Re: Stus-List Offshore boat - lost in translation/ now buy the freaking boat!

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Shawn,

Yes the CS36 T is a very good boat, built like a tank and a very descent 
performer in its deep draft version. The 27 is a good 27 but not as fast as a 
C and the CS30 is a nice option compared to a C 29 mkII, but not in the 
league of the CS36 in my opinion.

But the 36 T hold their value quite well and I would be surprise that you find 
a good one in your budget. 

I have been following your journey here with interest. You remind me of myself 
when I was looking to find my first boat in 2008. You want to make a good 
choice, you don't want to make a mistake, I'm sure you spend long hours reading 
stuff all night, you seem highly interested in everything sailing but also seem 
really anxious about the process. It's normal. At this point I would go back to 
Mike Hoyt post few days ago. Your budget is low and you won't find a perfect 35 
ft at that price. So you must establish your priorities my friend. Some people 
here told you to get a smaller cheaper boat that is sail away ready. That's a 
very valid option to consider. But you seem to know that you want a "bigger" 
boat. So if you think the 35-2 is right for you, stop overthinking it and buy 
the freaking boat! It won't be perfect, no boat is perfect! Even if you find 
one that looks good and is more expensive, trust me you will find things that 
need to be fixed or upgraded. These are old boats. At least, if you know you 
want a 35-36 footer, the time and money you will put in your new toy will not 
be lost. As is if you get a 27-29 ft boat, you will still have to put $ in her 
and in 2 years, when you decide to upgrade, you will never get that $ back. 
Instead you will have an old 27-29 ft boat for sale and back to square one 
looking for the right 35-2.

My advice, if the 35-2 you are looking has good bones, the rig looks good, the 
sails are ok, buy it! You seem to have spent enough time evaluating that boat 
and doing your homework so you should know. Then do like the rest of us and 
plan for a yearly maintenance and upgrade budget of a few boat bucks. It's how 
it works, there is no special trick to it and no unicorn ! So between paying 19 
000 or 21 500$, it does not really matters if you like the boat. Welcome to 
boat ownership!

Hope that helps. Sometimes we just need a little push to go forward. 

Good luck

Bruno Lachance
C 29 mkII from 2008 to 2011 that I sold to get our 33-2. Never looked back!
Bécassine
New Richmond, Qc

Envoyé de mon iPad

> Le 27 avr. 2019 à 22:30, Shawn Wright via CnC-List  a 
> écrit :
> 
> Interesting you mention the CS36... the T version designed by Ray Wall is 
> very high on my list of boats that seem to tick all the right boxes, and one 
> that I might stretch our budget for. There is a cluster of CS boats are a 
> local marina - three 36Ts and two 30s, but none for sale. I've only been 
> aboard the CS27, which is not bad for a 27, but I'd like a but more space for 
> extended cruising. The 30 is in our price range, but reportedly not as solid 
> as the 36, and not nearly as nice to look at, imho.
> 
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Bali Cat Sailing Characteristics (was Offshore boat - lost in translation)

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Randy, I don't know the Bali line that well, but to me most of them look like 
power cat with a tiny mast. I have not looked at the SA/D ratio but it must be 
really low. Definitely not an Outremer!

If you go back, have a look at 
http://vacancessousvoiles.ca/en/ownership-programs/ownership-made-simple/

They charter privately owned  Hanse yacht. They are a bit IKEA down below and 
I'm not a big fan of self tacking jib but I think there are quite nice compared 
to the average big name charter offer.

The BVIs, What an amazing playground!

Cheers!
Bruno

Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 27 avr. 2019 à 15:50, Randy Stafford 
mailto:randal.staff...@icloud.com>> a écrit :

On Apr 27, 2019, at 11:44 AM, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

A friend of mine just came back from a BVIs charter on a Bali 4.0 cat. He was 
so disappointed with the "sailing" part of his trip. He missed his CS36 upwind 
that's all I will report.

That’s funny, I just chartered a 2019 Bali 4.5 in the BVI three weeks ago.  I 
chose it on purpose after researching every four-cabin, four-head cat available 
for charter in the Virgins - primarily because it has a nice seating area 
forward of the deckhouse.  And it was the right choice for the trip, from a 
social perspective.

But we had a hell of a time getting the helm balanced, no matter the point of 
sail or wind speed.  Even with a flybridge, the main had so much more area than 
the jib that we’d have to ease it so much to center the rudder that we’d start 
losing power from it.  Seems like the Bali’s mast is too far forward.  So we 
just basically lived with 5-10 degrees of rudder angle all week, except one day 
upwind from St. John to Cooper Island we somehow found a better balance.  We 
made Anegada to Jost one day, some 25nm on port tack broad reach, in about four 
hours double-reefed with a peak speed of 9+ kts, but never broke into the 
double digits.

My wife wants to charter a monohull next time, and of course so would I.   If I 
remember correctly there were a few Bavarias and Dufours in the charter fleets, 
apart from the typical Beneteaus and Jenneaus.

Cheers,
Randy
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Stus-List Cleaning epoxy off cabin liner

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Hi,

The 35-2 we're still waffling on (!) has many holes in the ceiling liner,
and some have been filled with what appears to be epoxy, leaving a
yellowish residue around the hole. Is there any safe was to clean epoxy
residue off gelcoat without damaging it? One of the things that gives me
concern about this boat is the sheer number of holes drilled everywhere, in
both the teak and the liner. Some are done well, some not. Nearly every
teak panel has some kind of flaw, so the sheer amount of work to clean it
all up keeps dropping the boat into "project" category, even though pretty
much everything works, aside from a few lights.

Aside from the amount of time I would spend fixing these things, I can't
help feeling that a project 35-2 should cost less than $22K CAD. But maybe
I'm wrong. I know the seller things it is worth this much because of the
upgrades, but the fact is most of these things are 15+ years old, giving
them little real value, since they could fail any day. A few things it
doesn't have, that I would like to add (I think) are a boom vang, move
mainsheet to the traveller, and lead halyard and reefling lines aft. These
are going to cost a bit, and many other boats already have these things
done.

Of course, the electrical is a whole other can of worms, and will cost me
at least $500 - 1000 to resolve depending on where I make a panel and use
blade fuses+switches, or go with a bluesea breaker panel.

So when I add these things up, I figure $18K is a more reasonable price for
the boat, and that's still ignoring the franken-engine watermaker setup. Or
the homemade solar arch with amateur SS welding.

Oh, and I took a hose and sprayed the boat down today after the wind
finally eased a bit, forcing water all along the hull-deck joint, windows,
etc. No issues at hull-deck joint or chainplates, but two windows leak, in
addition to the forward hatch I knew about, and two of the dorades also
leak. Not a lot, but I also didn't hold the hose on it that long.

Maybe we'll just buy it, sail it and see how it goes. Maybe I'll flip a
coin. I don't know...
-- 
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
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Re: Stus-List C as offshore boat?

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Another day of 20-30kn winds in the harbour, so no sailing, although I did
spend a few hours on the boat listening to some creaking. The bulkheads
either side of the head being somewhat loose where they meet the cabin top
liner worries me a bit.



On Sat, Apr 27, 2019 at 9:10 AM Jim Watts via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> First, I think your idea of getting a boat that you can use right now is a
> good idea. By the time you are ready for bluewater, you will have a much
> better idea of what boat you want for that purpose.
> The 35-3 does tend to pound in waves going upwind, it's just a function of
> that flat bottom in front of the keel. Heeled at 20 degrees, it doesn't
> pound as much, but living at that angle of heel for days at a time is not a
> lot of fun. The PS 44, at twice the displacement, has a much different hull
> profile, it doesn't pound and is much more seakindly. The 44 also has major
> tankage, food storage, battery space, an excellent shower, and costs about
> ten times the value of our 35. It certainly is no faster than the 35.
> If you want to see some pix of the trip down the coast, look here:
> http://sailvalis.com/wordpress_1/?p=597
>
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
>
> On Fri, 26 Apr 2019 at 10:05, Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Jim,
>>
>> When you say very uncomfortable, do you mean because your 35-3 would be
>> slamming into waves in rough conditions? I see that the PS 44 is about
>> twice the displacement of the 35, so that makes a big difference I guess.
>> We have some sailing to do before we'll attempt anything like that!
>>
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
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Re: Stus-List Offshore boat - lost in translation

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Interesting you mention the CS36... the T version designed by Ray Wall is
very high on my list of boats that seem to tick all the right boxes, and
one that I might stretch our budget for. There is a cluster of CS boats are
a local marina - three 36Ts and two 30s, but none for sale. I've only been
aboard the CS27, which is not bad for a 27, but I'd like a but more space
for extended cruising. The 30 is in our price range, but reportedly not as
solid as the 36, and not nearly as nice to look at, imho.



On Sat, Apr 27, 2019 at 10:45 AM Bruno Lachance via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hahaha! This is so funny. Andrew serving the table for someone else (me)
> to bash on Beneteau and Hunter and Marek really trying to literally
> translate a figurative "translation" joke.
>
> Andrew knew I may be easy to start on that path... But... I will stick to
> what I know from experience. The only boats I have seen dismasted while
> sailing are all Hunter. I have seen one 35.5 broke her mast right at a
> start of a local race. Bad luck? Maybe, but I have also seen two other
> larger hunter that lost their rig sailing in under 20 knots wind. We have a
> lot more older C in our region and I have never seen one lose their
> stick. I have seen a lot with bad blisters too. But yes hunter are roomy
> and affordable.
>
> As for Beneteau, they are different in my opinion, they made good boats
> like the First 42 ( German Frers design) but they also made "sailing boats"
> that would be more in their element in a trailer park.
>
> I quite liked some of the First, like the 29, the 345 or the 375. Those
> "euro" style boats were ahead of their time like most C But for me the
> rusty iron keel and keel bolts, the moldy vinyl liner, or the glued GRP
> structural grid in newer boats ( 36.7, 40.7) that traps water... always
> made me come back to C that are not perfect, nor for everyone, but for me
> they usually tick the right boxes.
>
> I'm sure a lot of sailors could bad mouth our boats. I have seen and
> corrected some issues, but the sailing qualities are there for sure and I
> think that C lines age well and still look good today.
>
> Every brand has its identity, + and -. As you all know it's a compromise,
> it depends... we are not building a custom boat with unlimited budget!
>
> A friend of mine just came back from a BVIs charter on a Bali 4.0 cat. He
> was so disappointed with the "sailing" part of his trip. He missed his CS36
> upwind that's all I will report.
>
> Bruno Lachance
> Bécassine, 33-2
> New-richmond, Qc.
>
>
>
> Envoyé de mon iPad
>
> Le 26 avr. 2019 à 14:34, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> a écrit :
>
> I am not a French speaker (at least, not a francophone), but from what I
> know, the name Beneteau (or rather, Bénéteau) came from the last name of
> the original founder/constructor/shipwright.
>
> The “hunter” would be “chasseur”. If you want to stretch the similarities,
> “bonneteau” is French for a three-card game, but it has nothing to do with
> either Hunter or Beneteau.
>
> Marek
> Ottawa, ON
>
> *From:* Andrew Burton via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, April 26, 2019 11:52
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Andrew Burton
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Offshore boat
>
> By the way, perhaps a French speaker out there (Bruno?) can tell me, is it
> true that "Beneteau" is French for "Hunter?" :)
>
> Andy
>
> Andrew Burton
> 139 Tuckerman Ave
> Middletown, RI
> USA02842
>
> www.burtonsailing.com
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> 
> +401 965-5260
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
___

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Stus-List Bali Cat Sailing Characteristics (was Offshore boat - lost in translation)

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

> On Apr 27, 2019, at 11:44 AM, Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> A friend of mine just came back from a BVIs charter on a Bali 4.0 cat. He was 
> so disappointed with the "sailing" part of his trip. He missed his CS36 
> upwind that's all I will report.

That’s funny, I just chartered a 2019 Bali 4.5 in the BVI three weeks ago.  I 
chose it on purpose after researching every four-cabin, four-head cat available 
for charter in the Virgins - primarily because it has a nice seating area 
forward of the deckhouse.  And it was the right choice for the trip, from a 
social perspective.

But we had a hell of a time getting the helm balanced, no matter the point of 
sail or wind speed.  Even with a flybridge, the main had so much more area than 
the jib that we’d have to ease it so much to center the rudder that we’d start 
losing power from it.  Seems like the Bali’s mast is too far forward.  So we 
just basically lived with 5-10 degrees of rudder angle all week, except one day 
upwind from St. John to Cooper Island we somehow found a better balance.  We 
made Anegada to Jost one day, some 25nm on port tack broad reach, in about four 
hours double-reefed with a peak speed of 9+ kts, but never broke into the 
double digits.

My wife wants to charter a monohull next time, and of course so would I.   If I 
remember correctly there were a few Bavarias and Dufours in the charter fleets, 
apart from the typical Beneteaus and Jenneaus.

Cheers,
Randy
___

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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: C as offshore boat?

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

He seems to be doing fine; but I think he’s getting “Mexico on the brain” after 
all of this time down there…      Sometimes his emails are a little weird; but 
then he comes right back with another that’s totally fine.

BTW, I helped him sail part of the way down the California coast from San 
Francisco to Mexico when he was heading down there; and the LF38 did just fine 
in large quartering seas and fairly high winds.  I may be a bit biased, as I 
own one myself… but I’ve been out on Lake Superior in some truly nasty stuff.  
The boat handles most situations just fine, probably better than the crew.  
Before the “flame war” starts about lake sailing vs. ocean sailing, please note 
that I’ve got my fair share of bluewater miles under my belt (including 
Tropical Storm Sean in the North Atlantic in the late fall of 2011), so I have 
something to compare to.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(



> On Apr 24, 2019, at 2:52 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> We have a C lister in Mexico right now. He sailed there in a Landfall 38.
> Anyone heard from Wally lately?
>  
> Joe
> Coquina
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Re: Stus-List Metal Rod Forward of Keel

[John McLaughlin via CnC-List]

Sorry about the mistake.  I meant rudder.  The explanation that it is intended 
to prevent lines from tangling in the rudder slot makes some sense.  However, 
would seem to pale in relation to the danger that a line in that area would 
have a high likelyhood of tangling in the prop.
Interesting that no other make of boat that I have encountered uses this 
feature.
John McLaughlin

-Original Message-
From: John McLaughlin via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: johnrmcl 
Sent: Fri, Apr 26, 2019 11:59 am
Subject: Stus-List Metal Rod Forward of Keel

All the C's in our yard have a metal rod that protrudes from the underside 
just ahead of the keel.  No one seems to know its purpose.
John McLaughlinC 29-2Falcon___

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Re: Stus-List Offshore boat - lost in translation

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Hahaha! This is so funny. Andrew serving the table for someone else (me) to 
bash on Beneteau and Hunter and Marek really trying to literally translate a 
figurative "translation" joke.

Andrew knew I may be easy to start on that path... But... I will stick to what 
I know from experience. The only boats I have seen dismasted while sailing are 
all Hunter. I have seen one 35.5 broke her mast right at a start of a local 
race. Bad luck? Maybe, but I have also seen two other larger hunter that lost 
their rig sailing in under 20 knots wind. We have a lot more older C in our 
region and I have never seen one lose their stick. I have seen a lot with bad 
blisters too. But yes hunter are roomy and affordable.

As for Beneteau, they are different in my opinion, they made good boats like 
the First 42 ( German Frers design) but they also made "sailing boats" that 
would be more in their element in a trailer park.

I quite liked some of the First, like the 29, the 345 or the 375. Those "euro" 
style boats were ahead of their time like most C But for me the rusty iron 
keel and keel bolts, the moldy vinyl liner, or the glued GRP structural grid in 
newer boats ( 36.7, 40.7) that traps water... always made me come back to C 
that are not perfect, nor for everyone, but for me they usually tick the right 
boxes.

I'm sure a lot of sailors could bad mouth our boats. I have seen and corrected 
some issues, but the sailing qualities are there for sure and I think that C 
lines age well and still look good today.

Every brand has its identity, + and -. As you all know it's a compromise, it 
depends... we are not building a custom boat with unlimited budget!

A friend of mine just came back from a BVIs charter on a Bali 4.0 cat. He was 
so disappointed with the "sailing" part of his trip. He missed his CS36 upwind 
that's all I will report.

Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, 33-2
New-richmond, Qc.



Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 26 avr. 2019 à 14:34, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit :

I am not a French speaker (at least, not a francophone), but from what I know, 
the name Beneteau (or rather, Bénéteau) came from the last name of the original 
founder/constructor/shipwright.

The “hunter” would be “chasseur”. If you want to stretch the similarities, 
“bonneteau” is French for a three-card game, but it has nothing to do with 
either Hunter or Beneteau.

Marek
Ottawa, ON

From: Andrew Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 26, 2019 11:52
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Offshore boat

By the way, perhaps a French speaker out there (Bruno?) can tell me, is it true 
that "Beneteau" is French for "Hunter?" :)

Andy

Andrew Burton
139 Tuckerman Ave
Middletown, RI
USA02842

www.burtonsailing.com
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260


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Re: Stus-List C as offshore boat?

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

I agree with Dave.  Just get a boat and learn from it.  It’s an iterative 
process.  If you’re lucky, you’ll get a boat you’ll love and want to keep 
forever - like a C 30 MK I :) - and / or you’ll learn from the experience of 
owning the boat you get, and apply the learning to the next boat you get, and 
so on.  Maybe you’ll even own multiple boats at the same time someday.

Cheers,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C 30 MK I #7
Ken Caryl, CO

> On Apr 27, 2019, at 4:31 AM, Dave via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Enjoy the sail 
> FWIW I only really understood what I wanted and needed from a sailboat after 
> experiencing what I didn’t, and for me at least this took time. I still don’t 
> have it quite right.  (Lol). I wouldn’t dwell too much on getting the right 
> boat today for some future aspiration.  IMO, Get a good boat for today, and 
> accept that it’ll still be imperfect.With experience You’ll progressively 
> dial in on what you want, and in any case your aspirations will change over 
> time.  
> Good luck with (and enjoy) the adventure.
> Dave -33 mk2 - (the not-ideal boat I am currently enjoying immensely)
> Sent from my iPad
> 


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Re: Stus-List C as offshore boat?

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

First, I think your idea of getting a boat that you can use right now is a
good idea. By the time you are ready for bluewater, you will have a much
better idea of what boat you want for that purpose.
The 35-3 does tend to pound in waves going upwind, it's just a function of
that flat bottom in front of the keel. Heeled at 20 degrees, it doesn't
pound as much, but living at that angle of heel for days at a time is not a
lot of fun. The PS 44, at twice the displacement, has a much different hull
profile, it doesn't pound and is much more seakindly. The 44 also has major
tankage, food storage, battery space, an excellent shower, and costs about
ten times the value of our 35. It certainly is no faster than the 35.
If you want to see some pix of the trip down the coast, look here:
http://sailvalis.com/wordpress_1/?p=597


Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On Fri, 26 Apr 2019 at 10:05, Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Jim,
>
> When you say very uncomfortable, do you mean because your 35-3 would be
> slamming into waves in rough conditions? I see that the PS 44 is about
> twice the displacement of the 35, so that makes a big difference I guess.
> We have some sailing to do before we'll attempt anything like that!
>
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Power monitor meter

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

The included directions are slightly confusing.  The best way to understand
the operation is to realize that the display has 2 voltage inputs.  First
is the 2 lower terminals in the picture.  The power the unit and also
provide the volts reading on the unit.  If those 2 terminals are the only 2
connected then the screen will turn on and read battery volts with no
current draw (amps).  The best place to get the voltage reading is directly
from the battery.  These 2 lower terminals connected directly to the
battery + and - (with a small fuse of course).  Unfortunately this would
bypass the shunt so the minimal (even possibly insignificant) current draw
of the display would not register across the shunt.  It's probably such
high impedence that you'll never even seen the current draw from the
display.  I would wire it the lower 2 terminals "directly" to the battery +
and - just to ensure the most accurate voltage reading.  The shunt is
uninsulated and as such creates an exposed electrical path.  For this
reason the shunt is always attached to ground.  In most modern cases we
have negative ground systems so this means attach the shunt "directly" to
the battery neg post.  At this point only 2 things should be attached to
the negative post.  The ground wire for the meter and the shunt.  Ground
buss wire should have been disconnected from the battery and attached to
the free end of the shunt forcing ALL load current to draw through the
shunt.

The top 2 terminals of the display are the second voltage inputs and detect
the ever so slight voltage drop across the known resistance of the shunt.
As load goes up, the current through the shunt goes up and the voltage drop
across the shunt goes up.  The display registers this voltage drop and
correlates it to the appropriate current which is displayed as amps.  You
can inverse the top 2 wires to change the current reading from positive to
negative and vice versa.  I like the loads to read as negative current so
make sure it reads the way you prefer.

The charger should also be attached to the "free" end of the shunt.  With a
constant charge current applied the display should show positive current.
As the boat system loads increase, less of the current flows through the
shunt since it is being use for the loads.  If the loads equal the charge
then the display will read zero amps applied to the batter.  If load is
further increased then the current will begin to read negative current
since the battery will have to start making up the difference between that
of the loads and that of the charger.

Long winded - I know.  I hope you follow.


Summary:

- Bottom 2 terminals attached as directly as possible to the battery or
power source "+" and "-".

-Top 2 terminals used to detect the voltage drop across the shunt.
Polarity selected to suit your needs.

- Shunt is placed in line with the existing ground path such that the
ground bus is connected to the shunt and the shunt is connected to the
battery.  Positive Load path remains unchanged.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Sat, Apr 27, 2019, 9:28 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I bought one of these Bayite energy monitors (
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013PKYILS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8=1)
> at someone on the list’s suggestion and am planning to install it this
> spring. I would like to mount it at the nav table.  I am presuming I can
> connect the positive where the main power comes into the panel bus bar from
> the battery.  However, I am unclear where to connect the negatives.  The
> shunt is connected on one side to the negative side of power.  The other
> side is to negative side of load.  What does that mean in practice given
> standard boat wiring?  Thanks- Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Power monitor meter

[Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List]

I installed my shunt between the negative battery terminal and a new
negative bus bar under the quarter berth where the batteries are.  For it
to properly measure all the current loads, all circuits must go thru the
shunt.  By attaching all negative circuits to the negative bus bar that is
accomplished since the electrons must go thru the bus bar, shunt then to
the battery to close the circuit.

I used this excellent article when setting mine up:
https://marinehowto.com/installing-a-battery-monitor/

Cheers,
  Jeremy
  SV Sacre Bleu!
  C #41

-- Forwarded message --
From: David Knecht 
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Sat, 27 Apr 2019 09:28:00 -0400
Subject: Stus-List Power monitor meter
I bought one of these Bayite energy monitors (
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013PKYILS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8=1)
at someone on the list’s suggestion and am planning to install it this
spring. I would like to mount it at the nav table.  I am presuming I can
connect the positive where the main power comes into the panel bus bar from
the battery.  However, I am unclear where to connect the negatives.  The
shunt is connected on one side to the negative side of power.  The other
side is to negative side of load.  What does that mean in practice given
standard boat wiring?  Thanks- Dave
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Re: Stus-List Rudder Squeeking C 35-3

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Hi Bruce,
You didn't state if you drilled the fiberglass casing with the rudder still in 
the boat?
How did you drill through the delrin bearings without drilling into the SS 
rudder post?

C


> On April 27, 2019 at 8:51 AM bwhitmore via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Actually,  I did just that.  I carefully drilled through the fiberglass 
> rudder post and tapped the hole and installed the zerk.  Easy peasy.   Just 
> don't over tighten the zerk and strip the threads.
> 
> Bruce Whitmore 
> 1994 C 37/40+
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from Samsung tablet.
> 
>  Original message 
> From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
> Date: 4/26/19 5:17 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder Squeeking C 35-3
> 
> I don't think it's practical to add zerk fittings while the rudder is in 
> the boat.
> 
> In 2007, I had the rudder out of the tube and so was able to drill 
> through the casing and each Delrin bearing. I used a small 1/8" bit. I then 
> epoxied a stainless bushing (1/2" MPT x 1/4" FPT) to the outside of the 
> fiberglass casing using some pieces of cloth and West System 404 filler. All 
> of the threads of the bushing and the hex are captured in fiberglass 
> reinforced epoxy. The zerk fittings are screwed into the 1/4" holes. The 
> bushing allows me a way to change the zerk without bothering the epoxy. Zerks 
> have a spring loaded ball and sometimes fail. I had to replace one that 
> wouldn't stop weeping about five years ago. All stainless parts were ordered 
> from McMaster-Carr.
> 
> Chuck S, Rersolute, 1990 C 34/36R
> 
> 
> > > On April 26, 2019 at 4:18 PM David Risch via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> > 
> > Dumb question...can you install a zerk  with the rudder installed?
> > 
> > David F. Risch, J. D.
> > Gulf Stream Associates, LLC 
> > (401) 419-4650 
> > 
> > 
> > -
> > From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dennis 
> > C. via CnC-List 
> > Sent: Friday, April 26, 2019 4:07 PM
> > To: CnClist
> > Cc: Dennis C.
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder Squeeking C 35-3
> >  
> > There are vendors that sell extension hoses for grease fittings.
> > 
> > 
> > https://greaseextensionhoses.com/product/custom-length-grease-fitting-relocation-hose/
> >  
> > 
> > Only problem with that one is you have to drill and tap the cap for 
> > 1/8 NPT thread.
> > 
> > Dennis C.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > > > > 
> > > > > > > 
> > > > Does anyone know the fitting size and where I might get 
> > > > an extension hose and proper fitting to extend this out? 
> > > > Getting to the rudder post sucks. You have to take off 
> > > > the scupper hose at least, so extending this is a good idea as 
> > > > suggested by others.
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > ___
> > > > 
> > > > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your 
> > > > contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want 
> > > > to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
> > > > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > > > 
> > > > 
> > > > > > > 
> > > 
> > > > > 
> > >  
> 
> > > ___
> > 
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. 
> > Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > 
> > >  
> 
 

> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
 
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Stus-List Power monitor meter

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I bought one of these Bayite energy monitors 
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013PKYILS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8=1
 
)
 at someone on the list’s suggestion and am planning to install it this spring. 
I would like to mount it at the nav table.  I am presuming I can connect the 
positive where the main power comes into the panel bus bar from the battery.  
However, I am unclear where to connect the negatives.  The shunt is connected 
on one side to the negative side of power.  The other side is to negative side 
of load.  What does that mean in practice given standard boat wiring?  Thanks- 
Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List Rudder Squeeking C 35-3

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Actually,  I did just that.  I carefully drilled through the fiberglass rudder 
post and tapped the hole and installed the zerk.  Easy peasy.   Just don't over 
tighten the zerk and strip the threads.Bruce Whitmore 1994 C 37/40+Sent from 
Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
 Date: 4/26/19  5:17 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER  Subject: 
Re: Stus-List Rudder Squeeking C 35-3 I don't think it's practical to add 
zerk fittings while the rudder is in the boat.   In 2007, I had the rudder out 
of the tube and so was able to drill through the casing and each Delrin 
bearing.  I used a small 1/8" bit.  I then epoxied a stainless bushing (1/2" 
MPT  x  1/4" FPT) to the outside of the fiberglass casing using some pieces of 
cloth and West System 404 filler.  All of the threads of the bushing and the 
hex are captured in fiberglass reinforced epoxy.  The zerk fittings are screwed 
into the 1/4" holes.  The bushing allows me a way to change the zerk without 
bothering the epoxy.  Zerks have a spring loaded ball and sometimes fail.  I 
had to replace one that wouldn't stop weeping about five years ago.  All 
stainless parts were ordered from McMaster-Carr. Chuck S, Rersolute, 1990 C 
34/36R
 
 
  


 On April 26, 2019 at 4:18 PM David Risch via CnC-List 
 wrote:
   

   
 Dumb question...can you install a zerk  with the rudder installed?


 


 
 David F. Risch, J. D. 
 Gulf Stream Associates, LLC    
  
 (401) 419-4650   
 
 
  
  
   
  
  
 
  From: CnC-List  on behalf of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List  Sent: Friday, April 26, 2019 4:07 PM To: 
CnClist Cc: Dennis C. Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder Squeeking C 35-3 
  
    
   
  
  
   
   
There are vendors that sell extension hoses for grease fittings.

   
 

   

https://greaseextensionhoses.com/product/custom-length-grease-fitting-relocation-hose/
 

   
 

   
Only problem with that one is you have to drill and tap the cap for 1/8 
NPT thread.
 

   
 

   
Dennis C.




  
 
 
  
   

 
  
  

   
  
   Does anyone know the fitting size and where I might get an 
extension hose and proper fitting to extend this out? 
   
  
   Getting to the rudder post sucks. You have to take off the 
scupper hose at least, so extending this is a good idea as suggested by others.
   
  
 
   
  
 
   
  
 
   
  
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  
Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - 
use PayPal to send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 

   
  
  
 

   
  
 
 
   
   
  
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Re: Stus-List Weird rod

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

I had one on my C 27 MKIII.  I'm sure it is intended to keep lines & such 
from fouling the rudder.If I did not have one, I would install one.Bruce 
Whitmore 1994 C  37/40+Sent from Samsung tablet.
 Original message From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 Date: 4/26/19  6:31 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: C List 
 Cc: Josh Muckley  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Weird rod I have the same rob in front of my rudder.  This year 
enough of the bottom paint was removed that I believe I was able to see threads 
slightly exposed just as it entered the hull.  If anybody is missing this rod 
and is interested in installing one, it appears quite easy to simply drill and 
tap a hole.  Then install a stainless bolt, and then cut off the 
head.https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yTDJjOGJKa2NncFk/view?usp=drivesdkJosh
 MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+Solomons, MD On Fri, Apr 26, 2019, 6:15 PM 
svrebeccaleah via CnC-List  wrote:Both of the landfall 
models (38 & 39) have not had this bar. The 38 was hull #4 so maybe this rod 
thing is post 1979, or it wasn't installed on the landfall models. Doug 
Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah C & C LF39253-208-1412Port Orchard YC wa. 
Original message From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
 Date: 4/26/19  11:23  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Tom Buscaglia  Subject: Stus-List 
Weird rod 
I have a metal rod in front of the rudder, which I believe
is to help avoid seaweed and other floating debris from fouling the
rudder post.  Nothing at all in front of the keel though.
Tom B

.¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
SV Alera
C 37+/40
Vashon Island WA
(206) 463-9200
www.sv-alera.com


At 09:00 AM 4/26/2019, you wrote:
Message: 4
Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2019 15:58:42 + (UTC)
From: johnr...@aol.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Metal Rod Forward of Keel
Message-ID: <1965119471.1023889.1556294322...@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
All the C's in our yard have a metal rod that protrudes from the
underside just ahead of the keel.? No one seems to know its purpose.
John McLaughlinC 29-2Falcon


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Re: Stus-List C as offshore boat?

[Dave via CnC-List]

Enjoy the sail 
FWIW I only really understood what I wanted and needed from a sailboat after 
experiencing what I didn’t, and for me at least this took time. I still don’t 
have it quite right.  (Lol). I wouldn’t dwell too much on getting the right 
boat today for some future aspiration.  IMO, Get a good boat for today, and 
accept that it’ll still be imperfect.With experience You’ll progressively 
dial in on what you want, and in any case your aspirations will change over 
time.  
Good luck with (and enjoy) the adventure.
Dave -33 mk2 - (the not-ideal boat I am currently enjoying immensely)
Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 26, 2019, at 12:57 PM, Shawn Wright  wrote:
> 
> Thanks, Gary, for your thoughts. Having spent so long looking, I have become 
> more fixated on finding the right boat, but until we get some real 
> experience, we won't know what that boat is. As much as I dread the 
> possibility of selling her in a few years and beginning another search, I 
> can't see any way to avoid it. Even if we had $100K to spend, there is no 
> guarantee of finding the right boat for both local cruising, and going to the 
> South Pacific some day. We're probably going to proceed, unless something 
> serious comes up on the haul out, which doesn't seem likely. Backing out at 
> this point would likely mean not getting a boat in time for our planned trip 
> in June, or having to make a rushed decision on another boat. Getting the 10K 
> boat will do the job for a season, but I just know that I'll still be looking 
> at other boats, and I'd like to give that a rest for a while. I'm hoping to 
> go out tomorrow in some decent winds for a final trial, since we didn't get 
> much wind the first time. I plan to go below while under sail, hopefully with 
> a bit of wave height, to see what kind of movement and strange noises I hear 
> from the hull and bulkheads. I still have some concerns over the loose 
> bulkhead to cabin top connection (they just seem to loosely fit in the cabin 
> top liner groove), so I want to see how much movement is there.
> 
> The only comparable boat is a Niagara 35 ($25K) which is even better equipped 
> - radar, windvane, propane hot water. It's a boat well known for offshore 
> passage making, and I like the deeper bilge and heavier build, while it still 
> rates well under PHRF (159) so should be decent for light air. But it has 
> soggy decks are per past survey, and a cored hull. Oh, and there are two San 
> Juan 34/Crown 34s for $18 & 25K, which are closer to a C in build and 
> performance. 
> 
> I'm hoping for a good sail tomorrow, and to not find anything more that is 
> discouraging, so we can just get on with sailing, and learning to love our 
> new boat!
> 
>> On Fri, Apr 26, 2019 at 8:19 AM Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> We have owned our 30-1 for 25 years now, and, as our sailing dreams have 
>> changed, it still seems to answer the need. A couple more feet would not be 
>> a bad thing. A divorce in everything but boat ownership and the ex-Admiral 
>> still drives “her boat” with her new husband and some of the old crew on 
>> Wednesday nights and I drive “mine” at other times, do a little cruising and 
>> some weekend racing.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I’ve been watching your thought process with interest. I think, if you are 
>> comfortable with the concept of the 35II, I don’t see as much downside as 
>> others seem to see. It is a very good, stout, well sailing boat with some 
>> extras – maybe too many.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I would think that the engine issue with its complications may be a turn-off 
>> for many, but I don’t see why, with your skills, that a couple days 
>> stripping the extras out (water maker, extra batteries, and other items) you 
>> could get it down to a ‘normal’ boat. Then you have a garage full of stuff 
>> which may be handy in the future. When our hot water heater rusted into a 
>> pile, it came out, as we found our cruising to various places with marinas 
>> was more to our liking than camping out. You don’t know right now what you 
>> may end up doing with the boat in the future. Long distance cruising? 
>> Offshore? I would think that you need to spend some time developing your 
>> sailing skills and interests, then you can do more intelligent planning for 
>> future endeavors.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Just a contrary opinion.
>> 
>> Gary
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Shawn Wright via 
>> CnC-List
>> Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2019 10:38 PM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc: Shawn Wright 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List C as offshore boat?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Thanks for all the great replies. Interesting about the 30-1 setup for 
>> offshore. There is one in Victoria selling for $55K (for almost a year now) 
>> that the owner put over 50K into, but never left due to health issues. 
>> 
>> re: the hull-deck joint. This is one reason I was looking at Ericsons for 
>> months, as their glassed over joint is said to be very strong and leakproof 
>> 

Re: Stus-List Good Sailing Books

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Anything by Bernard Moitessier, Francis Chichester, Mike’s smeeton
Jonathan raban - coasting
Adrift - Steven Callaghan
Ann Davidson- last voyage, my ship is so small 
Moxie - Phil weld



Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 27, 2019, at 12:18 AM, Allan Hester  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi Tom,
> 
> No, I have not read Passage to Juneau or Ready About but I will keep them in 
> mind. Thank you.
> Over the past decade I have read dozens of cruising books from "how to" books
> to fiction.
> 
> A few that I see on my book shelf that I enjoyed:
> 
> -After 50,000 Miles by Hal Roth.
> -Trekka Round the World by John Guzzwell
> -Alone Together by Christian Williams. [he has companion videos on Youtube to 
> go with his books.
> -Wanderer by Sterling Hayden [the actor who played many roles including Sgt. 
> McCluskey in Godfather who breaks Al Pacinos jaw.] this book is an 
> autobiography which 
> includes his sailing experiences.
> -The Curve of Time by M.Wylie Blanchet. This is a quaint book written by a 
> woman in the 1920's or 30's who took her children cruising every summer along 
> BC's coast.
> -The Water in Between by Kevin Patterson. Possibly my all time favorite. Not 
> specifically about cruising but his cruise to Tahiti on his dilapidated ferro 
> cement boat
> comprisies a major part of the book. A funny story about that boat: I was on 
> Salt Spring island a number of years ago walking the docks, dreaming of boat 
> ownership when I saw 
> an old, beat up ferro cement boat. I thought to myself I wouldn't go out in 
> the bay in that thing. Then I noticed the name, "Sea Mouse" and realized it 
> was the boat from the book. Oops.
> The author is/was a physician on the island for a time. I have read his book 
> several times.
> -Last but certainly far from least, the original cruising book, "Sailing 
> Around the World" by Joshua Slocum. A must read.
> 
> My book shelves are full of books like that and many more I have given away. 
> 
> Al H.
> Pacific Ranger
> C 35-3
> Vancouver, BC.  
> 
> From: Thomas Delaney [tomcdela...@gmail.com]
> Sent: April 26, 2019 3:47 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Was  Offshore boat, now Good Sailing Books
> 
> Hi Al,
> 
> I too have enjoyed Kretschmer's books. On his recommendation, and to
> your point about sailing in Puget Sound, have you read PASSAGE TO
> JUNEAU by Jonathan Raban? Simply sublime. READY ABOUT by G. Peabody
> Gardner was another great read focusing on Maine and Nova Scotia.
> 
> Anyone else have any must-read sailing book suggestions?
> 
> Thanks,
> Tom
> 
> --
> Snow Goose
> 35-1
> City Island, NY
> 
> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Allan Hester 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2019 14:34:09 +
> Subject: Stus-List Offshore boat
> 
> 
> 
> A very interesting thread with some excellent comments and insight.
> 
> I enjoy reading offshore cruising books by such people as John
> Kretschmer which stir my imagination, so the thought of taking my C
> 35 Mk 3 offshore is in the back of my mind. A cruise down the coast to
> San Francisco, San Diego and eventually to south america and/or to
> Hawaii would be fabulous but in reality its not likely to happen.
> 
> Preparing the boat and learning all the necessary skills would be a
> tall order. In the meantime I would be missing out on cruising one of
> the most beautiful cruising areas in the world.
>> From Puget Sound to the BC Caost, west coast of Vancouver island and Alaska 
>> I think I will have enough to keep me busy and interested for decades.
> 
> I like what Josh had to say, "I say buy the boat that fits where you
> are sailing now.  Not where you think you will be sailing in the
> future."
> Very well said Josh.
> 
> I agree with that sentiment. For me and my needs a C 35 is ideal.
> Its a fine sailing boat, she carries 80 US gallons of water and with a
> few jerry jugs I can easily carry 40 gallons of fuel.
> She is outfitted with solar panels, Espar heater, sound sytem and
> other creature comforts to extend the sailing season and be
> comfortable at anchor. At 35 feet I am more likely to find a slip in
> a marina during peak season than a larger vessel and the costs of
> running a 35 foot boat are considerably less than a larger boat. The
> C 35 works for me.
> 
> On a related side note there is a 76 year young British woman named
> Jeanne Socrates currently on her 2nd solo, non-stop circumnavigation.
> She completed her 1st at the age of 70 and holds the record as the
> oldest female to have done so. She hails from Victoria, BC and is
> expected to complete her journey in early July. She maintains an
> excellent blog and does interviews while at sea. She is currently
> south of Australia and 18,000 NM into her trip. If interested her
> website and blog are here:
> 
> https://svnereida.com/
> 
> Al H.
> C 35 Mk 3
> Pacific Ranger
> Vancouver, BC
> 
> 
> 
> 

___