Stus-List CNCRDV

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

The Pacific Northwest (Southwest) Rendezveous is set for the weekend 
of August 11-13 at Telegraph Harbor, Thetis Island, BC.  The web site 
has been moved to its permanent (until it moves again) location at 
www.cncrdv.org


There is a transition of hosts this year so things may get a little 
bumpy for a bit, but we are doing this and I hope all of you BC and 
WA C'ers can make it this year!


More info as it becomes avaiable!

Tom B

Tom Buscaglia
SV Alera
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com
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Re: Stus-List Icebox conversion...

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I installed an Isotherm Compact Classic GE 150 in my ice box a few years
ago.  I put the compressor in the locker next to the stove (under the
seat).  I drilled a hole in the forward side of the ice box, and injected
foam in the space for extra insulation.  I also cut a piece of two-inch
closed cell foam and glued it to the underside of the top of the ice box.
I can send you pictures, If you'd like.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Mon, Apr 17, 2017 at 6:47 PM, Chuck Saur via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I recall discussion about this, but could not find the thread.
>
> I'm looking into icebox conversion for spring, and wondering if anyone has
> recommendations?  Not sure the advantages with water-cooled v. fan cooled,
> except the heat buildup in the locker with compressor heated air.  Other
> considerations?  Reliability? The obvious loss of valuable space in box for
> cold plate...etc?  single v. dual power? (12 volt or 12/120 volt).  Would
> really appreciate comment, and/or link to previous topic discussion.
> Thanks...
>
>
> *Chuck Saur*
> *C 35-3 (1985)*
>
> *Morning Sky*
>
> (517)-490-5926
>
> ___
>
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>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List Icebox conversion...

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Chuck,

After considering an Isotherm selfpumping water cooled unit for years, I
finally opted for an air cooled unit.  Mounted the compressor in a cockpit
locker.  Works well down here in the brutal Louisiana summers.  The locker
is big enough that I really don't notice any significant build up of heat
in it.  Last time I checked, the thermometer showed the temperature was a
steady 37F in the box.

The pictures and write up of the install can be found here:

http://cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/refrigeration

As a side note, the Admiral found this really nice digital thermometer at
Walmart.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Taylor-Digital-Refrigerator-and-Freezer-Thermometer/17785564

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Apr 17, 2017 at 8:47 PM, Chuck Saur via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I recall discussion about this, but could not find the thread.
>
> I'm looking into icebox conversion for spring, and wondering if anyone has
> recommendations?  Not sure the advantages with water-cooled v. fan cooled,
> except the heat buildup in the locker with compressor heated air.  Other
> considerations?  Reliability? The obvious loss of valuable space in box for
> cold plate...etc?  single v. dual power? (12 volt or 12/120 volt).  Would
> really appreciate comment, and/or link to previous topic discussion.
> Thanks...
>
>
> *Chuck Saur*
> *C 35-3 (1985)*
>
> *Morning Sky*
>
> (517)-490-5926 <(517)%20490-5926>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Icebox conversion...

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Did an air cooled 12 volt system. Worked great. I put the compressor in the
lazarette.

Joel
Former 35/3

On Mon, Apr 17, 2017 at 9:48 PM Chuck Saur via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I recall discussion about this, but could not find the thread.
>
> I'm looking into icebox conversion for spring, and wondering if anyone has
> recommendations?  Not sure the advantages with water-cooled v. fan cooled,
> except the heat buildup in the locker with compressor heated air.  Other
> considerations?  Reliability? The obvious loss of valuable space in box for
> cold plate...etc?  single v. dual power? (12 volt or 12/120 volt).  Would
> really appreciate comment, and/or link to previous topic discussion.
> Thanks...
>
>
> *Chuck Saur*
> *C 35-3 (1985)*
>
> *Morning Sky*
>
> (517)-490-5926
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Stus-List Icebox conversion...

[Chuck Saur via CnC-List]

I recall discussion about this, but could not find the thread.

I'm looking into icebox conversion for spring, and wondering if anyone has
recommendations?  Not sure the advantages with water-cooled v. fan cooled,
except the heat buildup in the locker with compressor heated air.  Other
considerations?  Reliability? The obvious loss of valuable space in box for
cold plate...etc?  single v. dual power? (12 volt or 12/120 volt).  Would
really appreciate comment, and/or link to previous topic discussion.
Thanks...


*Chuck Saur*
*C 35-3 (1985)*

*Morning Sky*

(517)-490-5926
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Re: Stus-List Toilet Replacement Mounting question

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

That was $20 for a package of 10. 

¼” x 2” zinc plated (which was what was OEM on my 25) are $1.24 for a package 
of 2 at Lowes. 

5/16” x 2” stainless at $17 for a pack of 15  at Lowes - almost enough for 4 
boats.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edward 
Levert via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2017 10:21 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edward Levert 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Toilet Replacement Mounting question

 

Kevin:

 

Rather than the hanger bolts shown at Home Depot at $20 each, 

 

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Re: Stus-List Toilet Replacement Mounting question

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Bruce, thanks for that tidbit of info. I am up grading to a LF39 that 2 jabsco 
heads. My 38LF has the Raritan head. Was not looking forward to the $800 
upgrade cost for both heads. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 
 Original message From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
 Date: 4/17/17  15:54  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bruce Whitmore  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Toilet Replacement Mounting question 
Just FYI for your consideration, Raritan makes a pump kit that can be used with 
the existing bowl, and it is way cheaper than a new Raritan head.  On our old 
C 27, I replaced our Jabsco with a Raritan, and really felt that their pump 
and lever design was better than the up-and-down pump of the Jabsco.  Now that 
we've upgraded boats, our '94 C 37/40+ has a Jabsco, and when it comes time 
for an overhaul, I think I'll convert it to a Raritan with the pump kit.  
 Just my $.02 worth, 

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net




   From: Kevin Paxton via CnC-List 
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Cc: Kevin Paxton 
 Sent: Monday, April 17, 2017 8:34 AM
 Subject: Stus-List Toilet Replacement Mounting question
   
Hey everyone,I'm going to be replacing the toilet on our 34 in the next week or 
so. Last time I was down there I was looking at how it's mounted and noticed 
that it's up on a little platform and looks like there are thru-bolts holding 
it in place. I'm assuming that there is then a bolt on the underside that I 
will need to try and hold in place to loosen and tighten. I can't seem to 
figure out how to get under there though? I've thought that maybe the wall 
panel towards the v-berth comes off, but haven't tried it yet. Typically when I 
do something like that, something breaks and I'd prefer not to break something 
if I don't have to. :-)
Any ideas on how to get to the underside of that platform for mounting a new 
toilet to it?
Also, if I need to drill new holes for the new toilet, should I fill the old 
holes? If so, with what?
Thanks,
Kevin Paxton'82 34 #473Japhys SpiritCornfield Creek, Pasadena, 
MD___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Traveler Bolts 33MK2

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

They are accessible thru the liner in the cabin, over the sink and engine cover 
...

Get Outlook for iOS

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Lee Rosenbaum via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2017 11:41:14 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Lee Rosenbaum
Subject: Stus-List Traveler Bolts 33MK2

I want to remove the traveler on a 33MK2 and can't find a way to get at the 
bolts in the middle of the boat (both ends are easy)
It is located in the cockpit in front of the companion way.  When I look 
underneath, it looks completely walled in.

Thanks,
Lee Rosenbaum
Kookaburra 33MK2
Kenosha, WI
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Re: Stus-List Toilet Replacement Mounting question

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Just FYI for your consideration, Raritan makes a pump kit that can be used with 
the existing bowl, and it is way cheaper than a new Raritan head.  On our old 
C 27, I replaced our Jabsco with a Raritan, and really felt that their pump 
and lever design was better than the up-and-down pump of the Jabsco.  Now that 
we've upgraded boats, our '94 C 37/40+ has a Jabsco, and when it comes time 
for an overhaul, I think I'll convert it to a Raritan with the pump kit.  
 Just my $.02 worth, 

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


   

   From: Kevin Paxton via CnC-List 
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Cc: Kevin Paxton 
 Sent: Monday, April 17, 2017 8:34 AM
 Subject: Stus-List Toilet Replacement Mounting question
  
Hey everyone,I'm going to be replacing the toilet on our 34 in the next week or 
so. Last time I was down there I was looking at how it's mounted and noticed 
that it's up on a little platform and looks like there are thru-bolts holding 
it in place. I'm assuming that there is then a bolt on the underside that I 
will need to try and hold in place to loosen and tighten. I can't seem to 
figure out how to get under there though? I've thought that maybe the wall 
panel towards the v-berth comes off, but haven't tried it yet. Typically when I 
do something like that, something breaks and I'd prefer not to break something 
if I don't have to. :-)
Any ideas on how to get to the underside of that platform for mounting a new 
toilet to it?
Also, if I need to drill new holes for the new toilet, should I fill the old 
holes? If so, with what?
Thanks,
Kevin Paxton'82 34 #473Japhys SpiritCornfield Creek, Pasadena, 
MD___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


   ___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Toilet Replacement Mounting question

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Kevin:

Before purchasing the new head, I measured and measured the available
space. I made the purchase of the larger bowl when I was satisfied it would
fit. Out of the box, the head had it pump on the right side facing the
head, same as the head I was removing. I got the new one screwed to the
base and plumbed. Only then when I put the toilet seat on did I find out
that the angled side wall prevented the seat from raising. After worrying
what to do with the new head, I had the idea to switch the pump to the
other side, an easy chore. Luckily it all fit. The moral is to see how it
fits, seat included, before you start drilling.

On Mon, Apr 17, 2017 at 9:58 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ed,
> I got the Jabsco compact and was actually concerned about the size of it
> as well. I'm debating on switching the side of the pump as well. Did it
> gain you that much room?
>
> On Mon, Apr 17, 2017 at 10:21 AM Edward Levert 
> wrote:
>
>> Kevin:
>>
>> I recently replaced the head on my "81 C 34. Rather than the hanger
>> bolts shown at Home Depot at $20 each, I used lag screws. Much cheaper.
>> Also, I was able to fit a large bowl Jabsco into the head compartment by
>> reversing the pump to the left side of the head. Otherwise, the angled wall
>> forward of the head prohibited from raising the seat.
>>
>> Ed
>> Briar Patch
>> New Orleans, La.
>>
>> On Mon, Apr 17, 2017 at 7:33 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hey everyone,
>>> I'm going to be replacing the toilet on our 34 in the next week or so.
>>> Last time I was down there I was looking at how it's mounted and noticed
>>> that it's up on a little platform and looks like there are thru-bolts
>>> holding it in place. I'm assuming that there is then a bolt on the
>>> underside that I will need to try and hold in place to loosen and tighten.
>>> I can't seem to figure out how to get under there though? I've thought that
>>> maybe the wall panel towards the v-berth comes off, but haven't tried it
>>> yet. Typically when I do something like that, something breaks and I'd
>>> prefer not to break something if I don't have to. :-)
>>>
>>> Any ideas on how to get to the underside of that platform for mounting a
>>> new toilet to it?
>>>
>>> Also, if I need to drill new holes for the new toilet, should I fill the
>>> old holes? If so, with what?
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Kevin Paxton
>>> '82 34 #473
>>> Japhys Spirit
>>> Cornfield Creek, Pasadena, MD
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List Head Replacement Mounting

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I replaced the Jabsco toilet in my boat, a few years ago, with a
"household" size toilet.  I made a platform out of Baltic Birch, covered
with fiberglass and epoxy, that let me mount the toilet out a little so the
toilet lid would stay open when raised.  By extending the mounting
location, I was able to keep the pump on the same side as before.  I used
lag bolts for mounting.

-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List Toilet Replacement Mounting question

[Eugene Fodor via CnC-List]

Hi Kevin,

Dittos on the lag screws. Also, be sure to do a dry fit including making
sure that you can get all the hoses attached. I believe I used 5200 (or
4200) on the holes and also on the lag screws. My head had a wood backer
underneath the fiberglass platform.

Gene
"Hawk"
C 29-2 '84


>   On Mon, Apr 17, 2017 at 7:33 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hey everyone,
> I'm going to be replacing the toilet on our 34 in the next week or so.
> Last time I was down there I was looking at how it's mounted and noticed
> that it's up on a little platform and looks like there are thru-bolts
> holding it in place. I'm assuming that there is then a bolt on the
> underside that I will need to try and hold in place to loosen and tighten.
> I can't seem to figure out how to get under there though? I've thought that
> maybe the wall panel towards the v-berth comes off, but haven't tried it
> yet. Typically when I do something like that, something breaks and I'd
> prefer not to break something if I don't have to. :-)
>
> Any ideas on how to get to the underside of that platform for mounting
> a new toilet to it?
>
> Also, if I need to drill new holes for the new toilet, should I fill
> the old holes? If so, with what?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kevin Paxton
> '82 34 #473
> Japhys Spirit
> Cornfield Creek, Pasadena, MD
>
> ___
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Traveler Bolts 33MK2

[Bob Caughran via CnC-List]

On my 29-2 there is a teak trim piece which covers the holes and the bottom of 
the bolts and nuts for the traveler. 

Bob Caughran 
29-2, Beemer, #309

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 17, 2017, at 10:41 AM, Lee Rosenbaum via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I want to remove the traveler on a 33MK2 and can't find a way to get at the 
> bolts in the middle of the boat (both ends are easy)
> It is located in the cockpit in front of the companion way.  When I look 
> underneath, it looks completely walled in.
> 
> Thanks,
> Lee Rosenbaum
> Kookaburra 33MK2
> Kenosha, WI
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 


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Stus-List Traveler Bolts 33MK2

[Lee Rosenbaum via CnC-List]

I want to remove the traveler on a 33MK2 and can't find a way to get at the
bolts in the middle of the boat (both ends are easy)
It is located in the cockpit in front of the companion way.  When I look
underneath, it looks completely walled in.

Thanks,
Lee Rosenbaum
Kookaburra 33MK2
Kenosha, WI
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Toilet Replacement Mounting question

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

It’s all coming back to me.  Space was an issue on the 34, and I also switched 
the side of the pump.  I forget the toilet type, but it barely fit even as 
reconfigured.

From: Kevin Paxton via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2017 10:58 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Kevin Paxton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Toilet Replacement Mounting question

Ed, 
I got the Jabsco compact and was actually concerned about the size of it as 
well. I'm debating on switching the side of the pump as well. Did it gain you 
that much room?


On Mon, Apr 17, 2017 at 10:21 AM Edward Levert  wrote:

  Kevin:

  I recently replaced the head on my "81 C 34. Rather than the hanger bolts 
shown at Home Depot at $20 each, I used lag screws. Much cheaper. Also, I was 
able to fit a large bowl Jabsco into the head compartment by reversing the pump 
to the left side of the head. Otherwise, the angled wall forward of the head 
prohibited from raising the seat.

  Ed
  Briar Patch
  New Orleans, La.

  On Mon, Apr 17, 2017 at 7:33 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hey everyone, 
I'm going to be replacing the toilet on our 34 in the next week or so. Last 
time I was down there I was looking at how it's mounted and noticed that it's 
up on a little platform and looks like there are thru-bolts holding it in 
place. I'm assuming that there is then a bolt on the underside that I will need 
to try and hold in place to loosen and tighten. I can't seem to figure out how 
to get under there though? I've thought that maybe the wall panel towards the 
v-berth comes off, but haven't tried it yet. Typically when I do something like 
that, something breaks and I'd prefer not to break something if I don't have 
to. :-)

Any ideas on how to get to the underside of that platform for mounting a 
new toilet to it?

Also, if I need to drill new holes for the new toilet, should I fill the 
old holes? If so, with what?

Thanks,

Kevin Paxton
'82 34 #473
Japhys Spirit
Cornfield Creek, Pasadena, MD

___

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wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Toilet Replacement Mounting question

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Ed,
I got the Jabsco compact and was actually concerned about the size of it as
well. I'm debating on switching the side of the pump as well. Did it gain
you that much room?

On Mon, Apr 17, 2017 at 10:21 AM Edward Levert 
wrote:

> Kevin:
>
> I recently replaced the head on my "81 C 34. Rather than the hanger
> bolts shown at Home Depot at $20 each, I used lag screws. Much cheaper.
> Also, I was able to fit a large bowl Jabsco into the head compartment by
> reversing the pump to the left side of the head. Otherwise, the angled wall
> forward of the head prohibited from raising the seat.
>
> Ed
> Briar Patch
> New Orleans, La.
>
> On Mon, Apr 17, 2017 at 7:33 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hey everyone,
>> I'm going to be replacing the toilet on our 34 in the next week or so.
>> Last time I was down there I was looking at how it's mounted and noticed
>> that it's up on a little platform and looks like there are thru-bolts
>> holding it in place. I'm assuming that there is then a bolt on the
>> underside that I will need to try and hold in place to loosen and tighten.
>> I can't seem to figure out how to get under there though? I've thought that
>> maybe the wall panel towards the v-berth comes off, but haven't tried it
>> yet. Typically when I do something like that, something breaks and I'd
>> prefer not to break something if I don't have to. :-)
>>
>> Any ideas on how to get to the underside of that platform for mounting a
>> new toilet to it?
>>
>> Also, if I need to drill new holes for the new toilet, should I fill the
>> old holes? If so, with what?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Kevin Paxton
>> '82 34 #473
>> Japhys Spirit
>> Cornfield Creek, Pasadena, MD
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List Toilet Replacement Mounting question

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Kevin:

I recently replaced the head on my "81 C 34. Rather than the hanger bolts
shown at Home Depot at $20 each, I used lag screws. Much cheaper. Also, I
was able to fit a large bowl Jabsco into the head compartment by reversing
the pump to the left side of the head. Otherwise, the angled wall forward
of the head prohibited from raising the seat.

Ed
Briar Patch
New Orleans, La.

On Mon, Apr 17, 2017 at 7:33 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey everyone,
> I'm going to be replacing the toilet on our 34 in the next week or so.
> Last time I was down there I was looking at how it's mounted and noticed
> that it's up on a little platform and looks like there are thru-bolts
> holding it in place. I'm assuming that there is then a bolt on the
> underside that I will need to try and hold in place to loosen and tighten.
> I can't seem to figure out how to get under there though? I've thought that
> maybe the wall panel towards the v-berth comes off, but haven't tried it
> yet. Typically when I do something like that, something breaks and I'd
> prefer not to break something if I don't have to. :-)
>
> Any ideas on how to get to the underside of that platform for mounting a
> new toilet to it?
>
> Also, if I need to drill new holes for the new toilet, should I fill the
> old holes? If so, with what?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kevin Paxton
> '82 34 #473
> Japhys Spirit
> Cornfield Creek, Pasadena, MD
>
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>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Toilet Replacement Mounting question

[Bill Dakin via CnC-List]

Same on the 25MKII

Bill Dakin

> On Apr 17, 2017, at 8:06 AM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Kevin,
> 
> Not sure if the 34 is the same as my 35-1, but in my case the toilet was 
> mounted on a platform as you describe, and the there are studs, not thru 
> bolts, that hold the toilet 

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Re: Stus-List Toilet Replacement Mounting question

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Thanks guys.
That makes it a lot simpler. Relieved to hear. :-)



Kevin Paxton
'82 34 #473
Japhys Spirit
Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD

On Mon, Apr 17, 2017 at 9:15 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I believe it is the same on the 34.  I recall replacing the toilet as Neil
> described below.
>
> *From:* Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, April 17, 2017 9:06 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Neil Gallagher 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Toilet Replacement Mounting question
>
> Kevin,
>
> Not sure if the 34 is the same as my 35-1, but in my case the toilet was
> mounted on a platform as you describe, and the there are studs, not thru
> bolts, that hold the toilet down.  The "studs" are called hanger bolts,
> they have a wood-screw thread on one end, and a machine thread on the
> other, with the wood screw end going into the platform.  I filled the old
> holes with epoxy, and drilled and screwed in the new hanger bolts.
>
>
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-5-16-in-18-tpi-x-2-in-Stainless-Steel-Hanger-Bolt-10-Pack-44948/204775370?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cTHD%7cG%7c0%7cG-BASE-PLA-D25H-Hardware%7c=CKvV9JXFq9MCFdmCswodRvgHZQ=aw.ds
>
> Neil Gallagher
> Weatherly 35-1
> Glen Cove, NY
>
>
> On 4/17/2017 8:33 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Hey everyone,
> I'm going to be replacing the toilet on our 34 in the next week or so.
> Last time I was down there I was looking at how it's mounted and noticed
> that it's up on a little platform and looks like there are thru-bolts
> holding it in place. I'm assuming that there is then a bolt on the
> underside that I will need to try and hold in place to loosen and tighten.
> I can't seem to figure out how to get under there though? I've thought that
> maybe the wall panel towards the v-berth comes off, but haven't tried it
> yet. Typically when I do something like that, something breaks and I'd
> prefer not to break something if I don't have to. :-)
>
> Any ideas on how to get to the underside of that platform for mounting a
> new toilet to it?
>
> Also, if I need to drill new holes for the new toilet, should I fill the
> old holes? If so, with what?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kevin Paxton
> '82 34 #473
> Japhys Spirit
> Cornfield Creek, Pasadena, MD
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> --
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List Toilet Replacement Mounting question

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

I believe it is the same on the 34.  I recall replacing the toilet as Neil 
described below.

From: Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2017 9:06 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Neil Gallagher 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Toilet Replacement Mounting question

Kevin,

Not sure if the 34 is the same as my 35-1, but in my case the toilet was 
mounted on a platform as you describe, and the there are studs, not thru bolts, 
that hold the toilet down.  The "studs" are called hanger bolts, they have a 
wood-screw thread on one end, and a machine thread on the other, with the wood 
screw end going into the platform.  I filled the old holes with epoxy, and 
drilled and screwed in the new hanger bolts.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-5-16-in-18-tpi-x-2-in-Stainless-Steel-Hanger-Bolt-10-Pack-44948/204775370?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cTHD%7cG%7c0%7cG-BASE-PLA-D25H-Hardware%7c=CKvV9JXFq9MCFdmCswodRvgHZQ=aw.ds
 

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 4/17/2017 8:33 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List wrote:

  Hey everyone, 
  I'm going to be replacing the toilet on our 34 in the next week or so. Last 
time I was down there I was looking at how it's mounted and noticed that it's 
up on a little platform and looks like there are thru-bolts holding it in 
place. I'm assuming that there is then a bolt on the underside that I will need 
to try and hold in place to loosen and tighten. I can't seem to figure out how 
to get under there though? I've thought that maybe the wall panel towards the 
v-berth comes off, but haven't tried it yet. Typically when I do something like 
that, something breaks and I'd prefer not to break something if I don't have 
to. :-)

  Any ideas on how to get to the underside of that platform for mounting a new 
toilet to it?

  Also, if I need to drill new holes for the new toilet, should I fill the old 
holes? If so, with what?

  Thanks,

  Kevin Paxton
  '82 34 #473
  Japhys Spirit
  Cornfield Creek, Pasadena, MD

   

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___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Toilet Replacement Mounting question

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Kevin,

Not sure if the 34 is the same as my 35-1, but in my case the toilet was 
mounted on a platform as you describe, and the there are studs, not thru 
bolts, that hold the toilet down.  The "studs" are called hanger bolts, 
they have a wood-screw thread on one end, and a machine thread on the 
other, with the wood screw end going into the platform.  I filled the 
old holes with epoxy, and drilled and screwed in the new hanger bolts.


http://www.homedepot.com/p/The-Hillman-Group-5-16-in-18-tpi-x-2-in-Stainless-Steel-Hanger-Bolt-10-Pack-44948/204775370?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cTHD%7cG%7c0%7cG-BASE-PLA-D25H-Hardware%7c=CKvV9JXFq9MCFdmCswodRvgHZQ=aw.ds 



Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 4/17/2017 8:33 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List wrote:

Hey everyone,
I'm going to be replacing the toilet on our 34 in the next week or so. 
Last time I was down there I was looking at how it's mounted and 
noticed that it's up on a little platform and looks like there are 
thru-bolts holding it in place. I'm assuming that there is then a bolt 
on the underside that I will need to try and hold in place to loosen 
and tighten. I can't seem to figure out how to get under there though? 
I've thought that maybe the wall panel towards the v-berth comes off, 
but haven't tried it yet. Typically when I do something like that, 
something breaks and I'd prefer not to break something if I don't have 
to. :-)


Any ideas on how to get to the underside of that platform for mounting 
a new toilet to it?


Also, if I need to drill new holes for the new toilet, should I fill 
the old holes? If so, with what?


Thanks,

Kevin Paxton
'82 34 #473
Japhys Spirit
Cornfield Creek, Pasadena, MD


___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List Toilet Replacement Mounting question

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

Hey everyone,
I'm going to be replacing the toilet on our 34 in the next week or so. Last
time I was down there I was looking at how it's mounted and noticed that
it's up on a little platform and looks like there are thru-bolts holding it
in place. I'm assuming that there is then a bolt on the underside that I
will need to try and hold in place to loosen and tighten. I can't seem to
figure out how to get under there though? I've thought that maybe the wall
panel towards the v-berth comes off, but haven't tried it yet. Typically
when I do something like that, something breaks and I'd prefer not to break
something if I don't have to. :-)

Any ideas on how to get to the underside of that platform for mounting a
new toilet to it?

Also, if I need to drill new holes for the new toilet, should I fill the
old holes? If so, with what?

Thanks,

Kevin Paxton
'82 34 #473
Japhys Spirit
Cornfield Creek, Pasadena, MD
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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