I've only got short (~2') tracks between the rails and the coamings, with their 
forward ends at the aft lifeline gate stanchion / forward primary winch. I use 
them with the cars all the way forward for my #2 genoa (150%), and with the 
cars all the way aft for my #1 genoa (165%). I use snatch blocks on the rails 
for smaller headsails. With my #3 genoa (130%) I position the blocks just 
forward of the forward lifeline gate brace. To use my working jib I'd position 
the blocks farther forward and would probably wish they were more inboard, but 
to be honest I hardly ever sail with a headsail smaller than the #3 genoa. This 
system could probably use some fine tuning, but it was good enough for me last 
year, and I won races when the wind was up. 

Cheers, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C 30-1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 

- Original Message -

From: "Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Ronald B. Frerker"  
Sent: Wednesday, April 5, 2017 11:27:53 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List genoa cars and tracks - C 30 MK1 1979 

I have the shoal draft model and have found that I'm better off not trying to 
point too high. As a result, the genoa track between the rail and the coming 
going up a couple feet forward of the bulkhead works well. However, sheeting to 
the toe rail works well also. 
For the smaller jib, I always use the rail. Pointing too high just seems a bad 
tradeoff with the shoal draft keel. 
Ron 
Wild Cheri 
C 30-1 
STL 




From: Steven Tattrie via CnC-List  
To: cnc-list  
Cc: Steven Tattrie  
Sent: Wednesday, April 5, 2017 9:35 AM 
Subject: Stus-List genoa cars and tracks - C 30 MK1 1979 

Hi everyone, 

I am investigating putting genoa tracks and cars on my C MK1 1979. I have a 
110 and 150 head sail. 

Can folks racing 30's comment on what is the best configuration of tracks on a 
30. Will one long track work verses separate tracks for different sails? and 
where on the deck would they be installed? would the 110 be sheeted inside the 
shrouds? when they are best used? 

I have been searching photos on the internet and found at least half a dozen 
different configurations. So I don't think will be an easy decision on where to 
locate. 

you comments will be appreciated 

Steve 


___ 

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Re: Stus-List Halifax acrylic suppliers - was Re: Windows Pt 2.

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I used 9mm (3/8") #126 bronze for my side windows.  I'm happy with the
color.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Wed, Apr 5, 2017 at 10:30 AM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Thanks for all the feedback on acrylic.
>
> Talked to both Piedmont Plastics and Polymershapes today. Currently
> Polymershapes does not have grey/smoked in 3/8" - only in bronze.
>
> Piedmont has a light grey available in 3/8" (need to ship in from
> Montreal) but they don't have the darker grey currently in stock in Canada.
>
> I've got to go take a look at a sample - but googling images for "grey
> acrylic 2064" (light) vs "grey acrylic 2074" (dark) -- I'd think my side
> windows are dark and my opening hatches are the lighter grey.  I may be
> forced to go with light grey for both.
>
>
> Mark
>
>
>
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>   - George Santayana
>
> On 2017-04-04 5:12 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List wrote:
>
>>
>> Anyone know where to get sheets of acrylic in Halifax area?  I've done
>> some searching and Piedmont Plastics is the only supplier that seems to
>> come up.
>> I'm waiting on them to get back to me with a price for a 4x8' sheet of
>> 9mm acrylic  - or even if they have any cut off etc -- but they didn't seem
>> like they had any in stock and were unsure about pricing or availability.
>>
>> I got the 3M VHB tape last summer and plan on replacing the replacement
>> this spring.
>>
>> Mark
>>
>>
>> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>>   - George Santayana
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.pay
> pal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H
> 8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=
> r1igzpuR43MUr5p0bzqRmwciNdY2UWdfX_ty6wvU4tU=ZBkkJ1oxosFhPg
> 4pXQbQzXdQ5yrNxazTgN7pALupzbY=
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>



-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List Halifax acrylic suppliers - was Re: Windows Pt 2.

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Bronze is what was used originally on the C, both for the fixed windows and 
the hatches, FWIW…

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Apr 5, 2017, at 12:30 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thanks for all the feedback on acrylic.
> 
> Talked to both Piedmont Plastics and Polymershapes today. Currently 
> Polymershapes does not have grey/smoked in 3/8" - only in bronze.
> 
> Piedmont has a light grey available in 3/8" (need to ship in from Montreal) 
> but they don't have the darker grey currently in stock in Canada.
> 
> I've got to go take a look at a sample - but googling images for "grey 
> acrylic 2064" (light) vs "grey acrylic 2074" (dark) -- I'd think my side 
> windows are dark and my opening hatches are the lighter grey.  I may be 
> forced to go with light grey for both.
> 
> 
> Mark

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Halifax acrylic suppliers - was Re: Windows Pt 2.

[Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the feedback on acrylic.

Talked to both Piedmont Plastics and Polymershapes today. Currently 
Polymershapes does not have grey/smoked in 3/8" - only in bronze.


Piedmont has a light grey available in 3/8" (need to ship in from 
Montreal) but they don't have the darker grey currently in stock in Canada.


I've got to go take a look at a sample - but googling images for "grey 
acrylic 2064" (light) vs "grey acrylic 2074" (dark) -- I'd think my side 
windows are dark and my opening hatches are the lighter grey.  I may be 
forced to go with light grey for both.



Mark



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 2017-04-04 5:12 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List wrote:


Anyone know where to get sheets of acrylic in Halifax area?  I've done 
some searching and Piedmont Plastics is the only supplier that seems 
to come up.
I'm waiting on them to get back to me with a price for a 4x8' sheet of 
9mm acrylic  - or even if they have any cut off etc -- but they didn't 
seem like they had any in stock and were unsure about pricing or 
availability.


I got the 3M VHB tape last summer and plan on replacing the 
replacement this spring.


Mark


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana




___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List genoa cars and tracks - C 30 MK1 1979

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

I have the shoal draft model and have found that I'm better off not trying to 
point too high.  As a result, the genoa track between the rail and the coming 
going up a couple feet forward of the bulkhead works well.  However, sheeting 
to the toe rail works well also.For the smaller jib, I always use the rail.  
Pointing too high just seems a bad tradeoff with the shoal draft keel.RonWild 
CheriC 30-1STL


  From: Steven Tattrie via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list  
Cc: Steven Tattrie 
 Sent: Wednesday, April 5, 2017 9:35 AM
 Subject: Stus-List genoa cars and tracks - C 30 MK1 1979
   
Hi everyone,
I am investigating putting genoa tracks and cars on my C MK1 1979. I have a 
110 and 150 head sail. 
Can folks racing 30's comment on what is the best configuration of tracks on a 
30. Will one long track work verses separate tracks for different sails? and 
where on the deck would they be installed? would the 110 be sheeted inside the 
shrouds? when they are best used?
I have been searching photos on the internet and found at least half a dozen 
different configurations. So I don't think will be an easy decision on where to 
locate.
you comments will be appreciated
Steve
   ___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Drilling a Hole in the Hull

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Exactly.

Dennis C.

On Wed, Apr 5, 2017 at 11:20 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Tom,
>
> Dennis helped me with a similar project.  Key is to not break the gelcoat!
> IIRC, put masking tape over the area on the outside.  Drill a small pilot
> hold from the inside through the hull.  Use your hole saw first from the
> inside, drilling 1/2 way through, then drill the rest from the outside.
>
> Dennis, did I get it right?
>
> Joel
>
> On Wed, Apr 5, 2017 at 12:05 PM, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi listers,
>>
>> Thanks, everyone, for your advice on the solar charging system and ACR.
>> Onto the next project!
>>
>> I'm going to be drilling a hole in the hull to install a
>> well-above-the-waterline thruhull for a bilge pump discharge hose. The
>> thruhull is 1 1/8" inch, so I'm going to use a 1 1/4" hole saw drill bit.
>> I'm going to seal it with 3m 4200. Does this plan make sense? Are there any
>> surprises to expect?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551 <(301)%20541-8551>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Drilling a Hole in the Hull

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

LifeCaulk is not recommended for plastics because it’s partly a polysulfide 
product, which will eat plastic.  LifeSeal is my product of choice for this.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Apr 5, 2017, at 11:59 AM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 3M 4200 will work, but if the fitting is plastic, chances are you will be 
> replacing it again someday. 4200 is not as difficult as 5200, but neither is 
> easy to remove. Above the waterline through hulls are the only place that I 
> use silicone. Polysulfide (Life Caulk) would probably work, but there is a 
> caution about its use with plastics, and I don't know why. All of the plastic 
> tank vent through hulls, the shower through hull, and the electric bilge 
> through hulls needed replacement on my C Southern sunshine!
> 
> Steve Thomas

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Drilling a Hole in the Hull

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

Using tape and starting in reverse to drill a neat hole through gel coat is 
good advice.
Depending on where you drill, you might get balsa core, especially above the 
waterline  (not sure if the 35 has a cored hull)
I don't think silicone has any place on a boat. I'd use Sikaflex. (I'm not keen 
on butyl either‎ - my deck to hull joint is butyl and it drips everywhere!)
‎Why a 1 1/4" hole for a 1 1/8" fitting? 

sam :-)
C 26 Liquorice 
Ghost Lake Alberta 

  Original Message  
From: Steve Thomas via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 5, 2017 10:59 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve Thomas
Subject: Re: Stus-List Drilling a Hole in the Hull

3M 4200 will work, but if the fitting is plastic, chances are you will be 
replacing it again someday. 4200 is not as difficult as 5200, but neither is 
easy to remove. Above the waterline through hulls are the only place that I use 
silicone. Polysulfide (Life Caulk) would probably work, but there is a caution 
about its use with plastics, and I don't know why. All of the plastic tank vent 
through hulls, the shower through hull, and the electric bilge through hulls 
needed replacement on my C Southern sunshine!

Steve Thomas

 Thomas Delaney via CnC-List  wrote: 
Hi listers,

Thanks, everyone, for your advice on the solar charging system and ACR.
Onto the next project!

I'm going to be drilling a hole in the hull to install a
well-above-the-waterline thruhull for a bilge pump discharge hose. The
thruhull is 1 1/8" inch, so I'm going to use a 1 1/4" hole saw drill bit.
I'm going to seal it with 3m 4200. Does this plan make sense? Are there any
surprises to expect?

Thanks,
Tom

---
Snow Goose
C 35 Mk I
City Island, NY


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Drilling a Hole in the Hull

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

3M 4200 will work, but if the fitting is plastic, chances are you will be 
replacing it again someday. 4200 is not as difficult as 5200, but neither is 
easy to remove. Above the waterline through hulls are the only place that I use 
silicone. Polysulfide (Life Caulk) would probably work, but there is a caution 
about its use with plastics, and I don't know why. All of the plastic tank vent 
through hulls, the shower through hull, and the electric bilge through hulls 
needed replacement on my C Southern sunshine!

Steve Thomas

 Thomas Delaney via CnC-List  wrote: 
Hi listers,

Thanks, everyone, for your advice on the solar charging system and ACR.
Onto the next project!

I'm going to be drilling a hole in the hull to install a
well-above-the-waterline thruhull for a bilge pump discharge hose. The
thruhull is 1 1/8" inch, so I'm going to use a 1 1/4" hole saw drill bit.
I'm going to seal it with 3m 4200. Does this plan make sense? Are there any
surprises to expect?

Thanks,
Tom

 ---
Snow Goose
C 35 Mk I
City Island, NY


___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Drilling a Hole in the Hull

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Joel that's the way I do it. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 
 Original message From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
 Date: 4/5/17  09:20  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Joel Aronson  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Drilling a Hole in the Hull 
Tom,
Dennis helped me with a similar project.  Key is to not break the gelcoat!IIRC, 
put masking tape over the area on the outside.  Drill a small pilot hold from 
the inside through the hull.  Use your hole saw first from the inside, drilling 
1/2 way through, then drill the rest from the outside.
Dennis, did I get it right?
Joel
On Wed, Apr 5, 2017 at 12:05 PM, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Hi listers,
Thanks, everyone, for your advice on the solar charging system and ACR. Onto 
the next project!
I'm going to be drilling a hole in the hull to install a 
well-above-the-waterline thruhull for a bilge pump discharge hose. The thruhull 
is 1 1/8" inch, so I'm going to use a 1 1/4" hole saw drill bit. I'm going to 
seal it with 3m 4200. Does this plan make sense? Are there any surprises to 
expect?
Thanks,Tom
 ---
Snow Goose
C 35 Mk I
City Island, NY



___



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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



All Contributions are greatly appreciated!





-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Gauge Install

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I would highly advise against drilling any where near an oil passage. One small 
stray metal chip could get onto a bearing surface and you are rebuilding your 
engine. Find the correct fittings and seal with permatex #2. I used NPT 
fittings on my 3QM30 when I installed an oil pressure gauge. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 
 Original message From: Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
 Date: 4/5/17  05:40  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Jerome Tauber  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Oil Pressure Gauge Install 
Could you retap hole?  "GlowShift’s 1/8 NPT Drill and Tap Kit is perfect kit 
for anyone looking to drill and tap directly into the exhaust manifold or 
intake manifold. The featured 1/8 NPT Tap is used for tapping EGT probes and 
boost gauge fitting holes for gauge sensors that will deliver optimum results 
directly from the source. The size R high speed steel drill bit’s overall 
length is 4 3/4 inches with a 118° point that drills the perfect hole to tap 
into. The cobalt finish increases lubricity and chip flow and can be used in 
various applications."
Jerry 
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 4, 2017, at 11:02 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Use the original sender?  Joe Della Barbajoe@dellabarba.comFrom: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jake Brodersen via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2017 9:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jake Brodersen 
Subject: Stus-List Oil Pressure Gauge Install Guys, I’ve installed an electric 
VDO oil pressure gauge, but the sensor install is giving me a bit of a problem. 
 I bought the tee fitting from eBay, like Josh and several others.  It is 
listed here:   
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-8-BSPT-Oil-Pressure-Sensor-Tee-to-NPT-Adapter-Turbo-Lexus-Toyota-Subaru-Mazda-/351867602261
  The only issue I have is that the Yanmar sensor sticks out from the block too 
far and actually touches the alternator belt.  I would like to install a 90 
degree elbow and point the sensor down, which I think would solve my problem.  
The problem is finding a compatible product.  It would have to be a 
male-to-female 90 degree (or 45 degree) elbow with 1/8” BSPT threads on both 
ends.  I’ve found a number of male-to-male fittings, but that won’t quite work. 
I’ve searched a lot and haven’t found anything that would work.  Has anyone 
else run into this problem?  I don’t have room to relocated the alternator 
enough to provide clearance. Any ideas? Jake Jake BrodersenC 35 Mk-III 
“Midnight Mistress”Hampton VA
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___

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Re: Stus-List Drilling a Hole in the Hull

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Joel,

I’d run the holesaw in reverse to lightly go through the gelcoat. Once you have 
a good clean pilot hole, you could start out side and likely finish from 
outside.  Hole saws can be wicked in close quarters, and you don’t want to 
enlarge your pilot hole before you make your “clean cut”.

2 cents, Lee


> On Apr 5, 2017, at 9:20 04AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Tom,
> 
> Dennis helped me with a similar project.  Key is to not break the gelcoat!
> IIRC, put masking tape over the area on the outside.  Drill a small pilot 
> hold from the inside through the hull.  Use your hole saw first from the 
> inside, drilling 1/2 way through, then drill the rest from the outside.
> 
> Dennis, did I get it right?
> 
> Joel
> 
> On Wed, Apr 5, 2017 at 12:05 PM, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List 
> > wrote:
> Hi listers,
> 
> Thanks, everyone, for your advice on the solar charging system and ACR. Onto 
> the next project!
> 
> I'm going to be drilling a hole in the hull to install a 
> well-above-the-waterline thruhull for a bilge pump discharge hose. The 
> thruhull is 1 1/8" inch, so I'm going to use a 1 1/4" hole saw drill bit. I'm 
> going to seal it with 3m 4200. Does this plan make sense? Are there any 
> surprises to expect?
> 
> Thanks,
> Tom
> 
>  ---
> Snow Goose
> C 35 Mk I
> City Island, NY
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Drilling a Hole in the Hull

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Tom,

Dennis helped me with a similar project.  Key is to not break the gelcoat!
IIRC, put masking tape over the area on the outside.  Drill a small pilot
hold from the inside through the hull.  Use your hole saw first from the
inside, drilling 1/2 way through, then drill the rest from the outside.

Dennis, did I get it right?

Joel

On Wed, Apr 5, 2017 at 12:05 PM, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi listers,
>
> Thanks, everyone, for your advice on the solar charging system and ACR.
> Onto the next project!
>
> I'm going to be drilling a hole in the hull to install a
> well-above-the-waterline thruhull for a bilge pump discharge hose. The
> thruhull is 1 1/8" inch, so I'm going to use a 1 1/4" hole saw drill bit.
> I'm going to seal it with 3m 4200. Does this plan make sense? Are there any
> surprises to expect?
>
> Thanks,
> Tom
>
>  ---
> Snow Goose
> C 35 Mk I
> City Island, NY
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List Drilling a Hole in the Hull

[Thomas Delaney via CnC-List]

Hi listers,

Thanks, everyone, for your advice on the solar charging system and ACR.
Onto the next project!

I'm going to be drilling a hole in the hull to install a
well-above-the-waterline thruhull for a bilge pump discharge hose. The
thruhull is 1 1/8" inch, so I'm going to use a 1 1/4" hole saw drill bit.
I'm going to seal it with 3m 4200. Does this plan make sense? Are there any
surprises to expect?

Thanks,
Tom

 ---
Snow Goose
C 35 Mk I
City Island, NY
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Stus-List genoa cars and tracks - C 30 MK1 1979

[Steven Tattrie via CnC-List]

Hi everyone,

I am investigating putting genoa tracks and cars on my C MK1 1979. I
have a 110 and 150 head sail.

Can folks racing 30's comment on what is the best configuration of tracks
on a 30. Will one long track work verses separate tracks for different
sails? and where on the deck would they be installed? would the 110 be
sheeted inside the shrouds? when they are best used?

I have been searching photos on the internet and found at least half a
dozen different configurations. So I don't think will be an easy decision
on where to locate.

you comments will be appreciated

Steve
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Re: Stus-List Windows Pt 2.

[robert via CnC-List]

mark:

Try these guys.they cut new windows for me and they were a perfect fit.

https://www.mapquest.com/canada/nova-scotia/business-dartmouth/sabic-polymershapes-280937004

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 -84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2017-04-04 5:12 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List wrote:


Anyone know where to get sheets of acrylic in Halifax area?  I've done 
some searching and Piedmont Plastics is the only supplier that seems 
to come up.
I'm waiting on them to get back to me with a price for a 4x8' sheet of 
9mm acrylic  - or even if they have any cut off etc -- but they didn't 
seem like they had any in stock and were unsure about pricing or 
availability.


I got the 3M VHB tape last summer and plan on replacing the 
replacement this spring.


Mark


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 2017-04-04 3:35 PM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List wrote:

http://www.cutplasticsheeting.co.uk/blog/2011/05/08/175/

Gives a good explanation  but its clearer, and harder more 
scratch resistant, and similar properties in all directions.


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List

Sent: Tuesday, April 4, 2017 2:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruce Whitmore 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Windows Pt 2.

Hi Paul,

I don't remember the reason.  Why cast?   What is the other type?

Kindest Regards,

Bruce
847.404.5092

Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.

On Apr 4, 2017, at 2:13 PM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
 wrote:


And be sure its cast ...

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List

Sent: Tuesday, April 4, 2017 2:01 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruce Whitmore 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Windows Pt 2.

Remember to use plexiglass, not Lexan.  Lexan will scratch and craze.

Kindest Regards,

Bruce
847.404.5092

Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.

On Apr 4, 2017, at 12:39 PM, Eric Baumes via CnC-List 
 wrote:


I spoke to a local fabricator about making the windows.

We spoke for a while about the curvature of the windows and whether 
they would have to be thermoformed.


I know the windows curve to match the curve of the cabin top, but 
are they at all curved vertically?


Researching Lexan is seems you can cold bend it as long as the 
radius is 10x the thickness.


For anyone who has done this on a 34/36 or 37/40, were the 
replacement windows flat stock?


Thanks,

Eric
S/V Hee Soo
34/36
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Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Gauge Install

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

NO, not the dreaded foreign car thread again?!   :^)

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Apr 5, 2017, at 7:57 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Geez--this list is starting to sound like a gathering of English sports car 
> buffs (I used to house a classic MG and a Aston-Martin in my large garage 
> with only a single wide door--the door was not a problem since the owners 
> spent so much time fixing their cars, they hardly ever left the garage!).
> 
> Anyhow, for the benefit of the other ignorant list members, can one of you 
> explain the acronyms BSPT, BSPP, etc.? It must have something to do with the 
> British 'heh'?
> 
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> C 36 XL/kcb
> 
> cenel...@aol.com 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List  >
> To: cnc-list >
> Cc: Jake Brodersen >
> Sent: Wed, Apr 5, 2017 6:18 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Gauge Install
> 
> Josh,
>  
> I thought I needed a BSPT street elbow.  The link you sent is for a BSPP 
> street elbow.  The sender is BSPT (tapered threads).  I know the thread pitch 
> is the same, but will the tapered threads seal in a (BSPP) parallel fitting?
>  
> I’ve also seen BSP elbows.  Not sure if they are tapered or parallel.  I need 
> to research British pipe more, I guess.  I did find this one, that looks 
> pretty close.  For $7 it’s probably worth a try.
> https://www.amazon.com/Elbow-Degree-Fitting-Female-Thread/dp/B01M4P10U2/ref=sr_1_16?s=hi=UTF8=1491387086=1-16=BSP+elbow
>  
> 
>  
> I could just go with the VDO sender.  It has a nice pressure gauge and a red 
> low pressure light, but no buzzer.  The buzzer is really needed since I don’t 
> have eyes on the instrument panel all the time.
>  
> Jake
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, April 4, 2017 23:39
> To: C List >
> Cc: Josh Muckley >
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Gauge Install
>  
> Here's a picture of my setup.  Street elbow seems to work but it will be 
> tight-ish with the oil filter. 
>  
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yV05RZGZDMnRhNm8 
> 
>  
> Josh
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Gauge Install

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

Geez--this list is starting to sound like a gathering of English sports car 
buffs (I used to house a classic MG and a Aston-Martin in my large garage with 
only a single wide door--the door was not a problem since the owners spent so 
much time fixing their cars, they hardly ever left the garage!).


Anyhow, for the benefit of the other ignorant list members, can one of you 
explain the acronyms BSPT, BSPP, etc.? It must have something to do with the 
British 'heh'?


Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C 36 XL/kcb


cenel...@aol.com




-Original Message-
From: Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Jake Brodersen 
Sent: Wed, Apr 5, 2017 6:18 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Gauge Install



Josh,
 
I thought I needed a BSPT street elbow.  The link you sent is for a BSPP street 
elbow.  The sender is BSPT (tapered threads).  I know the thread pitch is the 
same, but will the tapered threads seal in a (BSPP) parallel fitting?
 
I’ve also seen BSP elbows.  Not sure if they are tapered or parallel.  I need 
to research British pipe more, I guess.  I did find this one, that looks pretty 
close.  For $7 it’s probably worth a try.
https://www.amazon.com/Elbow-Degree-Fitting-Female-Thread/dp/B01M4P10U2/ref=sr_1_16?s=hi=UTF8=1491387086=1-16=BSP+elbow
 
I could just go with the VDO sender.  It has a nice pressure gauge and a red 
low pressure light, but no buzzer.  The buzzer is really needed since I don’t 
have eyes on the instrument panel all the time.
 
Jake
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 4, 2017 23:39
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Gauge Install
 

Here's a picture of my setup.  Street elbow seems to work but it will be 
tight-ish with the oil filter. 

 

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yV05RZGZDMnRhNm8

 

Josh


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Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Gauge Install

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Could you retap hole?  "GlowShift’s 1/8 NPT Drill and Tap Kit is perfect kit 
for anyone looking to drill and tap directly into the exhaust manifold or 
intake manifold. The featured 1/8 NPT Tap is used for tapping EGT probes and 
boost gauge fitting holes for gauge sensors that will deliver optimum results 
directly from the source. The size R high speed steel drill bit’s overall 
length is 4 3/4 inches with a 118° point that drills the perfect hole to tap 
into. The cobalt finish increases lubricity and chip flow and can be used in 
various applications."

Jerry 
Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 4, 2017, at 11:02 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Use the original sender?
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> j...@dellabarba.com
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jake 
> Brodersen via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2017 9:41 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Jake Brodersen 
> Subject: Stus-List Oil Pressure Gauge Install
>  
> Guys,
>  
> I’ve installed an electric VDO oil pressure gauge, but the sensor install is 
> giving me a bit of a problem.  I bought the tee fitting from eBay, like Josh 
> and several others.  It is listed here:   
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-8-BSPT-Oil-Pressure-Sensor-Tee-to-NPT-Adapter-Turbo-Lexus-Toyota-Subaru-Mazda-/351867602261
>   The only issue I have is that the Yanmar sensor sticks out from the block 
> too far and actually touches the alternator belt.  I would like to install a 
> 90 degree elbow and point the sensor down, which I think would solve my 
> problem.  The problem is finding a compatible product.  It would have to be a 
> male-to-female 90 degree (or 45 degree) elbow with 1/8” BSPT threads on both 
> ends.  I’ve found a number of male-to-male fittings, but that won’t quite 
> work.
>  
> I’ve searched a lot and haven’t found anything that would work.  Has anyone 
> else run into this problem?  I don’t have room to relocated the alternator 
> enough to provide clearance.
>  
> Any ideas?
>  
> Jake
>  
> Jake Brodersen
> C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
> Hampton VA
> 
>  
>  
>  
>  
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Gauge Install

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

There is a picture of my setup on the gallery page of Persistence web site 
http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt The sender is on the top and the gauge is on 
the bottom.

Mike
Persistence
1987 Frers 33
Halifax, NS
Launching very soon!

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 05, 2017 12:39 AM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Gauge Install

Here's a picture of my setup.  Street elbow seems to work but it will be 
tight-ish with the oil filter.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yV05RZGZDMnRhNm8

Josh

On Apr 4, 2017 9:42 PM, "Jake Brodersen via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
Guys,

I’ve installed an electric VDO oil pressure gauge, but the sensor install is 
giving me a bit of a problem.  I bought the tee fitting from eBay, like Josh 
and several others.  It is listed here:   
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-8-BSPT-Oil-Pressure-Sensor-Tee-to-NPT-Adapter-Turbo-Lexus-Toyota-Subaru-Mazda-/351867602261
  The only issue I have is that the Yanmar sensor sticks out from the block too 
far and actually touches the alternator belt.  I would like to install a 90 
degree elbow and point the sensor down, which I think would solve my problem.  
The problem is finding a compatible product.  It would have to be a 
male-to-female 90 degree (or 45 degree) elbow with 1/8” BSPT threads on both 
ends.  I’ve found a number of male-to-male fittings, but that won’t quite work.

I’ve searched a lot and haven’t found anything that would work.  Has anyone 
else run into this problem?  I don’t have room to relocated the alternator 
enough to provide clearance.

Any ideas?

Jake

Jake Brodersen
C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA
[cid:image001.png@01D2ADED.C1E15470]





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Re: Stus-List C 24 Owners Group on Facebook

[BillBinaList via CnC-List]

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1870962993162348/

Bill Bina


On 4/4/2017 10:17 PM, Patrick H. Wesley via CnC-List wrote:


On Tue, Apr 4, 2017 at 11:23 AM Doug Ellmore via CnC-List 
> wrote:


I created a C Owners Group on Facebook.  Share pictures, data,
knowledge on your C 24.

Search "C 24 Owners"

-- 
Doug Ellmore, Sr.

d...@ellmore.net 

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Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Gauge Install

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Josh,

 

I thought I needed a BSPT street elbow.  The link you sent is for a BSPP street 
elbow.  The sender is BSPT (tapered threads).  I know the thread pitch is the 
same, but will the tapered threads seal in a (BSPP) parallel fitting?

 

I’ve also seen BSP elbows.  Not sure if they are tapered or parallel.  I need 
to research British pipe more, I guess.  I did find this one, that looks pretty 
close.  For $7 it’s probably worth a try.

https://www.amazon.com/Elbow-Degree-Fitting-Female-Thread/dp/B01M4P10U2/ref=sr_1_16?s=hi
 

 =UTF8=1491387086=1-16=BSP+elbow

 

I could just go with the VDO sender.  It has a nice pressure gauge and a red 
low pressure light, but no buzzer.  The buzzer is really needed since I don’t 
have eyes on the instrument panel all the time.

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 4, 2017 23:39
To: C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Gauge Install

 

Here's a picture of my setup.  Street elbow seems to work but it will be 
tight-ish with the oil filter. 

 

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yV05RZGZDMnRhNm8

 

Josh

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