Re: Stus-List Throttle Return Spring - Yanmar 2GMF

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

One mistake I caught in my post below.  I said the friction screw is a phillips 
head screw inside the controller on the throttle side of the casting, however 
the factory friction screw was a 1/4x 20 hex bolt on the throttle side.  The 
pan head screws are what keep the levers from sliding out of the controller.

Chuck G.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck 
Gilchrest via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 7, 2017 4:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Throttle Return Spring - Yanmar 2GMF

 

The throttle tension screws only appeared after ’83 or so on the Edson model 
816 and 870 dual lever controls.  Up til then, many builders would install a 
clamp on the cable to prevent the spring from returning your throttle to idle 
without holding it down.  Some boats, like my 83 Landfall 35 had the Edson 747 
engine control that sat between the wheel and the pedestal with two additional 
steel tubes that contained the control cables.  Since there was no way to 
induce friction on the cables using the controller, the only option was the 
friction clamp placed inline on the cable.  My boat has a very long cable since 
the engine is mounted backwards in the boat and the cable needs to circle 
around the engine and all the way back to the throttle rack.  One would think 
there would be sufficient friction in the cable, but there isn’t.

 

Regarding the friction screw inside the pedestal, you’ll find a phillips head 
screw on the cast boss that holds the throttle lever control.  This screw bears 
down on a white Delrin bushing that reduces friction between the aluminum 
casting and stainless lever assembly.  Turning the screw clockwise SLOWLY will 
increase the friction on the bushing.  If there is no friction when pushing the 
lever forward and releasing it, the lever will return on its own to the idle 
position.  Turn the screw to apply just enough friction so that the lever stays 
in place when you push the lever forward, but not so tight that you have to 
force it to return to idle.  It is a fine tune adjustment, but you’ll get the 
idea when it is right.  Also, when the compass is off, make sure that the 
internal lever doesn’t move so far forward that the lever itself hits the 
pedestal guard.  

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 7, 2017 3:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: robert  >
Subject: Stus-List Throttle Return Spring - Yanmar 2GMF

 

I also understand there is a 'throttle tension screw' under the compass of the 
Edson pedestal.

Any advice/experience with this adjustment is appreciated.

Rob

On 2017-12-07 4:23 PM, robert via CnC-List wrote:

My throttle cable has a clamp on it which crushes the outer cable to provide 
sufficient friction on the inner cable to overcome the force of the return 
spring in the diesel pump throttle lever.

Has anyone any experience removing the 'clamp' on the cable and adjusting only 
the 'return spring' to properly tension the throttle cable so that it stays at 
a set RPM rather than slowing decreasing until it reaches it 'set point'. 

I somewhat like the idea of tensioning the 'return spring' instead of using an 
'adjustable clamp' on the throttle cable.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.




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Stus-List Throttle Return Spring - Yanmar 2GMF

[robert via CnC-List]

Chuck:

Thank you for your detailed response.  My 32 is an 84 model I will 
look to see if I can find the Edson model of the pedestal.


When I bought the boat in 200, it came with the 'friction clamp placed 
inline on the cable.  While it works, albeit my throttle cable is a bit 
tight, I would like to see if there is a better more effective way to 
tension my throttle cable.


Next question:  If I have a 'friction clamp', as I do, does it stay in 
place as I tension the 'friction screw' inside the pedestal or do I 
remove it entirely and simply tension the 'friction screw inside the 
pedestal'?




On 2017-12-07 5:25 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List wrote:


The throttle tension screws only appeared after ’83 or so on the Edson 
model 816 and 870 dual lever controls.  Up til then, many builders 
would install a clamp on the cable to prevent the spring from 
returning your throttle to idle without holding it down.  Some boats, 
like my 83 Landfall 35 had the Edson 747 engine control that sat 
between the wheel and the pedestal with two additional steel tubes 
that contained the control cables.  Since there was no way to induce 
friction on the cables using the controller, the only option was the 
friction clamp placed inline on the cable.  My boat has a very long 
cable since the engine is mounted backwards in the boat and the cable 
needs to circle around the engine and all the way back to the throttle 
rack.  One would think there would be sufficient friction in the 
cable, but there isn’t.


Regarding the friction screw inside the pedestal, you’ll find a 
phillips head screw on the cast boss that holds the throttle lever 
control.  This screw bears down on a white Delrin bushing that reduces 
friction between the aluminum casting and stainless lever assembly. 
Turning the screw clockwise SLOWLY will increase the friction on the 
bushing.  If there is no friction when pushing the lever forward and 
releasing it, the lever will return on its own to the idle position.  
Turn the screw to apply just enough friction so that the lever stays 
in place when you push the lever forward, but not so tight that you 
have to force it to return to idle.  It is a fine tune adjustment, but 
you’ll get the idea when it is right.  Also, when the compass is off, 
make sure that the internal lever doesn’t move so far forward that the 
lever itself hits the pedestal guard.


Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall




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Re: Stus-List Throttle Return Spring - Yanmar 2GMF

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

The throttle tension screws only appeared after ’83 or so on the Edson model 
816 and 870 dual lever controls.  Up til then, many builders would install a 
clamp on the cable to prevent the spring from returning your throttle to idle 
without holding it down.  Some boats, like my 83 Landfall 35 had the Edson 747 
engine control that sat between the wheel and the pedestal with two additional 
steel tubes that contained the control cables.  Since there was no way to 
induce friction on the cables using the controller, the only option was the 
friction clamp placed inline on the cable.  My boat has a very long cable since 
the engine is mounted backwards in the boat and the cable needs to circle 
around the engine and all the way back to the throttle rack.  One would think 
there would be sufficient friction in the cable, but there isn’t.

 

Regarding the friction screw inside the pedestal, you’ll find a phillips head 
screw on the cast boss that holds the throttle lever control.  This screw bears 
down on a white Delrin bushing that reduces friction between the aluminum 
casting and stainless lever assembly.  Turning the screw clockwise SLOWLY will 
increase the friction on the bushing.  If there is no friction when pushing the 
lever forward and releasing it, the lever will return on its own to the idle 
position.  Turn the screw to apply just enough friction so that the lever stays 
in place when you push the lever forward, but not so tight that you have to 
force it to return to idle.  It is a fine tune adjustment, but you’ll get the 
idea when it is right.  Also, when the compass is off, make sure that the 
internal lever doesn’t move so far forward that the lever itself hits the 
pedestal guard.  

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of robert via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 7, 2017 3:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert 
Subject: Stus-List Throttle Return Spring - Yanmar 2GMF

 

I also understand there is a 'throttle tension screw' under the compass of the 
Edson pedestal.

Any advice/experience with this adjustment is appreciated.

Rob

On 2017-12-07 4:23 PM, robert via CnC-List wrote:

My throttle cable has a clamp on it which crushes the outer cable to provide 
sufficient friction on the inner cable to overcome the force of the return 
spring in the diesel pump throttle lever.

Has anyone any experience removing the 'clamp' on the cable and adjusting only 
the 'return spring' to properly tension the throttle cable so that it stays at 
a set RPM rather than slowing decreasing until it reaches it 'set point'. 

I somewhat like the idea of tensioning the 'return spring' instead of using an 
'adjustable clamp' on the throttle cable.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.





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Stus-List Throttle Return Spring - Yanmar 2GMF

[robert via CnC-List]

I also understand there is a 'throttle tension screw' under the compass 
of the Edson pedestal.


Any advice/experience with this adjustment is appreciated.

Rob

On 2017-12-07 4:23 PM, robert via CnC-List wrote:
My *throttle* cable has a clamp on it which crushes the outer cable to 
provide sufficient friction on the inner cable to overcome the force 
of the *return spring* in the diesel pump *throttle* lever.


Has anyone any experience removing the 'clamp' on the cable and 
adjusting only the 'return spring' to properly tension the throttle 
cable so that it stays at a set RPM rather than slowing decreasing 
until it reaches it 'set point'.


I somewhat like the idea of tensioning the 'return spring' instead of 
using an 'adjustable clamp' on the throttle cable.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Stus-List Throttle Return Spring - Yanmar 2GMF

[robert via CnC-List]

My *throttle* cable has a clamp on it which crushes the outer cable to 
provide sufficient friction on the inner cable to overcome the force of 
the *return spring* in the diesel pump *throttle* lever.


Has anyone any experience removing the 'clamp' on the cable and 
adjusting only the 'return spring' to properly tension the throttle 
cable so that it stays at a set RPM rather than slowing decreasing until 
it reaches it 'set point'.


I somewhat like the idea of tensioning the 'return spring' instead of 
using an 'adjustable clamp' on the throttle cable.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
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Re: Stus-List Stove

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

Saw a great looking stainless steel stove sitting beside the dumpster at a 
marina in Florida last week. I was pretty excited until upon closer inspection 
it proved to be electric. 
Stinkpots...

Steve Thomas
C

 Chuck Saur via CnC-List  wrote: 
Neil, all, I am searching for a good stainless PROPANE oven/stove for my
35-3.  I tired of multiple attempts at torching my boat with the alcohol
model and de-fused the beast.   If yours (or anyone else?) is propane, in
good shape, and is for sale, could you let me know please?  Thanks!


*Chuck Saur*

(517)-490-5926


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Re: Stus-List : A research question:

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

  I have a question for the collective wisdom/memory of the group;  I have 
always wondered about but cannot find any leads to research; on my boat (85 C 
37, CB model), there is a small brass plaque that reads; "C Rendezvous: Block 
Island 1985: Starfire; Best in Fleet".  I have a photo, if anyone wants to see 
it).   The mystery is that according to my Documentation records, my boat was 
never named "Starfire"; to make it more curious, there is a 37 owned by Bill 
Hall on Lake Erie that is also an 85 and it has had the name "Starfire" since 
they bought it new in 85.   I have spoken with Bill about this and neither of 
us can figure out what happened...either I have Bill's plaque or there was more 
than one "Starfire" at Block Island in 1985! Does anyone have any ideas 
about where I might go to find any records, photos, written information about 
the 1985 C Rendezvous?   Or any other ideas? I did run this by Rob and he 
suggested posing it to the grout...so here it is! Many 
 thanks

 


Richard

Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 
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Re: Stus-List Engine idle speed

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I am no Diesel Mechanic either, but it seems to me that the governor should be 
doing all it can to maintain your speed at a minimum idle. I know that mine 
(Kubota) will absolutely not go above 3,000, I seems that it would also hold, 
or should hold, at a minimum. Maybe only newer engines do this, I don’t know.

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PAanimated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2017 7:44 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Stus-List Engine idle speed

 

All this discussion of engine (Universal M4-30) starting has reminded me of 
something I want to do in the spring, but am not sure how to approach.  My 
engine runs fine at idle, which is around 1000rpm (don’t remember exactly what 
gauge reads).  If I shift into reverse it almost always stalls.  If I advance 
the throttle slightly, it does not stall.  This is obviously a real problem 
when docking as I can’t count on slowing down when I need to without restarting 
the engine.  So the question is: what is how to advance the idle speed 
slightly?  I can imagine doing this at the Edson lever end or the engine end 
and not sure which is the right or best way to do it.  Thanks- Dave

 

Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT




 

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Re: Stus-List Asymmetrical Spinnaker for Sale

[Michael Crombie via CnC-List]

Hi Rod,

If it hasn't already gone, please contact me off list at
mcrom...@interrockminerals.com.

Thanks,
Mike

Atacama 33mkii
Toronto

On Dec 5, 2017 4:28 PM, "Rod Stright via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> One like new Doyle Racing Asymmetrical spinnaker in like new condition will
> fit boat with an I of 45' and a J of 13'.  Used less than 6 times.  Will
> fit
> C 33 Mk 2 or similar size boats.  $1500 firm Canadian.
>
> Rod
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Don
> Harben via CnC-List
> Sent: December-05-17 2:52 PM
> To: Robert Mazza 
> Cc: Don Harben ; C Mailing List
> 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Mega Prototype?
>
> Hi Rob,
>
> Thank you. Your depth of knowledge is valued!
>
>
>
> Don
>
> Don Harben
>
> > On Dec 5, 2017, at 9:48 AM, Robert Mazza  wrote:
> >
> > Harbour
>
> ___
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> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>
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Re: Stus-List Engine idle speed

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Agreed that 1000 RPM at idle does not sound right.

From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2017 7:44 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Stus-List Engine idle speed

All this discussion of engine (Universal M4-30) starting has reminded me of 
something I want to do in the spring, but am not sure how to approach.  My 
engine runs fine at idle, which is around 1000rpm (don’t remember exactly what 
gauge reads).  If I shift into reverse it almost always stalls.  If I advance 
the throttle slightly, it does not stall.  This is obviously a real problem 
when docking as I can’t count on slowing down when I need to without restarting 
the engine.  So the question is: what is how to advance the idle speed 
slightly?  I can imagine doing this at the Edson lever end or the engine end 
and not sure which is the right or best way to do it.  Thanks- Dave 

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

 




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Re: Stus-List Engine idle speed

[robert via CnC-List]

David:

I have a Yanmar 2GMF.where the throttle cable meets the engine, 
there is an screw/bolt that can be easily adjusted to set the 'minimum 
idle speed'..I have mine set about 800 RPM's so I can not adjust the 
throttle to run the engine below 800 RPM's.


I don't have the same issue as you with the engine stalling when you 
shift into reverse. However, I do not think increasing the minimum idle 
speed much above 1000 RPM's is the solutionto your problem.  I am no 
marine engine mechanic but I think you should be able to shift into 
reverse at 1000 RPM's without stalling.


I would address this before adjusting the idle RPM's higher than 
1000.can't be good on the transmission when you shift into gear(s) 
at a higher RPM than 1000.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2017-12-07 8:44 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
All this discussion of engine (Universal M4-30) starting has reminded 
me of something I want to do in the spring, but am not sure how to 
approach.  My engine runs fine at idle, which is around 1000rpm (don’t 
remember exactly what gauge reads).  If I shift into reverse it almost 
always stalls.  If I advance the throttle slightly, it does not stall. 
 This is obviously a real problem when docking as I can’t count on 
slowing down when I need to without restarting the engine.  So the 
question is: what is how to advance the idle speed slightly?  I can 
imagine doing this at the Edson lever end or the engine end and not 
sure which is the right or best way to do it.  Thanks- Dave


Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT




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Re: Stus-List Engine idle speed

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

First, don't believe your tachometer.  You said your engine idles at 1000
rpm.  Your engine may actually be idling at a lower speed.  I check and
adjust my 25XPB tachometer with a laser tachometer.

Second, adjust the idle at the engine, not the pedestal.  You should find 2
cables on the side of the engine.  One is the stop cable; the other the
throttle.  The throttle cable/lever should have an idle adjust screw.  Just
bump the idle up a bit by adjusting the screw.

Over time, as the high pressure pump wears, the injectors wear or get
dirty, your engine may have a bit less power or lose rpm at idle.  Consider
cleaning the injectors, etc. also.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Dec 7, 2017 at 6:44 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> All this discussion of engine (Universal M4-30) starting has reminded me
> of something I want to do in the spring, but am not sure how to approach.
> My engine runs fine at idle, which is around 1000rpm (don’t remember
> exactly what gauge reads).  If I shift into reverse it almost always
> stalls.  If I advance the throttle slightly, it does not stall.  This is
> obviously a real problem when docking as I can’t count on slowing down when
> I need to without restarting the engine.  So the question is: what is how
> to advance the idle speed slightly?  I can imagine doing this at the Edson
> lever end or the engine end and not sure which is the right or best way to
> do it.  Thanks- Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Engine idle speed

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

99% of the time you want to do this at the engine end. There should be an 
adjuster screw someplace for idle speed.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2017 7:44 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Stus-List Engine idle speed

All this discussion of engine (Universal M4-30) starting has reminded me of 
something I want to do in the spring, but am not sure how to approach.  My 
engine runs fine at idle, which is around 1000rpm (don’t remember exactly what 
gauge reads).  If I shift into reverse it almost always stalls.  If I advance 
the throttle slightly, it does not stall.  This is obviously a real problem 
when docking as I can’t count on slowing down when I need to without restarting 
the engine.  So the question is: what is how to advance the idle speed 
slightly?  I can imagine doing this at the Edson lever end or the engine end 
and not sure which is the right or best way to do it.  Thanks- Dave

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

[cid:image001.png@01D36F34.A9090700]

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Re: Stus-List Hard starting 3GM 30

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Early and late season we always require mid to full throttle to start our 
3GM30F.  Starts much more quickly and with much less throttle in the heat of 
summer and when has been running within the past few hours.  I always advance 
the throttle when starting and then throttle back as all the cylinders start 
firing.  Injectors, hp pump and lift pump all replaced or refurbished within 
last two seasons

Mike
Persistence
HAlifax

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Castor 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2017 10:16 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David Castor
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hard starting 3GM 30

FWIW, on my Westerbeke, the owner's manual recommends starting with throttle 
wide open.  Don't know about Yanmar.  It helped a lot when I started doing 
that.  I guess it's good to read the manual sometimes.
Dave Castor

On Wed, Dec 6, 2017 at 11:49 AM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Fred:
My 3GMF (20hp) does the same thing.  When I first start it I give it full 
throttle, and it starts fine.  After a race, it starts fine with no advanced 
throttle.  I just assume the fuel is flowing back in the line, and it's taking 
a while to get to the engine.  Some day I'll tighten all the fuel line fittings.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Stus-List Engine idle speed

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

All this discussion of engine (Universal M4-30) starting has reminded me of 
something I want to do in the spring, but am not sure how to approach.  My 
engine runs fine at idle, which is around 1000rpm (don’t remember exactly what 
gauge reads).  If I shift into reverse it almost always stalls.  If I advance 
the throttle slightly, it does not stall.  This is obviously a real problem 
when docking as I can’t count on slowing down when I need to without restarting 
the engine.  So the question is: what is how to advance the idle speed 
slightly?  I can imagine doing this at the Edson lever end or the engine end 
and not sure which is the right or best way to do it.  Thanks- Dave

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List Hard starting 3GM 30

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

My Universal M4-30 manual says to advance throttle 1/3 which is what I normally 
do.  Dave

> On Dec 7, 2017, at 7:00 AM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Interesting.  Our 35 year old 3GM starts immediately every time with throttle 
> on dead idle.  About 10 years ago had starting issues and white smoke.  
> Replaced injectors and fuel pump – problem solved.  Check the oil level.  If 
> it is rising then fuel is getting into the oil which can cause some 
> spectacular results.  In our case culprit was broken diaphragm in the fuel 
> pump which of course reduced fuel pressure and allowed leak into oil sump.
>  
>  
> John and Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C 34
> Noank, CT
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh 
> Muckley via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, December 06, 2017 11:53 PM
> To: C List
> Cc: Josh Muckley
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Hard starting 3GM 30
>  
> As I recall the Yanmar manual says to start with mid-throttle.
>  
> Josh 
>  
> On Dec 6, 2017 9:16 PM, "David Castor via CnC-List"  > wrote:
> FWIW, on my Westerbeke, the owner's manual recommends starting with throttle 
> wide open.  Don't know about Yanmar.  It helped a lot when I started doing 
> that.  I guess it's good to read the manual sometimes.  
> 
> Dave Castor
>  
> On Wed, Dec 6, 2017 at 11:49 AM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
> > wrote:
>> Fred:
>> My 3GMF (20hp) does the same thing.  When I first start it I give it full 
>> throttle, and it starts fine.  After a race, it starts fine with no advanced 
>> throttle.  I just assume the fuel is flowing back in the line, and it's 
>> taking a while to get to the engine.  Some day I'll tighten all the fuel 
>> line fittings.
>> 
>> Alan Bergen
>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>> Rose City YC
>> Portland, OR
>>  
>> On Wed, Dec 6, 2017 at 10:52 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
>> > wrote:
>> What causes it to start poorly?  To start it we have to give it full 
>> throttle.  One more clue is that when it first fires some white smoke comes 
>> out..
>> 
>> Fred Hazzard
>> S/V Fury
>> Portland Or
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ___
>> 
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>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
>> 
> 
>  
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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> 
> 
>  
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Dr. David Knecht
Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology
University of Connecticut   
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
Storrs, CT 06269-3125
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Re: Stus-List Hard starting 3GM 30

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

My 3HM35F starts with minimum throttle and in the dead of winter but I
still try to follow the manual.  Fred, you might try priming the engine by
pulling the decompression levers and turning over the starter for 10 to 20
seconds.  Immediately reset the levers and attempt to start.  You can even
reset while still rolling the engine.  If it changes the start symptoms
then I would lean towards a problem with the fuel lines draining down
during the idle times.  Could be sticking needle valves in the injectors or
sticking discharge check valves in the HP pump or weeping fuel line
connections.

Josh


On Thu, Dec 7, 2017, 7:01 AM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Interesting.  Our 35 year old 3GM starts immediately every time with
> throttle on dead idle.  About 10 years ago had starting issues and white
> smoke.  Replaced injectors and fuel pump – problem solved.  Check the oil
> level.  If it is rising then fuel is getting into the oil which can cause
> some spectacular results.  In our case culprit was broken diaphragm in the
> fuel pump which of course reduced fuel pressure and allowed leak into oil
> sump.
>
>
>
>
>
> John and Maryann
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
> Muckley via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, December 06, 2017 11:53 PM
> *To:* C List
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley
>
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Hard starting 3GM 30
>
>
>
> As I recall the Yanmar manual says to start with mid-throttle.
>
>
>
> Josh
>
>
>
> On Dec 6, 2017 9:16 PM, "David Castor via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
> FWIW, on my Westerbeke, the owner's manual recommends starting with
> throttle wide open.  Don't know about Yanmar.  It helped a lot when I
> started doing that.  I guess it's good to read the manual sometimes.
>
> Dave Castor
>
>
>
> On Wed, Dec 6, 2017 at 11:49 AM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Fred:
>
> My 3GMF (20hp) does the same thing.  When I first start it I give it full
> throttle, and it starts fine.  After a race, it starts fine with no
> advanced throttle.  I just assume the fuel is flowing back in the line, and
> it's taking a while to get to the engine.  Some day I'll tighten all the
> fuel line fittings.
>
>
> Alan Bergen
>
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>
> Rose City YC
>
> Portland, OR
>
>
>
> On Wed, Dec 6, 2017 at 10:52 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> What causes it to start poorly?  To start it we have to give it full
> throttle.  One more clue is that when it first fires some white smoke comes
> out..
>
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> Portland Or
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=gVh3DTSZS2-MlUPNb7VoKHqe9sPmYXbPu76ur9Se-C4=ThqPMjcPyL9_IFeUYVab3I9rB8sF-m8TXMvVAIeWX70=
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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