Re: Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing

[coltrek via CnC-List]

Me too. A cute little crapsman Shop-Vac that lives invisably under my chart 
table. Blows the lines out, sucks to initiate a prime,  - and even does some 
vacuuming on occasion. Not something that a hard core racer would have on board 
all the time,  but I don't sweat the small stuff!


Regards,
Bill Coleman C 39

 Original message 
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
Date: 10/9/17  17:12  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Josh Muckley  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing 

Instead of an air compressor I use a shop vac set on blow instead of suck.  I 
have fewer fears of over pressuring the system and a small 1 gallon shop vac is 
great for around the boat anyway.
Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

On Mon, Oct 9, 2017, 3:32 PM Tom Lynch via CnC-List  
wrote:
Marek,
Thank you for your very detailed procedure.   
What type and size of air compressor what you recommend for this job?
On Mon, Oct 9, 2017 at 2:37 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 wrote:








Tom,
 
This is how I do it:
 
1.  drain water from the fresh water tank (does not need to be completely empty)
2. drain water from the water heater
3. highly advisable - install a water heater by-pass (multiple models available 
from RV supply; but I strongly suggest getting one with
TWO valves 
(https://www.amazon.ca/Valterra-P23503LFVP-Water-Heater-Pass/dp/B00HSO57LS/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive=UTF8=1507576917=1-2=water+heater+bypass)

4.  disconnect the system from the pump (above the pump)
5. - purge any remnants of water from the system using compressed air (for that 
you may need an adapter that can be purchased from any RV place or online (e.g.:
https://www.amazon.ca/Camco-36143-Brass-Quick-Connect/dp/B002XL2IEA) - you may 
need to MacGyver an adapter using the above and various length of hose, nipples 
etc.).
6. when you do it, close all faucets and then open one at a time (do it for 
each faucet on cold and hot wa___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

I’d be cautious about using a shop vac to blow air into a potable water system. 
 Even if you remove the filter and clean the tank, there are plenty of places 
for all the bacteria contained in that detritus you sucked out of a bilge 
pocket to hide.  It’s no problem if you don’t drink your water or use the 
vacuum to suck water out of your system.

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 9, 2017 5:13 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing

 

Instead of an air compressor I use a shop vac set on blow instead of suck.  I 
have fewer fears of over pressuring the system and a small 1 gallon shop vac is 
great for around the boat anyway.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

 

On Mon, Oct 9, 2017, 3:32 PM Tom Lynch via CnC-List  
wrote:

Marek,

 

Thank you for your very detailed procedure.   

 

What type and size of air compressor what you recommend for this job?

 

On Mon, Oct 9, 2017 at 2:37 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Tom,

 

This is how I do it:

 

1.  drain water from the fresh water tank (does not need to be completely empty)

2. drain water from the water heater

3. highly advisable - install a water heater by-pass (multiple models available 
from RV supply; but I strongly suggest getting one with TWO valves ( 

 
https://www.amazon.ca/Valterra-P23503LFVP-Water-Heater-Pass/dp/B00HSO57LS/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive=UTF8=1507576917=1-2=water+heater+bypass)
 

4.  disconnect the system from the pump (above the pump)

5. - purge any remnants of water from the system using compressed air (for that 
you may need an adapter that can be purchased from any RV place or online 
(e.g.:   
https://www.amazon.ca/Camco-36143-Brass-Quick-Connect/dp/B002XL2IEA) - you may 
need to MacGyver an adapter using the above and various length of hose, nipples 
etc.).

6. when you do it, close all faucets and then open one at a time (do it for 
each faucet on cold and hot water)

7. this would be especially complicated for hot water, as your heater would 
have plenty of water to be purged.

8. engage the water heater bypass

9. disconnect pump from the supply line from the tank.

10. attach to the pump a length of appropriate hose and put it into a jug of 
antifreeze

11. run the pump drawing AF from the jug until the pink stuff comes out of each 
and every faucet

12. repeat 4.-6., this time to evacuate any remnants of AF

 

You would need to modify this list to get the water out of the galley pump and 
water lines. It would be a modification of 4.-6. Or is the foot pump getting 
water from the lake? If so, you simply close the through-hull, disconnect the 
hose, put it into the AF jug and pump. (btw. the same procedure as for the 
supply side of the head).

 

If you have a cockpit shower, don’t forget it in your procedure

 

Never put AF into the water heater - it is difficult to drain, you would need 
5-6 gal of it to fill it, supposedly, it can turn into a cotton-candy-like 
mush, if heated and you would have a hard time getting the taste out of the 
water after this.

 

If you have an ice-box, the chances are that you have a pump that pumps out 
water from the bottom of it. Make sure that you winterise it, as well.

 

If you have a drain in the head (shower sump?), make sure that you winterise 
it, as well.

 

I hope I don’t need to mention that you need to winterise properly the head. It 
is not enough to just put some AF into the bowl and pump it out. You need to 
put AF into the supply side, as well.

 

If this list scares you, it should not; it is much easier than it sounds.

 

Marek

 

1994 C270 ”Legato”

Ottawa, ON

(the above procedure is still ahead of me, but I usually do it on the hard)

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom Lynch 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 9, 2017 14:59
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Lynch 
Subject: Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing

 

What's the best practice for Winterizing the fresh water system?  

 

My system:

 

40 gallon tank estimated 

Water heater 

Pressurized water pump

2 fixtures hot / cold from the pump 

1 fixture in the galley from a foot pump. 

 

My boat is on Lake Superior northern WI.  And no I cannot sail it to warmer 
climate for the winter.  

 

Tom Lynch

S/V IndoIrish

C 33 MKII

Bayfield WI - Lake Superior 

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  

Re: Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Just makes me think of Spaceballs where Mega Made is switched from Suck to 
Blow
Mega maid suck to blow
  
|  
|   
|   
|   ||

   |

  |
|  
||  
Mega maid suck to blow
   |   |

  |

  |

 
 Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
 Sent: Monday, October 9, 2017 5:13 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing
   
Instead of an air compressor I use a shop vac set on blow instead of suck.  I 
have fewer fears of over pressuring the system and a small 1 gallon shop vac is 
great for around the boat anyway.Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Mon, Oct 9, 2017, 3:32 PM Tom Lynch via CnC-List  
wrote:

Marek,
Thank you for your very detailed procedure.   
What type and size of air compressor what you recommend for this job?
On Mon, Oct 9, 2017 at 2:37 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Tom, This is how I do it: 1.  drain water from the fresh water tank (does not 
need to be completely empty)2. drain water from the water heater3. highly 
advisable - install a water heater by-pass (multiple models available from RV 
supply; but I strongly suggest getting one withTWO valves 
(https://www.amazon.ca/Valterra-P23503LFVP-Water-Heater-Pass/dp/B00HSO57LS/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive=UTF8=1507576917=1-2=water+heater+bypass)4.
  disconnect the system from the pump (above the pump)5. - purge any remnants 
of water from the system using compressed air (for that you may need an adapter 
that can be purchased from any RV place or online 
(e.g.:https://www.amazon.ca/Camco-36143-Brass-Quick-Connect/dp/B002XL2IEA) - 
you may need to MacGyver an adapter using the above and various length of hose, 
nipples etc.).6. when you do it, close all faucets and then open one at a time 
(do it for each faucet on cold and hot water)7. this would be especially 
complicated for hot water, as your heater would have plenty of water to be 
purged.8. engage the water heater bypass9. disconnect pump from the supply line 
from the tank.10. attach to the pump a length of appropriate hose and put it 
into a jug of antifreeze11. run the pump drawing AF from the jug until the pink 
stuff comes out of each and every faucet12. repeat 4.-6., this time to evacuate 
any remnants of AF You would need to modify this list to get the water out of 
the galley pump and water lines. It would be a modification of 4.-6. Or is the 
foot pump getting water from the lake? If so, you simply close the 
through-hull, disconnect the hose, put it into the AF jug and pump. (btw. the 
same procedure as for the supply side of the head). If you have a cockpit 
shower, don’t forget it in your procedure Never put AF into the water heater - 
it is difficult to drain, you would need 5-6 gal of it to fill it, supposedly, 
it can turn into a cotton-candy-like mush, if heated and you would have a hard 
time getting the taste out of the water after this. If you have an ice-box, the 
chances are that you have a pump that pumps out water from the bottom of it. 
Make sure that you winterise it, as well. If you have a drain in the head 
(shower sump?), make sure that you winterise it, as well. I hope I don’t need 
to mention that you need to winterise properly the head. It is not enough to 
just put some AF into the bowl and pump it out. You need to put AF into the 
supply side, as well. If this list scares you, it should not; it is much easier 
than it sounds. Marek 1994 C270 ”Legato”Ottawa, ON(the above procedure is still 
ahead of me, but I usually do it on the hard)From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Tom Lynch via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 9, 2017 14:59
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Lynch 
Subject: Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing What's the best practice 
for Winterizing the fresh water system?   My system: 40 gallon tank estimated 
Water heater Pressurized water pump2 fixtures hot / cold from the pump 1 
fixture in the galley from a foot pump.  My boat is on Lake Superior northern 
WI.  And no I cannot sail it to warmer climate for the winter.   Tom LynchS/V 
IndoIrishC 33 MKIIBayfield WI - Lake Superior 
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   

Re: Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Instead of an air compressor I use a shop vac set on blow instead of suck.
I have fewer fears of over pressuring the system and a small 1 gallon shop
vac is great for around the boat anyway.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mon, Oct 9, 2017, 3:32 PM Tom Lynch via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Marek,
>
> Thank you for your very detailed procedure.
>
> What type and size of air compressor what you recommend for this job?
>
> On Mon, Oct 9, 2017 at 2:37 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Tom,
>>
>>
>>
>> This is how I do it:
>>
>>
>>
>> 1.  drain water from the fresh water tank (does not need to be completely
>> empty)
>>
>> 2. drain water from the water heater
>>
>> 3. highly advisable - install a water heater by-pass (multiple models
>> available from RV supply; but I strongly suggest getting one with *TWO
>> valves *(
>> https://www.amazon.ca/Valterra-P23503LFVP-Water-Heater-Pass/dp/B00HSO57LS/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive=UTF8=1507576917=1-2=water+heater+bypass)
>>
>>
>> 4.  disconnect the system from the pump (above the pump)
>>
>> 5. - purge any remnants of water from the system using compressed air
>> (for that you may need an adapter that can be purchased from any RV place
>> or online (e.g.:
>> https://www.amazon.ca/Camco-36143-Brass-Quick-Connect/dp/B002XL2IEA) -
>> you may need to MacGyver an adapter using the above and various length of
>> hose, nipples etc.).
>>
>> 6. when you do it, close all faucets and then open one at a time (do it
>> for each faucet on cold and hot water)
>>
>> 7. this would be especially complicated for hot water, as your heater
>> would have plenty of water to be purged.
>>
>> 8. engage the water heater bypass
>>
>> 9. disconnect pump from the supply line from the tank.
>>
>> 10. attach to the pump a length of appropriate hose and put it into a jug
>> of antifreeze
>>
>> 11. run the pump drawing AF from the jug until the pink stuff comes out
>> of each and every faucet
>>
>> 12. repeat 4.-6., this time to evacuate any remnants of AF
>>
>>
>>
>> You would need to modify this list to get the water out of the galley
>> pump and water lines. It would be a modification of 4.-6. Or is the foot
>> pump getting water from the lake? If so, you simply close the through-hull,
>> disconnect the hose, put it into the AF jug and pump. (btw. the same
>> procedure as for the supply side of the head).
>>
>>
>>
>> If you have a cockpit shower, don’t forget it in your procedure
>>
>>
>>
>> Never put AF into the water heater - it is difficult to drain, you would
>> need 5-6 gal of it to fill it, supposedly, it can turn into a
>> cotton-candy-like mush, if heated and you would have a hard time getting
>> the taste out of the water after this.
>>
>>
>>
>> If you have an ice-box, the chances are that you have a pump that pumps
>> out water from the bottom of it. Make sure that you winterise it, as well.
>>
>>
>>
>> If you have a drain in the head (shower sump?), make sure that you
>> winterise it, as well.
>>
>>
>>
>> I hope I don’t need to mention that you need to winterise properly the
>> head. It is not enough to just put some AF into the bowl and pump it out.
>> You need to put AF into the supply side, as well.
>>
>>
>>
>> If this list scares you, it should not; it is much easier than it sounds.
>>
>>
>>
>> Marek
>>
>>
>>
>> 1994 C270 ”Legato”
>>
>> Ottawa, ON
>>
>> (the above procedure is still ahead of me, but I usually do it on the
>> hard)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Tom
>> Lynch via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Monday, October 9, 2017 14:59
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Tom Lynch 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing
>>
>>
>>
>> What's the best practice for Winterizing the fresh water system?
>>
>>
>>
>> My system:
>>
>>
>>
>> 40 gallon tank estimated
>>
>> Water heater
>>
>> Pressurized water pump
>>
>> 2 fixtures hot / cold from the pump
>>
>> 1 fixture in the galley from a foot pump.
>>
>>
>>
>> My boat is on Lake Superior northern WI.  And no I cannot sail it to
>> warmer climate for the winter.
>>
>>
>>
>> Tom Lynch
>>
>> S/V IndoIrish
>>
>> C 33 MKII
>>
>> Bayfield WI - Lake Superior
>> ___
>>
>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
>> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
>> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are 

Re: Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing

[Tom Lynch via CnC-List]

Marek,

Thank you for your very detailed procedure.

What type and size of air compressor what you recommend for this job?

On Mon, Oct 9, 2017 at 2:37 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Tom,
>
>
>
> This is how I do it:
>
>
>
> 1.  drain water from the fresh water tank (does not need to be completely
> empty)
>
> 2. drain water from the water heater
>
> 3. highly advisable - install a water heater by-pass (multiple models
> available from RV supply; but I strongly suggest getting one with *TWO
> valves *(
> https://www.amazon.ca/Valterra-P23503LFVP-Water-Heater-Pass/dp/B00HSO57LS/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive=UTF8=1507576917=1-2=water+heater+bypass)
>
>
> 4.  disconnect the system from the pump (above the pump)
>
> 5. - purge any remnants of water from the system using compressed air (for
> that you may need an adapter that can be purchased from any RV place or
> online (e.g.:
> https://www.amazon.ca/Camco-36143-Brass-Quick-Connect/dp/B002XL2IEA) -
> you may need to MacGyver an adapter using the above and various length of
> hose, nipples etc.).
>
> 6. when you do it, close all faucets and then open one at a time (do it
> for each faucet on cold and hot water)
>
> 7. this would be especially complicated for hot water, as your heater
> would have plenty of water to be purged.
>
> 8. engage the water heater bypass
>
> 9. disconnect pump from the supply line from the tank.
>
> 10. attach to the pump a length of appropriate hose and put it into a jug
> of antifreeze
>
> 11. run the pump drawing AF from the jug until the pink stuff comes out of
> each and every faucet
>
> 12. repeat 4.-6., this time to evacuate any remnants of AF
>
>
>
> You would need to modify this list to get the water out of the galley pump
> and water lines. It would be a modification of 4.-6. Or is the foot pump
> getting water from the lake? If so, you simply close the through-hull,
> disconnect the hose, put it into the AF jug and pump. (btw. the same
> procedure as for the supply side of the head).
>
>
>
> If you have a cockpit shower, don’t forget it in your procedure
>
>
>
> Never put AF into the water heater - it is difficult to drain, you would
> need 5-6 gal of it to fill it, supposedly, it can turn into a
> cotton-candy-like mush, if heated and you would have a hard time getting
> the taste out of the water after this.
>
>
>
> If you have an ice-box, the chances are that you have a pump that pumps
> out water from the bottom of it. Make sure that you winterise it, as well.
>
>
>
> If you have a drain in the head (shower sump?), make sure that you
> winterise it, as well.
>
>
>
> I hope I don’t need to mention that you need to winterise properly the
> head. It is not enough to just put some AF into the bowl and pump it out.
> You need to put AF into the supply side, as well.
>
>
>
> If this list scares you, it should not; it is much easier than it sounds.
>
>
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> 1994 C270 ”Legato”
>
> Ottawa, ON
>
> (the above procedure is still ahead of me, but I usually do it on the hard)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Tom
> Lynch via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, October 9, 2017 14:59
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Tom Lynch 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing
>
>
>
> What's the best practice for Winterizing the fresh water system?
>
>
>
> My system:
>
>
>
> 40 gallon tank estimated
>
> Water heater
>
> Pressurized water pump
>
> 2 fixtures hot / cold from the pump
>
> 1 fixture in the galley from a foot pump.
>
>
>
> My boat is on Lake Superior northern WI.  And no I cannot sail it to
> warmer climate for the winter.
>
>
>
> Tom Lynch
>
> S/V IndoIrish
>
> C 33 MKII
>
> Bayfield WI - Lake Superior
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Tom,

This is how I do it:

1.  drain water from the fresh water tank (does not need to be completely empty)
2. drain water from the water heater
3. highly advisable - install a water heater by-pass (multiple models available 
from RV supply; but I strongly suggest getting one with TWO valves 
(https://www.amazon.ca/Valterra-P23503LFVP-Water-Heater-Pass/dp/B00HSO57LS/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive=UTF8=1507576917=1-2=water+heater+bypass)
4.  disconnect the system from the pump (above the pump)
5. - purge any remnants of water from the system using compressed air (for that 
you may need an adapter that can be purchased from any RV place or online 
(e.g.: https://www.amazon.ca/Camco-36143-Brass-Quick-Connect/dp/B002XL2IEA) - 
you may need to MacGyver an adapter using the above and various length of hose, 
nipples etc.).
6. when you do it, close all faucets and then open one at a time (do it for 
each faucet on cold and hot water)
7. this would be especially complicated for hot water, as your heater would 
have plenty of water to be purged.
8. engage the water heater bypass
9. disconnect pump from the supply line from the tank.
10. attach to the pump a length of appropriate hose and put it into a jug of 
antifreeze
11. run the pump drawing AF from the jug until the pink stuff comes out of each 
and every faucet
12. repeat 4.-6., this time to evacuate any remnants of AF

You would need to modify this list to get the water out of the galley pump and 
water lines. It would be a modification of 4.-6. Or is the foot pump getting 
water from the lake? If so, you simply close the through-hull, disconnect the 
hose, put it into the AF jug and pump. (btw. the same procedure as for the 
supply side of the head).

If you have a cockpit shower, don’t forget it in your procedure

Never put AF into the water heater - it is difficult to drain, you would need 
5-6 gal of it to fill it, supposedly, it can turn into a cotton-candy-like 
mush, if heated and you would have a hard time getting the taste out of the 
water after this.

If you have an ice-box, the chances are that you have a pump that pumps out 
water from the bottom of it. Make sure that you winterise it, as well.

If you have a drain in the head (shower sump?), make sure that you winterise 
it, as well.

I hope I don’t need to mention that you need to winterise properly the head. It 
is not enough to just put some AF into the bowl and pump it out. You need to 
put AF into the supply side, as well.

If this list scares you, it should not; it is much easier than it sounds.

Marek

1994 C270 ”Legato”
Ottawa, ON
(the above procedure is still ahead of me, but I usually do it on the hard)




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom Lynch 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 9, 2017 14:59
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Lynch 
Subject: Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing

What's the best practice for Winterizing the fresh water system?

My system:

40 gallon tank estimated
Water heater
Pressurized water pump
2 fixtures hot / cold from the pump
1 fixture in the galley from a foot pump.

My boat is on Lake Superior northern WI.  And no I cannot sail it to warmer 
climate for the winter.

Tom Lynch
S/V IndoIrish
C 33 MKII
Bayfield WI - Lake Superior
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing

[Tom Lynch via CnC-List]

What's the best practice for Winterizing the fresh water system?

My system:

40 gallon tank estimated
Water heater
Pressurized water pump
2 fixtures hot / cold from the pump
1 fixture in the galley from a foot pump.

My boat is on Lake Superior northern WI.  And no I cannot sail it to warmer
climate for the winter.

Tom Lynch
S/V IndoIrish
C 33 MKII
Bayfield WI - Lake Superior
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Re: Stus-List Gotta Love These Hurricanes

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Meanwhile in Colorado: beautiful day for CSYC’s annual pursuit race yesterday.  
Sunny, temps in the 70s, breezes at 10kts gusting 15.  Today: freezing temps, 
several inches of wet heavy snow on the ground, tree limbs breaking.

Two more Sunday races left, then hauling out by Halloween.

Cheers,
Randy

> On Oct 9, 2017, at 9:20 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> We had Turkey Trot (Canadian Thanksgiving!) races yesterday and today. 
> Yesterday we had 20-30 kt. winds most of the day, with temperatures over 20 C 
> - as Michael said - October sailing in short sleeves! Today the remnants of 
> Nate arrived - no wind (0-4 kt.) and rain. Not much of a sailing weather.
>  
> I went for a quick spin before starting decommissioning for winter. Sad time 
> of the year.
>  
> Btw. our Club is about 2 km from Britannia. When they recorded that 85 kt. 
> wind, at our Club the top recorded wind was around 45 kt. Nothing to report 
> in our Club (short of a few jibs unfurling). In Britannia, a number of boats 
> were damaged (one fell off the cradle, a mast broken, many a stantion bent, 
> numerous dinghies strewn around).
>  
> Marek
> 1994 C270 “Legato”
> Ottawa, ON
>  
> -Original Message-
> From: Michael Brown via CnC-List  >
> To: cnc-list >
> Cc: Michael Brown >
> Sent: Mon, Oct 9, 2017 10:50 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Gotta Love These Hurricanes
> 
> Winds have been up this year. I went for the last sail of the season then 
> un-stepped the mast yesterday.
> At 5 AM Sunday the Toronto Island Airport which is across the Western Gap 
> from the National Yacht Club
> recorded a 47 mph gust, 32 mph winds. The forecast was for the wind to ease 
> in the afternoon to under
> 10 knots east, we enjoyed upwards to 20 knots south. Nice sailing in short 
> sleeves on October 8th.
> 
> A couple of weeks back on September 27th we had the last race of the fall 
> series with a storm line crossing
> the province. Winds were consistently into the 20s  though we wondered if 
> there would be a significant
> gust. The storm continued east towards Ottawa and the Britannia Yacht Club 
> where a downburst hit
> them with a 100 mph gust and 87 mph for over a minute.
> 
> Hopefully not the new norm.
> 
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C 30-1
> 

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Re: Stus-List Gotta Love These Hurricanes

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

We had Turkey Trot (Canadian Thanksgiving!) races yesterday and today. 
Yesterday we had 20-30 kt. winds most of the day, with temperatures over 20 C - 
as Michael said - October sailing in short sleeves! Today the remnants of Nate 
arrived - no wind (0-4 kt.) and rain. Not much of a sailing weather.

I went for a quick spin before starting decommissioning for winter. Sad time of 
the year.

Btw. our Club is about 2 km from Britannia. When they recorded that 85 kt. 
wind, at our Club the top recorded wind was around 45 kt. Nothing to report in 
our Club (short of a few jibs unfurling). In Britannia, a number of boats were 
damaged (one fell off the cradle, a mast broken, many a stantion bent, numerous 
dinghies strewn around).

Marek
1994 C270 “Legato”
Ottawa, ON

-Original Message-
From: Michael Brown via CnC-List 
>
To: cnc-list >
Cc: Michael Brown >
Sent: Mon, Oct 9, 2017 10:50 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Gotta Love These Hurricanes
Winds have been up this year. I went for the last sail of the season then 
un-stepped the mast yesterday.
At 5 AM Sunday the Toronto Island Airport which is across the Western Gap from 
the National Yacht Club
recorded a 47 mph gust, 32 mph winds. The forecast was for the wind to ease in 
the afternoon to under
10 knots east, we enjoyed upwards to 20 knots south. Nice sailing in short 
sleeves on October 8th.

A couple of weeks back on September 27th we had the last race of the fall 
series with a storm line crossing
the province. Winds were consistently into the 20s  though we wondered if there 
would be a significant
gust. The storm continued east towards Ottawa and the Britannia Yacht Club 
where a downburst hit
them with a 100 mph gust and 87 mph for over a minute.

Hopefully not the new norm.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1


From: "Dennis C." >
oge82d08k2ap...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Touche' also escaped unscathed.  Dock neighbor emailed me all is well.  Was
worried one of the "derelict" liveaboard boats anchored astern of me would
break loose.  Wind would have carried it towards Touche's pier.

Saw 40 mph steady and gusts to 53 mph at Pensacola Naval Air Station.
Water level rose less than 3 feet.

All in all, Nate wasn't overly destructive.  Some localized damage on the
Mississippi Coast but could have been worse.

Let's hope we're done for the year.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Gotta Love These Hurricanes

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

 Interesting about the wind gusts; we are in the middle of the Ohio Valley and 
went out in the remnants of Hurricane Nate: we had mean winds of 14-18 mph with 
gust in the mid to upper 30s; I clocked one gust at 39: of course it put the 
rail in the water..grin, grin...!

 


Richard
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.4:

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Michael Brown via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Michael Brown 
Sent: Mon, Oct 9, 2017 10:50 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Gotta Love These Hurricanes


Winds have been up this year. I went for the last sail of the season then 
un-stepped the mast yesterday.
At 5 AM Sunday the Toronto Island Airport which is across the Western Gap from 
the National Yacht Club
recorded a 47 mph gust, 32 mph winds. The forecast was for the wind to ease in 
the afternoon to under
10 knots east, we enjoyed upwards to 20 knots south. Nice sailing in short 
sleeves on October 8th.

A couple of weeks back on September 27th we had the last race of the fall 
series with a storm line crossing
the province. Winds were consistently into the 20s  though we wondered if there 
would be a significant
gust. The storm continued east towards Ottawa and the Britannia Yacht Club 
where a downburst hit
them with a 100 mph gust and 87 mph for over a minute.

Hopefully not the new norm.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1




From: "Dennis C." 
oge82d08k2ap...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Touche' also escaped unscathed.  Dock neighbor emailed me all is well.  Was
worried one of the "derelict" liveaboard boats anchored astern of me would
break loose.  Wind would have carried it towards Touche's pier.

Saw 40 mph steady and gusts to 53 mph at Pensacola Naval Air Station.
Water level rose less than 3 feet.

All in all, Nate wasn't overly destructive.  Some localized damage on the
Mississippi Coast but could have been worse.

Let's hope we're done for the year.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


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The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
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Re: Stus-List Gotta Love These Hurricanes

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

Winds have been up this year. I went for the last sail of the season then 
un-stepped the mast yesterday.
At 5 AM Sunday the Toronto Island Airport which is across the Western Gap from 
the National Yacht Club
recorded a 47 mph gust, 32 mph winds. The forecast was for the wind to ease in 
the afternoon to under
10 knots east, we enjoyed upwards to 20 knots south. Nice sailing in short 
sleeves on October 8th.

A couple of weeks back on September 27th we had the last race of the fall 
series with a storm line crossing
the province. Winds were consistently into the 20s  though we wondered if there 
would be a significant
gust. The storm continued east towards Ottawa and the Britannia Yacht Club 
where a downburst hit
them with a 100 mph gust and 87 mph for over a minute.

Hopefully not the new norm.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C 30-1




From: "Dennis C."  
oge82d08k2ap...@mail.gmail.com> 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" 
 
Touche' also escaped unscathed.  Dock neighbor emailed me all is well.  Was 
worried one of the "derelict" liveaboard boats anchored astern of me would 
break loose.  Wind would have carried it towards Touche's pier. 
 
Saw 40 mph steady and gusts to 53 mph at Pensacola Naval Air Station. 
Water level rose less than 3 feet. 
 
All in all, Nate wasn't overly destructive.  Some localized damage on the 
Mississippi Coast but could have been worse. 
 
Let's hope we're done for the year. 
 
Dennis C. 
Touche' 35-1 #83 
Mandeville, LA 
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Re: Stus-List LED Interior Flourescent replacements

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

I did the same thing as Tom, and I used these:  
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MSJ58UI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8=1

Overall I'm happy, they were rated for somewhat more lumens, and I used 2 in 
each of the fixtures.  In a perfect world, I might have even added a 3rd per 
fixture, but with the other lights being replaced with LEDs, this works fine.
Hope this helps, 
 Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
 Sent: Sunday, October 8, 2017 12:30 PM
 Subject: Stus-List LED Interior Flourescent replacements
   
I didn’t use replacement tube because the old fluorescent fixtures were going 
off rather than the bulbs.  The fixtures were all behind a translucent panels. 
So, I pulled out the old fixtures and hard wired  LED strip lights.  I used two 
in each location, that are chain wired with a jumper. Cleaned the surface and 
used double sided tape.  Works great.  
I also replaced all of the bayonet bulbs with LED replacements.
Tom B
Tom BuscagliaS/V Alera 1990 C 37+/40Vashon WAP 206.463.9200C 305.409.3660



Message: 1
Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2017 15:35:41 +
From: kelly petew 
To: cnc-list 
Subject: Stus-List LED Interior Flourescent replacements
Message-ID:
    

    
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Anyone have any experiences to share with replacing your original fluorescents 
with LEDs?

Is it simply 'plug & play', i.e., old tube out, new LED tube into the existing 
fixture??


Thanks!!


Pete W.


Siren Song

'91 C 30-2

Deltaville, Va.
-


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All contributions are greatly appreciated!


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October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
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--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List C 35-3 Rudder Drain Holes

[robert via CnC-List]

We I bought my boat, the surveyor noted that the rudder had been rebuilt 
by  the seller, however, he noted that he found three (3) 'voids' in the 
rudder.  He outlined the void spaces with a marker on the sides of the 
rudderI confirmed that by tapping the rudder with a small hammer and 
the sound(s) were obvious.  I drilled holes, top and bottom of the 
voids, 45 degree angled down for the top hole and 45 degree angle 
upwards for the bottom hole.  Small amount of water escaped.  Let dry in 
the sun for a few days.


Then plugged the bottom hole(s) and poured 'acetone' into the 
voids..was told this would remove any evidence of water in the 
voidsalso let me know how much West System resin I would need to 
fill the voids.  Let dry and filled the voids by pouring resin down the 
top hole(s).


12 seasons later, the rudder is still in place.every 3 years at 
haulout, I drill 2 holes in the bottom of the rudder to check for signs 
of water..none yet.


Every season before launch, I put a little 4200 around the rudder post 
where it enters the rudder to prevent water intrusion there.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 -84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2017-10-09 11:03 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:


I don’t speak from personal experience, but I read somewhere of drying 
the core using a vacuum pump (at least, theoretically, water should 
evaporate at much lower temperature if the pressure drops). After all 
the moisture gets out, you can fill the voids (or saturate the core) 
with very thin epoxy.


It makes sense, I think.

Marek

Sent from Mail  for 
Windows 10


*From: *Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
*Sent: *Sunday, October 8, 2017 20:41
*To: *cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc: *Matthew L. Wolford 
*Subject: *Re: Stus-List C 35-3 Rudder Drain Holes

Neil:
I think I may have commented on this before, but just in case: 
when I bought my boat, we noted that the moisture meter readings for 
the rudder were elevated (along with much of the core).  Rather than 
do a total re-build, my repair guy -- who knows as much about West 
System as the Gougeon brothers and was a close friend of theirs before 
they died -- repaired my rudder the same way he had done with some 
other C  First, he draws a grid on one side of the rudder with 
parallel lines about one inch apart and intersecting parallel lines 
about one inch apart.  He then drills holes (about 3/8” or so) on the 
intersecting points.  Then he places the rudder into a “casket,” which 
is a contraption that he made for drying out rudders.  It’s basically 
a plywood box to which he attaches a heater.  He heats the interior 
space of the box to about 200 degrees F for several weeks, and any 
water inside the rudder finds it way out through the holes. After the 
rudder is sufficiently baked, he then fills the holes with West System 
(I’m sure he uses a mixture of some sort, either colloidal silica or 
the cotton “wetting” additive).  When the holes are filled, the 
surface is smoothed out, and several coats of Interprotect are applied 
on the entire rudder.  He also checks the area where the rudder post 
enters the rudder to make sure it’s not easy for water to get in.  On 
my boat, this part of the rudder is normally out of the water, so this 
is not a huge issue.
He did this repair five or more years ago, and as far as I know 
the rudder is solid and dry.

Matt
*From:* schiller via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Sunday, October 08, 2017 5:06 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* schiller 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List C 35-3 Rudder Drain Holes
Here in the great white north the concern is the water freezing and 
splitting the rudder.  The surveyor concurred with that reasoning.  
Good old fresh water has it advantages but cold weather has its own 
items to be concerned with.  We haul, winterize and cover but we don't 
have to worry about Hurricanes and electrolysis (at least as much as 
salt water).  My shaft zincs are pretty much only a shaft stop.


Thanks for all of the input on drain holes.  I think I have my game plan.

Neil Schiller
1983 C 35, Mark III, #028
"Grace"
White Lake, Michigan


On 10/8/2017 10:48 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
When we bought ours the surveyor gave cautionary guidance that water 
in the rudder was bad since it could cause the metal web inside to 
rust.  Eventually this could result in the rudder twisting freely on 
the post or even falling off.  His guidance was that the only good 
way to fix the problem was to have the rudder rebuilt.  He told 
stories of some people drilling drain holes but wasn't convinced that 
all the water ever made it out.  Imagine trying to dry your laundry 
by just draining the tank and opening the lid of the washing 
machine.  We were sufficiently scared by the possible 

Re: Stus-List C 35-3 Rudder Drain Holes

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Sounds like a similar approach.  If you have the luxury of time, heating the 
rudder for several weeks during winter months (when the ambient air is dry in 
colder regions) is fool-proof, and without expensive equipment or labor.  
Obviously, you don’t want to overheat the rudder and cause damage.  I’m 
guessing 150 degrees F would also do the trick if this is a concern.  Just bake 
it a little longer.

From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, October 09, 2017 10:03 AM
To: Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 35-3 Rudder Drain Holes

I don’t speak from personal experience, but I read somewhere of drying the core 
using a vacuum pump (at least, theoretically, water should evaporate at much 
lower temperature if the pressure drops). After all the moisture gets out, you 
can fill the voids (or saturate the core) with very thin epoxy.

 

It makes sense, I think.

 

Marek

 

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

 

From: Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, October 8, 2017 20:41
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 35-3 Rudder Drain Holes

 

Neil:

I think I may have commented on this before, but just in case: when I 
bought my boat, we noted that the moisture meter readings for the rudder were 
elevated (along with much of the core).  Rather than do a total re-build, my 
repair guy -- who knows as much about West System as the Gougeon brothers and 
was a close friend of theirs before they died -- repaired my rudder the same 
way he had done with some other C  First, he draws a grid on one side of 
the rudder with parallel lines about one inch apart and intersecting parallel 
lines about one inch apart.  He then drills holes (about 3/8” or so) on the 
intersecting points.  Then he places the rudder into a “casket,” which is a 
contraption that he made for drying out rudders.  It’s basically a plywood box 
to which he attaches a heater.  He heats the interior space of the box to about 
200 degrees F for several weeks, and any water inside the rudder finds it way 
out through the holes.  After the rudder is sufficiently baked, he then fills 
the holes with West System (I’m sure he uses a mixture of some sort, either 
colloidal silica or the cotton “wetting” additive).  When the holes are filled, 
the surface is smoothed out, and several coats of Interprotect are applied on 
the entire rudder.  He also checks the area where the rudder post enters the 
rudder to make sure it’s not easy for water to get in.  On my boat, this part 
of the rudder is normally out of the water, so this is not a huge issue.

He did this repair five or more years ago, and as far as I know the rudder 
is solid and dry.

Matt 

From: schiller via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2017 5:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: schiller 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 35-3 Rudder Drain Holes

Here in the great white north the concern is the water freezing and splitting 
the rudder.  The surveyor concurred with that reasoning.  Good old fresh water 
has it advantages but cold weather has its own items to be concerned with.  We 
haul, winterize and cover but we don't have to worry about Hurricanes and 
electrolysis (at least as much as salt water).  My shaft zincs are pretty much 
only a shaft stop.

Thanks for all of the input on drain holes.  I think I have my game plan.

Neil Schiller
1983 C 35, Mark III, #028
"Grace"
White Lake, Michigan
 


On 10/8/2017 10:48 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:

  When we bought ours the surveyor gave cautionary guidance that water in the 
rudder was bad since it could cause the metal web inside to rust.  Eventually 
this could result in the rudder twisting freely on the post or even falling 
off.  His guidance was that the only good way to fix the problem was to have 
the rudder rebuilt.  He told stories of some people drilling drain holes but 
wasn't convinced that all the water ever made it out.  Imagine trying to dry 
your laundry by just draining the tank and opening the lid of the washing 
machine.  We were sufficiently scared by the possible consequences and had the 
rudder rebuilt the following winter.  In conclusion the steel web and welds 
were perfect and draining may have been sufficient - but for how long is 
anyone's guess.  Some people have a hard time sleeping on the hook.  Instead I 
have nightmares about killing people when the rudder, mast, or keel fail. 

  Here are the pictures that the fiberglass guy took during the rebuild.  They 
should help you when determining the internal structure of your rudder and 
where to drill holes.

  https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yVUdWUDNxVGFUcDA



  Josh Muckley
  S/V Sea Hawk
  1989 C 37+
  Solomons, MD


  On Oct 7, 2017 2:56 PM, "schiller via CnC-List"  wrote:

One of the items in our new C 35, Mark III was that there was moisture in 
the rudder and the surveyor suggested drilling drainage holes.  Anyone 

Re: Stus-List Replacing Perkins ignition switch

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

There is, but not “mandatory”.

On mine, the starter would not start if the key is not in the “glow plug” 
position. This is the factory set-up.

Some people change this to a separate “pre-heat” switch and no interlock. The 
advantage is that you don’t have voltage drop on the glow plugs, when you crank 
the engine. If the battery is weak, this could be a plus.

Btw. I am not advocating the change; only pointing out that there are two 
schools of thought.

Marek

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, October 8, 2017 17:34
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing Perkins ignition switch

So there's no pre-heat?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sun, Oct 8, 2017 at 4:03 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
> wrote:
I think it is a 3 position: off, run, start/glow plugs. This is how it is on my 
Perkins.

Some people don’t like the idea that the glow plugs have to be on to start the 
engine.

Marek

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, October 8, 2017 12:40
To: CnClist >
Cc: Dennis C. >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacing Perkins ignition switch

Do you have a tractor supply/repair store near you?  Pull the switch, take it 
to their parts guy.  He will probably have a replacement.

Otherwise, it should be fairly available online.  I'm not familiar with that 
exact switch but you're probably looking for a 4 position ignition switch.  The 
4 positions should be : Off, Ign, Start and Pre-heat or Heat.  A switch with 
the correct order of the positions is what you're looking for.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
mandeville, LA

On Sun, Oct 8, 2017 at 8:09 AM, Eric Frank via CnC-List 
> wrote:
The ignition switch on my Perkins control panel (engine installed in 1980) lost 
its hinged rubber cover a couple of years ago, and now no longer springs back 
from the glow plugs only position. Can people on this list suggest where to 
purchase a replacement switch? It has several positions: off, on, glow plugs 
only, start. The switch now doesn’t automatically remove power from the glow 
plugs when the key is released.  The rest of the panel is still working well 
(temperature and RPM gauges) so I would rather replace just the switch.  I have 
included a picture of the panel here: 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/txkent6abpwpdvm/PerkinsControlPanel.JPG?dl=0
Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
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___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
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The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C 35-3 Rudder Drain Holes

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I don’t speak from personal experience, but I read somewhere of drying the core 
using a vacuum pump (at least, theoretically, water should evaporate at much 
lower temperature if the pressure drops). After all the moisture gets out, you 
can fill the voids (or saturate the core) with very thin epoxy.

It makes sense, I think.

Marek

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, October 8, 2017 20:41
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 35-3 Rudder Drain Holes

Neil:

I think I may have commented on this before, but just in case: when I 
bought my boat, we noted that the moisture meter readings for the rudder were 
elevated (along with much of the core).  Rather than do a total re-build, my 
repair guy -- who knows as much about West System as the Gougeon brothers and 
was a close friend of theirs before they died -- repaired my rudder the same 
way he had done with some other C  First, he draws a grid on one side of 
the rudder with parallel lines about one inch apart and intersecting parallel 
lines about one inch apart.  He then drills holes (about 3/8” or so) on the 
intersecting points.  Then he places the rudder into a “casket,” which is a 
contraption that he made for drying out rudders.  It’s basically a plywood box 
to which he attaches a heater.  He heats the interior space of the box to about 
200 degrees F for several weeks, and any water inside the rudder finds it way 
out through the holes.  After the rudder is sufficiently baked, he then fills 
the holes with West System (I’m sure he uses a mixture of some sort, either 
colloidal silica or the cotton “wetting” additive).  When the holes are filled, 
the surface is smoothed out, and several coats of Interprotect are applied on 
the entire rudder.  He also checks the area where the rudder post enters the 
rudder to make sure it’s not easy for water to get in.  On my boat, this part 
of the rudder is normally out of the water, so this is not a huge issue.

He did this repair five or more years ago, and as far as I know the rudder 
is solid and dry.

Matt

From: schiller via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2017 5:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: schiller
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 35-3 Rudder Drain Holes

Here in the great white north the concern is the water freezing and splitting 
the rudder.  The surveyor concurred with that reasoning.  Good old fresh water 
has it advantages but cold weather has its own items to be concerned with.  We 
haul, winterize and cover but we don't have to worry about Hurricanes and 
electrolysis (at least as much as salt water).  My shaft zincs are pretty much 
only a shaft stop.

Thanks for all of the input on drain holes.  I think I have my game plan.

Neil Schiller
1983 C 35, Mark III, #028
"Grace"
White Lake, Michigan


On 10/8/2017 10:48 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
When we bought ours the surveyor gave cautionary guidance that water in the 
rudder was bad since it could cause the metal web inside to rust.  Eventually 
this could result in the rudder twisting freely on the post or even falling 
off.  His guidance was that the only good way to fix the problem was to have 
the rudder rebuilt.  He told stories of some people drilling drain holes but 
wasn't convinced that all the water ever made it out.  Imagine trying to dry 
your laundry by just draining the tank and opening the lid of the washing 
machine.  We were sufficiently scared by the possible consequences and had the 
rudder rebuilt the following winter.  In conclusion the steel web and welds 
were perfect and draining may have been sufficient - but for how long is 
anyone's guess.  Some people have a hard time sleeping on the hook.  Instead I 
have nightmares about killing people when the rudder, mast, or keel fail.

Here are the pictures that the fiberglass guy took during the rebuild.  They 
should help you when determining the internal structure of your rudder and 
where to drill holes.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yVUdWUDNxVGFUcDA


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Oct 7, 2017 2:56 PM, "schiller via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
One of the items in our new C 35, Mark III was that there was moisture in the 
rudder and the surveyor suggested drilling drainage holes.  Anyone want to 
suggest the location to drill?  We hauled out last night and I am going up to 
the boat to disconnect batteries on Wednesday.  I assume that the drainage 
holes will be in the lower quadrant of the rudder.  Should they be in the side 
or in the bottom surface (or does it really matter.

I never had to do this on my Redwing 35 so this is new to us.

Neil Schiller

Re: Stus-List Gotta Love These Hurricanes

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Great news. Good to hear.

Marek

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, October 8, 2017 19:39
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List Gotta Love These Hurricanes

Touche' also escaped unscathed.  Dock neighbor emailed me all is well.  Was 
worried one of the "derelict" liveaboard boats anchored astern of me would 
break loose.  Wind would have carried it towards Touche's pier.

Saw 40 mph steady and gusts to 53 mph at Pensacola Naval Air Station.  Water 
level rose less than 3 feet.

All in all, Nate wasn't overly destructive.  Some localized damage on the 
Mississippi Coast but could have been worse.

Let's hope we're done for the year.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List LED Interior Flourescent replacements

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

I just replaced the cabin lights on Peregrine with warm-white dimmable LEDs 
from IMTRA. The lights over the galley and nav table also turn red. Very bright 
and beautiful light. I put a couple of those bright LED strips behind the 
valance above the stove and lockers in the galley, but the light from them is 
rather cool and harsh.
Andy
C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Oct 8, 2017, at 14:36, svpegasus38 via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> No they are not, at least the ones I got. 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
> Doug Mountjoy 
> POYC 
> Pegasus (for sale) 
> Lf38 
> Rebecca Leah LF39 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Jim Reinardy via CnC-List 
> Date: 10/8/17 10:38 (GMT-08:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Jim Reinardy 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List LED Interior Flourescent replacements
> 
> Doug,
> 
>  
> 
> Are those dimmable?  It does not say in the write online at least.
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks,
> 
>  
> 
> Jim Reinardy
> 
> C 30-2 “Firewater”
> 
> Milwaukee
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
> svpegasus38 via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, October 08, 2017 11:53 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: svpegasus38 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List LED Interior Flourescent replacements
> 
>  
> 
> I replaced a couple of fluorescent tubes with the Marine beam led tubes. Had 
> to eliminate the ballast from the system. There is instructions either online 
> or included with the led tubes (can't remember). 
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
> 
> Doug Mountjoy 
> 
> POYC 
> 
> Pegasus (for sale) 
> 
> Lf38 
> 
> Rebecca Leah LF39 
> 
>  
> 
>  Original message 
> 
> From: kelly petew via CnC-List 
> 
> Date: 10/8/17 08:35 (GMT-08:00)
> 
> To: cnc-list 
> 
> Cc: kelly petew 
> 
> Subject: Stus-List LED Interior Flourescent replacements
> 
>  
> 
> Anyone have any experiences to share with replacing your original 
> fluorescents with LEDs? 
> 
> Is it simply 'plug & play', i.e., old tube out, new LED tube into the 
> existing fixture??
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks!!
> 
>  
> 
> Pete W.
> 
>  
> 
> Siren Song
> 
> '91 C 30-2
> 
> Deltaville, Va.
> 
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!