Re: Stus-List Emergency Tiller

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I have essentially the same emergency tiller and arrangement on my 1976
38mk2. The emergency tiller does actually work (I've fitted and tried it on
GPs and in case I need to actually use it someday). But to use it, you need
to remove the steering wheel and get it out of the way, and the effort
needed to use the tiller (which ends up being vertical and pretty close to
the axis of the rudder post) is quite high. I would certainly not want to be
using this setup for any appreciable time offshore.

Rick Brass
Washington, NC



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Nylander via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2019 11:22 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Gary Nylander 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Emergency Tiller

My emergency tiller is a silver colored metal tube about 2 feet long - about
1 1/2 inch diameter and has an angled flat part on one end - about 45
degrees off. The angled part is about 5/8 inch thick, has a square cut into
it and a slot on one side where a bolt goes through which tightens that part
around the square end of the rudder post which sticks out under your feet
while you are standing at the wheel.

In my view it is of limited usefulness. First it is so short and at a funny
angle. The only thing I could see it use for is to hold the rudder steady in
one place, there is not enough swing room to do any worthwhile steering.

It should be obvious when compared to all the other 'boat stuff' you have.

Gary Nylander
#593

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of T Smyth via
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2019 10:58 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: T Smyth 
Subject: Stus-List Emergency Tiller

My new (to me) C 30 MK1 (1976) has a location under the wheel apparently
for an emergency tiller.
I am trying to identify the emergency tiller among the many items that came
with the boat.
Could someone post a picture of the appropriate emergency tiller for a C
30 of that vintage (1976)?
Instructions for use would be nice as well; I have not found discussion of
this topic on the archives or in manuals.
Just planning...

Thanks!

Tom
C 30 MK 1 (!976)
Shangri-La
Augusta (GA) Sailing Club


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Stus-List Reversing

[robert via CnC-List]

Nathan:

I have a 32smaller boatwhat I did to help backing out from my 
slip was to tie a line , double looped with a knot for better grip on my 
toe rail just of forward of my starboard gatelet all lines go pull 
the boat backward on the slip and step up through the gate to the the 
binnacle and put the boat into reverse with already some backward motion 
to engage the rudder.  Short bursts of reverse and 
neutral...repeat.or if the conditions are right, just back out.


I have days when I get a northeast cross wind that blows my bow out no 
matter what.on those days, I just wait on the slip...all lines 
released except a special one mid ship I only use for this 
situationa line from the mid slip deck cleat with a brass snap 
shackle I clip to the toe railI wait for the puffs and then it 
subsidieswhen I feel it is right to let go, unshackle, pull on the 
line to get reverse before I put the engine in reverse and I have gotten 
out without touching the 'aircraft carrier' next to me.a Nonsuch 36, 
very wide and doesn't leave me much room between boats.


Everyone will figure out something that works for them, both getting out 
and getting in.  And I say this as I single hand most days so I have to 
figure something out that works for me.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.



On 2019-01-24 6:39 p.m., Nathan Post via CnC-List wrote:

On my 34 I found I have a lot of prop walk in reverse (worse than other boats I 
have helmed - probably due to the two blade folding prop).  I had a slip last 
summer that only made sense to go in forward (we only have a gate on starboard 
and the finger to starboard).  I tried a strategy that was discussed on the 
list last summer and found that it worked really well for me because I could 
get the boat moving backwards and get steerage before putting it in reverse:

1) take a long spring line from the bow and loop it around a dock cleat near 
the stern and take it back up on deck to my primary winch and cleat it.
2) Put the engine in gear forward and adjust the helm to hold the bow in place 
and remove all other dock lines (the engine and spring line hold the boat in 
place).
3) With all crew on board, put engine in neutral, center the helm, and start 
pulling the spring line in the cockpit (around the winch).  This gets the boat 
moving backwards.  Keep pulling until the cleat on the dock is even with the 
winch and then flip the line off the cleat.
4) once the line is off the cleat with the boat already moving back I can put 
her in reverse and accelerate backwards.
This works for single handing and with a crew managing the spring line - avoids 
having an inexperienced crew trying to jump on board after the boat is moving.

Having the boat moving so the rudder is working as a foil before putting it in 
reverse was the key to avoiding the stern going sideways into my neighbor 
rather than backwards.

Nathan Post
S/V Wisper, 1981 C
Malden MA


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Re: Stus-List Reversing my newport 41 Mk1 1977 Trinity

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

On my 34 I found I have a lot of prop walk in reverse (worse than other boats I 
have helmed - probably due to the two blade folding prop).  I had a slip last 
summer that only made sense to go in forward (we only have a gate on starboard 
and the finger to starboard).  I tried a strategy that was discussed on the 
list last summer and found that it worked really well for me because I could 
get the boat moving backwards and get steerage before putting it in reverse:

1) take a long spring line from the bow and loop it around a dock cleat near 
the stern and take it back up on deck to my primary winch and cleat it. 
2) Put the engine in gear forward and adjust the helm to hold the bow in place 
and remove all other dock lines (the engine and spring line hold the boat in 
place).  
3) With all crew on board, put engine in neutral, center the helm, and start 
pulling the spring line in the cockpit (around the winch).  This gets the boat 
moving backwards.  Keep pulling until the cleat on the dock is even with the 
winch and then flip the line off the cleat.
4) once the line is off the cleat with the boat already moving back I can put 
her in reverse and accelerate backwards.
This works for single handing and with a crew managing the spring line - avoids 
having an inexperienced crew trying to jump on board after the boat is moving.

Having the boat moving so the rudder is working as a foil before putting it in 
reverse was the key to avoiding the stern going sideways into my neighbor 
rather than backwards.

Nathan Post
S/V Wisper, 1981 C
Malden MA


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Re: Stus-List Reversing my newport 41 Mk1 1977 Trinity

[Mark Anthony Watson via CnC-List]

Wow


I love that - that is most the time that I have crew however Yes I 
single hand a lot also and have some deft dancing to make it work.  The 
crazy this is that  it does not do it all the time.  It is tidal and the 
other thing might be that I need to increase my speed to account for the


direction and speed of the current ...


Best regards

Mark Anthony Watson

Tartan 41 "Trinity"

 


On 1/24/2019 1:21 PM, robert via CnC-List wrote:

Mark:

You said " my stern still goes to starboard swinging me the wrong 
way."  Seems you are having more of an issue with a cross wind blowing 
your bow to port (I am assuming bow in, starboard dock?) shifting 
stern to port.


A club mate here has a 40' some boat with the same issue with his slip 
(bow in, starboard slip)what he did was run a line on the slip 
between the two far end dock cleatson the line was a block 
attached to 8 or 10 feet on line,  When he leaves the dock, usual his 
wife stands on the bow with the line in her hand and as he backs out, 
she holds the line with just the right tension to keep the bow 
parallel, the block runs down the line, and she walks back the deck 
with the line until she longer needs itthrows it on the dock.


But this only works if you have a crew mate.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.




Ladies and sea dogs,

Just when I think I have the reversing thing nailed,  I lose the bow 
even in little to no wind.  I have a right handed prop and should 
prop walk to port.


I have to reverse out of my slip into a narrow channel attempting to 
steer my stern to port.  Often enough my stern still goes to 
starboard swinging me the wrong way.


Should I pull out of dock faster ...???   I know I should not put 
full rudder


Early reviews of my boat suggest avoiding reverse - not an option

Anny help would be a delight otherwise I have to continue bruising 
the bow to starboard and the stern to port with boat hook pushing and 
pulling.


--


Best regards

Mark Anthony Watson

"A watch may stop however time goes on, don't waste time on bad watches"

Watson & Son
Buyers-Appraisers of Jewelry & Timepieces
210 Post Street, Suite 502
San Francisco, CA 94108
USA
P: 1-415-986-3303
E: m...@watsonandson.com 
WWW.watsonandson.com 

 




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Re: Stus-List Reversing my newport 41 Mk1 1977 Trinity

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

Can you come in stern to? 
Prop walk, etc. is exacerbated when moving slowly in forward or reverse. 
If there is open water near your slip, get going with rudder control in 
reverse, gird your loins, tell yourself you can do it and with judicious use of 
throttle, neutral and reverse drive your stern into the slip in one fell swoop! 
When, not if, you misjudge the approach, put her in forward, go back to open 
water and repeat.
This puts you and the stern well into the slip where you can more easily reach 
dock lines AND allows you to stop the boat using forward gear—for which it was 
designed.
Once one gets used to driving with the wheel and controls at their back, it 
gets easier.Plus leaving the slip in forward reduces any prop walk especially 
with some way on—not for the faint of heart but once your speed in forward or 
reverse allows the rudder to control your boat’s destiny, you can forget about 
prop walk!
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom1995 C 36XL/kcb

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com
 On Thursday, January 24, 2019, Mark Anthony Watson via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  Ladies and sea dogs, Just when I think I have the reversing thing nailed,  I 
lose the bow even in little to no wind.  I have a right handed prop and should 
prop walk to port.  
  I have to reverse out of my slip into a narrow channel attempting to steer my 
stern to port.  Often enough my stern still goes to starboard swinging me the 
wrong way.
   Should I pull out of dock faster ...???   I know I should not put full 
rudder 
  
  Early reviews of my boat suggest avoiding reverse - not an option 
  Anny help would be a delight otherwise I have to continue bruising the bow to 
starboard and the stern to port with boat hook pushing and pulling.
  -- 
 

  
 Best regards
 
 Mark Anthony Watson
 
 "A watch may stop however time goes on, don't waste time on bad watches" 
 
 Watson & Son
 Buyers-Appraisers of Jewelry & Timepieces
 210 Post Street, Suite 502
 San Francisco, CA 94108
 USA
 P: 1-415-986-3303
 E: m...@watsonandson.com
 WWW.watsonandson.com
    
     
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Stus-List Reversing my newport 41 Mk1 1977 Trinity

[robert via CnC-List]

Mark:

You said " my stern still goes to starboard swinging me the wrong 
way."  Seems you are having more of an issue with a cross wind blowing 
your bow to port (I am assuming bow in, starboard dock?) shifting stern 
to port.


A club mate here has a 40' some boat with the same issue with his slip 
(bow in, starboard slip)what he did was run a line on the slip 
between the two far end dock cleatson the line was a block attached 
to 8 or 10 feet on line,  When he leaves the dock, usual his wife stands 
on the bow with the line in her hand and as he backs out, she holds the 
line with just the right tension to keep the bow parallel, the block 
runs down the line, and she walks back the deck with the line until she 
longer needs itthrows it on the dock.


But this only works if you have a crew mate.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.




Ladies and sea dogs,

Just when I think I have the reversing thing nailed,  I lose the bow 
even in little to no wind.  I have a right handed prop and should prop 
walk to port.


I have to reverse out of my slip into a narrow channel attempting to 
steer my stern to port.  Often enough my stern still goes to starboard 
swinging me the wrong way.


Should I pull out of dock faster ...???   I know I should not put full 
rudder


Early reviews of my boat suggest avoiding reverse - not an option

Anny help would be a delight otherwise I have to continue bruising the 
bow to starboard and the stern to port with boat hook pushing and pulling.


--


Best regards

Mark Anthony Watson

"A watch may stop however time goes on, don't waste time on bad watches"

Watson & Son
Buyers-Appraisers of Jewelry & Timepieces
210 Post Street, Suite 502
San Francisco, CA 94108
USA
P: 1-415-986-3303
E: m...@watsonandson.com 
WWW.watsonandson.com 

 




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Re: Stus-List Reversing my newport 41 Mk1 1977 Trinity

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

What Andy said.

Start with a good short thrust of power in reverse (rudder amidships) to gain 
some sternway and switch to neutral (you have some speed now and no prop walk). 
use your rudder to steer your boat. The prop walk should actually help you to 
turn in the desired direction.

The cross wind is always an issue, but you should be able to control it. The 
faster you go, the better control of the direction you have.

good luck

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON

From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2019 15:14
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Reversing my newport 41 Mk1 1977 Trinity

When I upgraded the engine on my 40 I increased the prop pitch, which made her 
pull harder to port in reverse. What I would do is get some sternway on and 
then put the engine in neutral and I could steer just fine. I wouldn't worry 
about having the helm hard over. See if it works, there's certainly no harm in 
it.
It may not be so easy on the Newport 41 as the 40 has a huge rudder, making her 
a dream to handle, even at slow speeds. I did lose the bow at low speeds coming 
into the dock across the wind, thanks to all the windage from the furled 
headsail.

Andy

www.burtonsailing.com

Andrew Burton
139 Tuckerman Ave
Middeltown, RI
USA 02842
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260


On Thu, Jan 24, 2019 at 3:02 PM Mark Anthony Watson via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Ladies and sea dogs,

Just when I think I have the reversing thing nailed,  I lose the bow even in 
little to no wind.  I have a right handed prop and should prop walk to port.

I have to reverse out of my slip into a narrow channel attempting to steer my 
stern to port.  Often enough my stern still goes to starboard swinging me the 
wrong way.

Should I pull out of dock faster ...???   I know I should not put full rudder



Early reviews of my boat suggest avoiding reverse - not an option



Anny help would be a delight otherwise I have to continue bruising the bow to 
starboard and the stern to port with boat hook pushing and pulling.

--



Best regards

Mark Anthony Watson
[X]
"A watch may stop however time goes on, don't waste time on bad watches"

Watson & Son
Buyers-Appraisers of Jewelry & Timepieces
210 Post Street, Suite 502
San Francisco, CA 94108
USA
P: 1-415-986-3303
E: m...@watsonandson.com
WWW.watsonandson.com

[X]
   [X] 

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https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List Reversing my newport 41 Mk1 1977 Trinity

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

Can you come in stern to? 
Prop walk, etc. is exacerbated when moving slowly in forward or reverse. 
If there is open water near your slip, get going with rudder control in 
reverse, gird your loins, tell yourself you can do it and with judicious use of 
throttle, neutral and reverse drive your stern into the slip in one fell swoop! 
When, not if, you misjudge the approach, put her in forward, go back to open 
water and repeat.
This puts you and the stern well into the slip where you can more easily reach 
dock lines AND allows you to stop the boat using forward gear—for which it was 
designed.
Once one gets used to driving with the wheel and controls at their back, it 
gets easier.Plus leaving the slip in forward reduces any prop walk especially 
with some way on—not for the faint of heart but once your speed in forward or 
reverse allows the rudder to control your boat’s destiny, you can forget about 
prop walk!
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom1995 C 36XL/kcb

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com
 On Thursday, January 24, 2019, Mark Anthony Watson via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  
Ladies and sea dogs,
 
Just when I think I have the reversing thing nailed,  I lose the bow even in 
little to no wind.  I have a right handed prop and should prop walk to port.  
 
 
I have to reverse out of my slip into a narrow channel attempting to steer my 
stern to port.  Often enough my stern still goes to starboard swinging me the 
wrong way.
 
 
 Should I pull out of dock faster ...???   I know I should not put full rudder 
 
 

 
 
Early reviews of my boat suggest avoiding reverse - not an option
 

 
 
Anny help would be a delight otherwise I have to continue bruising the bow to 
starboard and the stern to port with boat hook pushing and pulling.
 
 -- 
 


 
 
 Best regards
 
 Mark Anthony Watson
 
 "A watch may stop however time goes on, don't waste time on bad watches" 
 
 Watson & Son
 Buyers-Appraisers of Jewelry & Timepieces
 210 Post Street, Suite 502
 San Francisco, CA 94108
 USA
 P: 1-415-986-3303
 E: m...@watsonandson.com
 WWW.watsonandson.com
    
     
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Re: Stus-List Reversing my newport 41 Mk1 1977 Trinity

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Hi Mark

Another suggestion might be to back into dock stern first and then drive out of 
slip in forward.  You can have your boat moving well in reverse when you are 
docking which will give you steerage for docking.  Throw into forward to stop.  
When you leave the slip to go sailing you will be in forward and have a ton of 
steerage.

Of course if it is too narrow a channel you may not have the required room to 
come out in forward….

Mike
Persistence
Halifax
www.hoytsailing.com


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark Anthony 
Watson via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2019 4:01 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Mark Anthony Watson
Subject: Stus-List Reversing my newport 41 Mk1 1977 Trinity


Ladies and sea dogs,

Just when I think I have the reversing thing nailed,  I lose the bow even in 
little to no wind.  I have a right handed prop and should prop walk to port.

I have to reverse out of my slip into a narrow channel attempting to steer my 
stern to port.  Often enough my stern still goes to starboard swinging me the 
wrong way.

Should I pull out of dock faster ...???   I know I should not put full rudder



Early reviews of my boat suggest avoiding reverse - not an option



Anny help would be a delight otherwise I have to continue bruising the bow to 
starboard and the stern to port with boat hook pushing and pulling.
--



Best regards

Mark Anthony Watson
[X]
"A watch may stop however time goes on, don't waste time on bad watches"

Watson & Son
Buyers-Appraisers of Jewelry & Timepieces
210 Post Street, Suite 502
San Francisco, CA 94108
USA
P: 1-415-986-3303
E: m...@watsonandson.com
WWW.watsonandson.com

[X]  [X] 

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Stus-List Changing the engine on a C 40

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

See this month's Cruising World for an article on changing the engine on
Peregrine (now "Hidden Hand).

Cheers
Andy

www.burtonsailing.com

Andrew Burton
139 Tuckerman Ave
Middeltown, RI
USA 02842
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260
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Re: Stus-List Reversing my newport 41 Mk1 1977 Trinity

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

When I upgraded the engine on my 40 I increased the prop pitch, which made
her pull harder to port in reverse. What I would do is get some sternway on
and then put the engine in neutral and I could steer just fine. I wouldn't
worry about having the helm hard over. See if it works, there's certainly
no harm in it.
It may not be so easy on the Newport 41 as the 40 has a huge rudder, making
her a dream to handle, even at slow speeds. I did lose the bow at low
speeds coming into the dock across the wind, thanks to all the windage from
the furled headsail.

Andy

www.burtonsailing.com

Andrew Burton
139 Tuckerman Ave
Middeltown, RI
USA 02842
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
phone  +401 965 5260


On Thu, Jan 24, 2019 at 3:02 PM Mark Anthony Watson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ladies and sea dogs,
>
> Just when I think I have the reversing thing nailed,  I lose the bow even
> in little to no wind.  I have a right handed prop and should prop walk to
> port.
>
> I have to reverse out of my slip into a narrow channel attempting to steer
> my stern to port.  Often enough my stern still goes to starboard swinging
> me the wrong way.
>
> Should I pull out of dock faster ...???   I know I should not put full
> rudder
>
>
> Early reviews of my boat suggest avoiding reverse - not an option
>
>
> Anny help would be a delight otherwise I have to continue bruising the bow
> to starboard and the stern to port with boat hook pushing and pulling.
> --
>
>
>
> Best regards
>
> Mark Anthony Watson
>
> "A watch may stop however time goes on, don't waste time on bad watches"
>
> Watson & Son
> Buyers-Appraisers of Jewelry & Timepieces
> 210 Post Street, Suite 502
> San Francisco, CA 94108
> USA
> P: 1-415-986-3303
> E: m...@watsonandson.com
> WWW.watsonandson.com
>
> 
> 
> 
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Reversing my newport 41 Mk1 1977 Trinity

[Mark Anthony Watson via CnC-List]

Ladies and sea dogs,

Just when I think I have the reversing thing nailed,  I lose the bow 
even in little to no wind.  I have a right handed prop and should prop 
walk to port.


I have to reverse out of my slip into a narrow channel attempting to 
steer my stern to port.  Often enough my stern still goes to starboard 
swinging me the wrong way.


Should I pull out of dock faster ...???   I know I should not put full 
rudder



Early reviews of my boat suggest avoiding reverse - not an option


Anny help would be a delight otherwise I have to continue bruising the 
bow to starboard and the stern to port with boat hook pushing and pulling.


--



Best regards

Mark Anthony Watson

"A watch may stop however time goes on, don't waste time on bad watches"

Watson & Son
Buyers-Appraisers of Jewelry & Timepieces
210 Post Street, Suite 502
San Francisco, CA 94108
USA
P: 1-415-986-3303
E: m...@watsonandson.com
WWW.watsonandson.com

 

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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Touche' steering system disassembly - issues of concern discovered

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Nice pics.  I need to look at the structure in that area.

Wish I had a drawing of that plate.

Dennis C.

On Thu, Jan 24, 2019 at 12:55 PM Neil Gallagher via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dennis,
>
> Here's some pics, and yes, the stbd side wire is a PO kludge, - the wire
> clamps, eye bolt, etc.  Your thread's got me looking at it, time  to add it
> to the project list.
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/4yE5o2R9T5ZxEDCy7
>
> Neil Gallagher
> Weatherly, 35-1
> Glen Cove, NY
>
>
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Touche' steering system disassembly - issues of concern discovered

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Dennis,

Here's some pics, and yes, the stbd side wire is a PO kludge, - the wire 
clamps, eye bolt, etc.  Your thread's got me looking at it, time  to add 
it to the project list.


https://photos.app.goo.gl/4yE5o2R9T5ZxEDCy7

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 1/24/2019 11:47 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

Joe,

Some pictures would be appreciated.  No hurry.  I won't tackle this 
job until after my ski trip (all of February).


Dennis C.

On Thu, Jan 24, 2019 at 8:05 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I would also put the original stops back. The bolt system is IMHO
sub-optimal at best.

I can send some photos and dimensions.

Joe

Coquina






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Re: Stus-List Prop Shaft Strut - Removal, Alignment, and Re-bedding - C 36-1 KCB

[Tim Rutherford via CnC-List]

Many thanks for your consideration and for your comments.

I have heard from several owners C 36's (with my exact boat model) and
from their photos have determined that the installed strut is likely the
one supplied by C from the factory and after technical consultation, I
think that the alignment issue can be mitigated with careful installation
of the existing parts.

Conversation with tech support at PYI about mounting tolerances of the PSS
dripless packing leads me to believe that, with what now amounts to shaft
log misalignment, suitable installation can be achieved by care in mounting
the bellows of the dripless packing. *In the end, engine/prop shaft/strut &
cutless bearing alignment have no issues,* and the angle of the shaft log
and it's effect on the shaft seal can be accommodated by tilted mounting of
the bellows, per their instructions. Their support tech even went on to say
that in more extreme cases, usually involving much higher RPMs, horsepower,
and misalignment, that PYI supplies over bored carbon blocks to accommodate
even higher mounting tolerances. Certainly the one I removed from service
was in a much worse situation and was working fine.

Perfect? No. Operationally suitable, reliable, and serviceable? Probably.

I really wanna go sailing...
--
Tim Rutherford
C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé
Tampa, FL


On Thu, Jan 24, 2019 at 10:51 AM Jerome Tauber via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Might find one with right dimensions. Jerry
> Hunter OEM Parts
> [image: 275x225x1]
> Hunter prop struts and shafts
> Everything you need for your power train
>
> http://sbowners.acemlnb.com/lt.php?s=a516042b0af6450bf9b39c6d664ca43e=1267A1621A1A48221
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Emergency Tiller

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

I have the same problem; my tiller is short (and no, that's not a euphemism). I 
put a 4 part block and tackle on each side and use that to steer. 
Alternatively, I could use my secondaries to control the tiller lines.

Andy
www.burtonsailing.com

Andrew Burton
139 Tuckerman Ave
Middletown, RI 
USA02842

www.burtonsailing.com
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Jan 24, 2019, at 11:21, Gary Nylander via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> My emergency tiller is a silver colored metal tube about 2 feet long - about
> 1 1/2 inch diameter and has an angled flat part on one end - about 45
> degrees off. The angled part is about 5/8 inch thick, has a square cut into
> it and a slot on one side where a bolt goes through which tightens that part
> around the square end of the rudder post which sticks out under your feet
> while you are standing at the wheel.
> 
> In my view it is of limited usefulness. First it is so short and at a funny
> angle. The only thing I could see it use for is to hold the rudder steady in
> one place, there is not enough swing room to do any worthwhile steering.
> 
> It should be obvious when compared to all the other 'boat stuff' you have.
> 
> Gary Nylander
> #593
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of T Smyth via
> CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2019 10:58 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: T Smyth 
> Subject: Stus-List Emergency Tiller
> 
> My new (to me) C 30 MK1 (1976) has a location under the wheel apparently
> for an emergency tiller.
> I am trying to identify the emergency tiller among the many items that came
> with the boat.
> Could someone post a picture of the appropriate emergency tiller for a C
> 30 of that vintage (1976)?
> Instructions for use would be nice as well; I have not found discussion of
> this topic on the archives or in manuals.
> Just planning...
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Tom
> C 30 MK 1 (!976)
> Shangri-La
> Augusta (GA) Sailing Club
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
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> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Gallley Sliders...

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

I made sliding doors out of teak plywood--they look great but not much lighter 
in color.

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD 
(Presently in Charleston SC for the winter)

> On Jan 24, 2019, at 11:38 AM, David via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Trying to brighten up the galley on our 81' 40-2.  .  Currently have smoke 
> acrylic sliders behind stove (storage for mugs, glasses what not).
> 
> Anybody, improve or upgrade these?
> 
> Looking for ideas.  Thanks in advance.
> 
> David F. Risch, J. D.
> Gulf Stream Associates, LLC  
> (401) 419-4650 
> 
>   Virus-free. www.avast.com
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Gallley Sliders...

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

We have plastic mirror instead for the sliders.  Nice and bright, we like
it.

Ken H.

On Thu, 24 Jan 2019 at 12:45, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I thought smoke acrylic WAS the upgrade.  LOL
>
> Originally Touche' had sliders that looked like white acoustical ceiling
> panels.  I replaced them with smoke acrylic panels.
>
> If you want white look at McMaster part http://www.mcmaster.com/#8650K113.
> I use that for headliner access panels.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Thu, Jan 24, 2019 at 10:39 AM David via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Trying to brighten up the galley on our 81' 40-2.  .  Currently have
>> smoke acrylic sliders behind stove (storage for mugs, glasses what not).
>>
>> Anybody, improve or upgrade these?
>>
>> Looking for ideas.  Thanks in advance.
>>
>> *David F. Risch, J. D.*
>>
>> *Gulf Stream Associates, LLC*
>>
>>
>> *(401) 419-4650 *
>>
>>
>> 
>>  Virus-free.
>> www.avast.com
>> 
>> <#m_-33805238341072734_m_3350640557282745001_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Touche' steering system disassembly - issues of concern discovered

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Joe,

Some pictures would be appreciated.  No hurry.  I won't tackle this job
until after my ski trip (all of February).

Dennis C.

On Thu, Jan 24, 2019 at 8:05 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I would also put the original stops back. The bolt system is IMHO
> sub-optimal at best.
>
> I can send some photos and dimensions.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Gallley Sliders...

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I thought smoke acrylic WAS the upgrade.  LOL

Originally Touche' had sliders that looked like white acoustical ceiling
panels.  I replaced them with smoke acrylic panels.

If you want white look at McMaster part http://www.mcmaster.com/#8650K113.
I use that for headliner access panels.

Dennis C.

On Thu, Jan 24, 2019 at 10:39 AM David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Trying to brighten up the galley on our 81' 40-2.  .  Currently have smoke
> acrylic sliders behind stove (storage for mugs, glasses what not).
>
> Anybody, improve or upgrade these?
>
> Looking for ideas.  Thanks in advance.
>
> *David F. Risch, J. D.*
>
> *Gulf Stream Associates, LLC*
>
>
> *(401) 419-4650 *
>
>
> 
>  Virus-free.
> www.avast.com
> 
> <#m_3350640557282745001_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Emergency Tiller

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

My emergency tiller is a silver colored metal tube about 2 feet long - about
1 1/2 inch diameter and has an angled flat part on one end - about 45
degrees off. The angled part is about 5/8 inch thick, has a square cut into
it and a slot on one side where a bolt goes through which tightens that part
around the square end of the rudder post which sticks out under your feet
while you are standing at the wheel.

In my view it is of limited usefulness. First it is so short and at a funny
angle. The only thing I could see it use for is to hold the rudder steady in
one place, there is not enough swing room to do any worthwhile steering.

It should be obvious when compared to all the other 'boat stuff' you have.

Gary Nylander
#593

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of T Smyth via
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2019 10:58 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: T Smyth 
Subject: Stus-List Emergency Tiller

My new (to me) C 30 MK1 (1976) has a location under the wheel apparently
for an emergency tiller.
I am trying to identify the emergency tiller among the many items that came
with the boat.
Could someone post a picture of the appropriate emergency tiller for a C
30 of that vintage (1976)?
Instructions for use would be nice as well; I have not found discussion of
this topic on the archives or in manuals.
Just planning...

Thanks!

Tom
C 30 MK 1 (!976)
Shangri-La
Augusta (GA) Sailing Club


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Stus-List Gallley Sliders...

[David via CnC-List]

Trying to brighten up the galley on our 81' 40-2.  .  Currently have smoke 
acrylic sliders behind stove (storage for mugs, glasses what not).

Anybody, improve or upgrade these?

Looking for ideas.  Thanks in advance.


David F. Risch, J. D.

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650

[https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif]
Virus-free. 
www.avast.com
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Stus-List Emergency Tiller

[T Smyth via CnC-List]

My new (to me) C 30 MK1 (1976) has a location under the wheel apparently for 
an emergency tiller.
I am trying to identify the emergency tiller among the many items that came 
with the boat.
Could someone post a picture of the appropriate emergency tiller for a C 30 
of that vintage (1976)?
Instructions for use would be nice as well; I have not found discussion of this 
topic on the archives or in manuals.
Just planning...

Thanks!

Tom
C 30 MK 1 (!976)
Shangri-La
Augusta (GA) Sailing Club


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Re: Stus-List Prop Shaft Strut - Removal, Alignment, and Re-bedding - C 36-1 KCB

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

Might find one with right dimensions. Jerry 
Hunter OEM Parts

Hunter prop struts and shafts
Everything you need for your power train
http://sbowners.acemlnb.com/lt.php?s=a516042b0af6450bf9b39c6d664ca43e=1267A1621A1A48221

Sent from my iPhone

> 
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Re: Stus-List Prop Shaft Strut - Removal, Alignment, and Re-bedding - C 36-1 KCB

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Instead of modifications to the strut, why not consider changing the
placement of the strut.  Due to the curvature of the hull a 1/2 inch
movement aft may give a surprising improvment to the situation.  A shaft
coupler/vibration dampener will add about 2 inches of length.  More
movement than that might necessitate a longer shaft.  A longer shaft is
probably cheaper and more available than a modified strut.

Of course, you could go with a shorter strut placed closer to the log but
be careful to consider the swing radius of the prop.

Josh Muckley
S /V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Wed, Jan 23, 2019, 12:52 PM Tim Rutherford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Mike,
>
> Thanks for sharing your thoughts.
>
> Mechanic says shaft to engine alignment is achievable but the issue is
> that, with the strut too long, the shaft is not parallel to the log and so
> dripless packing alignment is skewed.
> --
>
> Tim Rutherford
>
> C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé
>
> Tampa, FL
>
>
> On Thu, Jan 17, 2019 at 8:25 AM Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Tim
>>
>>
>>
>> You might wish to start with having and experienced engine specialist see
>> if the shaft can be aligned within tolerances with the existing in place
>> strut.  You would get a pretty clear idea of what is needed at that point
>>
>>
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Persistence
>>
>> 1987 Frers 33 #16
>>
>> Halifax, NS
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim
>> Rutherford via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Thursday, January 17, 2019 1:23 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list
>> *Cc:* Tim Rutherford
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Prop Shaft Strut - Removal, Alignment, and
>> Re-bedding - C 36-1 KCB
>>
>>
>>
>> Looking for a lead on a replacement prop shaft strut for this boat. I
>> think the strut spec numbers I'm looking for are shaft angle, aft drop, and
>> offset and of course, a vendor lead would help too.
>>
>>
>>
>> It appears that the original strut has been replaced with one that is too
>> long, among other things.
>>
>>
>>
>> The strut bed was ground down to 1/4" at the thinnest part aft, and the
>> angle seems wrong because the bed is deeper aft than forward by more than
>> an eighth of an inch. Also the base of the strut had been planed at an
>> angle, thinner forward. And it still didn't fit!  The center-line of the
>> strut bearing is still about 3/8" lower than the center-line of the log.
>> When I bolt it all up the packless seal isn't centered on the shaft. I'm
>> thinking it's time to start with a spec strut, or something close, and
>> build the bed to fit. Or just run it; I'm not sure.
>>
>>
>> Tim Rutherford
>>
>> C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé
>>
>> Tampa, FL
>>
>> tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Dec 8, 2018 at 9:40 AM Stephen Thorne 
>> wrote:
>>
>> I suggest wax paper vs cellophane
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Dec 8, 2018 at 8:07 AM Tim Rutherford via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Update.
>>
>>
>>
>> Shaft was riding hard against the the inside of the packless seal's
>> carbon stator and hard against the  forward end of the cutless bearing.This
>> all makes sense, since the shaft has always been hard to turn by hand and
>> is reflected in the shaft wear patterns.
>>
>>
>>
>> Local prop shop condemned the propeller shaft and coupling, supplied new
>> replacements, and installed a new cutless bearing in the strut.
>>
>>
>>
>> Martec two-blade folding prop is completely serviced and is on it's way
>> back.
>>
>>
>>
>> Reassembly: When I test fitted the strut and shaft, the shaft exits the
>> log too high and to starboard proving the misalignment. Further examination
>> of the packless seal stator confirms that the shaft was riding in that
>> area. I ordered a new one (whole packless seal, not just a kit)  too. The
>> face was also scored and it was worn off-center.
>>
>>
>>
>> Looks like I'll be re-bedding the strut with better alignment. The plan
>> is to assemble the shaft and the strut and raise it into position, then
>> shim the shaft temporarily into the center of the log, to offset the shaft
>> weight. Then raise the strut to it's existing bed to see which corner makes
>> contact first and use that one (1) screw for general location for the next
>> step. Then Ill prepare the bed with thickened epoxy and prepare the strut
>> with a release agent (or cellophane?). I'll raise the strut until the base
>> makes contact in the area where that one (1) screw is located and support
>> it there with only slightly more pressure than it's own weight. I'll fill
>> the three (3) remaining screw holes with epoxy and let it all set up.
>> After the epoxy has cured, I'll re-drill the remaining screw holes then
>> re-bed the whole shebang with sealant.
>>
>>
>>
>> Concurrently the rudder is almost out to refurbish bearings. Mine has the
>> bronze thrust plate just under the helmsman's seat in the cockpit but
>> that's a different thread!
>>
>>
>>
>> Any shared experience is 

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Touche' steering system disassembly - issues of concern discovered

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

At least the 35 MK I can be steered by the tiller. I think the 35 is the only 
boat I have sailed where the "emergency tiller" is actually a usable tiller. 
Before I had an autopilot I used it to steer from under the dodger.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck 
Gilchrest via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2019 9:23 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Touche' steering system disassembly - issues 
of concern discovered

Dennis,
While reusing a damaged sprocket isn't the best idea, the one thing I'd do to 
prevent the chain override in the future is to get the bolt and nut out of the 
chain and install a legit steering stop at the "quadrant" (really a radial 
drive).  As discussed by others, this would involve bolting an upright heavy 
duty pin on the drive wheel that would hit against a wood block on either side 
that was fiberglassed to a bulkhead.   If this sounds like too much work, the 
other option is to install a tether style rudder stop that mounts a loop or 
padeye to the drive wheel and anchors a high strength tether (usually a UHMWPE 
12 strand like Amsteel or similar) to a point on the hull or  below deck, thus 
limiting travel.  In tether rudder stops, a shock absorbing snubber is 
installed in the system to prevent the tether from ripping apart a bulkhead or 
below deck fitting.
Edson's Steering System Planning Guide found on their website can show you 
several ways to install rudder stops.  But relying on a bolt installed on the 
steering chain to limit rudder travel has the potential of disabling the entire 
steering system if pushed beyond the limit.  You may also consider chain 
replacement if the chain has been run over broken sprocket teeth for an 
extended period of time.
Finally, one of the main reasons Rob recommended changing out the chain/wire 
assembly for most steering systems is typically not due to excessive wear of 
the chain on the sprockets, but instead as a result of metal fatigue due to 
crevice corrosion between the link plates of the chain.  Stainless does not 
like to be deprived of oxygen and when it is, it performs very similarly to 
mild steel (it rusts!) and the inside portion of a chain that you can't see are 
the likely places for the corrosion to occur.  Bottom line, I never like using 
the terms "steering" and "failure" in the same sentence and I try to do 
everything possible to make sure my steering system is up to snuff on my 35 
year old boat.
Best of luck!
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram, MA
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Russ & Melody via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2019 8:56 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Touche' steering system disassembly - issues of concern 
discovered


Hi Dennis,

I will guess that the sprocket damage is as you surmise, chain stop bolt riding 
past the limit. Notice chain link gouge in port side housing too when it rode 
up on the sprocket. I expect it was an single event while backing down and the 
person lost control of the wheel. There is enough momentum there to put the 
wheel hard over in a second and cause the damage.

Your intuition is "bang on", reassemble without removing the sprocket. Trying 
to get that sprocket off the axle is flirting with disaster. Reassemble exactly 
as before, as the damaged teeth are not in the normally loaded area anyhow.

Cheers, Russ
ex - Sweet 35 mk-1


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Re: Stus-List Touche' steering system disassembly - issues of concern discovered

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Dennis,

While reusing a damaged sprocket isn't the best idea, the one thing I'd do
to prevent the chain override in the future is to get the bolt and nut out
of the chain and install a legit steering stop at the "quadrant" (really a
radial drive).  As discussed by others, this would involve bolting an
upright heavy duty pin on the drive wheel that would hit against a wood
block on either side that was fiberglassed to a bulkhead.   If this sounds
like too much work, the other option is to install a tether style rudder
stop that mounts a loop or padeye to the drive wheel and anchors a high
strength tether (usually a UHMWPE 12 strand like Amsteel or similar) to a
point on the hull or  below deck, thus limiting travel.  In tether rudder
stops, a shock absorbing snubber is installed in the system to prevent the
tether from ripping apart a bulkhead or below deck fitting.

Edson's Steering System Planning Guide found on their website can show you
several ways to install rudder stops.  But relying on a bolt installed on
the steering chain to limit rudder travel has the potential of disabling the
entire steering system if pushed beyond the limit.  You may also consider
chain replacement if the chain has been run over broken sprocket teeth for
an extended period of time.

Finally, one of the main reasons Rob recommended changing out the chain/wire
assembly for most steering systems is typically not due to excessive wear of
the chain on the sprockets, but instead as a result of metal fatigue due to
crevice corrosion between the link plates of the chain.  Stainless does not
like to be deprived of oxygen and when it is, it performs very similarly to
mild steel (it rusts!) and the inside portion of a chain that you can't see
are the likely places for the corrosion to occur.  Bottom line, I never like
using the terms "steering" and "failure" in the same sentence and I try to
do everything possible to make sure my steering system is up to snuff on my
35 year old boat.

Best of luck!

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Russ & Melody
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2019 8:56 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Touche' steering system disassembly - issues of
concern discovered

 


Hi Dennis,

I will guess that the sprocket damage is as you surmise, chain stop bolt
riding past the limit. Notice chain link gouge in port side housing too when
it rode up on the sprocket. I expect it was an single event while backing
down and the person lost control of the wheel. There is enough momentum
there to put the wheel hard over in a second and cause the damage. 

Your intuition is "bang on", reassemble without removing the sprocket.
Trying to get that sprocket off the axle is flirting with disaster.
Reassemble exactly as before, as the damaged teeth are not in the normally
loaded area anyhow.

Cheers, Russ
ex - Sweet 35 mk-1




 

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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Touche' steering system disassembly - issues of concern discovered

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I would also put the original stops back. The bolt system is IMHO sub-optimal 
at best.
I can send some photos and dimensions.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ & 
Melody via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2019 8:56 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Touche' steering system disassembly - issues 
of concern discovered


Hi Dennis,

I will guess that the sprocket damage is as you surmise, chain stop bolt riding 
past the limit. Notice chain link gouge in port side housing too when it rode 
up on the sprocket. I expect it was an single event while backing down and the 
person lost control of the wheel. There is enough momentum there to put the 
wheel hard over in a second and cause the damage.

Your intuition is "bang on", reassemble without removing the sprocket. Trying 
to get that sprocket off the axle is flirting with disaster. Reassemble exactly 
as before, as the damaged teeth are not in the normally loaded area anyhow.

Cheers, Russ
ex - Sweet 35 mk-1





At 12:50 PM 1/23/2019, you wrote:

Well, I disassembled Touche's steering system yesterday for a lng overdue 
maintenance session.  As in it's never been done in 47 years!  Touche's 
steering system is by Morch.

If you haven't checked your steering system, maybe this will inspire you to do 
so.
Concern 2.  Some of the teeth on the chain sprocket were damaged.  This was a 
complete surprise.

  *   This was apparently caused by the way C/Morch made stops to limit the 
travel of the rudder.  They put a bolt at each end of the chain. The bolts 
must have caused the damage when the wheel reached its limit.
  *   Note the two bolts with washers and nuts through the links of the chain 
here:Â  https://drive.google.com/open?id=1nvJzh8xWDgetBCEE8eeOAtz4-up4ZvCf
Next steps. Â

  *   The sprocket.  H.  The chain makes a full 180 degree wrap over the 
sprocket.  I believe there are plenty of undamaged teeth that will work.  On 
the other hand, I could try to get the sprocket off the shaft and have a 
machine shop make a new one.  I think that would be a risky option.  First, 
I'm not sure how I would remove the sprocket.  It has set screws ( 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=12GbE75ERXZGgz_NalJ93RcXf6rKvL5fi ).  I 
removed a small one on the sprocket and a larger one on a collar adjacent to 
it.  I suspect there is a keyway on the sprocket.  It showed no signs of 
moving.  There are some inventive ways to try to pull the shaft but again, 
they all have risk.  Then there's the issue of the bearings.  If I muck up 
the bearings, I'm screwed. Â
  *   Give some thought to a better way to stop the wheel at the travel limits.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Touche' steering system disassembly - issues of concern discovered

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis,

I will guess that the sprocket damage is as you 
surmise, chain stop bolt riding past the limit. 
Notice chain link gouge in port side housing too 
when it rode up on the sprocket. I expect it was 
an single event while backing down and the person 
lost control of the wheel. There is enough 
momentum there to put the wheel hard over in a second and cause the damage.


Your intuition is "bang on", reassemble without 
removing the sprocket. Trying to get that 
sprocket off the axle is flirting with disaster. 
Reassemble exactly as before, as the damaged 
teeth are not in the normally loaded area anyhow.


Cheers, Russ
ex - Sweet 35 mk-1





At 12:50 PM 1/23/2019, you wrote:
Well, I disassembled Touche's steering system 
yesterday for a lng overdue maintenance 
session.  As in it's never been done in 47 
years!  Touche's steering system is by Morch.


If you haven't checked your steering system, 
maybe this will inspire you to do so.


Concern 2.  Some of the teeth on the chain 
sprocket were damaged.  This was a complete surprise.
   * This was apparently caused by the way 
C/Morch made stops to limit the travel of the 
rudder.  They put a bolt at each end of the 
chain. The bolts must have caused the damage when the wheel reached its limit.
   * Note the two bolts with washers and nuts 
through the links of the chain 
here:Â 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1nvJzh8xWDgetBCEE8eeOAtz4-up4ZvCf


Next steps. Â
   * The sprocket.  H.  The chain makes a 
full 180 degree wrap over the sprocket.  I 
believe there are plenty of undamaged teeth 
that will work.  On the other hand, I could 
try to get the sprocket off the shaft and have 
a machine shop make a new one.  I think that 
would be a risky option.  First, I'm not sure 
how I would remove the sprocket.  It has set 
screws 
(https://drive.google.com/open?id=12GbE75ERXZGgz_NalJ93RcXf6rKvL5fi). 
I removed a small one on the sprocket and a 
larger one on a collar adjacent to it.  I 
suspect there is a keyway on the sprocket.  It 
showed no signs of moving.  There are some 
inventive ways to try to pull the shaft but 
again, they all have risk.  Then there's the 
issue of the bearings.  If I muck up the bearings, I'm screwed. Â
   * Give some thought to a better way to stop 
the wheel at the travel limits.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Touche' steering system disassembly - issues of concern discovered

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

I have the aluminum stops as well.
As for the 10 year replacement cycle……cough……um………I am on the second cable 
since 1973.
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C 35 MK I


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2019 9:14 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Touche' steering system disassembly - issues 
of concern discovered

Don't knowabout the stops but Touche' originally had the engine controls on the 
starboard bulkhead also.  I moved them to the pedestal when I repowered with 
the diesel.  Ifilled thehole with a fuel guage.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Jan 23, 2019, 7:31 PM Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
Dennis,

Thanks for the info, I'm going to have to look into my steering, also most 
likely also 47 yrs without an overhaul.

I note two differences between your system and mine:
- instead of bolts through the chain to limit the travel, mine has an aluminum 
plate bolted to the underside of the quadrant with "fingers" on each side which 
in turn contact a plate on each side of a centerline upright at the limiting 
angle,
-while your system has the engine controls in the pedestal, mine has them 
completely separate on the starboard side of the after cockpit.

Makes me wonder if C had different methods, particularly the angle stop, or 
if one was modified by a PO.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


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