Re: Stus-List Rot around chain plate

[schiller via CnC-List]

I'll second Josh's concern with a point of actual experience.  Corsair's 
initial survey (1996) indicated that the Starboard upper shroud chain 
plate showed indications of water damage and the holes were elongated.  
The survey recommendation was to glass in the bulkhead, on both sides, 
and add a backing plate on the wet locker side.  We did all of this and 
it lasted 21 years before the bulkhead blew out in 15 knots (true) wind 
on a beat.  The chain plate pulled up and out f the bulkhead and about 
30 seconds later went through the deck as the mast came down at the 
spreaders.


I had the original surveyor look at the results (he was a broker for a 
replacement boat that I was looking at) and we sounded the bulkhead that 
was left.  It all sounded solid, just the rotted section failed, along 
with all of the glass added.


Trust me, this is not an experience to look forward to.  Fix it right.

Neil Schiller
Old: 1970 Redwing 35 (C 35, Mark I), Hull #7, Corsair
New: 1983 C 35-3, Hull #28, Grace
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC

On 4/23/2018 8:23 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
The hardest part is going to be gaining access to the area.  Other 
than that it should be a pretty standard job of cutting out the bad 
and replacing with new then glassing it in with the appropriate 
tabbing.  If the picture I've created in my mind is correct then the 
chain plate is connected to this bulkhead?  Then the bulkhead is part 
of the knee and will absolutely compromise the stability of the mast 
and subsequently the safety of the boat.  Rot of that magnitude cannot 
be ignored.


Since it is such an integral part of the structure you may want to 
look at what it would take to replace the whole bulkhead and not just 
a piece where it is rotting.  The side stays will need removed to 
remove the chain plate - use a halyard to stabilize the mast in the 
interim. Remove the chain plate.  Inspect for rot in the deck.


Send pictures so we can advise further.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mon, Apr 23, 2018, 7:42 PM DANIEL WATTS via CnC-List 
> wrote:


After uncovering my C 33 for the season, I found some rust in
the cabin under the forward chainplate which holds the lower
shroud. Upon further investigation, I found rot (finger piercing)
in the bulkhead area inside the head compartment over the toilet,
between the chainplate and the hull. Am I looking at a major
repair, rebuilding the bulkhead, or is there some way to patch up
the area?

Any advise would be appreciated,

Dan Watts

Counterpoint - 1976 C 33 Mk1

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Re: Stus-List Deck painting

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I just did the deck on Imzadi, my 38. I selected the paint and process after 
seeing the results of a deck repaint on a friend's Tartan 37. The process was 
essentially painless and took less than a week start to finish. Though I'm sure 
it was not as elaborate as the process you are considering.

The paint used was Interdeck, which comes in a limited range of colors. The Off 
White was a fairly close match to C smoke white, though it is noticeably 
lighter shade when the two colors are side by side in the sunlight. From 15 
feet away, I cannot discern a difference. YMMV.

I elected to not remove most deck hardware... other than things like winches 
and handrails. My main objective was to correct all the deck blemishes that 
have occurred over the years and cover up spots where I had moved lifeline 
stanchions to the toe rail, removed deck hardware, and added the windlass and 
anchor rollers. We taped all the hardware left in place with 3M yellow tape, 
which previous results show to be better than the blue or green tape. 
Taping/masking took more time than painting.

There was no sanding involved in the deck prep. Wash good with fresh water and 
deck cleaner. Then thoroughly scrub with a stiff brush and Ajax cleanser. That 
is what the pros did with my friend's Tartan.

Interdeck already has the flattening agent as part of the paint. Added the 
Interlux non-skid additive (one small can in 4 quarts of deck paint) and rolled 
on with a smooth nap roller. Small brush to get around/under things like cleats 
and the mast partners. The finished texture is very close to the original 
texture from 1976.

I had planned to do Kiwigrip on the deck of my 25 - which is in need of 
refinishing. But Interdeck may be my actual choice after doing the 38.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC




-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mike Rose 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2018 5:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Mike Rose 
Subject: Stus-List Deck painting

Hi there-

I am planning to paint the deck and have few questions for those that have gone 
before me. I plan to use Perfection with Kiwigrip. I did a sample locker lid 
with Snow White Perfection and White KiwiGrip. The Perfection is a bit too 
white/reflective. I’d rather use a different shade of white over a flattening 
agent. Here goes the questions.

1- what shade of perfection is preferred for the smooth deck surfaces?
2- is there a recommended approach if I need to divide the effort between two 
off-seasons (ie side decks and cabin one year, cockpit the next)
3- what sanding tool is best for the curves and corners?

Thanks,
Mike Rose
s/v Shannon Rose
1972 C 39

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Deck painting

[Derek McLeod via CnC-List]

Hi,

I painted the deck on my 29-2 last year. Absolutely massive job. One I likely 
wouldn’t take on again. Like any painting project, the preparation aka sanding 
is the most important thing. I come from a cabinetmaking background and have 
spent plenty of time sanding. I still found this to be a huge undertaking. My 
deck was as far as I can tell previously painted with Awlgrip. The glossy areas 
were somewhat dull and had surface cracks in areas but the real issue I had was 
the non-skid was very slippery. My boat was under its winter cover for this 
work which kept it dry-ish and warm-ish, but does make for a sore back being 
hunched most of the time. 

Sanding/prep - I used a 5” orbital sander wherever possible. I made sanding 
tools for inside radii from 1/2” dowel with 1/8” thick foam wrap around them. 
I’d make them just shorter than the length of a piece of standard sandpaper, 
around 9”. And then would hold the paper around the dowel while sanding. I use 
Norton 3X paper almost exclusively. I started by sanding down to 80 grit 
everywhere, getting the old non-skid smooth. Repaired any cracks, surface 
defects and so on with System 3 Quik-fair epoxy which is pre-thickened, easy to 
mix, and fairly fast curing. I have from Lee Valley, their 8” Bent Detail File, 
#62W30.67 which was absolutely indispensable for shaping inside corners. It 
cleanly cuts filler and fiberglass and can even clean up an errant paint drip. 

Lots of vacuuming up dust. Remove almost every bit of hardware, tape up 
everything that can or needs to stay. Pull off the anchor locker lid, cockpit 
seat/lid, anything that can be worked on at a table. I proceeded to sand up to 
180 grit after filling everything I didn’t like. I have a 3M half face mask 
that I swap with P100 dust cartridges or organic filters depending on the task. 
I did a solvent wipe-down with Awlprep T0170. 

Priming - I used Awlgrip 545, which is a two part epoxy primer. Absolutely 
toxic and very very thin, making brushing it smooth very hard to do. I was 
advised it would be wise to use it to form a good bonding surface between the 
old and new paint. Two coats were suggested but I couldn’t bring myself to do 
it. Too much work. 

Painting - I painted with Awlgrip Matterhorn White. I didn’t flatten the glossy 
areas since they make up a relatively small visible area compared with the 
non-skid. Before painting, I sanded the 545 primer to 220 grit, smoothing out 
the inevitable drips and runs and misery that primer causes. I vacuumed, 
solvent wiped again and proceeded with the topcoat. I was advised to thin 10% 
for the first coat and as much as 30% for the second coat. Thinner is added 
while working due to evaporation. No solvent wipe between topcoats was also 
advised. I scuff sanded between topcoats with 400 grit. The topcoat is a 
miracle of chemistry that when everything goes right and the temperature is 
good and humidity and skill of the painter all come together, it looks like a 
sprayed finish. It levels out so nicely that brush strokes disappear into each 
other. I used foam brushes although I had a fancy badger hair brush on hand. I 
had to break up the boat into sections and I didn’t want to buy a half dozen 
badger brushes. I had devoted about a month of effort to get the glossy paint 
on and to be ready for the non-skid. 

Non-skid - I went with Kiwigrip Grey rather than attempt to match whites. I 
bought a gallon and needed an extra 2 quarts to finish up. I masked off the 
glossy paint after a couple days of the Awlgrip curing. I used 1/4” vinyl tape 
for the corners, and then regular 3/4” for straight lines. Roughly 8 hours to 
mask everything... Start with hatches to get a feel for it and determine your 
technique for texture. With the previously sanded surfaces ready at 80 grit and 
then scuffed the new Awlgrip up to the tape line so there would be good 
adhesion. Applying the Kiwigrip, I found it easy to glop it onto your surfaces 
with a 2” wide stick of plywood, spread evenly with a V notch trowel, and 
follow up with their 3” roller to achieve the desired texture. It’s relatively 
easy, forgiving and doesn’t smell. It is important to remove the masking tape 
while it’s wet so the edge lays down nice or it could get lifted with the tape. 
Plan accordingly to peel in 3-4’ sections as you work along. 

Once you are done the paint, you will also have to paint your opening ports 
since they now look dingy. Same for the vents. And in my case my pedestal. And 
then re-install everything you took off, re-bed, etc.

This project roughly coincided with nearly losing my sense of smell. I took 
every precaution I could in terms of new cartridge filters, gloves, long sleeve 
shirts, safety glasses. And my smell thing could be coincidental, but I still 
wonder if the chemicals found their way past my mask. 

Anyway, that’s my story. I’m ultimately happy with the way the boat turned out 
and expect it will be good for a decade plus. Good luck!! 

Re: Stus-List Deck painting

[jackbrennan via CnC-List]

I've used Brightside, Easypoxy and Rustoleum Marine paint over the years on my 
old boats.

Somewhat surprisingly, at least in the Florida sun, the winner by far is 
Rustoleum. It holds up well, does not stain easily and, when you have a 
problem, it's simple to touch up. I have one hatch painted three years ago that 
looks great.

Brightside and Easypoxy had to be redone every couple of years. The direct 
Florida sun really took its toll.

I also used Kiwigrip. It's great antiskid, but I had a continuing problem with 
enduring dirt stains. This happened particularly in the cockpit, which is 
covered by a bimini. The sun seemed to help bleach out stains elsewhere with 
regular cleaning.

My solution was to grind down the Kiwigrip to a mild antiskid pattern. Then I 
painted over it with Rustoleum Marine. A year later, it looks like new with 
Starbrite for cleaning and protection.

Jack Brennan
Former C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.






Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab®|PRO

 Original message 
From: Chuck S via CnC-List  
Date:04/23/2018  9:03 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Chuck S ,Mike Rose  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck painting 

I need to paint my deck too and I'm not so crazy about Perfection as it is a 
two part paint and the flattening agent is another two part additive making it 
a tedious process. You have to mix four chemicals to get one paint to apply. 
I've seen decks painted with single part Briteside and it's single part 
flattening agent and think that's how I'll go. It's easier to touch up too, 
which is another reason why I prefer it.

My favorite color is Pearl White (has a slight yellow in it) deck +w a Flag 
Blue hull, but my hull is a smoke white so Matterhorn or even Off White may be 
best for me. It's hard to pick by the color chart, but you can better imagine 
how it will look by taking the color chart to a marina and comparing the colors 
to actual boats you like. Snow White is super bright white. 

I like the Kiwi Grip reviews and hope to use that too.

3M scrubbing sponges work well on curved surfaces. A sponge with sandpaper 
underneath. Orbital sander for the flats.

> On April 23, 2018 at 5:47 PM Mike Rose via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi there-
> 
> I am planning to paint the deck and have few questions for those that have 
> gone before me. I plan to use Perfection with Kiwigrip. I did a sample locker 
> lid with Snow White Perfection and White KiwiGrip. The Perfection is a bit 
> too white/reflective. I’d rather use a different shade of white over a 
> flattening agent. Here goes the questions.
> 
> 1- what shade of perfection is preferred for the smooth deck surfaces?
> 2- is there a recommended approach if I need to divide the effort between two 
> off-seasons (ie side decks and cabin one year, cockpit the next)
> 3- what sanding tool is best for the curves and corners?
> 
> Thanks,
> Mike Rose
> s/v Shannon Rose
> 1972 C 39
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Deck painting

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

I need to paint my deck too and I'm not so crazy about Perfection as it is a 
two part paint and the flattening agent is another two part additive making it 
a tedious process. You have to mix four chemicals to get one paint to apply. 
I've seen decks painted with single part Briteside and it's single part 
flattening agent and think that's how I'll go. It's easier to touch up too, 
which is another reason why I prefer it.

My favorite color is Pearl White (has a slight yellow in it) deck +w a Flag 
Blue hull, but my hull is a smoke white so Matterhorn or even Off White may be 
best for me. It's hard to pick by the color chart, but you can better imagine 
how it will look by taking the color chart to a marina and comparing the colors 
to actual boats you like. Snow White is super bright white.

I like the Kiwi Grip reviews and hope to use that too.

3M scrubbing sponges work well on curved surfaces. A sponge with sandpaper 
underneath. Orbital sander for the flats.

> On April 23, 2018 at 5:47 PM Mike Rose via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>
>
> Hi there-
>
> I am planning to paint the deck and have few questions for those that have 
> gone before me. I plan to use Perfection with Kiwigrip. I did a sample locker 
> lid with Snow White Perfection and White KiwiGrip. The Perfection is a bit 
> too white/reflective. I’d rather use a different shade of white over a 
> flattening agent. Here goes the questions.
>
> 1- what shade of perfection is preferred for the smooth deck surfaces?
> 2- is there a recommended approach if I need to divide the effort between two 
> off-seasons (ie side decks and cabin one year, cockpit the next)
> 3- what sanding tool is best for the curves and corners?
>
> Thanks,
> Mike Rose
> s/v Shannon Rose
> 1972 C 39
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
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Re: Stus-List Rot around chain plate

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

The hardest part is going to be gaining access to the area.  Other than
that it should be a pretty standard job of cutting out the bad and
replacing with new then glassing it in with the appropriate tabbing.  If
the picture I've created in my mind is correct then the chain plate is
connected to this bulkhead?  Then the bulkhead is part of the knee and will
absolutely compromise the stability of the mast and subsequently the safety
of the boat.  Rot of that magnitude cannot be ignored.

Since it is such an integral part of the structure you may want to look at
what it would take to replace the whole bulkhead and not just a piece where
it is rotting.  The side stays will need removed to remove the chain plate
- use a halyard to stabilize the mast in the interim.  Remove the chain
plate.  Inspect for rot in the deck.

Send pictures so we can advise further.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mon, Apr 23, 2018, 7:42 PM DANIEL WATTS via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> After uncovering my C 33 for the season, I found some rust in the cabin
> under the forward chainplate which holds the lower shroud. Upon further
> investigation, I found rot (finger piercing) in the bulkhead area inside
> the head compartment over the toilet, between the chainplate and the hull.
> Am I looking at a major repair, rebuilding the bulkhead, or is there some
> way to patch up the area?
>
> Any advise would be appreciated,
>
> Dan Watts
>
> Counterpoint - 1976 C 33 Mk1
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List water tank level sensor

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

 I have the same sensors on my 37+ and was able to make new sensors
just by replacing the wires.  Josh is correct, they aren't the highest
quality sensors in the world, but they do work and are very inexpensive to
repair.  On my boat I found two problems:

1.  The wiring to the connector that supplies the connections to the leds
and the switches were incorrectly wired.  It appeared to me that the wiring
was wrong from the factory.  I doubt they ever worked.

2.   Several leds were dead, likely caused by #1 above.

 The idea is that the selector switches connect the leds in series with
the "sensors".  The conductivity of the liquid being sensed is enough to
light the leds.  The leds are rated at something like 2 ma.

  If the above is not enough information to help you get them working,
you may contact me off line for more information.  All of my sensors now
work.  Are there better sensors out there?  Yes.  But for the price, they
work reasonably well.  The leds are like a buck a piece and are the only
electronic devices involved.

Good luck,
Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Mon, Apr 23, 2018 at 9:41 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I discovered last fall that my boat actually has sensors in the three
> water tanks.  There are small lights on the panel and double/triple throw
> switches that appear to allow you to turn it on and switch from tank sensor
> to tank sensor.  I think the lights correspond to 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, full , but
> they don’t currently work.  I pulled one of the tank inserts out yesterday
> so I could see what it was.  Photos are here:
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/gL6kV2e7JQeVvwM43
>
> Is anyone familiar with these?  How can I check to see if the sender has
> failed or it is something else?
> Thanks- Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Wax

[detroito91 via CnC-List]

Has anyone tried new glass?Nice gloss, makes the hull look new.Jim schwartz C 
38LF Washington nc 
 Original message From: Eric Frank via CnC-List 
 Date: 4/23/18  2:43 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Eric Frank  Subject: Re: Stus-List 
Wax 
Bruce,

Yes, people on this list have very different opinions about PoliGlow - my 
experience has been favorable.  I’ve been using it every spring since buying 
Cat's Paw (bright red hull) in 2009 with good results. If there is a haze 
anywhere, Poliglow does not get rid of that, as the directions warn. And 
getting rid of the haze is hard work (have not tried ammonia, so I will try 
that this spring). The company recommends removing that haze before applying 
Poliglow, and if you don’t, the haze is definitely visible under the new 
Poliglow - haze with a shine!.  But if the haze is removed, the result is 
excellent - very bright and shiny - and it lasts the whole season.  It does 
require 6 or 7 coats, but dries in minutes, so I just go around the boat (with 
a leather-like rag on a stick) that many times - it takes about 10 minutes to 
go around once (a 35’ hull). Routinely get comments about how good it looks, 
and it’s still very bright the following spring when I do it again.  Cat's Paw 
is kept on jack stands for the winter but spends the entire summer on a mooring 
(Buzzards Bay is salt water), so plenty of sun and salt air. Despite the many 
critics, I’ll keep using it.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> From: Bruce Whitmore 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax
> Message-ID: <341358156.172875.1524492543...@mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hello all, 
> 
> I have historically had very good experience with PoliGlow in the Chicago 
> area - 16 years, as a matter of fact.? That said, for some reason here in 
> Florida, people swear at the stuff (rather than swearing by it).? They say it 
> yellows and is nearly impossible to remove. I don't know the reality either 
> way down here, at least as of yet.
> I understand the remover is ammonia (and industrial strength at that).? How 
> difficult is it to remove in reality?? 
> 
> For those of you who have worked with it in year-round hot, sunny, seawater 
> exposed environments, what say to about the stuff?
> I'd really like to go back to it, but I've gotten an awful lot of pushback 
> from the locals... 
> 
> Thanks for your input, 
> ?Bruce Whitmore



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Stus-List Rot around chain plate

[DANIEL WATTS via CnC-List]

After uncovering my C 33 for the season, I found some rust in the cabin under 
the forward chainplate which holds the lower shroud. Upon further 
investigation, I found rot (finger piercing) in the bulkhead area inside the 
head compartment over the toilet, between the chainplate and the hull. Am I 
looking at a major repair, rebuilding the bulkhead, or is there some way to 
patch up the area?


Any advise would be appreciated,


Dan Watts


Counterpoint - 1976 C 33 Mk1 ___

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Re: Stus-List Deck painting

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Mike,

I redid the decks on my boat last year. Although I used Awlgrip/Awlcraft 
products I give you some idea of what I found encountered.

I was originally going to use Cloud White for the decks but the Awlgrip guys 
said that Matterhorn White was their best selling product. It has a bit of grey 
to it so it isn’t glaringly white. Perhaps you may be able to tint the 
Perfection. The surface area on the 37’ is mostly covered in non-skid so a 
brilliant reflection was not a concern and frankly, where there was a gloss 
surface I wanted it to stand out. Years ago I sprayed Perfection in the 
interior with a flattening agent and it turned out well in that environment but 
I wouldn’t want a flattening agent for deck painting. I was trying to re-create 
the look of brand new gelcoat.

As an aside, I considered using Kiwi Grip but I preferred to look of the 
original C non-skid which I was able recreate with Griptex. Griptex is just a 
bit more involved to apply so Kiwi Grip is a good choice.

I don’t know the level of effort that you are planning on but as you may have 
surmised, it is a big job. If there is any way possible to do all of the job at 
once I would try for that. If you break it up over years there is the 
likelihood of being able to see where the break was given fading and possible 
color differences.

I bought a set of these 3M block sanders 

 and they proved to be invaluable.

Good luck with your project!

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Apr 23, 2018, at 5:47 PM, Mike Rose via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi there-
> 
> I am planning to paint the deck and have few questions for those that have 
> gone before me. I plan to use Perfection with Kiwigrip. I did a sample locker 
> lid with Snow White Perfection and White KiwiGrip. The Perfection is a bit 
> too white/reflective. I’d rather use a different shade of white over a 
> flattening agent. Here goes the questions.
> 
> 1- what shade of perfection is preferred for the smooth deck surfaces?
> 2- is there a recommended approach if I need to divide the effort between two 
> off-seasons (ie side decks and cabin one year, cockpit the next)
> 3- what sanding tool is best for the curves and corners?
> 
> Thanks,
> Mike Rose
> s/v Shannon Rose
> 1972 C 39
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Stus-List Deck painting

[Mike Rose via CnC-List]

Hi there-

I am planning to paint the deck and have few questions for those that have gone 
before me. I plan to use Perfection with Kiwigrip. I did a sample locker lid 
with Snow White Perfection and White KiwiGrip. The Perfection is a bit too 
white/reflective. I’d rather use a different shade of white over a flattening 
agent. Here goes the questions.

1- what shade of perfection is preferred for the smooth deck surfaces?
2- is there a recommended approach if I need to divide the effort between two 
off-seasons (ie side decks and cabin one year, cockpit the next)
3- what sanding tool is best for the curves and corners?

Thanks,
Mike Rose
s/v Shannon Rose
1972 C 39

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Wax

[Eric Frank via CnC-List]

Bruce,

Yes, people on this list have very different opinions about PoliGlow - my 
experience has been favorable.  I’ve been using it every spring since buying 
Cat's Paw (bright red hull) in 2009 with good results. If there is a haze 
anywhere, Poliglow does not get rid of that, as the directions warn. And 
getting rid of the haze is hard work (have not tried ammonia, so I will try 
that this spring). The company recommends removing that haze before applying 
Poliglow, and if you don’t, the haze is definitely visible under the new 
Poliglow - haze with a shine!.  But if the haze is removed, the result is 
excellent - very bright and shiny - and it lasts the whole season.  It does 
require 6 or 7 coats, but dries in minutes, so I just go around the boat (with 
a leather-like rag on a stick) that many times - it takes about 10 minutes to 
go around once (a 35’ hull). Routinely get comments about how good it looks, 
and it’s still very bright the following spring when I do it again.  Cat's Paw 
is kept on jack stands for the winter but spends the entire summer on a mooring 
(Buzzards Bay is salt water), so plenty of sun and salt air. Despite the many 
critics, I’ll keep using it.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA

> From: Bruce Whitmore 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax
> Message-ID: <341358156.172875.1524492543...@mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hello all, 
> 
> I have historically had very good experience with PoliGlow in the Chicago 
> area - 16 years, as a matter of fact.? That said, for some reason here in 
> Florida, people swear at the stuff (rather than swearing by it).? They say it 
> yellows and is nearly impossible to remove. I don't know the reality either 
> way down here, at least as of yet.
> I understand the remover is ammonia (and industrial strength at that).? How 
> difficult is it to remove in reality?? 
> 
> For those of you who have worked with it in year-round hot, sunny, seawater 
> exposed environments, what say to about the stuff?
> I'd really like to go back to it, but I've gotten an awful lot of pushback 
> from the locals... 
> 
> Thanks for your input, 
> ?Bruce Whitmore



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Re: Stus-List Diesel Tank Cleaning

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

I had some luck with diesel fuel tank cleaner made by starbrite.  I would also 
run a small 12v pump on the far side of the racor, recirculating the fuel back 
to the tank.  I found a pretty cheap one online.  Of course, the larger/faster 
the pump, the more stuff it *may* suck up off the bottom.  
When I say I had some success, it is only because it is hard to quantify.  Our 
new to us boat had been on the dock for a long time (less than about 50 hours 
over a 6 year period).  We we picking up small granular crud in the bottom of 
the filter bowl.  After recirculating the fuel for 10 hours total time  after 
adding the cleaner, it seemed to stop collecting crud.  We then motored a total 
of 24 hours with no engine issues.  A year later with about 75 new hours on the 
engine I picked up a slight rough running just above idle.  I swapped out the 
filter and it was back to running fine.  We have shaken up the tank a few times 
as well.
That said, I say some success as I have no way of saying just how much crud was 
in my tank to begin with.  The reviewson the Starbrite product are very high, 
however.
Hope this helps,
Bruce Whitmore 1994 37/40+


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Nauset Beach via CnC-List 
 Date: 4/23/18  12:23 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Nauset Beach  Subject: 
Stus-List Diesel Tank Cleaning 
All,  Last year my engine shut down 2 times and have concluded I need to clean 
out the diesel tank.  I had very old fuel [3+ years] in the tank after several 
years of very low usage and topping up the tank prior to winter storage which 
was the cause of the 1st shut down.  Most of that fuel was removed, but had a 
2nd shutdown which am assuming was due to “crud” blocking the pickup.  The 
Racor was completely blocked the 1st time, but was completely clear the 2nd 
time, and the engine started right up after being off for 12 hours.  Do not 
think fuel polishing alone would be sufficient.  The tank is 20 yo.   I know 
tank cleaning has come up on the list in past years and recall some steam 
cleaned &/or pressure washed the tank interior.  I do not want to introduce 
water into the tank – do not have sufficient time to drain and dry the tank 
adequately prior to launch.  Nor the ability to readily do that.   Have read 
people used clean diesel as a “solvent” to clean the interior but am wondering 
if that would really be sufficient.  Have also read of using MEK to break down 
/ dissolve deposits in the tank.  At this point there is about 5 gal of diesel 
in a 20 gal tank, a portion of which could be used to slosh around /agitate 
within the tank, but again am unsure if diesel alone would be sufficient.   Any 
suggestions on how to “quickly and easily” clean a diesel tank?   There is a 4” 
inspection port, but it is screwed in place with self-tapping screws [per the 
manufacturer] which use a drive shape I am not familiar with – a square with 
small lines radiating out from each corner – sort of a cross between a 
Robertson and a Phillips.  So am hesitant to remove that plate as a) do not 
want to strip / round out the screw heads, and b) do not know what type of 
sealant to use to close it up upon conclusion.  Was thinking I could use the 
pickup  or return openings to remove most of the fuel with a manual extraction 
pump [same as I use for oil changes], and possibly the 1 ½” fill fitting as a 
way to drain out most if not all of any crud / water that may be in the tank.  
I can remove the tank from the boat fairly easily so can flip it over to drain 
out through the fill fitting.  Would also check for a screen on the pickup.   
ThanksBrian  ___

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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Diesel Tank Cleaning

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I have a vacuum gauge on my fuel filter. You can plump these to be visible from 
the helm. It will give you advanced warning that the filter is clogging up and 
also confirm that is actually the problem. For better troubleshooting, you can 
use 2 - one before and one after the filter. That way you can see if the tank 
pickup itself is clogging.
As for the tank cleaning, I took my tank home and cleaned it. YMMV on how hard 
that is and at some point it is easier or cheaper to just buy a new one, 
depending on what is in there. In your case, I would take a photo of the odd 
fasteners so we can find a tool for them.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Nauset Beach 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 23, 2018 12:24 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Nauset Beach 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Diesel Tank Cleaning

All,

Last year my engine shut down 2 times and have concluded I need to clean out 
the diesel tank.  I had very old fuel [3+ years] in the tank after several 
years of very low usage and topping up the tank prior to winter storage which 
was the cause of the 1st shut down.  Most of that fuel was removed, but had a 
2nd shutdown which am assuming was due to "crud" blocking the pickup.  The 
Racor was completely blocked the 1st time, but was completely clear the 2nd 
time, and the engine started right up after being off for 12 hours.  Do not 
think fuel polishing alone would be sufficient.  The tank is 20 yo.

I know tank cleaning has come up on the list in past years and recall some 
steam cleaned &/or pressure washed the tank interior.  I do not want to 
introduce water into the tank - do not have sufficient time to drain and dry 
the tank adequately prior to launch.  Nor the ability to readily do that.

Have read people used clean diesel as a "solvent" to clean the interior but am 
wondering if that would really be sufficient.  Have also read of using MEK to 
break down / dissolve deposits in the tank.  At this point there is about 5 gal 
of diesel in a 20 gal tank, a portion of which could be used to slosh around 
/agitate within the tank, but again am unsure if diesel alone would be 
sufficient.

Any suggestions on how to "quickly and easily" clean a diesel tank?

There is a 4" inspection port, but it is screwed in place with self-tapping 
screws [per the manufacturer] which use a drive shape I am not familiar with - 
a square with small lines radiating out from each corner - sort of a cross 
between a Robertson and a Phillips.  So am hesitant to remove that plate as a) 
do not want to strip / round out the screw heads, and b) do not know what type 
of sealant to use to close it up upon conclusion.  Was thinking I could use the 
pickup  or return openings to remove most of the fuel with a manual extraction 
pump [same as I use for oil changes], and possibly the 1 ½" fill fitting as a 
way to drain out most if not all of any crud / water that may be in the tank.  
I can remove the tank from the boat fairly easily so can flip it over to drain 
out through the fill fitting.  Would also check for a screen on the pickup.

Thanks
Brian


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Stus-List Diesel Tank Cleaning

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

All, 

 

Last year my engine shut down 2 times and have concluded I need to clean out
the diesel tank.  I had very old fuel [3+ years] in the tank after several
years of very low usage and topping up the tank prior to winter storage
which was the cause of the 1st shut down.  Most of that fuel was removed,
but had a 2nd shutdown which am assuming was due to “crud” blocking the
pickup.  The Racor was completely blocked the 1st time, but was completely
clear the 2nd time, and the engine started right up after being off for 12
hours.  Do not think fuel polishing alone would be sufficient.  The tank is
20 yo.  

 

I know tank cleaning has come up on the list in past years and recall some
steam cleaned &/or pressure washed the tank interior.  I do not want to
introduce water into the tank – do not have sufficient time to drain and dry
the tank adequately prior to launch.  Nor the ability to readily do that.  

 

Have read people used clean diesel as a “solvent” to clean the interior but
am wondering if that would really be sufficient.  Have also read of using
MEK to break down / dissolve deposits in the tank.  At this point there is
about 5 gal of diesel in a 20 gal tank, a portion of which could be used to
slosh around /agitate within the tank, but again am unsure if diesel alone
would be sufficient.  

 

Any suggestions on how to “quickly and easily” clean a diesel tank?  

 

There is a 4” inspection port, but it is screwed in place with self-tapping
screws [per the manufacturer] which use a drive shape I am not familiar with
– a square with small lines radiating out from each corner – sort of a cross
between a Robertson and a Phillips.  So am hesitant to remove that plate as
a) do not want to strip / round out the screw heads, and b) do not know what
type of sealant to use to close it up upon conclusion.  Was thinking I could
use the pickup  or return openings to remove most of the fuel with a manual
extraction pump [same as I use for oil changes], and possibly the 1 ½” fill
fitting as a way to drain out most if not all of any crud / water that may
be in the tank.  I can remove the tank from the boat fairly easily so can
flip it over to drain out through the fill fitting.  Would also check for a
screen on the pickup.  

 

Thanks

Brian

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Wax

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

My experience with Polyglow was poor. Initially it looked good.
Unfortunately, it soon showed lots of dark pollution streaks on a light
colored surface. It was difficult to remove.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or

On Mon, Apr 23, 2018 at 7:09 AM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I have historically had very good experience with PoliGlow in the Chicago
> area - 16 years, as a matter of fact.  That said, for some reason here in
> Florida, people swear at the stuff (rather than swearing by it).  They say
> it yellows and is nearly impossible to remove. I don't know the reality
> either way down here, at least as of yet.
>
> I understand the remover is ammonia (and industrial strength at that).
> How difficult is it to remove in reality?
>
> For those of you who have worked with it in year-round hot, sunny,
> seawater exposed environments, what say to about the stuff?
>
> I'd really like to go back to it, but I've gotten an awful lot of pushback
> from the locals...
>
> Thanks for your input,
>
> Bruce Whitmore
> 1994C 37/40+ "Astralis"
> Madeira Beach, FL
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
>
> --
> *From:* coltrek--- via CnC-List 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* "colt...@verizon.net" 
> *Sent:* Sunday, April 22, 2018 9:07 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Wax
>
> No, it's a polymer. And I don't claim to understand the difference between
> a wax and a polymer, but it's supposed to be better. And although I  am
> using Poli Glow, when I recommended this to my buddy, he was quite
> astounded when he came back through the canal, and did not have a mustache.
> Everybody with wax on gelcoat will have a mustache. But it just did not
> stick to Rejex . And he was sold.
> Poli Glow is an acrylic. It's kind of a heavy build up as someone else
> just mentioned. I just stripped mine last year and started over . Poli Glow
> is where you go when your gelcoat coat is too old for a wax or polymer.
> Bill Coleman
> C 39
> --
> On Sunday, April 22, 2018 Rick Brass via CnC-List 
> wrote:
> Sounds a lot like PoliGlow or New Glass except a lot less expensive.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] On Behalf Of Bill
> Coleman via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2018 12:59 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Bill Coleman 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax
>
> Rejex.
>
> http://rejex.com/marine/
>
>
> http://www.truevalue.com/product/car-wax-polymer-sealant-and-stain-barrier-1
> 6-oz-/14823.uts
>
>
> Way better than any Wax I have ever used. Everyone I have suggested it to
> swears by it.
>
> Bill Coleman
> C 39 Erie, PA
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] On Behalf Of Andrew
> Burton via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, April 20, 2018 3:37 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Andrew Burton
> Subject: Stus-List Wax
>
> Ok, assembled wisdom, what is the best wax to keep my gel coat shiny all
> summer? Peregrine was awl gripped so just used Awl Care, but I'm not sure
> that would work for gel coat.
> Cheers
> Andy
> Formerly,
> C 40
> Peregrine
> Now,
> Baltic 47
> Masquerade
>
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
>
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your 

Re: Stus-List Wax

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all, 

I have historically had very good experience with PoliGlow in the Chicago area 
- 16 years, as a matter of fact.  That said, for some reason here in Florida, 
people swear at the stuff (rather than swearing by it).  They say it yellows 
and is nearly impossible to remove. I don't know the reality either way down 
here, at least as of yet.
I understand the remover is ammonia (and industrial strength at that).  How 
difficult is it to remove in reality?  

For those of you who have worked with it in year-round hot, sunny, seawater 
exposed environments, what say to about the stuff?
I'd really like to go back to it, but I've gotten an awful lot of pushback from 
the locals... 

Thanks for your input, 
 Bruce Whitmore
1994C 37/40+ "Astralis"Madeira Beach, FL 
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: coltrek--- via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "colt...@verizon.net" 
 Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2018 9:07 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax
   
No, it's a polymer. And I don't claim to understand the difference between a 
wax and a polymer, but it's supposed to be better. And although I  am using 
Poli Glow, when I recommended this to my buddy, he was quite astounded when he 
came back through the canal, and did not have a mustache. Everybody with wax on 
gelcoat will have a mustache. But it just did not stick to Rejex . And he was 
sold.
 Poli Glow is an acrylic. It's kind of a heavy build up as someone else just 
mentioned. I just stripped mine last year and started over . Poli Glow is where 
you go when your gelcoat coat is too old for a wax or polymer. Bill Coleman
C 39On Sunday, April 22, 2018 Rick Brass via CnC-List  
wrote:
Sounds a lot like PoliGlow or New Glass except a lot less expensive.

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Coleman via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2018 12:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax

Rejex.

http://rejex.com/marine/

http://www.truevalue.com/product/car-wax-polymer-sealant-and-stain-barrier-1
6-oz-/14823.uts


Way better than any Wax I have ever used. Everyone I have suggested it to
swears by it.

Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie, PA

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 20, 2018 3:37 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Stus-List Wax

Ok, assembled wisdom, what is the best wax to keep my gel coat shiny all
summer? Peregrine was awl gripped so just used Awl Care, but I'm not sure
that would work for gel coat.
Cheers
Andy
Formerly,
 C 40
Peregrine
Now,
Baltic 47
Masquerade

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA 02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260
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Re: Stus-List water tank level sensor

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Those level sensors are absolute crap.  Immersion in the water inevitably
means corrosion of the wires and bands.  Even if you get them working it
won't be a lasting repair.  I moved to a capacitance sensor system that
doesn't penetrate the tanks.  It's the iSeries made by TechEdge.
https://tankedge.com/products.html

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mon, Apr 23, 2018, 9:41 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I discovered last fall that my boat actually has sensors in the three
> water tanks.  There are small lights on the panel and double/triple throw
> switches that appear to allow you to turn it on and switch from tank sensor
> to tank sensor.  I think the lights correspond to 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, full , but
> they don’t currently work.  I pulled one of the tank inserts out yesterday
> so I could see what it was.  Photos are here:
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/gL6kV2e7JQeVvwM43
>
> Is anyone familiar with these?  How can I check to see if the sender has
> failed or it is something else?
> Thanks- Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List water tank level sensor

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I discovered last fall that my boat actually has sensors in the three water 
tanks.  There are small lights on the panel and double/triple throw switches 
that appear to allow you to turn it on and switch from tank sensor to tank 
sensor.  I think the lights correspond to 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, full , but they don’t 
currently work.  I pulled one of the tank inserts out yesterday so I could see 
what it was.  Photos are here:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/gL6kV2e7JQeVvwM43 


Is anyone familiar with these?  How can I check to see if the sender has failed 
or it is something else?  
Thanks- Dave

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List universal m4-30 air filter

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Maybe.  I didn't perceive that from your original description.  If it
doesn't terminate in the presence of the suction from the air intake then
even the oil drop out canister won't be able to fix the problem.

Josh

On Mon, Apr 23, 2018, 9:26 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Josh- I don’t have a port on the side of the air intake.  The orginal
> hose was just dangling nearby.  I notice that there is a small wire loop
> near the air intake opening that is about the right size for the tubing.
> Perhaps it was originally held in place by that?  Dave
>
> On Apr 23, 2018, at 8:22 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Dave,
>
> The can only has 2 lines that enter at the top.  As you observed one comes
> from the valve cover.  The other goes to the original port on the side of
> the air intake.  The 2 hoses that appear to be coming from the bottom are
> engine raw water running to a loop seal which is mounted on the wall behind
> the oil canister.
>
> Josh
>
> On Apr 23, 2018 7:46 AM, "David Knecht via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Josh- Thanks for the info.  This looks like a fairly straightforward
> mod which should clean up the oil.  I see the line running from the valve
> cover to your new canister.  There are two other lines attached to the
> canister.  The one on the bottom I am presuming is a drain.  Where does the
> other one go? Is it just open toward the bottom of the engine?   Dave
>
> On Apr 23, 2018, at 1:11 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> The tube is supposed to vent accumulated  gasses to the intake.  Usually
> exhaust gas blow by the rings.  Some oil carry over is normal and a brillow
> paf style if separator can usually be found at the valve cover where the
> tube attaches.  Excessive blow by is indicative of stuck, worn, or broken
> rings or other internal problems.
>
> I have no idea what the PO's maintenance practices were or what oil he
> used.  What I do know is that I got stuck rings the very first season I
> owned the boat.  I successfully unstuck them but had a similarly wet air
> filter as you described.  I installed a blow by canaster to monitor and
> catch the oil instead of soaking the air filter.  It allows me to monitor
> the amount of blow by oil too.  I've been using Amsoil diesel oil since and
> in recent years have noticed a considerable decrease in the amount of oil
> accumulated.
>
> You can see the canister in this video.
> https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ
>
> And you can buy one here.
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JQAJY9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4Qw3AbJ0ZVY8W
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Sun, Apr 22, 2018, 10:24 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I removed the air filter holder from my engine today to check on whether
>> it needed cleaning and was surprised to find the filter soaked in oil and a
>> significant amount of oil inside the housing.  I found there was a
>> tygon/rubber tube running from a fitting on the top of the engine that
>> ended just above the air filter housing and had dripped oil such that it
>> then ran into the case.
>>
>> 1.  What is this tube and what it is connected to?  I can’t find it in my
>> Universal manual.  Oil pressure relief?  If so, why would oil be coming out
>> of it?  I had not noticed the engine oil being low, so I don’t think it is
>> always leaking, but not sure.
>> 2.  Where should the tube go?  It seems like it will create a mess
>> whereever it goes but I presume it is supposed to drain into the the space
>> below the engine, but it is too short to do that effectively.  Dave
>>
>> Aries
>> 1990 C 34+
>> New London, CT
>>
>> 
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> Dr. David Knecht
> Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology
> University of Connecticut
> 91 N. Eagleville Rd.
> Storrs, CT 06269-3125
> 860-486-2200
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   

Re: Stus-List C 37+ Sails for Sale

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

The spinnakers are symmetrical. - Ron

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2018 8:05 PM
To: C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 37+ Sails for Sale

 

Ron,

 Are the spinnakers symetrical or asym?

Gary

S/V Kaylarah




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Re: Stus-List universal m4-30 air filter

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Hi Josh- I don’t have a port on the side of the air intake.  The orginal hose 
was just dangling nearby.  I notice that there is a small wire loop near the 
air intake opening that is about the right size for the tubing.  Perhaps it was 
originally held in place by that?  Dave

> On Apr 23, 2018, at 8:22 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Dave, 
> 
> The can only has 2 lines that enter at the top.  As you observed one comes 
> from the valve cover.  The other goes to the original port on the side of the 
> air intake.  The 2 hoses that appear to be coming from the bottom are engine 
> raw water running to a loop seal which is mounted on the wall behind the oil 
> canister.
> 
> Josh 
> 
> On Apr 23, 2018 7:46 AM, "David Knecht via CnC-List"  > wrote:
> Hi Josh- Thanks for the info.  This looks like a fairly straightforward mod 
> which should clean up the oil.  I see the line running from the valve cover 
> to your new canister.  There are two other lines attached to the canister.  
> The one on the bottom I am presuming is a drain.  Where does the other one 
> go? Is it just open toward the bottom of the engine?   Dave
> 
>> On Apr 23, 2018, at 1:11 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>> > wrote:
>> 
>> The tube is supposed to vent accumulated  gasses to the intake.  Usually 
>> exhaust gas blow by the rings.  Some oil carry over is normal and a brillow 
>> paf style if separator can usually be found at the valve cover where the 
>> tube attaches.  Excessive blow by is indicative of stuck, worn, or broken 
>> rings or other internal problems.
>> 
>> I have no idea what the PO's maintenance practices were or what oil he used. 
>>  What I do know is that I got stuck rings the very first season I owned the 
>> boat.  I successfully unstuck them but had a similarly wet air filter as you 
>> described.  I installed a blow by canaster to monitor and catch the oil 
>> instead of soaking the air filter.  It allows me to monitor the amount of 
>> blow by oil too.  I've been using Amsoil diesel oil since and in recent 
>> years have noticed a considerable decrease in the amount of oil accumulated.
>> 
>> You can see the canister in this video.
>> https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ 
>> 
>> And you can buy one here. 
>> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JQAJY9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4Qw3AbJ0ZVY8W 
>> 
>> 
>> Josh Muckley 
>> S/V Sea Hawk 
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Sun, Apr 22, 2018, 10:24 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
>> > wrote:
>> I removed the air filter holder from my engine today to check on whether it 
>> needed cleaning and was surprised to find the filter soaked in oil and a 
>> significant amount of oil inside the housing.  I found there was a 
>> tygon/rubber tube running from a fitting on the top of the engine that ended 
>> just above the air filter housing and had dripped oil such that it then ran 
>> into the case.  
>> 
>> 1.  What is this tube and what it is connected to?  I can’t find it in my 
>> Universal manual.  Oil pressure relief?  If so, why would oil be coming out 
>> of it?  I had not noticed the engine oil being low, so I don’t think it is 
>> always leaking, but not sure.
>> 2.  Where should the tube go?  It seems like it will create a mess whereever 
>> it goes but I presume it is supposed to drain into the the space below the 
>> engine, but it is too short to do that effectively.  Dave
>> 
>> Aries
>> 1990 C 34+
>> New London, CT
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
>> 
> 
> Dr. David Knecht
> Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology
> University of Connecticut 
> 91 N. Eagleville Rd.
> Storrs, CT 06269-3125
> 860-486-2200
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is 

Re: Stus-List Sherwood water pump

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Like others, I believe the vanes will orient themselves once the pump is
used.  I've never bothered to orient them.

I understand completely about changing the impeller in the Sherwood pump.
After changing the impeller on my Sherwood pump, I noticed it was leaking
slightly at the shaft.

After doing some research, I replaced Touche's Sherwood G908 pump on my
Universal 25XPB with an Oberdorfer N202M-908. I posted a thread on the list
about the change last month.

Highly recommend this change. The Oberdorfer impeller is easily changed by
removing the cover from the front.  Also, the Oberdorfer pump is about
$200 less
than the Sherwood.

The N202M pumps have been around for decades.  The design is more
traditional in my opinion.  The Sherwood's tend to leak at the seal.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sun, Apr 22, 2018, 9:35 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I checked the impeller on my Sherwood water pump and it was OK, but I am
> unclear how to reassemble it.  Here is a diagram of the design.
>
>
> http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/catalogs/catalog_group.php?owner=mdd_ident=200144-51=M4-30%20/%20M4-30A=Universal=Sherwood%20Water%20Pump_position==200144
>
> 1. It is unclear to me which way it rotates.  I am guessing it would
> rotate such that the vanes are moving from the inlet opening toward the
> outlet opening, but otherwise I don’t know how to tell.
>
> 2. I watched some YouTube videos about reassembly to get the vanes bent in
> the correct way and nothing I have seen describes this “new style” pump.
> The screws on this one come in from the rear (PITA to remove) and the key
> shaft are on the engine side.  The housing comes off with the tubing.  The
> videos describe rotating the impeller onto the staft in the correct
> direction while inserting the impeller into the housing.  But with the
> housing and shaft on different parts of the pump, you can’t do that.  I am
> guessing that you would put the impeller on the shaft and then somehow try
> to bend the vanes as you push the housing over it, but that seems like it
> will be really hard to get all the vanes right, especially because you
> can’t see them once the housing starts to cover the impeller.  I am hoping
> there is a “trick” to doing this that I am missing.  Thanks- Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List universal m4-30 air filter

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Dave,

The can only has 2 lines that enter at the top.  As you observed one comes
from the valve cover.  The other goes to the original port on the side of
the air intake.  The 2 hoses that appear to be coming from the bottom are
engine raw water running to a loop seal which is mounted on the wall behind
the oil canister.

Josh

On Apr 23, 2018 7:46 AM, "David Knecht via CnC-List" 
wrote:

Hi Josh- Thanks for the info.  This looks like a fairly straightforward mod
which should clean up the oil.  I see the line running from the valve cover
to your new canister.  There are two other lines attached to the canister.
The one on the bottom I am presuming is a drain.  Where does the other one
go? Is it just open toward the bottom of the engine?   Dave

On Apr 23, 2018, at 1:11 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

The tube is supposed to vent accumulated  gasses to the intake.  Usually
exhaust gas blow by the rings.  Some oil carry over is normal and a brillow
paf style if separator can usually be found at the valve cover where the
tube attaches.  Excessive blow by is indicative of stuck, worn, or broken
rings or other internal problems.

I have no idea what the PO's maintenance practices were or what oil he
used.  What I do know is that I got stuck rings the very first season I
owned the boat.  I successfully unstuck them but had a similarly wet air
filter as you described.  I installed a blow by canaster to monitor and
catch the oil instead of soaking the air filter.  It allows me to monitor
the amount of blow by oil too.  I've been using Amsoil diesel oil since and
in recent years have noticed a considerable decrease in the amount of oil
accumulated.

You can see the canister in this video.
https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ

And you can buy one here.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JQAJY9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4Qw3AbJ0ZVY8W

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Sun, Apr 22, 2018, 10:24 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I removed the air filter holder from my engine today to check on whether
> it needed cleaning and was surprised to find the filter soaked in oil and a
> significant amount of oil inside the housing.  I found there was a
> tygon/rubber tube running from a fitting on the top of the engine that
> ended just above the air filter housing and had dripped oil such that it
> then ran into the case.
>
> 1.  What is this tube and what it is connected to?  I can’t find it in my
> Universal manual.  Oil pressure relief?  If so, why would oil be coming out
> of it?  I had not noticed the engine oil being low, so I don’t think it is
> always leaking, but not sure.
> 2.  Where should the tube go?  It seems like it will create a mess
> whereever it goes but I presume it is supposed to drain into the the space
> below the engine, but it is too short to do that effectively.  Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
> 
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


Dr. David Knecht
Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology
University of Connecticut
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
Storrs, CT 06269-3125
860-486-2200

___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List Wax

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

There is one way to compare different techniques and products and I would
be willing to sacrifice my deck to a side by side comparison. Everyone side
by side this Saturday. I will judge and not interfere with technique.

S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40 XL
Havre de Grace , MD
FB blog : thenext14years
Brian and Manon
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Re: Stus-List universal m4-30 air filter

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Hi Josh- Thanks for the info.  This looks like a fairly straightforward mod 
which should clean up the oil.  I see the line running from the valve cover to 
your new canister.  There are two other lines attached to the canister.  The 
one on the bottom I am presuming is a drain.  Where does the other one go? Is 
it just open toward the bottom of the engine?   Dave

> On Apr 23, 2018, at 1:11 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The tube is supposed to vent accumulated  gasses to the intake.  Usually 
> exhaust gas blow by the rings.  Some oil carry over is normal and a brillow 
> paf style if separator can usually be found at the valve cover where the tube 
> attaches.  Excessive blow by is indicative of stuck, worn, or broken rings or 
> other internal problems.
> 
> I have no idea what the PO's maintenance practices were or what oil he used.  
> What I do know is that I got stuck rings the very first season I owned the 
> boat.  I successfully unstuck them but had a similarly wet air filter as you 
> described.  I installed a blow by canaster to monitor and catch the oil 
> instead of soaking the air filter.  It allows me to monitor the amount of 
> blow by oil too.  I've been using Amsoil diesel oil since and in recent years 
> have noticed a considerable decrease in the amount of oil accumulated.
> 
> You can see the canister in this video.
> https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ 
> 
> And you can buy one here. 
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JQAJY9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4Qw3AbJ0ZVY8W 
> 
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> 
> 
> On Sun, Apr 22, 2018, 10:24 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
> > wrote:
> I removed the air filter holder from my engine today to check on whether it 
> needed cleaning and was surprised to find the filter soaked in oil and a 
> significant amount of oil inside the housing.  I found there was a 
> tygon/rubber tube running from a fitting on the top of the engine that ended 
> just above the air filter housing and had dripped oil such that it then ran 
> into the case.  
> 
> 1.  What is this tube and what it is connected to?  I can’t find it in my 
> Universal manual.  Oil pressure relief?  If so, why would oil be coming out 
> of it?  I had not noticed the engine oil being low, so I don’t think it is 
> always leaking, but not sure.
> 2.  Where should the tube go?  It seems like it will create a mess whereever 
> it goes but I presume it is supposed to drain into the the space below the 
> engine, but it is too short to do that effectively.  Dave
> 
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

Dr. David Knecht
Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology
University of Connecticut   
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
Storrs, CT 06269-3125
860-486-2200

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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray