Re: Stus-List C&C 33-2: PYI shaft seal

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Sorry guys, I forgot to include the sailor sams shaft seal link.

https://www.sailorsams.com/lasdrop-shaft-seals


Josh

On Thu, Oct 18, 2018, 9:14 PM Josh Muckley  wrote:

> I have a Max-Prop, a R&D coupling isolator, R&D engine mounts, and I have
> a PYI shaft seal - all the same company.  I generally like the engineering
> and customer support and like the shaft seal fine.  That being said, I
> would suggest taking a look at the Sailor Sam's shaft seal.  As the vendor
> described to me at the boat show you can evidently replace the "packing"
> (carbon rings) with it installed and in the water.  Some of the models do
> not require the tension of a rubber bellows but rather have a physical
> metal spring that maintains pressure.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Thu, Oct 18, 2018, 8:49 PM Adrian Humphreys via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Any 33-2 owners with the PYI dripless shaft seal?
>>
>> Will it fit?
>>
>> We're looking at overhauling the packing gland and considering replacing
>> it altogether.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Adrian Humphreys
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List C&C 33-2: PYI shaft seal

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

I agree with Josh, my PYI  would be perfect if it could be changed without haul 
out!  I am trying to imagine the circus in the rear stateroom of my 37+ if you 
tried this change in the water! 
The failure rate of this PYI system seems to be nearly negligible, the pressure 
on the mating surfaces is so minimal!  I wonder if a temporary perfectly flat 
shim of carbon with ears (or other slippery material)could be quickly installed 
that would replace the pressure of the plates against each other…..
Failure of the bellows, or the set keys, may well eliminate mechanical 
propulsion if you are off shore. 
In shore you would need most of that bilge pump capacity you had invested in.
I haven’ seen the “Sailor Sam’s” but I will watch for it.
I am also a big fan of this company so I am not running down their products, 
but cognizant of limitations of the system.
Love the Max-Prop thus far.
Cheers
Rick Rohwer
Paikea 37+
Tacoma, WA

> On Oct 18, 2018, at 6:14 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have a Max-Prop, a R&D coupling isolator, R&D engine mounts, and I have a 
> PYI shaft seal - all the same company.  I generally like the engineering and 
> customer support and like the shaft seal fine.  That being said, I would 
> suggest taking a look at the Sailor Sam's shaft seal.  As the vendor 
> described to me at the boat show you can evidently replace the "packing" 
> (carbon rings) with it installed and in the water.  Some of the models do not 
> require the tension of a rubber bellows but rather have a physical metal 
> spring that maintains pressure.
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> On Thu, Oct 18, 2018, 8:49 PM Adrian Humphreys via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Any 33-2 owners with the PYI dripless shaft seal?
> 
> Will it fit?
> 
> We're looking at overhauling the packing gland and considering replacing it 
> altogether.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Adrian Humphreys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List C&C 33-2: PYI shaft seal

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I don’t have a 33, so I cannot comment on how it would fit. But I installed a 
PYI dripless shaft seal on my boat 4 years ago and I am happy with it.

As Nathan did, I replaced everything (shaft seal, shaft, coupling and the 
cutless bearing). You can do just the seal, but if you have to remove the shaft 
in the first place, it makes sense to replace it with new. You won’t need to do 
it for the next 7-15 years.

The standard procedure is to replace the bellows every 6-7 years, but from what 
I hear and see, very few people do that. I would suggest inspecting the bellows 
every so often and replace it when you think is the right time. I think that 
that period was shortened a few years back (legal issues?). The pro version has 
a longer maintenance period.

I would strongly recommend an extra $30 for the retention ring.. You put it 
right behind the SS ring that forms the mechanical seal. This is the thing that 
would keep your shaft in the boat if, by any chance, the coupling fails.

The breathing hose (the 3/8 one mentioned below) needs to go above the water 
line. In my experience, it would spill water, sooner or later. If you need to 
move forward and reverse abruptly and with some revs, the water will go up that 
hose and eventually would spill. One option is to install a bottle that would 
capture the spilled water (and empty it on occasion). I tried it for a while, 
but it wasn’t a good solution. In my case, I plumbed the breather hose into the 
kitchen sink’s drain. This way, any water that wants to spill out goes back 
into the lake and the bellows can still breathe through the sink.

The installation is quite involving ( a lot of parts to be matched and 
replaced), but generally straight forward.

Overall, I have a completely dry bilge. I did not use the bilge pump at all 
this season.

NB. There is yet another company making a similar product - Lasdrop.

Good luck

Marek

1994 C270 ”Legato”
Ottawa, ON

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Nathan Post via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2018 21:27
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Nathan Post 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 33-2: PYI shaft seal

Not sure regarding the 33-2 but I was able to just fit a PYI shaft seal in my 
34.  It took perhaps an inch or so more space along the shaft than the original 
stuffing box.  Once installed and assembled with the right pressure on the 
bellows I have an inch or so between the PYI and the end of the coupling.

I installed it this summer after buying the boat because the stuffing box was 
in rough shape so that needed replacing anyway - it was brutal getting the 
coupling off of the shaft (I had to cut it off with a grinder and then have a 
new one fit and faced to the shaft - which apparently is standard practice 
although I didn’t know that when I started the project).  So it isn’t a small 
job in the end.  Also, there was just nearly enough room so I had to assemble 
the PYI loosely with the shaft just poking through it, then put the new 
coupling in place and tap the shaft into coupling (one person outside tapping, 
the other inside keeping it aligned and watching for the dimple when it is 
slide in far enough).  I got a split coupling (it is actually only partially 
split) which helps a lot but it still take hammering on it to get it through.  
Definitely recommend the split coupling though and I am hopeful that I might 
have more luck pressing it off next time it comes to that.

The final task was running a 3/8” hose from the PYI up 2 ft above water line.  
You want to keep it as centered as possible so I went to the and then up 
between the cockpit and the transom inside the hull and secured it to one of 
the air vents with a few zip ties.

Doesn’t leak or get hot so I am happy with it overall.  But it was a big 
project and the bellows are supposed to be replaced ever 5-6 years I think.  I 
would definitely take a look if there is an option that doesn’t require 
disassembly of the shaft.

Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
C&C 34
Malden, MA



On Oct 18, 2018, at 9:14 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I have a Max-Prop, a R&D coupling isolator, R&D engine mounts, and I have a PYI 
shaft seal - all the same company.  I generally like the engineering and 
customer support and like the shaft seal fine.  That being said, I would 
suggest taking a look at the Sailor Sam's shaft seal.  As the vendor described 
to me at the boat show you can evidently replace the "packing" (carbon rings) 
with it installed and in the water.  Some of the models do not require the 
tension of a rubber bellows but rather have a physical metal spring that 
maintains pressure.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Thu, Oct 18, 2018, 8:49 PM Adrian Humphreys via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Any 33-2 owners with the PYI dripless shaft seal?

Will it fit?

We're looking at overhauling the packing gland and considering replacing it 
altogether.

Thanks,

Adrian Humphreys

Re: Stus-List C&C 33-2: PYI shaft seal

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Yes, I did it 3 years ago. The first project was to replace the leaking 
transmission seal so I had to remove the coupling. I ended up replacing 
everything: seal, new split coupling by Buck Algonquin, new shaft and a PYI 
dripless.

 It is pretty tight but it fits, I think the new coupling is a bit shorter than 
the original.

If I had to do it again, I might just replace the packing with the last 
synthetic gland that is supposed to be more durable and pretty much dripless.

Good luck!

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 33 mkII
New Richmond, Qc.
Canada 

Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 18 oct. 2018 à 20:49, Adrian Humphreys via CnC-List 
>  a écrit :
> 
> Any 33-2 owners with the PYI dripless shaft seal?
> 
> Will it fit?
> 
> We're looking at overhauling the packing gland and considering replacing it 
> altogether.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Adrian Humphreys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C&C 33-2: PYI shaft seal

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Not sure regarding the 33-2 but I was able to just fit a PYI shaft seal in my 
34.  It took perhaps an inch or so more space along the shaft than the original 
stuffing box.  Once installed and assembled with the right pressure on the 
bellows I have an inch or so between the PYI and the end of the coupling.  

I installed it this summer after buying the boat because the stuffing box was 
in rough shape so that needed replacing anyway - it was brutal getting the 
coupling off of the shaft (I had to cut it off with a grinder and then have a 
new one fit and faced to the shaft - which apparently is standard practice 
although I didn’t know that when I started the project).  So it isn’t a small 
job in the end.  Also, there was just nearly enough room so I had to assemble 
the PYI loosely with the shaft just poking through it, then put the new 
coupling in place and tap the shaft into coupling (one person outside tapping, 
the other inside keeping it aligned and watching for the dimple when it is 
slide in far enough).  I got a split coupling (it is actually only partially 
split) which helps a lot but it still take hammering on it to get it through.  
Definitely recommend the split coupling though and I am hopeful that I might 
have more luck pressing it off next time it comes to that.

The final task was running a 3/8” hose from the PYI up 2 ft above water line.  
You want to keep it as centered as possible so I went to the and then up 
between the cockpit and the transom inside the hull and secured it to one of 
the air vents with a few zip ties.  

Doesn’t leak or get hot so I am happy with it overall.  But it was a big 
project and the bellows are supposed to be replaced ever 5-6 years I think.  I 
would definitely take a look if there is an option that doesn’t require 
disassembly of the shaft.

Nathan Post
S/V Wisper 
C&C 34
Malden, MA


> On Oct 18, 2018, at 9:14 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I have a Max-Prop, a R&D coupling isolator, R&D engine mounts, and I have a 
> PYI shaft seal - all the same company.  I generally like the engineering and 
> customer support and like the shaft seal fine.  That being said, I would 
> suggest taking a look at the Sailor Sam's shaft seal.  As the vendor 
> described to me at the boat show you can evidently replace the "packing" 
> (carbon rings) with it installed and in the water.  Some of the models do not 
> require the tension of a rubber bellows but rather have a physical metal 
> spring that maintains pressure.
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
> On Thu, Oct 18, 2018, 8:49 PM Adrian Humphreys via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Any 33-2 owners with the PYI dripless shaft seal?
> 
> Will it fit?
> 
> We're looking at overhauling the packing gland and considering replacing it 
> altogether.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Adrian Humphreys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List C&C 33-2: PYI shaft seal

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Have one on a 35-3, no problem getting it to fit.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2018-10-18 9:48 PM, Adrian Humphreys via CnC-List wrote:
> Any 33-2 owners with the PYI dripless shaft seal?
>
> Will it fit?
>
> We're looking at overhauling the packing gland and considering replacing it 
> altogether.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Adrian Humphreys
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> .
>

___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C&C 33-2: PYI shaft seal

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I have a Max-Prop, a R&D coupling isolator, R&D engine mounts, and I have a
PYI shaft seal - all the same company.  I generally like the engineering
and customer support and like the shaft seal fine.  That being said, I
would suggest taking a look at the Sailor Sam's shaft seal.  As the vendor
described to me at the boat show you can evidently replace the "packing"
(carbon rings) with it installed and in the water.  Some of the models do
not require the tension of a rubber bellows but rather have a physical
metal spring that maintains pressure.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Thu, Oct 18, 2018, 8:49 PM Adrian Humphreys via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Any 33-2 owners with the PYI dripless shaft seal?
>
> Will it fit?
>
> We're looking at overhauling the packing gland and considering replacing
> it altogether.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Adrian Humphreys
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List C&C 33-2: PYI shaft seal

[Adrian Humphreys via CnC-List]

Any 33-2 owners with the PYI dripless shaft seal?

Will it fit?

We're looking at overhauling the packing gland and considering replacing it 
altogether.

Thanks,

Adrian Humphreys





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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Plasteak sole

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Not sure what you're saying.  PlasTeak is 1/16 inch thick.  It's like
Linoleum.  Cut to fit and glue it down.

If you want to get fancy with borders and stuff, it's a bit more work but
no different than installing Linoleum floor.

Dennis C.

On Thu, Oct 18, 2018 at 11:18 AM Chris Graham  wrote:

> I’d love to try that on the cabin sole. Wondering if I’d sacrifice what
> precious little headroom I have below decks
>
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone 
>
> On Thursday, October 18, 2018, 11:41 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I did a deck hatch on a Grand Banks with PlasDek (the exterior version of
> PlasTeak).
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsV2NVZ1hmaGJ6cEU
>
> Good product.  There are others.
>
> Dennis C.
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Plasteak sole

[Chris Graham via CnC-List]

I’d love to try that on the cabin sole. Wondering if I’d sacrifice what 
precious little headroom I have below decks


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Thursday, October 18, 2018, 11:41 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I did a deck hatch on a Grand Banks with PlasDek (the exterior version of 
PlasTeak).
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsV2NVZ1hmaGJ6cEU

Good product.  There are others.
Dennis C.
On Thu, Oct 18, 2018 at 10:34 AM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
 wrote:


We did the sole on our first C&C, Jubilee, with Plasteak. 




https://www.plasteak.com/plasteak-recycled-plastic-product/teak-holly-flooring-matte-finish





  My first mate did all the research, templating, etc..  I helped with the 
install.  It came out looking very nice.




https://flic.kr/p/29gfKza






Tom BuscagliaS/V Alera 1990 C&C 37+/40Vashon WAP 206.463.9200C 305.409.3660

On Oct 18, 2018, at 7:53 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:


Message: 1
Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2018 10:10:29 -0400
From: cenel...@aol.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Galley countertop
Message-ID: <16687836d5e-1ec2-c...@webjas-vae151.srv.aolmail.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Along these lines, has anyone on the list done something similar (glued 
laminate?) to refinish a cabin sole? If so, what comments about the job do you 
have.


Thanks,


Charlie Nelson


cenel...@aol.com



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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Plasteak sole

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I did a deck hatch on a Grand Banks with PlasDek (the exterior version of
PlasTeak).

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsV2NVZ1hmaGJ6cEU

Good product.  There are others.

Dennis C.

On Thu, Oct 18, 2018 at 10:34 AM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We did the sole on our first C&C, Jubilee, with Plasteak.
>
>
>
> https://www.plasteak.com/plasteak-recycled-plastic-product/teak-holly-flooring-matte-finish
>
>
>   My first mate did all the research, templating, etc..  I helped with the
> install.  It came out looking very nice.
>
>
> https://flic.kr/p/29gfKza
>
>
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
>
>
> On Oct 18, 2018, at 7:53 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2018 10:10:29 -0400
> From: cenel...@aol.com
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Galley countertop
> Message-ID: <16687836d5e-1ec2-c...@webjas-vae151.srv.aolmail.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Along these lines, has anyone on the list done something similar (glued
> laminate?) to refinish a cabin sole? If so, what comments about the job do
> you have.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Charlie Nelson
>
>
> cenel...@aol.com
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Plasteak sole

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

We did the sole on our first C&C, Jubilee, with Plasteak. 

https://www.plasteak.com/plasteak-recycled-plastic-product/teak-holly-flooring-matte-finish


  My first mate did all the research, templating, etc..  I helped with the 
install.  It came out looking very nice.

https://flic.kr/p/29gfKza


Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660


> On Oct 18, 2018, at 7:53 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 18 Oct 2018 10:10:29 -0400
> From: cenel...@aol.com
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Galley countertop
> Message-ID: <16687836d5e-1ec2-c...@webjas-vae151.srv.aolmail.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Along these lines, has anyone on the list done something similar (glued 
> laminate?) to refinish a cabin sole? If so, what comments about the job do 
> you have.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Charlie Nelson
> 
> 
> cenel...@aol.com
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Manual bilge

[Chris Graham via CnC-List]

 Absolutely!!!


On Thursday, October 18, 2018, 10:45:20 AM EDT, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 
The other help for the Whale is to use it! I found after many years of non-use 
(I use the small electric pump to empty the bilge) the pump and diaphragms had 
dried out. Replaced it and use it every few weeks, just to keep everything 
flexible inside. Can’t give you a long-term success story because the pump is 
only a few years old.

Gary

  

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2018 9:12 AM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Manual bilge

  

Finding a plastic pump with matching bolt pattern is the challenge.  I think 
there are a few.  There's also the issue of freeze protecting a plastic pump 
which may or may not be an issue.

  

Yes, they are expensive but a Whale Gusher may just save you and your boat.

  

BTW, I routinely flush my Gusher with dock water and leave it with dock water 
in it as opposed to leaving salt or brackish water in it for long periods.

  

Dennis C. 

  

On Thu, Oct 18, 2018 at 7:56 AM Chris Graham via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Easier just to replace the unit? Are they now using composites or still using 
corrosive alloys?? Seems silly not to use composites in this day an age 
particularly around salt water. 

  

Chris 


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone

On Thursday, October 18, 2018, 8:51 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 wrote:


I'll ditto the comments about the alloy corrosion in Whale Gushers.  I've 
replaced the one on Touche' twice in 19 years.  Both times the sealing surface 
for the flapper style check valves were corroded.

  

The last time I disassembled the new pump prior to installation, coated all the 
alloy surfaces with TefGel, reassembled and then installed it.

  

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

  

On Wed, Oct 17, 2018 at 3:54 PM Chris Graham via CnC-List 
 wrote:


The diaphragm on the manual bilge pump in the cockpit seems to be compromised. 
Would one try to find a new diaphragm to replace it or install a better system 
in the lazarette, such as a whale or something similar? 

Do they even make replacement diaphragms for a 1978 26’?

  

Chris 
Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone

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Re: Stus-List Manual bilge

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Agreed.  I ran into the same issue.

From: Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2018 10:44 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Gary Nylander 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Manual bilge

The other help for the Whale is to use it! I found after many years of non-use 
(I use the small electric pump to empty the bilge) the pump and diaphragms had 
dried out. Replaced it and use it every few weeks, just to keep everything 
flexible inside. Can’t give you a long-term success story because the pump is 
only a few years old.

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2018 9:12 AM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Manual bilge

 

Finding a plastic pump with matching bolt pattern is the challenge.  I think 
there are a few.  There's also the issue of freeze protecting a plastic pump 
which may or may not be an issue.

 

Yes, they are expensive but a Whale Gusher may just save you and your boat.

 

BTW, I routinely flush my Gusher with dock water and leave it with dock water 
in it as opposed to leaving salt or brackish water in it for long periods.

 

Dennis C. 

 

On Thu, Oct 18, 2018 at 7:56 AM Chris Graham via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  Easier just to replace the unit? Are they now using composites or still using 
corrosive alloys?? Seems silly not to use composites in this day an age 
particularly around salt water. 

   

  Chris 


  Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone

  On Thursday, October 18, 2018, 8:51 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I'll ditto the comments about the alloy corrosion in Whale Gushers.  I've 
replaced the one on Touche' twice in 19 years.  Both times the sealing surface 
for the flapper style check valves were corroded.

 

The last time I disassembled the new pump prior to installation, coated all 
the alloy surfaces with TefGel, reassembled and then installed it.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Wed, Oct 17, 2018 at 3:54 PM Chris Graham via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  The diaphragm on the manual bilge pump in the cockpit seems to be 
compromised. Would one try to find a new diaphragm to replace it or install a 
better system in the lazarette, such as a whale or something similar? 

  Do they even make replacement diaphragms for a 1978 26’?

   

  Chris 
  Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone

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Re: Stus-List Manual bilge

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

The other help for the Whale is to use it! I found after many years of non-use 
(I use the small electric pump to empty the bilge) the pump and diaphragms had 
dried out. Replaced it and use it every few weeks, just to keep everything 
flexible inside. Can’t give you a long-term success story because the pump is 
only a few years old.

Gary

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2018 9:12 AM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Manual bilge

 

Finding a plastic pump with matching bolt pattern is the challenge.  I think 
there are a few.  There's also the issue of freeze protecting a plastic pump 
which may or may not be an issue.

 

Yes, they are expensive but a Whale Gusher may just save you and your boat.

 

BTW, I routinely flush my Gusher with dock water and leave it with dock water 
in it as opposed to leaving salt or brackish water in it for long periods.

 

Dennis C. 

 

On Thu, Oct 18, 2018 at 7:56 AM Chris Graham via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Easier just to replace the unit? Are they now using composites or still using 
corrosive alloys?? Seems silly not to use composites in this day an age 
particularly around salt water. 

 

Chris 


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone  

On Thursday, October 18, 2018, 8:51 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I'll ditto the comments about the alloy corrosion in Whale Gushers.  I've 
replaced the one on Touche' twice in 19 years.  Both times the sealing surface 
for the flapper style check valves were corroded.

 

The last time I disassembled the new pump prior to installation, coated all the 
alloy surfaces with TefGel, reassembled and then installed it.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Wed, Oct 17, 2018 at 3:54 PM Chris Graham via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

The diaphragm on the manual bilge pump in the cockpit seems to be compromised. 
Would one try to find a new diaphragm to replace it or install a better system 
in the lazarette, such as a whale or something similar? 

Do they even make replacement diaphragms for a 1978 26’?

 

Chris 
Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone  

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Re: Stus-List Manual bilge

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

Take it out and take it apart. Mine, like Dave’s was corroded so badly that 
replacement was the only answer.

 

Gary

1980 30-1

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Chris Graham via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2018 5:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chris Graham 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Manual bilge

 

Thanks Dave, any idea if the stock pump is repairable? I’m fine with it if it is


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone  

On Wednesday, October 17, 2018, 5:16 PM, Dave. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I have had to replace my manual whale gusher pumps twice over the years. My 
problem was not the diaphragm but the metal itself. I can’t remember for sure 
but I think the housing is aluminum but in any case the salt water erodes the 
metal and the seals no longer seal. Only way to tell is to disassemble the pump.

Good luck.

Dave.

SLY 1975 C&C 33

 

Sent from my iPad


On Oct 17, 2018, at 1:53 PM, Chris Graham via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

The diaphragm on the manual bilge pump in the cockpit seems to be compromised. 
Would one try to find a new diaphragm to replace it or install a better system 
in the lazarette, such as a whale or something similar? 

Do they even make replacement diaphragms for a 1978 26’?

 

Chris 
Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone  

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Re: Stus-List Galley countertop

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

Along these lines, has anyone on the list done something similar (glued 
laminate?) to refinish a cabin sole? If so, what comments about the job do you 
have.


Thanks,


Charlie Nelson


cenel...@aol.com




-Original Message-
From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Danny Haughey 
Sent: Thu, Oct 18, 2018 6:07 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Galley countertop



 David, 
Three counters on my boat are Formica.  Its a good product.  I had my first 
experience with it over last winter.  I applied it to the marine plywood that I 
used to make the settee fronts in the main salon.   You saw them on Sunday.  
Not very difficult at all.  It is a bit unforgiving as, once the two pieces 
meet there is no adjustment.  Usually, you have to overhang the edges and trim 
back so it's flush.  That gives you wiggle room.  Iss work with out again 
without hesitation and I have the roller you can borrow. 






Thanks, 
Danny




 Original message 
From: David via CnC-List  
Date: 10/17/18  5:59 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: CNC CNC  
Cc: David  
Subject: Stus-List Galley countertop 



Love my 1981 40, but I am so tired of the teak countertops in the galley. Has 
anybody laid on top of the teak a formica like substance to  lighten up the 
galley?



>From my Android



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Re: Stus-List Whale foot pump for icebox

[David via CnC-List]

IMHO...there is enough stuff that can get into the bilge without adding one 
more, potentially gross, variable which can cause hard to get rid of odors.

I configured my foot pump so it can pump fresh water, salt water, or icebox 
water into the sink.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Matthew L. Wolford 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2018 9:27 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Whale foot pump for icebox

Speaking of Whale pumps, a lot of C&Cs came equipped with a Whale foot pump 
attached to the drain hose for the icebox.  The pump drains the icebox water to 
the galley sink instead of the bilge.  On my 34, we disconnected the pump and 
just ran the hose to the bilge.  A prior owner did the same thing on my 42.  
I’ve wondered why C&C decided to make the icebox drain more complicated.  Was 
it to keep certain things (like milk, for example) out of the bilge, or was 
there some other reason?



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Re: Stus-List Galley countertop

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

David,

For that little galley shelf, the laminate was glued on then trimmed with a
router with laminate blade.

Since you are leaving the fiddles, yes, a template is a must.  I made
templates of the aft and outboard bulkheads in Touche's head.  It took a
while to get the templates exactly right.  Once I cut the laminate I dry
fit it and made darn sure it was right.  The laminate isn't terrible
expensive so a do over won't break the bank.

Critical for you is getting a clean edge since it will be visible.
Laminate is prone to chipping when you cut it.  You'll need a good laminate
blade for your saw.  If you're using a jig saw, laminate blades are "down
cutting".  Suggest you research cutting laminate.  Maybe some YouTube
videos?

I'm assuming your fiddles are angled slightly outward.  If the laminate is
cut vertically, you will have a small gap which will collect dirt.  You'll
need to consider how to fill that.  White silicone?  Varnish, if your
fiddles are varnished, whatever.  You could cut the laminate ever so
slightly big then sand the edges at an angle to get an exact fit.  That
sounds like a bit of work.  I'd use a flat hand sander if I did that.

How difficult would removing the fiddles be?  Are we talking screwing up a
nice coat of varnish, etc.?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Oct 18, 2018 at 8:08 AM David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Fred, Danny and Dennis.  Thanks for the pics and suggestions.  Install
> pretty straightforward?  I am not removing fiddles so an accurate template
> is a must.  Any gremlins to look out for?  This is a once and done kinda
> thing.  Dont want to muck it up.
>
> *David F. Risch, J. D.*
>
> *Gulf Stream Associates, LLC*
>
>
> *(401) 419-4650 *
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Frederick G
> Street via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, October 18, 2018 8:52 AM
> *To:* David via CnC-List
> *Cc:* Frederick G Street
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Galley countertop
>
> For my boat (1979 Landfall 38), the Wilsonart color “Putty” (1503) was a
> perfect match.  Your mileage may vary…
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
> On Oct 18, 2018, at 7:47 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Applying laminate surface to your countertops should be fairly
> straightforward.  Here's a link to a galley shelf I installed on Touche':
>
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/galley_shelf/index.htm
>
> I also added laminate to the aft bulkhead and outboard bulkhead in Touche'
> both to lighten it up visually and to provide a more water resistant
> surface.  Here's a link:
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsQk9CUjEzOGJiY3M
>
> Both bulkheads were teak.
>
> I found that Wilsonart Frosty White countertop laminate from Lowes matched
> the existing countertops in Touche' closely.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
>
> 
>  Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> 
> <#m_4259670193650874458_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Whale foot pump for icebox

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Speaking of Whale pumps, a lot of C&Cs came equipped with a Whale foot pump 
attached to the drain hose for the icebox.  The pump drains the icebox water to 
the galley sink instead of the bilge.  On my 34, we disconnected the pump and 
just ran the hose to the bilge.  A prior owner did the same thing on my 42.  
I’ve wondered why C&C decided to make the icebox drain more complicated.  Was 
it to keep certain things (like milk, for example) out of the bilge, or was 
there some other reason?


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Re: Stus-List Manual bilge

[Chris Graham via CnC-List]

Thanks for the link Neil!!Chris 


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Thursday, October 18, 2018, 9:14 AM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
 wrote:

https://www.whalepumps.com/marine/product.aspx?Category_ID=10009&Product_ID=10006&FriendlyID=Double-Acting-Mk-5
 
 Neil Gallagher
 Weatherly, 35-1
 Glen Cove, NY
 
 
 On 10/18/2018 8:56 AM, Chris Graham via CnC-List wrote:
  
 Easier just to replace the unit? Are they now using composites or still using 
corrosive alloys?? Seems silly not to use composites in this day an age 
particularly around salt water.  
  Chris 
 
 
 Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone
 
 
On Thursday, October 18, 2018, 8:51 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
   I'll ditto the comments about the alloy corrosion in Whale Gushers.  I've 
replaced the one on Touche' twice in 19 years.  Both times the sealing surface 
for the flapper style check valves were corroded. 
  The last time I disassembled the new pump prior to installation, coated all 
the alloy surfaces with TefGel, reassembled and then installed it. 
  Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA  
   On Wed, Oct 17, 2018 at 3:54 PM Chris Graham via CnC-List 
 wrote:
  
  The diaphragm on the manual bilge pump in the cockpit seems to be 
compromised. Would one try to find a new diaphragm to replace it or install a 
better system in the lazarette, such as a whale or something similar? 
 
 Do they even make replacement diaphragms for a 1978 26’? 
  Chris 
 Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Manual bilge

[Chris Graham via CnC-List]

Great tip!! Thank you Dennis. Got some projects for the spring :) Chris


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Thursday, October 18, 2018, 9:11 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Finding a plastic pump with matching bolt pattern is the challenge.  I think 
there are a few.  There's also the issue of freeze protecting a plastic pump 
which may or may not be an issue.
Yes, they are expensive but a Whale Gusher may just save you and your boat.
BTW, I routinely flush my Gusher with dock water and leave it with dock water 
in it as opposed to leaving salt or brackish water in it for long periods.
Dennis C. 
On Thu, Oct 18, 2018 at 7:56 AM Chris Graham via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Easier just to replace the unit? Are they now using composites or still using 
corrosive alloys?? Seems silly not to use composites in this day an age 
particularly around salt water. 
Chris 


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Thursday, October 18, 2018, 8:51 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I'll ditto the comments about the alloy corrosion in Whale Gushers.  I've 
replaced the one on Touche' twice in 19 years.  Both times the sealing surface 
for the flapper style check valves were corroded.
The last time I disassembled the new pump prior to installation, coated all the 
alloy surfaces with TefGel, reassembled and then installed it.
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
On Wed, Oct 17, 2018 at 3:54 PM Chris Graham via CnC-List 
 wrote:

The diaphragm on the manual bilge pump in the cockpit seems to be compromised. 
Would one try to find a new diaphragm to replace it or install a better system 
in the lazarette, such as a whale or something similar? 

Do they even make replacement diaphragms for a 1978 26’?
Chris 
Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Manual bilge

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

https://www.whalepumps.com/marine/product.aspx?Category_ID=10009&Product_ID=10006&FriendlyID=Double-Acting-Mk-5

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 10/18/2018 8:56 AM, Chris Graham via CnC-List wrote:
Easier just to replace the unit? Are they now using composites or 
still using corrosive alloys?? Seems silly not to use composites in 
this day an age particularly around salt water.


Chris


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone 

On Thursday, October 18, 2018, 8:51 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 wrote:


I'll ditto the comments about the alloy corrosion in Whale
Gushers.  I've replaced the one on Touche' twice in 19 years. 
Both times the sealing surface for the flapper style check valves
were corroded.

The last time I disassembled the new pump prior to installation,
coated all the alloy surfaces with TefGel, reassembled and then
installed it.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Oct 17, 2018 at 3:54 PM Chris Graham via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

The diaphragm on the manual bilge pump in the cockpit seems to
be compromised. Would one try to find a new diaphragm to
replace it or install a better system in the lazarette, such
as a whale or something similar?

Do they even make replacement diaphragms for a 1978 26’?

Chris
Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone 
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-- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support
the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



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Re: Stus-List Manual bilge

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Finding a plastic pump with matching bolt pattern is the challenge.  I
think there are a few.  There's also the issue of freeze protecting a
plastic pump which may or may not be an issue.

Yes, they are expensive but a Whale Gusher may just save you and your boat.

BTW, I routinely flush my Gusher with dock water and leave it with dock
water in it as opposed to leaving salt or brackish water in it for long
periods.

Dennis C.

On Thu, Oct 18, 2018 at 7:56 AM Chris Graham via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Easier just to replace the unit? Are they now using composites or still
> using corrosive alloys?? Seems silly not to use composites in this day an
> age particularly around salt water.
>
> Chris
>
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone 
>
> On Thursday, October 18, 2018, 8:51 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I'll ditto the comments about the alloy corrosion in Whale Gushers.  I've
> replaced the one on Touche' twice in 19 years.  Both times the sealing
> surface for the flapper style check valves were corroded.
>
> The last time I disassembled the new pump prior to installation, coated
> all the alloy surfaces with TefGel, reassembled and then installed it.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Wed, Oct 17, 2018 at 3:54 PM Chris Graham via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> The diaphragm on the manual bilge pump in the cockpit seems to be
> compromised. Would one try to find a new diaphragm to replace it or install
> a better system in the lazarette, such as a whale or something similar?
>
> Do they even make replacement diaphragms for a 1978 26’?
>
> Chris
> Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone 
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>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>
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> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
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Re: Stus-List Galley countertop

[David via CnC-List]

Fred, Danny and Dennis.  Thanks for the pics and suggestions.  Install pretty 
straightforward?  I am not removing fiddles so an accurate template is a must.  
Any gremlins to look out for?  This is a once and done kinda thing.  Dont want 
to muck it up.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Frederick G Street 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, October 18, 2018 8:52 AM
To: David via CnC-List
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List Galley countertop

For my boat (1979 Landfall 38), the Wilsonart color “Putty” (1503) was a 
perfect match.  Your mileage may vary…

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Oct 18, 2018, at 7:47 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Applying laminate surface to your countertops should be fairly straightforward. 
 Here's a link to a galley shelf I installed on Touche':

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/galley_shelf/index.htm

I also added laminate to the aft bulkhead and outboard bulkhead in Touche' both 
to lighten it up visually and to provide a more water resistant surface.  
Here's a link:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsQk9CUjEzOGJiY3M

Both bulkheads were teak.

I found that Wilsonart Frosty White countertop laminate from Lowes matched the 
existing countertops in Touche' closely.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


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Re: Stus-List Galley countertop

[David via CnC-List]

Thanks Edd...I wonder how it  is holding up?


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Edd Schillay via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, October 17, 2018 6:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edd Schillay
Subject: Re: Stus-List Galley countertop

David,

I know someone who installed a vinyl wrap that gives the surface a look like 
marble or granite. Looked pretty damn good.

Check this out:

RoyalWallSkins Marble Contact Paper Self Adhesive - 24" x 78.7" Roll - Faux 
Marble Paper Granite Look Wallpaper for Counter top Kitchen Cabinet Furniture 
(White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F8TRYJN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_0o7XBbCBX4YRF

All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.774.9767   | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone X
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize


On Oct 17, 2018, at 5:59 PM, David via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Love my 1981 40, but I am so tired of the teak countertops in the galley. Has 
anybody laid on top of the teak a formica like substance to  lighten up the 
galley?

>From my Android

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Re: Stus-List Manual bilge

[Chris Graham via CnC-List]

Easier just to replace the unit? Are they now using composites or still using 
corrosive alloys?? Seems silly not to use composites in this day an age 
particularly around salt water. 
Chris 


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone


On Thursday, October 18, 2018, 8:51 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I'll ditto the comments about the alloy corrosion in Whale Gushers.  I've 
replaced the one on Touche' twice in 19 years.  Both times the sealing surface 
for the flapper style check valves were corroded.
The last time I disassembled the new pump prior to installation, coated all the 
alloy surfaces with TefGel, reassembled and then installed it.
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA
On Wed, Oct 17, 2018 at 3:54 PM Chris Graham via CnC-List 
 wrote:

The diaphragm on the manual bilge pump in the cockpit seems to be compromised. 
Would one try to find a new diaphragm to replace it or install a better system 
in the lazarette, such as a whale or something similar? 

Do they even make replacement diaphragms for a 1978 26’?
Chris 
Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone
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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


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Re: Stus-List Manual bilge

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I'll ditto the comments about the alloy corrosion in Whale Gushers.  I've
replaced the one on Touche' twice in 19 years.  Both times the sealing
surface for the flapper style check valves were corroded.

The last time I disassembled the new pump prior to installation, coated all
the alloy surfaces with TefGel, reassembled and then installed it.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Oct 17, 2018 at 3:54 PM Chris Graham via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The diaphragm on the manual bilge pump in the cockpit seems to be
> compromised. Would one try to find a new diaphragm to replace it or install
> a better system in the lazarette, such as a whale or something similar?
>
> Do they even make replacement diaphragms for a 1978 26’?
>
> Chris
> Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone 
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Galley countertop

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

For my boat (1979 Landfall 38), the Wilsonart color “Putty” (1503) was a 
perfect match.  Your mileage may vary…

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Oct 18, 2018, at 7:47 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Applying laminate surface to your countertops should be fairly 
> straightforward.  Here's a link to a galley shelf I installed on Touche':
> 
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/galley_shelf/index.htm 
> 
> 
> I also added laminate to the aft bulkhead and outboard bulkhead in Touche' 
> both to lighten it up visually and to provide a more water resistant surface. 
>  Here's a link:
> 
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsQk9CUjEzOGJiY3M 
> 
> 
> Both bulkheads were teak.  
> 
> I found that Wilsonart Frosty White countertop laminate from Lowes matched 
> the existing countertops in Touche' closely.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Galley countertop

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Applying laminate surface to your countertops should be fairly
straightforward.  Here's a link to a galley shelf I installed on Touche':

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/galley_shelf/index.htm

I also added laminate to the aft bulkhead and outboard bulkhead in Touche'
both to lighten it up visually and to provide a more water resistant
surface.  Here's a link:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsQk9CUjEzOGJiY3M

Both bulkheads were teak.

I found that Wilsonart Frosty White countertop laminate from Lowes matched
the existing countertops in Touche' closely.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Wed, Oct 17, 2018 at 5:00 PM David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Love my 1981 40, but I am so tired of the teak countertops in the galley.
> Has anybody laid on top of the teak a formica like substance to  lighten up
> the galley?
>
> From my Android
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Galley countertop

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

 David, Three counters on my boat are Formica.  Its a good product.  I had my 
first experience with it over last winter.  I applied it to the marine plywood 
that I used to make the settee fronts in the main salon.   You saw them on 
Sunday.  Not very difficult at all.  It is a bit unforgiving as, once the two 
pieces meet there is no adjustment.  Usually, you have to overhang the edges 
and trim back so it's flush.  That gives you wiggle room.  Iss work with out 
again without hesitation and I have the roller you can borrow. 


Thanks, Danny
 Original message From: David via CnC-List 
 Date: 10/17/18  5:59 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: CNC CNC 
 Cc: David  Subject: Stus-List 
Galley countertop 


Love my 1981 40, but I am so tired of the teak countertops in the galley. Has 
anybody laid on top of the teak a formica like substance to  lighten up the 
galley?






From my Android



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