Re: Stus-List Prop shaft support on 35-2

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Shawn,

My 35-1 has about 4 inches of shaft between the strut and the front edge 
of the prop.  Maybe the 35-2 has a different placement of the strut and 
prop than the 35-1, but I would agree whats on that boat seems  a bit 
longer than desirable.   Can't quite tell from the photo but it appears 
that if the prop were much more forward from where it is the blade tips 
are going to get pretty close to the hull, also not great from a 
vibration standpoint.  Possibly the strut's been moved forward?


On the other hand, the previous owner used it as it is, so  good chance 
its acceptable.  Are you doing a sea trial before purchase?


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 4/12/2019 12:03 AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote:
I just noticed what appears to be a fairly long extension of the prop 
shaft beyond the support on the 35-2 pictured here:


http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=168876=1524980874

It looks like there is at least 12" of shaft beyond the support before 
the prop, and bit less between the hull and the support. I recall 
reading a survey on a boat I was considering where the surveyor 
commented on excessive prop shaft extension as a possible cause of 
vibration. As this boat has a VW diesel (not sure of the 
transmission), I am wondered if the shaft might be too long.


How does this compare with other 35s?

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com 


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Stus-List Prop shaft support on 35-2

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I just noticed what appears to be a fairly long extension of the prop shaft
beyond the support on the 35-2 pictured here:

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=168876=1524980874

It looks like there is at least 12" of shaft beyond the support before the
prop, and bit less between the hull and the support. I recall reading a
survey on a boat I was considering where the surveyor commented on
excessive prop shaft extension as a possible cause of vibration. As this
boat has a VW diesel (not sure of the transmission), I am wondered if the
shaft might be too long.

How does this compare with other 35s?

-- 
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
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Re: Stus-List 1974 35 mk2 - solent rig questions

[Kurt Heckert via CnC-List]

Pretty boat, just about what Heart & Soul should look like by end of summer. My 
35-2 came with a staysail that has a stay built into the luff and goes up on 
the backup jib halyard.

Kurt & Connie Heckert
‘75 C 35mk2
Heart & Soul


On Thu, 4/11/19, Shawn Wright via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List 1974 35 mk2 - solent rig questions
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "Shawn Wright" 
 Date: Thursday, April 11, 2019, 6:04 PM
 
 Thanks for the good info on keel
 bolts. I will inspect carefully if we get a chance to make
 an offer.
 I am still curious
 about the twin headstay/furler solent rig. I will need to
 confirm the inner stay is properly braced at the deck, but I
 am wondering about the mast, with regard to reinforcement,
 and running backstays (there aren't any). This
 modification was made by the previous owner, but the current
 owner indicates that the boat can fly both foresails for
 running. I am wondering if this places loads beyond the
 design on the mast and backstay. I can't find any photos
 showing where the inner stay is attached to the mast, but I
 think it is quite close to the forward stay - they are not
 parallel as in a cutter rig - the bottom is about 2'
 aft, but the top is maybe 1' below the forward stay. 
 There is a photo here, but it doesn't show the
 top...
 http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f152/c-and-c-35-mkii-1974-a-200558.html
 
 After
 going aboard another 35-2, and viewing as many photos as I
 can find online, I think my earlier assessment of the
 interior was a bit harsh; a lot of what I thought was owner
 modifications was actually original, like the many access
 panels on the headliner. I've also had the benefit of
 another 4 months of looking at other boats, and feel this
 one is probably a solid boat if I can get it in the low
 20s.
 I'm hoping to
 get prepared for making an offer and getting a survey on the
 boat, and if that doesn't happen, at least I will have
 learned a lot along the way. 
 
 Thanks
 On Fri, Apr 5,
 2019 at 9:53 AM Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 Shawn,
 I have unbolted and set aside my
 keel and can offer my observations. Our boat, a 1982 C
 37 came with and we sailed with, for many, many years, the
 infamous "C smile.” Every year when pulling the
 boat out, the front part of the keel/keel stub intersection
 would weep a bit of sea-water. Not optimal but I let it go.
 Of note, no sea-water was finding its way into the bilge
 from the bolts.
 Before
 dropping the keel I envisioned, well, had nightmares
 actually, that the keel bolts would be wasted to the size of
 a 1/4” x 20 bolt. I was preparing to drag the keel up to
 Mars Metals in Canada in order to have them replaced. It’s
 been awhile but as I recall the cost per bolt to have them
 replaced was under $200/bolt.
 Fortunately, this did not come to
 pass. Yes, there was some wasting on the forward keel bolt
 but not enough to worry about and certainly not in light of
 the good condition on the remaining bolts. I will bolt the
 keel back on and not worry about it. Why, I might even get
 around to doing that this year…. ;-)
 Link to
 pictures.
 Regards,
 Dave
 Godwin
 1982 C 37 - Ronin
 Reedville - Chesapeake BayRonin’s Overdue
 Refit
 
 
 On Apr 5,
 2019, at 11:42 AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 Hello all,
 After
 another 4 months of boat searching, I am once again
 considering the 35-2 "Callisto" which began this
 old thread from January. I have been thinking about it, and
 when I saw it at the dock while looking at another boat
 (Crown 28, yes I am getting desperate...), I realized I had
 forgotten how nice looking the boat is. It still has a for
 sale sign, and I am waiting to hear back from the owner. I
 think at 34K he was asking far too much, but at 20K I could
 overlook some of the not quite up to my standards work done
 on it. I will get a survey for sure if he gets back to me,
 and we can agree on a price.Since looking at this
 boat, I started getting interested in Ericsons, and really
 liked the idea of the encapsulated keels on their 70s
 models. We almost bought a 29. But I am realizing that my
 fear of keel bolts is probably unwarranted, and even Ericson
 went with bolt on keels by the 80s, and none of them fell
 off. I hear people talk about replacing keel bolts, but I
 assume they mean just the nuts, which doesn't seem to
 make a lot of sense, since the crevice corrosion is likely
 to a problem with the bolt/stud. Are the bolts J bolts like
 concrete anchors, or just threaded rod set into lead? I
 imagine replacing a J bolt would be a huge job. Is replacing
 them ever actually done? Could you just drill, tap, and
 thread in new stainless rod in between the original bolts
 for extra safety? Or am I worrying too much about a mostly
 non-issue? It's just that most bolt on keel boats
 I've looked at have water in the bilge meaning the
 bolts/nuts will stay wet most of the time (probably mainly
 rainwater/condensation I 

Re: Stus-List Merriman snatch block question

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Thanks for the follow up.  No rub rail (at all) on a Custom 42.

From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2019 8:59 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Merriman snatch block question

Has not happened on my 38. I have a pair of 70 series single blocks on swivel 
shackles permanently mounted to the toe rail aft of the winches that I use as 
turning blocks to get a good sheet lead into the winches (which really helps 
reduce the loads when moving the line adjustable genoa cars). And about 4 holes 
aft of the turning blocks are a pair of the 70 series snatch blocks for the 
spin sheets. I normally try to position the snatch blocks inboard with the 
cheeks on the top side to make line handling easier – but I’m old and forgetful 
so they often end up hanging on the outside of the toe rail when at the dock. 

 

In the spirit of full disclosure, my rubrail is a strip of HMWPE that was added 
to the hull in place of the original rubber rail, and it sticks out an inch or 
so further than the rubber rail that was typical of the 70s and 80s models. 
When the blocks end up outside the toerail, they generally end up with the wide 
(aluminum) side of the block laying against the rubrail.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 


 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew L. 
Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2019 10:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Merriman snatch block question

 

Thanks, Rick.

 

I just visited Garhauer’s website.  The comparable block would be the 70SN for 
$220, which is a good price.  However, the cheeks are anodized aluminum, not 
rubber.  The blocks on my boat normally attach to the toe rail, and it is not 
uncommon for a block to end up hanging outboard after use.  I would expect 
aluminum blocks to beat up the gunwale gelcoat.

 

Matt

 

From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 

Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2019 10:24 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: Rick Brass 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Merriman snatch block question

 

Actually, Matthew, they are not that expensive. Here is a Garhauer snatchblock 
in the same size that I use on my 38 for $89 on eBay.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/LARGE-Garhauer-opening-Snatch-Block/254192661569?hash=item3b2f103441:g:Hy4AAOSwF2FbqZHn

 

I sold my old Merriman blocks at a yard sale and bought new Garhauer blocks 
years ago. Superior design with a rotating side plate that is retained by a 
spring loaded pin. Much stronger than what you have and closer to foolproof. 
Mine weren’t much over $100 from Garhauer when I bought them, but that was well 
over a decade ago.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 




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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Merriman snatch block question

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Has not happened on my 38. I have a pair of 70 series single blocks on swivel 
shackles permanently mounted to the toe rail aft of the winches that I use as 
turning blocks to get a good sheet lead into the winches (which really helps 
reduce the loads when moving the line adjustable genoa cars). And about 4 holes 
aft of the turning blocks are a pair of the 70 series snatch blocks for the 
spin sheets. I normally try to position the snatch blocks inboard with the 
cheeks on the top side to make line handling easier – but I’m old and forgetful 
so they often end up hanging on the outside of the toe rail when at the dock. 

 

In the spirit of full disclosure, my rubrail is a strip of HMWPE that was added 
to the hull in place of the original rubber rail, and it sticks out an inch or 
so further than the rubber rail that was typical of the 70s and 80s models. 
When the blocks end up outside the toerail, they generally end up with the wide 
(aluminum) side of the block laying against the rubrail.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew L. 
Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2019 10:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Merriman snatch block question

 

Thanks, Rick.

 

I just visited Garhauer’s website.  The comparable block would be the 70SN for 
$220, which is a good price.  However, the cheeks are anodized aluminum, not 
rubber.  The blocks on my boat normally attach to the toe rail, and it is not 
uncommon for a block to end up hanging outboard after use.  I would expect 
aluminum blocks to beat up the gunwale gelcoat.

 

Matt

 

From: Rick Brass via CnC-List   

Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2019 10:24 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   

Cc: Rick Brass   

Subject: Re: Stus-List Merriman snatch block question

 

Actually, Matthew, they are not that expensive. Here is a Garhauer snatchblock 
in the same size that I use on my 38 for $89 on eBay.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/LARGE-Garhauer-opening-Snatch-Block/254192661569?hash=item3b2f103441:g:Hy4AAOSwF2FbqZHn

 

I sold my old Merriman blocks at a yard sale and bought new Garhauer blocks 
years ago. Superior design with a rotating side plate that is retained by a 
spring loaded pin. Much stronger than what you have and closer to foolproof. 
Mine weren’t much over $100 from Garhauer when I bought them, but that was well 
over a decade ago.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

  _  

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Re: Stus-List Furling line cleating

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

The Harken flip-flop block I use for my furling line IS a ratchet block. I 
think the my furling line is 5/16 instead of 3/8. I had to put a suitably sized 
block of Starboard between the deck and the base of the block to get a proper 
line lead into the block. When the headsail is furled, I still cleat the line 
on a small cleat installed on the top of the coaming about even with the helm, 
and then coil the excess line and hang it on the mount for my outboard. The 
biggest negative I’ve experienced is that as the furler line is pulled in from 
the helm it abrades the fiberglass on the edge of the coaming. In the next few 
weeks I will be installing a stainless strip in the location being worn away to 
stop the damage.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Saur 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2019 4:13 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Saur 
Subject: Stus-List Furling line cleating

 

Happy spring!!??  Ice shanty or two (with trucks) still on Hessel Bay!!

I have been searching for a new way to cleat my furling line.  Currently have 
just a 'horned' cleat mounted on the coaming sidewall.  I have been looking at 
Harken's 'flip-flop' (pivoting) block mounted to deck with integral cam cleat.  
It has approx 300 lbs capacity with 3/8 line max.  Seems I could handle that 
from the helm better.  

 

Anyone have a better idea, or tried a similar setup?  I don't like ratchet 
blocks...and have never seen a block set up like that.  Experts??

 

 

Chuck Saur

Daydream

C 37/40+

Hessel, MI

 

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Re: Stus-List Hull showing reinforcement lines on outside - C 32

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

This makes sense, except they were along most of the hull length, from the
cockpit to the the end of the cabin top at least, spaced every 16-18" or
so. Reminded me of what I see on some of my neighbours houses in the
winter, when the studs show through with heat loss patterns. I don't think
it was this, unless he had his heater cranked inside! Next time I see him I
will ask; I've talked to him a few times, as he does sail training and
cruises from the boat.

On Thu, Apr 11, 2019 at 4:04 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> It’s fairly common on some older C’s. In particular, the 32’s. I think
> we named it the “dimple”. There have been discussions on the topic here in
> years past. It’s usually the brace for the upper shrouds.
>
> My 35-1 had it. It sanded out easily with a straight line sander when I
> prepped Touché for painting.
>
> It’s pretty much cosmetic. Probably due to a combination of post cute
> shrinkage and minor deformation due to rig tension.
>
> The good thing is it’s indicative of the rigging loads being transmitted
> directly to the hull rather than to a bulkhead. That was one of my top
> criteria when I was boat shopping.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touché 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 11, 2019, at 5:08 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> While kayaking the other day, I noticed a 32' ('83 I think) which had
> quite visible vertical lines apparent on the hull where the internal braces
> are located. The hull was a grey-blue colour, which probably made these
> appear more obvious, and I don't think it was moisture, as the temps were
> about 12C and the sun was out. I was surprised to see this, as I haven't
> noticed it on other boats, C or otherwise.
>
> Just curious how common this is and if it is anything more than cosmetic.
>
>
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
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Re: Stus-List Hull showing reinforcement lines on outside - C 32

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

It’s fairly common on some older C’s. In particular, the 32’s. I think we 
named it the “dimple”. There have been discussions on the topic here in years 
past. It’s usually the brace for the upper shrouds. 

My 35-1 had it. It sanded out easily with a straight line sander when I prepped 
Touché for painting. 

It’s pretty much cosmetic. Probably due to a combination of post cute shrinkage 
and minor deformation due to rig tension.

The good thing is it’s indicative of the rigging loads being transmitted 
directly to the hull rather than to a bulkhead. That was one of my top criteria 
when I was boat shopping. 

Dennis C. 
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 11, 2019, at 5:08 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> While kayaking the other day, I noticed a 32' ('83 I think) which had quite 
> visible vertical lines apparent on the hull where the internal braces are 
> located. The hull was a grey-blue colour, which probably made these appear 
> more obvious, and I don't think it was moisture, as the temps were about 12C 
> and the sun was out. I was surprised to see this, as I haven't noticed it on 
> other boats, C or otherwise.
> 
> Just curious how common this is and if it is anything more than cosmetic.
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Furling line cleating

[Sam Salter via CnC-List]

Chuck,
I have exactly the setup you describe.
It’s on my 26 - a smaller boat, but works flawlessly and was such an 
improvement from the old horned cleat.

sam 
C 26  Liquorice 
Ghost Lake Alberta 

On Thursday, April 11, 2019, 4:14:14 PM EDT, Chuck Saur via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Happy spring!!??  Ice shanty or two (with trucks) still on Hessel Bay!!
I have been searching for a new way to cleat my furling line.  Currently have 
just a 'horned' cleat mounted on the coaming sidewall.  I have been looking at 
Harken's 'flip-flop' (pivoting) block mounted to deck with integral cam cleat.  
It has approx 300 lbs capacity with 3/8 line max.  Seems I could handle that 
from the helm better.  

Anyone have a better idea, or tried a similar setup?  I don't like ratchet 
blocks...and have never seen a block set up like that.  Experts??


Chuck Saur

Daydream

C 37/40+

Hessel, MI

 

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Stus-List Hull showing reinforcement lines on outside - C 32

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

While kayaking the other day, I noticed a 32' ('83 I think) which had quite
visible vertical lines apparent on the hull where the internal braces are
located. The hull was a grey-blue colour, which probably made these appear
more obvious, and I don't think it was moisture, as the temps were about
12C and the sun was out. I was surprised to see this, as I haven't noticed
it on other boats, C or otherwise.

Just curious how common this is and if it is anything more than cosmetic.



-- 
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
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Re: Stus-List 1974 35 mk2 - solent rig questions

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Thanks for the good info on keel bolts. I will inspect carefully if we get
a chance to make an offer.

I am still curious about the twin headstay/furler solent rig. I will need
to confirm the inner stay is properly braced at the deck, but I am
wondering about the mast, with regard to reinforcement, and running
backstays (there aren't any). This modification was made by the previous
owner, but the current owner indicates that the boat can fly both foresails
for running. I am wondering if this places loads beyond the design on the
mast and backstay. I can't find any photos showing where the inner stay is
attached to the mast, but I think it is quite close to the forward stay -
they are not parallel as in a cutter rig - the bottom is about 2' aft, but
the top is maybe 1' below the forward stay.  There is a photo here, but it
doesn't show the top...

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f152/c-and-c-35-mkii-1974-a-200558.html

After going aboard another 35-2, and viewing as many photos as I can find
online, I think my earlier assessment of the interior was a bit harsh; a
lot of what I thought was owner modifications was actually original, like
the many access panels on the headliner. I've also had the benefit of
another 4 months of looking at other boats, and feel this one is probably a
solid boat if I can get it in the low 20s.

I'm hoping to get prepared for making an offer and getting a survey on the
boat, and if that doesn't happen, at least I will have learned a lot along
the way.

Thanks

On Fri, Apr 5, 2019 at 9:53 AM Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Shawn,
>
> I have unbolted and set aside my keel and can offer my observations. Our
> boat, a 1982 C 37 came with and we sailed with, for many, many years, the
> infamous "C smile.” Every year when pulling the boat out, the front part
> of the keel/keel stub intersection would weep a bit of sea-water. Not
> optimal but I let it go. Of note, no sea-water was finding its way into the
> bilge from the bolts.
>
> Before dropping the keel I envisioned, well, had nightmares actually, that
> the keel bolts would be wasted to the size of a 1/4” x 20 bolt. I was
> preparing to drag the keel up to Mars Metals in Canada in order to have
> them replaced. It’s been awhile but as I recall the cost per bolt to have
> them replaced was under $200/bolt.
>
> Fortunately, this did not come to pass. Yes, there was some wasting on the
> forward keel bolt but not enough to worry about and certainly not in light
> of the good condition on the remaining bolts. I will bolt the keel back on
> and not worry about it. Why, I might even get around to doing that this
> year…. ;-)
>
> Link  to
> pictures.
>
> Regards,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
> On Apr 5, 2019, at 11:42 AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
> After another 4 months of boat searching, I am once again considering the
> 35-2 "Callisto" which began this old thread from January. I have been
> thinking about it, and when I saw it at the dock while looking at another
> boat (Crown 28, yes I am getting desperate...), I realized I had forgotten
> how nice looking the boat is. It still has a for sale sign, and I am
> waiting to hear back from the owner. I think at 34K he was asking far too
> much, but at 20K I could overlook some of the not quite up to my standards
> work done on it. I will get a survey for sure if he gets back to me, and we
> can agree on a price.
> Since looking at this boat, I started getting interested in Ericsons, and
> really liked the idea of the encapsulated keels on their 70s models. We
> almost bought a 29. But I am realizing that my fear of keel bolts is
> probably unwarranted, and even Ericson went with bolt on keels by the 80s,
> and none of them fell off. I hear people talk about replacing keel bolts,
> but I assume they mean just the nuts, which doesn't seem to make a lot of
> sense, since the crevice corrosion is likely to a problem with the
> bolt/stud. Are the bolts J bolts like concrete anchors, or just threaded
> rod set into lead? I imagine replacing a J bolt would be a huge job. Is
> replacing them ever actually done? Could you just drill, tap, and thread in
> new stainless rod in between the original bolts for extra safety? Or am I
> worrying too much about a mostly non-issue? It's just that most bolt on
> keel boats I've looked at have water in the bilge meaning the bolts/nuts
> will stay wet most of the time (probably mainly rainwater/condensation I
> guess), so it seems like I should be concerned.
>
> It's interesting also that after a lot of discussion with the Ericson guys
> (also a great group of owners, like this group), one of the features of the
> newer Ericson designs which improves comfort is the flared bow (the 80s
> models), something which the C 35-2 

Re: Stus-List Furling line cleating

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

My line comes into an integral farelead/camcleat.  I think that the unit
was designed for a larger size line since the farelead looks capable of
1/2" or even 9/16" and the 3/8ths that I use works loose of the cam cleat.
In heavy winds and a furled sail it can come loose quickly and
dangerously.  I have to remember to cleat it off on the adjacent horn
cleat.  I have a new cam cleat that I haven't installed yet.  I think it
might work a little better.

My line leads back from a forward stanchion to the camcleat and then the
tail falls easily inline with the primary winch.  I know better than to
force the furler with the winch but occasionally I'll lazily use the winch
to pull against the wind.  All my gear is on the starboard side so bringing
the sail in while on port tack works best.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD





On Thu, Apr 11, 2019, 4:14 PM Chuck Saur via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Happy spring!!??  Ice shanty or two (with trucks) still on Hessel Bay!!
> I have been searching for a new way to cleat my furling line.  Currently
> have just a 'horned' cleat mounted on the coaming sidewall.  I have been
> looking at Harken's 'flip-flop' (pivoting) block mounted to deck with
> integral cam cleat.  It has approx 300 lbs capacity with 3/8 line max.
> Seems I could handle that from the helm better.
>
> Anyone have a better idea, or tried a similar setup?  I don't like ratchet
> blocks...and have never seen a block set up like that.  Experts??
>
>
> *Chuck Saur*
>
> Daydream
>
> C 37/40+
>
> Hessel, MI
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Furling line cleating

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Earlier this year we were out on the Gulf and a friend of mine suggested a 
single line clutch.  I found one at our local boat salvage.  Due to the way our 
cockpit is designed, I get a pretty straight pull through it to the turning 
block at the base of the stanchion, and if I ever really had to (and I don't 
intend to), I could lead it to any one of 3 winches.  

In retrospect it's been a great addition, but I would think through the layout 
and make sure you won't catch your foot on it and it won't introduce much in 
the way of friction before you do it.  

And if you don't have a salvage yard nearby, the single line clutches at 
Garhauer are just under $60.  GarhauerMarine.com - Rope Clutch 11-11S


| 
| 
|  | 
GarhauerMarine.com - Rope Clutch 11-11S

Rope Clutch 11-11S
 |

 |

 |


Food for thought, 

Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
 

On Thursday, April 11, 2019, 4:14:14 PM EDT, Chuck Saur via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 Happy spring!!??  Ice shanty or two (with trucks) still on Hessel Bay!!I have 
been searching for a new way to cleat my furling line.  Currently have just a 
'horned' cleat mounted on the coaming sidewall.  I have been looking at 
Harken's 'flip-flop' (pivoting) block mounted to deck with integral cam cleat.  
It has approx 300 lbs capacity with 3/8 line max.  Seems I could handle that 
from the helm better.  
Anyone have a better idea, or tried a similar setup?  I don't like ratchet 
blocks...and have never seen a block set up like that.  Experts??


Chuck Saur

Daydream

C 37/40+

Hessel, MI


 
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Re: Stus-List Furling line cleating

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I have had good luck with a ratcheting block with integral jam cleat, which is 
clamped onto my stanchion at the cockpit. 

Just pull it in and you are done.  If I think bad weather is possible, I will 
also cleat it.

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Saur 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2019 4:13 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Saur
Subject: Stus-List Furling line cleating

 

Happy spring!!??  Ice shanty or two (with trucks) still on Hessel Bay!!

I have been searching for a new way to cleat my furling line.  Currently have 
just a 'horned' cleat mounted on the coaming sidewall.  I have been looking at 
Harken's 'flip-flop' (pivoting) block mounted to deck with integral cam cleat.  
It has approx 300 lbs capacity with 3/8 line max.  Seems I could handle that 
from the helm better.  

 

Anyone have a better idea, or tried a similar setup?  I don't like ratchet 
blocks...and have never seen a block set up like that.  Experts??

 

 

Chuck Saur

Daydream

C 37/40+

Hessel, MI

 

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Re: Stus-List Furling line cleating

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

On my 34R I installed a Harken Size 1 and the kit came with a rachet block on 
the pushpit stanchion and the line is directed toward a secondary winch but run 
through a Harken Cam Cleat mounted on the coaming. 


Chuck S




> On April 11, 2019 at 4:13 PM Chuck Saur via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Happy spring!!??  Ice shanty or two (with trucks) still on Hessel Bay!!
> I have been searching for a new way to cleat my furling line.  Currently 
> have just a 'horned' cleat mounted on the coaming sidewall.  I have been 
> looking at Harken's 'flip-flop' (pivoting) block mounted to deck with 
> integral cam cleat.  It has approx 300 lbs capacity with 3/8 line max.  Seems 
> I could handle that from the helm better.  
> 
> Anyone have a better idea, or tried a similar setup?  I don't like 
> ratchet blocks...and have never seen a block set up like that.  Experts??
> 
> 
> 
> Chuck Saur
> 
> Daydream
> 
> C 37/40+
> 
> Hessel, MI
> 
>  
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
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Stus-List Furling line cleating

[Chuck Saur via CnC-List]

Happy spring!!??  Ice shanty or two (with trucks) still on Hessel Bay!!
I have been searching for a new way to cleat my furling line.  Currently
have just a 'horned' cleat mounted on the coaming sidewall.  I have been
looking at Harken's 'flip-flop' (pivoting) block mounted to deck with
integral cam cleat.  It has approx 300 lbs capacity with 3/8 line max.
Seems I could handle that from the helm better.

Anyone have a better idea, or tried a similar setup?  I don't like ratchet
blocks...and have never seen a block set up like that.  Experts??


*Chuck Saur*

Daydream

C 37/40+

Hessel, MI
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Re: Stus-List Merriman snatch block question

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

But then I’ll have to buy him a beer, or worse yet, two.

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2019 1:58 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Merriman snatch block question

If you want to repair the pin in a snatch block, go to mcmaster.com and look at 
"barrel nuts and screws".  No idea what the load rating on them would be but 
perhaps they might work. 

Or, take up Bill Coleman's offer and advice..

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA



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Re: Stus-List Merriman snatch block question

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Robbie:

   Thanks.  That is the inelegant solution that I knew would work when I 
started this unfortunate thread.  Given that no one has suggested a source 
for a replacement pin, I suspect that's where I'm headed.


   I appreciate everyone's input.

Matt

-Original Message- 
From: Robbie Epstein via CnC-List

Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2019 1:04 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robbie Epstein
Subject: Re: Stus-List Merriman snatch block question

Matthew,

I have four of the large Merriman snatch blocks on my boat.  Over the years,
all the center shafts have failed at some point.  The little screw that hold
the holds the shaft in simply isn't up to the task.  If you want to fix it
for less than 5 bucks, get a 3/8" x 3 1/2" stainless bolt, which has 2 1/2'
of solid unthreaded shank for the roller to use as a bearing surface, and
cut off just enough of the threads with a hacksaw to accept a washer and
locknut.  If I recall, you have to drill out one of the cheek straps to
3/8", but the other strap already has that size hole.  Its not as pretty as
a the original, but it's not coming loose, and I'm guessing the snap shackle
will fail long before the shaft and cheeks.

Robbie Epstein
Thorfinn
C 40 TMDK



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Re: Stus-List Merriman snatch block question

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

If you want to repair the pin in a snatch block, go to mcmaster.com and
look at "barrel nuts and screws".  No idea what the load rating on them
would be but perhaps they might work.

Or, take up Bill Coleman's offer and advice..

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Merriman snatch block question

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Let me preface with a good, "You do you".

The Gaurhaure snatch blocks have a hole in their middle which allows for a
bungee or simple line to be clipped to the lifeline.  This keeps the block
from falling to the deck or topsides when not in use.  I even used lines
such as these and saw them used on blocks that where not made by Gaurhaure
pretty frequently.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Thu, Apr 11, 2019, 10:41 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks, Rick.
>
> I just visited Garhauer’s website.  The comparable block would be the 70SN
> for $220, which is a good price.  However, the cheeks are anodized
> aluminum, not rubber.  The blocks on my boat normally attach to the toe
> rail, and it is not uncommon for a block to end up hanging outboard after
> use.  I would expect aluminum blocks to beat up the gunwale gelcoat.
>
> Matt
>
> *From:* Rick Brass via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, April 11, 2019 10:24 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Rick Brass 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Merriman snatch block question
>
>
> Actually, Matthew, they are not that expensive. Here is a Garhauer
> snatchblock in the same size that I use on my 38 for $89 on eBay.
>
>
>
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/LARGE-Garhauer-opening-Snatch-Block/254192661569?hash=item3b2f103441:g:Hy4AAOSwF2FbqZHn
>
>
>
> I sold my old Merriman blocks at a yard sale and bought new Garhauer
> blocks years ago. Superior design with a rotating side plate that is
> retained by a spring loaded pin. Much stronger than what you have and
> closer to foolproof. Mine weren’t much over $100 from Garhauer when I
> bought them, but that was well over a decade ago.
>
>
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
> --
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Merriman snatch block question

[Robbie Epstein via CnC-List]

Matthew,

I have four of the large Merriman snatch blocks on my boat.  Over the years,
all the center shafts have failed at some point.  The little screw that hold
the holds the shaft in simply isn't up to the task.  If you want to fix it
for less than 5 bucks, get a 3/8" x 3 1/2" stainless bolt, which has 2 1/2'
of solid unthreaded shank for the roller to use as a bearing surface, and
cut off just enough of the threads with a hacksaw to accept a washer and
locknut.  If I recall, you have to drill out one of the cheek straps to
3/8", but the other strap already has that size hole.  Its not as pretty as
a the original, but it's not coming loose, and I'm guessing the snap shackle
will fail long before the shaft and cheeks.

Robbie Epstein
Thorfinn
C 40 TMDK



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Re: Stus-List Universal engine coolant drain plug

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Can you get a picture?

If you damage it then you can just drill it out.  Brass is pretty soft.  If
you damage the block then you can over drill and re-tap with the
appropriate MIP thread tap.

I had a fuel banjo bolt with a built in bleed screw.  The screw would strip
out quite easily and as a result vibration would loosen the screw, air
would enter, and the engine would die.  Before replacing the bolt I used JB
Weld epoxy stick (which is steel impregnated epoxy putty) to glue the bleed
screw in place.  It worked quite well, so well in fact that when the first
replacement lost its bleed screw I immediately reinstalled the JB welded
one.  It remained in service for another few years until I replaced it with
a banjo bolt that didn't have a bleed screw at all.  The point being, if
you are really scared of breaking the fitting in a manner that would render
the boat in operable, then just try some epoxy putty.  Clean it well and
wash with acetone or denatured alcohol.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Thu, Apr 11, 2019, 8:23 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> To follow up, I found what I am pretty sure is the drain plug near the oil
> dip stick and near enough to the front of the engine to be visible.  It
> appears to be soft brass because it the head was already damaged by someone
> trying to remove it before I tried to get a wrench on it.  I was unable to
> budge it even after leaving PB Blaster on it for a few days.  I am afraid
> to do much more because I am not sure I can find a replacement if I damage
> it more.  The only other thing I can think of to do is to remove one of the
> hoses from the heat exchanger and turn the engine on long enough to pump
> the antifreeze out.  The alternative is to just start filling the overflow
> with new antifreeze and have it slowly exchange over time.  Any
> suggestions?  Dave
>
> On Mar 31, 2019, at 2:08 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I need to drain the coolant from my Universal M4-30.  The drain plug in
> the photo I have from the manual is near the dip stick on the side of the
> engine I can reach but can’t see.  The photo in the manual is pretty
> useless as I can’t see what it is pointing to.  Does anyone know more
> precisely what it looks like (size?) or a way to find it by feel (or
> another way to drain)?  Thanks- Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
> 
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Universal engine coolant drain plug

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Might that require the thermostat to be open before it will circulate the 
water?Just wondering,Bruce Whitmore 1994 C/40+"Astralis"Sent from Samsung 
tablet.
 Original message From: Morgan Ellis via CnC-List 
 Date: 4/11/19  9:11 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Morgan Ellis  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Universal engine coolant drain plug Hi David, do you have engine 
heated hot water on your boat? If so, you could disconnect those hoses. Run one 
to an empty 5 gal bucket and the other to one with fresh water. Run the engine 
until the fluid coming out is clear. You could do this a couple of time to 
flush the system then refill with DH2O and glycol. I haven't tried this, but it 
is likely what I would attempt.
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Re: Stus-List Merriman snatch block question

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Thanks, Rick.

I just visited Garhauer’s website.  The comparable block would be the 70SN for 
$220, which is a good price.  However, the cheeks are anodized aluminum, not 
rubber.  The blocks on my boat normally attach to the toe rail, and it is not 
uncommon for a block to end up hanging outboard after use.  I would expect 
aluminum blocks to beat up the gunwale gelcoat.

Matt

From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2019 10:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rick Brass 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Merriman snatch block question

Actually, Matthew, they are not that expensive. Here is a Garhauer snatchblock 
in the same size that I use on my 38 for $89 on eBay.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/LARGE-Garhauer-opening-Snatch-Block/254192661569?hash=item3b2f103441:g:Hy4AAOSwF2FbqZHn

 

I sold my old Merriman blocks at a yard sale and bought new Garhauer blocks 
years ago. Superior design with a rotating side plate that is retained by a 
spring loaded pin. Much stronger than what you have and closer to foolproof. 
Mine weren’t much over $100 from Garhauer when I bought them, but that was well 
over a decade ago.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 



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Re: Stus-List Merriman snatch block question

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Actually, Matthew, they are not that expensive. Here is a Garhauer snatchblock 
in the same size that I use on my 38 for $89 on eBay.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/LARGE-Garhauer-opening-Snatch-Block/254192661569?hash=item3b2f103441:g:Hy4AAOSwF2FbqZHn

 

I sold my old Merriman blocks at a yard sale and bought new Garhauer blocks 
years ago. Superior design with a rotating side plate that is retained by a 
spring loaded pin. Much stronger than what you have and closer to foolproof. 
Mine weren’t much over $100 from Garhauer when I bought them, but that was well 
over a decade ago.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck 
Gilchrest via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 9, 2019 4:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Merriman snatch block question

 

“Fixing” bent snatch blocks???  Really??  Bending it back into shape?  Finding 
replacement pins for 30 year old blocks that are twisted and falling apart?  
You need to consider metal fatigue and once stainless steel is bent without 
applying heat, it is severely compromised.

I’m as cheap as the next sailor (well maybe not the Canadian ones…) but once a 
piece of critical hardware gives up and gets bent out of shape, it finds its 
way into the scrap heap and gets replaced because I don’t depend on damaged 
hardware to get me home safely..  Maybe because I love my children and my wife 
and want to see them again.   Just for the record, if the snatch block lets go 
under load and kills someone or severely injures a crew member, I hope you have 
enough liability insurance because it will not be something you can pin on a 
company that has been out of business since 1989.

If you have a single piece of electronic gadgetry or cookware on your boat that 
costs more than a snatch block and have limited financial resources, I suggest 
you sell them and buy the new hardware that you need.  And yes, I am well aware 
that new snatch blocks are expensive..it’s for good reason!

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> > On Behalf Of Bill Coleman via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 9, 2019 2:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Bill Coleman mailto:colt...@verizon.net> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Merriman snatch block question

 

Lay it under my keel, I will take a look at it. I can probably beat it back 
into shape. Might cost you a beer or two, tho.

I used to repair Merle’s Merrimans, and now of course I own them.

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew L. 
Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, April 09, 2019 1:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Stus-List Merriman snatch block question

 

Listers:

 

I have an old Merriman snatch block in need of repair.  It was under load 
last season and not properly closed, which caused it to open and bend the 
stainless straps (on the sides) and the pin holding it together.  I believe I 
can bend the stainless straps back more or less into alignment.  However, the 
pin is bent and in need of replacement.  The pin used by Merriman for this 
block is stainless, 2 1/2 inches long (I’m guessing 5/16 diameter) with a head 
on one end and internal threads on the other.  It is held together by a machine 
screw that screws into the threaded end.  I suppose I could use a stainless 
bolt, but that would not be very elegant.  Any ideas?  

 

 


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Re: Stus-List Universal engine coolant drain plug

[Morgan Ellis via CnC-List]

Hi David, do you have engine heated hot water on your boat? If so, you
could disconnect those hoses. Run one to an empty 5 gal bucket and the
other to one with fresh water. Run the engine until the fluid coming out is
clear. You could do this a couple of time to flush the system then refill
with DH2O and glycol. I haven't tried this, but it is likely what I would
attempt.
___

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Re: Stus-List Universal engine coolant drain plug

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

For my Westerbeke, which is also a pain to drain, my mechanic suggested 
installing a valve in the lower heat exchanger hose and, once annually, drain 
what will come out and add new stuff.  He said I will not get all the 
antifreeze out doing it this way, but if I do it annually it won’t matter.

From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, April 11, 2019 8:22 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Universal engine coolant drain plug

To follow up, I found what I am pretty sure is the drain plug near the oil dip 
stick and near enough to the front of the engine to be visible.  It appears to 
be soft brass because it the head was already damaged by someone trying to 
remove it before I tried to get a wrench on it.  I was unable to budge it even 
after leaving PB Blaster on it for a few days.  I am afraid to do much more 
because I am not sure I can find a replacement if I damage it more.  The only 
other thing I can think of to do is to remove one of the hoses from the heat 
exchanger and turn the engine on long enough to pump the antifreeze out.  The 
alternative is to just start filling the overflow with new antifreeze and have 
it slowly exchange over time.  Any suggestions?  Dave



  On Mar 31, 2019, at 2:08 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  I need to drain the coolant from my Universal M4-30.  The drain plug in the 
photo I have from the manual is near the dip stick on the side of the engine I 
can reach but can’t see.  The photo in the manual is pretty useless as I can’t 
see what it is pointing to.  Does anyone know more precisely what it looks like 
(size?) or a way to find it by feel (or another way to drain)?  Thanks- Dave 

  S/V Aries
  1990 C 34+
  New London, CT

   

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S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

 





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Re: Stus-List 35-2 headliner treatment; chainplate inspection

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

" I don’t know if the chain plate bulkheads are cored or solid fiberglass  "

On the 35 Mk.1 they are plywood with fiberglass on one side.

Ken H.

On Wed, 10 Apr 2019 at 18:38, Kurt Heckert via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The Chainplates on the 35-2 are easily accessible behind the sliding
> doors, I would look for signs of water coming in from the cover plates,
> also look for any thing oozing from around the bolts. Also tap on them with
> a screw driver handle and listen for echos. I don’t know if the chain plate
> bulkheads are cored or solid fiberglass.
>
> Kurt & Connie Heckert
>
> 
> On Wed, 4/10/19, james via CnC-List  wrote:
>
>  Subject: Re: Stus-List 35-2 headliner treatment; chainplate inspection
>  To: "Shawn Wright via CnC-List" 
>  Cc: "james" 
>  Date: Wednesday, April 10, 2019, 5:22 PM
>
>
>  Shawn,
>
>
>  My boat came with vinyl covered plywood panels that
>  are held in
>place by velcro. They had become pretty ragged and
>  warped so I
>replaced them with "foamed PVC" sheet. They
>  look very nice. I
>can't find any pics of them but I'll email you
>  a before pic. I'm
>not sure that would work on your boat, but it's an
>  idea
>  James Taylor
>  Delaney, 1976 C 38
>  Oriental, NC
>
>
>  On 4/10/2019 11:36 AM,
>  Shawn Wright via
>CnC-List wrote:
>
>
>
>We are
>  considering a '74 35-2 which has had quite a
>  number of holes drilled through the interior
>  headliner, for the
>  purpose of through-bolting (and apparently epoxy
>  filling/drilling, but not confirmed by me) various
>  hardware,
>  including replacement stainless grab rails. In some
>  areas, 4-8"
>  circular holes were cut, and white acrylic panels
>  similar to the
>  factory panels were added, which look ok. For the
>  grab rails,
>  there is just a series of 1" holes. There are
>  also a few places
>  where access was cut for wiring. As a result, the
>  headliner is
>  not too tidy, with a bit of a swiss cheese look.
>
>
>
>  What I am wondering is whether anyone has
>  successfully made
>a headliner cover from vinyl, fabric or semi rigid
>  material
>like I've seen done on other boats. My first
>  thought is that
>the complex curves in the cabin top would make
>  this very
>difficult to do well. I have seen one example
>  where the white
>covers were in teak veneer (maybe this was an
>  option?) but I
>think that might just make them stand out
>  more.
>
>
>
>  Also, something more critical than headliners -
>  what do I
>look for when inspecting the chainplates on the
>  35-2? If I get
>a chance on this boat, I will need to look closely
>  at them.
>Are they visible behind the sliding storage doors,
>  or do I
>need to take things apart to fully inspect?
>
>
>
>
>--
>
>
>  Shawn Wright
>  shawngwri...@gmail.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
>
>
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>  this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is
>  greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
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>
>  -Inline Attachment Follows-
>
>
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>
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Re: Stus-List Universal engine coolant drain plug

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

To follow up, I found what I am pretty sure is the drain plug near the oil dip 
stick and near enough to the front of the engine to be visible.  It appears to 
be soft brass because it the head was already damaged by someone trying to 
remove it before I tried to get a wrench on it.  I was unable to budge it even 
after leaving PB Blaster on it for a few days.  I am afraid to do much more 
because I am not sure I can find a replacement if I damage it more.  The only 
other thing I can think of to do is to remove one of the hoses from the heat 
exchanger and turn the engine on long enough to pump the antifreeze out.  The 
alternative is to just start filling the overflow with new antifreeze and have 
it slowly exchange over time.  Any suggestions?  Dave

> On Mar 31, 2019, at 2:08 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I need to drain the coolant from my Universal M4-30.  The drain plug in the 
> photo I have from the manual is near the dip stick on the side of the engine 
> I can reach but can’t see.  The photo in the manual is pretty useless as I 
> can’t see what it is pointing to.  Does anyone know more precisely what it 
> looks like (size?) or a way to find it by feel (or another way to drain)?  
> Thanks- Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Dave

I've got the ATN set, and use it with a climbing harness.  I find it is 
excellent for going up the mast but painfully slow getting down, so I use a 
hybrid approach.  I attach a line to my harness (tied, not clipped), which is 
used as a safety line on the way up.  Once I'm done up there I will descend 
enough to put the load on the safety line and I disconnect the ATN, my wife can 
then lower me down easily.  The compromise is that I don't have a safety line 
on my descent, but I'm willing to live with that.

I don't use a strap around the mast, I've never found that to be a problem.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2019-04-10 2:42 p.m., David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
I picked up a used Mastclimber on Ebay this winter.  I have not used it yet, 
but am thinking ahead so I am ready when I need it.  When I went up the mast a 
few years ago with an expert’s equipment and help, I was pulled up on a halyard 
and the main winch.  I had a strap around the mast to keep me from swinging out 
away from the mast in waves.  The ATN device allows you to climb a fixed 
halyard so should have less tendency for swinging.  I am wondering if I should 
still have a safety strap around the mast, but if so,  it must be something 
that is easily attached and detached to get above spreaders.  Do the expert 
climbers in the group think that safety is necessary, and if so, what device do 
I want?  Line with carabiners on each end or something else?  Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

[cid:4073BE72-4704-4EA7-8EBA-B73B833F502B]




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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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