Re: Stus-List I need help with portlights

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Yep, that's the thread.

Just an update, in addition to MD Building Products, Frost King and a
couple others now make the black HDPM "D" shaped weather seal.  I think I
even saw some at Walmart the other day.

Just cut new lenses from Polycarbonate or acrylic.  Clean the old frames
and apply the "D" seal.  Lately I've been putting the joint at the bottom
and cutting it at 90 degrees.  There are arguments for putting the joint at
on end or at the top.  Also, heard folks cut it on a 45.  I don't think it
matters much.

Place the lens in and, starting from the top middle install the spline.
Lubricate the spline with diluted dish washing soap and use a wooden or
plastic implement to push it into the groove.  Just make sure you get it
all the way into the groove.  Not important for sealing, just for making
sure it doesn't decide to worm its way out.  The "D" seal is what keeps the
water out.

Don't mess with the frame.  It probably doesn't leak so don't fix it.  In
nearly 2 decades of C ownership and discussion lists and forums, I don't
recall a case of the frames leaking.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Jul 26, 2017 at 8:31 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Here is the link Mark.
>
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2010-
> October/035503.html
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark
> Smith via CnC-List
> Sent: July-26-17 22:03
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Mark Smith
> Subject: Stus-List I need help with portlights
>
>
> Can somebody point me to a thread discussing replacement of old style
> aluminum framed portlights?
> I have a 1977 C 30 Mark 1.  The portlights were replaced previously by
> the
> PO and I don't think they were done correctly, so I don't have a reference
> to go by to do it right.  Are there any diagrams showing how the plexiglas
> fits into the frame, where caulk should be applied, and how the gasketing
> should fit (ie, I need a cross-section drawing of the window construction
> so
> I can do it right).
> I'm not trying to be lazy,  but I can't figure out how to search these
> archives.
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
> http://www.avg.com
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List I need help with portlights

[Rick Taillieu via CnC-List]

Here is the link Mark.

http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2010-October/035503.html


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark
Smith via CnC-List
Sent: July-26-17 22:03
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mark Smith
Subject: Stus-List I need help with portlights


Can somebody point me to a thread discussing replacement of old style
aluminum framed portlights?
I have a 1977 C 30 Mark 1.  The portlights were replaced previously by the
PO and I don't think they were done correctly, so I don't have a reference
to go by to do it right.  Are there any diagrams showing how the plexiglas
fits into the frame, where caulk should be applied, and how the gasketing
should fit (ie, I need a cross-section drawing of the window construction so
I can do it right).
I'm not trying to be lazy,  but I can't figure out how to search these
archives.


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---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com


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Stus-List I need help with portlights

[Mark Smith via CnC-List]

Can somebody point me to a thread discussing replacement of old style aluminum 
framed portlights?
I have a 1977 C 30 Mark 1.  The portlights were replaced previously by the PO 
and I don't think they were
done correctly, so I don't have a reference to go by to do it right.  Are there 
any diagrams showing how the plexiglas
fits into the frame, where caulk should be applied, and how the gasketing 
should fit (ie, I need a cross-section drawing of the
window construction so I can do it right).
I'm not trying to be lazy,  but I can't figure out how to search these archives.


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Re: Stus-List Original Rig, (was US Watercraft receivership)

[bwhitmore--- via CnC-List]

Agreed on the stack pack.  We've just had ours a couple months,  but the main 
is so much easier to deal with that we go out more often, and with less stress. 
 Especially on our new (to us) bigger boat, it's really nice to head up to the 
wind, release the main halyard and have the sail drop into the stack pack.  No 
muss, no sail flaking, no putting the cover on.
Kindest Regards, 
Bruce Whitmore C 37/40+, "Astralis"Madiera Beach, Fl847.404.5092

 Original message 
From: Chuck Borge via CnC-List  
Date: 7/25/2017  6:54 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Chuck Borge  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Original Rig, (was US Watercraft receivership) 

Years of racing J24s, J30s & Etchells, never thought I'd have a furler.  Now a 
little older, wiser and sporting a Stackpack too. 
Not the fastest setup, but still finding a way to win club races. And my wife 
and I can be off the mooring and sailing in minutes. Put-away is just as quick. 
I am sure we use our boat many times more than those around us just because it 
is so easy. No sail- folding arguments either!
Enjoy!
Chuck BC 34 Elusive 

Sent from my iPhone
On Jul 25, 2017, at 6:17 PM, robert via CnC-List  wrote:


  

  
  
Bill

You will never regret putting a furler on your boat.



Rob Abbott

AZURA

C 32 - 84

Halifax,N.S.



On 2017-07-25 6:00 PM, Bill Dakin via
  CnC-List wrote:



  
  Tapestry is all original from '81, no
'conveniences' of furler, self tailers, clutches, or any modern
rigging.  It's kind of interesting being the throwback to older
times among all the jazz on my dock.  Alas, I asked our rigger
to quote a Schaefer furler last week.
Bill Dakin

  S/V Tapestry,
  '81 25 MKII




  

  
  

  
  

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Re: Stus-List Rigid boom vangs - rivets vs screws

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

When I got my rigid vang  from Garhauer, they suggested the course threads.  
The fine threaded screws, they argued are shallower,  and therefore will strip 
or pull out easier.
It might be a good idea to call Garhauer for verification.
Good luck,
Bruce


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: schiller via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/26/17  6:20 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: schiller  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Rigid boom vangs - rivets vs screws 
I would add that fine threads would be better than coarse for the relatively 
thin section.

Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C 35 Mark 1)
Corsair
Still waiting so see if we can be repaired in Muskegon, Michigan

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 26, 2017, at 11:34 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Seems to be a difference of opinion.  I've installed several but that doesn't 
> make me an expert.  I've seen aluminum rivets, stainless rivets, machine 
> screws and hex head bolts.
> 
> My opinions on each.
> 
> Aluminum rivets - not strong enough.  Will eventually work loose or break.
> 
> Stainless rivets - my choice.  Very, very low potential to work loose or 
> break.  Coat with TefGel to minimize dissimilar metal corrosion.  Downside - 
> requires expensive rivet tool.
> 
> Machine screws - some potential to work loose.  Once they work loose, bad 
> things can happen.  I don't have a real issue with them as long as they're 
> coated with red thread locker.
> 
> Hex head bolts - some potential to  work loose but, in my opinion, a better 
> choice than machine screws.  Coat with red thread locker.  If you need to 
> remove them, easier than machine screws.  They can also be tightened more 
> than machine screws.
> 
> Bottom line - if you don't have a Big Daddy rivet tool, screws or bolts are 
> fine.  Just use red thread locker and inspect them every now and then.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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Re: Stus-List Rigid boom vangs - rivets vs screws

[schiller via CnC-List]

I would add that fine threads would be better than coarse for the relatively 
thin section.

Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C 35 Mark 1)
Corsair
Still waiting so see if we can be repaired in Muskegon, Michigan

Sent from my iPad

> On Jul 26, 2017, at 11:34 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Seems to be a difference of opinion.  I've installed several but that doesn't 
> make me an expert.  I've seen aluminum rivets, stainless rivets, machine 
> screws and hex head bolts.
> 
> My opinions on each.
> 
> Aluminum rivets - not strong enough.  Will eventually work loose or break.
> 
> Stainless rivets - my choice.  Very, very low potential to work loose or 
> break.  Coat with TefGel to minimize dissimilar metal corrosion.  Downside - 
> requires expensive rivet tool.
> 
> Machine screws - some potential to work loose.  Once they work loose, bad 
> things can happen.  I don't have a real issue with them as long as they're 
> coated with red thread locker.
> 
> Hex head bolts - some potential to  work loose but, in my opinion, a better 
> choice than machine screws.  Coat with red thread locker.  If you need to 
> remove them, easier than machine screws.  They can also be tightened more 
> than machine screws.
> 
> Bottom line - if you don't have a Big Daddy rivet tool, screws or bolts are 
> fine.  Just use red thread locker and inspect them every now and then.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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Re: Stus-List New owner, 1980 C 30' MK1, SV "Going"

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Good attitude -good luck!

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 26, 2017, at 3:50 PM, svpegasus38 via CnC-List 
> wrote:

I felt the same 2 months ago when I bought my LF39. I had almost finished 
upgrading my other boat, a LF38. When my neighbor comes up to my girlfriend and 
says "we are selling Significant Other, are you interested?" Of course we go 
look (I had toured the boat before). Afterwards I ask how much? I am now a 2 
boat owner.
Glad I did the move, really like new boat, not that I didn't like old boat. But 
now I have a whole list of new projects.



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
Doug Mountjoy
POYC
Pegasus (for sale)
Lf38
Significant Other
LF39

 Original message 
From: Chris Hobson via CnC-List 
>
Date: 7/26/17 07:08 (GMT-08:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chris Hobson >
Subject: Stus-List New owner, 1980 C 30' MK1, SV "Going"

Still squaring away the details for my second day of boat ownership on my new 
(to me) 1980 C 30 MK1. Yesterday when I signed the papers, got the keys and 
cracked a beer to watch my first sunset in the cockpit, I had mixed feelings of 
elation and a good dose of: oh-shit-I-just-bought-an-old-boat. Because who 
really knows if the surveyor missed something, or what’s going on between a 
hull and a keel joint. I’m not getting any younger and I feel like the fun 
happens when you jump in the water and figure it out as you go. Maybe we should 
change the definition of what a boat is: A hole in the water in which one 
jumps. Anyway I’m proud to be part of the group and always wanted a C I’m an 
Ontario boy who’s now on the west coast and ready for sailing, with a whopping 
to-do list to get through in the coming months. Wish me luck!

Chris


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Re: Stus-List New owner, 1980 C 30' MK1, SV "Going"

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I felt the same 2 months ago when I bought my LF39. I had almost finished 
upgrading my other boat, a LF38. When my neighbor comes up to my girlfriend and 
says "we are selling Significant Other, are you interested?" Of course we go 
look (I had toured the boat before). Afterwards I ask how much? I am now a 2 
boat owner. Glad I did the move, really like new boat, not that I didn't like 
old boat. But now I have a whole list of new projects.


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Significant Other LF39 
 Original message From: Chris Hobson via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/26/17  07:08  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chris Hobson  Subject: 
Stus-List New owner, 1980 C 30' MK1, SV "Going" 
Still squaring away the details for my second day of boat ownership on my new 
(to me) 1980 C 30 MK1. Yesterday when I signed the papers, got the keys and 
cracked a beer to watch my first sunset in the cockpit, I had mixed feelings of 
elation and a good dose of: oh-shit-I-just-bought-an-old-boat. Because who 
really knows if the surveyor missed something, or what’s going on between a 
hull and a keel joint. I’m not getting any younger and I feel like the fun 
happens when you jump in the water and figure it out as you go. Maybe we should 
change the definition of what a boat is: A hole in the water in which one 
jumps. Anyway I’m proud to be part of the group and always wanted a C I’m an 
Ontario boy who’s now on the west coast and ready for sailing, with a whopping 
to-do list to get through in the coming months. Wish me luck!

Chris


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Stus-List Rigid boom vangs - rivets vs screws

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Seems to be a difference of opinion.  I've installed several but that
doesn't make me an expert.  I've seen aluminum rivets, stainless rivets,
machine screws and hex head bolts.

My opinions on each.

Aluminum rivets - not strong enough.  Will eventually work loose or break.

Stainless rivets - my choice.  Very, very low potential to work loose or
break.  Coat with TefGel to minimize dissimilar metal corrosion.  Downside
- requires expensive rivet tool.

Machine screws - some potential to work loose.  Once they work loose, bad
things can happen.  I don't have a real issue with them as long as they're
coated with red thread locker.

Hex head bolts - some potential to  work loose but, in my opinion, a better
choice than machine screws.  Coat with red thread locker.  If you need to
remove them, easier than machine screws.  They can also be tightened more
than machine screws.

Bottom line - if you don't have a Big Daddy rivet tool, screws or bolts are
fine.  Just use red thread locker and inspect them every now and then.

Hope this helps.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Hillerange oven issues

[Mike Macdonald via CnC-List]

Actually liking to sell the entire unit with the tank as well

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 26, 2017, at 2:29 PM, DMcMillan  wrote:
> 
> Hi Mike – are you wanting to sell the thermostat from your Hillerange?
>  
>  
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Re: Stus-List Hillerange oven issues

[DMcMillan via CnC-List]

Hi Mike - are you wanting to sell the thermostat from your Hillerange?

 

 

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Re: Stus-List C 30 boomvang issue

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi Bill,

I was going to drop by and ask how the race went...but now I know!

Like Neil, I just installed a Garhauer rigid vang and tapped out holes in
mast (8) and boom (6). Haven't been out in anything more than 18-20 knots
yet, but so far so good.

Drop by anytime and take a look.

Mike
Atacama 33mkii

On Jul 26, 2017 1:34 PM, "Neil Gallagher via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Interesting question,  I just finished putting a vang on my 35-1.  After
> much internal debate, and talking to Garhauer from whom I got the
> fittings,  I went with tapped holes/screw, though drilling 8 holes in my
> mast and 6 in my boom wasn't the most comforting thing to do.  My only
> logic was if the screws rip out, I can always enlarge the holes to take
> rivets
>
> Neil Gallagher
> Weatherly, 35-1
> Glen Cove, NY
>
>
>
> On 7/26/2017 12:36 PM, RANDY via CnC-List wrote:
>
> For what it's worth, my Garhauer rigid vang (not hydraulic) on my 30-1
> fastens to the mast and boom with screws - six or eight screws per base
> plate.  I had to use very specific sizes of drill bits and thread taps
> matching the fat deep-threaded screws Garhauer sent me.  It's a solid
> installation and has withstood gusts nearing 40 knots multiple times these
> last two years.  Is tapping and screwing an option for fastening your vang?
>
> Cheers,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
> --
> *From: *"Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
> 
> *To: *"CnClist"  
> *Cc: *"Dennis"  
> *Sent: *Wednesday, July 26, 2017 10:02:02 AM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List C 30 boomvang issue
>
> I'm guessing they were aluminum rivets.  "Every high load" rivet I
> installed in a mast was stainless coated with TefGel.
>
> However, to install larger stainless rivets, you need a BIG rivet tool
> like a Marson Big Daddy.  They run about $150.
>
> If it were me, I'd punch out the old rivets and reinstall with stainless.
> Is there a rental shop around where you can rent a Big Daddy?
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Wed, Jul 26, 2017 at 10:29 AM, Bill Nickel via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> During my recent "race" in the Lake Ontario 300 (actually the shorter
>> scotch bonnet race) my hydraulic boom bang broke off at the base of the
>> mast. The rivets appear to have sheared off.
>> I have the local boat repair company taking a look, but t I am curious if
>> anyone has suggestions?
>>
>> Bill Nickel
>>
>> "adagio"
>>
>> 1977 C 30 mk 1
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C 30 boomvang issue

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Interesting question,  I just finished putting a vang on my 35-1. After 
much internal debate, and talking to Garhauer from whom I got the 
fittings,  I went with tapped holes/screw, though drilling 8 holes in my 
mast and 6 in my boom wasn't the most comforting thing to do.  My only 
logic was if the screws rip out, I can always enlarge the holes to take 
rivets


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 7/26/2017 12:36 PM, RANDY via CnC-List wrote:
For what it's worth, my Garhauer rigid vang (not hydraulic) on my 30-1 
fastens to the mast and boom with screws - six or eight screws per 
base plate.  I had to use very specific sizes of drill bits and thread 
taps matching the fat deep-threaded screws Garhauer sent me.  It's a 
solid installation and has withstood gusts nearing 40 knots multiple 
times these last two years.  Is tapping and screwing an option for 
fastening your vang?


Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO


*From: *"Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
*To: *"CnClist" 
*Cc: *"Dennis" 
*Sent: *Wednesday, July 26, 2017 10:02:02 AM
*Subject: *Re: Stus-List C 30 boomvang issue

I'm guessing they were aluminum rivets.  "Every high load" rivet I 
installed in a mast was stainless coated with TefGel.


However, to install larger stainless rivets, you need a BIG rivet tool 
like a Marson Big Daddy.  They run about $150.


If it were me, I'd punch out the old rivets and reinstall with 
stainless.  Is there a rental shop around where you can rent a Big Daddy?


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Jul 26, 2017 at 10:29 AM, Bill Nickel via CnC-List 
> wrote:


During my recent "race" in the Lake Ontario 300 (actually the
shorter scotch bonnet race) my hydraulic boom bang broke off at
the base of the mast. The rivets appear to have sheared off.
I have the local boat repair company taking a look, but t I am
curious if anyone has suggestions?

Bill Nickel

"adagio"

1977 C 30 mk 1


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 https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 30 boomvang issue

[RANDY via CnC-List]

For what it's worth, my Garhauer rigid vang (not hydraulic) on my 30-1 fastens 
to the mast and boom with screws - six or eight screws per base plate. I had to 
use very specific sizes of drill bits and thread taps matching the fat 
deep-threaded screws Garhauer sent me. It's a solid installation and has 
withstood gusts nearing 40 knots multiple times these last two years. Is 
tapping and screwing an option for fastening your vang? 

Cheers, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C 30-1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 

- Original Message -

From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
To: "CnClist"  
Cc: "Dennis"  
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2017 10:02:02 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 30 boomvang issue 

I'm guessing they were aluminum rivets. "Every high load" rivet I installed in 
a mast was stainless coated with TefGel. 

However, to install larger stainless rivets, you need a BIG rivet tool like a 
Marson Big Daddy. They run about $150. 

If it were me, I'd punch out the old rivets and reinstall with stainless. Is 
there a rental shop around where you can rent a Big Daddy? 

Dennis C. 
Touche' 35-1 #83 
Mandeville, LA 

On Wed, Jul 26, 2017 at 10:29 AM, Bill Nickel via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 


During my recent "race" in the Lake Ontario 300 (actually the shorter scotch 
bonnet race) my hydraulic boom bang broke off at the base of the mast. The 
rivets appear to have sheared off. 
I have the local boat repair company taking a look, but t I am curious if 
anyone has suggestions? 

Bill Nickel 

"adagio" 

1977 C 30 mk 1 


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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 

All Contributions are greatly appreciated! 





___ 

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 

All Contributions are greatly appreciated! 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Water pump for Yanmar 3GMF

[JP Mail via CnC-List]

Mathew,
I'm (diagonally) across the river from you in Ossining. 
Hope to wave to you one day this summer. 
Jon


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 26, 2017, at 11:26 AM, Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thank you for all who responded. 
> FYI
> 
> As my current mechanic does not have confidence that the repair is a good 
> idea, I am opting to buy a new pump.
> 
> I used this suggested link for source (thank you):
> http://www.depcopump.com/
> I spoke to Jim who was really helpful.
> 
> It seems I have a Yanmar #721575-42702 pump on the boat
> This means the boat was marinized in the states and their price was similar - 
> $528
> But there is also a Yanmar #128397-42500 pump for boats that were marinized 
> in Europe. - $242
> Jim says they are interchangeable - I opt to save the $300.
> I think this is why many of you say they spent less. You might have had the 
> other pump or substituted for it.
> The two pumps have different Impellers - the less expensive one I think has a 
> split shaft.
> Interesting I think I noticed Joel had both kinds of impellers on the boat.
> 
> I will send the old pump out for repair and either keep it as a back up or 
> sell one.
> 
> Thanks again.
> 
> Matthew Schlanger
> The Office
> C 35 Mk3
> Nyack, NY
> 
>> On Jul 25, 2017, at 4:57 PM, ahycrace via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Fix the pump if possible 
>> 
>> Gary Kolc "Liberty"
>> 
>> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>> 
>>  Original message 
>> From: Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List 
>> Date: 7/25/17 11:45 AM (GMT-05:00)
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Matthew Schlanger 
>> Subject: Stus-List Water pump for Yanmar 3GMF
>> 
>> I was wondering if anyone knew of sources for replacement water pumps for my 
>> Yanmar 3GMF.
>> It’s leaking and Yanmar wants $549 for an official Yanmar replacement!
>> 
>> Are there reasonable alternatives?
>> 
>> Thanks
>> 
>> 
>> Matthew Schlanger
>> The Office
>> C 35 MKIII
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Water pump for Yanmar 3GMF

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

Your very welcome.

One correction. The second pump, the less expensive replacement, is a Johnson 
made only for Yanmar. I do think that number is a Yanmar number, there is also 
a Johnson number.


Matthew Schlanger
The Office
C 35 Mk3
Nyack, NY

> On Jul 26, 2017, at 12:09 PM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Thanks Matthew
>  
> This is very good information for those of us with 3GM30F engines!
>  
> Mike
> Persistence
> Halifax, NS
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew 
> Schlanger via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2017 12:26 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Matthew Schlanger
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Water pump for Yanmar 3GMF
>  
> Thank you for all who responded. 
> FYI
>  
> As my current mechanic does not have confidence that the repair is a good 
> idea, I am opting to buy a new pump.
>  
> I used this suggested link for source (thank you):
> http://www.depcopump.com/ 
> I spoke to Jim who was really helpful.
>  
> It seems I have a Yanmar #721575-42702 pump on the boat
> This means the boat was marinized in the states and their price was similar - 
> $528
> But there is also a Yanmar #128397-42500 pump for boats that were marinized 
> in Europe. - $242
> Jim says they are interchangeable - I opt to save the $300.
> I think this is why many of you say they spent less. You might have had the 
> other pump or substituted for it.
> The two pumps have different Impellers - the less expensive one I think has a 
> split shaft.
> Interesting I think I noticed Joel had both kinds of impellers on the boat.
>  
> I will send the old pump out for repair and either keep it as a back up or 
> sell one.
>  
> Thanks again.
>  
> Matthew Schlanger
> The Office
> C 35 Mk3
> Nyack, NY
>  
> On Jul 25, 2017, at 4:57 PM, ahycrace via CnC-List  > wrote:
>  
> Fix the pump if possible 
>  
> Gary Kolc "Liberty"
>  
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>  
>  Original message 
> From: Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List  >
> Date: 7/25/17 11:45 AM (GMT-05:00) 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Matthew Schlanger >
> Subject: Stus-List Water pump for Yanmar 3GMF 
>  
> I was wondering if anyone knew of sources for replacement water pumps for my 
> Yanmar 3GMF.
> It’s leaking and Yanmar wants $549 for an official Yanmar replacement!
> 
> Are there reasonable alternatives?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Matthew Schlanger
> The Office
> C 35 MKIII
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Water pump for Yanmar 3GMF

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Thanks Matthew

This is very good information for those of us with 3GM30F engines!

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew 
Schlanger via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2017 12:26 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew Schlanger
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water pump for Yanmar 3GMF

Thank you for all who responded.
FYI

As my current mechanic does not have confidence that the repair is a good idea, 
I am opting to buy a new pump.

I used this suggested link for source (thank you):
http://www.depcopump.com/
I spoke to Jim who was really helpful.

It seems I have a Yanmar #721575-42702 pump on the boat
This means the boat was marinized in the states and their price was similar - 
$528
But there is also a Yanmar #128397-42500 pump for boats that were marinized in 
Europe. - $242
Jim says they are interchangeable - I opt to save the $300.
I think this is why many of you say they spent less. You might have had the 
other pump or substituted for it.
The two pumps have different Impellers - the less expensive one I think has a 
split shaft.
Interesting I think I noticed Joel had both kinds of impellers on the boat.

I will send the old pump out for repair and either keep it as a back up or sell 
one.

Thanks again.

Matthew Schlanger
The Office
C 35 Mk3
Nyack, NY

On Jul 25, 2017, at 4:57 PM, ahycrace via CnC-List 
> wrote:

Fix the pump if possible

Gary Kolc "Liberty"

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 Original message 
From: Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List 
>
Date: 7/25/17 11:45 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew Schlanger >
Subject: Stus-List Water pump for Yanmar 3GMF

I was wondering if anyone knew of sources for replacement water pumps for my 
Yanmar 3GMF.
It’s leaking and Yanmar wants $549 for an official Yanmar replacement!

Are there reasonable alternatives?

Thanks


Matthew Schlanger
The Office
C 35 MKIII


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 3M VHB Tape

[Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List]

  
  


Fred,
I'd suggest following the advice in the Sail Mag article
http://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/maintenance/replacing-fixed-portlights/
And http://svjohannarose.blogspot.ca/search/label/NewPorts

I did my windows this spring.  It went pretty smoothly.  I
  initially thought I'd want to spread the sealant on the cabin side
  before I attached the window - but couldn't see how I could keep
  the tape clean.  In the end - using the "tape hinge" method to get
  the window in the right place and attached, then masking around
  the window and squeezing the caulk sealant in from the outside
  filled the gap easier than I expected.
The biggest challenge I had (after getting the windows out) was
  cutting and shaping my windows.  Putting them in and sealing was a
  long day - but not as fraught with challenges as most other boat
  projects I've faced.

Mark
CS 30 - Prosecco
Deep Cove Nova Scotia



There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
On 2017-07-26 11:25 AM, Frederick G
  Street via CnC-List wrote:


  
  Hi, Fred — as long as the peel-off backing is still on both sides
  of the tape, you can cut it with a sharp scissors.  I just did a
  square or angled cut as needed to the tape, then butted the next
  piece right up to the previous piece and kept going.
  
  
  If I understand your second question, when I had the
acrylic cut for the new windows, I made sure I had at least 1/8”
or more all the way around the window between the acrylic and
the mortise into the cabin top; then the Dow 795 was “injected”
into that gap under pressure so it squeezed around under the
acrylic up to where the tape was.  I also tended to hold the
tape off the inside opening a bit, so it didn’t show so much
from the inside.  That made for less of a gap between the
outside edge of the acrylic and the tape under it.
  
  
  And the VHB tape isn’t really permanent; it just
sticks really well.  If you get a putty knife
into the small crack between the acrylic and the cabin top from
inside the boat, you’ll eventually be able to work your way
around the opening and get the thing loose.  But it’ll take a
while, and you’ll definitely wreck the old acrylic in the
process.  Hopefully, you’ll have many years before you’ll need
to do this…
  
  
  — Fred

  
  



  

  

  Fred Street -- Minneapolis
  S/V Oceanis (1979
  C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield,
  WI
  

  

  
  
  




  
On Jul 26, 2017, at 9:16 AM, Fred Hazzard via
  CnC-List 
  wrote:


  
Now
  that I have bought the 4991 tape some questions occur
  to me.


Assuming
  I want the tape to just outline the window opening,
  can I cut the the tape to go around the corners
  without sticking to the scissors or sharp blade?  The
  shape of the window opening has some rather quick,
  tight turns.  The radius of one turn is no more than
  the radius of a dime.


Another
  question is about the use of the Dow 795 silicon. 
  When do I apply the silicon?  Because the tape is 1/2"
  wide and the some of the window will extend more than
  1/2" beyond the tape, if I put the silicon on before
  affixing the window I can see the silicon squeezing
  onto the tape as I apply pressure. If I put the
  silicon after sticking the window in place I can see
  difficulties in getting it into the area that is less
  than 1/8" thick. 


Another
  question is more of a long term problem.  Assuming
  that I have my boat until the windows need replacing
  again,  how will I be able to remove one if the tape
  is 

Re: Stus-List C 30 boomvang issue

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I'm guessing they were aluminum rivets.  "Every high load" rivet I
installed in a mast was stainless coated with TefGel.

However, to install larger stainless rivets, you need a BIG rivet tool like
a Marson Big Daddy.  They run about $150.

If it were me, I'd punch out the old rivets and reinstall with stainless.
Is there a rental shop around where you can rent a Big Daddy?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Jul 26, 2017 at 10:29 AM, Bill Nickel via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> During my recent "race" in the Lake Ontario 300 (actually the shorter
> scotch bonnet race) my hydraulic boom bang broke off at the base of the
> mast. The rivets appear to have sheared off.
> I have the local boat repair company taking a look, but t I am curious if
> anyone has suggestions?
>
> Bill Nickel
>
> "adagio"
>
> 1977 C 30 mk 1
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List C 30 boomvang issue

[Bill Nickel via CnC-List]

During my recent "race" in the Lake Ontario 300 (actually the shorter scotch 
bonnet race) my hydraulic boom bang broke off at the base of the mast. The 
rivets appear to have sheared off. 
I have the local boat repair company taking a look, but t I am curious if 
anyone has suggestions?

Bill Nickel

"adagio" 

1977 C 30 mk 1


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Water pump for Yanmar 3GMF

[Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List]

Thank you for all who responded. 
FYI

As my current mechanic does not have confidence that the repair is a good idea, 
I am opting to buy a new pump.

I used this suggested link for source (thank you):
http://www.depcopump.com/ 
I spoke to Jim who was really helpful.

It seems I have a Yanmar #721575-42702 pump on the boat
This means the boat was marinized in the states and their price was similar - 
$528
But there is also a Yanmar #128397-42500 pump for boats that were marinized in 
Europe. - $242
Jim says they are interchangeable - I opt to save the $300.
I think this is why many of you say they spent less. You might have had the 
other pump or substituted for it.
The two pumps have different Impellers - the less expensive one I think has a 
split shaft.
Interesting I think I noticed Joel had both kinds of impellers on the boat.

I will send the old pump out for repair and either keep it as a back up or sell 
one.

Thanks again.

Matthew Schlanger
The Office
C 35 Mk3
Nyack, NY

> On Jul 25, 2017, at 4:57 PM, ahycrace via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Fix the pump if possible 
> 
> Gary Kolc "Liberty"
> 
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List 
> Date: 7/25/17 11:45 AM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Matthew Schlanger 
> Subject: Stus-List Water pump for Yanmar 3GMF
> 
> I was wondering if anyone knew of sources for replacement water pumps for my 
> Yanmar 3GMF.
> It’s leaking and Yanmar wants $549 for an official Yanmar replacement!
> 
> Are there reasonable alternatives?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Matthew Schlanger
> The Office
> C 35 MKIII
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 3M VHB Tape

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Tape the cabin top and window lens (if the protective layer has been
removed). "Push" the tip of the silicone gun or tube.  Don't pull it.  Keep
a small bubble of silicone on the front of the tip.  That will ensure you
are forcing silicone into the gap.  Once you've injected the silicone all
the way around, use the back side of a plastic spoon to smooth the silicone
into a concave shape.  Keep the spoon moving smoothly.  Don't start and
stop.  If you find a gap or two in the silicone, fill it quickly and run
the spoon around again.

Press the spoon fairly hard.  It will remove the silicone immediately on
either side of the gap.  Let it cure a bit.  Check the cure by touching the
excess silicone on the tape not in the gap.  When it is moderately firm but
not completely cured, pull the tape making sure you pull away from the gap.

The result should be a really nice "factory" look.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Jul 26, 2017 at 9:16 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Now that I have bought the 4991 tape some questions occur to me.
>
> Assuming I want the tape to just outline the window opening, can I cut the
> the tape to go around the corners without sticking to the scissors or sharp
> blade?  The shape of the window opening has some rather quick, tight
> turns.  The radius of one turn is no more than the radius of a dime.
>
> Another question is about the use of the Dow 795 silicon.  When do I apply
> the silicon?  Because the tape is 1/2" wide and the some of the window will
> extend more than 1/2" beyond the tape, if I put the silicon on before
> affixing the window I can see the silicon squeezing onto the tape as I
> apply pressure. If I put the silicon after sticking the window in place I
> can see difficulties in getting it into the area that is less than 1/8"
> thick.
>
> Another question is more of a long term problem.  Assuming that I have my
> boat until the windows need replacing again,  how will I be able to remove
> one if the tape is "permanent".
>
> Any other suggestions about the use of the tape will be appreciated.
>
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C 44
> Portland, Or
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List New owner, 1980 C 30' MK1, SV "Going"

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Chris,

Congratulations!!  Seem you have an appropriate view of boating! 
Somewhere between "this is amazing!"  and "what the hell did I just get 
myself into?"


Danny
Mattapoisett, MA


On 7/26/2017 10:08 AM, Chris Hobson via CnC-List wrote:

Still squaring away the details for my second day of boat ownership on my new (to me) 
1980 C 30 MK1. Yesterday when I signed the papers, got the keys and cracked a 
beer to watch my first sunset in the cockpit, I had mixed feelings of elation and a 
good dose of: oh-shit-I-just-bought-an-old-boat. Because who really knows if the 
surveyor missed something, or what’s going on between a hull and a keel joint. I’m not 
getting any younger and I feel like the fun happens when you jump in the water and 
figure it out as you go. Maybe we should change the definition of what a boat is: A 
hole in the water in which one jumps. Anyway I’m proud to be part of the group and 
always wanted a C I’m an Ontario boy who’s now on the west coast and ready for 
sailing, with a whopping to-do list to get through in the coming months. Wish me luck!

Chris


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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List New owner, 1980 C 30' MK1, SV "Going"

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Welcome to the 30-1 club! We have a great group and cover 30's from hull number 
1 to the mid 600's, and few of us are shy about what we have done to keep our 
boats out there.

You will enjoy her.

Gary Nylander
#593
St. Michaels Maryland

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chris Hobson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2017 10:08 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chris Hobson 
Subject: Stus-List New owner, 1980 C 30' MK1, SV "Going"

Still squaring away the details for my second day of boat ownership on my new 
(to me) 1980 C 30 MK1. Yesterday when I signed the papers, got the keys and 
cracked a beer to watch my first sunset in the cockpit, I had mixed feelings of 
elation and a good dose of: oh-shit-I-just-bought-an-old-boat. Because who 
really knows if the surveyor missed something, or what’s going on between a 
hull and a keel joint. I’m not getting any younger and I feel like the fun 
happens when you jump in the water and figure it out as you go. Maybe we should 
change the definition of what a boat is: A hole in the water in which one 
jumps. Anyway I’m proud to be part of the group and always wanted a C I’m an 
Ontario boy who’s now on the west coast and ready for sailing, with a whopping 
to-do list to get through in the coming months. Wish me luck!

Chris


___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 3M VHB Tape

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Hi, Fred — as long as the peel-off backing is still on both sides of the tape, 
you can cut it with a sharp scissors.  I just did a square or angled cut as 
needed to the tape, then butted the next piece right up to the previous piece 
and kept going.

If I understand your second question, when I had the acrylic cut for the new 
windows, I made sure I had at least 1/8” or more all the way around the window 
between the acrylic and the mortise into the cabin top; then the Dow 795 was 
“injected” into that gap under pressure so it squeezed around under the acrylic 
up to where the tape was.  I also tended to hold the tape off the inside 
opening a bit, so it didn’t show so much from the inside.  That made for less 
of a gap between the outside edge of the acrylic and the tape under it.

And the VHB tape isn’t really permanent; it just sticks really well.  If you 
get a putty knife into the small crack between the acrylic and the cabin top 
from inside the boat, you’ll eventually be able to work your way around the 
opening and get the thing loose.  But it’ll take a while, and you’ll definitely 
wreck the old acrylic in the process.  Hopefully, you’ll have many years before 
you’ll need to do this…

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jul 26, 2017, at 9:16 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Now that I have bought the 4991 tape some questions occur to me.
> 
> Assuming I want the tape to just outline the window opening, can I cut the 
> the tape to go around the corners without sticking to the scissors or sharp 
> blade?  The shape of the window opening has some rather quick, tight turns.  
> The radius of one turn is no more than the radius of a dime.
> 
> Another question is about the use of the Dow 795 silicon.  When do I apply 
> the silicon?  Because the tape is 1/2" wide and the some of the window will 
> extend more than 1/2" beyond the tape, if I put the silicon on before 
> affixing the window I can see the silicon squeezing onto the tape as I apply 
> pressure. If I put the silicon after sticking the window in place I can see 
> difficulties in getting it into the area that is less than 1/8" thick. 
> 
> Another question is more of a long term problem.  Assuming that I have my 
> boat until the windows need replacing again,  how will I be able to remove 
> one if the tape is "permanent".
> 
> Any other suggestions about the use of the tape will be appreciated.
> 
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C 44
> Portland, Or
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Stus-List 3M VHB Tape

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Now that I have bought the 4991 tape some questions occur to me.

Assuming I want the tape to just outline the window opening, can I cut the
the tape to go around the corners without sticking to the scissors or sharp
blade?  The shape of the window opening has some rather quick, tight
turns.  The radius of one turn is no more than the radius of a dime.

Another question is about the use of the Dow 795 silicon.  When do I apply
the silicon?  Because the tape is 1/2" wide and the some of the window will
extend more than 1/2" beyond the tape, if I put the silicon on before
affixing the window I can see the silicon squeezing onto the tape as I
apply pressure. If I put the silicon after sticking the window in place I
can see difficulties in getting it into the area that is less than 1/8"
thick.

Another question is more of a long term problem.  Assuming that I have my
boat until the windows need replacing again,  how will I be able to remove
one if the tape is "permanent".

Any other suggestions about the use of the tape will be appreciated.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or
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Re: Stus-List New owner, 1980 C 30' MK1, SV "Going"

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Chris — welcome to the great C club!  My first sailboat was a 1981 30mkI, 
hull #677; after ten years, I graduated to a 1979 Landfall 38, hull #009 (I 
guess I’m going backwards in terms of boat age…).

You’ll find LOTS of 30mkI owners on the list, and a wealth of experience about 
all things C  If you feel it’s as good a value as most of us here do, please 
try to remember our volunteer host, Stu, who runs this thing out of the 
goodness of his heart (or sheer stubbornness…   :^).  This reminds me that I 
need to send him another donation...

We generally try to encourage listers to put their name, boat type/name and 
where they sail at the bottom of the emails, so we can give proper advice.  So 
it would help us to know where on the West Coast you sail.

Again, welcome — and ask lots of questions, you’ll get plenty of good answers.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jul 26, 2017, at 9:08 AM, Chris Hobson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Still squaring away the details for my second day of boat ownership on my new 
> (to me) 1980 C 30 MK1. Yesterday when I signed the papers, got the keys and 
> cracked a beer to watch my first sunset in the cockpit, I had mixed feelings 
> of elation and a good dose of: oh-shit-I-just-bought-an-old-boat. Because who 
> really knows if the surveyor missed something, or what’s going on between a 
> hull and a keel joint. I’m not getting any younger and I feel like the fun 
> happens when you jump in the water and figure it out as you go. Maybe we 
> should change the definition of what a boat is: A hole in the water in which 
> one jumps. Anyway I’m proud to be part of the group and always wanted a C 
> I’m an Ontario boy who’s now on the west coast and ready for sailing, with a 
> whopping to-do list to get through in the coming months. Wish me luck!
> 
> Chris
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Stus-List New owner, 1980 C 30' MK1, SV "Going"

[Chris Hobson via CnC-List]

Still squaring away the details for my second day of boat ownership on my new 
(to me) 1980 C 30 MK1. Yesterday when I signed the papers, got the keys and 
cracked a beer to watch my first sunset in the cockpit, I had mixed feelings of 
elation and a good dose of: oh-shit-I-just-bought-an-old-boat. Because who 
really knows if the surveyor missed something, or what’s going on between a 
hull and a keel joint. I’m not getting any younger and I feel like the fun 
happens when you jump in the water and figure it out as you go. Maybe we should 
change the definition of what a boat is: A hole in the water in which one 
jumps. Anyway I’m proud to be part of the group and always wanted a C I’m an 
Ontario boy who’s now on the west coast and ready for sailing, with a whopping 
to-do list to get through in the coming months. Wish me luck!

Chris


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Re: Stus-List Original Rig, - sailing conveniences

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Persistence had been set up for cruising when we bought her but also to be 
raced if desired.  The sails were carefully chosen by previous owner Rob in 
this manner.  Main is Quantum Fusion M6500.  It has carbon/vectran fibres 
sandwiched between two layers of taffeta.  Bulletproof but nice shape and 
reasonably fast.  Blade jib was set up for roller furling and is pentex 
sandwiched between two layers taffeta.  Is reasonably fast when the wind is up 
but too flat for the in between breezes.  Also came with a brand new asymmetric 
spin in removable ATN sock (along with an existing symmetric spin).  I mention 
these sails because they were bought to last for cruising but to be appealing 
to anyone who would eventually purchase the boat and want to race (that would 
be me).

There was also the lazy jacks, bimini, dodger, (both with almost new canvas), 
roller furling, non roller furling racing sails in bags, lazy jacks, two 
collapsible water tanks, pressurized hot/cold water, cockpit shower, oversized 
head compartment, oversized head, oversized 3 burner oven, refrigeration under 
motor and at shore, oversized motor.  This was a boat set up for cruising but 
not to the extent it would become unappealing to a racer.

Our challenge was how to incorporate the best of the cruising with the best of 
the racing features.  We have done ok in this regard and added some new sails, 
extra ST winches, upgraded electronics (there were also some very nice and new 
electronics with the boat) and then determined ways to have the lazy jacks 
attached to mast but not to boom when racing yet available for cruising etc ….  
Has been interesting

The boat was advertised as being able to go from cruise mode to race mode in 10 
minutes or less.  HA!

Last week we were in full on cruise mode.  Between Sunday and Monday had to get 
back to race mode.

-Remove bimini

-Remove dodger

-Unbend roller furling 100% headsail.  Remove feeder from foil and drop 
RF collar and then reinstall feeder

-Remove BBQ

-Remove OB motor mounted on pushpit

-Empty both water tanks

-Put genoas and symmetric spin back on board

-Unbend old main

-Bend on newer main

I don’t even remember the rest but suffice it to say it took more than ten 
minutes.  And now we have to reverse all that the day after a regatta to go 
cruising the next day.

Sorry for the rambling email.  It runs in the family

Instead of this boat we could have purchased a sporty racing boat.  One that 
does not have overlapping genoas.  It would be amazingly quick at mark 
roundings, tacking, accelerating and simply exhilarating to sail.  However I 
surely would miss the bother of getting the boat ready and then embarking on an 
extended stay on the boat, using the bimini for shade or connecting to the 
dodger to get out of the rain.  Having hot coffee in the morning and being able 
to wash up the dishes on board with hot water rather than dragging them to a 
public washroom.  I would also not miss having to drag bag after bag of 
constantly melting ice aboard and yet still manage to have refrigerated food 
and beverages, etc …

Yup – I like most here prefer the good old racer / cruiser.  Even if it can be 
a pain to tack the large genoas and it is a constant PITA to always find enough 
people to run it properly for a race.

Mike
Persistence
1987 (that’s 30 years!) Frers 33
Halifax, NS
http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of RANDY via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2017 1:02 AM
To: cnc-list
Cc: RANDY
Subject: Re: Stus-List Original Rig, (was US Watercraft receivership)

Grenadine's rig and deck hardware is all-original, old-school.  No furler, lazy 
jacks, self-tailing winches, rope clutches.  My crew has to grind and tail and 
cleat to horn cleats, and flake sails manually.  For two years they didn't know 
any better because they're newbies :)  But one of them jumped on a shorthanded 
competitor's boat the other week and came back jealous of his furler and 
self-tailing winches.  In defense I had to explain how much it would cost to 
upgrade :)  I'd rather spend the money on new sails.  While I can appreciate 
the merits of all those conveniences especially for leisure sailing, for racing 
I like being able to make a last-minute headsail choice right before leaving 
the dock, or even changing the headsail on the fly.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO
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Re: Stus-List mast gate

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Try tomlu...@gmail.com or MastGates.com. I corresponded with him a couple
of years ago but never bought anything. - Ron

On Jul 21, 2017 3:25 PM, "William Walker via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Can anyone give me ideas how to pattern a mast gate so I could get someone
> to machine from aluminum..Tired of feeding without a mast gate..
> Bill Walker
> CnC 36
> Pentwater, Mi
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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