Re: Stus-List Advise on cutting fiberglass

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

For enlarging an existing hole, either a router running against a guide, or
my favourite, a 2" sanding drum chucked in a drill. With 80 grit sleeves it
will cut scary quick, with 120 grit you get fast and controlled grinding
without chipping the gel coat. A shop vac is very handy to catch the debris
otherwise it gets everywhere.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 8 April 2017 at 21:07, svpegasus38 via CnC-List 
wrote:

> A friend in the plastic/fibreglass industry uses tools for cutting ceramic
> tile. I tried them and they work great. Just go slow so as not to over heat
> the cutting edge.
>
>
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
> Doug Mountjoy
> POYC
> Pegasus
> Lf38
>
>  Original message 
> From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
> Date: 4/8/17 20:58 (GMT-08:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Rick Brass 
> Subject: Stus-List Advise on cutting fiberglass
>
> As background, I installed an opening port on Imzadi to replace a fixed
> aluminum framed portlight, and it didn’t go to my expectations. I had to
> expand the existing opening by a small margin, and decided that I could use
> my handy dandy Dremel tool to cut the fiberglass laminate. But the cut I
> got was far from smooth and straight. So I decided I’d put off installing
> the other three ports until I figured out a better way of doing it.
>
>
>
> I have three current projects that will require me to cut laminate:
> additional opening ports, removing the inner skin on the cockpit locker
> covers so I can replace rotted core, and making a propane locker. So my
> question is: What would be the best tool for getting smooth straight cuts
> in fiberglass laminate?
>
>
>
> A friend in the boat repair business will loan me his Rotozip, but I’m not
> confident that I would get better cuts that I did on the window opening
> (operator error, I freely admit).
>
>
>
> Dremel (among others) makes a mini circular saw that looks almost ideal
> for making shallow, straight cuts. But corners might be a problem.
>
>
>
> A vibrating multi-tool (I still think of it as a Fein tool) seems like a
> real possibility, plus having a lot of uses on other projects. But I’m not
> sure how well it will cut fiberglass.
>
>
>
> You guys are the experts. What tool should I buy (or borrow)?
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> *Imzadi  *C 38 mk 2
>
> *la Belle Aurore *C 25 mk1
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Advise on cutting fiberglass

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

A friend in the plastic/fibreglass industry uses tools for cutting ceramic 
tile. I tried them and they work great. Just go slow so as not to over heat the 
cutting edge. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 
 Original message From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
 Date: 4/8/17  20:58  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rick Brass  Subject: 
Stus-List Advise on cutting fiberglass 
As background, I installed an opening port on Imzadi to replace a fixed 
aluminum framed portlight, and it didn’t go to my expectations. I had to expand 
the existing opening by a small margin, and decided that I could use my handy 
dandy Dremel tool to cut the fiberglass laminate. But the cut I got was far 
from smooth and straight. So I decided I’d put off installing the other three 
ports until I figured out a better way of doing it. I have three current 
projects that will require me to cut laminate: additional opening ports, 
removing the inner skin on the cockpit locker covers so I can replace rotted 
core, and making a propane locker. So my question is: What would be the best 
tool for getting smooth straight cuts in fiberglass laminate? A friend in the 
boat repair business will loan me his Rotozip, but I’m not confident that I 
would get better cuts that I did on the window opening (operator error, I 
freely admit). Dremel (among others) makes a mini circular saw that looks 
almost ideal for making shallow, straight cuts. But corners might be a problem. 
A vibrating multi-tool (I still think of it as a Fein tool) seems like a real 
possibility, plus having a lot of uses on other projects. But I’m not sure how 
well it will cut fiberglass. You guys are the experts. What tool should I buy 
(or borrow)? Rick BrassImzadi  C 38 mk 2la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1Washington, 
NC ___

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Stus-List Advise on cutting fiberglass

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

As background, I installed an opening port on Imzadi to replace a fixed
aluminum framed portlight, and it didn't go to my expectations. I had to
expand the existing opening by a small margin, and decided that I could use
my handy dandy Dremel tool to cut the fiberglass laminate. But the cut I got
was far from smooth and straight. So I decided I'd put off installing the
other three ports until I figured out a better way of doing it.

 

I have three current projects that will require me to cut laminate:
additional opening ports, removing the inner skin on the cockpit locker
covers so I can replace rotted core, and making a propane locker. So my
question is: What would be the best tool for getting smooth straight cuts in
fiberglass laminate?

 

A friend in the boat repair business will loan me his Rotozip, but I'm not
confident that I would get better cuts that I did on the window opening
(operator error, I freely admit).

 

Dremel (among others) makes a mini circular saw that looks almost ideal for
making shallow, straight cuts. But corners might be a problem.

 

A vibrating multi-tool (I still think of it as a Fein tool) seems like a
real possibility, plus having a lot of uses on other projects. But I'm not
sure how well it will cut fiberglass.

 

You guys are the experts. What tool should I buy (or borrow)?

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

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Re: Stus-List Transducer help; now electrical question for Fred

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Matt,

There is a general idea that the 1-2-Both switch can lead to operator error 
(switching to off, when the alternator is running, which quite likely would fry 
the alternator diodes). Therefore the better setup is to have the house battery 
bank tied directly to the alternator and have the starting battery charged by 
an ACR or an Echo-Charger. This provides the protection from user error and 
gives the priority to charging the house bank that supposedly is the one that 
gets discharged deeper (hence it needs more charge). The starting battery is 
much smaller, and needs much less charge. This also provides you with a peace 
of mind  - you should never discharge the starting battery by using any 
on-board systems.

The second point is that you are much better off having a single large house 
bank (vs. a split one). A larger (combined) bank should last longer (you would 
less likely discharge it below the safe level) and would provide a higher real 
capacity (Peukert is your enemy here).

Keep in mind that a larger bank may need a larger alternator or bigger charger, 
but you would need them regardless.

Marek
1994 C270 “Legato”
Ottawa, ON

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew L. 
Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2017 14:46
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Transducer help; now electrical question for Fred

A friend of mine recently expressed the view that the house batteries should 
simply be tied in without the selector switch so that they are both being used 
at the same time.  What say you?

Matt

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Stus-List 37+ 12v wiring

[Len Mitchell via CnC-List]

Bruce, do you have a wiring diagram for your boat in the owners manual? Mine is 
1989 but I can scan and send you a diagram and maybe you can compare to the 94 
version wiring. All mine comes up by the battery selector switch and then 
crosses to the batteries. They will all be different depending on components. 
Len

Sent from my iPad

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Re: Stus-List 1994 C 37/40+ Where do 12v wires go?

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Bruce,

Not sure exactly -- did it all myself. There was 4-Gauge cable, ends, a hammer 
crimper, solder, a Blue Seas battery switch, a BLue Seas AC panel, a Blue Seas 
ACR, some bus bars, an inverter, a charger, other wires and connectors, and a 
bunch of Trojan 6v golf cart flooded batteries. 

Oh yeah, and a few ounces of blood here and there from the knuckles. 

This list was beyond value doing the project. These guys really know their 
stuff. Especially, when it comes to the 37+s, people like Josh Muckley and Obi 
Wan Ken Heaton have added unmeasurable support and knowledge. 

There were a few things here and there that I absolutely hated about my boat. 
Thanks to this list, I got the guidance to make the modifications I needed to 
thoroughly enjoy the Enterprise. 

Best,

Edd




On Apr 8, 2017, at 4:38 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List  
wrote:

Thanks Edd,

Unfortunately, I'm not seeing the same setup.  Oh well, I'll just keep looking. 
 Do you mind if I ask, how much did the rewiring cost you?

Kindest Regards,

Bruce
847.404.5092

Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.

> On Apr 8, 2017, at 3:59 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Bruce,
> 
> On mine, before the total rewire a few years ago, they ran inside that wall 
> supporting the nav station (my boat had a little access hatch there), then 
> under the floor, then to breaker on the back of the battery switch, which 
> used to be under the nav station seating. 
> 
> I don't know if that was the original plan or just some creative work by the 
> previous owner. 
> 
> This was one of the reasons I did the rewire, including migrating from a 
> 1,2,ALL system to a House/Engine system. 
> 
> Good luck. 
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> ---
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> NCC-1701-B
> C 37+ | City Island, NY
> www.StarshipSailing.com
> ---
> 914.332.4400  | Office
> 914.774.9767  | Mobile
> ---
> Sent via iPhone 7
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
> 
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Re: Stus-List 1994 C 37/40+ Where do 12v wires go?

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Thanks Edd,

Unfortunately, I'm not seeing the same setup.  Oh well, I'll just keep looking. 
 Do you mind if I ask, how much did the rewiring cost you?

Kindest Regards,

Bruce
847.404.5092

Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.

> On Apr 8, 2017, at 3:59 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Bruce,
> 
> On mine, before the total rewire a few years ago, they ran inside that wall 
> supporting the nav station (my boat had a little access hatch there), then 
> under the floor, then to breaker on the back of the battery switch, which 
> used to be under the nav station seating. 
> 
> I don't know if that was the original plan or just some creative work by the 
> previous owner. 
> 
> This was one of the reasons I did the rewire, including migrating from a 
> 1,2,ALL system to a House/Engine system. 
> 
> Good luck. 
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd
> 
> ---
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> NCC-1701-B
> C 37+ | City Island, NY
> www.StarshipSailing.com
> ---
> 914.332.4400  | Office
> 914.774.9767  | Mobile
> ---
> Sent via iPhone 7
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
> 
> On Apr 8, 2017, at 2:35 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> The wires leading out of 1 batty charger show 1.05 volts and the the smart 
> charger is not charging the #2 battery bank.  The wire lead down under the 
> nav desk and disappears.  Yet, only large battery cable are connected to the 
> batteries.  Same thing with the back of the battery switch.  Where do the 
> battery charger wires lead to?  
> 
> Kindest Regards,
> 
> Bruce
> 847.404.5092
> 
> Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 1994 C 37/40+ Where do 12v wires go?

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Bruce,

On mine, before the total rewire a few years ago, they ran inside that wall 
supporting the nav station (my boat had a little access hatch there), then 
under the floor, then to breaker on the back of the battery switch, which used 
to be under the nav station seating. 

I don't know if that was the original plan or just some creative work by the 
previous owner. 

This was one of the reasons I did the rewire, including migrating from a 
1,2,ALL system to a House/Engine system. 

Good luck. 


All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
C 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.332.4400  | Office
914.774.9767  | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 7
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize

On Apr 8, 2017, at 2:35 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hello all,

The wires leading out of 1 batty charger show 1.05 volts and the the smart 
charger is not charging the #2 battery bank.  The wire lead down under the nav 
desk and disappears.  Yet, only large battery cable are connected to the 
batteries.  Same thing with the back of the battery switch.  Where do the 
battery charger wires lead to?  

Kindest Regards,

Bruce
847.404.5092

Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Transducer help; now electrical question for Fred

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Fred:

I was not aware of your expertise (although your insightful comments 
indicate specialized knowledge).  Question for you:

I am planning to install the same DC switch on my 42 that I had installed 
on my 34.  It is a Blue Sea System switch that separates the starting battery 
from the two house batteries, but allows for an emergency crossover.  On my old 
boat, the house batteries were also wired into the existing 1-2-all selector 
switch so that I continued to the existing switch to control which house 
battery was being used.  A friend of mine recently expressed the view that the 
house batteries should simply be tied in without the selector switch so that 
they are both being used at the same time.  What say you?

Matt

From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2017 1:40 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Frederick G Street 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Transducer help

Hello, Tom, and welcome to the list!  My first boat was a 1981 30mkI, hull 
#677; wow, a 12” plotter is going to be huge on that boat!  I’ve got a 7” on my 
Landfall 38…   :^) 

Your existing instruments probably are Signet; but they can’t be networked with 
the eS Series, which requires NMEA2000 or SeaTalkNG to get the data in from 
instruments.  In order to have data both on gauges and the eS, you’d need to 
replace your instruments with networkable ones.  In the Raymarine world, this 
would most likely be the i70 Series for color LCD gauges; or the i50/i60 Series 
for the more traditional mechanical gauges.  The i50/i60 are basically locked 
into displaying one type of data; on the i70, you can display speed, depth and 
wind data simultaneously on one or more displays, as well as the data being 
made available to the eS.

If it were up to me on my boat, I’d fill in the holes for the Signets, and put 
in one of the i70 Sailpack systems that comes with a combo depth/speed/temp 
transducer and a masthead wind transducer.  Put the i70 in the bulkhead where 
one of the Signets used to be, and run the network to the plotter.

Since you’re new to the list, let me mention that in a former life, I was an 
NMEA/ABYC-certified marine electrician and electronics guy.  I’ve kept my 
vendor relationships, and can purchase equipment for C at very 
reasonable prices, as well as offer design assistance.

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

  On Apr 7, 2017, at 12:06 PM, T power via CnC-List  
wrote:

  Hi all,

  First off, I'm really new to sailing so there is a steep learning curve for 
me. 
  I own a C 30 MKI that currently has a depth, speed, and wind gauges, they 
are round, I think they are made by signet?? I have a new Raymarine eS128 Chart 
plotter that I would like to install. I have no idea what transducers to 
install, deadrise, etc. I would like to end up using the original gauges, and 
also have speed, depth, and wind on the chart plotter.

  Any help would be very much appreciated.

  Cheers,
  Tom

  Sent from Outlook
  ___

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to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

  All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




___

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___

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Stus-List 1994 C 37/40+ Where do 12v wires go?

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all,

The wires leading out of 1 batty charger show 1.05 volts and the the smart 
charger is not charging the #2 battery bank.  The wire lead down under the nav 
desk and disappears.  Yet, only large battery cable are connected to the 
batteries.  Same thing with the back of the battery switch.  Where do the 
battery charger wires lead to?  

Kindest Regards,

Bruce
847.404.5092

Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Transducer help

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Ugh!

On Apr 8, 2017 1:16 PM, "Frederick G Street via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Josh — the original instruments on most all of our boats were standalone
> single-purpose instruments; the transducers connected directly to them, and
> they did NOT network at all.  Signet, Moor and EMS are brands which come to
> mind.
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Apr 7, 2017, at 8:46 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> My limited experience with the actual electronics of instrument packages
> is my DataMarine Offshore Link.  All the instruments feed into a head unit
> and the head unit outputs to display units.  The head also outputs/inputs 2
> different NMEA 0183 channels.  Excuse my ignorance but isn't this more or
> less normal?  With an 0183 data stream you can input that to just about
> anything you want.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Transducer help

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Josh — the original instruments on most all of our boats were standalone 
single-purpose instruments; the transducers connected directly to them, and 
they did NOT network at all.  Signet, Moor and EMS are brands which come to 
mind.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Apr 7, 2017, at 8:46 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> My limited experience with the actual electronics of instrument packages is 
> my DataMarine Offshore Link.  All the instruments feed into a head unit and 
> the head unit outputs to display units.  The head also outputs/inputs 2 
> different NMEA 0183 channels.  Excuse my ignorance but isn't this more or 
> less normal?  With an 0183 data stream you can input that to just about 
> anything you want.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD

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Re: Stus-List Barient 22ST - now Documentation

[RANDY via CnC-List]

I just last night followed the advice in the BoatUS press release, and filed a 
complaint with the USPS Inspector General, even though it's been two months 
since I got suckered. Made sense, since this fraud started with a piece of 
mail. I'd previously filed complaints with the BBB, Department of Commerce, and 
USCG NVDC, but don't think those had much impact. I'm still pissed that there 
are assholes out there in the world doing this kind of shit, while owning fancy 
cars and claiming to be Christian according to their Facebook profiles. 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford"  
Sent: Saturday, April 8, 2017 7:01:56 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Barient 22ST - now Documentation 

I sent a copy of my letter to the FBI about a month ago. Haven’t heard 
anything, but I can’t imagine that this is a priority. 
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2017 9:19 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Barient 22ST - now Documentation 


I got my renewal letter from the USCG yesterday. And got a letter from some 
documentation renewal site about 10 days ago. 



And today I saw a press release from Boat/US about documentation fraud. They 
are apparently getting a lot of complaints from members about the various 
documentation renewal companies, and the release indicates that some of the 
examples of letters and websites that they have been provided have no 
disclaimer to indicate they are not affiliated with USCG and that some of the 
letters and sites are virtually identical to the real USCG notification. 



Boat/US is telling boaters to contact the Boat/US fraud division, the Attorney 
General in your home state, and the Postal Inspector at your local Post Office. 



Rick Brass 

Washington, NC 








From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2017 3:33 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Bill Coleman  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Barient 22ST 




On another note, I am glad some people here mentioned the Scammers trying to 
fool us into renewing USCG Documentation for $75, I got one and darn near fell 
for it till I saw the $75, which jogged my memory and I threw it out. 



Bill Coleman 

C 39 Erie, PA 





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___ 

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Re: Stus-List Barient Winch Servicing -- Best Tool?

[john sandford via CnC-List]

Me too. Works fine and there is not another tool to lose.

John

L38

 

From: ALAN BERGEN [mailto:trya...@alumni.usc.edu] 
Sent: April-08-17 12:27 AM
To: C
Subject: Re: Stus-List Barient Winch Servicing -- Best Tool?

 

I put a machine screw in each hole (they don't have to screw in), and turn the 
ring with a winch handle between the two screws.

Alan Bergen

 

On Fri, Apr 7, 2017 at 8:06 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
wrote:

The cog set on the rear wheel of a bicycle is held on with the same sort of 
retaining ring, and removed with a “special tool”.

 

A local bike shop will have a spanner with the handle made from a long “U” of 
heavy wire with 2 pins to engage the holes. I don’t know what they cost these 
days, my old one was maybe $5, and it has been repurposed into the winch 
service kit.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

On Fri, Apr 7, 2017 at 3:15 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Listers,

 

For those of you with Barient Winches on their C, what is the best tool to 
use to unscrew that top ring? 

 

See; http://www.saillistings.com/images/2014/10/02/323/barient-32-winch_2.jpg 

  

 

What works best in those two holes on either side of winch handle entry? 

 

2017 C 

  Northeast Rendezvous "Movie Trailer"


All the best,

 

Edd

 

 

Edd M. Schillay

Starship Enterprise

C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B

City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 

 

 

 

 


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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

 


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https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray 

 
=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=I1XgrPWtM496u4KNsu4XdhXFfmexVUIuB0Nk_EfZrsk=Vw3PYWMyb8YTaDBKjcUP7r4UsR6NSy0HCnIJKzMHb_A=

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




-- 

Alan Bergen

35 Mk III Thirsty

Rose City YC

Portland, OR

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Re: Stus-List Barient 22ST - now Documentation

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

I sent a copy of my letter to the FBI about a month ago.  Haven’t heard 
anything, but I can’t imagine that this is a priority.

From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2017 9:19 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Barient 22ST - now Documentation

I got my renewal letter from the USCG yesterday. And got a letter from some 
documentation renewal site about 10 days ago.

 

And today I saw a press release from Boat/US about documentation fraud. They 
are apparently getting a lot of complaints from members about the various 
documentation renewal companies, and the release indicates that some of the 
examples of letters and websites that they have been provided have no 
disclaimer to indicate they are not affiliated with USCG and that some of the 
letters and sites are virtually identical to the real USCG notification.

 

Boat/US is telling boaters to contact the Boat/US fraud division, the Attorney 
General in your home state, and the Postal Inspector at your local Post Office.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2017 3:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Barient 22ST

 

On another note, I am glad some people here  mentioned the Scammers trying to 
fool us into renewing USCG Documentation for $75, I got one and darn near fell 
for it till I saw the $75, which jogged my memory and I threw it out.

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

 




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Re: Stus-List Barient Winch Servicing -- Best Tool?

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Pin wrench.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2017-04-08 12:06 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:
The cog set on the rear wheel of a bicycle is held on with the same sort of 
retaining ring, and removed with a “special tool”.

A local bike shop will have a spanner with the handle made from a long “U” of 
heavy wire with 2 pins to engage the holes. I don’t know what they cost these 
days, my old one was maybe $5, and it has been repurposed into the winch 
service kit.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC



On Fri, Apr 7, 2017 at 3:15 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Listers,

For those of you with Barient Winches on their C, what is the best tool to 
use to unscrew that top ring?

See; http://www.saillistings.com/images/2014/10/02/323/barient-32-winch_2.jpg

What works best in those two holes on either side of winch handle entry?

2017 C Northeast Rendezvous "Movie 
Trailer"

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log




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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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Re: Stus-List Wind instrument

[BillBinaList via CnC-List]

I spent several seasons repairing my ws150 transducer and then having it 
quit again a couple months into the season. Between that and the issues 
of cleaning the fouled depth transducer, and sometimes flakey depth 
readings, I finally replaced the wind, speed and depth with a package 
from Raymarine. The only thing I did "off the script" was to have 
Defender substitute the housing for the depth with one that made it 
removable for cleaning just like the speed transducer. Boy do I wish I 
had done this a few years earlier! I think the whole package was around 
$1400. Not the newest top of the line, but everything is rock solid. 3 
dedicated displays that are easier to read for these old eyes, as well.


Bill Bina


On 4/7/2017 8:58 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List wrote:


Asking for some collective wisdom to repair or replace the masthead 
transducer of my Standard Horizon WS 150 unit.  Wind speed is fine, 
but direction read outs are erratic.  Very certain the issue is the 
masthead transducer (5 pin). Suspect the magnet pickups are failing


Has been out of production for > 10 years.  Design was picked up by 
Navman and Navico but now discontinued.  Got a Navman 3100 masthead 
unit brand new that supposedly was a comparable item but does not work 
for close hauled.  Magnet orientation is quite different.  If anyone 
has a NAVMAN system this unit is available.


Hate to have to replace the unit due to effort involved and have 
matching units for depth and speed that work just fine.  No luck on 
flea bay or consignment shops for a direct replacement.


One suggestion was to try one the new Airmar WX series transducers for 
NMEA 2000


Any thoughts??

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT



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Re: Stus-List Wind instrument

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Hi Josh

 

Ebay usually works but not in this case.  There are some parts available from 
San Francisco but the seller is offering no returns, is selling as is with no 
representation if they work and the price is comparable to a new Raymarine or 
the like.  OEM has no parts.  Same for distributors.  Have tried many local / 
regional electronics shops no luck.  All indicate the parts are not repairable. 
 Can you advise your repair guy contact info and I will contact him.

 

Many thanks

 

John & Maryann

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2017 9:16 PM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wind instrument

 

I was shocked when my marine repair guy told me that there were rebuild kits 
for my wind instrument.  It's a DataMarine Offshore Link Series III from the 
90's.  The point being that I don't believe this was a particularly popular or 
long lived product yet parts are available.  You might be surprised too.

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

 

 

 

On Apr 7, 2017 8:59 PM, "John and Maryann Read via CnC-List" 
 wrote:

Asking for some collective wisdom to repair or replace the masthead transducer 
of my Standard Horizon WS 150 unit.  Wind speed is fine, but direction read 
outs are erratic.  Very certain the issue is the masthead transducer (5 pin). 
Suspect the magnet pickups are failing

 

Has been out of production for > 10 years.  Design was picked up by Navman and 
Navico but now discontinued.  Got a Navman 3100 masthead unit brand new that 
supposedly was a comparable item but does not work for close hauled.  Magnet 
orientation is quite different.  If anyone has a NAVMAN system this unit is 
available.

 

Hate to have to replace the unit due to effort involved and have matching units 
for depth and speed that work just fine.  No luck on flea bay or consignment 
shops for a direct replacement.

 

One suggestion was to try one the new Airmar WX series transducers for NMEA 2000

 

Any thoughts??

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT


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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Barient Winch Servicing -- Best Tool?

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Try a gas cap wrench.
Joel
On Fri, Apr 7, 2017 at 11:27 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I put a machine screw in each hole (they don't have to screw in), and turn
> the ring with a winch handle between the two screws.
>
> Alan Bergen
>
> On Fri, Apr 7, 2017 at 8:06 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> The cog set on the rear wheel of a bicycle is held on with the same sort
> of retaining ring, and removed with a “special tool”.
>
>
>
> A local bike shop will have a spanner with the handle made from a long “U”
> of heavy wire with 2 pins to engage the holes. I don’t know what they cost
> these days, my old one was maybe $5, and it has been repurposed into the
> winch service kit.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Fri, Apr 7, 2017 at 3:15 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
>
>
> For those of you with Barient Winches on their C, what is the best tool
> to use to unscrew that top ring?
>
>
>
> See;
> http://www.saillistings.com/images/2014/10/02/323/barient-32-winch_2.jpg
> 
>
>
>
>
> What works best in those two holes on either side of winch handle entry?
>
>
>
> 2017 C Northeast Rendezvous "Movie Trailer"
> 
>
>
> All the best,
>
>
>
> Edd
>
>
>
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
>
> Starship Enterprise
>
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>
> City Island, NY
>
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=I1XgrPWtM496u4KNsu4XdhXFfmexVUIuB0Nk_EfZrsk=Vw3PYWMyb8YTaDBKjcUP7r4UsR6NSy0HCnIJKzMHb_A=
>
>
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
>
> --
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Transducer help

[T power via CnC-List]

Wow, Thanks for all the reply's and the welcome. Thanks Fred for the great 
explanation. I think the best option will be to purchase a new gauge pack. I'll 
let everyone know how it goes.



Sent from Outlook

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, April 7, 2017 10:46:27 PM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Transducer help

My limited experience with the actual electronics of instrument packages is my 
DataMarine Offshore Link.  All the instruments feed into a head unit and the 
head unit outputs to display units.  The head also outputs/inputs 2 different 
NMEA 0183 channels.  Excuse my ignorance but isn't this more or less normal?  
With an 0183 data stream you can input that to just about anything you want.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Apr 7, 2017 3:08 PM, "Frederick G Street via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
Chuck — that might work for the paddlewheel, but the impedances will be all 
wrong for the depth and wind transducers, and you’ll also have two sources for 
the depth transducer (Signet instrument and ITC-5) fighting each other.  Also, 
the Signet wind transducer is a different transducer from the Raymarine; the 
thing is wired a bit differently, so the results might be a bit erratic, to say 
the least.  You can’t really parallel or “Y” something like a depth transducer 
to two different destinations, as it’s not made for that.  You can have either 
the display head run the depth or the ITC-5 run it; not both.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Apr 7, 2017, at 1:19 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
> wrote:

Fred,
Would he be able to run the Signet Transducers through a Raymarine ITC-5 Analog 
transducer converter?  I thought that most analog transducers were rebranded 
Airmar units but does that only apply to more recent transducers and not to the 
older Signet units?  At some point I was hoping to upgrade the analog 
Datamarine Speed and Depth units on Half Magic (1983 LF 35) to chat with my 
ES75 MFD via an I70S and ITC-5, but it is sounding as if my analog transducers 
may not be able to accomplish this even with the ITC-5.  Same issues as Tom but 
with Datamarine rather than Signet.
Cheers,
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 LF 35
Padanaram, MA


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Re: Stus-List Second bilge pump

[T power via CnC-List]

Hi Gary,

The current bilge pump is a rule 800 with a float switch, I'm away from the 
boat but it is pretty much in the middle of bilge access area


Sent from Outlook

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Gary Nylander via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, April 7, 2017 2:15:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gary Nylander
Subject: Re: Stus-List Second bilge pump

What kind of bilge pump do you have now? And where is it? My 30-1 had an 
original equipment Whale Gusher hand pump with a 1 ½ inch hose going to the 
mast area of the bilge and the exit hose exiting out of the port side just 
under the rub rail in the area near the winch. I added an electric pump in the 
lowest part of the bilge with the hose running back to be next to the other one.

Gary
1980 - #593

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of T power via 
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 7, 2017 12:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: T power 
Subject: Stus-List Second bilge pump


Hello everyone,

I own a 1973 C 30 MKI which I'm looking for some advise. I currently have one 
bilge pump, I would like to install a second pump, looking for advice on size 
to install.

Thanks,

Tom


Sent from Outlook
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