Hi Tim

You might wish to start with having and experienced engine specialist see if 
the shaft can be aligned within tolerances with the existing in place strut.  
You would get a pretty clear idea of what is needed at that point

Mike
Persistence
1987 Frers 33 #16
Halifax, NS

From: CnC-List [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Tim 
Rutherford via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2019 1:23 AM
To: cnc-list
Cc: Tim Rutherford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Prop Shaft Strut - Removal, Alignment, and Re-bedding - 
C&C 36-1 KCB

Looking for a lead on a replacement prop shaft strut for this boat. I think the 
strut spec numbers I'm looking for are shaft angle, aft drop, and offset and of 
course, a vendor lead would help too.

It appears that the original strut has been replaced with one that is too long, 
among other things.

The strut bed was ground down to 1/4" at the thinnest part aft, and the angle 
seems wrong because the bed is deeper aft than forward by more than an eighth 
of an inch. Also the base of the strut had been planed at an angle, thinner 
forward. And it still didn't fit!  The center-line of the strut bearing is 
still about 3/8" lower than the center-line of the log. When I bolt it all up 
the packless seal isn't centered on the shaft. I'm thinking it's time to start 
with a spec strut, or something close, and build the bed to fit. Or just run 
it; I'm not sure.

Tim Rutherford
C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé
Tampa, FL
[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>


On Sat, Dec 8, 2018 at 9:40 AM Stephen Thorne 
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
I suggest wax paper vs cellophane

On Sat, Dec 8, 2018 at 8:07 AM Tim Rutherford via CnC-List 
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
Update.

Shaft was riding hard against the the inside of the packless seal's carbon 
stator and hard against the  forward end of the cutless bearing.This all makes 
sense, since the shaft has always been hard to turn by hand and is reflected in 
the shaft wear patterns.

Local prop shop condemned the propeller shaft and coupling, supplied new 
replacements, and installed a new cutless bearing in the strut.

Martec two-blade folding prop is completely serviced and is on it's way back.

Reassembly: When I test fitted the strut and shaft, the shaft exits the log too 
high and to starboard proving the misalignment. Further examination of the 
packless seal stator confirms that the shaft was riding in that area. I ordered 
a new one (whole packless seal, not just a kit)  too. The face was also scored 
and it was worn off-center.

Looks like I'll be re-bedding the strut with better alignment. The plan is to 
assemble the shaft and the strut and raise it into position, then shim the 
shaft temporarily into the center of the log, to offset the shaft weight. Then 
raise the strut to it's existing bed to see which corner makes contact first 
and use that one (1) screw for general location for the next step. Then Ill 
prepare the bed with thickened epoxy and prepare the strut with a release agent 
(or cellophane?). I'll raise the strut until the base makes contact in the area 
where that one (1) screw is located and support it there with only slightly 
more pressure than it's own weight. I'll fill the three (3) remaining screw 
holes with epoxy and let it all set up.  After the epoxy has cured, I'll 
re-drill the remaining screw holes then re-bed the whole shebang with sealant.

Concurrently the rudder is almost out to refurbish bearings. Mine has the 
bronze thrust plate just under the helmsman's seat in the cockpit but that's a 
different thread!

Any shared experience is always welcomed!

--
Tim Rutherford
C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé
Tampa, FL
[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>


On Thu, Nov 29, 2018 at 6:13 PM Tim Rutherford 
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
Neil, Matt, Dennis, and Len - thanks for your comments. Really appreciated!

--
Tim Rutherford
C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé
Tampa, FL
[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>


On Wed, Nov 28, 2018 at 7:53 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
Couple years ago, I removed Touche's strut to straighten it.  It was a 
straightforward job.  I did have to remove the fuel tank for access to the nuts.

Upon re-install, I used a cone shaped grinding stone to chamfer the 4 fastener 
holes on the underside.  This lets the sealant form an o-ring around the 
fastener.  I think I used 3M 4200 as the sealant.  I recall I used new 
fasteners with fender washer, washer and nylon lock nuts.

The joint around the perimeter of the strut base was faired with AwlFair, 
sanded and painted.

The alignment was pretty true before removal so I just re-installed without any 
further ado.  The lack of vibration after completion indicates that the job was 
successful.  If there had been any vibration, I would have done an alignment.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1#83
Mandevile, LA

On Nov 28, 2018 9:16 AM, "Tim Rutherford via CnC-List" 
<[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:
Prop shaft strut is weeping around the nuts inside the hull and externally the 
fairing shows cracks around the perimeter of the strut base although it doesn't 
feel loose. No slop in the Cutlass bearing. She's on the hard for bottom job 
and driveline maintenance. I'm interested in your thoughts on how best to 
proceed to remedy the strut mount leak and cracks in the fairing.

From the few posts I have found here, it seems the struts are aligned and 
bedded onto a hard substrate and that the mounting holes were drilled with a 
close fit. That said, it seems that to remount the strut all that is required 
is to remove the fairing material and then simply remove and replace, seal, and 
re-fair.

My questions are:
1.) How best to assess whether comprehensive strut alignment check is necessary 
i.e., laser, scope, yadda-yadda? I'm thinking that if the shaft slides easily 
through the remounted strut and into center of the shaft log and seal, and 
visually appears dead on center through all the above, than I can proceed with 
the engine alignment. If not what, call a pro? I have more time than money, so 
DIY work is preferred.

2.) How significant is hull flex on these boats while on the hard? I plan final 
engine alignment after launch, but could loading on the yard stands cause strut 
alignment to appear skewed? BTW, I'm working with an independent Yanmar 
mechanic for the engine mounts and alignment.

2.) What material for fairing and sealing the strut bed? What's the method of 
application?

The prop is a folding Martec two-blade RH17DX10P-3 Eliptec with 4" of clearance 
to the hull; found the center pin broken on one end. It's back at Martec for 
refurb. The motor mounts were DF2205-2 going back with OE Yanmar mounts. While 
under way, the vibration caused the sail locker lid to sound like rubber 
marbles in a blender at a frequency that was probably 2X prop speed. It seemed 
like a lot of vibration but there was no change since I purchased the boat in 
June '17, and after about a hundred hours of motoring. Shaft seal is a PYI PSS 
that is getting a new maintenance kit, and of course, the strut a new cutlass 
bearing.

Please share your thoughts if you have been through this or something similar. 
All help is appreciated.
--
Tim Rutherford
C&C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé
Tampa, FL
[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>
813 748 4888 cel/text
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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