Re: Stus-List Question about anchor light

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

The list might find this informative:

https://www.dco.uscg.mil/Portals/9/DCO%20Documents/5p/CG-5PC/INV/Alerts/1015.pdf

Dennis C.

On Tue, May 8, 2018 at 5:32 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Regarding “certified” lights:
>
>
>
> We’ve had this discussion several times on the list.
>
>
>
> If you are a manufacturer and building a boat for sale in the US, you must
> use lights that have been tested and certified to meet the specifications
> set by the USCG. That requirement is included in the CFRs (Consolidated
> Federal Regulations), I think in part 46 but I’m not certain and don’t have
> the time to look it up at the moment.
>
>
>
> If you are a boat owner, you are required by the COLREGS to use lights
> that meet or exceed the visibility standards of the COLREGS, which are
> basically color, angle of view, and distance at which they can be seen
> based on the size and operation of the boat.
>
>
>
> Nowhere in US law is there a requirement that you purchase “certified”
> lights, or lights from the original source used by the OEM.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
> *Francois
> Rivard via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, May 8, 2018 11:33 AM
> *To:* Chuck S 
> *Cc:* Francois Rivard ;
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Question about anchor light
>
>
>
> Hi Chuck,
>
>
>
> The MarineBeam and most of the units in that price range "meet or exceed"
> the certification guidelines but are not actually certified.  As I
> understood it the certification process was expensive and they pass the
> cost to you.
>
>
>
> Some folks said online that if your masthead unit is not certified you may
> run into insurance issues if you ever made a claim.  I'm not sure if that's
> actually substantiated.
>
>
>
> -Francois
>
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
>
> Lake Lanier, GA
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Question about anchor light

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Regarding “certified” lights:

 

We’ve had this discussion several times on the list. 

 

If you are a manufacturer and building a boat for sale in the US, you must use 
lights that have been tested and certified to meet the specifications set by 
the USCG. That requirement is included in the CFRs (Consolidated Federal 
Regulations), I think in part 46 but I’m not certain and don’t have the time to 
look it up at the moment.

 

If you are a boat owner, you are required by the COLREGS to use lights that 
meet or exceed the visibility standards of the COLREGS, which are basically 
color, angle of view, and distance at which they can be seen based on the size 
and operation of the boat.

 

Nowhere in US law is there a requirement that you purchase “certified” lights, 
or lights from the original source used by the OEM.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Francois 
Rivard via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 8, 2018 11:33 AM
To: Chuck S 
Cc: Francois Rivard ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Question about anchor light

 

Hi Chuck, 

 

The MarineBeam and most of the units in that price range "meet or exceed" the 
certification guidelines but are not actually certified.  As I understood it 
the certification process was expensive and they pass the cost to you.  

 

Some folks said online that if your masthead unit is not certified you may run 
into insurance issues if you ever made a claim.  I'm not sure if that's 
actually substantiated. 

 

-Francois

1990 34+ "Take Five"

Lake Lanier, GA

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Question about anchor light

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi Chuck,

I looked at those as well.  They did not have the Strobe at the time, to
get the strobe you had to go DIY.  It has nice features.  The main
difference in price is the certification and the machined aluminum case.
The MarineBeam and most of the units in that price range "meet or exceed"
the certification guidelines but are not actually certified.  As I
understood it the certification process was expensive and they pass the
cost to you.

Some folks said online that if your masthead unit is not certified you may
run into insurance issues if you ever made a claim.  I'm not sure if that's
actually substantiated. The machined aluminum case will definitely be more
impervious to the elements.  Since my mast stay up for extended periods I
figured that in the big scheme of things it's worth the extra 200 bucks.

One could make the argument that the plastic units cost 1/3 therefore they
only have to last 1/3 long to break even and you keep your money all
along.  That's a fair argument.  I went for the "less likely to have to
climb the mast" side of things.  I don't have the mast climbing equipment
and paying a guy to do it for me is about 80-100 bucks round trip as I
found out last year.

Tomatoes / Tomahtoes   :-)


-Francois
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA

On Mon, May 7, 2018 at 7:36 PM, Chuck S  wrote:

> Responding late to the discussion. My mast is out so I am replacing all
> the light fixtures and wiring and selected MarineBeam's Anchor
> Light/tri-color/Strobe Combo that works with two wires.
> https://store.marinebeam.com/smart-led-tri-color-anchor-
> light-and-strobe-n3-tri-cmb/
> I tested the light and it is very very bright and works just like they
> claim and the strobe flashes S-O-S. Lots of features for $109 and it seems
> very well made. We'll see how it holds up.
>
> Replaced the VHF antenna wire too.
>
> On May 7, 2018 at 1:34 PM Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks.
> Still thinking a white anchor light, but you reflect my experience, at the
> last minute I started thinking just change it out.
>
> Matt
>
> On May 7, 2018, at 1:28 PM, Francois Rivard 
> wrote:
>
> Hi Matt,
>
> When I took my mast down I took a good look at the brittle dried-up
> housing, crazed plastic lens, and iffy led conversion on the existing unit
> and threw it in the trash.  I replaced it with the SignalMate tricolor (
> https://signalmate.com/navigation-light-models/combination-tri-color-with-
> anchor-2-wire/)
>
> They claim it's made to mil specs... I believe it.  It's completely
> sealed, the machining and anodizing on the housing is beautiful, and the
> lens is nice and thick.
>
> It's pricey but to me, worth every penny as it is completely "install it
> and forget it".  Living in Georgia my mast does not come down very often so
> no maintenance is a big plus. As a bonus it's by far the brightest mast
> light on the lake, I consider it cheap insurance against drunken pontoon
> pilots.
>
> Good luck with the project.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List TV antenna

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Wow. That antenna looks nice. Does this replace my VHF antenna. Same coax cable?
Yes, please send me price .


> On May 8, 2018 at 11:02 AM Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Chuck — take a look at the new smaller Shakespeare HDTV marine antenna: 
> http://shakespeare-ce.com/marine/product/3004-seawatch-hdtv-antenna/
> 
> Definitely smaller than the old “UFO” style TV antennas; it’s amplified, 
> and needs 12VDC to operate.  But with the 30dB gain and getting it up high, 
> you’d have very good reception.  Let me know if you’d like me to price one 
> for you.
> 
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> 
> 
> 
> 
> > > On May 7, 2018, at 7:40 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > Hey guys,
> > 
> > 
> > I am rewiring the mast and lighting and VHF antenna and wonder if I 
> > should pull in a TV antenna cable?  Does anyone have one that works well?  
> > I get 35 channels with a leaf antenna I lay on the deck, but it sometimes 
> > pixelates just when the comedian says the punchline.  Can be frustrating.
> > 
> > 
> > Chuck
> > Resolute
> > 1990 C&C 34R
> > Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> > 
> > > 
> 
 

> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
 
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Re: Stus-List TV antenna

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Chuck — take a look at the new smaller Shakespeare HDTV marine antenna: 
http://shakespeare-ce.com/marine/product/3004-seawatch-hdtv-antenna/ 


Definitely smaller than the old “UFO” style TV antennas; it’s amplified, and 
needs 12VDC to operate.  But with the 30dB gain and getting it up high, you’d 
have very good reception.  Let me know if you’d like me to price one for you.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(



> On May 7, 2018, at 7:40 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> 
> 
> I am rewiring the mast and lighting and VHF antenna and wonder if I should 
> pull in a TV antenna cable?  Does anyone have one that works well?  I get 35 
> channels with a leaf antenna I lay on the deck, but it sometimes pixelates 
> just when the comedian says the punchline.  Can be frustrating.
> 
> 
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

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Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MK II Bilge pumps

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Now that is what they should have done from the beginning!
An Aluminum housing for a pump like that has no place on a boat - 
It is not if it corrodes, but when . . . 

Bill Coleman
C&C 39 Erie, PA


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Neil 
Gallagher via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2018 8:49 PM
To: Eric Frank via CnC-List
Cc: Neil Gallagher
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 33 MK II Bilge pumps

https://www.whalepumps.com/marine/product.aspx?Category_ID=10009&Product_ID=10005&FriendlyID=Mk-5-Universal

My solution to the corroded Whale pump.  Been working well for about 4 
years now.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 5/7/2018 2:06 PM, Eric Frank via CnC-List wrote:
> Corrosion is precisely the reason my Whale manual bilge pump is working so 
> poorly.  In the 9 years I have owned Cats Paw, I have replaced the rubber 
> flapper valves 3 times - most recently last year.  But this no longer solves 
> the corrosion problem of the metal pump, which keeps the flapper valves from 
> closing well.  I also installed a one-way rubber flap valve on the intake of 
> the hose to facilitate priming the pump, but that has been insufficient to 
> solve the problem caused by corrosion of the pump itself.
>
> A similar pump (also a Whale I think) continues to work well.  One reason is 
> that the pump (under the washstand) is not located above the holding tank, 
> but from Dennis’s description, it probably also helps that we use “fresh” 
> water from the water tank to flush the head, so salt water never remains in 
> the pump.  And, of course, most of our sailing is not far offshore, so the 
> holding tank is pumped out by the boatyard launch.
>
> Are there other brands of manual pumps I could replace the Whale pump with 
> that do not have this problem? Perhaps made of a corrosion-resistant 
> material? That might be a better, and more permanent solution.
>
> Eric Frank
> Cat’s Paw, CC35 II
> Mattapoisett, MA
>
>> Hot button rant!
>>
>> If any lister has an alloy (metal) body Whale or other brand manual bilge
>> pump, I *STRONGLY* suggest you disassemble it and inspect the sealing
>> surfaces.  These pumps, particularly when in salt or brackish water
>> service, are subject to corrosion and pitting.  If the corrosion is severe,
>> the pump may not prime or pump.
>>
>> When I bought Touche', I inspected the pump and found it to be essentially
>> unusable due to severe pitting and corrosion on the sealing surfaces.  A
>> service kit would have been worthless.  I bought a new pump.  Before
>> installing the new pump, I disassembled it, coated the sealing surfaces
>> with TefGel and reassembled.
>>
>> Kevin Benoit just bought a 35-2 and ran into the same issue.  He also
>> bought a new pump and coated the surfaces.
>>
>> I clean Touche's bilge about twice a year.  I use the electric pump to
>> empty the bilge until the water is clean dock (city) water.  I then test
>> the manual bilge pump and use it to empty the bilge leaving clean dock
>> water in the pump.
>>
>> If, for whatever reason, I use the manual pump to remove brackish or salt
>> water from the bilge, I flush the bilge with dock water and leave dock
>> water in the manual pump.
>>
>> Please test your manual pump at least annually and inspect it if you've
>> never done so.  This pump may not only save your boat, it may save you and
>> your family!!
>>
>> Dennis C.
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>


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Re: Stus-List TV antenna

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Chuck, Getting the antenna up to the top of the mast would certainly 
help reception.   What antenna are considering putting up there?


Danny


On 5/7/2018 10:32 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:


Hi Edd,

I am near Baltimore and as I stated earlier,  "I get 35 channels with 
a leaf antenna I lay on the deck, but it sometimes pixelates just when 
the comedian says the punchline.  Can be frustrating."  I was 
wondering if a mast mounted TV antenna was worth the trouble.



Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
On May 7, 2018 at 10:11 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Chuck,

Maybe it’s because we are so close to NYC, but I know a few people 
who have those $20-$30 HDTV antennas that stick to a hatch. They work 
well for them.


All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, New York
www.StarshipSailing.com 
---
914.774.9767   | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone X
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize


On May 7, 2018, at 7:40 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Hey guys,


I am rewiring the mast and lighting and VHF antenna and wonder if I 
should pull in a TV antenna cable?  Does anyone have one that works 
well? I get 35 channels with a leaf antenna I lay on the deck, but it 
sometimes pixelates just when the comedian says the punchline.  Can 
be frustrating.



Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
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Stus-List 33-2 mast step/ump was RE: 1985 C&C 33 Bilge Issue

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Greg Sutherland did this on Siesta his 33-2 last year

Mike
HAlifax

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruno 
Lachance via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 07, 2018 4:28 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bruno Lachance
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33 Bilge Issue

Mike,

The story began with a small crack at the top aft of the sump, in front of the 
aft keel bolt, on which the wascher and nut was also sinking a bit. I starded 
grinding the area . I ended up grinding the gel coat around the sump and then 
yes, I added layers of 1708 cloth with epoxy.

The best job would have been to drop the keel and add multiple layers from one 
side to the others covering the bottom. What I did was less labor intensive. 
After sanding I added layers to the sump going from maybe 6-8 inches on each 
side of the sump ( flat secto the bottom of the walls. I also strengthened the 
stringers in this area alternating my layers to better spread the loads. The 
stringer that bridges the sump was very thin.

It is a bit hard to describe, hope you get the idea.

The mast step is next job on the list. Next fall. Will do it like another 
lister did on his 33. Can't remember the name right now.

Obtenez Outlook pour iOS

From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf 
of Michael Crombie via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Monday, May 7, 2018 1:47:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Michael Crombie
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33 Bilge Issue

Hi Ray,

I had the same problem with my 33.  I think it was due to 2 issues...1. The PO 
had a hard grounding at some point  and 2 the 33 mkii mast steps need to be 
strengthened. My mast was compressing the step.

Your description matches mine exactly...water seeping in the side walls of the 
bilge.

Anyway, i was able to sail for a season, but at the end of the season I sailed 
straight over to a good yard. They rebuilt the mast step,  dropped the keel, 
and did some other repairs. This was $$.  After the job i still had a tiny bit 
of ingress, but i sanded all around where the repair work was done, barrier 
coated it and now have a dry bilge.

Bruno has got me thinking about strenghening the bilge.  How did you do this 
Bruno?  Did you you lay down a few layers of glass cloth?

Mike

On Mon, May 7, 2018, 9:33 AM Raymond Macklin via CnC-List, 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello:

It is that time of season for the big Splash.  I have run into an issue since I 
put it in the water.  My bilge pump is running continuously.  I took a close 
look and I am noticing the water is seeping in from the walls of the bilge. 
Prior to launching I took a real close look at the keel.  I saw no issues, no 
smile, nothing.  The only part I did notice was the very bottom of the keel.  
Since the keel rests on the bottom of the cradle, I cannot do much inspection 
prior.  This time I happen to see it while on the lift.  I was not a smooth 
like the sides of the keel.  In fact it was not good at all. Does that sound 
right.  I see now water coming from any other area.  Anybody have an 
recommendations on what to do?

Ray
LakeHouse
Milwaukee WI.
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Stus-List 1985 C&C Bilge Issue

[Ray Macklin via CnC-List]

Thanks for everyone’s input. You gave me a lot to chew on. Does anyone have the 
tork specifications for the keel bolts and the size of the nut and is it 
metric.  

Thanks 
Ray. 

> On May 7, 2018, at 9:35 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
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> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re:  1985 C&C 33 Bilge Issue (Bruno Lachance)
>   2.  Toerail rebedding (Eugene Fodor)
>   3. Re:  Question about anchor light (Chuck S)
>   4.  TV antenna (Chuck S)
>   5. Re:  C&C 33 MK II Bilge pumps (Neil Gallagher)
>   6. Re:  TV antenna (Edd Schillay)
>   7. Re:  TV antenna (Chuck S)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 7 May 2018 19:27:59 +
> From: Bruno Lachance 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" ,
>"cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33 Bilge Issue
> Message-ID:
>
> 
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"
> 
> Mike,
> 
> The story began with a small crack at the top aft of the sump, in front of 
> the aft keel bolt, on which the wascher and nut was also sinking a bit. I 
> starded grinding the area . I ended up grinding the gel coat around the sump 
> and then yes, I added layers of 1708 cloth with epoxy.
> 
> The best job would have been to drop the keel and add multiple layers from 
> one side to the others covering the bottom. What I did was less labor 
> intensive. After sanding I added layers to the sump going from maybe 6-8 
> inches on each side of the sump ( flat secto the bottom of the walls. I also 
> strengthened the stringers in this area alternating my layers to better 
> spread the loads. The stringer that bridges the sump was very thin.
> 
> It is a bit hard to describe, hope you get the idea.
> 
> The mast step is next job on the list. Next fall. Will do it like another 
> lister did on his 33. Can?t remember the name right now.
> 
> Obtenez Outlook pour iOS
> 
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of Michael Crombie 
> via CnC-List 
> Sent: Monday, May 7, 2018 1:47:10 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Michael Crombie
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1985 C&C 33 Bilge Issue
> 
> Hi Ray,
> 
> I had the same problem with my 33.  I think it was due to 2 issues...1. The 
> PO had a hard grounding at some point  and 2 the 33 mkii mast steps need to 
> be strengthened. My mast was compressing the step.
> 
> Your description matches mine exactly...water seeping in the side walls of 
> the bilge.
> 
> Anyway, i was able to sail for a season, but at the end of the season I 
> sailed straight over to a good yard. They rebuilt the mast step,  dropped the 
> keel, and did some other repairs. This was $$.  After the job i still had a 
> tiny bit of ingress, but i sanded all around where the repair work was done, 
> barrier coated it and now have a dry bilge.
> 
> Bruno has got me thinking about strenghening the bilge.  How did you do this 
> Bruno?  Did you you lay down a few layers of glass cloth?
> 
> Mike
> 
> 
> On Mon, May 7, 2018, 9:33 AM Raymond Macklin via CnC-List, 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Hello:
> 
> It is that time of season for the big Splash.  I have run into an issue since 
> I put it in the water.  My bilge pump is running continuously.  I took a 
> close look and I am noticing the water is seeping in from the walls of the 
> bilge. Prior to launching I took a real close look at the keel.  I saw no 
> issues, no smile, nothing.  The only part I did notice was the very bottom of 
> the keel.  Since the keel rests on the bottom of the cradle, I cannot do much 
> inspection prior.  This time I happen to see it while on the lift.  I was not 
> a smooth like the sides of the keel.  In fact it was not good at all. Does 
> that sound right.  I see now water coming from any other area.  Anybody have 
> an recommendations on what to do?
> 
> Ray
> LakeHouse
> Milwaukee WI.
> ___
> 
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> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 7 May 2018 16:39:00 -0500
> From: Eugene Fodor