Re: Stus-List Removing powder coat

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Definitely go with a media blasting.  When I had the mast repainted the
shop sandblasted it.  Unfortunately they couldn't get all the sand out of
the 60' horizontal aluminum tube and some stayed with the wire lubricant
even after they stood the mast up - points for co2(dry ice).  I don't think
you'll have the same trouble with your 4' aluminum tube.  Soda, walnuts,
and co2 are popular for bottom paint, I'm not sure if they will be
aggressive enough for more durable finishes found above the waterline.
Most body shops and machine shops have blasting booths and could make very
short work of your pedestal.  Probably pretty cheap.  Or you could DIY, but
the air compressor volume requirements of sand blasting are pretty intense
for a home equipment.

Aircraft remover is nasty stuff.  Very toxic.  Can be found in the autobody
section of auto stores.

Klean-Strip EAR322 Aerosol Aircraft Remover, 18-Ounce
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VI13L6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ghqqCb1E8YW2S

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD


On Thu, Jan 17, 2019, 4:25 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List  Since I've decided to remove Touche's steering pedestal for refurbishing,
> a buddy of mine has offered to prime it and shoot it with Awlgrip left over
> from painting his mast.
>
> The issue now becomes removing the old powder coat.  I researched the
> topic and found a lot of comments about Benco B-17.  However, this stuff
> seems really nasty.  Not to mention the smallest quantity available is 5
> gallons which leaves me with a disposal problem.
>
> Couple sites mention aircraft stripper, whatever the heck that is.
>
> There are local shops where I can get it media blasted.
>
> Not excited about sanding or wire brushing.  Any options I'm missing?
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Removing powder coat

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Media blast, solvent wash.  Important to prime and sand before paint.
Chuck Gilchrest 


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 17, 2019, at 4:25 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Since I've decided to remove Touche's steering pedestal for refurbishing, a 
> buddy of mine has offered to prime it and shoot it with Awlgrip left over 
> from painting his mast.
> 
> The issue now becomes removing the old powder coat.  I researched the topic 
> and found a lot of comments about Benco B-17.  However, this stuff seems 
> really nasty.  Not to mention the smallest quantity available is 5 gallons 
> which leaves me with a disposal problem.
> 
> Couple sites mention aircraft stripper, whatever the heck that is.
> 
> There are local shops where I can get it media blasted.  
> 
> Not excited about sanding or wire brushing.  Any options I'm missing?
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 


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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Tablet for navigation

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Those look nice ☺
FYI – OpenCPN runs on Linux, Mac, or Windows and is free. You can run it at 
home too.

Joe
Coquina
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Re: Stus-List Removing powder coat

[robert via CnC-List]

'Dry Ice Blasting'  clean, efficient, fast, environmentally 
friendly... check out any Wickens websites for info and videos


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.


On 2019-01-17 5:25 p.m., Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
Since I've decided to remove Touche's steering pedestal for 
refurbishing, a buddy of mine has offered to prime it and shoot it 
with Awlgrip left over from painting his mast.


The issue now becomes removing the old powder coat.  I researched the 
topic and found a lot of comments about Benco B-17.  However, this 
stuff seems really nasty.  Not to mention the smallest quantity 
available is 5 gallons which leaves me with a disposal problem.


Couple sites mention aircraft stripper, whatever the heck that is.

There are local shops where I can get it media blasted.

Not excited about sanding or wire brushing.  Any options I'm missing?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Removing powder coat

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Since I've decided to remove Touche's steering pedestal for refurbishing, a
buddy of mine has offered to prime it and shoot it with Awlgrip left over
from painting his mast.

The issue now becomes removing the old powder coat.  I researched the topic
and found a lot of comments about Benco B-17.  However, this stuff seems
really nasty.  Not to mention the smallest quantity available is 5 gallons
which leaves me with a disposal problem.

Couple sites mention aircraft stripper, whatever the heck that is.

There are local shops where I can get it media blasted.

Not excited about sanding or wire brushing.  Any options I'm missing?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Prop Shaft Strut - Removal, Alignment, and Re-bedding - C&C 36-1 KCB

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I think Buck Algonquin made most of those shafts, and probably still do.

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim 
Rutherford via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2019 12:23 AM
To: cnc-list
Cc: Tim Rutherford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Prop Shaft Strut - Removal, Alignment, and Re-bedding - 
C&C 36-1 KCB

 

Looking for a lead on a replacement prop shaft strut for this boat. I think the 
strut spec numbers I'm looking for are shaft angle, aft drop, and offset and of 
course, a vendor lead would help too. 

 

It appears that the original strut has been replaced with one that is too long, 
among other things. 

 

The strut bed was ground down to 1/4" at the thinnest part aft, and the angle 
seems wrong because the bed is deeper aft than forward by more than an eighth 
of an inch. Also the base of the strut had been planed at an angle, thinner 
forward. And it still didn't fit!  The center-line of the strut bearing is 
still about 3/8" lower than the center-line of the log. When I bolt it all up 
the packless seal isn't centered on the shaft. I'm thinking it's time to start 
with a spec strut, or something close, and build the bed to fit. Or just run 
it; I'm not sure.




Tim Rutherford

C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé

Tampa, FL

tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com

 

 

On Sat, Dec 8, 2018 at 9:40 AM Stephen Thorne  wrote:

I suggest wax paper vs cellophane 

 

On Sat, Dec 8, 2018 at 8:07 AM Tim Rutherford via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Update. 

 

Shaft was riding hard against the the inside of the packless seal's carbon 
stator and hard against the  forward end of the cutless bearing.This all makes 
sense, since the shaft has always been hard to turn by hand and is reflected in 
the shaft wear patterns.

 

Local prop shop condemned the propeller shaft and coupling, supplied new 
replacements, and installed a new cutless bearing in the strut.

 

Martec two-blade folding prop is completely serviced and is on it's way back.

 

Reassembly: When I test fitted the strut and shaft, the shaft exits the log too 
high and to starboard proving the misalignment. Further examination of the 
packless seal stator confirms that the shaft was riding in that area. I ordered 
a new one (whole packless seal, not just a kit)  too. The face was also scored 
and it was worn off-center.

 

Looks like I'll be re-bedding the strut with better alignment. The plan is to 
assemble the shaft and the strut and raise it into position, then shim the 
shaft temporarily into the center of the log, to offset the shaft weight. Then 
raise the strut to it's existing bed to see which corner makes contact first 
and use that one (1) screw for general location for the next step. Then Ill 
prepare the bed with thickened epoxy and prepare the strut with a release agent 
(or cellophane?). I'll raise the strut until the base makes contact in the area 
where that one (1) screw is located and support it there with only slightly 
more pressure than it's own weight. I'll fill the three (3) remaining screw 
holes with epoxy and let it all set up.  After the epoxy has cured, I'll 
re-drill the remaining screw holes then re-bed the whole shebang with sealant.

 

Concurrently the rudder is almost out to refurbish bearings. Mine has the 
bronze thrust plate just under the helmsman's seat in the cockpit but that's a 
different thread!

 

Any shared experience is always welcomed!

 

--
Tim Rutherford

C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé

Tampa, FL

tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com

 

 

On Thu, Nov 29, 2018 at 6:13 PM Tim Rutherford  
wrote:

Neil, Matt, Dennis, and Len - thanks for your comments. Really appreciated!

 

--
Tim Rutherford

C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé

Tampa, FL

tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com

 

 

On Wed, Nov 28, 2018 at 7:53 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

Couple years ago, I removed Touche's strut to straighten it.  It was a 
straightforward job.  I did have to remove the fuel tank for access to the nuts.

 

Upon re-install, I used a cone shaped grinding stone to chamfer the 4 fastener 
holes on the underside.  This lets the sealant form an o-ring around the 
fastener.  I think I used 3M 4200 as the sealant.  I recall I used new 
fasteners with fender washer, washer and nylon lock nuts.

 

The joint around the perimeter of the strut base was faired with AwlFair, 
sanded and painted.

 

The alignment was pretty true before removal so I just re-installed without any 
further ado.  The lack of vibration after completion indicates that the job was 
successful.  If there had been any vibration, I would have done an alignment.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1#83

Mandevile, LA

 

On Nov 28, 2018 9:16 AM, "Tim Rutherford via CnC-List"  
wrote:

Prop shaft strut is weeping around the nuts inside the hull and externally the 
fairing shows cracks around the perimeter of the strut base although it doesn't 
feel loose. No slop in the Cutlass bearing. She's on the hard for bottom job 
and driveline

Re: Stus-List Tablet for navigation

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Hi,

I just saw these advertised locally:
https://navigationlaptops.wordpress.com/

It appears he is loading OpenCPS on a variety of ruggedized laptops. No
experience or association with this company, but thought it looked
interesting and pricing is pretty good.


On Thu, Jan 17, 2019 at 5:56 AM Adrian Humphreys via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We use an old 32 GB iPad2 (2011 or 2012) running iOS 9.3.5. It has no
> internal GPS or cellular.
>
> Installed iNavX and connect via bluetooth to an external GPS   (DUAL
> xgps150a). Load up all the raster charts we need at home via WiFi for free.
> With all the charts for New England to Canadian border loaded, we still
> have 21 GB available.
>
> Pros:
> - Cheap: iNavX is about $40; DUAL gps about $85; charts are free (except
> Canada).
> - Full-color raster charts.
> - Versatile: multiple uses for iPad; email, web, clock, count-down timing,
> notes, equipment manuals, for example.
> - Apparently will tie-in to AIS (we haven't tried that).
>
>
> Cons:
> - Bluetooth draws down the iPad battery; you want a connection to ship's
> power to run all day.
> - Not waterproof: ours lives on the nav table or swings into the
> companionway on a bracket. (The DUAL can see all the satellites through the
> cabin top.)
> - Screen can be hard to see in bright daylight.
> - Can't use vector charts.
>
> Net:
> A nice reliable system.
>
>
>
> Adrian Humphreys
> Epilogue - C&C 33-2
> Rockport, Maine
>
> > On Jan 14, 2019, at 7:50 PM, T power via CnC-List 
> wrote:
> >
> > Hi,
> > I would like to use an ipad mini 2 with the navionics app to plan and
> use for nav purposes on my boat, this will back up my chart plotter and
> paper charts.
> >
> > I read that to use the Navionics app on the water to purchase an ipad
> that has cellular capability.
> >
> > So I'm looking at Best buy and see ipads with 4G AT&T, Verizon, etc...
> >
> > So my Question is; Does it matter what provider is noted because I'm
> only using the cellular for the Navionics app?
> >
> > Thanks for any help.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Tom
> >
> > Tom Power
> > Invictus
> > C&C 30 MK1
> > Fredericton, NB
> > ___
> >
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
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Re: Stus-List Keel Bolt Washers

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Josh,

316L S/S is better than 316 for welding 
applications. The L (low carbon) helps prevent 
rust stains at the weld interface.


304 and even duplex S/S (2205, sometimes called 
18-8) will be fine for keelbolt washers if it is all that is available.


Cheers, Russ


At 08:09 AM 1/15/2019, you wrote:

Dan,Â

Mine came with SS washers.  You can most likely 
find them on McMaster-Carr or just make them out 
of SS sheet.  If I was making them I'd just cut 
them square.  You'll probably want no less than 
3/32".  There is nothing wrong with anything 
thicker.  You’ll find cutting SS is a 
challenge.  A machine shop can make these quick 
and easy.  When sourcing SS look for at least 316.  316L is even better.


You can make a backing plate with G-10 or FRP 
(also available on McMaster Carr).  I would use 
at least 1/4" and probably opt for 1/2".


It is quite frequent for owners to find that the 
"foundation" is not flat or square to the 
stud.  You can fix this by bedding the backing 
plates with thickened epoxy (Six10).  It is 
short sighted to allow the epoxy to bond the 
keel bolt in place.  Prevent this by using a 
FRP tube cut to act as a protective 
sleeve.  The sleeve should slide loose on the 
stud and tightly in the FPR backing 
plate.  Tighten the nut only enough to smoosh 
the leveling agent (thickened epoxy) out a 
little.  Let the epoxy cure and then torque the bolts as appropriate.


https://youtu.be/n6B0IPKQERc

https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-washers

https://www.mcmaster.com/fiberglass-hollow-rods

https://www.mcmaster.com/fiberglass


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea HawkÂ
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MDÂ



On Tue, Jan 15, 2019, 9:58 AM Dan via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Hi All, I know  this has been discussed many 
times here but this is a quick and simple one.


I'm going to be torquing my keel bolts this 
spring and I've noticed that the washers/spacers 
under some of the nuts are coroding and need to 
be replaced. I'd like to change them out for Stainless Steel.


What do you guys have for keel bolt 
washers/spacers and how did you get them made?


Thanks!

Dan
Breakaweigh
C&C44
Halifax, NS
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your contributions.  Each and every one is 
greatly appreciated.  If you want to support 
the list - use PayPal to send contribution 
--Â  Â https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with 
your contributions.  Each and every one is 
greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the 
list - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Tablet for navigation

[Adrian Humphreys via CnC-List]

We use an old 32 GB iPad2 (2011 or 2012) running iOS 9.3.5. It has no internal 
GPS or cellular.

Installed iNavX and connect via bluetooth to an external GPS   (DUAL xgps150a). 
Load up all the raster charts we need at home via WiFi for free. With all the 
charts for New England to Canadian border loaded, we still have 21 GB available.

Pros:
- Cheap: iNavX is about $40; DUAL gps about $85; charts are free (except 
Canada).
- Full-color raster charts.
- Versatile: multiple uses for iPad; email, web, clock, count-down timing, 
notes, equipment manuals, for example.
- Apparently will tie-in to AIS (we haven't tried that).


Cons:
- Bluetooth draws down the iPad battery; you want a connection to ship's power 
to run all day.
- Not waterproof: ours lives on the nav table or swings into the companionway 
on a bracket. (The DUAL can see all the satellites through the cabin top.)
- Screen can be hard to see in bright daylight.
- Can't use vector charts.

Net:
A nice reliable system.



Adrian Humphreys
Epilogue - C&C 33-2
Rockport, Maine

> On Jan 14, 2019, at 7:50 PM, T power via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> I would like to use an ipad mini 2 with the navionics app to plan and use for 
> nav purposes on my boat, this will back up my chart plotter and paper charts.
> 
> I read that to use the Navionics app on the water to purchase an ipad that 
> has cellular capability.
> 
> So I'm looking at Best buy and see ipads with 4G AT&T, Verizon, etc... 
> 
> So my Question is; Does it matter what provider is noted because I'm only 
> using the cellular for the Navionics app?
> 
> Thanks for any help.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Tom
> 
> Tom Power
> Invictus
> C&C 30 MK1
> Fredericton, NB
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Prop Shaft Strut - Removal, Alignment, and Re-bedding - C&C 36-1 KCB

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Tim

You might wish to start with having and experienced engine specialist see if 
the shaft can be aligned within tolerances with the existing in place strut.  
You would get a pretty clear idea of what is needed at that point

Mike
Persistence
1987 Frers 33 #16
Halifax, NS

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tim 
Rutherford via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2019 1:23 AM
To: cnc-list
Cc: Tim Rutherford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Prop Shaft Strut - Removal, Alignment, and Re-bedding - 
C&C 36-1 KCB

Looking for a lead on a replacement prop shaft strut for this boat. I think the 
strut spec numbers I'm looking for are shaft angle, aft drop, and offset and of 
course, a vendor lead would help too.

It appears that the original strut has been replaced with one that is too long, 
among other things.

The strut bed was ground down to 1/4" at the thinnest part aft, and the angle 
seems wrong because the bed is deeper aft than forward by more than an eighth 
of an inch. Also the base of the strut had been planed at an angle, thinner 
forward. And it still didn't fit!  The center-line of the strut bearing is 
still about 3/8" lower than the center-line of the log. When I bolt it all up 
the packless seal isn't centered on the shaft. I'm thinking it's time to start 
with a spec strut, or something close, and build the bed to fit. Or just run 
it; I'm not sure.

Tim Rutherford
C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé
Tampa, FL
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com


On Sat, Dec 8, 2018 at 9:40 AM Stephen Thorne 
mailto:stephenltho...@gmail.com>> wrote:
I suggest wax paper vs cellophane

On Sat, Dec 8, 2018 at 8:07 AM Tim Rutherford via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Update.

Shaft was riding hard against the the inside of the packless seal's carbon 
stator and hard against the  forward end of the cutless bearing.This all makes 
sense, since the shaft has always been hard to turn by hand and is reflected in 
the shaft wear patterns.

Local prop shop condemned the propeller shaft and coupling, supplied new 
replacements, and installed a new cutless bearing in the strut.

Martec two-blade folding prop is completely serviced and is on it's way back.

Reassembly: When I test fitted the strut and shaft, the shaft exits the log too 
high and to starboard proving the misalignment. Further examination of the 
packless seal stator confirms that the shaft was riding in that area. I ordered 
a new one (whole packless seal, not just a kit)  too. The face was also scored 
and it was worn off-center.

Looks like I'll be re-bedding the strut with better alignment. The plan is to 
assemble the shaft and the strut and raise it into position, then shim the 
shaft temporarily into the center of the log, to offset the shaft weight. Then 
raise the strut to it's existing bed to see which corner makes contact first 
and use that one (1) screw for general location for the next step. Then Ill 
prepare the bed with thickened epoxy and prepare the strut with a release agent 
(or cellophane?). I'll raise the strut until the base makes contact in the area 
where that one (1) screw is located and support it there with only slightly 
more pressure than it's own weight. I'll fill the three (3) remaining screw 
holes with epoxy and let it all set up.  After the epoxy has cured, I'll 
re-drill the remaining screw holes then re-bed the whole shebang with sealant.

Concurrently the rudder is almost out to refurbish bearings. Mine has the 
bronze thrust plate just under the helmsman's seat in the cockpit but that's a 
different thread!

Any shared experience is always welcomed!

--
Tim Rutherford
C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé
Tampa, FL
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com


On Thu, Nov 29, 2018 at 6:13 PM Tim Rutherford 
mailto:tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com>> wrote:
Neil, Matt, Dennis, and Len - thanks for your comments. Really appreciated!

--
Tim Rutherford
C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé
Tampa, FL
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com


On Wed, Nov 28, 2018 at 7:53 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Couple years ago, I removed Touche's strut to straighten it.  It was a 
straightforward job.  I did have to remove the fuel tank for access to the nuts.

Upon re-install, I used a cone shaped grinding stone to chamfer the 4 fastener 
holes on the underside.  This lets the sealant form an o-ring around the 
fastener.  I think I used 3M 4200 as the sealant.  I recall I used new 
fasteners with fender washer, washer and nylon lock nuts.

The joint around the perimeter of the strut base was faired with AwlFair, 
sanded and painted.

The alignment was pretty true before removal so I just re-installed without any 
further ado.  The lack of vibration after completion indicates that the job was 
successful.  If there had been any vibration, I would have done an alignment.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1#83
Mandevile