Re: Stus-List C&C 44 Harken rudder bearings!

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Steve;

 

You should also think about contacting an industrial bearing house in a large 
town near you. You will need the ID, OD, thickness, and type/material of the 
bearing. There might also be some markings on the race of the bearing. A good 
bearing distributor has a very good chance of being able to cross reference or 
find a suitable replacement.

 

Specialized, low volume ball and roller bearings are ridiculously expensive to 
make. $300, $400, or more is not uncommon for anything really special. And it 
take a lot of pretty sophisticated machining and heat treating equipment to 
make bearings. So most bearings are made by a few manufacturers, and may be 
marked (private labeled) for the specific seller. It’s sort of like Orange 
Juice – my Uncle ran an plant in Florida that made orange juice. They did the 
brand that Bing Crosby hawked on TV (I don’t recall the brand but I do remember 
him talking about the “Parson Brown” oranges they used)…. The plant private 
labeled that brand of juice, and 35 others.

 

So check out industrial bearing sources, not just boat part sources.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck 
Gilchrest via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 1:44 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 44 Harken rudder bearings!

 

Steve,

Harken has been out of the rudder bearing business for nearly 15 years and no 
longer provide service for those items.  Edson jumped in with replacement 
Harken bearings for a while, but they too got out of the bearing business.  I’d 
say the best bet would be to determine the Harken stock number of the upper and 
lower bearings (possibly in the boat service manual) and then contact PYI in 
Washington State about replacement bearings from Jefa.   They currently supply 
all the J-Boats with roller rudder bearings.  Note that the bearing generally 
need to be replaced in pairs (upper and lower)  as that’s really the only way 
to insure proper bearing alignment.  

If you can deflect the tip of the rudder more than 1 inch, either side to side, 
or front and back, there’s likely sufficient wear to the bearing races that 
would require replacement.

You could also use a plain bearing set, from a company such as Tides Marine, 
but it would need to fit the ID/OD/ and height to be effective.  Does your boat 
have a stainless steel or composite rudder post?

 

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 Landfall 35

Padanaram, MA 

 

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > On Behalf Of Steve Martin via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 12:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Steve Martin mailto:stevemartin...@yahoo.ca> >
Subject: Stus-List C&C 44 Harken rudder bearings!

 

Hi again, I'm wondering if anyone can give me the name of someone in the 
Saugeen Shores, lake huron, On. area that can inspect my rudder bearings for 
advice... I spoke with Don Casey and his advice was to have someone with 
experience/knowledge on the C&C's with harken bearings actually look at it as 
there can be a few different things wrong and some are less expensive fixes 
than others... 

So, if anyone has the name of someone that could help I'd greatly appreciate it.

Thanks

Steve

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 

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Re: Stus-List epoxy or not

[Barbara L. Hickson via CnC-List]

:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: John Conklin 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

Me too 2nd  the vote for the stainless! 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ux528c82YTnHOi5ufTJ63xuGtFAm7lYQ

John Conklin

On Mon, Feb 18, 2019, 6:31 PM Bev Parslow via CnC-List https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2019 07:48:56 -0600
From: Frederick G Street 
To: David via CnC-List 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
Message-ID: <388d14e4-386c-4e57-9b2d-a2f6ad6aa...@postaudio.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

+1 on AwlWood ? I did my handrails and dorade boxes a couple of years ago, and 
they still look great!

? Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI  :^(

> On Feb 18, 2019, at 5:36 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> You might want to investigate AwlWood MA 
> <https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=97753> 
> from AwlGrip. I?m using it and like it.
> 
> Regards,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin?s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>
> 
>> On Feb 18, 2019, at 6:30 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>> 
>> Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I epoxy 
>> and then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the epoxy?
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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2019 10:18:08 -0500
From: Dreuge 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
Message-ID: <65e4cee0-dac8-43b6-b56d-ef21cb064...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

I?m a big stainless fan, but not so much for handrails in the summer sun.  I 
was seriously considering stainless for my handrails as I had a friend who went 
that route.  But when I went to admire and be inspired by his rails, I grabbed 
ahold of one and nearly got 2nd degree burn. The impression I got was that a 
hot rail is a safety concern.  

I?m thinking of HDPE rails (aka a Starboard equivalent) may be the way to go.  
While  StarBoard/SeaBoard  are a bit pricey, there are equivalents such as  
outdoor grade HDPE or UV stabilized HDPE sign boards which cost nearly half as 
much.



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Feb 18, 2019, at 10:11 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2019 21:15:43 -0500
> From: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>>
> To: "C&C List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
> Message-ID:
>      <mailto:ca+zacrbqcw3b5szxr2q4ehfo45jy2gcald0yyjfb9dzhhe2...@mail.gmail.com>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Replace with stainless steel.  I think I paid $100 for each rail.  Custom
> made to fit the original holes.
> 
> Whitewatermarine.com <http://whitewatermarine.com/>
> 
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA 
> <https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA>
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 

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--

End of CnC-List Digest, Vol 157, Issue 38
*



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Stus-List C&C Facebook page

[Barbara L. Hickson via CnC-List]

Y’all gotta get on this FB page!  Awesome info, photos and connections. 



C&C Owners Group Just sayin’___

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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[David via CnC-List]

I have stripped twice. 6 coats of Cetol with one maintenance coat per season.  
Done.

>From my Android


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Jim Watts via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 5:31:53 PM
To: 1 CnC List
Cc: Jim Watts
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

I skipped the varnish and the epoxy and used Cetol.
I would never use epoxy on any exterior wood that you can't cover. If you can 
cover it, you don't need epoxy.
One ding in the epoxy finish and you are pretty much guaranteed to have to wood 
them down and start over.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On Tue, 19 Feb 2019 at 13:14, Steven A. Demore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Another 2 cents.  I would use penetrating epoxy on them.  It soaks into the 
wood and seals everything (not to mention looks exceptional).  Since the epoxy 
isn't UV protected, cover it with 3 or 4 coats of varnish.  You may have to 
clean and reapply the varnish as usual, but the penetrating epoxy will last for 
life and keep the wood sealed.

Steve

 Original Message 
Subject: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
From: Bev Parslow mailto:bparslo...@yahoo.ca>>
Date: Mon, February 18, 2019 6:30 pm
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I epoxy and 
then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the epoxy?
___

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___

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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Replaced mine with ss here on Lake Ontario and never looked back.  Huge epoxy 
fan but I Don’t think I would epoxy teak, you’ll be maintaining the varnish 
anyway.  I don’t think the epoxy adds any real benefit. 

Dave 
33-2

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 19, 2019, at 6:44 PM, Bill Coleman  wrote:
> 
> Whoa – that’s the best of both worlds – and driving  distance for the kid!
> Good find, Dennis!
>  
>  
> Bill Coleman
> C&C 39 Erie, PA
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 6:18 PM
> To: CnClist
> Cc: Dennis C.
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
>  
> Why not plastic teak handrails?
>  
> https://www.plasteak.com/plasteak-recycled-plastic-product/custom-handrails-78in-wide
>  
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Tue, Feb 19, 2019, 8:19 AM Dreuge via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> I’m a big stainless fan, but not so much for handrails in the summer sun.  I 
> was seriously considering stainless for my handrails as I had a friend who 
> went that route.  But when I went to admire and be inspired by his rails, I 
> grabbed ahold of one and nearly got 2nd degree burn The impression I got was 
> that a hot rail is a safety concern.  
>  
> I’m thinking of HDPE rails (aka a Starboard equivalent) may be the way to go. 
>   While  StarBoard/SeaBoard  are a bit pricey, there are equivalents such as  
> outdoor grade HDPE or UV stabilized HDPE sign boards which cost nearly half 
> as much.
>  
>  
>  
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C Landfall 38 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>  
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
> 
> 
>  
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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Yes I like that stuff! I think Beneteau (cough) also uses it just for a nice 
toe rail on newer models.

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon

On Feb 19, 2019, at 6:17 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Why not plastic teak handrails?

https://www.plasteak.com/plasteak-recycled-plastic-product/custom-handrails-78in-wide

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Feb 19, 2019, 8:19 AM Dreuge via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I’m a big stainless fan, but not so much for handrails in the summer sun.  I 
was seriously considering stainless for my handrails as I had a friend who went 
that route.  But when I went to admire and be inspired by his rails, I grabbed 
ahold of one and nearly got 2nd degree burn. The impression I got was that a 
hot rail is a safety concern.

I’m thinking of HDPE rails (aka a Starboard equivalent) may be the way to go.   
While  StarBoard/SeaBoard  are a bit pricey, there are equivalents such as  
outdoor grade HDPE or UV stabilized HDPE sign boards which cost nearly half as 
much.



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/


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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Whoa – that’s the best of both worlds – and driving  distance for the kid!

Good find, Dennis! 

 

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PAanimated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 6:18 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

 

Why not plastic teak handrails?

 

https://www.plasteak.com/plasteak-recycled-plastic-product/custom-handrails-78in-wide

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Feb 19, 2019, 8:19 AM Dreuge via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-listcom> > wrote:

I’m a big stainless fan, but not so much for handrails in the summer sun.  I 
was seriously considering stainless for my handrails as I had a friend who went 
that route.  But when I went to admire and be inspired by his rails, I grabbed 
ahold of one and nearly got 2nd degree burn The impression I got was that a hot 
rail is a safety concern.  

 

I’m thinking of HDPE rails (aka a Starboard equivalent) may be the way to go.   
While  StarBoard/SeaBoard  are a bit pricey, there are equivalents such as  
outdoor grade HDPE or UV stabilized HDPE sign boards which cost nearly half as 
much.

 

 

 

-
Paul E.

1981 C&C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/





 

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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Why not plastic teak handrails?

https://www.plasteak.com/plasteak-recycled-plastic-product/custom-handrails-78in-wide

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Feb 19, 2019, 8:19 AM Dreuge via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I’m a big stainless fan, but not so much for handrails in the summer sun.
> I was seriously considering stainless for my handrails as I had a friend
> who went that route.  But when I went to admire and be inspired by his
> rails, I grabbed ahold of one and nearly got 2nd degree burn. The
> impression I got was that a hot rail is a safety concern.
>
> I’m thinking of HDPE rails (aka a Starboard equivalent) may be the way to
> go.   While  StarBoard/SeaBoard  are a bit pricey, there are equivalents
> such as  outdoor grade HDPE or UV stabilized HDPE sign boards which cost
> nearly half as much.
>
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C Landfall 38
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

I skipped the varnish and the epoxy and used Cetol.
I would never use epoxy on any exterior wood that you can't cover. If you
can cover it, you don't need epoxy.
One ding in the epoxy finish and you are pretty much guaranteed to have to
wood them down and start over.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On Tue, 19 Feb 2019 at 13:14, Steven A. Demore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Another 2 cents.  I would use penetrating epoxy on them.  It soaks into
> the wood and seals everything (not to mention looks exceptional).  Since
> the epoxy isn't UV protected, cover it with 3 or 4 coats of varnish.  You
> may have to clean and reapply the varnish as usual, but the penetrating
> epoxy will last for life and keep the wood sealed.
>
> Steve
>
>
>  Original Message 
> Subject: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
> From: Bev Parslow 
> Date: Mon, February 18, 2019 6:30 pm
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I
> epoxy and then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the
> epoxy?
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Steven A. Demore via CnC-List]

Another 2 cents.  I would use penetrating epoxy on them.  It soaks into the wood and seals everything (not to mention looks exceptional).  Since the epoxy isn't UV protected, cover it with 3 or 4 coats of varnish.  You may have to clean and reapply the varnish as usual, but the penetrating epoxy will last for life and keep the wood sealed. 
Steve
 

 Original Message Subject: Stus-List Epoxy or not.From: Bev Parslow Date: Mon, February 18, 2019 6:30 pmTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I epoxy and then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the epoxy?


___

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Re: Stus-List C&C 44 Harken rudder bearings!

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

 Chuck; I do not have a bearing problem ( I hope), however I want to thank you 
for the valuable information about these issues: I clip and save all of this 
collective wisdom for the possibility that I may need this information and if 
that day comes, I will have a ready source of inside knowledge... ; in 
addition, given that our boats were built on an assembly line, it is helpful 
insight to understand my own boat...thanks for making the effort to explain the 
history and background on these issues!
 
Richard
 s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 596
Richard N. Bush  
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
Sent: Tue, Feb 19, 2019 1:45 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 44 Harken rudder bearings!

#yiv0879567975 #yiv0879567975 -- _filtered #yiv0879567975 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 
6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv0879567975 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 
3 2 4;} #yiv0879567975 #yiv0879567975 p.yiv0879567975MsoNormal, #yiv0879567975 
li.yiv0879567975MsoNormal, #yiv0879567975 div.yiv0879567975MsoNormal 
{margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;} 
#yiv0879567975 a:link, #yiv0879567975 span.yiv0879567975MsoHyperlink 
{color:blue;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv0879567975 a:visited, 
#yiv0879567975 span.yiv0879567975MsoHyperlinkFollowed 
{color:purple;text-decoration:underline;} #yiv0879567975 
p.yiv0879567975msonormal0, #yiv0879567975 li.yiv0879567975msonormal0, 
#yiv0879567975 div.yiv0879567975msonormal0 
{margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;} 
#yiv0879567975 span.yiv0879567975EmailStyle18 
{font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;} #yiv0879567975 
.yiv0879567975MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;} 
_filtered #yiv0879567975 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;} #yiv0879567975 
div.yiv0879567975WordSection1 {} #yiv0879567975 Steve,Harken has been out of 
the rudder bearing business for nearly 15 years and no longer provide service 
for those items.  Edson jumped in with replacement Harken bearings for a while, 
but they too got out of the bearing business.  I’d say the best bet would be to 
determine the Harken stock number of the upper and lower bearings (possibly in 
the boat service manual) and then contact PYI in Washington State about 
replacement bearings from Jefa.   They currently supply all the J-Boats with 
roller rudder bearings.  Note that the bearing generally need to be replaced in 
pairs (upper and lower)  as that’s really the only way to insure proper bearing 
alignment.  If you can deflect the tip of the rudder more than 1 inch, either 
side to side, or front and back, there’s likely sufficient wear to the bearing 
races that would require replacement.You could also use a plain bearing set, 
from a company such as Tides Marine, but it would need to fit the ID/OD/ and 
height to be effective.  Does your boat have a stainless steel or composite 
rudder post?  Chuck GilchrestS/V Half Magic1983 Landfall 35Padanaram, MA   
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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Starboard.  Probably could.

From: John Irvin via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 11:34 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: John Irvin 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

I have always wondered if you could make them from the plastic used in cutting 
boards, etc. Forget what it’s called. Any experience out there?


Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 19, 2019, at 10:31 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 wrote:


  I would not expect the rails (or any other SS parts) to be hot while sailing. 
I guess different story when you are stationary (at the dock or on anchor).

  Marek
  1994 C270 Legato
  Ottawa, ON

  From: Dreuge via CnC-List 
  Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 10:19
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Cc: Dreuge 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

  I’m a big stainless fan, but not so much for handrails in the summer sun.  I 
was seriously considering stainless for my handrails as I had a friend who went 
that route.  But when I went to admire and be inspired by his rails, I grabbed 
ahold of one and nearly got 2nd degree burn. The impression I got was that a 
hot rail is a safety concern.  

  I’m thinking of HDPE rails (aka a Starboard equivalent) may be the way to go. 
  While  StarBoard/SeaBoard  are a bit pricey, there are equivalents such as  
outdoor grade HDPE or UV stabilized HDPE sign boards which cost nearly half as 
much.



  -
  Paul E.
  1981 C&C Landfall 38 
  S/V Johanna Rose
  Fort Walton Beach, FL

  http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/


On Feb 18, 2019, at 10:11 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2019 21:15:43 -0500
From: Josh Muckley 
To: "C&C List" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Replace with stainless steel.  I think I paid $100 for each rail.  Custom
made to fit the original holes.

Whitewatermarine.com

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



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Re: Stus-List C&C 44 Harken rudder bearings!

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Steve,

Harken has been out of the rudder bearing business for nearly 15 years and no 
longer provide service for those items.  Edson jumped in with replacement 
Harken bearings for a while, but they too got out of the bearing business.  I’d 
say the best bet would be to determine the Harken stock number of the upper and 
lower bearings (possibly in the boat service manual) and then contact PYI in 
Washington State about replacement bearings from Jefa.   They currently supply 
all the J-Boats with roller rudder bearings.  Note that the bearing generally 
need to be replaced in pairs (upper and lower)  as that’s really the only way 
to insure proper bearing alignment.  

If you can deflect the tip of the rudder more than 1 inch, either side to side, 
or front and back, there’s likely sufficient wear to the bearing races that 
would require replacement.

You could also use a plain bearing set, from a company such as Tides Marine, 
but it would need to fit the ID/OD/ and height to be effective.  Does your boat 
have a stainless steel or composite rudder post?

 

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 Landfall 35

Padanaram, MA 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Steve Martin via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 12:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steve Martin 
Subject: Stus-List C&C 44 Harken rudder bearings!

 

Hi again, I'm wondering if anyone can give me the name of someone in the 
Saugeen Shores, lake huron, On. area that can inspect my rudder bearings for 
advice... I spoke with Don Casey and his advice was to have someone with 
experience/knowledge on the C&C's with harken bearings actually look at it as 
there can be a few different things wrong and some are less expensive fixes 
than others... 

So, if anyone has the name of someone that could help I'd greatly appreciate it.

Thanks

Steve

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 

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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

 I second Jim's solution with the handrail covers, I have two sets...one for 
summer and one for winter layup..., I'm thinking about a cover for my 
cover...or maybe not... 
 
Richard
 
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596; currently between floods...

Richard N. Bush  
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: Jim Reinardy via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Jim Reinardy 
Sent: Tue, Feb 19, 2019 11:32 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

  My solution was to have some Sunbrella covers made for the wood handrails.  
Takes nearly all the maintenance work away.  Haven’t touched them in 3 years.
Jim ReinardyC&C 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee, WI 
 Get Outlook for iOS  

   
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Stus-List C&C 44 Harken rudder bearings!

[Steve Martin via CnC-List]

Hi again, I'm wondering if anyone can give me the name of someone in the 
Saugeen Shores, lake huron, On. area that can inspect my rudder bearings for 
advice... I spoke with Don Casey and his advice was to have someone with 
experience/knowledge on the C&C's with harken bearings actually look at it as 
there can be a few different things wrong and some are less expensive fixes 
than others... So, if anyone has the name of someone that could help I'd 
greatly appreciate it.ThanksSteve

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android___

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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List]

Plastic? Stainless?   Sorry, I am sure they are great, but I am an OEM kind of 
guy...teak.
That said, I made a new set of handrails for my C&C 36 six years ago.
varnished with Minwax spar varnish.  Still going strong in northern latitudes.
I think the secret to varnish is to seal all sides, then apply at least 5, and 
7 better, coats with just a light sanding between.  Most, including me on 
passion, quite too soon because three coats looks pretty good, but fails to 
provide the uv protection and depth of finish needed to last outdoors.
I would not epoxy.  Does little more than varnish in this application and more 
difficult to remove when it comes time to do so.
Just my 2 cents.  Don't mean to offend anyone.
Bill Walker 
C&C 36
Pentwater, Mi.


Bill Walker 
On Tuesday, February 19, 2019 John Irvin via CnC-List  
wrote:
I have always wondered if you could make them from the plastic used in cutting 
boards, etc. Forget what it’s called. Any experience out there?

Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 19, 2019, at 10:31 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 wrote:


I would not expect the rails (or any other SS parts) to be hot while sailing. I 
guess different story when you are stationary (at the dock or on anchor). 
Marek1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON From: Dreuge via CnC-ListSent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 10:19To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dreuge Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not. I’m a big 
stainless fan, but not so much for handrails in the summer sun.  I was 
seriously considering stainless for my handrails as I had a friend who went 
that route.  But when I went to admire and be inspired by his rails, I grabbed 
ahold of one and nearly got 2nd degree burn. The impression I got was that a 
hot rail is a safety concern.  I’m thinking of HDPE rails (aka a Starboard 
equivalent) may be the way to go.   While  StarBoard/SeaBoard  are a bit 
pricey, there are equivalents such as  outdoor grade HDPE or UV stabilized HDPE 
sign boards which cost nearly half as much.   -
Paul E.1981 C&C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

On Feb 18, 2019, at 10:11 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: Date: Mon, 
18 Feb 2019 21:15:43 -0500
From: Josh Muckley 
To: "C&C List" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Replace with stainless steel.  I think I paid $100 for each rail.  Custom
made to fit the original holes.

Whitewatermarine.com

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD


 

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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[John Irvin via CnC-List]

I have always wondered if you could make them from the plastic used in cutting 
boards, etc. Forget what it’s called. Any experience out there?

Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 19, 2019, at 10:31 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I would not expect the rails (or any other SS parts) to be hot while sailing. I 
guess different story when you are stationary (at the dock or on anchor).

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON

From: Dreuge via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 10:19
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dreuge
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

I’m a big stainless fan, but not so much for handrails in the summer sun.  I 
was seriously considering stainless for my handrails as I had a friend who went 
that route.  But when I went to admire and be inspired by his rails, I grabbed 
ahold of one and nearly got 2nd degree burn. The impression I got was that a 
hot rail is a safety concern.

I’m thinking of HDPE rails (aka a Starboard equivalent) may be the way to go.   
While  StarBoard/SeaBoard  are a bit pricey, there are equivalents such as  
outdoor grade HDPE or UV stabilized HDPE sign boards which cost nearly half as 
much.



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

On Feb 18, 2019, at 10:11 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2019 21:15:43 -0500
From: Josh Muckley 
To: "C&C List" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Replace with stainless steel.  I think I paid $100 for each rail.  Custom
made to fit the original holes.

Whitewatermarine.com

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD


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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Jim Reinardy via CnC-List]

  
  
  

My solution was to have some Sunbrella covers made for the wood 
handrails.  Takes nearly all the maintenance work away.  Haven’t touched them 
in 3 years.
Jim ReinardyC&C 30-2 “Firewater”Milwaukee, WI



Get Outlook for iOS

  




On Mon, Feb 18, 2019 at 9:11 PM -0600, "John Conklin via CnC-List" 
 wrote:




















Me too 2nd  the vote for the stainless! 


https://drive.google.com/open?id=1ux528c82YTnHOi5ufTJ63xuGtFAm7lYQ


 


 


John Conklin


 


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List 

Sent: Monday, February 18, 2019 9:15:43 PM

To: C&C List

Cc: Josh Muckley

Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
 


Replace with stainless steel.  I think I paid 
$100 for each rail.  Custom made to fit the original holes.



Whitewatermarine.com



https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA





Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD










On Mon, Feb 18, 2019, 6:31 PM Bev Parslow via CnC-List https://www.paypal.me/stumurray













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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Epoxy or not.

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

It is DARK, that is what. It absorbs light which gets converted to heat.  If 
you put a black towel over one thing and a white towel over the other thing, 
the white towel thing is cooler ;)

Joe
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 10:52 AM
To: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
Cc: Bruce Whitmore 
Subject: Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Epoxy or not.

We have navy sunbrella over the rails that we grab to go down the companionway 
hatch.  When we first get to the boat on a weekend in bright daylight sun and 
uncover the rails, they are indeed very hot.  However, within a few minutes of 
uncovering them, the heat dissipates to the outside air temperature.

I have often wondered what it is about the dark sunbrella that makes the 
stainless get so hot.

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+ "Astralis"
Madeira Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Epoxy or not.

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

We have navy sunbrella over the rails that we grab to go down the companionway 
hatch.  When we first get to the boat on a weekend in bright daylight sun and 
uncover the rails, they are indeed very hot.  However, within a few minutes of 
uncovering them, the heat dissipates to the outside air temperature.
I have often wondered what it is about the dark sunbrella that makes the 
stainless get so hot.

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+ "Astralis"Madeira Beach, FL 
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
 

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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Epoxy or not.

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

My stainless bits don’t get hot in the sun. If it is 100 degrees out, the bow 
and stern pulpits are about 100 degrees. My steering wheel is wrapped in fancy 
work so my hands don’t freeze in the winter, in summer the stainless was fine.


Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Marek 
Dziedzic via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 10:31 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

I would not expect the rails (or any other SS parts) to be hot while sailing. I 
guess different story when you are stationary (at the dock or on anchor).

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON

From: Dreuge via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 10:19
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dreuge
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

I’m a big stainless fan, but not so much for handrails in the summer sun.  I 
was seriously considering stainless for my handrails as I had a friend who went 
that route.  But when I went to admire and be inspired by his rails, I grabbed 
ahold of one and nearly got 2nd degree burn. The impression I got was that a 
hot rail is a safety concern.

I’m thinking of HDPE rails (aka a Starboard equivalent) may be the way to go.   
While  StarBoard/SeaBoard  are a bit pricey, there are equivalents such as  
outdoor grade HDPE or UV stabilized HDPE sign boards which cost nearly half as 
much.



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/


On Feb 18, 2019, at 10:11 PM, 
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2019 21:15:43 -0500
From: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>>
To: "C&C List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
Message-ID:
mailto:ca+zacrbqcw3b5szxr2q4ehfo45jy2gcald0yyjfb9dzhhe2...@mail.gmail.com>>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Replace with stainless steel.  I think I paid $100 for each rail.  Custom
made to fit the original holes.

Whitewatermarine.com

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD


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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I would not expect the rails (or any other SS parts) to be hot while sailing. I 
guess different story when you are stationary (at the dock or on anchor).

Marek
1994 C270 Legato
Ottawa, ON

From: Dreuge via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2019 10:19
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dreuge
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

I’m a big stainless fan, but not so much for handrails in the summer sun.  I 
was seriously considering stainless for my handrails as I had a friend who went 
that route.  But when I went to admire and be inspired by his rails, I grabbed 
ahold of one and nearly got 2nd degree burn. The impression I got was that a 
hot rail is a safety concern.

I’m thinking of HDPE rails (aka a Starboard equivalent) may be the way to go.   
While  StarBoard/SeaBoard  are a bit pricey, there are equivalents such as  
outdoor grade HDPE or UV stabilized HDPE sign boards which cost nearly half as 
much.



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

On Feb 18, 2019, at 10:11 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2019 21:15:43 -0500
From: Josh Muckley 
To: "C&C List" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Replace with stainless steel.  I think I paid $100 for each rail.  Custom
made to fit the original holes.

Whitewatermarine.com

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD


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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I’m a big stainless fan, but not so much for handrails in the summer sun.  I 
was seriously considering stainless for my handrails as I had a friend who went 
that route.  But when I went to admire and be inspired by his rails, I grabbed 
ahold of one and nearly got 2nd degree burn. The impression I got was that a 
hot rail is a safety concern.  

I’m thinking of HDPE rails (aka a Starboard equivalent) may be the way to go.   
While  StarBoard/SeaBoard  are a bit pricey, there are equivalents such as  
outdoor grade HDPE or UV stabilized HDPE sign boards which cost nearly half as 
much.



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Feb 18, 2019, at 10:11 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2019 21:15:43 -0500
> From: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>>
> To: "C&C List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Replace with stainless steel.  I think I paid $100 for each rail.  Custom
> made to fit the original holes.
> 
> Whitewatermarine.com 
> 
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA 
> 
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 

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Re: Stus-List Epoxy or not.

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

+1 on AwlWood — I did my handrails and dorade boxes a couple of years ago, and 
they still look great!

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Feb 18, 2019, at 5:36 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> You might want to investigate AwlWood MA 
>  
> from AwlGrip. I’m using it and like it.
> 
> Regards,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> 
>> On Feb 18, 2019, at 6:30 PM, Bev Parslow via CnC-List > > wrote:
>> 
>> Just doing the teak handrails. They are coming up quite well BUT do I epoxy 
>> and then 3-4 coats of varnish or just put the varnish on an skip the epoxy?
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