Stus-List C&C Rendezvous, Aug 10-12, Telegraph Harbour

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Fred

And you didn’t call?  Damn, I had to drink along...

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660


> On Jul 16, 2018, at 6:24 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2018 15:37:37 -0700
> From: Fred Hazzard 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C Rendezvous, Aug 10-12, Telegraph Harbour
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Tom, we just stayed Saturday evening at your clubs dock in Quartermaster
> harbor. What a great facility.  I also was able see the marvelous Alera. It
> looks almost like a new boat.
> Thanks for the hospitality.  Your resident live aboard is a neat old guy to
> talk with.
> 
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C&C 44
> Portland Or
___

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Re: Stus-List Stern Ladder Hull Guard-Feet

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Wow. $30?

 

The white crutch tips I’ve bought at either Walgreens or CVS (only two 
pharmacies in town and I can’t recall where I got them) with a 1” diameter 
fender washer installed last about 3 or 4 years in the Carolina sun. But a pair 
only costs $6 or $7. (BTW, these also flare out to about 2” diameter contact 
area on the transom.)

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2018 10:39 AM
To: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
Cc: Danny Haughey 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stern Ladder Hull Guard-Feet

 

Ok I ordered some $30 crutch tips with a steel disc that is chemically bonded 
on both sides to the surrounding rubber body.  I'll spray them with some UV 
protectant,  They also have a 2" diameter base.

We'll see...

Thanks for the tips! (pun intended)

DAnny



 

On 7/16/2018 9:47 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:

Don’t know what they are called but rubber kitchen type table leg protectors 
work for me.

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com  

 

On Monday, July 16, 2018, Danny Haughey via CnC-List  
  wrote: 

 

Hello again, are there any clever ways to protect the transom from the boarding 
ladder feet?  The cane tips I'm currenty using don't really last out in the 
elements.  And with a new paint job I'm looking for something better to use. 
Does anyone have any suggestions. Thanks, Danny mattapoisett, ma 
___ Thanks everyone for supporting 
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 

 

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Re: Stus-List Catharsis message

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

I to feel you pain. I won't say have run aground, but I did not the Ballard 
railroad bridge when it was down just before I sold Pegasus my LF38. Not only 
do you have to watch but I guess the sky too. ;) After the pain and suffering 
and the boat is fixed, you have a great story for the next rendezvous. Doug


Doug Mountjoy Rebecca Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC, WA.


 Original message From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/16/18  08:18  (GMT-08:00) To: CnC CnC 
discussion list  Cc: David Knecht 
 Subject: Stus-List Catharsis message 
It is a sad morning here and I need some help to drag me out of my depression.  
This list is my support group, advisers, experts and therapists.  Or maybe you 
will kick my butt for being an idiot and that could help as well.  Aries had a 
serious grounding on a reef on Saturday and is currently awaiting insurance to 
start assessing the situation.  We were barely towed off the reef by SeaTow and 
the boat is on the hard at a local marina.  The damage is worse than I had 
hoped and better than it could have been.  When they were able to pull us off 
the lip of the reef (tide going out, getting desperate) the rudder hit the reef 
and bent the shaft, damaged the hull around the shaft and pushed the rear tip 
of the rudder up through the hull.    The bottom of the wing keel is also 
chewed up from grinding on the reef.  That sound of hull grinding over rock is 
now forever seared into my brain.  South Shore yachts actually lists the rudder 
on their site (thanks to the list for making me aware of their C&C parts), and 
I am hoping there is nothing else damaged that was not obvious.  No one was 
hurt, except my pride and confidence.  Leaving the marina, I now have an 
appreciation for the emotions of people who abandon their floating homes at 
sea.  At least I will hopefully get mine back.
I have gone over the incident a thousand times trying to understand what 
happened and how I could have prevented it.  I thought I was hyperaware of all 
the hazards in the Fishers Island Sound area and swore that I would never 
ground the boat again after an incident with an unmarked reef during a race a 
few years ago.  I try to race with a priority of safety, fun and speed, in that 
order.  I almost always have crew who are not sailors other than racing with 
me, which I enjoy, but takes some of my focus away from other things.  We had 
spent the day in a long race all over Fishers Island sound.  It was blowing 15+ 
and we had worked very hard to get around the course and the last leg was a 
straight downwind sprint to the finish heading due North toward the CT coast.  
With 3 inexperienced crew I was happy that we were in second place in our class 
and focused on getting to the line.  We crossed the line, then jibed over to 
head back west to parallel the coast to our home port of New London and had 
just taken a deep breath, congratulated the crew when we hit the reef.  It 
turns out that the Race Committee had set the finish line inshore and just East 
of the single offshore buoy marking Horseshoe Reef.  I never saw (or 
recognized) the buoy because it was behind the mainsail as we approached the 
finish and I was looking for the finish line, not other buoys.  By the time we 
jibed, it was essentially over my shoulder.  I did not see the buoy until I 
looked around when we hit the reef and realized where we were.  A hundred yards 
inshore and we would have been fine and a hundred yards offshore and we would 
have seen the buoy and passed the correct side of it.  I think the Race 
Committee deserves some part of the blame for setting the finish line in a 
dangerous location but certainly my lack of awareness of where I was relative 
to dangers (of which there are many in Fishers Island Sound) was the major 
factor.  If I had looked carefully at the chart at any point, I presume I would 
have recognized the danger of the finishing area, but we were closely following 
the lead boat and so our location was not an issue until we finished. I was in 
familiar waters but I just did not recognize precisely where I was in familiar 
waters.  The other boats near us turned East while we turned West so we were 
not following anyone after the turn.  
If anyone has any suggestions, comments or strategies to help prevent this, I 
am all ears.  A moments inattention is all it took and it makes me concerned 
about several factors- age, racing with non-sailor crew, racing in general.   
In our Wednesday night races, we race around the same marks every week, and it 
has taken time, but I now think I know every hazard and am aware of where we 
are relative to them while also keeping on top of the boat and crew.  This was 
an area I have sailed in many times but rarely race there.  Also in terms of 
the incident itself, if Seatow had not happened to be in the area and seen us 
and we were not able to get the boat off the reef until the next high tide, I 
have no idea what we would have done.  

Re: Stus-List Catharsis message

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

t; > happy that we were in second place in our class and focused on getting to
> > the line.  We crossed the line, then jibed over to head back west to
> > parallel the coast to our home port of New London and had just taken a
> deep
> > breath, congratulated the crew when we hit the reef.  It turns out that
> the
> > Race Committee had set the finish line inshore and just East of the
> single
> > offshore buoy marking Horseshoe Reef.  I never saw (or recognized) the
> buoy
> > because it was behind the mainsail as we approached the finish and I was
> > looking for the finish line, not other buoys.  By the time we jibed, it
> was
> > essentially over my shoulder.  I did not see the buoy until I looked
> around
> > when we hit the reef and realized where we were.  A hundred yards inshore
> > and we would have been fine and a hundred yards offshore and we would
> have
> > seen the buoy and passed the correct side of it.  I think the Race
> > Committee deserves some part of the blame for setting the finish line in
> a
> > dangerous location but certainly my lack of awareness of where I was
> > relative to dangers (of which there are many in Fishers Island Sound) was
> > the major factor.  If I had looked carefully at the chart at any point, I
> > presume I would have recognized the danger of the finishing area, but we
> > were closely following the lead boat and so our location was not an issue
> > until we finished. I was in familiar waters but I just did not recognize
> > precisely where I was in familiar waters.  The other boats near us turned
> > East while we turned West so we were not following anyone after the turn.
> >
> > If anyone has any suggestions, comments or strategies to help prevent
> > this, I am all ears.  A moments inattention is all it took and it makes
> me
> > concerned about several factors- age, racing with non-sailor crew, racing
> > in general.   In our Wednesday night races, we race around the same marks
> > every week, and it has taken time, but I now think I know every hazard
> and
> > am aware of where we are relative to them while also keeping on top of
> the
> > boat and crew.  This was an area I have sailed in many times but rarely
> > race there.  Also in terms of the incident itself, if Seatow had not
> > happened to be in the area and seen us and we were not able to get the
> boat
> > off the reef until the next high tide, I have no idea what we would have
>
> > done.  I know I have learned from other people?s disasters (always the
>
>
> > first thing I read when a new Sail magazine is delivered), so maybe this
> > will help someone else not have this happen or make someone feel better
> > about things that have happened to them.
> >
>
> > Relevant to the issue of thinking you know where you are when you don?t,
> > if you have not read Laurence Gonzales?s book Deep Survival, I highly
>
>
> > recommend it.  He talks a lot about the psychology of visual perception
> of
> > your local environment and how it affects decisions.  I think there are
> > lessons there for everyone, as many of the things he alerted me to I can
> > see over and over in everyday life and this is perhaps another example.
> > Dave
> >
> > Aries
> > 1990 C&C 34+
> > New London, CT
> >
> >
> > ___
> >
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> > and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> > use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> >
> >
>
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>
> Message: 3
> Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2018 12:48:09 -0400
> From: schiller 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Catharsis message
>
> Message-ID: <32a31a47-4367-0a71-a974-bb5edbed2...@bloomingdalecom.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"
>
>
>
> I definitely understand and feel your pain. Hopefully all will go well
> with the insurance and repairs.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Neil Schiller
> 1983 C&C 35-3, #028
> "Grace"
> Whitehall, Michigan
> WLYC
>
> .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
> Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List C&C Rendezvous, Aug 10-12, Telegraph Harbour

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Tom, we just stayed Saturday evening at your clubs dock in Quartermaster
harbor. What a great facility.  I also was able see the marvelous Alera. It
looks almost like a new boat.
Thanks for the hospitality.  Your resident live aboard is a neat old guy to
talk with.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland Or

On Mon, Jul 16, 2018 at 10:44 AM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey gang...here's the link to register for the PNW C&C Rendezvous.
> https://bit.ly/2up1AkS
>
> .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
> Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List launch finally!

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

 Mike, thanks!  I have roughly an 18 mile trip to my dock, so it took a while 
to get used to the idea that the boat was actually in the water and underway!  

 


Richard
s/v Bushmark 4; 1985 C&C 37 CB, Ohio River, Mile 584; 

Richard N. Bush  
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Persuasion37 via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Persuasion37 
Sent: Mon, Jul 16, 2018 1:55 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List launch finally!


Yay. Way to go Richard


Mike
PERSUASION

C&C 37 K/CB

Long Sault




Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
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Re: Stus-List Stern Ladder Hull Guard-Feet

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Dennis — go shaft your own paradigm…   :^)  (with apologies to Jim Watts…)

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Jul 16, 2018, at 12:31 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Rethink the solution.  Shaft your paradigm.

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Re: Stus-List launch finally!

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Yay. Way to go Richard

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Jul 15, 2018, at 3:52 PM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I am happy to report that we finally launched last Friday, ( I know it was 
> the 13th)...we stripped the bottom to bare fiberglass and put on 4 coats of 
> barrier epoxy and two coats of antifouling...she looks great ...under 
> water...! 
> 
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark 4; 1985 C&C 37 CB, Ohio River, Mile 584; 
> Richard N. Bush  
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
> 502-584-7255
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: John Conklin via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: John Conklin 
> Sent: Fri, Jul 13, 2018 1:41 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List 1988 37R Keel Shortening Advice?
> 
> The  keel on my 1982 - standard 37 was taken from 6’10”
>  (originally fin keel) to 5’6”
> with bulb 
> She sails like a dream. I can post pics but my message always get rejected :(
> shoot me email happy to send along 
> 
> John Conklin 
> S/V Halcyon 
> www.flirtingwithfire.net
> 
> On Jul 13, 2018, at 1:10 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi Noah,
> 
> It can be done. Too many details to list here, but this is a good start:
> https://marskeel.com/production/repair-modifications/draft-reductions/ 
> 
> Cheers, Russ
> Sweet 35mk-1
> for sale on Vancouver Island, feel free to forward link SVP,
> http://www.usednanaimo.com/classified-ad/CC-35-sailboat_29730445
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At 09:58 AM 7/13/2018, you wrote:
> Hi Everyone, I've purchased the 1988 37R 'Assailant' in Ontario and will be 
> using her as a cruiser instead of a racer. The 8'1" draw looks like it will 
> cause me some grief with the sailing I want to do along the St. Lawrence 
> River and onward. My plan is to shorten the keel. Does anyone have advice or 
> guidance to offer?
> 
> Many Thanks,
> 
> Noah
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>   Virus-free. www.avg.com
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   
> https://eur03.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray&data=02%7C01%7C%7C5e2434cc7e224000d5f908d5e8e3a86c%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C636670986829463071&sdata=72c6EbPWrKztf0zfI15agNLgoj9xmoaMQ7kPd%2BLNlJg%3D&reserved=0
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Stus-List Catharsis message

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

 have been fine and a hundred yards offshore and we would have
> seen the buoy and passed the correct side of it.  I think the Race
> Committee deserves some part of the blame for setting the finish line in a
> dangerous location but certainly my lack of awareness of where I was
> relative to dangers (of which there are many in Fishers Island Sound) was
> the major factor.  If I had looked carefully at the chart at any point, I
> presume I would have recognized the danger of the finishing area, but we
> were closely following the lead boat and so our location was not an issue
> until we finished. I was in familiar waters but I just did not recognize
> precisely where I was in familiar waters.  The other boats near us turned
> East while we turned West so we were not following anyone after the turn.
>
> If anyone has any suggestions, comments or strategies to help prevent
> this, I am all ears.  A moments inattention is all it took and it makes me
> concerned about several factors- age, racing with non-sailor crew, racing
> in general.   In our Wednesday night races, we race around the same marks
> every week, and it has taken time, but I now think I know every hazard and
> am aware of where we are relative to them while also keeping on top of the
> boat and crew.  This was an area I have sailed in many times but rarely
> race there.  Also in terms of the incident itself, if Seatow had not
> happened to be in the area and seen us and we were not able to get the boat
> off the reef until the next high tide, I have no idea what we would have
> done.  I know I have learned from other people?s disasters (always the
> first thing I read when a new Sail magazine is delivered), so maybe this
> will help someone else not have this happen or make someone feel better
> about things that have happened to them.
>
> Relevant to the issue of thinking you know where you are when you don?t,
> if you have not read Laurence Gonzales?s book Deep Survival, I highly
> recommend it.  He talks a lot about the psychology of visual perception of
> your local environment and how it affects decisions.  I think there are
> lessons there for everyone, as many of the things he alerted me to I can
> see over and over in everyday life and this is perhaps another example.
> Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Message: 3
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2018 12:48:09 -0400
From: schiller 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Catharsis message
Message-ID: <32a31a47-4367-0a71-a974-bb5edbed2...@bloomingdalecom.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; Format="flowed"

I definitely understand and feel your pain. Hopefully all will go well
with the insurance and repairs.

Good luck.

Neil Schiller
1983 C&C 35-3, #028
"Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC


.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


___

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Re: Stus-List Catharsis message

[David via CnC-List]

David,

We had two interesting experiences yesterday. We were moored in a Vineyard 
Haven, in the morning at low tide we felt this bang not once not twice I jumped 
up went to the cockpit and realized the boat was going up and down with waves 
and hitting the bottom not hard but hard of a scare the crap out of us.  So we 
ran aground without even moving. Later that same day we were going to our newly 
located Mooring which has plenty of deep water around it but apparently a 
neighboring mooring has six and a half feet of mud which we proceeded to trench 
our way through.

What a day for Keels and groundings. I hope all works well with your insurance 
adjuster and repairs

Get Outlook for Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Chuck S via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2018 1:40:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck S
Subject: Re: Stus-List Catharsis message

Hi David,
Sorry about the grounding.
Boats can be fixed. Be thankful you and crew are OK.

I have had many groundings that were no big deal and one horrible grounding 
that cost me $16K, so I know your pain very well. I hope your insurance comes 
through for you. Keep us posted on developments.

On July 16, 2018 at 11:18 AM David Knecht via CnC-List  
wrote:

It is a sad morning here and I need some help to drag me out of my depression.  
This list is my support group, advisers, experts and therapists.  Or maybe you 
will kick my butt for being an idiot and that could help as well.  Aries had a 
serious grounding on a reef on Saturday and is currently awaiting insurance to 
start assessing the situation.  We were barely towed off the reef by SeaTow and 
the boat is on the hard at a local marina.  The damage is worse than I had 
hoped and better than it could have been.  When they were able to pull us off 
the lip of the reef (tide going out, getting desperate) the rudder hit the reef 
and bent the shaft, damaged the hull around the shaft and pushed the rear tip 
of the rudder up through the hull.The bottom of the wing keel is also 
chewed up from grinding on the reef.  That sound of hull grinding over rock is 
now forever seared into my brain.  South Shore yachts actually lists the rudder 
on their site (thanks to the list for making me aware of their C&C parts), and 
I am hoping there is nothing else damaged that was not obvious.  No one was 
hurt, except my pride and confidence.  Leaving the marina, I now have an 
appreciation for the emotions of people who abandon their floating homes at 
sea.  At least I will hopefully get mine back.

I have gone over the incident a thousand times trying to understand what 
happened and how I could have prevented it.  I thought I was hyperaware of all 
the hazards in the Fishers Island Sound area and swore that I would never 
ground the boat again after an incident with an unmarked reef during a race a 
few years ago.  I try to race with a priority of safety, fun and speed, in that 
order.  I almost always have crew who are not sailors other than racing with 
me, which I enjoy, but takes some of my focus away from other things.  We had 
spent the day in a long race all over Fishers Island sound.  It was blowing 15+ 
and we had worked very hard to get around the course and the last leg was a 
straight downwind sprint to the finish heading due North toward the CT coast.  
With 3 inexperienced crew I was happy that we were in second place in our class 
and focused on getting to the line.  We crossed the line, then jibed over to 
head back west to parallel the coast to our home port of New London and had 
just taken a deep breath, congratulated the crew when we hit the reef.  It 
turns out that the Race Committee had set the finish line inshore and just East 
of the single offshore buoy marking Horseshoe Reef.  I never saw (or 
recognized) the buoy because it was behind the mainsail as we approached the 
finish and I was looking for the finish line, not other buoys.  By the time we 
jibed, it was essentially over my shoulder.  I did not see the buoy until I 
looked around when we hit the reef and realized where we were.  A hundred yards 
inshore and we would have been fine and a hundred yards offshore and we would 
have seen the buoy and passed the correct side of it.  I think the Race 
Committee deserves some part of the blame for setting the finish line in a 
dangerous location but certainly my lack of awareness of where I was relative 
to dangers (of which there are many in Fishers Island Sound) was the major 
factor.  If I had looked carefully at the chart at any point, I presume I would 
have recognized the danger of the finishing area, but we were closely following 
the lead boat and so our location was not an issue until we finished. I was in 
familiar waters but I just did not recognize precisely where I was in familiar 
waters.  The other boats near us turned East while we turned West so we were 
not following anyone after the turn.

If anyone has any suggestions, com

Stus-List C&C Rendezvous, Aug 10-12, Telegraph Harbour

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Hey gang...here's the link to register for the 
PNW C&C Rendezvous.  https://bit.ly/2up1AkS


.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C&C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


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Re: Stus-List Catharsis message

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi David,
Sorry about the grounding.
Boats can be fixed. Be thankful you and crew are OK.

I have had many groundings that were no big deal and one horrible grounding 
that cost me $16K, so I know your pain very well. I hope your insurance comes 
through for you. Keep us posted on developments.


> On July 16, 2018 at 11:18 AM David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> It is a sad morning here and I need some help to drag me out of my 
> depression.  This list is my support group, advisers, experts and therapists. 
>  Or maybe you will kick my butt for being an idiot and that could help as 
> well.  Aries had a serious grounding on a reef on Saturday and is currently 
> awaiting insurance to start assessing the situation.  We were barely towed 
> off the reef by SeaTow and the boat is on the hard at a local marina.  The 
> damage is worse than I had hoped and better than it could have been.  When 
> they were able to pull us off the lip of the reef (tide going out, getting 
> desperate) the rudder hit the reef and bent the shaft, damaged the hull 
> around the shaft and pushed the rear tip of the rudder up through the hull.   
>  The bottom of the wing keel is also chewed up from grinding on the reef.  
> That sound of hull grinding over rock is now forever seared into my brain.  
> South Shore yachts actually lists the rudder on their site (thanks to the 
> list for making me aware of their C&C parts), and I am hoping there is 
> nothing else damaged that was not obvious.  No one was hurt, except my pride 
> and confidence.  Leaving the marina, I now have an appreciation for the 
> emotions of people who abandon their floating homes at sea.  At least I will 
> hopefully get mine back.
> 
> I have gone over the incident a thousand times trying to understand what 
> happened and how I could have prevented it.  I thought I was hyperaware of 
> all the hazards in the Fishers Island Sound area and swore that I would never 
> ground the boat again after an incident with an unmarked reef during a race a 
> few years ago.  I try to race with a priority of safety, fun and speed, in 
> that order.  I almost always have crew who are not sailors other than racing 
> with me, which I enjoy, but takes some of my focus away from other things.  
> We had spent the day in a long race all over Fishers Island sound.  It was 
> blowing 15+ and we had worked very hard to get around the course and the last 
> leg was a straight downwind sprint to the finish heading due North toward the 
> CT coast.  With 3 inexperienced crew I was happy that we were in second place 
> in our class and focused on getting to the line.  We crossed the line, then 
> jibed over to head back west to parallel the coast to our home port of New 
> London and had just taken a deep breath, congratulated the crew when we hit 
> the reef.  It turns out that the Race Committee had set the finish line 
> inshore and just East of the single offshore buoy marking Horseshoe Reef.  I 
> never saw (or recognized) the buoy because it was behind the mainsail as we 
> approached the finish and I was looking for the finish line, not other buoys. 
>  By the time we jibed, it was essentially over my shoulder.  I did not see 
> the buoy until I looked around when we hit the reef and realized where we 
> were.  A hundred yards inshore and we would have been fine and a hundred 
> yards offshore and we would have seen the buoy and passed the correct side of 
> it.  I think the Race Committee deserves some part of the blame for setting 
> the finish line in a dangerous location but certainly my lack of awareness of 
> where I was relative to dangers (of which there are many in Fishers Island 
> Sound) was the major factor.  If I had looked carefully at the chart at any 
> point, I presume I would have recognized the danger of the finishing area, 
> but we were closely following the lead boat and so our location was not an 
> issue until we finished. I was in familiar waters but I just did not 
> recognize precisely where I was in familiar waters.  The other boats near us 
> turned East while we turned West so we were not following anyone after the 
> turn.  
> 
> If anyone has any suggestions, comments or strategies to help prevent 
> this, I am all ears.  A moments inattention is all it took and it makes me 
> concerned about several factors- age, racing with non-sailor crew, racing in 
> general.   In our Wednesday night races, we race around the same marks every 
> week, and it has taken time, but I now think I know every hazard and am aware 
> of where we are relative to them while also keeping on top of the boat and 
> crew.  This was an area I have sailed in many times but rarely race there.  
> Also in terms of the incident itself, if Seatow had not happened to be in the 
> area and seen us and we were not able to get the boat off the reef until the 
> next high tide, I have no idea what we would have done.  I know I have 
> learned from other people’s dis

Re: Stus-List Fresh water pressure pump

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

some of the newer Shurflo pumps have an arrangement that they can modulate the 
flow of water (depending on the use), so they won’t cycle that much, almost 
eliminating any need for an accumulator.

Marek

From: Dreuge via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2018 12:37
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dreuge
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fresh water pressure pump

In support of Dennis’ rely, I heard lots of good comments regarding Shurflu 
pumps.  That said, I am very happy with the Jabsco 31395-0092 ParMax 2.9.  This 
pump go for about $85 online.

Mine is connected up and away from the water tanks.  I can’t say how it would 
work connecting the holding tank to a faucet, but you may want to macerate 
first  ;-).


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

On Jul 16, 2018, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

On Mon, Jul 16, 2018 at 9:00 AM, John McKay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

I need to replace the fresh water pump between the holding tank and the
faucets on my C&C 33 MK II

I think I need a 2' to 2.5' lift.

Is there any benefit to trying to place the pump closer to the holding
tank level?

There are a lot of pumps out there from about $30 to $150.

What pumps are people buying these days?

John on Enterprise

Komoka Ont

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Re: Stus-List Stern Ladder Hull Guard-Feet

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Shaft?  Uh, shift.  But shaft works.  :)

Dennis C.

On Mon, Jul 16, 2018 at 12:31 PM, Dennis C.  wrote:

> Rethink the solution.  Shaft your paradigm.
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Stopper-Bumpers-Self-adhesive-
> Protectors-Prevent/dp/B06XPCLNP1/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_
> 229_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CCG7G6BA6M2NW9XPV423
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Zapour-Stopper-Protector-Adhesive-
> Handle/dp/B06VV2ZJJD/ref=pd_sim_229_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_
> rd_i=B06VV2ZJJD&pd_rd_r=a4fc38fe-891d-11e8-8ef3-
> 63b7862c0680&pd_rd_w=qlgYJ&pd_rd_wg=HYHAo&pf_rd_i=desktop-
> dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=7967298517161621930&
> pf_rd_r=CCG7G6BA6M2NW9XPV423&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_
> t=40701&psc=1&refRID=CCG7G6BA6M2NW9XPV423
>
> Dennis C.
>
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Re: Stus-List Stern Ladder Hull Guard-Feet

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Rethink the solution.  Shaft your paradigm.

https://www.amazon.com/Stopper-Bumpers-Self-adhesive-Protectors-Prevent/dp/B06XPCLNP1/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_229_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CCG7G6BA6M2NW9XPV423

https://www.amazon.com/Zapour-Stopper-Protector-Adhesive-Handle/dp/B06VV2ZJJD/ref=pd_sim_229_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B06VV2ZJJD&pd_rd_r=a4fc38fe-891d-11e8-8ef3-63b7862c0680&pd_rd_w=qlgYJ&pd_rd_wg=HYHAo&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=7967298517161621930&pf_rd_r=CCG7G6BA6M2NW9XPV423&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=CCG7G6BA6M2NW9XPV423

Dennis C.
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Re: Stus-List Stern Ladder Hull Guard-Feet

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I have also used quarters and/or fender washers.  The value is nearly the
same.  Once installed I also wrapped the boots in rescue tape.  As the
rubber degrades it may allow the whole boot to slip off.  The rescue tape
seems to be more resilient to the sun and weather so it helps keep the
boots in place even after they start to degrade.  The tape also keeps the
degrading rubber pieces captured in place so that they continue to
protect/cushion.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Mon, Jul 16, 2018, 10:41 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ok I ordered some $30 crutch tips with a steel disc that is chemically
> bonded on both sides to the surrounding rubber body.  I'll spray them with
> some UV protectant,  They also have a 2" diameter base.
>
> We'll see...
>
> Thanks for the tips! (pun intended)
>
> DAnny
>
> On 7/16/2018 9:47 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Don’t know what they are called but rubber kitchen type table leg
> protectors work for me.
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com
>
> On Monday, July 16, 2018, Danny Haughey via CnC-List
>   wrote:
>
> Hello again, are there any clever ways to protect the transom from the
> boarding ladder feet?  The cane tips I'm currenty using don't really last
> out in the elements.  And with a new paint job I'm looking for something
> better to use. Does anyone have any suggestions. Thanks, Danny
> mattapoisett, ma ___ Thanks
> everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every
> one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to
> send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Shop our 2-day Flash Sale. Offers expire at midnight tomorrow the 17th!

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Just remember, refurb stuff only comes with a 90 day guaranty.

Joel

On Mon, Jul 16, 2018 at 1:07 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> For anyone who has been thinking about installing Raymarine instruments,
> they're having a flash sale until midnight tomorrow.  Looks like some good
> buys.
>
> Alan Bergen
>
>
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Raymarine 
> Date: Mon, Jul 16, 2018 at 9:35 AM
> Subject: Shop our 2-day Flash Sale. Offers expire at midnight tomorrow the
> 17th!
> To: trya...@alumni.usc.edu
>
>
> Check out the Raymarine Flash Sale - HUGE SAVINGS!
> [image: FLIR]
> 
> [image: Flash Sale - Huge Savings]
> 
> Shop our 2-day Flash Sale.
> Offers expire at midnight tomorrow the 17th!
>
> [image: a128 Network Multifunction Display Save up to $1,000]
> 
> eS78 Multifunction Displays
> WAS $1,199.00
> NOW ONLY $599.99!
> (+ FREE TRANSDUCER)
> SHOP NOW
> 
>
> [image: a78 Network Multifunction Display Was $649.99, now only $299!(+
> free transducer)]
> 
> Refurbished Refurbished
> Raymarine Products
>
> Save up to $10,000
> SHOP NOW
> 
> Call us at 1-800-254-0630 with any questions. <1-800-254-0630>
> [image: Raymarine]
> 
>
> 
>
> 
>
> 
>
> 
>
> 
>
> Copyright © 2018, 

Stus-List Fwd: Shop our 2-day Flash Sale. Offers expire at midnight tomorrow the 17th!

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

For anyone who has been thinking about installing Raymarine instruments,
they're having a flash sale until midnight tomorrow.  Looks like some good
buys.

Alan Bergen


-- Forwarded message --
From: Raymarine 
Date: Mon, Jul 16, 2018 at 9:35 AM
Subject: Shop our 2-day Flash Sale. Offers expire at midnight tomorrow the
17th!
To: trya...@alumni.usc.edu


Check out the Raymarine Flash Sale - HUGE SAVINGS!
[image: FLIR]

[image: Flash Sale - Huge Savings]

Shop our 2-day Flash Sale.
Offers expire at midnight tomorrow the 17th!

[image: a128 Network Multifunction Display Save up to $1,000]

eS78 Multifunction Displays
WAS $1,199.00
NOW ONLY $599.99!
(+ FREE TRANSDUCER)
SHOP NOW


[image: a78 Network Multifunction Display Was $649.99, now only $299!(+
free transducer)]

Refurbished Refurbished
Raymarine Products

Save up to $10,000
SHOP NOW

Call us at 1-800-254-0630 with any questions. <1-800-254-0630>
[image: Raymarine]











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Re: Stus-List Fresh water pressure pump

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I would suggest that you find a pump that produces the highest pressure and
a flow of no less than about 3 gpm.  Most of the pumps will have a lift of
10 feet so there is little difference there.  Modern faucets work best with
50 to 60 psi.  I replaced the galley faucet with one from the kitchen
department at Lowes.  It has a removable head and spray selector which
really facilitates cleaning large dishes and pots in a small sink.  The
only problem is that when the pressure drops, the selector automatically
switches back to straight stream.  My 30 psi pump produces insufficient
pressure to keep the spray setting selected.  We also have a deck shower,
enclosed shower, toilet, faucet in the head, and faucet in the forward
birth.  If any of these loads are used together then the pressure is
diminished.  If all you have or intend to have is one single, simple, low
flow faucet then a 1 gpm, 30 psi pump will be sufficient.  The only other
consideration would be the amount of noise during operation.  Some pumps
have great dampening mounts and noise reducing features.  Others, not so
much.  A higher flow and pressure pump will likely cause more noise which
can be disturbing while trying to sleep at night.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Mon, Jul 16, 2018, 10:01 AM John McKay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I need to replace the fresh water pump between the holding tank and the
> faucets on my C&C 33 MK II
>
> I think I need a 2' to 2.5' lift.
>
> Is there any benefit to trying to place the pump closer to the holding
> tank level?
>
> There are a lot of pumps out there from about $30 to $150.
>
> What pumps are people buying these days?
>
> John on Enterprise
>
> Komoka Ont
>
>
>
>
>
> 
>  Virus-free.
> www.avg.com
> 
> <#m_3842648630552480503_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Catharsis message

[James Bibb via CnC-List]

Very sad story to read.  I ran aground last year in a very familiar harbor race 
as I was concentrating on rounding the mark which drifted too close to shore.  
I was very lucky as I ran up an over a sand-bar and was able to get off quickly 
on a lee-shore with the time running out quickly.  

I know it will happen again as I almost ran up on a reef last summer on a race 
condition…watched the reef for hours and mis-judged the current and was able to 
fire up the engines at the last moment.  If the engine did not fire up, I would 
have been hard-aground.  I made a skipper error in both situations simply by 
not being prudent.  Learned a lot and swear I will not make the same mistake 
but I know I will at some point or at least there will be the risk. 

Again, very sad news.  I wish you all the best. 

James Bibb

C&C 34/36R Darwin’s Folly
Juneau, AK. 


> On Jul 16, 2018, at 8:48 AM, schiller via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I definitely understand and feel your pain.  Hopefully all will go well with 
> the insurance and repairs.
> 
> Good luck.
> 
> Neil Schiller
> 1983 C&C 35-3, #028
> "Grace"
> Whitehall, Michigan
> WLYC
> 
> On 7/16/2018 11:18 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
>> It is a sad morning here and I need some help to drag me out of my 
>> depression.  This list is my support group, advisers, experts and 
>> therapists.  Or maybe you will kick my butt for being an idiot and that 
>> could help as well.  Aries had a serious grounding on a reef on Saturday and 
>> is currently awaiting insurance to start assessing the situation.  We were 
>> barely towed off the reef by SeaTow and the boat is on the hard at a local 
>> marina.  The damage is worse than I had hoped and better than it could have 
>> been.  When they were able to pull us off the lip of the reef (tide going 
>> out, getting desperate) the rudder hit the reef and bent the shaft, damaged 
>> the hull around the shaft and pushed the rear tip of the rudder up through 
>> the hull.The bottom of the wing keel is also chewed up from grinding on 
>> the reef.  That sound of hull grinding over rock is now forever seared into 
>> my brain.  South Shore yachts actually lists the rudder on their site 
>> (thanks to the list for making me aware of their C&C parts), and I am hoping 
>> there is nothing else damaged that was not obvious.  No one was hurt, except 
>> my pride and confidence.  Leaving the marina, I now have an appreciation for 
>> the emotions of people who abandon their floating homes at sea.  At least I 
>> will hopefully get mine back.
>> 
>> I have gone over the incident a thousand times trying to understand what 
>> happened and how I could have prevented it.  I thought I was hyperaware of 
>> all the hazards in the Fishers Island Sound area and swore that I would 
>> never ground the boat again after an incident with an unmarked reef during a 
>> race a few years ago.  I try to race with a priority of safety, fun and 
>> speed, in that order.  I almost always have crew who are not sailors other 
>> than racing with me, which I enjoy, but takes some of my focus away from 
>> other things.  We had spent the day in a long race all over Fishers Island 
>> sound.  It was blowing 15+ and we had worked very hard to get around the 
>> course and the last leg was a straight downwind sprint to the finish heading 
>> due North toward the CT coast.  With 3 inexperienced crew I was happy that 
>> we were in second place in our class and focused on getting to the line.  We 
>> crossed the line, then jibed over to head back west to parallel the coast to 
>> our home port of New London and had just taken a deep breath, congratulated 
>> the crew when we hit the reef.  It turns out that the Race Committee had set 
>> the finish line inshore and just East of the single offshore buoy marking 
>> Horseshoe Reef.  I never saw (or recognized) the buoy because it was behind 
>> the mainsail as we approached the finish and I was looking for the finish 
>> line, not other buoys.  By the time we jibed, it was essentially over my 
>> shoulder.  I did not see the buoy until I looked around when we hit the reef 
>> and realized where we were.  A hundred yards inshore and we would have been 
>> fine and a hundred yards offshore and we would have seen the buoy and passed 
>> the correct side of it.  I think the Race Committee deserves some part of 
>> the blame for setting the finish line in a dangerous location but certainly 
>> my lack of awareness of where I was relative to dangers (of which there are 
>> many in Fishers Island Sound) was the major factor.  If I had looked 
>> carefully at the chart at any point, I presume I would have recognized the 
>> danger of the finishing area, but we were closely following the lead boat 
>> and so our location was not an issue until we finished. I was in familiar 
>> waters but I just did not recognize precisely where I was in familiar 
>> waters.  The other boats near us turned East while we turned West so we

Re: Stus-List Catharsis message

[schiller via CnC-List]

I definitely understand and feel your pain. Hopefully all will go well 
with the insurance and repairs.


Good luck.

Neil Schiller
1983 C&C 35-3, #028
"Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC

On 7/16/2018 11:18 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
It is a sad morning here and I need some help to drag me out of my 
depression.  This list is my support group, advisers, experts and 
therapists.  Or maybe you will kick my butt for being an idiot and 
that could help as well.  Aries had a serious grounding on a reef on 
Saturday and is currently awaiting insurance to start assessing the 
situation.  We were barely towed off the reef by SeaTow and the boat 
is on the hard at a local marina.  The damage is worse than I had 
hoped and better than it could have been.  When they were able to pull 
us off the lip of the reef (tide going out, getting desperate) the 
rudder hit the reef and bent the shaft, damaged the hull around the 
shaft and pushed the rear tip of the rudder up through the hull.   
 The bottom of the wing keel is also chewed up from grinding on the 
reef.  That sound of hull grinding over rock is now forever seared 
into my brain.  South Shore yachts actually lists the rudder on their 
site (thanks to the list for making me aware of their C&C parts), and 
I am hoping there is nothing else damaged that was not obvious.  No 
one was hurt, except my pride and confidence.  Leaving the marina, I 
now have an appreciation for the emotions of people who abandon their 
floating homes at sea.  At least I will hopefully get mine back.


I have gone over the incident a thousand times trying to understand 
what happened and how I could have prevented it.  I thought I was 
hyperaware of all the hazards in the Fishers Island Sound area and 
swore that I would never ground the boat again after an incident with 
an unmarked reef during a race a few years ago.  I try to race with a 
priority of safety, fun and speed, in that order.  I almost always 
have crew who are not sailors other than racing with me, which I 
enjoy, but takes some of my focus away from other things.  We had 
spent the day in a long race all over Fishers Island sound.  It was 
blowing 15+ and we had worked very hard to get around the course and 
the last leg was a straight downwind sprint to the finish heading due 
North toward the CT coast.  With 3 inexperienced crew I was happy that 
we were in second place in our class and focused on getting to the 
line.  We crossed the line, then jibed over to head back west to 
parallel the coast to our home port of New London and had just taken a 
deep breath, congratulated the crew when we hit the reef.  It turns 
out that the Race Committee had set the finish line inshore and just 
East of the single offshore buoy marking Horseshoe Reef.  I never saw 
(or recognized) the buoy because it was behind the mainsail as we 
approached the finish and I was looking for the finish line, not other 
buoys.  By the time we jibed, it was essentially over my shoulder.  I 
did not see the buoy until I looked around when we hit the reef and 
realized where we were.  A hundred yards inshore and we would have 
been fine and a hundred yards offshore and we would have seen the buoy 
and passed the correct side of it.  I think the Race Committee 
deserves some part of the blame for setting the finish line in a 
dangerous location but certainly my lack of awareness of where I was 
relative to dangers (of which there are many in Fishers Island Sound) 
was the major factor.  If I had looked carefully at the chart at any 
point, I presume I would have recognized the danger of the finishing 
area, but we were closely following the lead boat and so our location 
was not an issue until we finished. I was in familiar waters but I 
just did not recognize precisely where I was in familiar waters.  The 
other boats near us turned East while we turned West so we were not 
following anyone after the turn.


If anyone has any suggestions, comments or strategies to help prevent 
this, I am all ears.  A moments inattention is all it took and it 
makes me concerned about several factors- age, racing with non-sailor 
crew, racing in general.   In our Wednesday night races, we race 
around the same marks every week, and it has taken time, but I now 
think I know every hazard and am aware of where we are relative to 
them while also keeping on top of the boat and crew.  This was an area 
I have sailed in many times but rarely race there.  Also in terms of 
the incident itself, if Seatow had not happened to be in the area and 
seen us and we were not able to get the boat off the reef until the 
next high tide, I have no idea what we would have done.  I know I have 
learned from other people’s disasters (always the first thing I read 
when a new Sail magazine is delivered), so maybe this will help 
someone else not have this happen or make someone feel better about 
things that have happened to them.


Relevant to the issue of thinking you know where y

Re: Stus-List Catharsis message

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Ugh!  Sorry for your misfortune.  I believe there are sailors who have run
aground and those that will.  The severity is the only differentiation.  In
the Chesapeake, fortunately we have very little rock or reefs.  In Solomons
we have a number of shole areas in which we sail around regularly.  Even
when aware of the hazards I have occasionally found myself being slipped
below the line created by the navaids.  I ha e to remember not to focus
exclusively on the one i  front of me but the one behind as well.

Whether driving on the road or the water my dad always said look ahead and
make sure to have and exit strategy - a place to bail out.  Your experience
is a sobbing reminder.  Is it safe to assume that you have a chartplotter
at the helm?  I believe some chartplotters have the ability to alert you to
hazards (minimum depth, collision avoidance, danger zones, etc.)  Maybe
look into these features in the future.


All then best,

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Mon, Jul 16, 2018, 11:19 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> It is a sad morning here and I need some help to drag me out of my
> depression.  This list is my support group, advisers, experts and
> therapists.  Or maybe you will kick my butt for being an idiot and that
> could help as well.  Aries had a serious grounding on a reef on Saturday
> and is currently awaiting insurance to start assessing the situation.  We
> were barely towed off the reef by SeaTow and the boat is on the hard at a
> local marina.  The damage is worse than I had hoped and better than it
> could have been.  When they were able to pull us off the lip of the reef
> (tide going out, getting desperate) the rudder hit the reef and bent the
> shaft, damaged the hull around the shaft and pushed the rear tip of the
> rudder up through the hull.The bottom of the wing keel is also chewed
> up from grinding on the reef.  That sound of hull grinding over rock is now
> forever seared into my brain.  South Shore yachts actually lists the rudder
> on their site (thanks to the list for making me aware of their C&C parts),
> and I am hoping there is nothing else damaged that was not obvious.  No one
> was hurt, except my pride and confidence.  Leaving the marina, I now have
> an appreciation for the emotions of people who abandon their floating homes
> at sea.  At least I will hopefully get mine back.
>
> I have gone over the incident a thousand times trying to understand what
> happened and how I could have prevented it.  I thought I was hyperaware of
> all the hazards in the Fishers Island Sound area and swore that I would
> never ground the boat again after an incident with an unmarked reef during
> a race a few years ago.  I try to race with a priority of safety, fun and
> speed, in that order.  I almost always have crew who are not sailors other
> than racing with me, which I enjoy, but takes some of my focus away from
> other things.  We had spent the day in a long race all over Fishers Island
> sound.  It was blowing 15+ and we had worked very hard to get around the
> course and the last leg was a straight downwind sprint to the finish
> heading due North toward the CT coast.  With 3 inexperienced crew I was
> happy that we were in second place in our class and focused on getting to
> the line.  We crossed the line, then jibed over to head back west to
> parallel the coast to our home port of New London and had just taken a deep
> breath, congratulated the crew when we hit the reef.  It turns out that the
> Race Committee had set the finish line inshore and just East of the single
> offshore buoy marking Horseshoe Reef.  I never saw (or recognized) the buoy
> because it was behind the mainsail as we approached the finish and I was
> looking for the finish line, not other buoys.  By the time we jibed, it was
> essentially over my shoulder.  I did not see the buoy until I looked around
> when we hit the reef and realized where we were.  A hundred yards inshore
> and we would have been fine and a hundred yards offshore and we would have
> seen the buoy and passed the correct side of it.  I think the Race
> Committee deserves some part of the blame for setting the finish line in a
> dangerous location but certainly my lack of awareness of where I was
> relative to dangers (of which there are many in Fishers Island Sound) was
> the major factor.  If I had looked carefully at the chart at any point, I
> presume I would have recognized the danger of the finishing area, but we
> were closely following the lead boat and so our location was not an issue
> until we finished. I was in familiar waters but I just did not recognize
> precisely where I was in familiar waters.  The other boats near us turned
> East while we turned West so we were not following anyone after the turn.
>
> If anyone has any suggestions, comments or strategies to help prevent
> this, I am all ears.  A moments inattention is all it took and it makes me
> concerned a

Re: Stus-List Fresh water pressure pump

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

In support of Dennis’ rely, I heard lots of good comments regarding Shurflu 
pumps.  That said, I am very happy with the Jabsco 31395-0092 ParMax 2.9.  This 
pump go for about $85 online.  

Mine is connected up and away from the water tanks.  I can’t say how it would 
work connecting the holding tank to a faucet, but you may want to macerate 
first  ;-).


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Jul 16, 2018, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> On Mon, Jul 16, 2018 at 9:00 AM, John McKay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
>> I need to replace the fresh water pump between the holding tank and the
>> faucets on my C&C 33 MK II
>> 
>> I think I need a 2' to 2.5' lift.
>> 
>> Is there any benefit to trying to place the pump closer to the holding
>> tank level?
>> 
>> There are a lot of pumps out there from about $30 to $150.
>> 
>> What pumps are people buying these days?
>> 
>> John on Enterprise
>> 
>> Komoka Ont

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Fresh water pressure pump

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I recommend the smallest Shurflo unless you have a special need for
additional flow.

After repairing boats for a couple of decades, I think a Shurflo is better
than a Par.

Dennis C.

On Mon, Jul 16, 2018 at 9:00 AM, John McKay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I need to replace the fresh water pump between the holding tank and the
> faucets on my C&C 33 MK II
>
> I think I need a 2' to 2.5' lift.
>
> Is there any benefit to trying to place the pump closer to the holding
> tank level?
>
> There are a lot of pumps out there from about $30 to $150.
>
> What pumps are people buying these days?
>
> John on Enterprise
>
> Komoka Ont
>
>
>
>
>
> 
>  Virus-free.
> www.avg.com
> 
> <#m_-3093728634739414153_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Catharsis message

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

It is a sad morning here and I need some help to drag me out of my depression.  
This list is my support group, advisers, experts and therapists.  Or maybe you 
will kick my butt for being an idiot and that could help as well.  Aries had a 
serious grounding on a reef on Saturday and is currently awaiting insurance to 
start assessing the situation.  We were barely towed off the reef by SeaTow and 
the boat is on the hard at a local marina.  The damage is worse than I had 
hoped and better than it could have been.  When they were able to pull us off 
the lip of the reef (tide going out, getting desperate) the rudder hit the reef 
and bent the shaft, damaged the hull around the shaft and pushed the rear tip 
of the rudder up through the hull.The bottom of the wing keel is also 
chewed up from grinding on the reef.  That sound of hull grinding over rock is 
now forever seared into my brain.  South Shore yachts actually lists the rudder 
on their site (thanks to the list for making me aware of their C&C parts), and 
I am hoping there is nothing else damaged that was not obvious.  No one was 
hurt, except my pride and confidence.  Leaving the marina, I now have an 
appreciation for the emotions of people who abandon their floating homes at 
sea.  At least I will hopefully get mine back.

I have gone over the incident a thousand times trying to understand what 
happened and how I could have prevented it.  I thought I was hyperaware of all 
the hazards in the Fishers Island Sound area and swore that I would never 
ground the boat again after an incident with an unmarked reef during a race a 
few years ago.  I try to race with a priority of safety, fun and speed, in that 
order.  I almost always have crew who are not sailors other than racing with 
me, which I enjoy, but takes some of my focus away from other things.  We had 
spent the day in a long race all over Fishers Island sound.  It was blowing 15+ 
and we had worked very hard to get around the course and the last leg was a 
straight downwind sprint to the finish heading due North toward the CT coast.  
With 3 inexperienced crew I was happy that we were in second place in our class 
and focused on getting to the line.  We crossed the line, then jibed over to 
head back west to parallel the coast to our home port of New London and had 
just taken a deep breath, congratulated the crew when we hit the reef.  It 
turns out that the Race Committee had set the finish line inshore and just East 
of the single offshore buoy marking Horseshoe Reef.  I never saw (or 
recognized) the buoy because it was behind the mainsail as we approached the 
finish and I was looking for the finish line, not other buoys.  By the time we 
jibed, it was essentially over my shoulder.  I did not see the buoy until I 
looked around when we hit the reef and realized where we were.  A hundred yards 
inshore and we would have been fine and a hundred yards offshore and we would 
have seen the buoy and passed the correct side of it.  I think the Race 
Committee deserves some part of the blame for setting the finish line in a 
dangerous location but certainly my lack of awareness of where I was relative 
to dangers (of which there are many in Fishers Island Sound) was the major 
factor.  If I had looked carefully at the chart at any point, I presume I would 
have recognized the danger of the finishing area, but we were closely following 
the lead boat and so our location was not an issue until we finished. I was in 
familiar waters but I just did not recognize precisely where I was in familiar 
waters.  The other boats near us turned East while we turned West so we were 
not following anyone after the turn.  

If anyone has any suggestions, comments or strategies to help prevent this, I 
am all ears.  A moments inattention is all it took and it makes me concerned 
about several factors- age, racing with non-sailor crew, racing in general.   
In our Wednesday night races, we race around the same marks every week, and it 
has taken time, but I now think I know every hazard and am aware of where we 
are relative to them while also keeping on top of the boat and crew.  This was 
an area I have sailed in many times but rarely race there.  Also in terms of 
the incident itself, if Seatow had not happened to be in the area and seen us 
and we were not able to get the boat off the reef until the next high tide, I 
have no idea what we would have done.  I know I have learned from other 
people’s disasters (always the first thing I read when a new Sail magazine is 
delivered), so maybe this will help someone else not have this happen or make 
someone feel better about things that have happened to them.  

Relevant to the issue of thinking you know where you are when you don’t, if you 
have not read Laurence Gonzales’s book Deep Survival, I highly recommend it.  
He talks a lot about the psychology of visual perception of your local 
environment and how it affects decisions.  I think there are lesson

Re: Stus-List Charging issues

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

The regulator does not prioritise one battery (bank) of the other. If you have 
an ACR or an EchoCharger, the house should be priorities and the start battery 
should be charged once the house is full.

Btw. and I know you did not ask for it, but your house bank would work better 
if it was a single bank. After all you have a separate start battery.

Marek

From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, July 16, 2018 10:05
To: Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Cc: Danny Haughey
Subject: Re: Stus-List Charging issues


this is as much as I know right now.

The house and start are completely separate.  Even separate switches.  the 
start battery has its own on/off switch But, then the 3 house batteries are 
separated into a off/1/both/2 switch.  two batteries on 2 and one batter on 1.  
I was thinking the regulator would prioritize the start battery then send the 
current to the house when the start was satisfied.  I was wondering if the 
start battery never got satisfied would the regulator never send the current to 
the house bank?

On 7/16/2018 9:48 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
Also depends on which battery is supposed to be the first one charged.

On Mon, Jul 16, 2018 at 9:36 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:
I don't know what type of setup you have regarding the house and starting 
battery.  Is it a switch, acr, or echo-charge?  Depending on the answer, yes a 
failed start battery could affect the entire system.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Mon, Jul 16, 2018, 8:20 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote:

well, the battery was showing 12.7 by the time I got it back to the boat.  It 
would not start the engine.  I did jump start it and found the alternator was 
putting out 14.4 volts.  So I ran out and bought an interstate starting 
battery.  I installed that, started the engine and got 14.4 volts at the 
battery terminals with the engine running.  Then, I went sailing!

Anyway, my question now is, if the starting battery was not taking the charge, 
would the alternator just keep trying to charge the starting battery and never 
reach a full charge so never send anything to the house?  In essence, the spent 
battery was the break in the system like a bucket with a big hole in it?

On 7/15/2018 8:50 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
Disconnect for 24 hours and then take the voltage again.

Josh



On Sun, Jul 15, 2018, 8:47 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote:
12.9 reading with charger off.  It's a smart charger and will slow and then 
stop charge as battery charges.  It is sitting with charger attached just 
reading voltage



Thanks,
Danny
 Original message 
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Date: 7/15/18 8:04 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Charging issues

12.9v on or off the charger?  That's too low if on the charger.  Even the 
smallest trickle chargers put out ~13.5v

It is possible to have a one of the six cells go bad, reducing the battery's 
appropriate full charge voltage to 10.6 instead of 12.7  the charger is dumb 
and keeps trying to put as much as 14.7 into the battery.  This extra voltage 
overcharges the battery and boils off electrolyte.  Under this condition the 
battery voltage may never get to 14.7 but it can easily get to 12.7.  It will 
quickly decay and stabilize near 10.6-ish when the charger is removed.  This 
may take a few hours to occur.  If/When a load is applied the voltage will drop 
dramatically and stabilize near 10.6v.  If this is the case then you need a new 
battery.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Sun, Jul 15, 2018, 7:29 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Hi Rick,
Thank you for the insight.  The start battery showed just 12.1 when I put it on 
the charger.  I just went out and battery now shows full at 12.9 volts.

It seems like the charge isn't getting to the batteries.  This is one system I 
haven't dug into yet.  I guess that's going to change...

I think I need to find a diagram somewhere



Thanks,
Danny

 Original message 
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
Date: 7/14/18 11:09 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Charging issues

Generally, yes, if you are showing about 14 volts when the engine is running, 
the alternator is probably OK.

When you say the start battery is not charging, is it safe to assume that the 
start battery will not start the engine?

Under normal circumstances, and depending on the Amp-Hour capacity of the start 
battery, it will probably never get below 95% to 99% state of charge. (Unless, 
of course, you are using it to also power your house loads.)

For example, the 36 HP Universal in my 38 draws 175 amps for about 30 seconds 
in starting, or about 1.4 AH. That is about 1.3% discharge on the 105AH deep 
cycle battery I use for starting. (And only for starting except in an emergency)

So the start battery is capable of reaching full charge in just a f

Stus-List Cruising Destinations in Narraganset Bay

[Nauset Beach via CnC-List]

We are planning a cruise to Narraganset Bay next month and are interested in
any suggestions / tips / things to see on land, places to provision, etc. on
various harbors / anchorages.  It has been years since we have spent any
time there, though frequently stop over at Sachuest  on the Sekonnet when
passing by traveling east or west.  We prefer to anchor or grab a mooring
vs. tying up at a dock.  Our preliminary itinerary is to make a circle
around the bay:  

 

Dutch Island - probably a mooring at Dutch I Marina

 

Potter's Cove - is there a place to anchor or is it all moorings, are any
moorings open and available?

 

Bristol YC - plan to go to the Herreschoff and AC museum as has been redone
since we were there last, possibly the Blithewold Estate.  Is Linden Place
museum worth a visit?  

 

A couple nights going down the Sekonnet 

 

Any suggestions about any of these locations or others is appreciated.  Am
not planning on going to Newport as it is just too crowded.  Wickford has
been recommended as a great village to visit but the only time have been
there was tied up at a marina on a very hot and humid August day [not the
best memory] and did not see any moorings or a place to really anchor.
Battleship Cove is a possible though not sure the Admiral really wants to
visit the Massachusetts, and I am not sure I want to spend the night there,
if one can.   

 

TIA,

Brian

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Charging issues

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Thanks Joel,

I'll check the voltages at the house bank next time I'm at the boat.  We 
already know we see a jump in volts at the start battery.  So If I see 
no jump on the house bank, I have to chase down the wiring.


Danny

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Stern Ladder Hull Guard-Feet

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Ok I ordered some $30 crutch tips with a steel disc that is chemically 
bonded on both sides to the surrounding rubber body.  I'll spray them 
with some UV protectant,  They also have a 2" diameter base.


We'll see...

Thanks for the tips! (pun intended)

DAnny


On 7/16/2018 9:47 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
Don’t know what they are called but rubber kitchen type table leg 
protectors work for me.


Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com 

On Monday, July 16, 2018, Danny Haughey via 
CnC-List  wrote:


Hello again, are there any clever ways to protect the transom from
the boarding ladder feet?  The cane tips I'm currenty using don't
really last out in the elements.  And with a new paint job I'm
looking for something better to use. Does anyone have any
suggestions. Thanks, Danny mattapoisett, ma
___ Thanks everyone
for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every
one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Charging issues

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Danny,

You are going to need to trace wires.  The regulator does not see different
banks.  The alternator output could go to one or both.  If it goes to one,
there needs to be a device (ACR etc) or switch to charge the other.  If you
check the voltage at each bank befroe and just after you start the engine
you should see a jump in voltage at each bank if they are both being
charged.  If there is an ACR, one bank will fully charge before the load
dumps to the other bank.

Joel

On Mon, Jul 16, 2018 at 10:03 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> this is as much as I know right now.
>
> The house and start are completely separate.  Even separate switches.  the
> start battery has its own on/off switch But, then the 3 house batteries are
> separated into a off/1/both/2 switch.  two batteries on 2 and one batter on
> 1.  I was thinking the regulator would prioritize the start battery then
> send the current to the house when the start was satisfied.  I was
> wondering if the start battery never got satisfied would the regulator
> never send the current to the house bank?
>
> On 7/16/2018 9:48 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Also depends on which battery is supposed to be the first one charged.
>
> On Mon, Jul 16, 2018 at 9:36 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I don't know what type of setup you have regarding the house and starting
>> battery.  Is it a switch, acr, or echo-charge?  Depending on the answer,
>> yes a failed start battery could affect the entire system.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jul 16, 2018, 8:20 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> well, the battery was showing 12.7 by the time I got it back to the
>>> boat.  It would not start the engine.  I did jump start it and found the
>>> alternator was putting out 14.4 volts.  So I ran out and bought an
>>> interstate starting battery.  I installed that, started the engine and got
>>> 14.4 volts at the battery terminals with the engine running.  Then, I went
>>> sailing!
>>>
>>> Anyway, my question now is, if the starting battery was not taking the
>>> charge, would the alternator just keep trying to charge the starting
>>> battery and never reach a full charge so never send anything to the house?
>>> In essence, the spent battery was the break in the system like a bucket
>>> with a big hole in it?
>>>
>>> On 7/15/2018 8:50 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
>>>
>>> Disconnect for 24 hours and then take the voltage again.
>>>
>>> Josh
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sun, Jul 15, 2018, 8:47 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 12.9 reading with charger off.  It's a smart charger and will slow and
 then stop charge as battery charges.  It is sitting with charger attached
 just reading voltage



 Thanks,
 Danny
  Original message 
 From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/15/18 8:04 AM (GMT-05:00)
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Josh Muckley 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Charging issues

 12.9v on or off the charger?  That's too low if on the charger.  Even
 the smallest trickle chargers put out ~13.5v

 It is possible to have a one of the six cells go bad, reducing the
 battery's appropriate full charge voltage to 10.6 instead of 12.7  the
 charger is dumb and keeps trying to put as much as 14.7 into the battery.
 This extra voltage overcharges the battery and boils off electrolyte.
 Under this condition the battery voltage may never get to 14.7 but it can
 easily get to 12.7.  It will quickly decay and stabilize near 10.6-ish when
 the charger is removed.  This may take a few hours to occur.  If/When a
 load is applied the voltage will drop dramatically and stabilize near
 10.6v.  If this is the case then you need a new battery.

 Josh Muckley
 S/V Sea Hawk
 1989 C&C 37+
 Solomons, MD




 On Sun, Jul 15, 2018, 7:29 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  Hi Rick,
> Thank you for the insight.  The start battery showed just 12.1 when I
> put it on the charger.  I just went out and battery now shows full at 12.9
> volts.
>
> It seems like the charge isn't getting to the batteries.  This is one
> system I haven't dug into yet.  I guess that's going to change...
>
> I think I need to find a diagram somewhere
>
>
>
> Thanks,
> Danny
>
>  Original message 
> From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
> Date: 7/14/18 11:09 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Rick Brass 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Charging issues
>
> Generally, yes, if you are showing about 14 volts when the engine is
> running, the alternator is probably OK.
>
>
>
> When you say the start ba

Re: Stus-List Charging issues

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

this is as much as I know right now.

The house and start are completely separate.  Even separate switches.  
the start battery has its own on/off switch But, then the 3 house 
batteries are separated into a off/1/both/2 switch. two batteries on 2 
and one batter on 1.  I was thinking the regulator would prioritize the 
start battery then send the current to the house when the start was 
satisfied.  I was wondering if the start battery never got satisfied 
would the regulator never send the current to the house bank?



On 7/16/2018 9:48 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:

Also depends on which battery is supposed to be the first one charged.

On Mon, Jul 16, 2018 at 9:36 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I don't know what type of setup you have regarding the house and
starting battery.  Is it a switch, acr, or echo-charge?  Depending
on the answer, yes a failed start battery could affect the entire
system.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Mon, Jul 16, 2018, 8:20 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

well, the battery was showing 12.7 by the time I got it back
to the boat.  It would not start the engine.  I did jump start
it and found the alternator was putting out 14.4 volts.  So I
ran out and bought an interstate starting battery.  I
installed that, started the engine and got 14.4 volts at the
battery terminals with the engine running.  Then, I went sailing!

Anyway, my question now is, if the starting battery was not
taking the charge, would the alternator just keep trying to
charge the starting battery and never reach a full charge so
never send anything to the house?  In essence, the spent
battery was the break in the system like a bucket with a big
hole in it?


On 7/15/2018 8:50 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:

Disconnect for 24 hours and then take the voltage again.

Josh



On Sun, Jul 15, 2018, 8:47 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

12.9 reading with charger off.  It's a smart charger and
will slow and then stop charge as battery charges.  It is
sitting with charger attached just reading voltage



Thanks,
Danny
 Original message 
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 7/15/18 8:04 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Charging issues

12.9v on or off the charger?  That's too low if on the
charger.  Even the smallest trickle chargers put out ~13.5v

It is possible to have a one of the six cells go bad,
reducing the battery's appropriate full charge voltage to
10.6 instead of 12.7  the charger is dumb and keeps
trying to put as much as 14.7 into the battery.  This
extra voltage overcharges the battery and boils off
electrolyte.  Under this condition the battery voltage
may never get to 14.7 but it can easily get to 12.7.  It
will quickly decay and stabilize near 10.6-ish when the
charger is removed.  This may take a few hours to occur. 
If/When a load is applied the voltage will drop
dramatically and stabilize near 10.6v.  If this is the
case then you need a new battery.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Sun, Jul 15, 2018, 7:29 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

 Hi Rick,
Thank you for the insight.  The start battery showed
just 12.1 when I put it on the charger.  I just went
out and battery now shows full at 12.9 volts.

It seems like the charge isn't getting to the
batteries.  This is one system I haven't dug into
yet.  I guess that's going to change...

I think I need to find a diagram somewhere



Thanks,
Danny

 Original message 
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 7/14/18 11:09 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rick Brass mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Charging issues

Generally, yes, if you are showing about 14 volts
when the engine is running, the alternator is
probably OK.

When you say 

Stus-List Fresh water pressure pump

[John McKay via CnC-List]

I need to replace the fresh water pump between the holding tank and the faucets 
on my C&C 33 MK II
I think I need a 2' to 2.5' lift.
Is there any benefit to trying to place the pump closer to the holding tank 
level?
There are a lot of pumps out there from about $30 to $150.
What pumps are people buying these days?
John on Enterprise
Komoka Ont




|  | Virus-free. www.avg.com  |

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Re: Stus-List Charging issues

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Also depends on which battery is supposed to be the first one charged.

On Mon, Jul 16, 2018 at 9:36 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I don't know what type of setup you have regarding the house and starting
> battery.  Is it a switch, acr, or echo-charge?  Depending on the answer,
> yes a failed start battery could affect the entire system.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 16, 2018, 8:20 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> well, the battery was showing 12.7 by the time I got it back to the
>> boat.  It would not start the engine.  I did jump start it and found the
>> alternator was putting out 14.4 volts.  So I ran out and bought an
>> interstate starting battery.  I installed that, started the engine and got
>> 14.4 volts at the battery terminals with the engine running.  Then, I went
>> sailing!
>>
>> Anyway, my question now is, if the starting battery was not taking the
>> charge, would the alternator just keep trying to charge the starting
>> battery and never reach a full charge so never send anything to the house?
>> In essence, the spent battery was the break in the system like a bucket
>> with a big hole in it?
>>
>> On 7/15/2018 8:50 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> Disconnect for 24 hours and then take the voltage again.
>>
>> Josh
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Jul 15, 2018, 8:47 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> 12.9 reading with charger off.  It's a smart charger and will slow and
>>> then stop charge as battery charges.  It is sitting with charger attached
>>> just reading voltage
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Danny
>>>  Original message 
>>> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>> Date: 7/15/18 8:04 AM (GMT-05:00)
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc: Josh Muckley 
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Charging issues
>>>
>>> 12.9v on or off the charger?  That's too low if on the charger.  Even
>>> the smallest trickle chargers put out ~13.5v
>>>
>>> It is possible to have a one of the six cells go bad, reducing the
>>> battery's appropriate full charge voltage to 10.6 instead of 12.7  the
>>> charger is dumb and keeps trying to put as much as 14.7 into the battery.
>>> This extra voltage overcharges the battery and boils off electrolyte.
>>> Under this condition the battery voltage may never get to 14.7 but it can
>>> easily get to 12.7.  It will quickly decay and stabilize near 10.6-ish when
>>> the charger is removed.  This may take a few hours to occur.  If/When a
>>> load is applied the voltage will drop dramatically and stabilize near
>>> 10.6v.  If this is the case then you need a new battery.
>>>
>>> Josh Muckley
>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>> 1989 C&C 37+
>>> Solomons, MD
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sun, Jul 15, 2018, 7:29 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
  Hi Rick,
 Thank you for the insight.  The start battery showed just 12.1 when I
 put it on the charger.  I just went out and battery now shows full at 12.9
 volts.

 It seems like the charge isn't getting to the batteries.  This is one
 system I haven't dug into yet.  I guess that's going to change...

 I think I need to find a diagram somewhere



 Thanks,
 Danny

  Original message 
 From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/14/18 11:09 PM (GMT-05:00)
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Rick Brass 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Charging issues

 Generally, yes, if you are showing about 14 volts when the engine is
 running, the alternator is probably OK.



 When you say the start battery is not charging, is it safe to assume
 that the start battery will not start the engine?



 Under normal circumstances, and depending on the Amp-Hour capacity of
 the start battery, it will probably never get below 95% to 99% state of
 charge. (Unless, of course, you are using it to also power your house
 loads.)



 For example, the 36 HP Universal in my 38 draws 175 amps for about 30
 seconds in starting, or about 1.4 AH. That is about 1.3% discharge on the
 105AH deep cycle battery I use for starting. (And only for starting except
 in an emergency)



 So the start battery is capable of reaching full charge in just a few
 minutes of engine run time, and the full output from the alternator then
 gets directed to the house bank if that is at a lower state of charge. If
 both are fully charged, the current flow just creates heat.



 Check your start battery with a volt meter and both engine and battery
 switch turned off. If you get 12.6 volts or more, everything is probably 
 OK.



 If the start battery won’t start the motor, you probably need a new
 battery.



 Rick Brass

 Washington, NC


>>

Re: Stus-List Stern Ladder Hull Guard-Feet

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

Don’t know what they are called but rubber kitchen type table leg protectors 
work for me.

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com

On Monday, July 16, 2018, Danny Haughey via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hello again, are there any clever ways to protect the transom from the boarding 
ladder feet?  The cane tips I'm currenty using don't really last out in the 
elements.  And with a new paint job I'm looking for something better to use. 
Does anyone have any suggestions. Thanks, Danny mattapoisett, ma 
___ Thanks everyone for supporting 
this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. 
If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- 
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Charging issues

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I don't know what type of setup you have regarding the house and starting
battery.  Is it a switch, acr, or echo-charge?  Depending on the answer,
yes a failed start battery could affect the entire system.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Mon, Jul 16, 2018, 8:20 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> well, the battery was showing 12.7 by the time I got it back to the boat.
> It would not start the engine.  I did jump start it and found the
> alternator was putting out 14.4 volts.  So I ran out and bought an
> interstate starting battery.  I installed that, started the engine and got
> 14.4 volts at the battery terminals with the engine running.  Then, I went
> sailing!
>
> Anyway, my question now is, if the starting battery was not taking the
> charge, would the alternator just keep trying to charge the starting
> battery and never reach a full charge so never send anything to the house?
> In essence, the spent battery was the break in the system like a bucket
> with a big hole in it?
>
> On 7/15/2018 8:50 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Disconnect for 24 hours and then take the voltage again.
>
> Josh
>
>
>
> On Sun, Jul 15, 2018, 8:47 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> 12.9 reading with charger off.  It's a smart charger and will slow and
>> then stop charge as battery charges.  It is sitting with charger attached
>> just reading voltage
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Danny
>>  Original message 
>> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>> Date: 7/15/18 8:04 AM (GMT-05:00)
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Josh Muckley 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Charging issues
>>
>> 12.9v on or off the charger?  That's too low if on the charger.  Even the
>> smallest trickle chargers put out ~13.5v
>>
>> It is possible to have a one of the six cells go bad, reducing the
>> battery's appropriate full charge voltage to 10.6 instead of 12.7  the
>> charger is dumb and keeps trying to put as much as 14.7 into the battery.
>> This extra voltage overcharges the battery and boils off electrolyte.
>> Under this condition the battery voltage may never get to 14.7 but it can
>> easily get to 12.7.  It will quickly decay and stabilize near 10.6-ish when
>> the charger is removed.  This may take a few hours to occur.  If/When a
>> load is applied the voltage will drop dramatically and stabilize near
>> 10.6v.  If this is the case then you need a new battery.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Jul 15, 2018, 7:29 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>>  Hi Rick,
>>> Thank you for the insight.  The start battery showed just 12.1 when I
>>> put it on the charger.  I just went out and battery now shows full at 12.9
>>> volts.
>>>
>>> It seems like the charge isn't getting to the batteries.  This is one
>>> system I haven't dug into yet.  I guess that's going to change...
>>>
>>> I think I need to find a diagram somewhere
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Danny
>>>
>>>  Original message 
>>> From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
>>> Date: 7/14/18 11:09 PM (GMT-05:00)
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc: Rick Brass 
>>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Charging issues
>>>
>>> Generally, yes, if you are showing about 14 volts when the engine is
>>> running, the alternator is probably OK.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> When you say the start battery is not charging, is it safe to assume
>>> that the start battery will not start the engine?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Under normal circumstances, and depending on the Amp-Hour capacity of
>>> the start battery, it will probably never get below 95% to 99% state of
>>> charge. (Unless, of course, you are using it to also power your house
>>> loads.)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> For example, the 36 HP Universal in my 38 draws 175 amps for about 30
>>> seconds in starting, or about 1.4 AH. That is about 1.3% discharge on the
>>> 105AH deep cycle battery I use for starting. (And only for starting except
>>> in an emergency)
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> So the start battery is capable of reaching full charge in just a few
>>> minutes of engine run time, and the full output from the alternator then
>>> gets directed to the house bank if that is at a lower state of charge. If
>>> both are fully charged, the current flow just creates heat.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Check your start battery with a volt meter and both engine and battery
>>> switch turned off. If you get 12.6 volts or more, everything is probably OK.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> If the start battery won’t start the motor, you probably need a new
>>> battery.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Rick Brass
>>>
>>> Washington, NC
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Danny
>>> Haughey via CnC-List
>>> *Sent:* Saturday, July 14, 2018 7:31 PM
>>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> *Cc:* Danny Haughey 
>>> *Subject:* Stus-List Charging issues
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> So my gauge shows 14amps while motoring but

Re: Stus-List 1981 C&C 36' - Fresh Water Tank Replacement

[Brad Crawford via CnC-List]

What make, model, brand, type, style of welder did you use?  Lots of you tube 
videos online, all a little different, just curious as to what worked for you?

 

Thanks,

 

Brad

Dora Pearl

C&C 36

Seattle

 

From: William Hall [mailto:wh...@alum.mit.edu] 
Sent: Sunday, July 15, 2018 7:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Brad Crawford
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1981 C&C 36' - Fresh Water Tank Replacement

 

We had luck with welding. Get the right rod - LLDPE I think it is. Practice a 
little with a heat gun and it turns out great. 

 

Bill - 1985 c&c 37 starfire 

 

On Sun, Jul 15, 2018 at 9:03 PM Brad Crawford via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I discovered that my  port side water tank has a 4” long hairline fracture in 
the outer side wall.  Looking through the archives I see that other  1981 C&C 
36 owners have had the same problem, so I am reaching out to see if welding the 
polyethylene was successful or not, or was a new Kracor or other manufacture 
tank ordered?  

 

Thanks,

 

Brad Crawford

C&C 36

“Dora Pearl”

Seattle

 

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-- 

William D. Hall, Ph.D.
617 620 9078 (c)
wh...@alum.mit.edu

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Stus-List Fwd: replacement swim ladder for 1981 C&C 38 Landfall

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

John,

I just looked over the invoice and some emails to and from White Water Marine.  
  I first called them and then followed up with an email of the measurements I 
had.   See the specs below.I ordered just plain tube steps, as original, 
but they can also add teak or faux-teak step boards on top the tubes.Total 
cost was $330 + $33 shipping.


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> Begin forwarded message:
> 
> From: m...@whitewatermarineinc.com
> Subject: Re: replacement swim ladder for 1981 C&C 38 Landfall
> Date: April 22, 2014 at 9:12:07 AM EDT
> To: dre...@gmail.com
> Cc: sa...@whitewatermarineinc.com
> 
> Paul, I found the original specs for the ladder in the most recent email. We 
> can fabricate that for you. Your cost varies, depending on the type of step 
> you'd like. Give me a call to get it going.  Regards, Mike
> 
>  Mike Klaas / Tom Heering
>  White Water Marine Inc.
>810-987-4837
> 
> 
> Quoting dre...@gmail.com:
> 
>> Hi,
>> 
>> I have more details on the swim ladder for the C&C 38 Landfall.
>> 
>> Stern ladder
>> 1" ss tube
>> 14" wide
>> 43" long
>> Rung spacing 14" - lowest rung and sides one piece.
>> Top and middle rung welded in perpendicular
>> 
>> 1st rung standoff? 7.25 to inside of tube. One piece bent tube standoff
>> 
>> Top standoff 4" + .5" pad to inside of tube. 2 pieces. Top rung of ladder 
>> passes through close fitting tube for hinge.
>> 
>> -
>> I hope this info is a bit more useful.
>> 
> 
> 
> Mike Klaas / Tom Heering
> White Water Marine Inc.
>   810-987-4837

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Re: Stus-List Stern Ladder Hull Guard-Feet

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I use a quarter.

On Mon, Jul 16, 2018 at 9:11 AM, Don Wagner via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I use the rubber cane (or chair) tips as well, but before installing them,
> I insert a fender washer of the same size.
> The fender washer protects the rudder from the sharp edges on the feet of
> the ladder. The rubber tips seem to last longer with the fender washer
> protection.
>
> You might try that trick.
>
> Don Wagner
> Der Baron
> C&C 41 CB
>
> -Original Message- From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, July 16, 2018 8:51 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Danny Haughey
> Subject: Stus-List Stern Ladder Hull Guard-Feet
>
> Hello again,
>
> are there any clever ways to protect the transom from the boarding
> ladder feet?  The cane tips I'm currenty using don't really last out in
> the elements.  And with a new paint job I'm looking for something better
> to use.
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Danny
> mattapoisett, ma
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Stern Ladder Hull Guard-Feet

[Don Wagner via CnC-List]

I use the rubber cane (or chair) tips as well, but before installing them, I 
insert a fender washer of the same size.
The fender washer protects the rudder from the sharp edges on the feet of 
the ladder. The rubber tips seem to last longer with the fender washer 
protection.


You might try that trick.

Don Wagner
Der Baron
C&C 41 CB

-Original Message- 
From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List

Sent: Monday, July 16, 2018 8:51 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey
Subject: Stus-List Stern Ladder Hull Guard-Feet

Hello again,

are there any clever ways to protect the transom from the boarding
ladder feet?  The cane tips I'm currenty using don't really last out in
the elements.  And with a new paint job I'm looking for something better
to use.

Does anyone have any suggestions.

Thanks,

Danny
mattapoisett, ma


___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List looking for a landfall 38 boarding ladder with the stern pulpit.

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

John,

I was a similar situation looking for a replacement Landfall 38 swim ladder.  I 
kindly received pictures and measurements from some list LF38 owners, and 
received a few quotes for fabrication. When I called White Water Marine for a 
quote, they told me that they had the original specs for the LF38 ladder as 
they originally fabricated them.  To top that, the price was much less than the 
other quotes I received.  I was supper impressed and extremely pleased with the 
final product. I’m sure they built the stern pushpit too.

See my blog post about it.  

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewLadder



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Jul 15, 2018, at 7:29 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
>> ] On Behalf Of John via
>> CnC-List
>> Sent: Saturday, July 14, 2018 12:44 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> Cc: John mailto:johnrogerswri...@gmail.com>>
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List looking for a landfall 38 boarding ladder with the
>> stern pulpit.
>> 
>> Hello everyone
>> 
>> I need to find a boarding ladder and section of the stern pulpit, it was
>> removed by previous owner. See picture. 
>> 
>> Thanks

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List Stern Ladder Hull Guard-Feet

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hello again,

are there any clever ways to protect the transom from the boarding 
ladder feet?  The cane tips I'm currenty using don't really last out in 
the elements.  And with a new paint job I'm looking for something better 
to use.


Does anyone have any suggestions.

Thanks,

Danny
mattapoisett, ma


___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 1981 C&C 36' - Fresh Water Tank Replacement

[detroito91 via CnC-List]

Took my tank to Virginia tank service and they welded the 12" crack while I 
waited. $75.00 later I was on my way to the boat to re-install and have never 
looked backJim Schwartz SEA YA!38 ofWashington nc 


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Brad Crawford via CnC-List 
 Date: 7/15/18  9:00 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Brad Crawford  Subject: 
Stus-List 1981 C&C 36' - Fresh Water Tank Replacement 
I discovered that my  port side water tank has a 4” long hairline fracture in 
the outer side wall.  Looking through the archives I see that other  1981 C&C 
36 owners have had the same problem, so I am reaching out to see if welding the 
polyethylene was successful or not, or was a new Kracor or other manufacture 
tank ordered?   Thanks, Brad CrawfordC&C 36“Dora Pearl”Seattle ___

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Re: Stus-List Charging issues

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

well, the battery was showing 12.7 by the time I got it back to the 
boat.  It would not start the engine.  I did jump start it and found the 
alternator was putting out 14.4 volts.  So I ran out and bought an 
interstate starting battery.  I installed that, started the engine and 
got 14.4 volts at the battery terminals with the engine running.  Then, 
I went sailing!


Anyway, my question now is, if the starting battery was not taking the 
charge, would the alternator just keep trying to charge the starting 
battery and never reach a full charge so never send anything to the 
house?  In essence, the spent battery was the break in the system like a 
bucket with a big hole in it?



On 7/15/2018 8:50 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:

Disconnect for 24 hours and then take the voltage again.

Josh



On Sun, Jul 15, 2018, 8:47 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


12.9 reading with charger off.  It's a smart charger and will slow
and then stop charge as battery charges.  It is sitting with
charger attached just reading voltage



Thanks,
Danny
 Original message 
From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 7/15/18 8:04 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Charging issues

12.9v on or off the charger?  That's too low if on the charger. 
Even the smallest trickle chargers put out ~13.5v

It is possible to have a one of the six cells go bad, reducing the
battery's appropriate full charge voltage to 10.6 instead of 12.7
 the charger is dumb and keeps trying to put as much as 14.7 into
the battery.  This extra voltage overcharges the battery and boils
off electrolyte.  Under this condition the battery voltage may
never get to 14.7 but it can easily get to 12.7.  It will quickly
decay and stabilize near 10.6-ish when the charger is removed. 
This may take a few hours to occur.  If/When a load is applied the
voltage will drop dramatically and stabilize near 10.6v.  If this
is the case then you need a new battery.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Sun, Jul 15, 2018, 7:29 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

 Hi Rick,
Thank you for the insight.  The start battery showed just 12.1
when I put it on the charger.  I just went out and battery now
shows full at 12.9 volts.

It seems like the charge isn't getting to the batteries.  This
is one system I haven't dug into yet.  I guess that's going to
change...

I think I need to find a diagram somewhere



Thanks,
Danny

 Original message 
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 7/14/18 11:09 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rick Brass mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Charging issues

Generally, yes, if you are showing about 14 volts when the
engine is running, the alternator is probably OK.

When you say the start battery is not charging, is it safe to
assume that the start battery will not start the engine?

Under normal circumstances, and depending on the Amp-Hour
capacity of the start battery, it will probably never get
below 95% to 99% state of charge. (Unless, of course, you are
using it to also power your house loads.)

For example, the 36 HP Universal in my 38 draws 175 amps for
about 30 seconds in starting, or about 1.4 AH. That is about
1.3% discharge on the 105AH deep cycle battery I use for
starting. (And only for starting except in an emergency)

So the start battery is capable of reaching full charge in
just a few minutes of engine run time, and the full output
from the alternator then gets directed to the house bank if
that is at a lower state of charge. If both are fully charged,
the current flow just creates heat.

Check your start battery with a volt meter and both engine and
battery switch turned off. If you get 12.6 volts or more,
everything is probably OK.

If the start battery won’t start the motor, you probably need
a new battery.

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
] *On Behalf Of *Danny
Haughey via CnC-List
*Sent:* Saturday, July 14, 2018 7:31 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* Danny Haughey mailto:djhaug...@juno.com>>
*Subject:* Stus-List Charging issues

So my gauge shows 14amps while motoring but after