Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Hi Steve,

I appreciate the direct, no-BS approach, and agree with you, which is why I
haven't gone to see the boat yet. Other boats I've literally run out the
door to see, including a Nicholson 31 which I missed last month because
someone got there first. The owner of this 35 mk2 has sent me a few more
photos, and several pages detailing the boat's inventory, including enough
new gear in the past 2-3 years to probably justify a 25k price. But I agree
on the VW motor, and I'm a VW fanatic... but I don't let anyone touch my
vehicles, which is why they last forever, not because I'm perfect, but
because I know them well, and listen to them when things don't sound right.
That said, if I saw the engine up close and ran it, I might feel
differently. But a custom install done by someone else (dual alternators
and a drive pulley for the watermaker sounds like a nightmare to me) is not
something I'm excited about taking on.
If time allows, I may look at the boat just to get a feel for it, and the
35-2. So far, I've only been on a few C and only looked at a 37 closely.
There is a 37 going for $18K with a custom deep keel and tall mast, but it
has soggy decks and the interior is original so would need a lot of work.
But it has a bunch of really nice sails...

Thanks.


On Fri, Jan 4, 2019 at 4:48 PM Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I like the MKII and I love C as much as any on this list, but he's not
> going to get 30k for that boat. I wouldn't pay 20k for that boat based on
> that ad.
> It's listed since the summer and it's not sold, it's now winter. Private
> seller? How many times do you think he wants to show that boat?
>
> "Contact me for more details and photos." - <-- that right there is a
> non-starter for me.
>
> He thinks he's going to save time answering the same inquiries over and
> over again? Not likely. He's waiting for a buyer that doesn't know what
> questions to ask. That ad is missing a tonne of detail and to me, that's a
> clear indication of a time waster. I think people sell boats privately
> because they don't like the things they hear from brokers, namely, the
> market price of their 45 year old boat.
>
> My opinion is worth what you paid for it and no offence intended for
> anyone on this list. I've been around this block a couple of times now, on
> both ends.
>
> Look at broker boats, if you haven't already. I would forego the luxuries
> entirely with your budget and focus on an updated motor, rigging, a dry
> deck and solid mast step. If you can get a 35 mkII with the above and no
> other "frills", I would call that a good deal at 25k. Solar, batteries and
> cruising niceties can be added as you go, and then you get new stuff, that
> you know how to maintain. The boat in the ad is a project boat. If it
> weren't, he'd be bragging about all the hoses he replaced and how new the
>  the? See my point? 45 year old rod rigging on salt water? Marinized VW
> in a C? That's a replacement motor, last I checked C wasn't putting VWs
> in their boats. This owner didn't put in a Beta, or a Yanmar - he put in a
> used, marinized VW. He doesn't want to pay commission. Too many warning
> signs for my tastes.
>
> But it's got a water maker! never mind that noise
>
> I like the MKII. I hope you find one, and that it serves you well.
> Fair winds.
> Steve
>
>
> On Fri, Jan 4, 2019 at 2:39 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Russ,
>>
>> Thanks for the reply. It has been listed since the summer, and he seems
>> to be dropping the price; I know he is motivated, but it's still a bit
>> beyond my budget, and moorage will cost a bit more than the 30' boats I've
>> been looking at.
>>
>> I'm very familiar with VW diesels, currently own two, and have had many
>> since the 80s. Not sure how access is since the engine is larger than the
>> A4, and economy is probably not as good as a 2-3 cyl Yanmar, although
>> tuning the IP might help. Just don't see many marine VWs so not sure how
>> they fare in this application - the blocks are bulletproof, but not sure
>> about the marine components, manifold/exchanger, raw water pump etc. Sounds
>> like it may be a custom job also, so if parts are non-standard that could
>> be an issue.
>>
>> I'll probably arrange to see it, and report back. I'm just trying to get
>> the most solid boat I can for about $20-25k CAD, so boats that don't have
>> what I need/want (cockpit enclosure for winter is one), or have a bunch of
>> stuff I don't need, will mean that I must pay more, or allow for additional
>> costs to add things.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Jan 4, 2019 at 10:18 AM Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Hi Shawn,
>>>
>>> The ad identifies her as a 35 mk-2 and only $30,000.
>>>
>>> Nice set-up for extended B.C. coastal cruising with solar panels, water
>>> maker and Solent jib. The Solent jib is a good choice for short-handed
>>> cruising but a PITA for tacking the genoa if it can't 

Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Steve,

Are you on the West Coast?

Cheers, Russ

At 04:47 PM 1/4/2019, you wrote:
I like the MKII and I love C as much as any 
on this list, but he's not going to get 30k for 
that boat. I wouldn't pay 20k for that boat based on that ad.Â
It's listed since the summer and it's not sold, 
it's now winter. Private seller? How many times 
do you think he wants to show that boat?Â


"Contact me for more details and photos." - <-- 
that right there is a non-starter for me.Â


He thinks he's going to save time answering the 
same inquiries over and over again? Not likely. 
He's waiting for a buyer that doesn't know what 
questions to ask. That ad is missing a tonne of 
detail and to me, that's a clear indication of a 
time waster. I think people sell boats privately 
because they don't like the things they hear 
from brokers, namely, the market price of their 45 year old boat.Â


My opinion is worth what you paid for it and no 
offence intended for anyone on this list. I've 
been around this block a couple of times now, on both ends.Â


Look at broker boats, if you haven't already. I 
would forego the luxuries entirely with your 
budget and focus on an updated motor, rigging, a 
dry deck and solid mast step. If you can get a 
35 mkII with the above and no other "frills", I 
would call that a good deal at 25k. Solar, 
batteries and cruising niceties can be added as 
you go, and then you get new stuff, that you 
know how to maintain. The boat in the ad is a 
project boat. If it weren't, he'd be bragging 
about all the hoses he replaced and how new the 
 the? See my point? 45 year old rod rigging 
on salt water? Marinized VW in a C? That's a 
replacement motor, last I checked C wasn't 
putting VWs in their boats. This owner didn't 
put in a Beta, or a Yanmar - he put in a used, 
marinized VW. He doesn't want to pay commission. 
Too many warning signs for my tastes.Â


But it's got a water maker! never mind that noise

I like the MKII. I hope you find one, and that it serves you well.
Fair winds.Â
Steve


On Fri, Jan 4, 2019 at 2:39 PM Shawn Wright via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Hi Russ,

Thanks for the reply. It has been listed since 
the summer, and he seems to be dropping the 
price; I know he is motivated, but it's still a 
bit beyond my budget, and moorage will cost a 
bit more than the 30' boats I've been looking at.


I'm very familiar with VW diesels, currently own 
two, and have had many since the 80s. Not sure 
how access is since the engine is larger than 
the A4, and economy is probably not as good as a 
2-3 cyl Yanmar, although tuning the IP might 
help. Just don't see many marine VWs so not sure 
how they fare in this application - the blocks 
are bulletproof, but not sure about the marine 
components, manifold/exchanger, raw water pump 
etc. Sounds like it may be a custom job also, so 
if parts are non-standard that could be an issue.Â


I'll probably arrange to see it, and report 
back. I'm just trying to get the most solid boat 
I can for about $20-25k CAD, so boats that don't 
have what I need/want (cockpit enclosure for 
winter is one), or have a bunch of stuff I don't 
need, will mean that I must pay more, or allow 
for additional costs to add things.Â




On Fri, Jan 4, 2019 at 10:18 AM Russ & Melody 
via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Hi Shawn,

The ad identifies her as a 35 mk-2 and only $30,000.

Nice set-up for extended B.C. coastal cruising 
with solar panels, water maker and Solent jib. 
The Solent jib is a good choice for short-handed 
cruising but a PITA for tacking the genoa if it 
can't be moved aft (not practical with the 
furler on it). The dodger is okay and most 
coastal cruiser like them. I don't as a personal 
preference (mostly 'cause they're ugly and 
impair good visibility while sailing.


No stability issues with any of that, or the big 
honking anchor on the bow. And you will sleep well in a blow. :)


The older marinized VW diesels are known for 
cracked head issues but since it is only 
operating at 50% load at max (check the prop 
size) it likely doesn't get hot enough to suffer 
at the head, but continuos running at low load 
can lead to carbon buildups (sticky rings & valve problems).


For a well found cruiser that appears ready to 
go I think $30 grand is a bargain.


        Cheers, Russ
        ex- Sweet, 35 mk-1






At 08:27 AM 1/4/2019, you wrote:

Hello,

I am considering a '74 36' mk2, with several 
modifications, and I am curious about how they 
might affect the boat in terms of suitability 
for coastal cruising (BC coast) and possibly a 
trip around Vancouver Island. Perhaps some here 
are familiar with the boat 'Callisto' which has:


Twin furlers rigged with 150 genoa and 90 jib.
VW diesel with dual alternators, reported 4000 hrs.
Watermaker
Aluminum framed dodger (not the most attractive, but appears well built).

The asking price is 

Re: Stus-List Cockpit scupper drains - stories version

[Greg Swetka via CnC-List]

I also have a 35mkII and I know for a fact that there were never 4 thru hulls. 
Mine aft ones were always teed to the forward ones. The aft ones always held 
water as the hoses went straight down and looped back up over the partial 
bulkheads before connecting to the forward ones. I recently improved that 
condition by attaching 90 degree elbows directly to the drain and then routing 
to the forward tee. 
Greg Swetka 
S.V. Piper
C 
Lake Ste. Clair, MI

Sent from my iPad

> On Jan 4, 2019, at 6:12 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Re:  Cockpit scupper drains - stories version


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Re: Stus-List Cockpit scupper drains

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Interesting. I’ve always thought that open cockpits made sense. I remember the 
days of concern about open transoms.

They’re everywhere now…

Regards,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Jan 4, 2019, at 7:30 PM, Rob Ball via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> When I first worked at C, I did a number of calculations figuring out how 
> big the drains had to be, in order to empty the cockpit quickly enough . . . 
> . . 
> Later on, of course we did some open transoms - dangerous everyone said - but 
> it turned out they were actually safer . . . . . 
> 
> Rob Ball.C 34
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I like the MKII and I love C as much as any on this list, but he's not
going to get 30k for that boat. I wouldn't pay 20k for that boat based on
that ad.
It's listed since the summer and it's not sold, it's now winter. Private
seller? How many times do you think he wants to show that boat?

"Contact me for more details and photos." - <-- that right there is a
non-starter for me.

He thinks he's going to save time answering the same inquiries over and
over again? Not likely. He's waiting for a buyer that doesn't know what
questions to ask. That ad is missing a tonne of detail and to me, that's a
clear indication of a time waster. I think people sell boats privately
because they don't like the things they hear from brokers, namely, the
market price of their 45 year old boat.

My opinion is worth what you paid for it and no offence intended for anyone
on this list. I've been around this block a couple of times now, on both
ends.

Look at broker boats, if you haven't already. I would forego the luxuries
entirely with your budget and focus on an updated motor, rigging, a dry
deck and solid mast step. If you can get a 35 mkII with the above and no
other "frills", I would call that a good deal at 25k. Solar, batteries and
cruising niceties can be added as you go, and then you get new stuff, that
you know how to maintain. The boat in the ad is a project boat. If it
weren't, he'd be bragging about all the hoses he replaced and how new the
 the? See my point? 45 year old rod rigging on salt water? Marinized VW
in a C? That's a replacement motor, last I checked C wasn't putting VWs
in their boats. This owner didn't put in a Beta, or a Yanmar - he put in a
used, marinized VW. He doesn't want to pay commission. Too many warning
signs for my tastes.

But it's got a water maker! never mind that noise

I like the MKII. I hope you find one, and that it serves you well.
Fair winds.
Steve


On Fri, Jan 4, 2019 at 2:39 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Russ,
>
> Thanks for the reply. It has been listed since the summer, and he seems to
> be dropping the price; I know he is motivated, but it's still a bit beyond
> my budget, and moorage will cost a bit more than the 30' boats I've been
> looking at.
>
> I'm very familiar with VW diesels, currently own two, and have had many
> since the 80s. Not sure how access is since the engine is larger than the
> A4, and economy is probably not as good as a 2-3 cyl Yanmar, although
> tuning the IP might help. Just don't see many marine VWs so not sure how
> they fare in this application - the blocks are bulletproof, but not sure
> about the marine components, manifold/exchanger, raw water pump etc. Sounds
> like it may be a custom job also, so if parts are non-standard that could
> be an issue.
>
> I'll probably arrange to see it, and report back. I'm just trying to get
> the most solid boat I can for about $20-25k CAD, so boats that don't have
> what I need/want (cockpit enclosure for winter is one), or have a bunch of
> stuff I don't need, will mean that I must pay more, or allow for additional
> costs to add things.
>
>
>
> On Fri, Jan 4, 2019 at 10:18 AM Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> Hi Shawn,
>>
>> The ad identifies her as a 35 mk-2 and only $30,000.
>>
>> Nice set-up for extended B.C. coastal cruising with solar panels, water
>> maker and Solent jib. The Solent jib is a good choice for short-handed
>> cruising but a PITA for tacking the genoa if it can't be moved aft (not
>> practical with the furler on it). The dodger is okay and most coastal
>> cruiser like them. I don't as a personal preference (mostly 'cause they're
>> ugly and impair good visibility while sailing.
>>
>> No stability issues with any of that, or the big honking anchor on the
>> bow. And you will sleep well in a blow. :)
>>
>> The older marinized VW diesels are known for cracked head issues but
>> since it is only operating at 50% load at max (check the prop size) it
>> likely doesn't get hot enough to suffer at the head, but continuos running
>> at low load can lead to carbon buildups (sticky rings & valve problems).
>>
>> For a well found cruiser that appears ready to go I think $30 grand is a
>> bargain.
>>
>> Cheers, Russ
>> ex-* Sweet*, 35 mk-1
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> At 08:27 AM 1/4/2019, you wrote:
>>
>> Hello,
>>
>> I am considering a '74 36' mk2, with several modifications, and I am
>> curious about how they might affect the boat in terms of suitability for
>> coastal cruising (BC coast) and possibly a trip around Vancouver Island.
>> Perhaps some here are familiar with the boat 'Callisto' which has:
>>
>> Twin furlers rigged with 150 genoa and 90 jib.
>> VW diesel with dual alternators, reported 4000 hrs.
>> Watermaker
>> Aluminum framed dodger (not the most attractive, but appears well built).
>>
>> The asking price is $32k CAD, which seems high.
>> 

Stus-List Cockpit scupper drains

[Rob Ball via CnC-List]

When I first worked at C, I did a number of calculations figuring out how big 
the drains had to be, in order to empty the cockpit quickly enough . . . . . 
Later on, of course we did some open transoms - dangerous everyone said - but 
it turned out they were actually safer . . . . . 

Rob Ball.C 34


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Re: Stus-List Cockpit scupper drains - stories version

[Paul Baker via CnC-List]

Many races also have specific requirements around the size of scuppers vs. 
cockpit volume.

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List 
Sent: January 4, 2019 2:12:27 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cockpit scupper drains - stories version

Be interesting to plug them, fill the cockpit with a few inches of water and 
see how fast they drain.  I'm guessing marine architects have guidelines for 
how big the flow area for scuppers has to be for a certain area of cockpit.  
ABYC may even have such a guide.

My point is if there were originally 4 thru hulls and now only 
2.

Dennis C.


On Fri, Jan 4, 2019 at 3:57 PM Don Kern via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Dwight

Same here.  The aft cockpit valves were removed and the aft scuppers were T'ed 
to the forward valves.  When I was getting the bottom of the boat ready for 
paint I could make out the where they had been.  It was most likely done at the 
factory as Fireball was campaigned by C in the 1975 SORC series.

Don Kern
Fireball C 35 MkII
Bristol, RI
[cid:1681ae92e518186d5401]___

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Re: Stus-List Cockpit scupper drains - stories version

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

And the 35  MK1 has a very low companionway/bridge deck but lots of volume
to fill with water below decks. I could be about knee deep in water in the
MKIi cockpit not the same in the MKI.

On Fri, Jan 4, 2019 at 6:13 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Be interesting to plug them, fill the cockpit with a few inches of water
> and see how fast they drain.  I'm guessing marine architects have
> guidelines for how big the flow area for scuppers has to be for a certain
> area of cockpit.  ABYC may even have such a guide.
>
> My point is if there were originally 4 thru hulls and now only
> 2.
>
> Dennis C.
>
>
> On Fri, Jan 4, 2019 at 3:57 PM Don Kern via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Dwight
>>
>> Same here.  The aft cockpit valves were removed and the aft scuppers were
>> T'ed to the forward valves.  When I was getting the bottom of the boat
>> ready for paint I could make out the where they had been.  It was most
>> likely done at the factory as *Fireball* was campaigned by C in the
>> 1975 SORC series.
>> Don Kern
>> Fireball C 35 MkII
>> Bristol, RI
>>
>> ___
>>>
>>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List Cockpit scupper drains - stories version

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Be interesting to plug them, fill the cockpit with a few inches of water
and see how fast they drain.  I'm guessing marine architects have
guidelines for how big the flow area for scuppers has to be for a certain
area of cockpit.  ABYC may even have such a guide.

My point is if there were originally 4 thru hulls and now only
2.

Dennis C.


On Fri, Jan 4, 2019 at 3:57 PM Don Kern via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Dwight
>
> Same here.  The aft cockpit valves were removed and the aft scuppers were
> T'ed to the forward valves.  When I was getting the bottom of the boat
> ready for paint I could make out the where they had been.  It was most
> likely done at the factory as *Fireball* was campaigned by C in the
> 1975 SORC series.
> Don Kern
> Fireball C 35 MkII
> Bristol, RI
>
> ___
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Cockpit scupper drains - stories version

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Dwight

Same here.  The aft cockpit valves were removed and the aft scuppers 
were T'ed to the forward valves.  When I was getting the bottom of the 
boat ready for paint I could make out the where they had been.  It was 
most likely done at the factory as /Fireball/ was campaigned by C in 
the 1975 SORC series.


Don Kern
Fireball C 35 MkII
Bristol, RI



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Re: Stus-List Cockpit scupper drains - stories version

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

On my C 35 MKII the after cockpit drain seacocks have been removed. The
hoses for the aft cockpit drains cross over and exit into the forward
cockpit drain seacocks.

On Fri, Jan 4, 2019 at 3:07 AM Lee Youngblood via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Don,
>
> I have a 1974 C 35-II with the same drain plan.  I’ve sailed in >34kts
> in Puget Sound (I didn’t look after that) and some puffs were around 50 -
> reported by other cruising boats, returning from the same raft-up.  I
> should have had the third reef in, but had my hands full by then.
> Depending on the wave conditions, I only buried the rail every 3-5 waves.
> We don’t have a dodger, so I like the “protection” of the leeward aft
> cockpit seat, and on the big puffs got sprayed, and the really big one,
> likely over 50, slightly hosed.  I was very impressed with the combings and
> deck design, as I watched 3-6 inches of foaming water flowing down the deck
> towards me.  C got it right, the combing curves, and the water was
> sloshed right off the boat!  I’m pretty sure you would need much bigger
> offshore waves to get any real water in the cockpit.
>
> No I take that back!  Years ago, we were crossing the sound, close behind
> a big container ship.  I headed up to take a picture, and Kathleen calmly
> said “I think I will go straight into this one.”  Before I could say
> anything, the bow dropped about 8’ into the hole, I stepped up onto the
> coach-house, put my elbow over the boom, and picked up my feet as the wave
> poured over the boat into the cockpit.  It didn’t take long for about  16”
> of water to disappear, and as she jumped up on the aft seats to keep her
> feet dry, she said “Well I don’t think I will do that again!”  We had the
> companion-way hatch closed, but forward hatch, and the scoop vents in the
> head were under water and leaked.  Even years later, Kathleen is very good
> about checking that the forward hatch is dogged down. . . every time we go
> out.
>
> Great boats!  Happy New Year, Lee
>
>
> On Jan 3, 2019, at 7:17 31PM, Don Kern via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> With all this discussion of the cockpit drains I went out to my boat
> (C MkII, which spends winter in my side yard) to check the layout and
> take some measurements.  The two scupper valves are 9" from the centerline
> (18" apart) and are approx. 20" below the waterline.  The cockpit deck
> (floor) is 12" above the waterline. The forward T-cockpit drain is 26"
> above the hull at the valve and valve top is 5 1/4" tall measured from the
> outside of the hull at the valve exit.  Both valves are faired flush to the
> hull.  The aft cockpit scupper drains which are T'ed into the forward
> scuppers valves are further outboard and a little lower.  It is these
> scuppers that have water when heeling over to the point that we have water
> coming over the leeward rail.  I have attached a diagram of the set up.  It
> appears that cross connecting the scuppers would not help keep water out of
> the aft cockpit as the boat would have to have the spreaders almost in the
> water.  Portends I have bigger problems then water in the cockpit.
> Don Kern
> Fireball, C Mk2
> Bristol, RI
> On 1/3/2019 1:47 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
>
> As I recall, on my 35-1 it takes 15-20 degrees for water to emerge from
> the leeward steering station scupper.  That's just when it's starting to
> get fun!
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Thu, Jan 3, 2019 at 11:16 AM Garry Cross via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Understand that. Wonder what degree of heel it would take to achieve
>> that.
>>
>
>
>> On Wed, Jan 2, 2019 at 3:01 PM Neil Andersen <
>> neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> The issue is when the cockpit holes AND the thru-hulls are both below
>>> the line.
>>>
>>>
>>>
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Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Hi Russ,

Thanks for the reply. It has been listed since the summer, and he seems to
be dropping the price; I know he is motivated, but it's still a bit beyond
my budget, and moorage will cost a bit more than the 30' boats I've been
looking at.

I'm very familiar with VW diesels, currently own two, and have had many
since the 80s. Not sure how access is since the engine is larger than the
A4, and economy is probably not as good as a 2-3 cyl Yanmar, although
tuning the IP might help. Just don't see many marine VWs so not sure how
they fare in this application - the blocks are bulletproof, but not sure
about the marine components, manifold/exchanger, raw water pump etc. Sounds
like it may be a custom job also, so if parts are non-standard that could
be an issue.

I'll probably arrange to see it, and report back. I'm just trying to get
the most solid boat I can for about $20-25k CAD, so boats that don't have
what I need/want (cockpit enclosure for winter is one), or have a bunch of
stuff I don't need, will mean that I must pay more, or allow for additional
costs to add things.



On Fri, Jan 4, 2019 at 10:18 AM Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Hi Shawn,
>
> The ad identifies her as a 35 mk-2 and only $30,000.
>
> Nice set-up for extended B.C. coastal cruising with solar panels, water
> maker and Solent jib. The Solent jib is a good choice for short-handed
> cruising but a PITA for tacking the genoa if it can't be moved aft (not
> practical with the furler on it). The dodger is okay and most coastal
> cruiser like them. I don't as a personal preference (mostly 'cause they're
> ugly and impair good visibility while sailing.
>
> No stability issues with any of that, or the big honking anchor on the
> bow. And you will sleep well in a blow. :)
>
> The older marinized VW diesels are known for cracked head issues but since
> it is only operating at 50% load at max (check the prop size) it likely
> doesn't get hot enough to suffer at the head, but continuos running at low
> load can lead to carbon buildups (sticky rings & valve problems).
>
> For a well found cruiser that appears ready to go I think $30 grand is a
> bargain.
>
> Cheers, Russ
> ex-* Sweet*, 35 mk-1
>
>
>
>
>
>
> At 08:27 AM 1/4/2019, you wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> I am considering a '74 36' mk2, with several modifications, and I am
> curious about how they might affect the boat in terms of suitability for
> coastal cruising (BC coast) and possibly a trip around Vancouver Island.
> Perhaps some here are familiar with the boat 'Callisto' which has:
>
> Twin furlers rigged with 150 genoa and 90 jib.
> VW diesel with dual alternators, reported 4000 hrs.
> Watermaker
> Aluminum framed dodger (not the most attractive, but appears well built).
>
> The asking price is $32k CAD, which seems high.
> https://www.kijiji.ca/v-sailboat/victoria-bc/c-c-35-mk-ii/1372900178
>
> Interested in thoughts on this boat, and the 35-2 in general.
>
> Thanks
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
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>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
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Re: Stus-List Speaking of cockpit locker latches

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

You can set up an account with Beneteau and buy spare parts if you know
what model boat you saw them on.
IIRC the Lewmar prices were good.
Joel.

On Fri, Jan 4, 2019 at 2:23 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Lee,
>
> usually, people are not kicked off the list. Instead, a simple
> keel-hauling is applied as an appropriate punishment...
>
> Marek
>
> *From:* Lee Youngblood via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, January 4, 2019 13:33
> *To:* CnC-List
> *Cc:* Lee Youngblood
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Speaking of cockpit locker latches
>
> I actually was impressed with the ones I saw on a Beneteau - Gasp!  Please
> don’t kick me off this list guys!
>
> 2 cents, Lee
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Speaking of cockpit locker latches

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Lee,

usually, people are not kicked off the list. Instead, a simple keel-hauling is 
applied as an appropriate punishment...

Marek

From: Lee Youngblood via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 4, 2019 13:33
To: CnC-List
Cc: Lee Youngblood
Subject: Re: Stus-List Speaking of cockpit locker latches

I actually was impressed with the ones I saw on a Beneteau - Gasp!  Please 
don’t kick me off this list guys!

2 cents, Lee




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Re: Stus-List Speaking of cockpit locker latches

[Lee Youngblood via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis,

I actually was impressed with the ones I saw on a Beneteau - Gasp!  Please 
don’t kick me off this list guys!  They were simple pushbutton to open, spring 
loaded and automatically lock every time.  The pin from inside, can easily be 
opened if trapped inside.  One of the good thoughts I had seen on a b. 

2 cents, Lee 


> On Jan 4, 2019, at 8:00 06AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Touche' still has the original cockpit locker hasp style latches.  You know 
> the ones that are "upside down" so they close when the lid is down trapping 
> me in the locker.  I actually don't mind them because I drape a coil of line 
> or a towel over the opening whenever I'm in the locker and on the boat alone. 
>  However, these old hasps probably don't comply with ABYC.
> 
> The solution is probably some swivel style hasps like these:
> 
> https://www.hingeoutlet.com/products/s3853-0002 
> 
> 
> The reason I haven't replaced them or flipped them 180 degrees is because I 
> haven't found any that match or hide the old bolt pattern.  Any listers found 
> hasps that fit?
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Shawn,

The ad identifies her as a 35 mk-2 and only $30,000.

Nice set-up for extended B.C. coastal cruising with solar panels, 
water maker and Solent jib. The Solent jib is a good choice for 
short-handed cruising but a PITA for tacking the genoa if it can't be 
moved aft (not practical with the furler on it). The dodger is okay 
and most coastal cruiser like them. I don't as a personal preference 
(mostly 'cause they're ugly and impair good visibility while sailing.


No stability issues with any of that, or the big honking anchor on 
the bow. And you will sleep well in a blow. :)


The older marinized VW diesels are known for cracked head issues but 
since it is only operating at 50% load at max (check the prop size) 
it likely doesn't get hot enough to suffer at the head, but continuos 
running at low load can lead to carbon buildups (sticky rings & valve 
problems).


For a well found cruiser that appears ready to go I think $30 grand 
is a bargain.


Cheers, Russ
ex-Sweet, 35 mk-1






At 08:27 AM 1/4/2019, you wrote:

Hello,

I am considering a '74 36' mk2, with several modifications, and I am 
curious about how they might affect the boat in terms of suitability 
for coastal cruising (BC coast) and possibly a trip around Vancouver 
Island. Perhaps some here are familiar with the boat 'Callisto' which has:


Twin furlers rigged with 150 genoa and 90 jib.
VW diesel with dual alternators, reported 4000 hrs.
Watermaker
Aluminum framed dodger (not the most attractive, but appears well built).

The asking price is $32k CAD, which seems high.
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-sailboat/victoria-bc/c-c-35-mk-ii/1372900178

Interested in thoughts on this boat, and the 35-2 in general.

Thanks

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
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--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Speaking of cockpit locker latches

[Dan via CnC-List]

Still waiting on a response to Dennis' HASP situation... I'm looking for
some good hasps myself.

Any takers?

Dan
Breakaweigh
C
Halifax, NS
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Re: Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

 I raced on a friend's 35-2 and it was a delight to sail.  Did reasonably well 
in light air and could fly in a blow.Also thought it was the prettiest looking 
boat on the lake.  Too bad it wasn't red!The second prettiest is the 
30-1.RonWild CheriC 30-1STL

On Friday, January 4, 2019, 10:28:07 AM CST, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 Hello,
I am considering a '74 36' mk2, with several modifications, and I am curious 
about how they might affect the boat in terms of suitability for coastal 
cruising (BC coast) and possibly a trip around Vancouver Island. Perhaps some 
here are familiar with the boat 'Callisto' which has:
Twin furlers rigged with 150 genoa and 90 jib.VW diesel with dual alternators, 
reported 4000 hrs.WatermakerAluminum framed dodger (not the most attractive, 
but appears well built).
The asking price is $32k CAD, which seems 
high.https://www.kijiji.ca/v-sailboat/victoria-bc/c-c-35-mk-ii/1372900178

Interested in thoughts on this boat, and the 35-2 in general.

  ___

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Re: Stus-List Speaking of cockpit locker latches

[T Sutton via CnC-List]

FWIW I have an ‘86 33 Mk II and it has those springs on the cockpit locker, 
fridge and nav table and I’m not a big fan.  They are so sensitive to any sort 
of sideways touch that I couldn’t tell you how many times the lids have landed 
on my head while reaching in to get something. If I’m going into the cockpit 
locker to check anything I’ll usually use a bungee cord to ensure the lid stays 
open and I can get back out.

Tom S

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, January 4, 2019 10:02 AM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Speaking of cockpit locker latches

I have these on both cockpit locker lids:

https://www.amazon.com/Moonlite-Marine-Medium-Hatch-Holder/dp/B008Y2H5TU


They are great for keeping the lid propped open.  The downside is you need to 
train your crew to pull on them to close the lid.  If a crew tries to force the 
lid closed without pulling the spring, it will distort the spring and you have 
to buy a new one.

Also have one on the navstation lid.

I have replaced the hinges with new ones and overbored and filled all the holes.

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, Jan 4, 2019 at 10:45 AM Don Kern via CnC-List  
wrote:

  Dennis

  To avoid being trapped we have attached a length of shockcord to the back 
side of the latch so it hangs down into the locker.  It is a straight section 
going to a loop.  The straight section's end has a small diameter copper pipe 
that has been crimped flat (using a vice in my workshop) then having holes 
drilled so matches the cover's latch holes.  The other end forms a loop by 
crimping.  That loop is just long enough to go over the main winch and keep the 
seat/cover open.

  My biggest problem has been with the three hinges in that they have 
cracked/broken.  It seems that the back edge of the seat/cover was not sealed 
and and the core compressed allowing shear across the face of the hinge.  All 
have been replaced which is a two man job, one inside with a nut driver trying 
to not loose the nuts/washers to the bilge god and the other topside doing the 
screwing.

  Don Kern
  Fireball 35-2, 12708
  Bristol, RI 








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Re: Stus-List Speaking of cockpit locker latches

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

I keep a few bungee cords on the lifelines at the cockpit (both sides of the 
boat) for whatever.  When I go down the hatch, I extend the closest one to the 
hatch lid to hold it open.  Simple solution that works for me.

From: Don Kern via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2019 11:44 AM
To: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
Cc: Don Kern 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Speaking of cockpit locker latches

Dennis

To avoid being trapped we have attached a length of shockcord to the back side 
of the latch so it hangs down into the locker.  It is a straight section going 
to a loop.  The straight section's end has a small diameter copper pipe that 
has been crimped flat (using a vice in my workshop) then having holes drilled 
so matches the cover's latch holes.  The other end forms a loop by crimping.  
That loop is just long enough to go over the main winch and keep the seat/cover 
open.

My biggest problem has been with the three hinges in that they have 
cracked/broken.  It seems that the back edge of the seat/cover was not sealed 
and and the core compressed allowing shear across the face of the hinge.  All 
have been replaced which is a two man job, one inside with a nut driver trying 
to not loose the nuts/washers to the bilge god and the other topside doing the 
screwing.

Don Kern
Fireball 35-2, 12708
Bristol, RI 


On 1/4/2019 11:00 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

  Touche' still has the original cockpit locker hasp style latches.  You know 
the ones that are "upside down" so they close when the lid is down trapping me 
in the locker.  I actually don't mind them because I drape a coil of line or a 
towel over the opening whenever I'm in the locker and on the boat alone.  
However, these old hasps probably don't comply with ABYC. 

  The solution is probably some swivel style hasps like these:

  https://www.hingeoutlet.com/products/s3853-0002


  The reason I haven't replaced them or flipped them 180 degrees is because I 
haven't found any that match or hide the old bolt pattern.  Any listers found 
hasps that fit?

  Dennis C.
  Touche' 35-1 #83
  Mandeville, LA

   
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Re: Stus-List Speaking of cockpit locker latches

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I have these on both cockpit locker lids:

https://www.amazon.com/Moonlite-Marine-Medium-Hatch-Holder/dp/B008Y2H5TU

They are great for keeping the lid propped open.  The downside is you need
to train your crew to pull on them to close the lid.  If a crew tries to
force the lid closed without pulling the spring, it will distort the spring
and you have to buy a new one.

Also have one on the navstation lid.

I have replaced the hinges with new ones and overbored and filled all the
holes.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, Jan 4, 2019 at 10:45 AM Don Kern via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Dennis
>
> To avoid being trapped we have attached a length of shockcord to the back
> side of the latch so it hangs down into the locker.  It is a straight
> section going to a loop.  The straight section's end has a small diameter
> copper pipe that has been crimped flat (using a vice in my workshop) then
> having holes drilled so matches the cover's latch holes.  The other end
> forms a loop by crimping.  That loop is just long enough to go over the
> main winch and keep the seat/cover open.
>
> My biggest problem has been with the three hinges in that they have
> cracked/broken.  It seems that the back edge of the seat/cover was not
> sealed and and the core compressed allowing shear across the face of the
> hinge.  All have been replaced which is a two man job, one inside with a
> nut driver trying to not loose the nuts/washers to the bilge god and the
> other topside doing the screwing.
> Don Kern
> Fireball 35-2, 12708
> Bristol, RI
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Speaking of cockpit locker latches

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Dennis,

FWIW I was told by a surveyor that the hasps are OK but ABYC requires a
strut to hold the lid open.  I just used a shock cord around a winch.

Joel

On Fri, Jan 4, 2019 at 11:45 AM Don Kern via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Dennis
>
> To avoid being trapped we have attached a length of shockcord to the back
> side of the latch so it hangs down into the locker.  It is a straight
> section going to a loop.  The straight section's end has a small diameter
> copper pipe that has been crimped flat (using a vice in my workshop) then
> having holes drilled so matches the cover's latch holes.  The other end
> forms a loop by crimping.  That loop is just long enough to go over the
> main winch and keep the seat/cover open.
>
> My biggest problem has been with the three hinges in that they have
> cracked/broken.  It seems that the back edge of the seat/cover was not
> sealed and and the core compressed allowing shear across the face of the
> hinge.  All have been replaced which is a two man job, one inside with a
> nut driver trying to not loose the nuts/washers to the bilge god and the
> other topside doing the screwing.
> Don Kern
> Fireball 35-2, 12708
> Bristol, RI
>
>
> On 1/4/2019 11:00 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Touche' still has the original cockpit locker hasp style latches.  You
> know the ones that are "upside down" so they close when the lid is down
> trapping me in the locker.  I actually don't mind them because I drape a
> coil of line or a towel over the opening whenever I'm in the locker and on
> the boat alone.  However, these old hasps probably don't comply with ABYC.
>
> The solution is probably some swivel style hasps like these:
>
> https://www.hingeoutlet.com/products/s3853-0002
>
> The reason I haven't replaced them or flipped them 180 degrees is because
> I haven't found any that match or hide the old bolt pattern.  Any listers
> found hasps that fit?
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Speaking of cockpit locker latches

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Dennis

To avoid being trapped we have attached a length of shockcord to the 
back side of the latch so it hangs down into the locker.  It is a 
straight section going to a loop.  The straight section's end has a 
small diameter copper pipe that has been crimped flat (using a vice in 
my workshop) then having holes drilled so matches the cover's latch 
holes.  The other end forms a loop by crimping. That loop is just long 
enough to go over the main winch and keep the seat/cover open.


My biggest problem has been with the three hinges in that they have 
cracked/broken.  It seems that the back edge of the seat/cover was not 
sealed and and the core compressed allowing shear across the face of the 
hinge.  All have been replaced which is a two man job, one inside with a 
nut driver trying to not loose the nuts/washers to the bilge god and the 
other topside doing the screwing.


Don Kern
Fireball 35-2, 12708
Bristol, RI


On 1/4/2019 11:00 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
Touche' still has the original cockpit locker hasp style latches.  You 
know the ones that are "upside down" so they close when the lid is 
down trapping me in the locker. I actually don't mind them because I 
drape a coil of line or a towel over the opening whenever I'm in the 
locker and on the boat alone.  However, these old hasps probably don't 
comply with ABYC.


The solution is probably some swivel style hasps like these:

https://www.hingeoutlet.com/products/s3853-0002

The reason I haven't replaced them or flipped them 180 degrees is 
because I haven't found any that match or hide the old bolt pattern.  
Any listers found hasps that fit?


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

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Stus-List 1974 36 mk2 questions

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Hello,

I am considering a '74 36' mk2, with several modifications, and I am
curious about how they might affect the boat in terms of suitability for
coastal cruising (BC coast) and possibly a trip around Vancouver Island.
Perhaps some here are familiar with the boat 'Callisto' which has:

Twin furlers rigged with 150 genoa and 90 jib.
VW diesel with dual alternators, reported 4000 hrs.
Watermaker
Aluminum framed dodger (not the most attractive, but appears well built).

The asking price is $32k CAD, which seems high.
https://www.kijiji.ca/v-sailboat/victoria-bc/c-c-35-mk-ii/1372900178

Interested in thoughts on this boat, and the 35-2 in general.

Thanks

-- 
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
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Stus-List Speaking of cockpit locker latches

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Touche' still has the original cockpit locker hasp style latches.  You know
the ones that are "upside down" so they close when the lid is down trapping
me in the locker.  I actually don't mind them because I drape a coil of
line or a towel over the opening whenever I'm in the locker and on the boat
alone.  However, these old hasps probably don't comply with ABYC.

The solution is probably some swivel style hasps like these:

https://www.hingeoutlet.com/products/s3853-0002

The reason I haven't replaced them or flipped them 180 degrees is because I
haven't found any that match or hide the old bolt pattern.  Any listers
found hasps that fit?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
___

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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Cockpit scupper drains - stories version

[David via CnC-List]

++1

My 1981 40-2 twin cockpit drains at the rear end of the cockpit are not 
crossed.  Over the years In various offshore weather we have been "pooped" and 
have also had plenty of solid water to prove their efficacy.  Their capacity 
was never an issue.

In my opinion a bigger issue is the lack of  gasketing and positive locks on 
the lazzarette, cockpit lockers, weather boards and anchor lockers when in 
conditions that would even begin to  test a cockpit drains capacity.

For 98% of what we are doing here, hoses crossed or not crossed, you should be 
OK...unless you have an aversion to the occasional damp cockpit floor.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Della Barba, Joe 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, January 4, 2019 7:12 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Cockpit scupper drains - stories version


In a few storms offshore we have had solid green water across the whole boat. 
The cockpit filling up was not a big deal*. We were heeled over enough that a 
lot of it sloshed back out and the rest went down the drain. The cockpit 
doesn’t seem to hold that much anyway in any kind of sea.

* if the cockpit seat lockers had come open it may have been a very big deal. 
We had double locks on them :)

Joe

Coquina

C 35 MK I







From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Lee 
Youngblood via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2019 2:07 AM
To: CnC-List
Cc: Lee Youngblood
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Cockpit scupper drains - stories version



Hi Don,



I have a 1974 C 35-II with the same drain plan.  I’ve sailed in >34kts in 
Puget Sound (I didn’t look after that) and some puffs were around 50 - reported 
by other cruising boats, returning from the same raft-up.  I should have had 
the third reef in, but had my hands full by then.  Depending on the wave 
conditions, I only buried the rail every 3-5 waves.  We don’t have a dodger, so 
I like the “protection” of the leeward aft cockpit seat, and on the big puffs 
got sprayed, and the really big one, likely over 50, slightly hosed.  I was 
very impressed with the combings and deck design, as I watched 3-6 inches of 
foaming water flowing down the deck towards me.  C got it right, the combing 
curves, and the water was sloshed right off the boat!  I’m pretty sure you 
would need much bigger offshore waves to get any real water in the cockpit.



No I take that back!  Years ago, we were crossing the sound, close behind a big 
container ship.  I headed up to take a picture, and Kathleen calmly said “I 
think I will go straight into this one.”  Before I could say anything, the bow 
dropped about 8’ into the hole, I stepped up onto the coach-house, put my elbow 
over the boom, and picked up my feet as the wave poured over the boat into the 
cockpit.  It didn’t take long for about  16” of water to disappear, and as she 
jumped up on the aft seats to keep her feet dry, she said “Well I don’t think I 
will do that again!”  We had the companion-way hatch closed, but forward hatch, 
and the scoop vents in the head were under water and leaked.  Even years later, 
Kathleen is very good about checking that the forward hatch is dogged down. . . 
every time we go out.



Great boats!  Happy New Year, Lee


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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Cockpit scupper drains - stories version

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

In a few storms offshore we have had solid green water across the whole boat. 
The cockpit filling up was not a big deal*. We were heeled over enough that a 
lot of it sloshed back out and the rest went down the drain. The cockpit 
doesn’t seem to hold that much anyway in any kind of sea.
* if the cockpit seat lockers had come open it may have been a very big deal. 
We had double locks on them ☺
Joe
Coquina
C 35 MK I



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Lee 
Youngblood via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 04, 2019 2:07 AM
To: CnC-List
Cc: Lee Youngblood
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Cockpit scupper drains - stories version

Hi Don,

I have a 1974 C 35-II with the same drain plan.  I’ve sailed in >34kts in 
Puget Sound (I didn’t look after that) and some puffs were around 50 - reported 
by other cruising boats, returning from the same raft-up.  I should have had 
the third reef in, but had my hands full by then.  Depending on the wave 
conditions, I only buried the rail every 3-5 waves.  We don’t have a dodger, so 
I like the “protection” of the leeward aft cockpit seat, and on the big puffs 
got sprayed, and the really big one, likely over 50, slightly hosed.  I was 
very impressed with the combings and deck design, as I watched 3-6 inches of 
foaming water flowing down the deck towards me.  C got it right, the combing 
curves, and the water was sloshed right off the boat!  I’m pretty sure you 
would need much bigger offshore waves to get any real water in the cockpit.

No I take that back!  Years ago, we were crossing the sound, close behind a big 
container ship.  I headed up to take a picture, and Kathleen calmly said “I 
think I will go straight into this one.”  Before I could say anything, the bow 
dropped about 8’ into the hole, I stepped up onto the coach-house, put my elbow 
over the boom, and picked up my feet as the wave poured over the boat into the 
cockpit.  It didn’t take long for about  16” of water to disappear, and as she 
jumped up on the aft seats to keep her feet dry, she said “Well I don’t think I 
will do that again!”  We had the companion-way hatch closed, but forward hatch, 
and the scoop vents in the head were under water and leaked.  Even years later, 
Kathleen is very good about checking that the forward hatch is dogged down. . . 
every time we go out.

Great boats!  Happy New Year, Lee

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray