Stus-List More Pictures

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Listers-

With all humility due of a C owner :) I’ve added two more pictures of 
Grenadine to the end of 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTVnJfSm9lRnZNa1E.  In the first 
one, Trish Dishman captured me leaving the Chatfield Marina channel with Mt. 
Morrison and a nice thunderhead in the background.  The world-famous Red Rocks 
Amphitheater sits at the foot of Mt. Morrison (to the left of Grenadine’s 
mast).  That picture shows how beamy a 30-1 is.  In other words, my girl has a 
wide midsection.  She’s built for comfort *and* speed.  Two Saturday mornings 
ago I saw 7+ knots on the SailTimer app in 20 knots apparent wind (close 
reach).  The second picture, also courtesy Trish Dishman, was on the afternoon 
I discovered my batteries were dead.  But conditions were perfect for leaving 
the slip under sail power, so I did.  Colorado Sail and Yacht Club was taking 
out a Boy Scout troop, so I had some pressure on :)  Even though we’ve only got 
lakes to sail on in Colorado, you can see we’ve got some beauty around.

Cheers,
Randy
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 37+ heat

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

How about the diesel stove/oven combo with heater lid?  This would be a
direct replacement for the Force 10 3 burner/oven you probably have.  It
would fit in the same footprint.

- The optional butcher block lid closes and starts a fan which blows air
over the ceramic cook top.  The warm discharge air heats the cabin.
- It would allow you to eliminate the explosion hazards of propane.
- It would make availability of fuel much better since it sips only 3 oz
per hour from the boat's diesel fuel tank.
- You could convert your propane locker in to an ice box/cooler for readily
accessible drinks, or maybe a live well, or just simply another storage
compartment.

http://www.wallas.fi/index.php?id=56

It is absolutely what I will buy when I'm out of projects and have too many
boat bucks laying around.  As it is now I just don't have very many
situations where I'm on the boat, away from the slip, and it is cold.
While in the slip a little 1500w ceramic heater works pretty good for
heating up the cabin.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Aug 28, 2017 10:04 PM, "Len Mitchell via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I am considering some auxiliary heat, either a Dickinson propane fireplace
> or a diesel forced air unit like an Espar. I guess I am looking for the
> best fit for our 37+ but leaning towards a propane fireplace. Both have
> advantages. What do you guys think?
> Len Mitchell
> Crazy Legs
> 1989 37+
>
>
> Sent from my mobile device.
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 37+ heat

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

I liked the Wallas furnace I had on Pegasus. Constant even heat. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Len Mitchell via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/28/17  19:04  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Len Mitchell  Subject: 
Stus-List 37+ heat 
I am considering some auxiliary heat, either a Dickinson propane fireplace or a 
diesel forced air unit like an Espar. I guess I am looking for the best fit for 
our 37+ but leaning towards a propane fireplace. Both have advantages. What do 
you guys think? 
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs 
1989 37+


Sent from my mobile device. 
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 1980 Water Systems Questions

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Hi Michael,
I was going to disagree with you, but I thought back to my 1977 C 27 MKIII, 
and remember the inside of the tank was smooth and white, rather than yellowish 
PTFE like my 1994 C 37/40+.
So, for your application, I was dead wrong.
I would suspect.a bad fitting rather than a cracked tank.
Good luck, 
Bruce.


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Michael Brown via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/28/17  10:19 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Michael Brown  Subject: Re: Stus-List 
1980 Water Systems Questions 
The tanks on my '77 C 30 are fiberglass and built with the hull as part of 
the tank. The top of the
forward tank is also the base of the V-berth. There are removable round access 
ports and a screwed
down access panel on both tanks.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1


Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2017 20:23:56 -0400

From: Chad Osmond 



I did repair the tanks on our '90 30-2 by drilling out the crack, flame

treatment and GFlex. I repaired it last year and kept the tank full this

year with no issues.



Chad



On Aug 28, 2017 8:21 PM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" <

cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:



> If you look back in the archives, there was discussions on water tanks

> repair within the last 4 weeks.

>

> If you have a leak at the fitting, possibly, you may just need to replace

> it.

>

> I had some surprisingly good results with a Bondic welding kit.
>

> And yes, most sinks drain directly overboard.

>

> Marek

>

>

> *From: *Chris Hobson via CnC-List 

> *Sent: *Monday, August 28, 2017 20:07

>

> Recently filled up the V birth water tank and discovered a slow leak. PO

> left it empty and now I know why. This eventually drained everything into

> my bilge, as the tank is now empty and the bilge is full. So that needs to

> be fixed. Has anyone repaired a plastic water tank before, or do you

> typically replace them? it looks like the leak comes from one of the

> fittings fastened to the tank.

>

> Second question which I'm sure most of you could answer, does the sink in

> the head generally drain into the holding tank or go overboard? from what I

> can see the sink drains directly into a seacock fastened to the hull.

>

> Chris Hobson

> s/v "Going"

> 1980 C 30 MKI

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 1980 Water Systems Questions

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

The tanks on my '77 C 30 are fiberglass and built with the hull as part of 
the tank. The top of the
forward tank is also the base of the V-berth. There are removable round access 
ports and a screwed
down access panel on both tanks.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1



Date: Mon, 28 Aug 2017 20:23:56 -0400 
From: Chad Osmond  
 
I did repair the tanks on our '90 30-2 by drilling out the crack, flame 
treatment and GFlex. I repaired it last year and kept the tank full this 
year with no issues. 
 
Chad 
 
On Aug 28, 2017 8:21 PM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: 
 
> If you look back in the archives, there was discussions on water tanks 
> repair within the last 4 weeks. 
> 
> If you have a leak at the fitting, possibly, you may just need to replace 
> it. 
> 
> I had some surprisingly good results with a Bondic welding kit.
> 
> And yes, most sinks drain directly overboard. 
> 
> Marek 
> 
> 
> *From: *Chris Hobson via CnC-List  
> *Sent: *Monday, August 28, 2017 20:07 
> 
> Recently filled up the V birth water tank and discovered a slow leak. PO 
> left it empty and now I know why. This eventually drained everything into 
> my bilge, as the tank is now empty and the bilge is full. So that needs to 
> be fixed. Has anyone repaired a plastic water tank before, or do you 
> typically replace them? it looks like the leak comes from one of the 
> fittings fastened to the tank. 
> 
> Second question which I'm sure most of you could answer, does the sink in 
> the head generally drain into the holding tank or go overboard? from what I 
> can see the sink drains directly into a seacock fastened to the hull. 
> 
> Chris Hobson 
> s/v "Going" 
> 1980 C 30 MKI 
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List 37+ heat

[Len Mitchell via CnC-List]

I am considering some auxiliary heat, either a Dickinson propane fireplace or a 
diesel forced air unit like an Espar. I guess I am looking for the best fit for 
our 37+ but leaning towards a propane fireplace. Both have advantages. What do 
you guys think? 
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs 
1989 37+


Sent from my mobile device. 
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Fw: Lessons learned from plastic welding water tank

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

In response to the prior post about fixing a leaking water tank, see my post 
below.
One final update.  An additional source I found around for LDPE was water 
softener bags.  I think it might be a little thin to effectively weld with, but 
if you run short, it's nice to know that the bag you threw in the recycling bin 
just might help finish off the process.
By the way, you should find that it will be relatively easy to remove the empty 
tank.
Good Luck! Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


 
- Forwarded Message -
 From: Bruce Whitmore 
 To: C List  
 Sent: Saturday, August 5, 2017 11:54 AM
 Subject: Lessons learned from plastic welding water tank
   
Hello all,
First, I want to thank everyone here for their help - it really gave me a jump 
start on fixing my water tank.  

Here's what I found:
   
   - The tank is definitely made of LDPE (low density polyethelene).  HDPE does 
NOT stick to it, so don't even begin to think that all polyethelene is the 
same.  You can weld LDPE to HDPE, but not HDPE to LDPE. 

   - Welding is the preferred method for fixing by comparison to epoxies 
designed to fix polyethelene.
   - I used a hot air blower welder from Harbor Freight Tools - it cost about 
$50.  In hindsight, I probably could have done a better job with one of their 
soldering iron type that heats a hot disk end.  Getting smooth melting of the 
rod into the tank plastic is very important, and I kept having issues with the 
plastic from the rods bubbling.  In the end, I took a torch, heated up an old 
putty knife, and using that to smooth the edges.  I'm sure this is partly 
because I don't get along particularly well with welding and soldering.  It's 
the one task I have to teach myself to do better.  Ideally, I think I would 
have used the type of welder that feeds strips/rods through the tip of the 
welder, but that one was not immediately available. 

   - You want to weld the plastic with strips, not rods.  Strips are easier to 
work with.  If you can't find LDPE strips online, keep looking around the house 
for #4 recycleable plastic.  The only place I found it around our house was the 
snap-on tops to Tupperware type containers.  If you are buying strips, buy more 
than you think you'll need.  I bought 5' of strips, and I could easily have 
used 10 to lay on the thickness I wanted.
   - Practice welding HDPE, say with a cracked old paint bucket or something.  
HDPE is much easier to find around the house, as laundry detergent bottles, and 
just about every other piece of recyclable plastic (except clear bottles) is 
made from it.  Once you learn how to weld with HDPE, the process with LDPE is 
the same, and it will go much more smoothly.
   - Clean the tank with MEK.   I did it both before and after the 
grinding/sanding.
   - Using a dremel, grind out a groove (this is actually pretty important, so 
don't skip this step).  Even if you go through the tank, don't worry, you can 
build it up again with the strips.
   - Find a YouTube video or two to watch the process.
   - Sand the area with 80 grit sandpaper.
   - Drill a small hole at the ends of the cracks to keep the cracks from 
progressing
   - At the suggestion of another poster, I layed in a layer of stainless mesh 
over the crack thinking that if it cracked once, it might do so again, so 
reinforcing the area would be a good idea.  Time will tell.
   - Be sure to water test it before putting it back in the boat. 


Hoping this set of step-by-step instruction helps, Bruce Whitmore1994 C 37/40+
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


   ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Exaust elbow replacement

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

I was wondering if there could be a negative impact to use a Ss elbow that may 
not have the same internal dimension and thus affecting the flow and 
performance of the engine. But I may be overthinking this...

Other thoughts out there or experiences to share on this matter ?




Thanks



Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 33 mk II

New-Richmond, Qc

Bruno.

Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 28 août 2017 à 20:34, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
> a écrit :

We replaced ours 2 years ago – mechanic recommended the cast iron version, and 
not to use the stainless.  Don’t remember the exact reason why but believe it 
had to do with the rusting of the cast iron was indicative an internal issue



John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C 34
Noank, CT

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruno 
Lachance via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2017 10:15 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruno Lachance
Subject: Stus-List Exaust elbow replacement




Hi all,



I know from this list that i could replace my exaust elbow (yanmar 2 GM 20F) 
with a stainless steel copy available online. Is there a reason why i should go 
with an original yanmar part ? and if the collective wisdon is to replace with 
SS. Where is the best place to order if i'm in Canada. For both quality and 
price.





Thank you very much.



Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 33 mk II

New-Richmond, Qc

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Exaust elbow replacement

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

We replaced ours 2 years ago – mechanic recommended the cast iron version,
and not to use the stainless.  Don’t remember the exact reason why but
believe it had to do with the rusting of the cast iron was indicative an
internal issue

 

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruno
Lachance via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2017 10:15 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruno Lachance
Subject: Stus-List Exaust elbow replacement

 

 

Hi all,

 

I know from this list that i could replace my exaust elbow (yanmar 2 GM 20F)
with a stainless steel copy available online. Is there a reason why i should
go with an original yanmar part ? and if the collective wisdon is to replace
with SS. Where is the best place to order if i'm in Canada. For both quality
and price.

 

 

Thank you very much.

 

Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 33 mk II 

New-Richmond, Qc

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 1980 Water Systems Questions

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

I did repair the tanks on our '90 30-2 by drilling out the crack, flame
treatment and GFlex. I repaired it last year and kept the tank full this
year with no issues.

Chad

On Aug 28, 2017 8:21 PM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If you look back in the archives, there was discussions on water tanks
> repair within the last 4 weeks.
>
>
>
> If you have a leak at the fitting, possibly, you may just need to replace
> it.
>
>
>
> I had some surprisingly good results with a Bondic welding kit.
>
>
>
> And yes, most sinks drain directly overboard.
>
>
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail  for
> Windows 10
>
>
>
> *From: *Chris Hobson via CnC-List 
> *Sent: *Monday, August 28, 2017 20:07
> *To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc: *Chris Hobson 
> *Subject: *Stus-List 1980 Water Systems Questions
>
>
> Recently filled up the V birth water tank and discovered a slow leak. PO
> left it empty and now I know why. This eventually drained everything into
> my bilge, as the tank is now empty and the bilge is full. So that needs to
> be fixed. Has anyone repaired a plastic water tank before, or do you
> typically replace them? it looks like the leak comes from one of the
> fittings fastened to the tank.
>
> Second question which I'm sure most of you could answer, does the sink in
> the head generally drain into the holding tank or go overboard? from what I
> can see the sink drains directly into a seacock fastened to the hull.
>
> Chris Hobson
> s/v "Going"
> 1980 C 30 MKI
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone.
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 1980 Water Systems Questions

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

If you look back in the archives, there was discussions on water tanks repair 
within the last 4 weeks.



If you have a leak at the fitting, possibly, you may just need to replace it.



I had some surprisingly good results with a Bondic welding kit.



And yes, most sinks drain directly overboard.



Marek



Sent from Mail for Windows 10



From: Chris Hobson via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2017 20:07
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chris Hobson
Subject: Stus-List 1980 Water Systems Questions



Recently filled up the V birth water tank and discovered a slow leak. PO left 
it empty and now I know why. This eventually drained everything into my bilge, 
as the tank is now empty and the bilge is full. So that needs to be fixed. Has 
anyone repaired a plastic water tank before, or do you typically replace them? 
it looks like the leak comes from one of the fittings fastened to the tank.

Second question which I'm sure most of you could answer, does the sink in the 
head generally drain into the holding tank or go overboard? from what I can see 
the sink drains directly into a seacock fastened to the hull.

Chris Hobson
s/v "Going"
1980 C 30 MKI




Sent from my iPhone.
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List 1980 Water Systems Questions

[Chris Hobson via CnC-List]

Recently filled up the V birth water tank and discovered a slow leak. PO left 
it empty and now I know why. This eventually drained everything into my bilge, 
as the tank is now empty and the bilge is full. So that needs to be fixed. Has 
anyone repaired a plastic water tank before, or do you typically replace them? 
it looks like the leak comes from one of the fittings fastened to the tank. 

Second question which I'm sure most of you could answer, does the sink in the 
head generally drain into the holding tank or go overboard? from what I can see 
the sink drains directly into a seacock fastened to the hull. 

Chris Hobson
s/v "Going"
1980 C 30 MKI




Sent from my iPhone.
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 44 twin adjustable backstays

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

That’s quite a word of caution.

The other thing you don’t want to do is tack with the babystay on.  It won’t 
bring the mast down, but it sure does cause problems.

From: Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2017 4:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Fred Hazzard 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 44 twin adjustable backstays


Dan,  in the 10 years I've sailed my 44 I have rarely found I need to use the 
running  back stays.  In those few time I needed them the wind was blowing hard 
and I had a lot of the back stay on to bend the mast to shape the main and 
straighten the forestay.  At the same time we were sailing into good size waves 
that caused the mast to pump forward every time we bore into one.  Remember you 
will only use one running back at a time.  You will have to switch sides each 
time to tack.  You can further stabilize the mast by using the baby stay,   A 
word of caution,  if you have a lot of back stay on and a lot of running back 
on and baby stay on after you have dropped the sails be sure to ease the 
running back, as suddenly releasing it can bring the mast down.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or

 Virus-free. www.avast.com  


On Mon, Aug 28, 2017 at 12:10 PM, Dan via CnC-List  
wrote:

  I just started sailing Breakaweigh and I've been slightly tensioning the twin 
adjustable backstays with each tack thinking there is a reason for doing this 
but it was brought to my attention by a fellow sailor that these extra 
backstays are not necessarily needed unless I'm running a stay sail or adding 
some other form of forward tension to the middle of the mast. There is an inner 
forestay that only goes a short way up the front of the mast and is not meant 
to be used for a stay sail and I have no spinnaker. I only plan to cruise this 
on this boat for now and I will be reefing from time to time which could create 
more force lower on the mast. How important are these adjustable backstays or 
should I just clip them off to the side and clear them from my everyday rig? 

  Thanks guys,

  Dan
  1986 C

  Halifax, NS

  ___

  This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

  All Contributions are greatly appreciated!






___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 44 twin adjustable backstays

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Dan,  in the 10 years I've sailed my 44 I have rarely found I need to use
the running  back stays.  In those few time I needed them the wind was
blowing hard and I had a lot of the back stay on to bend the mast to shape
the main and straighten the forestay.  At the same time we were sailing
into good size waves that caused the mast to pump forward every time we
bore into one.  Remember you will only use one running back at a time.  You
will have to switch sides each time to tack.  You can further stabilize the
mast by using the baby stay,   A word of caution,  if you have a lot of
back stay on and a lot of running back on and baby stay on after you have
dropped the sails be sure to ease the running back, as suddenly releasing
it can bring the mast down.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or


Virus-free.
www.avast.com

<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Mon, Aug 28, 2017 at 12:10 PM, Dan via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I just started sailing Breakaweigh and I've been slightly tensioning the
> twin adjustable backstays with each tack thinking there is a reason for
> doing this but it was brought to my attention by a fellow sailor that these
> extra backstays are not necessarily needed unless I'm running a stay sail
> or adding some other form of forward tension to the middle of the mast.
> There is an inner forestay that only goes a short way up the front of the
> mast and is not meant to be used for a stay sail and I have no spinnaker. I
> only plan to cruise this on this boat for now and I will be reefing from
> time to time which could create more force lower on the mast. How important
> are these adjustable backstays or should I just clip them off to the side
> and clear them from my everyday rig?
>
> Thanks guys,
>
> Dan
> 1986 C
> Halifax, NS
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 44 twin adjustable backstays

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Those are running back stays. Matt is correct.  In heavy weather you might
use the, but for cruising get them out of the way.

Joel

On Mon, Aug 28, 2017 at 3:23 PM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My understanding is that the babystay and adjustable backstays (which
> attach about 2/3 of the way up) are intended to keep the mast from pumping
> in heavy seas.  With a bendy mast you could also use them to adjust sail
> shape, but my mast is about as bendy as a telephone pole.
>
> *From:* Dan via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, August 28, 2017 3:10 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Dan 
> *Subject:* Stus-List C 44 twin adjustable backstays
>
> I just started sailing Breakaweigh and I've been slightly tensioning the
> twin adjustable backstays with each tack thinking there is a reason for
> doing this but it was brought to my attention by a fellow sailor that these
> extra backstays are not necessarily needed unless I'm running a stay sail
> or adding some other form of forward tension to the middle of the mast.
> There is an inner forestay that only goes a short way up the front of the
> mast and is not meant to be used for a stay sail and I have no spinnaker. I
> only plan to cruise this on this boat for now and I will be reefing from
> time to time which could create more force lower on the mast. How important
> are these adjustable backstays or should I just clip them off to the side
> and clear them from my everyday rig?
>
> Thanks guys,
>
> Dan
> 1986 C
> Halifax, NS
>
> --
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 44 twin adjustable backstays

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

My understanding is that the babystay and adjustable backstays (which attach 
about 2/3 of the way up) are intended to keep the mast from pumping in heavy 
seas.  With a bendy mast you could also use them to adjust sail shape, but my 
mast is about as bendy as a telephone pole.   

From: Dan via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2017 3:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Dan 
Subject: Stus-List C 44 twin adjustable backstays

I just started sailing Breakaweigh and I've been slightly tensioning the twin 
adjustable backstays with each tack thinking there is a reason for doing this 
but it was brought to my attention by a fellow sailor that these extra 
backstays are not necessarily needed unless I'm running a stay sail or adding 
some other form of forward tension to the middle of the mast. There is an inner 
forestay that only goes a short way up the front of the mast and is not meant 
to be used for a stay sail and I have no spinnaker. I only plan to cruise this 
on this boat for now and I will be reefing from time to time which could create 
more force lower on the mast. How important are these adjustable backstays or 
should I just clip them off to the side and clear them from my everyday rig? 

Thanks guys,

Dan
1986 C

Halifax, NS



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List C 44 twin adjustable backstays

[Dan via CnC-List]

I just started sailing Breakaweigh and I've been slightly tensioning the
twin adjustable backstays with each tack thinking there is a reason for
doing this but it was brought to my attention by a fellow sailor that these
extra backstays are not necessarily needed unless I'm running a stay sail
or adding some other form of forward tension to the middle of the mast.
There is an inner forestay that only goes a short way up the front of the
mast and is not meant to be used for a stay sail and I have no spinnaker. I
only plan to cruise this on this boat for now and I will be reefing from
time to time which could create more force lower on the mast. How important
are these adjustable backstays or should I just clip them off to the side
and clear them from my everyday rig?

Thanks guys,

Dan
1986 C
Halifax, NS
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Exaust elbow replacement

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Hi all,


I know from this list that i could replace my exaust elbow (yanmar 2 GM 20F) 
with a stainless steel copy available online. Is there a reason why i should go 
with an original yanmar part ? and if the collective wisdon is to replace with 
SS. Where is the best place to order if i'm in Canada. For both quality and 
price.



Thank you very much.


Bruno Lachance

Bécassine, 33 mk II

New-Richmond, Qc

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List wheel squeak

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Bruce,

 

I’d go 100% with Edson even if more expensive.  They are a quality and customer 
oriented company.

 

We’re fortunate to be close to Edson.  My wife needed help stitching on a 
replacement wheel cover.  They offered to have me bring the wheel to them and 
then demonstrated how to do it.  When I rebuilt my 37+’s steering, they had the 
details on my system including the designer of the boat.  I overheard, “Hey 
Rob, we have one of your boats”.  When I ordered a few small parts on line 
which cost less than the shipping, someone called me to say the order was no 
charge.  

 

Little things matter.  For example, the stainless steel steering cables are cut 
to length with a torch (similar to cutting line with a hot knife) so the ends 
don’t unwind.

 

There are very few businesses like Edson around anymore.  

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 



 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2017 9:20 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak

 

This brings up a good point - As for the cables, where would folks here buy 
them?  Directly from Edson (expensive) or is there a less expensive, but still 
good quality alternative (say from McMaster Carr, Grainger, etc.)?

 

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
  bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Storm Harvey

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

The movement of this storm is not very predictable.  It will be several more 
days until a path can be determined.
Frank 

On Sunday, August 27, 2017 9:16 PM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Dennis, you're rightif this prediction is true, Harvey will end up 
directly over top of us in Louisville, KY by next Friday-Saturday...!
 
 
Richard
Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Sent: Fri, Aug 25, 2017 7:57 pm
Subject: Stus-List Storm Harvey

Interesting.  Go here:  https://www.windy.com/?29.310,-94.285,7
Click the "Play" arrow at the bottom.
Dennis C.___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


   ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Diesel Spill

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

A rundown of bilge cleaners can be found here:
https://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/32_3/features/5247-1.html

Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 LF
Padanaram, MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 28, 2017, at 8:47 AM, robert via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> A few weeks ago, I spilled approx. a half a cup or 200 mls of diesel in the 
> engine compartment that made its way under the cabin floor boards to the 
> bilge.  I have flushed several times with Dawn liquid detergent and hot 
> water, however, there is still a trace of the diesel which I would like to 
> eliminate.
> 
> Every time a pump the bilge now, there is a hint of fuel in the discharge 
> which is annoying to all.
> 
> Is there a specific product anyone has used successfully to eliminate the 
> diesel that is more effective than liquid soap?
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Diesel Spill

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Have used citrus degreaser (ZEP orange) in a spray bottle for surface 
degreasing with good results.  Available at Home Depot.

Dave

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 28, 2017, at 9:04 AM, Marek Dziedzic  wrote:
> 
> Rob,
>  
> the absorbent pads can collect the fuel (and they don’t absorb water). I had 
> very good results with these: 
> http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/gas-guzzler-sweep-hydrocarbon-absorbing-pad-0381326p.html.
>  They come in at least two sizes; the large (and thick) one and smaller (and 
> more useful) (at the link).
>  
> If you are looking at eliminating the odours, then there is the Pure Ayre 
> (http://www.pureayrecanada.com/products/marine/) product that does a decent 
> job.
>  
> good luck
>  
> Marek
> 1994 C270 Legato
> Ottawa, ON
>  
> From: robert via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, August 28, 2017 08:48
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: robert
> Subject: Stus-List Diesel Spill
>  
> A few weeks ago, I spilled approx. a half a cup or 200 mls of diesel in 
> the engine compartment that made its way under the cabin floor boards to 
> the bilge.  I have flushed several times with Dawn liquid detergent and 
> hot water, however, there is still a trace of the diesel which I would 
> like to eliminate.
> 
> Every time a pump the bilge now, there is a hint of fuel in the 
> discharge which is annoying to all.
> 
> Is there a specific product anyone has used successfully to eliminate 
> the diesel that is more effective than liquid soap?
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Diesel Spill

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Rob,

the absorbent pads can collect the fuel (and they don’t absorb water). I had 
very good results with these: 
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/gas-guzzler-sweep-hydrocarbon-absorbing-pad-0381326p.html.
 They come in at least two sizes; the large (and thick) one and smaller (and 
more useful) (at the link).

If you are looking at eliminating the odours, then there is the Pure Ayre 
(http://www.pureayrecanada.com/products/marine/) product that does a decent job.

good luck

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON

From: robert via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2017 08:48
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Diesel Spill

A few weeks ago, I spilled approx. a half a cup or 200 mls of diesel in
the engine compartment that made its way under the cabin floor boards to
the bilge.  I have flushed several times with Dawn liquid detergent and
hot water, however, there is still a trace of the diesel which I would
like to eliminate.

Every time a pump the bilge now, there is a hint of fuel in the
discharge which is annoying to all.

Is there a specific product anyone has used successfully to eliminate
the diesel that is more effective than liquid soap?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Diesel Spill

[robert via CnC-List]

A few weeks ago, I spilled approx. a half a cup or 200 mls of diesel in 
the engine compartment that made its way under the cabin floor boards to 
the bilge.  I have flushed several times with Dawn liquid detergent and 
hot water, however, there is still a trace of the diesel which I would 
like to eliminate.


Every time a pump the bilge now, there is a hint of fuel in the 
discharge which is annoying to all.


Is there a specific product anyone has used successfully to eliminate 
the diesel that is more effective than liquid soap?


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 1983 C 35 mark 3 new purchase

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Yes - I eat well

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of G Collins 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2017 10:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: G Collins
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1983 C 35 mark 3 new purchase


It must be a mid-atlantic thing, we further north know there are a couple of 
non C owners around here that are on the list, but they are good folks so not 
worth the trouble of keelhauling.  Plus Mike is bigger than me.

Graham Collins

Secret Plans

C 35-III #11
On 2017-08-25 5:56 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:
Jerry,

You said: "may stop by for the rendezvous.  "

If they let you... I was threatened by keelhauling, when I admitted that I sold 
my old C 24 and bought a Catalina 270. This list is awesome, but some folks 
are pretty vicious (-;).

Good luck

Marek
1994 c270 Legato
Ottawa, on

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Jerome Tauber via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2017 10:18
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jerome Tauber
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1983 C 35 mark 3 new purchase

I owned a C 24, 29-2 and 27-5.   I just sold my 27-5 and bought a Hunter 37.5 
1993 with a friend.  We wanted a boat that had two private berths.  He is more 
of a cruiser and I like a performance boat.  We looked at a number of boats.  
My first choice was a Tartan 372 but we compromised on the Hunter.  It had a 
reputation for being a good sailor and the interior volume is enormous for a 37 
foot boat.  It has a compromised 5' wing keel.  I've sailed it all season and 
can say it is definitely not a C  Off the wind and on a broad reach it 
performs very well but does not point as well as a C with a fin. It has a J 
boat type rig.  Huge mainsail and small fractional head sail with a bendy 
tapered mast.  Sails are old and it needs some go fast upgrades such as a 
backstay adjuster, folding prop and rigid vang.  The aft cabin is huge and well 
ventilated.  And of course the price is well below a C of that era.  I'm just 
across Gardners Bay from Greenport and may stop by for the rendezvous.   Jerry

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 25, 2017, at 8:51 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
> wrote:

If you look at any recent CatBenHun in the 34-36 foot range, any version of the 
C 35 is going to seem quite small and cramped. Any of the 35s will of course 
sail 10x better, but that does not always matter to some people.

Warning - the "have to have it" aft double bunk under the cockpit is a long way 
from the air coming down the forward hatch and right next to the hot engine. It 
may not be the cruising paradise your wife thinks it is ;)



Joe

Coquina

C 35 MK I

On 08/25/2017 07:41 AM, G Collins via CnC-List wrote:

My wife and I love cruising our 35-3, what do you see as deficiencies?

Graham Collins

Secret Plans

C 35-III #11


From: Dave via CnC-List 
To: schiller 
Cc: davidjaco...@comcast.net; 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2017 1:55 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1983 C 35 mark 3 new purchase

Congrats on the C 35 MK3. I own a 1984 MK3, am in 1st place in our Wednesday 
night racing series and enjoy the boat immensely. It's a pleasure to sail.

My wife, the boss doesn't race and would like to have more of a "cruiser". So 
although this will be a very hard decision for me I may be putting the boat up 
for sale in the fall.

Best of luck,

Dave J
Saltaire
C 35 MK3
Bristol, RI



From: "schiller via CnC-List" 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "schiller" 

Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2017 2:21:52 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1983 C 35 mark 3 new purchase

Well, we went to Charlevoix to look at the 1981 C 32.  Not the boat for us.  
Interior has not been taken care of.  Buckets under the portlights to catch the 
leaks, forward hatch so crazed that it looks like it might break with a big 
rain drop, floor so bad that it was mushy in front the mast and head door.  Too 
bad really, it was really a nice layout.

So, called the owner of the 35 and negotiated a deal over the phone.  We will 
soon be the proud owners of a 1983 C 35, Mark III.  I talked with the 
surveyor that did the previous survey.  He has retired but has agreed to do an 
incremental survey.

Neil Schiller
Soon to be 1983 C 35, Mark III
Currently "Grace"
In Muskegon to be relocated to White Lake, Michigan

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 23, 2017, at 10:45 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
> wrote:

Re: Stus-List wheel squeak - Follow up/Resolution

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all,
I thought I would let you know what I found when I tracked down our 
creaking/crunching sound when we turned the wheel on our 1994 C 37/40+.  
According to the survey, the drive wheel at the rudder post had been recently 
replaced.  When I went and looked at the idlers and the drive wheel, the wheel 
was slightly out of alignment.  So, when the wheel was moved, the cable lightly 
rubbed the edge of the wheel ring, and the resulting noise was actually much 
worse than one would imagine.  

Once I backed off the bolts and slightly raised the drive wheel, the noise went 
away.
FYI, I also found a loose idler pulley mounting nut, and also found the idler 
axles are stainless pins. 

In the end, a very easy fix.
Thanks for insights everyone! 
 Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Cc: Bruce Whitmore 
 Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2017 9:20 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak
   
This brings up a good point - As for the cables, where would folks here buy 
them?  Directly from Edson (expensive) or is there a less expensive, but still 
good quality alternative (say from McMaster Carr, Grainger, etc.)?
 Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: svpegasus38 via CnC-List 
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Cc: svpegasus38 
 Sent: Saturday, August 26, 2017 2:08 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak
  
Had a similar thing happen sailing to Hawaii few years ago on a 1973 Ericson 
35. 500 miles from Hilo I had a steering cable break. Dug out the emergency 
tiller, and continued to sail. No anchoring here, lol. Figured out it was 
almost impossible to steer a course while looking aft at the compass, chart 
plotter was to slow to steer by. We hove to, changed the cable and sailed off 
into the sun set, well it did take all day to get to the sun set. Next morning 
at 5am the other cable broke. This time the capt was at the helm and the seas 
were in the neighborhood of 20ft instead of 4 like the day before. Hove to 
again changed the second cable. The owner had changed out the cable 3 years 
before using hardware store wire rope. I heard from a friend, who sailed back 
to Victoria, that the cables broke again. My thought was that he had too stuff 
of cable for the sheave  diameter. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: ahycrace via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/25/17 20:08 (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: ahycrace  Subject: Re: Stus-List 
wheel squeak 
Sailing down Narragansett bay a few years ago broad reach 7kts we hear a loud 
BANG and no steering. Get the sails down and anchor. We look under the cockpit 
and see that the idler plate is so rusted that one of the pullys has pulled 
right off. Get the emergency tiller out and attach it motor homea very bad 
day! Check that plate and all of the attached pullys. Edson has all the 
replacements if needed. I have pics of the bad plate before i took it off. I 
can post them when we get home we are in Newport watching the J class boats 
race.  
Gary. "Liberty"  38' Mk ll


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/24/17 10:08 AM (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chuck Gilchrest  Subject: 
Re: Stus-List wheel squeak 
Richard,Make sure to use a non-petroleum based lubricant for the bearings that 
support the wheel shaft (such as Superlube or other Teflon based grease).  
Don’t squirt WD-40 or any light weight spray  lubricant into the grease holes 
as it will tend to flush any lube out of the nylon caged bearings.  You can 
also check to see if the bearings are worn if you can move the wheel shaft up 
and down, or side to side.  There should be no play in the shaft at all..  
Edson does sell a “pedestal rebuild kit” that includes bearings, circlips and 
all the other thrust washers and replacement components for the wheel shaft.  
If you go down that road, I’d also take the time to replace the brake shoes if 
everything else is apart.  The other possibility for your squeaky noise is the 
sheave pins (axles) for the bronze idler wheels.  They ride on plain bushings 
and in the “old days” the axles were also bronze, which will wear out 
eventually and allow the sheaves to go flying into the bilge under tension at 
the worst possible time.  If those have never been checked, replaced with 
stainless pins, or lubricated as described in Edson’s steering maintenance 
instructions, I would certainly do so.  Once the sheave pins wear, the sheaves 
go out of alignment and the squeaking you hear may be the axles getting ready