Stus-List C&C 33 MK II Bilge pumps

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

Hello,

I have a 1986 C&C 33 MK II.  As well as the electric bilge pump I have the
usual Manual bilge pump in the cockpit.  In addition, there is another
manual bilge pump in the cabin mounted under the Port side settee along the
forward bulkhead.  This cabin bulge pump hose runs to the cockpit bilge
pump which then discharges to a through hull just under the transom.  The
curious part is that there are two thru hulls, side by side under the
transom.  The second thru hull has a bilge hose which runs forward and dead
ends in the bilge with no pump or fittings between the ends.  No other 33
MK II in my harbour has this second through hull or "dead end" hose.  Does
anyone know why this hose is present?

many thanks,  Wade
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Re: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

mine is too, and it was delivered with the 'after market' heat exchanger (but 
no expansion tank).  The sales document lists the engine as fresh water cooled. 
 Never had any issue with the circulating pumps impeller on the engine. (normal 
replacement interval)

Leslie.
Phoenix C&C32 1983


On Mon, 4/30/18, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "Chuck Gilchrest" 
 Date: Monday, April 30, 2018, 11:39 AM
 
 Silly me.  Since I
 bought my 1983 Landfall 35 a bit over 2 years ago, I had
 been under the assumption since there was an
 “expansion tank” on the engine that had coolant
 in it, that it was a fresh water cooled engine from the
 factory.  It is a Yanmar 3HM 30.   No (F) on
 the engine tag.  I had never even bothered to
 look..  Yeah, the heat exchanger looked a bit different
 from the one in the Yanmar manual, but since I’d been
 having a marina commission and decommission my engine each
 year, changing water pump impellers as necessary (“go
 ahead and do it”), I thought all was OK.  I even
 had a raw water pump changed out when the old one was
 demolished due to the “cam” screw backing out
 and galling the inside of the pump.  Turns out
 there’s more going on.  Low and behold, this year,
 when the mechanic looked around the engine, he mentioned
 that it was the first time he’d ever seen a small
 diesel with not one but two raw water pumps.  As it
 turns out, the engine appears to have had a fresh water
 conversion which was made by Sen-Dure, (thus the Sen-Dure
 expansion tank/heat exchanger) and a second external pump
 running off a belt.  So one of the two coolant pumps is
 actually a circulation pump (the one down low on the engine)
 and the other is a raw water pump..the one we replaced last
 year.  Has anyone ever heard of
 C&C converting engines from Raw to Fresh at the factory
 (Barry Carroll, Middletown RI built boat), or is it more
 likely an owner conversion?  My mechanic says that the
 rubber impeller on a raw water pump will never hold up to
 the heat of the interior engine coolant and will always burn
 up  impellers prematurely if I keep things as they
 are.  At one point Yanmar made a fresh water conversion
 kit for 3HM engines, but very unlikely there would be any
 availability considering the motor hasn’t been built
 since 1983.This engine
 is somewhat dastardly in that it is installed backwards with
 a V-Drive, making access to the “front” of the
 motor a really tough job.Right now, I’m at a
 crossroads which involves:Finding a suitable circulation pump
 that is up to the job for the existing system, since I just
 de-scaled the heat exhchanger and bought a new stainless
 mixing elbowFinding the needed parts to do a
 Yanmar factory Fresh water conversionKeep the boat out of the water this
 year and save up to re-power. Lavishing multiple thousands
 at a 36 year old diesel may not be the best way to spend
 money.Any
 suggestions would be welcome..Chuck GilchrestS/V Half Magic1983 Landfall 
35Padanaram, MA  
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 contributions.  Each and every one is greatly
 appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
 PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 

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Re: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Josh,
There is indeed the option of going with the Yanmar “F” bits, but that water 
pump, housing, thermostat, new hoses option is upwards of $500 from what I’ve 
seen.  Then there’s the $1900 heat exchanger to replace the Raw Water version 
AND to top things off, new fuel feed lines from the high pressure pump to the 
injectors that routes around the larger heat exchanger.  And that’s if 
everything is still available.  The folks at Mack Boring think that may be an 
issue for this model engine.
If the Sendure conversion was a factory install, I’m tempted to replace the 
Jabsco unit with a similar or modestly better one and hope for the best as Fred 
has done. Diagrams of the aftermarket system show the pump direction flowing 
coolant into the Block after it has been run through the exchanger.  This would 
mean cooler fluid being run through the pump.  Easier on a rubber impeller...
I really don’t want to spend thousands on the diesel this year...
Chuck Gilchrest 
S/V Half Magic
1983 Landfall 35
Padanaram MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 30, 2018, at 3:33 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> The block for the 3HM35 and the 3HM35F are exactly the same.  Why no try to 
> use the appropriate water pump for the 3HM35F?  There is probably a blanked 
> off plate on the front of the engine where the pump should go.  Going this 
> route also allows you to use the normal belts.
> 
> See page 17/18
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yNHdjQTRoMVFZMEk/view?usp=drivesdk
> 
> Here's a picture of the front of a 3HM35F
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yUGs2NjhBMEhfQUU/view?usp=drivesdk
> 
> Here's the whole folder of Yanmar stuff. 
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yTkdrWTZVX3hRM28
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Mon, Apr 30, 2018, 2:39 PM Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Silly me.  Since I bought my 1983 Landfall 35 a bit over 2 years ago, I had 
>> been under the assumption since there was an “expansion tank” on the engine 
>> that had coolant in it, that it was a fresh water cooled engine from the 
>> factory.  It is a Yanmar 3HM 30.   No (F) on the engine tag.  I had never 
>> even bothered to look..  Yeah, the heat exchanger looked a bit different 
>> from the one in the Yanmar manual, but since I’d been having a marina 
>> commission and decommission my engine each year, changing water pump 
>> impellers as necessary (“go ahead and do it”), I thought all was OK.  I even 
>> had a raw water pump changed out when the old one was demolished due to the 
>> “cam” screw backing out and galling the inside of the pump.  Turns out 
>> there’s more going on.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Low and behold, this year, when the mechanic looked around the engine, he 
>> mentioned that it was the first time he’d ever seen a small diesel with not 
>> one but two raw water pumps.  As it turns out, the engine appears to have 
>> had a fresh water conversion which was made by Sen-Dure, (thus the Sen-Dure 
>> expansion tank/heat exchanger) and a second external pump running off a 
>> belt.  So one of the two coolant pumps is actually a circulation pump (the 
>> one down low on the engine) and the other is a raw water pump..the one we 
>> replaced last year.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Has anyone ever heard of C&C converting engines from Raw to Fresh at the 
>> factory (Barry Carroll, Middletown RI built boat), or is it more likely an 
>> owner conversion?  My mechanic says that the rubber impeller on a raw water 
>> pump will never hold up to the heat of the interior engine coolant and will 
>> always burn up  impellers prematurely if I keep things as they are.  At one 
>> point Yanmar made a fresh water conversion kit for 3HM engines, but very 
>> unlikely there would be any availability considering the motor hasn’t been 
>> built since 1983.
>> 
>> This engine is somewhat dastardly in that it is installed backwards with a 
>> V-Drive, making access to the “front” of the motor a really tough job.
>> 
>> Right now, I’m at a crossroads which involves:
>> 
>> Finding a suitable circulation pump that is up to the job for the existing 
>> system, since I just de-scaled the heat exhchanger and bought a new 
>> stainless mixing elbow
>> Finding the needed parts to do a Yanmar factory Fresh water conversion
>> Keep the boat out of the water this year and save up to re-power. Lavishing 
>> multiple thousands at a 36 year old diesel may not be the best way to spend 
>> money.
>> Any suggestions would be welcome..
>> 
>> Chuck Gilchrest
>> 
>> S/V Half Magic
>> 
>> 1983 Landfall 35
>> 
>> Padanaram, MA
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Th

Re: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Chuck,

It looks like the group has provided the relevant information. All I wanted to 
add was that “Ronin” came with a Yanmar 3HM (27 hp) that was sea-water cooled. 
After a very unfortunate set of circumstances involving information about the 
two thermostats, we had to have the entire upper end rebuilt. This would have 
been in the winter of 1998/99. We were able to convert the sea-water setup to a 
fresh-water cooling system using an OEM Yanmar heat exchanger. This did not 
require any addition raw-water pumps. Anyway, our new configuration is 
considered the 3HMF.

When we did this the mechanic made sure that we understood that we were getting 
the original Yanmar configuration and quality. And that we probably snagged the 
absolute last OEM fresh water heat exchanger out there…

Were I in your shoes and planning on keeping your LF 35, I wouldn’t hesitate to 
move up to the new Yanmars. They are very impressive. I’d almost wish my engine 
were to go patas arriba in order to justify getting a new power plant.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Apr 30, 2018, at 2:39 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Silly me.  Since I bought my 1983 Landfall 35 a bit over 2 years ago, I had 
> been under the assumption since there was an “expansion tank” on the engine 
> that had coolant in it, that it was a fresh water cooled engine from the 
> factory.  It is a Yanmar 3HM 30.   No (F) on the engine tag.  I had never 
> even bothered to look..  Yeah, the heat exchanger looked a bit different from 
> the one in the Yanmar manual, but since I’d been having a marina commission 
> and decommission my engine each year, changing water pump impellers as 
> necessary (“go ahead and do it”), I thought all was OK.  I even had a raw 
> water pump changed out when the old one was demolished due to the “cam” screw 
> backing out and galling the inside of the pump.  Turns out there’s more going 
> on.
>  
> Low and behold, this year, when the mechanic looked around the engine, he 
> mentioned that it was the first time he’d ever seen a small diesel with not 
> one but two raw water pumps.  As it turns out, the engine appears to have had 
> a fresh water conversion which was made by Sen-Dure, (thus the Sen-Dure 
> expansion tank/heat exchanger) and a second external pump running off a belt. 
>  So one of the two coolant pumps is actually a circulation pump (the one down 
> low on the engine) and the other is a raw water pump..the one we replaced 
> last year.
>  
> Has anyone ever heard of C&C converting engines from Raw to Fresh at the 
> factory (Barry Carroll, Middletown RI built boat), or is it more likely an 
> owner conversion?  My mechanic says that the rubber impeller on a raw water 
> pump will never hold up to the heat of the interior engine coolant and will 
> always burn up  impellers prematurely if I keep things as they are.  At one 
> point Yanmar made a fresh water conversion kit for 3HM engines, but very 
> unlikely there would be any availability considering the motor hasn’t been 
> built since 1983.
> This engine is somewhat dastardly in that it is installed backwards with a 
> V-Drive, making access to the “front” of the motor a really tough job.
> Right now, I’m at a crossroads which involves:
> Finding a suitable circulation pump that is up to the job for the existing 
> system, since I just de-scaled the heat exhchanger and bought a new stainless 
> mixing elbow
> Finding the needed parts to do a Yanmar factory Fresh water conversion
> Keep the boat out of the water this year and save up to re-power. Lavishing 
> multiple thousands at a 36 year old diesel may not be the best way to spend 
> money.
> Any suggestions would be welcome..
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> 1983 Landfall 35
> Padanaram, MA
>  
>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Battery CCA Rating for a "Cold" Diesel Engine

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

As I recall the CCA for Touche's Universal 25XPB is 190.

Dennis C.

On Mon, Apr 30, 2018 at 5:09 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> No question, a bigger battery would work. But I would think that for just
> starting, you really need a much smaller battery. These engines are small.
> Tractors using these engines have 450 CCA batteries. If they work there,
> they should work on the boat. I would save the weight for the house.
>
>
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> Sent from Mail  for
> Windows 10
>
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of
> svrebeccaleah via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, April 30, 2018 4:51:06 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* svrebeccaleah
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Battery CCA Rating for a "Cold" Diesel Engine
>
> Edd, I would go with nothing less than 750 cca, space permitting.  The
> more the better. The bigger  battery will last longer. I am using a group
> 27 to start my Yanmar 4jhe44. I took out a 20 year old group 31 that was
> still working.
>
>
>
> Doug Mountjoy
> Rebecca Leah
> LF39
> Port Orchard YC, WA.
>
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
> Date: 4/30/18 13:23 (GMT-08:00)
> To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
> Cc: Edd Schillay 
> Subject: Stus-List Battery CCA Rating for a "Cold" Diesel Engine
>
> Listers,
>
> What would you recommend to be a good CCA rating for a starting battery to
> warm up glow plugs and start a “cold” 35HP diesel engine?
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
> 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Parallel Batteries -- Double the Ah, but Double the CCA too??? (Edd Schillay)

[Thomas Delaney via CnC-List]

Hi Edd,

CCA, AH, and reserve capacity double if you put the batteries in parallel.
Here is the documentation from East Penn I used to set up my MPPT to work
with my AGMs, it has lots of useful battery information:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QU0dr-iThbbhymUEX4F8EV9e9t1QWiWr/view?usp=drivesdk


Best,
Tom

On Mon, Apr 30, 2018, 5:18 PM  wrote:

> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Edd Schillay 
> To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2018 17:07:50 -0400
> Subject: Stus-List Parallel Batteries -- Double the Ah, but Double the CCA
> too???
> Listers,
>
> If you put two 12V batteries in parallel, I know you double the amp-hours.
> But does that also double the CCA?
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
> CnC-List mailing list
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
-- 
---
Thomas C. Delaney
917-337-5524
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Re: Stus-List Parallel Batteries -- Double the Ah, but Double the CCA too???

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

You do.
Sent from Mail for Windows 10


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Edd Schillay via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2018 5:07:50 PM
To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List
Cc: Edd Schillay
Subject: Stus-List Parallel Batteries -- Double the Ah, but Double the CCA 
too???

Listers,

If you put two 12V batteries in parallel, I know you double the amp-hours. But 
does that also double the CCA?

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's 
Log


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Re: Stus-List Battery CCA Rating for a "Cold" Diesel Engine

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

No question, a bigger battery would work. But I would think that for just 
starting, you really need a much smaller battery. These engines are small. 
Tractors using these engines have 450 CCA batteries. If they work there, they 
should work on the boat. I would save the weight for the house.

Marek

Sent from Mail for Windows 10


From: CnC-List  on behalf of svrebeccaleah via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2018 4:51:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: svrebeccaleah
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery CCA Rating for a "Cold" Diesel Engine

Edd, I would go with nothing less than 750 cca, space permitting.  The more the 
better. The bigger  battery will last longer. I am using a group 27 to start my 
Yanmar 4jhe44. I took out a 20 year old group 31 that was still working.



Doug Mountjoy
Rebecca Leah
LF39
Port Orchard YC, WA.



 Original message 
From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
Date: 4/30/18 13:23 (GMT-08:00)
To: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
Cc: Edd Schillay 
Subject: Stus-List Battery CCA Rating for a "Cold" Diesel Engine

Listers,

What would you recommend to be a good CCA rating for a starting battery to warm 
up glow plugs and start a “cold” 35HP diesel engine?

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's 
Log







___

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Re: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Just checked my past Amazon purchases.  Looks like metal to me.  Probably
bronze.

Globe Marine Run-Dry® Model 418 Impeller Replaces Jabsco 22799-0001, Ancor
J050016, CEF 500129, Vetus IMP 00101, Yanmar 124223-42090
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C9LS2QM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rZ45AbEXMY51P

Josh

On Mon, Apr 30, 2018, 5:36 PM Josh Muckley  wrote:

> I'll check when I get home regarding my boat's pump but the impeller for
> the industrial pump at work has a metal sleeve.  I can't say for sure that
> there is NO plastic, but at least the shaft interface is not.
>
> Josh
>
> On Mon, Apr 30, 2018, 5:18 PM Jim Reinardy via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Perhaps they have changed the design, but the Globe impellers I used for
>> a while on my old Atomic 4 equipped Catalina had a plastic inner ring with
>> a keyway that the shaft went into.  That boat was raw water cooled in Lake
>> Michigan, so no heat issues in that pump. The plastic ring cracked in less
>> than a season of use.  The shaft started spinning inside it and water flow
>> stopped.  I spotted the lack of water exhaust before any real damage got
>> done, but I would need to know they are using metal inner rings before I
>> would consider them again.
>>
>> Jim Reinardy
>> C&C 30-2 "Firewater"
>> Milwaukee, WI
>>
>>
>> - Original Message -
>>
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM
>>
>> From: "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" 
>> Date: 4/30/18 1:56 pm
>> To: "C&C List" 
>> Cc: "Josh Muckley" 
>>
>> I have a Globe Impeller in my boat and have started using them at work
>> too.  They definitely seem to live up to their claims.  At work we would
>> routinely destroy even brand new rubber impellers since they would sit for
>> months and be allowed to dry out.  Similarly I have gone 4 years between
>> changes on my boat's impeller.  I didn't have to replace it when I did but
>> rather chose to and then later discovered some cracks on the vanes.
>>
>> I also run a SpeedSeal Life which I'm sure helps.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Apr 30, 2018, 4:28 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> What about those Blue Globe Impellers? They seem much better that the
>>> neoprene style of old, and seem to be a silicone blend, or something. They
>>> seem to hold up much better, and they also have a hardier Red Impeller,
>>> which I believe is intended for Diesel, and I think Higher Temps.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Bill Coleman
>>>
>>> C&C 39 Erie
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Chuck
>>> Gilchrest via CnC-List
>>> *Sent:* Monday, April 30, 2018 3:56 PM
>>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> *Cc:* Chuck Gilchrest
>>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Fred,
>>>
>>> Mine was Jabsco as well.  My engine tech said he’s concerned that a
>>> Jabsco rubber impeller wouldn’t be up to the task of the heat in a
>>> circulation pump.  Any thoughts there?  I suspect it would need to be
>>> checked often just like the raw pump impeller.  Maybe I just need to
>>> inspect the Sendure exchanger for any blockages, change impeller and get
>>> the boat in the water.
>>>
>>> Chuck Gilchrest
>>>
>>> Half Magic
>>>
>>> 83 35 LF
>>>
>>> Padanaram MA
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>>
>>> On Apr 30, 2018, at 3:04 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Chuck — my 1979 Landfall 38 (Middletown-built) appears to have come with
>>> a factory-installed Sen-Dure heat-exchanger and added circulation pump (a
>>> Jabsco, which I have since replaced with another Jabsco, rather than try to
>>> rebuild).  I also have the challenges of no access (V-drive).
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> — Fred
>>>
>>>
>>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>>> S/V *Oceanis* (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield,
>>> WI   :^(
>>>
>>>
>>> On Apr 30, 2018, at 1:39 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Silly me.  Since I bought my 1983 Landfall 35 a bit over 2 years ago, I
>>> had been under the assumption since there was an “expansion tank” on the
>>> engine that had coolant in it, that it was a fresh water cooled engine from
>>> the factory.  It is a Yanmar 3HM 30.   No (F) on the engine tag.  I had
>>> never even bothered to look..  Yeah, the heat exchanger looked a bit
>>> different from the one in the Yanmar manual, but since I’d been having a
>>> marina commission and decommission my engine each year, changing water pump
>>> impellers as necessary (“go ahead and do it”), I thought all was OK.  I
>>> even had a raw water pump changed out when the old one was demolished due
>>> to the “cam” screw backing out and galling the inside of the pump.  Turns
>>> out there’s more going on.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Low and behold, this year, when the mechanic looked around the engine,
>>> he mentioned that it was the first time he’d ever seen a small diesel wi

Re: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I'll check when I get home regarding my boat's pump but the impeller for
the industrial pump at work has a metal sleeve.  I can't say for sure that
there is NO plastic, but at least the shaft interface is not.

Josh

On Mon, Apr 30, 2018, 5:18 PM Jim Reinardy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Perhaps they have changed the design, but the Globe impellers I used for a
> while on my old Atomic 4 equipped Catalina had a plastic inner ring with a
> keyway that the shaft went into.  That boat was raw water cooled in Lake
> Michigan, so no heat issues in that pump. The plastic ring cracked in less
> than a season of use.  The shaft started spinning inside it and water flow
> stopped.  I spotted the lack of water exhaust before any real damage got
> done, but I would need to know they are using metal inner rings before I
> would consider them again.
>
> Jim Reinardy
> C&C 30-2 "Firewater"
> Milwaukee, WI
>
>
> - Original Message -
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM
>
> From: "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" 
> Date: 4/30/18 1:56 pm
> To: "C&C List" 
> Cc: "Josh Muckley" 
>
> I have a Globe Impeller in my boat and have started using them at work
> too.  They definitely seem to live up to their claims.  At work we would
> routinely destroy even brand new rubber impellers since they would sit for
> months and be allowed to dry out.  Similarly I have gone 4 years between
> changes on my boat's impeller.  I didn't have to replace it when I did but
> rather chose to and then later discovered some cracks on the vanes.
>
> I also run a SpeedSeal Life which I'm sure helps.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
> On Mon, Apr 30, 2018, 4:28 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> What about those Blue Globe Impellers? They seem much better that the
>> neoprene style of old, and seem to be a silicone blend, or something. They
>> seem to hold up much better, and they also have a hardier Red Impeller,
>> which I believe is intended for Diesel, and I think Higher Temps.
>>
>>
>>
>> Bill Coleman
>>
>> C&C 39 Erie
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Chuck
>> Gilchrest via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Monday, April 30, 2018 3:56 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Chuck Gilchrest
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM
>>
>>
>>
>> Fred,
>>
>> Mine was Jabsco as well.  My engine tech said he’s concerned that a
>> Jabsco rubber impeller wouldn’t be up to the task of the heat in a
>> circulation pump.  Any thoughts there?  I suspect it would need to be
>> checked often just like the raw pump impeller.  Maybe I just need to
>> inspect the Sendure exchanger for any blockages, change impeller and get
>> the boat in the water.
>>
>> Chuck Gilchrest
>>
>> Half Magic
>>
>> 83 35 LF
>>
>> Padanaram MA
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>
>> On Apr 30, 2018, at 3:04 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Chuck — my 1979 Landfall 38 (Middletown-built) appears to have come with
>> a factory-installed Sen-Dure heat-exchanger and added circulation pump (a
>> Jabsco, which I have since replaced with another Jabsco, rather than try to
>> rebuild).  I also have the challenges of no access (V-drive).
>>
>>
>>
>> — Fred
>>
>>
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V *Oceanis* (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>>
>>
>> On Apr 30, 2018, at 1:39 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> Silly me.  Since I bought my 1983 Landfall 35 a bit over 2 years ago, I
>> had been under the assumption since there was an “expansion tank” on the
>> engine that had coolant in it, that it was a fresh water cooled engine from
>> the factory.  It is a Yanmar 3HM 30.   No (F) on the engine tag.  I had
>> never even bothered to look..  Yeah, the heat exchanger looked a bit
>> different from the one in the Yanmar manual, but since I’d been having a
>> marina commission and decommission my engine each year, changing water pump
>> impellers as necessary (“go ahead and do it”), I thought all was OK.  I
>> even had a raw water pump changed out when the old one was demolished due
>> to the “cam” screw backing out and galling the inside of the pump.  Turns
>> out there’s more going on.
>>
>>
>>
>> Low and behold, this year, when the mechanic looked around the engine, he
>> mentioned that it was the first time he’d ever seen a small diesel with not
>> one but two raw water pumps.  As it turns out, the engine appears to have
>> had a fresh water conversion which was made by Sen-Dure, (thus the Sen-Dure
>> expansion tank/heat exchanger) and a second external pump running off a
>> belt.  So one of the two coolant pumps is actually a circulation pump (the
>> one down low on the engine) and the other is a raw water pump..the one we
>> replaced last year.
>>
>>
>>
>> Has anyone ever heard of C&C converting engines from Raw to

Re: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

Perhaps they have changed the design, but the Globe impellers I used for a 
while on my old Atomic 4 equipped Catalina had a plastic inner ring with a 
keyway that the shaft went into.  That boat was raw water cooled in Lake 
Michigan, so no heat issues in that pump. The plastic ring cracked in less than 
a season of use.  The shaft started spinning inside it and water flow stopped.  
I spotted the lack of water exhaust before any real damage got done, but I 
would need to know they are using metal inner rings before I would consider 
them again.
 
Jim Reinardy
C&C 30-2 "Firewater"
Milwaukee, WI
 
- Original Message - Subject: Re: Stus-List Fresh Water 
Conversion Yanmar 3HM
From: "Josh Muckley via CnC-List" 
Date: 4/30/18 1:56 pm
To: "C&C List" 
Cc: "Josh Muckley" 

 I have a Globe Impeller in my boat and have started using them at work too.  
They definitely seem to live up to their claims.  At work we would routinely 
destroy even brand new rubber impellers since they would sit for months and be 
allowed to dry out.  Similarly I have gone 4 years between changes on my boat's 
impeller.  I didn't have to replace it when I did but rather chose to and then 
later discovered some cracks on the vanes.  
I also run a SpeedSeal Life which I'm sure helps.
 
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
 


  On Mon, Apr 30, 2018, 4:28 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
 wrote:
   What about those Blue Globe Impellers? They seem much better that the 
neoprene style of old, and seem to be a silicone blend, or something. They seem 
to hold up much better, and they also have a hardier Red Impeller, which I 
believe is intended for Diesel, and I think Higher Temps.
  
  Bill Coleman
 C&C 39 Erie
 
 
   From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck 
Gilchrest via CnC-List
 Sent: Monday, April 30, 2018 3:56 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Chuck Gilchrest
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM
 


 Fred, 
  Mine was Jabsco as well.  My engine tech said he's concerned that a Jabsco 
rubber impeller wouldn't be up to the task of the heat in a circulation pump.  
Any thoughts there?  I suspect it would need to be checked often just like the 
raw pump impeller.  Maybe I just need to inspect the Sendure exchanger for any 
blockages, change impeller and get the boat in the water.
 
Chuck Gilchrest 
 
Half Magic
 
83 35 LF
 
Padanaram MA
  Sent from my iPhone
 

 On Apr 30, 2018, at 3:04 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
  Chuck - my 1979 Landfall 38 (Middletown-built) appears to have come with a 
factory-installed Sen-Dure heat-exchanger and added circulation pump (a Jabsco, 
which I have since replaced with another Jabsco, rather than try to rebuild).  
I also have the challenges of no access (V-drive).
  
 
- Fred
   
 Fred Street -- Minneapolis
 S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
 


 
  On Apr 30, 2018, at 1:39 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

   Silly me.  Since I bought my 1983 Landfall 35 a bit over 2 years ago, I had 
been under the assumption since there was an “expansion tank” on the engine 
that had coolant in it, that it was a fresh water cooled engine from the 
factory.  It is a Yanmar 3HM 30.   No (F) on the engine tag.  I had never even 
bothered to look..  Yeah, the heat exchanger looked a bit different from the 
one in the Yanmar manual, but since I'd been having a marina commission and 
decommission my engine each year, changing water pump impellers as necessary 
(“go ahead and do it”), I thought all was OK.  I even had a raw water pump 
changed out when the old one was demolished due to the “cam” screw backing out 
and galling the inside of the pump.  Turns out there's more going on.
 
 
 
Low and behold, this year, when the mechanic looked around the engine, he 
mentioned that it was the first time he'd ever seen a small diesel with not one 
but two raw water pumps.  As it turns out, the engine appears to have had a 
fresh water conversion which was made by Sen-Dure, (thus the Sen-Dure expansion 
tank/heat exchanger) and a second external pump running off a belt.  So one of 
the two coolant pumps is actually a circulation pump (the one down low on the 
engine) and the other is a raw water pump..the one we replaced last year.
 
 
 
Has anyone ever heard of C&C converting engines from Raw to Fresh at the 
factory (Barry Carroll, Middletown RI built boat), or is it more likely an 
owner conversion?  My mechanic says that the rubber impeller on a raw water 
pump will never hold up to the heat of the interior engine coolant and will 
always burn up  impellers prematurely if I keep things as they are.  At one 
point Yanmar made a fresh water conversion kit for 3HM engines, but very 
unlikely there would be any availability considering the motor hasn't been 
built since 1983.
 
This engine is somewhat dastardly in that it is installed backwards with a 
V-Drive, making access to the “fr

Stus-List Parallel Batteries -- Double the Ah, but Double the CCA too???

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Listers,

If you put two 12V batteries in parallel, I know you double the amp-hours. But 
does that also double the CCA? 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List 2018 C&C Northeast Rendezvous -- Possible Change in Venue

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Listers,

After months and months of repeated requests for information, Danford’s Hotel 
and Marina in Port Jefferson has been mostly non-responsive, especially from 
their waterfront management. It’s like they don’t want the income. 

As a general rule of mine, I try not to steer business to companies that don’t 
seem to want it. So, with that, I am now considering a new mid-Sound location 
for the 2018 Rendezvous: Milford, CT

See: 
http://www.atlanticcruisingclub.com/Content/MarinaImages/19-1008-79.jpg
https://img.marinas.com/v2/9ea6a2f3bf96e8435172d5f7eaa45984f8a42bcf165233d7e218d43a3d346303.jpg
 

Dates: Friday, September 7 to Sunday, September 9, 2018

Features: Floating slips (VERY protected) with power and water; shower 
facilities; Wilcox Park (with tennis and basketball courts; baseball diamonds); 
picnic area; nearby restaurants (for our Saturday night group dinner); 
one-block walk into town; and more! 

More details coming after Memorial Day as I try to get things locked down. 
Maybe Danford’s will wise up before then. Who knows? 

As always, comments or suggestions welcome. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 










___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I have a Globe Impeller in my boat and have started using them at work
too.  They definitely seem to live up to their claims.  At work we would
routinely destroy even brand new rubber impellers since they would sit for
months and be allowed to dry out.  Similarly I have gone 4 years between
changes on my boat's impeller.  I didn't have to replace it when I did but
rather chose to and then later discovered some cracks on the vanes.

I also run a SpeedSeal Life which I'm sure helps.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Mon, Apr 30, 2018, 4:28 PM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> What about those Blue Globe Impellers? They seem much better that the
> neoprene style of old, and seem to be a silicone blend, or something. They
> seem to hold up much better, and they also have a hardier Red Impeller,
> which I believe is intended for Diesel, and I think Higher Temps.
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C&C 39 Erie
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Chuck
> Gilchrest via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, April 30, 2018 3:56 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Chuck Gilchrest
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM
>
>
>
> Fred,
>
> Mine was Jabsco as well.  My engine tech said he’s concerned that a Jabsco
> rubber impeller wouldn’t be up to the task of the heat in a circulation
> pump.  Any thoughts there?  I suspect it would need to be checked often
> just like the raw pump impeller.  Maybe I just need to inspect the Sendure
> exchanger for any blockages, change impeller and get the boat in the water.
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
>
> Half Magic
>
> 83 35 LF
>
> Padanaram MA
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
> On Apr 30, 2018, at 3:04 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Chuck — my 1979 Landfall 38 (Middletown-built) appears to have come with a
> factory-installed Sen-Dure heat-exchanger and added circulation pump (a
> Jabsco, which I have since replaced with another Jabsco, rather than try to
> rebuild).  I also have the challenges of no access (V-drive).
>
>
>
> — Fred
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V *Oceanis* (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
>
>
> On Apr 30, 2018, at 1:39 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Silly me.  Since I bought my 1983 Landfall 35 a bit over 2 years ago, I
> had been under the assumption since there was an “expansion tank” on the
> engine that had coolant in it, that it was a fresh water cooled engine from
> the factory.  It is a Yanmar 3HM 30.   No (F) on the engine tag.  I had
> never even bothered to look..  Yeah, the heat exchanger looked a bit
> different from the one in the Yanmar manual, but since I’d been having a
> marina commission and decommission my engine each year, changing water pump
> impellers as necessary (“go ahead and do it”), I thought all was OK.  I
> even had a raw water pump changed out when the old one was demolished due
> to the “cam” screw backing out and galling the inside of the pump.  Turns
> out there’s more going on.
>
>
>
> Low and behold, this year, when the mechanic looked around the engine, he
> mentioned that it was the first time he’d ever seen a small diesel with not
> one but two raw water pumps.  As it turns out, the engine appears to have
> had a fresh water conversion which was made by Sen-Dure, (thus the Sen-Dure
> expansion tank/heat exchanger) and a second external pump running off a
> belt.  So one of the two coolant pumps is actually a circulation pump (the
> one down low on the engine) and the other is a raw water pump..the one we
> replaced last year.
>
>
>
> Has anyone ever heard of C&C converting engines from Raw to Fresh at the
> factory (Barry Carroll, Middletown RI built boat), or is it more likely an
> owner conversion?  My mechanic says that the rubber impeller on a raw water
> pump will never hold up to the heat of the interior engine coolant and will
> always burn up  impellers prematurely if I keep things as they are.  At one
> point Yanmar made a fresh water conversion kit for 3HM engines, but very
> unlikely there would be any availability considering the motor hasn’t been
> built since 1983.
>
> This engine is somewhat dastardly in that it is installed backwards with a
> V-Drive, making access to the “front” of the motor a really tough job.
>
> Right now, I’m at a crossroads which involves:
>
>1. Finding a suitable circulation pump that is up to the job for the
>existing system, since I just de-scaled the heat exhchanger and bought a
>new stainless mixing elbow
>2. Finding the needed parts to do a Yanmar factory Fresh water
>conversion
>3. Keep the boat out of the water this year and save up to re-power.
>Lavishing multiple thousands at a 36 year old diesel may not be the best
>way to spend money.
>
> Any suggestions would be welcome..
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
>
> S/V Half Magic
>
> 1983 Landfall 35
>
> Pada

Re: Stus-List Battery CCA Rating for a "Cold" Diesel Engine

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Edd, I would go with nothing less than 750 cca, space permitting.  The more the 
better. The bigger  battery will last longer. I am using a group 27 to start my 
Yanmar 4jhe44. I took out a 20 year old group 31 that was still working. 


Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA.


 Original message From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 Date: 4/30/18  13:23  (GMT-08:00) To: Edd Schillay via 
CnC-List  Cc: Edd Schillay  Subject: 
Stus-List Battery CCA Rating for a "Cold" Diesel Engine 
Listers,
What would you recommend to be a good CCA rating for a starting battery to warm 
up glow plugs and start a “cold” 35HP diesel engine? 


All the best,
Edd

Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseC&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-BCity Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log









___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM

[David via CnC-List]

Chuck,


My 3QM 30 is a Sendur cooled set-up like yours and I never had a issue with 
conventional  impellers in the circulation pump...


David F. Risch

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650



From: CnC-List  on behalf of Chuck Gilchrest via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2018 3:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM

Fred,
Mine was Jabsco as well.  My engine tech said he’s concerned that a Jabsco 
rubber impeller wouldn’t be up to the task of the heat in a circulation pump.  
Any thoughts there?  I suspect it would need to be checked often just like the 
raw pump impeller.  Maybe I just need to inspect the Sendure exchanger for any 
blockages, change impeller and get the boat in the water.
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
83 35 LF
Padanaram MA

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 30, 2018, at 3:04 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Chuck — my 1979 Landfall 38 (Middletown-built) appears to have come with a 
factory-installed Sen-Dure heat-exchanger and added circulation pump (a Jabsco, 
which I have since replaced with another Jabsco, rather than try to rebuild).  
I also have the challenges of no access (V-drive).

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Apr 30, 2018, at 1:39 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Silly me.  Since I bought my 1983 Landfall 35 a bit over 2 years ago, I had 
been under the assumption since there was an “expansion tank” on the engine 
that had coolant in it, that it was a fresh water cooled engine from the 
factory.  It is a Yanmar 3HM 30.   No (F) on the engine tag.  I had never even 
bothered to look..  Yeah, the heat exchanger looked a bit different from the 
one in the Yanmar manual, but since I’d been having a marina commission and 
decommission my engine each year, changing water pump impellers as necessary 
(“go ahead and do it”), I thought all was OK.  I even had a raw water pump 
changed out when the old one was demolished due to the “cam” screw backing out 
and galling the inside of the pump.  Turns out there’s more going on.

Low and behold, this year, when the mechanic looked around the engine, he 
mentioned that it was the first time he’d ever seen a small diesel with not one 
but two raw water pumps.  As it turns out, the engine appears to have had a 
fresh water conversion which was made by Sen-Dure, (thus the Sen-Dure expansion 
tank/heat exchanger) and a second external pump running off a belt.  So one of 
the two coolant pumps is actually a circulation pump (the one down low on the 
engine) and the other is a raw water pump..the one we replaced last year.

Has anyone ever heard of C&C converting engines from Raw to Fresh at the 
factory (Barry Carroll, Middletown RI built boat), or is it more likely an 
owner conversion?  My mechanic says that the rubber impeller on a raw water 
pump will never hold up to the heat of the interior engine coolant and will 
always burn up  impellers prematurely if I keep things as they are.  At one 
point Yanmar made a fresh water conversion kit for 3HM engines, but very 
unlikely there would be any availability considering the motor hasn’t been 
built since 1983.
This engine is somewhat dastardly in that it is installed backwards with a 
V-Drive, making access to the “front” of the motor a really tough job.
Right now, I’m at a crossroads which involves:

  1.  Finding a suitable circulation pump that is up to the job for the 
existing system, since I just de-scaled the heat exhchanger and bought a new 
stainless mixing elbow
  2.  Finding the needed parts to do a Yanmar factory Fresh water conversion
  3.  Keep the boat out of the water this year and save up to re-power. 
Lavishing multiple thousands at a 36 year old diesel may not be the best way to 
spend money.

Any suggestions would be welcome..
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 Landfall 35
Padanaram, MA


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

What about those Blue Globe Impellers? They seem much better that the neoprene 
style of old, and seem to be a silicone blend, or something. They seem to hold 
up much better, and they also have a hardier Red Impeller, which I believe is 
intended for Diesel, and I think Higher Temps.

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck 
Gilchrest via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2018 3:56 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM

 

Fred, 

Mine was Jabsco as well.  My engine tech said he’s concerned that a Jabsco 
rubber impeller wouldn’t be up to the task of the heat in a circulation pump.  
Any thoughts there?  I suspect it would need to be checked often just like the 
raw pump impeller.  Maybe I just need to inspect the Sendure exchanger for any 
blockages, change impeller and get the boat in the water.

Chuck Gilchrest 

Half Magic

83 35 LF

Padanaram MA

Sent from my iPhone


On Apr 30, 2018, at 3:04 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Chuck — my 1979 Landfall 38 (Middletown-built) appears to have come with a 
factory-installed Sen-Dure heat-exchanger and added circulation pump (a Jabsco, 
which I have since replaced with another Jabsco, rather than try to rebuild).  
I also have the challenges of no access (V-drive).

 

— Fred


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(





On Apr 30, 2018, at 1:39 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 

Silly me.  Since I bought my 1983 Landfall 35 a bit over 2 years ago, I had 
been under the assumption since there was an “expansion tank” on the engine 
that had coolant in it, that it was a fresh water cooled engine from the 
factory.  It is a Yanmar 3HM 30.   No (F) on the engine tag.  I had never even 
bothered to look..  Yeah, the heat exchanger looked a bit different from the 
one in the Yanmar manual, but since I’d been having a marina commission and 
decommission my engine each year, changing water pump impellers as necessary 
(“go ahead and do it”), I thought all was OK.  I even had a raw water pump 
changed out when the old one was demolished due to the “cam” screw backing out 
and galling the inside of the pump.  Turns out there’s more going on.

 

Low and behold, this year, when the mechanic looked around the engine, he 
mentioned that it was the first time he’d ever seen a small diesel with not one 
but two raw water pumps.  As it turns out, the engine appears to have had a 
fresh water conversion which was made by Sen-Dure, (thus the Sen-Dure expansion 
tank/heat exchanger) and a second external pump running off a belt.  So one of 
the two coolant pumps is actually a circulation pump (the one down low on the 
engine) and the other is a raw water pump..the one we replaced last year.

 

Has anyone ever heard of C&C converting engines from Raw to Fresh at the 
factory (Barry Carroll, Middletown RI built boat), or is it more likely an 
owner conversion?  My mechanic says that the rubber impeller on a raw water 
pump will never hold up to the heat of the interior engine coolant and will 
always burn up  impellers prematurely if I keep things as they are.  At one 
point Yanmar made a fresh water conversion kit for 3HM engines, but very 
unlikely there would be any availability considering the motor hasn’t been 
built since 1983.

This engine is somewhat dastardly in that it is installed backwards with a 
V-Drive, making access to the “front” of the motor a really tough job.

Right now, I’m at a crossroads which involves:

a.  Finding a suitable circulation pump that is up to the job for the 
existing system, since I just de-scaled the heat exhchanger and bought a new 
stainless mixing elbow
b.  Finding the needed parts to do a Yanmar factory Fresh water conversion
c.  Keep the boat out of the water this year and save up to re-power. 
Lavishing multiple thousands at a 36 year old diesel may not be the best way to 
spend money.

Any suggestions would be welcome..

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 Landfall 35

Padanaram, MA

 

 

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Stus-List Battery CCA Rating for a "Cold" Diesel Engine

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Listers,

What would you recommend to be a good CCA rating for a starting battery to warm 
up glow plugs and start a “cold” 35HP diesel engine? 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 








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Re: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM

[billbruce--- via CnC-List]

 
  
   I have a converted 3qm30 with and an aftermarket heat exchanger and an aftermarket  Jabsco 1673-1001 seawater pump. The old sweater impeller, which is now dedicated for fresh water cooling, is not affected by the hot water and holds up well. I have only replaced the impeller once in several years. 
   
   Bill Bruce
   Landfall 38 
  
 


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Re: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Fred, 
Mine was Jabsco as well.  My engine tech said he’s concerned that a Jabsco 
rubber impeller wouldn’t be up to the task of the heat in a circulation pump.  
Any thoughts there?  I suspect it would need to be checked often just like the 
raw pump impeller.  Maybe I just need to inspect the Sendure exchanger for any 
blockages, change impeller and get the boat in the water.
Chuck Gilchrest 
Half Magic
83 35 LF
Padanaram MA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 30, 2018, at 3:04 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Chuck — my 1979 Landfall 38 (Middletown-built) appears to have come with a 
> factory-installed Sen-Dure heat-exchanger and added circulation pump (a 
> Jabsco, which I have since replaced with another Jabsco, rather than try to 
> rebuild).  I also have the challenges of no access (V-drive).
> 
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
>> On Apr 30, 2018, at 1:39 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Silly me.  Since I bought my 1983 Landfall 35 a bit over 2 years ago, I had 
>> been under the assumption since there was an “expansion tank” on the engine 
>> that had coolant in it, that it was a fresh water cooled engine from the 
>> factory.  It is a Yanmar 3HM 30.   No (F) on the engine tag.  I had never 
>> even bothered to look..  Yeah, the heat exchanger looked a bit different 
>> from the one in the Yanmar manual, but since I’d been having a marina 
>> commission and decommission my engine each year, changing water pump 
>> impellers as necessary (“go ahead and do it”), I thought all was OK.  I even 
>> had a raw water pump changed out when the old one was demolished due to the 
>> “cam” screw backing out and galling the inside of the pump.  Turns out 
>> there’s more going on.
>>  
>> Low and behold, this year, when the mechanic looked around the engine, he 
>> mentioned that it was the first time he’d ever seen a small diesel with not 
>> one but two raw water pumps.  As it turns out, the engine appears to have 
>> had a fresh water conversion which was made by Sen-Dure, (thus the Sen-Dure 
>> expansion tank/heat exchanger) and a second external pump running off a 
>> belt.  So one of the two coolant pumps is actually a circulation pump (the 
>> one down low on the engine) and the other is a raw water pump..the one we 
>> replaced last year.
>>  
>> Has anyone ever heard of C&C converting engines from Raw to Fresh at the 
>> factory (Barry Carroll, Middletown RI built boat), or is it more likely an 
>> owner conversion?  My mechanic says that the rubber impeller on a raw water 
>> pump will never hold up to the heat of the interior engine coolant and will 
>> always burn up  impellers prematurely if I keep things as they are.  At one 
>> point Yanmar made a fresh water conversion kit for 3HM engines, but very 
>> unlikely there would be any availability considering the motor hasn’t been 
>> built since 1983.
>> This engine is somewhat dastardly in that it is installed backwards with a 
>> V-Drive, making access to the “front” of the motor a really tough job.
>> Right now, I’m at a crossroads which involves:
>> Finding a suitable circulation pump that is up to the job for the existing 
>> system, since I just de-scaled the heat exhchanger and bought a new 
>> stainless mixing elbow
>> Finding the needed parts to do a Yanmar factory Fresh water conversion
>> Keep the boat out of the water this year and save up to re-power. Lavishing 
>> multiple thousands at a 36 year old diesel may not be the best way to spend 
>> money.
>> Any suggestions would be welcome..
>> Chuck Gilchrest
>> S/V Half Magic
>> 1983 Landfall 35
>> Padanaram, MA
>>  
>>  
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

I’m currently working on the boat hobby and can address this when I get back 
later this afternoon. 3HM to 3HMF conversion

Best,
Dave

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 30, 2018, at 15:26, svrebeccaleah via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
>  Pegasus my old 38LF had been converted to fresh water cooling. Dont remember 
> who made the heat exchanger. It used the cam driven vane pump (old raw water 
> pump) as the recirculating pump. Replaced the impeller once in 10 years of 
> ownership. Yes access did suck. Never had an issue of that pump failing. Only 
> overheating issues I had was when the heat exchanger tubes became clogged. 
> My 39LF has the engine installed the right way (no vdrive) and good access to 
> everything except the dripless shaft packing. 
> 
> 
> 
> Doug Mountjoy 
> Rebecca Leah 
> LF39 
> Port Orchard YC, WA.
> 
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
> Date: 4/30/18 11:39 (GMT-08:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
> Subject: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM
> 
> Silly me.  Since I bought my 1983 Landfall 35 a bit over 2 years ago, I had 
> been under the assumption since there was an “expansion tank” on the engine 
> that had coolant in it, that it was a fresh water cooled engine from the 
> factory.  It is a Yanmar 3HM 30.   No (F) on the engine tag.  I had never 
> even bothered to look..  Yeah, the heat exchanger looked a bit different from 
> the one in the Yanmar manual, but since I’d been having a marina commission 
> and decommission my engine each year, changing water pump impellers as 
> necessary (“go ahead and do it”), I thought all was OK.  I even had a raw 
> water pump changed out when the old one was demolished due to the “cam” screw 
> backing out and galling the inside of the pump.  Turns out there’s more going 
> on.
> 
>  
> 
> Low and behold, this year, when the mechanic looked around the engine, he 
> mentioned that it was the first time he’d ever seen a small diesel with not 
> one but two raw water pumps.  As it turns out, the engine appears to have had 
> a fresh water conversion which was made by Sen-Dure, (thus the Sen-Dure 
> expansion tank/heat exchanger) and a second external pump running off a belt. 
>  So one of the two coolant pumps is actually a circulation pump (the one down 
> low on the engine) and the other is a raw water pump..the one we replaced 
> last year.
> 
>  
> 
> Has anyone ever heard of C&C converting engines from Raw to Fresh at the 
> factory (Barry Carroll, Middletown RI built boat), or is it more likely an 
> owner conversion?  My mechanic says that the rubber impeller on a raw water 
> pump will never hold up to the heat of the interior engine coolant and will 
> always burn up  impellers prematurely if I keep things as they are.  At one 
> point Yanmar made a fresh water conversion kit for 3HM engines, but very 
> unlikely there would be any availability considering the motor hasn’t been 
> built since 1983.
> 
> This engine is somewhat dastardly in that it is installed backwards with a 
> V-Drive, making access to the “front” of the motor a really tough job.
> 
> Right now, I’m at a crossroads which involves:
> 
> Finding a suitable circulation pump that is up to the job for the existing 
> system, since I just de-scaled the heat exhchanger and bought a new stainless 
> mixing elbow
> Finding the needed parts to do a Yanmar factory Fresh water conversion
> Keep the boat out of the water this year and save up to re-power. Lavishing 
> multiple thousands at a 36 year old diesel may not be the best way to spend 
> money.
> Any suggestions would be welcome..
> 
> Chuck Gilchrest
> 
> S/V Half Magic
> 
> 1983 Landfall 35
> 
> Padanaram, MA
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

The block for the 3HM35 and the 3HM35F are exactly the same.  Why no try to
use the appropriate water pump for the 3HM35F?  There is probably a blanked
off plate on the front of the engine where the pump should go.  Going this
route also allows you to use the normal belts.

See page 17/18
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yNHdjQTRoMVFZMEk/view?usp=drivesdk

Here's a picture of the front of a 3HM35F
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yUGs2NjhBMEhfQUU/view?usp=drivesdk

Here's the whole folder of Yanmar stuff.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yTkdrWTZVX3hRM28

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Mon, Apr 30, 2018, 2:39 PM Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Silly me.  Since I bought my 1983 Landfall 35 a bit over 2 years ago, I
> had been under the assumption since there was an “expansion tank” on the
> engine that had coolant in it, that it was a fresh water cooled engine from
> the factory.  It is a Yanmar 3HM 30.   No (F) on the engine tag.  I had
> never even bothered to look..  Yeah, the heat exchanger looked a bit
> different from the one in the Yanmar manual, but since I’d been having a
> marina commission and decommission my engine each year, changing water pump
> impellers as necessary (“go ahead and do it”), I thought all was OK.  I
> even had a raw water pump changed out when the old one was demolished due
> to the “cam” screw backing out and galling the inside of the pump.  Turns
> out there’s more going on.
>
>
>
> Low and behold, this year, when the mechanic looked around the engine, he
> mentioned that it was the first time he’d ever seen a small diesel with not
> one but two raw water pumps.  As it turns out, the engine appears to have
> had a fresh water conversion which was made by Sen-Dure, (thus the Sen-Dure
> expansion tank/heat exchanger) and a second external pump running off a
> belt.  So one of the two coolant pumps is actually a circulation pump (the
> one down low on the engine) and the other is a raw water pump..the one we
> replaced last year.
>
>
>
> Has anyone ever heard of C&C converting engines from Raw to Fresh at the
> factory (Barry Carroll, Middletown RI built boat), or is it more likely an
> owner conversion?  My mechanic says that the rubber impeller on a raw water
> pump will never hold up to the heat of the interior engine coolant and will
> always burn up  impellers prematurely if I keep things as they are.  At one
> point Yanmar made a fresh water conversion kit for 3HM engines, but very
> unlikely there would be any availability considering the motor hasn’t been
> built since 1983.
>
> This engine is somewhat dastardly in that it is installed backwards with a
> V-Drive, making access to the “front” of the motor a really tough job.
>
> Right now, I’m at a crossroads which involves:
>
>1. Finding a suitable circulation pump that is up to the job for the
>existing system, since I just de-scaled the heat exhchanger and bought a
>new stainless mixing elbow
>2. Finding the needed parts to do a Yanmar factory Fresh water
>conversion
>3. Keep the boat out of the water this year and save up to re-power.
>Lavishing multiple thousands at a 36 year old diesel may not be the best
>way to spend money.
>
> Any suggestions would be welcome..
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
>
> S/V Half Magic
>
> 1983 Landfall 35
>
> Padanaram, MA
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

 Pegasus my old 38LF had been converted to fresh water cooling. Dont remember 
who made the heat exchanger. It used the cam driven vane pump (old raw water 
pump) as the recirculating pump. Replaced the impeller once in 10 years of 
ownership. Yes access did suck. Never had an issue of that pump failing. Only 
overheating issues I had was when the heat exchanger tubes became clogged. My 
39LF has the engine installed the right way (no vdrive) and good access to 
everything except the dripless shaft packing. 


Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA.


 Original message From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 Date: 4/30/18  11:39  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chuck Gilchrest  Subject: 
Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM 
Silly me.  Since I bought my 1983 Landfall 35 a bit over 2 years ago, I had 
been under the assumption since there was an “expansion tank” on the engine 
that had coolant in it, that it was a fresh water cooled engine from the 
factory.  It is a Yanmar 3HM 30.   No (F) on the engine tag.  I had never even 
bothered to look..  Yeah, the heat exchanger looked a bit different from the 
one in the Yanmar manual, but since I’d been having a marina commission and 
decommission my engine each year, changing water pump impellers as necessary 
(“go ahead and do it”), I thought all was OK.  I even had a raw water pump 
changed out when the old one was demolished due to the “cam” screw backing out 
and galling the inside of the pump.  Turns out there’s more going on. Low and 
behold, this year, when the mechanic looked around the engine, he mentioned 
that it was the first time he’d ever seen a small diesel with not one but two 
raw water pumps.  As it turns out, the engine appears to have had a fresh water 
conversion which was made by Sen-Dure, (thus the Sen-Dure expansion tank/heat 
exchanger) and a second external pump running off a belt.  So one of the two 
coolant pumps is actually a circulation pump (the one down low on the engine) 
and the other is a raw water pump..the one we replaced last year. Has anyone 
ever heard of C&C converting engines from Raw to Fresh at the factory (Barry 
Carroll, Middletown RI built boat), or is it more likely an owner conversion?  
My mechanic says that the rubber impeller on a raw water pump will never hold 
up to the heat of the interior engine coolant and will always burn up  
impellers prematurely if I keep things as they are.  At one point Yanmar made a 
fresh water conversion kit for 3HM engines, but very unlikely there would be 
any availability considering the motor hasn’t been built since 1983.This engine 
is somewhat dastardly in that it is installed backwards with a V-Drive, making 
access to the “front” of the motor a really tough job.Right now, I’m at a 
crossroads which involves:Finding a suitable circulation pump that is up to the 
job for the existing system, since I just de-scaled the heat exhchanger and 
bought a new stainless mixing elbowFinding the needed parts to do a Yanmar 
factory Fresh water conversionKeep the boat out of the water this year and save 
up to re-power. Lavishing multiple thousands at a 36 year old diesel may not be 
the best way to spend money.Any suggestions would be welcome..Chuck 
GilchrestS/V Half Magic1983 Landfall 35Padanaram, MA  ___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

Curiouser and curiouser, Alice.

Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 30, 2018, at 3:03 PM, John Conklin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Following along !! I have the same 3HM in my  new to me 1982 37 Having some  
Issues with overheating right now. There is an anti freeze tank and some kind 
of what looksOverflow tank was empty, and   looks like some type of  added on 
pump,  as it partially covers the plate 3HM plate in the front. YES “bass 
akwards”  engine and very hard to reach exhaust elbow as well  I will post some 
pics as well But not sure what to do either?


John Conklin


From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf 
of Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2018 2:39:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest
Subject: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM

Silly me.  Since I bought my 1983 Landfall 35 a bit over 2 years ago, I had 
been under the assumption since there was an “expansion tank” on the engine 
that had coolant in it, that it was a fresh water cooled engine from the 
factory.  It is a Yanmar 3HM 30.   No (F) on the engine tag.  I had never even 
bothered to look..  Yeah, the heat exchanger looked a bit different from the 
one in the Yanmar manual, but since I’d been having a marina commission and 
decommission my engine each year, changing water pump impellers as necessary 
(“go ahead and do it”), I thought all was OK.  I even had a raw water pump 
changed out when the old one was demolished due to the “cam” screw backing out 
and galling the inside of the pump.  Turns out there’s more going on.

Low and behold, this year, when the mechanic looked around the engine, he 
mentioned that it was the first time he’d ever seen a small diesel with not one 
but two raw water pumps.  As it turns out, the engine appears to have had a 
fresh water conversion which was made by Sen-Dure, (thus the Sen-Dure expansion 
tank/heat exchanger) and a second external pump running off a belt.  So one of 
the two coolant pumps is actually a circulation pump (the one down low on the 
engine) and the other is a raw water pump..the one we replaced last year.

Has anyone ever heard of C&C converting engines from Raw to Fresh at the 
factory (Barry Carroll, Middletown RI built boat), or is it more likely an 
owner conversion?  My mechanic says that the rubber impeller on a raw water 
pump will never hold up to the heat of the interior engine coolant and will 
always burn up  impellers prematurely if I keep things as they are.  At one 
point Yanmar made a fresh water conversion kit for 3HM engines, but very 
unlikely there would be any availability considering the motor hasn’t been 
built since 1983.
This engine is somewhat dastardly in that it is installed backwards with a 
V-Drive, making access to the “front” of the motor a really tough job.
Right now, I’m at a crossroads which involves:

  1.  Finding a suitable circulation pump that is up to the job for the 
existing system, since I just de-scaled the heat exhchanger and bought a new 
stainless mixing elbow
  2.  Finding the needed parts to do a Yanmar factory Fresh water conversion
  3.  Keep the boat out of the water this year and save up to re-power. 
Lavishing multiple thousands at a 36 year old diesel may not be the best way to 
spend money.
Any suggestions would be welcome..
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 Landfall 35
Padanaram, MA


___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Chuck — my 1979 Landfall 38 (Middletown-built) appears to have come with a 
factory-installed Sen-Dure heat-exchanger and added circulation pump (a Jabsco, 
which I have since replaced with another Jabsco, rather than try to rebuild).  
I also have the challenges of no access (V-drive).

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Apr 30, 2018, at 1:39 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Silly me.  Since I bought my 1983 Landfall 35 a bit over 2 years ago, I had 
> been under the assumption since there was an “expansion tank” on the engine 
> that had coolant in it, that it was a fresh water cooled engine from the 
> factory.  It is a Yanmar 3HM 30.   No (F) on the engine tag.  I had never 
> even bothered to look..  Yeah, the heat exchanger looked a bit different from 
> the one in the Yanmar manual, but since I’d been having a marina commission 
> and decommission my engine each year, changing water pump impellers as 
> necessary (“go ahead and do it”), I thought all was OK.  I even had a raw 
> water pump changed out when the old one was demolished due to the “cam” screw 
> backing out and galling the inside of the pump.  Turns out there’s more going 
> on.
>  
> Low and behold, this year, when the mechanic looked around the engine, he 
> mentioned that it was the first time he’d ever seen a small diesel with not 
> one but two raw water pumps.  As it turns out, the engine appears to have had 
> a fresh water conversion which was made by Sen-Dure, (thus the Sen-Dure 
> expansion tank/heat exchanger) and a second external pump running off a belt. 
>  So one of the two coolant pumps is actually a circulation pump (the one down 
> low on the engine) and the other is a raw water pump..the one we replaced 
> last year.
>  
> Has anyone ever heard of C&C converting engines from Raw to Fresh at the 
> factory (Barry Carroll, Middletown RI built boat), or is it more likely an 
> owner conversion?  My mechanic says that the rubber impeller on a raw water 
> pump will never hold up to the heat of the interior engine coolant and will 
> always burn up  impellers prematurely if I keep things as they are.  At one 
> point Yanmar made a fresh water conversion kit for 3HM engines, but very 
> unlikely there would be any availability considering the motor hasn’t been 
> built since 1983.
> This engine is somewhat dastardly in that it is installed backwards with a 
> V-Drive, making access to the “front” of the motor a really tough job.
> Right now, I’m at a crossroads which involves:
> Finding a suitable circulation pump that is up to the job for the existing 
> system, since I just de-scaled the heat exhchanger and bought a new stainless 
> mixing elbow
> Finding the needed parts to do a Yanmar factory Fresh water conversion
> Keep the boat out of the water this year and save up to re-power. Lavishing 
> multiple thousands at a 36 year old diesel may not be the best way to spend 
> money.
> Any suggestions would be welcome..
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> 1983 Landfall 35
> Padanaram, MA
>  
>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Following along !! I have the same 3HM in my  new to me 1982 37 Having some  
Issues with overheating right now. There is an anti freeze tank and some kind 
of what looksOverflow tank was empty, and   looks like some type of  added on 
pump,  as it partially covers the plate 3HM plate in the front. YES “bass 
akwards”  engine and very hard to reach exhaust elbow as well  I will post some 
pics as well But not sure what to do either?


John Conklin


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Chuck Gilchrest via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2018 2:39:03 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest
Subject: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM

Silly me.  Since I bought my 1983 Landfall 35 a bit over 2 years ago, I had 
been under the assumption since there was an “expansion tank” on the engine 
that had coolant in it, that it was a fresh water cooled engine from the 
factory.  It is a Yanmar 3HM 30.   No (F) on the engine tag.  I had never even 
bothered to look..  Yeah, the heat exchanger looked a bit different from the 
one in the Yanmar manual, but since I’d been having a marina commission and 
decommission my engine each year, changing water pump impellers as necessary 
(“go ahead and do it”), I thought all was OK.  I even had a raw water pump 
changed out when the old one was demolished due to the “cam” screw backing out 
and galling the inside of the pump.  Turns out there’s more going on.

Low and behold, this year, when the mechanic looked around the engine, he 
mentioned that it was the first time he’d ever seen a small diesel with not one 
but two raw water pumps.  As it turns out, the engine appears to have had a 
fresh water conversion which was made by Sen-Dure, (thus the Sen-Dure expansion 
tank/heat exchanger) and a second external pump running off a belt.  So one of 
the two coolant pumps is actually a circulation pump (the one down low on the 
engine) and the other is a raw water pump..the one we replaced last year.

Has anyone ever heard of C&C converting engines from Raw to Fresh at the 
factory (Barry Carroll, Middletown RI built boat), or is it more likely an 
owner conversion?  My mechanic says that the rubber impeller on a raw water 
pump will never hold up to the heat of the interior engine coolant and will 
always burn up  impellers prematurely if I keep things as they are.  At one 
point Yanmar made a fresh water conversion kit for 3HM engines, but very 
unlikely there would be any availability considering the motor hasn’t been 
built since 1983.
This engine is somewhat dastardly in that it is installed backwards with a 
V-Drive, making access to the “front” of the motor a really tough job.
Right now, I’m at a crossroads which involves:

  1.  Finding a suitable circulation pump that is up to the job for the 
existing system, since I just de-scaled the heat exhchanger and bought a new 
stainless mixing elbow
  2.  Finding the needed parts to do a Yanmar factory Fresh water conversion
  3.  Keep the boat out of the water this year and save up to re-power. 
Lavishing multiple thousands at a 36 year old diesel may not be the best way to 
spend money.
Any suggestions would be welcome..
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 Landfall 35
Padanaram, MA


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Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Silly me.  Since I bought my 1983 Landfall 35 a bit over 2 years ago, I had
been under the assumption since there was an "expansion tank" on the engine
that had coolant in it, that it was a fresh water cooled engine from the
factory.  It is a Yanmar 3HM 30.   No (F) on the engine tag.  I had never
even bothered to look..  Yeah, the heat exchanger looked a bit different
from the one in the Yanmar manual, but since I'd been having a marina
commission and decommission my engine each year, changing water pump
impellers as necessary ("go ahead and do it"), I thought all was OK.  I even
had a raw water pump changed out when the old one was demolished due to the
"cam" screw backing out and galling the inside of the pump.  Turns out
there's more going on.

 

Low and behold, this year, when the mechanic looked around the engine, he
mentioned that it was the first time he'd ever seen a small diesel with not
one but two raw water pumps.  As it turns out, the engine appears to have
had a fresh water conversion which was made by Sen-Dure, (thus the Sen-Dure
expansion tank/heat exchanger) and a second external pump running off a
belt.  So one of the two coolant pumps is actually a circulation pump (the
one down low on the engine) and the other is a raw water pump..the one we
replaced last year.

 

Has anyone ever heard of C&C converting engines from Raw to Fresh at the
factory (Barry Carroll, Middletown RI built boat), or is it more likely an
owner conversion?  My mechanic says that the rubber impeller on a raw water
pump will never hold up to the heat of the interior engine coolant and will
always burn up  impellers prematurely if I keep things as they are.  At one
point Yanmar made a fresh water conversion kit for 3HM engines, but very
unlikely there would be any availability considering the motor hasn't been
built since 1983.

This engine is somewhat dastardly in that it is installed backwards with a
V-Drive, making access to the "front" of the motor a really tough job.

Right now, I'm at a crossroads which involves:

a.  Finding a suitable circulation pump that is up to the job for the
existing system, since I just de-scaled the heat exhchanger and bought a new
stainless mixing elbow
b.  Finding the needed parts to do a Yanmar factory Fresh water
conversion
c.  Keep the boat out of the water this year and save up to re-power.
Lavishing multiple thousands at a 36 year old diesel may not be the best way
to spend money.

Any suggestions would be welcome..

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 Landfall 35

Padanaram, MA

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Racor Filters

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

They are not _that_ messy. You can drain them (through the bottom) before 
replacing the element. Any work on a diesel filter is somewhat messy. I liked 
the built-in manual fuel pump.

Marek

From: tom via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 30, 2018 09:19
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: tom
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raycor Filters

Thanks Josh,
I would see the condition of the 200Fg after the removal of the drain and 
fittings.
It may be better to replace the entire unit. I saw for sale @ $120.
Hoping to hear about using the newer spin on types as I have heard they are 
messy to change.
BTW...some handy mods on your video.
Tom


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Re: Stus-List Raycor Filters

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

You can get used 200FGs from time to time for about $25 to $50.  Bacon
sails in Annapolis has a bunch of used ones on their back shelf that they
probably don't even remember having.  Give them a call.

Josh



On Mon, Apr 30, 2018, 9:19 AM tom via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Thanks Josh,
> I would see the condition of the 200Fg after the removal of the drain and
> fittings.
> It may be better to replace the entire unit. I saw for sale @ $120.
> Hoping to hear about using the newer spin on types as I have heard they
> are messy to change.
> BTW...some handy mods on your video.
> Tom
>
> On Sun, Apr 29, 2018 at 10:27 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I'm a big fan of the 200FG.  I've completely rebuilt mine with all new
>> o-rings and I have plenty of the cost effective cartridges.  Despite being
>> discontinued the cartridges are still extremely available.  I modified mine
>> with a vacuum gauge and a vent/bleed valve.  As for your stuck drain valve,
>> mine is plastic and has never gotten stuck...though I don't use it very
>> often.  You might try McMaster-Carr for a replacement fitting.  Straight
>> thread not tapered.  I can help if you need.  I may have a metal drain
>> valve laying around too.  If you think you might want it, let me know.
>>
>> https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>> On Sun, Apr 29, 2018, 9:36 PM tom via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hello Everybody,
>>>
>>> I have an old Raycor 200FG that takes replacement cartridges from the
>>> top on my Yanmar 2 GMF.
>>>
>>> The bottom clean out valve is frozen and the hose fittings need
>>> attention.
>>>
>>> This model has been replaced with newer screw on from the bottom styles.
>>>
>>> Wondering what experiences owners have had comparing the old and new.
>>> Are these newer styles easier/better than the old drop in filter that I
>>> have or should I just repair the old?
>>>
>>> Thanks much,
>>>
>>> Tom Oryniak
>>>
>>> "Carry On"
>>>
>>> 33-1
>>>
>>> Raritan Bay, NJ
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Raycor Filters

[tom via CnC-List]

Thanks Josh,
I would see the condition of the 200Fg after the removal of the drain and
fittings.
It may be better to replace the entire unit. I saw for sale @ $120.
Hoping to hear about using the newer spin on types as I have heard they are
messy to change.
BTW...some handy mods on your video.
Tom

On Sun, Apr 29, 2018 at 10:27 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm a big fan of the 200FG.  I've completely rebuilt mine with all new
> o-rings and I have plenty of the cost effective cartridges.  Despite being
> discontinued the cartridges are still extremely available.  I modified mine
> with a vacuum gauge and a vent/bleed valve.  As for your stuck drain valve,
> mine is plastic and has never gotten stuck...though I don't use it very
> often.  You might try McMaster-Carr for a replacement fitting.  Straight
> thread not tapered.  I can help if you need.  I may have a metal drain
> valve laying around too.  If you think you might want it, let me know.
>
> https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Sun, Apr 29, 2018, 9:36 PM tom via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Hello Everybody,
>>
>> I have an old Raycor 200FG that takes replacement cartridges from the top
>> on my Yanmar 2 GMF.
>>
>> The bottom clean out valve is frozen and the hose fittings need attention.
>>
>> This model has been replaced with newer screw on from the bottom styles.
>>
>> Wondering what experiences owners have had comparing the old and new. Are
>> these newer styles easier/better than the old drop in filter that I have or
>> should I just repair the old?
>>
>> Thanks much,
>>
>> Tom Oryniak
>>
>> "Carry On"
>>
>> 33-1
>>
>> Raritan Bay, NJ
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray