Re: Stus-List C 35 MK3 for sale

[Dave via CnC-List]

Thanks Ron,
I remember seeing you and waving.
Dave

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 8, 2017, at 8:00 PM, Ron Ricci  wrote:
> 
> Dave,
>  
> Your boat sailed by our mooring in Bristol last weekend.  It is a sharp 
> looking boat.  Good luck with selling it to a (lucky) new owner.
> Regards,
> Ron
> Ron Ricci
> S/V Patriot
> C 37+
> Bristol, RI
> 
> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, September 7, 2017 3:34 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: davidjaco...@comcast.net
> Subject: Stus-List C 35 MK3 for sale
>  
> Fellow C owners,
>  
> After sailing her for 4 years Saltaire, my 1984 C 35 MK3 is going up for 
> sale.
>  
> Since I've owned her I've added the following;
>  
> 2014
> Rod Rigging
> Quantum Sails Main
> Quantum Sails 135%
>  
> 2015
> Raymarine aSeries Chart Plotter, GPS and Depth
> Raymarine i50 Speed
> Raymarine i60 Wind instrument
> NMEA2000 Network
> Pressure hot and cold water
> Bottom stripped, new barrier coat and paint
> Transmission rebuilt
> Port lights replaced
>  
> 2016
> 145% North 3D Headsail
> 2 blade FlexFold prop
>  
> Next purchases would be new North racing main and new traveler cars.
>  
> Saltaire, located in Bristol RI sails beautifully and is very competitive at 
> her cruising class rating of 149. There are 3 spinnakers that unfortunately 
> I've not used but appear to be in very good condition. Asking price is $34K. 
> If anyone on the list is interested please let me know.
>  
> Dave J
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Re: Stus-List C 35 MK3 for sale

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Dave,

 

Your boat sailed by our mooring in Bristol last weekend.  It is a sharp looking 
boat.  Good luck with selling it to a (lucky) new owner.

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, September 7, 2017 3:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: davidjaco...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List C 35 MK3 for sale

 

Fellow C owners,

 

After sailing her for 4 years Saltaire, my 1984 C 35 MK3 is going up for 
sale. 

 

Since I've owned her I've added the following;

 

2014

Rod Rigging

Quantum Sails Main

Quantum Sails 135%

 

2015

Raymarine aSeries Chart Plotter, GPS and Depth

Raymarine i50 Speed

Raymarine i60 Wind instrument

NMEA2000 Network

Pressure hot and cold water

Bottom stripped, new barrier coat and paint

Transmission rebuilt

Port lights replaced

 

2016

145% North 3D Headsail

2 blade FlexFold prop

 

Next purchases would be new North racing main and new traveler cars.

 

Saltaire, located in Bristol RI sails beautifully and is very competitive at 
her cruising class rating of 149. There are 3 spinnakers that unfortunately 
I've not used but appear to be in very good condition. Asking price is $34K. If 
anyone on the list is interested please let me know.

 

Dave J

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Re: Stus-List Question about awlgrip hull pain

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

I had a 1977 27 for 16 years that was awgripped before I bought her in 2000.  
Looked great, tough as all get out and got compliments right up until the day I 
sold her.  Clean it up well and apply Poliglow.  Better than Gelcoat IMHO.  
Bruce Whitmore 1994 C 37/40+
Dodging Irma...


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: "Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List" 
 Date: 9/8/17  6:42 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
CnC-List@cnc-list.com Cc: "Lisle Kingery, PhD"  
Subject: Stus-List Question about awlgrip hull pain 
Hi all, 

I've come across this interesting 1990 c 30 mark ii but the hull has been 
painted with awlgrip. 
http://www.boats.com/sailing-boats/1990-c-c-fiberglass-30-6259222/#.WbMazdEpCfA

From what I'm reading about thisnpaint looks good for a couple years but then 
can be a real PITA and expensive long term. I searched the forum for related 
posts but didn't find much. Thoughts on whether folks think it's a really bad 
idea to have this paint on the hull? 
Apparently the broker thinks this is one of the last 30 mark iis of it's era 
made and it has a universal diesel.
Thanks,
Lisle
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Stus-List Question about awlgrip hull pain

[Lisle Kingery, PhD via CnC-List]

Hi all,

I've come across this interesting 1990 c 30 mark ii but the hull has been
painted with awlgrip.

http://www.boats.com/sailing-boats/1990-c-c-fiberglass-30-6259222/#.WbMazdEpCfA

>From what I'm reading about thisnpaint looks good for a couple years but
then can be a real PITA and expensive long term. I searched the forum for
related posts but didn't find much. Thoughts on whether folks think it's a
really bad idea to have this paint on the hull?

Apparently the broker thinks this is one of the last 30 mark iis of it's
era made and it has a universal diesel.

Thanks,

Lisle
___

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Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Moeller at Amazon.

Ed Levert
C 34 Briarpatch
New Orleans

On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 4:04 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> That was my point.  For $200 it isn't worth putting a decades old tank
> back in.
>
> When I bought Touche', it had a steel tank.  A buddy of mine gave me an
> almost new aluminum tank of the same profile.  I installed it.  After 4
> years I repowered and put in a plastic tank.  The aluminum tank was showing
> signs of pitting and corrosion after only 4 years.
>
> Accurately measure the old tank, the clearance above it and get an idea of
> space around it.  Go to Moeller's site and figure out the best fit.  My
> guess is a 19 gallon Moeller Marine 032519 but make sure.
>
> You can find them online easily.  eBay even has them.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 3:24 PM, robert  wrote:
>
>> For $200, I would simply forget putting the old tank back in even after a
>> good inspection.just the peace of mind is worth $200plus my labor
>> which can be obtained for adequate amounts of beer.
>>
>> Now, can I buy a new fuel tank locally or do I have to order from afar?
>>
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>
>> On 2017-09-08 5:07 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> Keep in mind that pitting may be on the inside from water in the
>> fuel/condensation.
>>
>> A new plastic tank is under $200.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>> On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 3:00 PM, robert via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> That's what it looks likealuminum, rounded corners, welded
>>> ends.I have yet to actually measure it but I am guessing it it approx.
>>> 24" wide, maybe 20" deep and 18" height..I think it is the original 20
>>> gallon tank that sits on an open wooden frame (ends on the wooden ledge(s)
>>> ) with most of the bottom exposedthe bottom that is exposed looks fine
>>> but it is what I can not see that I would like to inspect.it's the
>>> welded ends on the bottom where the tank fits on the wooden frame that is
>>> my concern.
>>>
>>> The boat was in fresh water for its first 21 years.well
>>> maintainedsince I have owned it, the fuel tank is in a salt water
>>> environment but the tank has not been subjected to salt water on it.
>>>
>>> Empty it, remove it, clean it, inspect it.then make a decision about
>>> replacing it.  I may have just decided on a plan.
>>>
>>> Will keep you informed.
>>>
>>> Rob Abbott
>>> AZURA
>>> C 32 - 84
>>> Halifax, N.S.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On 2017-09-08 4:08 PM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List wrote:
>>>
 The standard tanks are aluminum, rounded corners, welded ends. It it
 looks like that, then that is what it is. Otherwise there was such a thing
 as special customer orders. I looked at at 35 once that had a cylindrical
 monel tank. Don't know it it was original or not, but it appeared to have
 been there for a while.

 Up to you, but I would remove it, clean it really good, and inspect it
 very carefully before making a decision to replace it. If salt water has
 been kept away the condition might surprise you.

 Advice is worth exactly what you pay for it.

 Steve Thomas
 C MKIII
 Port Stanley, ON

 C
 Merritt Island, FL

  robert via CnC-List  wrote:
 I am assuming the fuel tank on my 1984 is original..it is
 metal.not sure what the metal is.   Anyone know for sure what the
 fuel tank was made from?

 Given its age, I am considering removing it later in the Fall and
 inspecting it and possibly replacing it.

 Should I decide to replace it, what are my best options?  Where would I
 obtain a new fuel tank (20 gallons)?

 Any and all input greatly appreciated.

 Rob Abbott
 AZURA
 C 32 - 84
 Halifax, N.S.




 ___

 This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
 wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
 https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


 ___

 This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
 wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
 https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to 

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

That was my point.  For $200 it isn't worth putting a decades old tank back
in.

When I bought Touche', it had a steel tank.  A buddy of mine gave me an
almost new aluminum tank of the same profile.  I installed it.  After 4
years I repowered and put in a plastic tank.  The aluminum tank was showing
signs of pitting and corrosion after only 4 years.

Accurately measure the old tank, the clearance above it and get an idea of
space around it.  Go to Moeller's site and figure out the best fit.  My
guess is a 19 gallon Moeller Marine 032519 but make sure.

You can find them online easily.  eBay even has them.

Dennis C.

On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 3:24 PM, robert  wrote:

> For $200, I would simply forget putting the old tank back in even after a
> good inspection.just the peace of mind is worth $200plus my labor
> which can be obtained for adequate amounts of beer.
>
> Now, can I buy a new fuel tank locally or do I have to order from afar?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2017-09-08 5:07 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Keep in mind that pitting may be on the inside from water in the
> fuel/condensation.
>
> A new plastic tank is under $200.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 3:00 PM, robert via CnC-List  > wrote:
>
>> That's what it looks likealuminum, rounded corners, welded ends.I
>> have yet to actually measure it but I am guessing it it approx. 24" wide,
>> maybe 20" deep and 18" height..I think it is the original 20 gallon
>> tank that sits on an open wooden frame (ends on the wooden ledge(s) ) with
>> most of the bottom exposedthe bottom that is exposed looks fine but it
>> is what I can not see that I would like to inspect.it's the welded ends
>> on the bottom where the tank fits on the wooden frame that is my concern.
>>
>> The boat was in fresh water for its first 21 years.well
>> maintainedsince I have owned it, the fuel tank is in a salt water
>> environment but the tank has not been subjected to salt water on it.
>>
>> Empty it, remove it, clean it, inspect it.then make a decision about
>> replacing it.  I may have just decided on a plan.
>>
>> Will keep you informed.
>>
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 2017-09-08 4:08 PM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>>> The standard tanks are aluminum, rounded corners, welded ends. It it
>>> looks like that, then that is what it is. Otherwise there was such a thing
>>> as special customer orders. I looked at at 35 once that had a cylindrical
>>> monel tank. Don't know it it was original or not, but it appeared to have
>>> been there for a while.
>>>
>>> Up to you, but I would remove it, clean it really good, and inspect it
>>> very carefully before making a decision to replace it. If salt water has
>>> been kept away the condition might surprise you.
>>>
>>> Advice is worth exactly what you pay for it.
>>>
>>> Steve Thomas
>>> C MKIII
>>> Port Stanley, ON
>>>
>>> C
>>> Merritt Island, FL
>>>
>>>  robert via CnC-List  wrote:
>>> I am assuming the fuel tank on my 1984 is original..it is
>>> metal.not sure what the metal is.   Anyone know for sure what the
>>> fuel tank was made from?
>>>
>>> Given its age, I am considering removing it later in the Fall and
>>> inspecting it and possibly replacing it.
>>>
>>> Should I decide to replace it, what are my best options?  Where would I
>>> obtain a new fuel tank (20 gallons)?
>>>
>>> Any and all input greatly appreciated.
>>>
>>> Rob Abbott
>>> AZURA
>>> C 32 - 84
>>> Halifax, N.S.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  

Stus-List Fuel Tank

[robert via CnC-List]

For $200, I would simply forget putting the old tank back in even after 
a good inspection.just the peace of mind is worth $200plus my 
labor which can be obtained for adequate amounts of beer.


Now, can I buy a new fuel tank locally or do I have to order from afar?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2017-09-08 5:07 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
Keep in mind that pitting may be on the inside from water in the 
fuel/condensation.


A new plastic tank is under $200.

Dennis C.

On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 3:00 PM, robert via CnC-List 
> wrote:


That's what it looks likealuminum, rounded corners, welded
ends.I have yet to actually measure it but I am guessing it it
approx. 24" wide, maybe 20" deep and 18" height..I think it is
the original 20 gallon tank that sits on an open wooden frame
(ends on the wooden ledge(s) ) with most of the bottom
exposedthe bottom that is exposed looks fine but it is what I
can not see that I would like to inspect.it's the welded ends
on the bottom where the tank fits on the wooden frame that is my
concern.

The boat was in fresh water for its first 21 years.well
maintainedsince I have owned it, the fuel tank is in a salt
water environment but the tank has not been subjected to salt
water on it.

Empty it, remove it, clean it, inspect it.then make a decision
about replacing it.  I may have just decided on a plan.

Will keep you informed.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.





On 2017-09-08 4:08 PM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List wrote:

The standard tanks are aluminum, rounded corners, welded ends.
It it looks like that, then that is what it is. Otherwise
there was such a thing as special customer orders. I looked at
at 35 once that had a cylindrical monel tank. Don't know it it
was original or not, but it appeared to have been there for a
while.

Up to you, but I would remove it, clean it really good, and
inspect it very carefully before making a decision to replace
it. If salt water has been kept away the condition might
surprise you.

Advice is worth exactly what you pay for it.

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

C
Merritt Island, FL

 robert via CnC-List > wrote:
I am assuming the fuel tank on my 1984 is original..it is
metal.not sure what the metal is.   Anyone know for sure
what the
fuel tank was made from?

Given its age, I am considering removing it later in the Fall and
inspecting it and possibly replacing it.

Should I decide to replace it, what are my best options? Where
would I
obtain a new fuel tank (20 gallons)?

Any and all input greatly appreciated.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our
members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our
costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our
members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our
costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members.
If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go
to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Keep in mind that pitting may be on the inside from water in the
fuel/condensation.

A new plastic tank is under $200.

Dennis C.

On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 3:00 PM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> That's what it looks likealuminum, rounded corners, welded ends.I
> have yet to actually measure it but I am guessing it it approx. 24" wide,
> maybe 20" deep and 18" height..I think it is the original 20 gallon
> tank that sits on an open wooden frame (ends on the wooden ledge(s) ) with
> most of the bottom exposedthe bottom that is exposed looks fine but it
> is what I can not see that I would like to inspect.it's the welded ends
> on the bottom where the tank fits on the wooden frame that is my concern.
>
> The boat was in fresh water for its first 21 years.well
> maintainedsince I have owned it, the fuel tank is in a salt water
> environment but the tank has not been subjected to salt water on it.
>
> Empty it, remove it, clean it, inspect it.then make a decision about
> replacing it.  I may have just decided on a plan.
>
> Will keep you informed.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
>
>
> On 2017-09-08 4:08 PM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List wrote:
>
>> The standard tanks are aluminum, rounded corners, welded ends. It it
>> looks like that, then that is what it is. Otherwise there was such a thing
>> as special customer orders. I looked at at 35 once that had a cylindrical
>> monel tank. Don't know it it was original or not, but it appeared to have
>> been there for a while.
>>
>> Up to you, but I would remove it, clean it really good, and inspect it
>> very carefully before making a decision to replace it. If salt water has
>> been kept away the condition might surprise you.
>>
>> Advice is worth exactly what you pay for it.
>>
>> Steve Thomas
>> C MKIII
>> Port Stanley, ON
>>
>> C
>> Merritt Island, FL
>>
>>  robert via CnC-List  wrote:
>> I am assuming the fuel tank on my 1984 is original..it is
>> metal.not sure what the metal is.   Anyone know for sure what the
>> fuel tank was made from?
>>
>> Given its age, I am considering removing it later in the Fall and
>> inspecting it and possibly replacing it.
>>
>> Should I decide to replace it, what are my best options?  Where would I
>> obtain a new fuel tank (20 gallons)?
>>
>> Any and all input greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

The standard tanks are aluminum, rounded corners, welded ends. It it looks like 
that, then that is what it is. Otherwise there was such a thing as special 
customer orders. I looked at at 35 once that had a cylindrical monel tank. 
Don't know it it was original or not, but it appeared to have been there for a 
while. 

Up to you, but I would remove it, clean it really good, and inspect it very 
carefully before making a decision to replace it. If salt water has been kept 
away the condition might surprise you. 

Advice is worth exactly what you pay for it. 

Steve Thomas
C MKIII
Port Stanley, ON

C
Merritt Island, FL

 robert via CnC-List  wrote: 
I am assuming the fuel tank on my 1984 is original..it is 
metal.not sure what the metal is.   Anyone know for sure what the 
fuel tank was made from?

Given its age, I am considering removing it later in the Fall and 
inspecting it and possibly replacing it.

Should I decide to replace it, what are my best options?  Where would I 
obtain a new fuel tank (20 gallons)?

Any and all input greatly appreciated.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Replacing cabin sole - 35Mk III

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I put some PlasDek (exterior version of PlasTeak) on a deck hatch on a
Grand Banks trawler.  I was positively impressed with it.  Easy to work
with.  Pic here:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsV2NVZ1hmaGJ6cEU

Dennis C.

On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 2:02 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Has anyone tried the synthetic stuff (glued to marine ply)?
>
> *From:* Kevin Paxton via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Friday, September 08, 2017 2:51 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Kevin Paxton 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Replacing cabin sole - 35Mk III
>
> I got 2 sheets for my 34' Had quite a bit extra but it was a good thing. I
> had messed up on one of the pieces but had plenty left over to try again.
> Still have about a half a sheet left.
>
>
> Kevin Paxton
> '82 34 #473
> Japhys Spirit
> Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD
>
> On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 1:25 PM Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I’ve always had to buy two sheets for the cabin soles on my 37’ each time
>> I did it. I suspect that the MK III has almost as much surface area….
>>
>> Best,
>> Dave Godwin
>> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>>
>>
>> On Sep 8, 2017, at 12:22 PM, Indigo via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>> Improbably discussed many times, but could a 35 MkIII owner tell me how
>> many sheets of 4' x 8' of teak and holly I would need to replace the entire
>> cabin sole?
>>
>> --
>> Jonathan
>> Indigo C 35III
>> SOUTHPORT CT
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
> --
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Replacing cabin sole - 35Mk III

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Has anyone tried the synthetic stuff (glued to marine ply)?

From: Kevin Paxton via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, September 08, 2017 2:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Kevin Paxton 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing cabin sole - 35Mk III

I got 2 sheets for my 34' Had quite a bit extra but it was a good thing. I had 
messed up on one of the pieces but had plenty left over to try again. Still 
have about a half a sheet left. 


Kevin Paxton
'82 34 #473
Japhys Spirit
Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD

On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 1:25 PM Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
wrote:

  I’ve always had to buy two sheets for the cabin soles on my 37’ each time I 
did it. I suspect that the MK III has almost as much surface area…. 

  Best,

  Dave Godwin
  1982 C 37 - Ronin
  Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
  Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On Sep 8, 2017, at 12:22 PM, Indigo via CnC-List  
wrote:

Improbably discussed many times, but could a 35 MkIII owner tell me how 
many sheets of 4' x 8' of teak and holly I would need to replace the entire 
cabin sole?

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

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  All Contributions are greatly appreciated!




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Re: Stus-List Irma's Impact on Tortola

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

... and a stray dog.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 11:31 AM 08/09/2017, you wrote:

From what I can see in the pictire, it's mostly cats and power boats...



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
Doug Mountjoy
POYC
Pegasus
Lf38

 Original message 
From: robert via CnC-List 
Date: 9/8/17 07:09 (GMT-08:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Irma's Impact on Tortola

I have the before picture (too big for the C site) which shows all 
these charter boats lined up in a safe harbor to be protected from 
the hurricane..well that was the plan, sadly!


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2017-09-07 11:51 AM, Randal Stafford via CnC-List wrote:
This is a sad picture: 
http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2017/09/07/11/43FCB37F0578-4861184-Boats_piled_up_as_the_eye_of_Hurricane_Irma_passed_over_Tortola_-a-4_1504778890915.jpg 



Sadly,
Randy



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Re: Stus-List Replacing cabin sole - 35Mk III

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

I got 2 sheets for my 34' Had quite a bit extra but it was a good thing. I
had messed up on one of the pieces but had plenty left over to try again.
Still have about a half a sheet left.


Kevin Paxton
'82 34 #473
Japhys Spirit
Cornfield Creek, Magothy River, MD

On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 1:25 PM Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I’ve always had to buy two sheets for the cabin soles on my 37’ each time
> I did it. I suspect that the MK III has almost as much surface area….
>
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
> On Sep 8, 2017, at 12:22 PM, Indigo via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Improbably discussed many times, but could a 35 MkIII owner tell me how
> many sheets of 4' x 8' of teak and holly I would need to replace the entire
> cabin sole?
>
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Irma's Impact on Tortola

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

From what I can see in the pictire, it's mostly cats and power boats...


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 
 Original message From: robert via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/8/17  07:09  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: robert  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Irma's Impact on Tortola 

I have the before picture (too big for the C site) which shows
all these charter boats lined up in a safe harbor to be protected
from the hurricane..well that was the plan, sadly!



Rob Abbott

AZURA

C 32 - 84

Halifax, N.S.



On 2017-09-07 11:51 AM, Randal Stafford
  via CnC-List wrote:



  
  This is a sad picture: 
http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2017/09/07/11/43FCB37F0578-4861184-Boats_piled_up_as_the_eye_of_Hurricane_Irma_passed_over_Tortola_-a-4_1504778890915.jpg



Sadly,
Randy
  
  

  
  

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Re: Stus-List Replacing cabin sole - 35Mk III

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

I’ve always had to buy two sheets for the cabin soles on my 37’ each time I did 
it. I suspect that the MK III has almost as much surface area….

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Sep 8, 2017, at 12:22 PM, Indigo via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Improbably discussed many times, but could a 35 MkIII owner tell me how many 
> sheets of 4' x 8' of teak and holly I would need to replace the entire cabin 
> sole?
> 
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

You can see the level in Moeller tanks, not Plastimo.  The Plastimo tanks
are black.

Dennis C.

On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 11:49 AM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I put a plastic tank in place of the original aluminum, which had corroded
> through.  Can't remember from whom I got it, but it was a standard 15 gal
> tank that fit right in.
>
> Plastic is nice because you can see the fluid level in the tank.
>
> Neil  Gallagher
> Weatherly 35-1
> Glen Cove, NY
>
>
>
>
> On 9/8/2017 10:16 AM, robert via CnC-List wrote:
>
>> I am assuming the fuel tank on my 1984 is original..it is
>> metal.not sure what the metal is.   Anyone know for sure what the fuel
>> tank was made from?
>>
>> Given its age, I am considering removing it later in the Fall and
>> inspecting it and possibly replacing it.
>>
>> Should I decide to replace it, what are my best options?  Where would I
>> obtain a new fuel tank (20 gallons)?
>>
>> Any and all input greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

I put a plastic tank in place of the original aluminum, which had 
corroded through.  Can't remember from whom I got it, but it was a 
standard 15 gal tank that fit right in.


Plastic is nice because you can see the fluid level in the tank.

Neil  Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 9/8/2017 10:16 AM, robert via CnC-List wrote:
I am assuming the fuel tank on my 1984 is original..it is 
metal.not sure what the metal is.   Anyone know for sure what the 
fuel tank was made from?


Given its age, I am considering removing it later in the Fall and 
inspecting it and possibly replacing it.


Should I decide to replace it, what are my best options?  Where would 
I obtain a new fuel tank (20 gallons)?


Any and all input greatly appreciated.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




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Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Rob,

Is it a "standard" size?  If so, Moeller and/or Plastimo may have a direct
replacement.

I replaced Touche's tank with a Plastimo.  Would have preferred a Moeller
but availability was an issue.  The Moeller tanks are translucent.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 9:16 AM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I am assuming the fuel tank on my 1984 is original..it is
> metal.not sure what the metal is.   Anyone know for sure what the fuel
> tank was made from?
>
> Given its age, I am considering removing it later in the Fall and
> inspecting it and possibly replacing it.
>
> Should I decide to replace it, what are my best options?  Where would I
> obtain a new fuel tank (20 gallons)?
>
> Any and all input greatly appreciated.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List Replacing cabin sole - 35Mk III

[Indigo via CnC-List]

Improbably discussed many times, but could a 35 MkIII owner tell me how many 
sheets of 4' x 8' of teak and holly I would need to replace the entire cabin 
sole?

--
Jonathan
Indigo C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT

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Re: Stus-List teak wood to the cockpit

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

What about using NO screws and instead use VHB Tape and seal apply sealant
between boards? Similar to the portlight procedure we are always talking
about. This way you won't have a rotten cockpit in 10 years. FWIW, it is my
understanding that new boats do not use screws through the deck for teak
anymore. They use epoxy adhesive and vacuum bag. VHB would keep them in
place for the life of your boat.

On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 4:55 AM Franklin Schenk via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I also countersink all screw and bolt holes so the caulking can make a
> better seal.
>
> Frank
>
>
> On Friday, September 8, 2017 3:50 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> I put everything back with butyl tape.  You do have to seal the
> penetrations of the screws.
>
>
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>
>  Original message 
> From: Bev Parslow via CnC-List 
> Date: 9/7/17 6:55 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Bev Parslow 
> Subject: Stus-List teak wood to the cockpit
>
> Just taken some teak off a vertical surface. Varnished them and they look
> great. Do I need to use a caulking to attach them back? Can I just screw
> them back?
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List Fuel filter funnel search

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

The epoxy idea is what I have always seen people do.
Joe
Coquina



I'm about to mix up a batch of epoxy and fill the sump up to the bottom of the 
filter screen but that seems like an aggressive solution.  I have a Racor 500 
to trap water so I'm not overly concerned about removing water.

Any slick ideas out there?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Stus-List Fuel filter funnel search

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Touche' came with a decent fuel funnel with fine screen in the bottom.  I
think it's an old EZ-John funnel.  Used it for years but it is very slow.
Not fun holding a 5 gallon diesel can for 10 minutes while the fuel drains
so slow.

I bought one of the Mr. Funnel F3 fuel funnels.  While it passes the diesel
much quicker, you're left with a couple ounces of diesel in the funnel.
The design is such that any water would be left in this small residual.

It's a pain to deal with that couple ounces left in the funnel's sump.  I
usually carefully remove the funnel, put the old funnel in the fill fitting
and pour it in there.  Now I'm left with two wet funnels.

I've searched the Internet for a fuel filter funnel that doesn't have the
water trapping sump design.  I see Mr. Funnel, Racor and others but they
all have the water trapping sump.

I'm about to mix up a batch of epoxy and fill the sump up to the bottom of
the filter screen but that seems like an aggressive solution.  I have a
Racor 500 to trap water so I'm not overly concerned about removing water.

Any slick ideas out there?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Northeast Rendezvous

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Actually, we timed out Plum Gut perfectly and passed through at Warp 8.9 (8.9 
knots on the GPS.)

We are all going to be on B Dock. On approach, call the Mitchell Park Marina 
office on VHF 11. While it is somewhat breezy today, this marina is very 
protected. 

All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
Sent from my iPad Air
iPad. iTypos. iApologize



> On Sep 8, 2017, at 9:28 AM, Robert Gallagher via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Yes. It's started.
> Starship Enterprise and S/V Hanuman have arrived in Greenport. 
> 
> We watched the Enterprise pass over Plumb Island at Warp3. 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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Stus-List Height of C 40

[PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List]

Hi  

Does anyone know the height of a standard C 40 from keel to highest point on 
cabin or pulpit  boat transporter needs to know

Thanks

Peter 
C 40

Sent from my iPhone
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Stus-List Fuel Tank

[robert via CnC-List]

I am assuming the fuel tank on my 1984 is original..it is 
metal.not sure what the metal is.   Anyone know for sure what the 
fuel tank was made from?


Given its age, I am considering removing it later in the Fall and 
inspecting it and possibly replacing it.


Should I decide to replace it, what are my best options?  Where would I 
obtain a new fuel tank (20 gallons)?


Any and all input greatly appreciated.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




___

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Re: Stus-List Irma's Impact on Tortola

[robert via CnC-List]

I have the before picture (too big for the C site) which shows all 
these charter boats lined up in a safe harbor to be protected from the 
hurricane..well that was the plan, sadly!


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2017-09-07 11:51 AM, Randal Stafford via CnC-List wrote:
This is a sad picture: 
http://i.dailymail.co.uk/i/pix/2017/09/07/11/43FCB37F0578-4861184-Boats_piled_up_as_the_eye_of_Hurricane_Irma_passed_over_Tortola_-a-4_1504778890915.jpg 



Sadly,
Randy


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Stus-List Northeast Rendezvous

[Robert Gallagher via CnC-List]

Yes. It's started.
Starship Enterprise and S/V Hanuman have arrived in Greenport.

We watched the Enterprise pass over Plumb Island at Warp3.
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Re: Stus-List teak wood to the cockpit

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

I also countersink all screw and bolt holes so the caulking can make a better 
seal.
Frank 

On Friday, September 8, 2017 3:50 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 I put everything back with butyl tape.  You do have to seal the penetrations 
of the screws. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: Bev Parslow via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/7/17 6:55 PM (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bev Parslow  Subject: Stus-List 
teak wood to the cockpit 
Just taken some teak off a vertical surface. Varnished them and they look 
great. Do I need to use a caulking to attach them back? Can I just screw them 
back?___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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Re: Stus-List teak wood to the cockpit

[T power via CnC-List]

Mine was attached to the cockpit with screws and silicone, it was a mess. I'm 
thinking of sealing the screws with 4200 with butyl tape between the teak and 
fiberglass.

Would 4200 be adequate or is there a better product that could be used.

Cheers

Tom Power
Invictus
C 30 MK1
Fredericton, NB

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Danny Haughey via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, September 8, 2017 5:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey
Subject: Re: Stus-List teak wood to the cockpit

I put everything back with butyl tape.  You do have to seal the penetrations of 
the screws.



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

 Original message 
From: Bev Parslow via CnC-List 
Date: 9/7/17 6:55 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bev Parslow 
Subject: Stus-List teak wood to the cockpit

Just taken some teak off a vertical surface. Varnished them and they look 
great. Do I need to use a caulking to attach them back? Can I just screw them 
back?
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List teak wood to the cockpit

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I put everything back with butyl tape.  You do have to seal the penetrations of 
the screws. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: Bev Parslow via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/7/17  6:55 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bev Parslow  Subject: Stus-List 
teak wood to the cockpit 
Just taken some teak off a vertical surface. Varnished them and they look 
great. Do I need to use a caulking to attach them back? Can I just screw them 
back?___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List paint off our hull

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Whatever you do will be a multi stage event.  Compound wax and sealer if gel 
coat. I would do the same of you use acetone. Rinse really well after acetone, 
wax and seal.
If it's paint try just rubbing really hard with wax and see if it comes of.   
That has worked for me.   
Of course we're all talking about your boats finish not whatever transferred 
onto your boat. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
 Date: 9/7/17  7:13 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: C 
 Cc: ALAN BERGEN  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List paint off our hull 
If the hull is gel coat, use rubbing compound, and then wax to seal the gel 
coat.

On Thu, Sep 7, 2017 at 4:06 PM, G Collins via CnC-List  
wrote:





Is your hull gelcoat or painted?  If gelcoat I'd try acetone.  Wear gloves!


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11
On 2017-09-07 7:57 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List wrote:




we had an excursion with a fish boat and we have a few paint scars to show. How 
can I get the paint off? I have been told that paint stripper is not suitable.



 

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-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


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