Re: Stus-List Tornado'storm damage

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

 Has anyone heard from Dennis in regards to the tornado and storms that rolled 
through Louisiana and Florida last night?  I do hope he and his family-and 
boat- fared Ok...are you out there Dennis! 
 
Richard
 s.v Bushmark 4; 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596
Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 

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Re: Stus-List C 37part 2

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

Richard

You only got part of the list. I have some 115 37s on my list. Seems 
that if you consecutively send out emails that approach 50k the host 
server locks you out.  I tried to send out C 36, 37, 38 and 39s, but 
only part two of the 37s made it. Below is the data associated with 
Bushmark4.


Data Age 	Year 	Type 	Hull # 	Registration 	Name 	Former Name 	Sail # 
Berthed 	Years own 	Bought 	Last 	First 	e-mail 	City 	State/Prov 	Yacht 
Club 	Phone 	First

SailYears Sailing

10-19   1985C 37 Mk1 cb   137
ZCC37137J485 	682289-c 	Bushmark 4 	Esperanza, Starfire 		Ohio River, 
Mile 596 	#REF! 	2014 	Bush 	Richard & Kay 	bushma...@aol.com 
 	Louisville 	KY 	Bull Creek YC 	502-584-7255 		


Is there an easy way to have the total list viewed by members and 
provide corrections back to me?  I can publish the list as a single pdf 
so the base List (xlsx) is not corrupted by inadvertent mistakes.  Have 
close to 2000 C on the list.


Don Kern
/Fireball/ C 35 Mk2
Bristol RI


On 4/13/2020 11:23 AM, Richard Bush wrote:
Don, in reviewing your information, I note that my boat is not 
listed;  it is s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB;


I know that there are several other 37s from the 1981-1986 group that 
are active on this list as well...

thanks
Richard
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;


Richard N. Bush Law Offices
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: Don Kern via CnC-List 
To: Charlie Nelson via CNC-List ; T Smyth via 
CnC-List 

Cc: Don Kern 
Sent: Fri, Apr 10, 2020 4:23 pm
Subject: Stus-List C 37part 2

Charlie
My list for those C 36ft are fairly large.  I will send you a couple 
of messages of what I have. Let me know if you need more data for your 
project.

any corrections/update are always appreciated
Don Kern
/Fireball/ C 35 Mk2
Bristol RI
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 171, Issue 50

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

Thanks for that info Rob.
It has been so long since mine were destroyed/removed, I don't know how or to 
what they were attached although I figure there is no way to replace them 
without removing the massive fiberglass 'hood'--about 50 screws plus it is 
likely pretty heavy.
Do your 'tracks' attach to the fixed window that the sliding hatch slides over 
as it is opened or the cabin top itself?  Before I remove the 'hood', I prefer 
to have an idea of how/where the replacement tracks should be attached.
Charlie NelsonC 36


-Original Message-
From: Rob Ball via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rob Ball 
Sent: Mon, Apr 13, 2020 3:43 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 171, Issue 50

I have had the same sliding hatch leaks. Those ‘tracks’ indeed hold water in 
that cavity outboard. If they are gone, the water can overflow that much 
easier. 
I actually added height to the sliding tracks with a strip of wood. 
Also my boat was floating bow down so that cavity forward of the hatch opening 
collected water but wouldn’t drain aft into the cockpit. I moved my anchor and 
chain out of the anchor locker to under the cockpit to change the fore-and-aft 
trim to help. 
Rob Ball.  C 34

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 171, Issue 50

[Rob Ball via CnC-List]

I have had the same sliding hatch leaks. Those ‘tracks’ indeed hold water in 
that cavity outboard. If they are gone, the water can overflow that much 
easier. 
I actually added height to the sliding tracks with a strip of wood. 
Also my boat was floating bow down so that cavity forward of the hatch opening 
collected water but wouldn’t drain aft into the cockpit. I moved my anchor and 
chain out of the anchor locker to under the cockpit to change the fore-and-aft 
trim to help. 
Rob Ball.  C 34

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 13, 2020, at 3:33 PM, "cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com" 
>  wrote:
> 
> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1.  Some deck leak questions (cenel...@aol.com)
>   2. Re:  Some deck leak questions (Neil Andersen)
>   3. Re:  Some deck leak questions (John Conklin)
>   4. Re:  Paddle Wheel Anti-fouling...? (Don Kern)
>   5.  Paddle Wheel Anti-fouling...? (Robert Abbott)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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Stus-List Paddle Wheel Anti-fouling...?

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

I use simple liquid dish detergenttried various petroleum products 
but the liquid detergent works better where my boat spends 6 months 
(normally but not this year) in the water.  Have to pull the impeller in 
August when it normally stops spinning.clean and soap, good for the 
remainder of the year.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S

On 4/13/2020 12:56 PM, Neil Andersen via CnC-List wrote:

Vasoline in the speed wheel.

Neil

Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661
484-354-8800




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Re: Stus-List Paddle Wheel Anti-fouling...?

[Don Kern via CnC-List]

David

I use this method on my boat and on the J30 crew on Wed night beer cans. 
Just loosen the collar holding the xdcr until the threads disengage, 
rotate the xdcr 180, push down and tighten collar.  No water in the boat.


Don Kern
/Fireball /C 35 Mk2
Bristol RI

On 4/13/2020 11:56 AM, David Risch via CnC-List wrote:
Thought of that, but it just seemed a bit heavy.    But will give it a 
whirl this season.  Thanks


Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.


*From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Donald 
Kern via CnC-List 

*Sent:* Monday, April 13, 2020 11:49:18 AM
*To:* David Risch via CnC-List 
*Cc:* Donald Kern 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Paddle Wheel Anti-fouling...?
David

What I found with mine is to to turn it 180, reversing the direction 
of paddle rotation.  That works about 75% of the time, then it is a 
pull and clean.


Don Kern
/Fireball /C 35 Mk2
Bristol RI

On 4/13/2020 11:32 AM, David Risch via CnC-List wrote:
My paddle wheel fouls if you just look at it...any solutions to 
reducing fouling (besides putting it in/taking it out which is a 
total PIA)


Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.


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Re: Stus-List Some deck leak questions

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Charlie,
I have the real ultralight rails in place at companionway and no issues there.
Only issue I have on this 1982 is  slight leak at the mast boot or water just 
coming down mast to bilge ? Usually like 1-2 gallons max . after a good strong 
rain
I believe the water also enters on  Deck  through my vent/connection for the 
force 10 heater, have seen some streaks on cabin wall. I plan to have someone 
stand there with the hose while below to figure out real entry point and how 
bad it is. For now I just empty my trusty pasta pot which I place along the 
cabin wall under heater, works like a charm :)

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On Apr 13, 2020, at 1:10 PM, Neil Andersen via CnC-List  
wrote:


Charlie,

For the leaks at the chain plates and/or the deck-hull joint, I have found 
washable magic markers the best.  If water is running down, the marker washes 
away.

Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661
484-354-8800

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Charlie Nelson via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 13, 2020 12:25:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: cenel...@aol.com 
Subject: Stus-List Some deck leak questions

I appear to have some leaks that need repaired and could use some list advice 
on them--I sail a 1995 C 36XL/kcb.

1. My companionway sliding hatch leaks at the forward end, near the inside 
corners of the opening likely coming down from the fixed overhead window that 
the sliding companionway window hatch slides over. The sliding hatch used to be 
guided by small teak rails (~ 1/4" x 1/4" x 2 feet (?) mounted  on the top or 
side (don't remember exactly) of the fixed window. These were destroyed over 
the years by the sliding hatch catching on them and they slowly were torn up so 
that currently there are no guides. These may also have served to prevent water 
from entering thru/around the sides of the hatch but I don't know. What does 
the list say about these regarding their function regarding water ingress? 
Replacing them would require removing the entire hood assembly which frames the 
entire hatch, sliding and fixed, so if they have no part in this leak, I can 
live without these guides.

2.The seal around my chain plate may be leaking since in a serious rain, water 
comes down the aluminum plate that ties the shrouds to the hull, at least on 
one side. My guess is that the deck is leaking where the plate goes through. If 
this penetration is in fact the source of the leak, what is the fix? My guess 
is that I need to find the leak, determine its extent and rebuild/glass and 
seal the area where the chain plate penetrate the deck. Given the boat's age, I 
would probably do both sides even if only one side currently leaks.

3. I have some water dripping from some of the bolt penetrations near or 
possibly at the metal mast collar--and from an overhead light mounted nearby. 
The source of the water is nearby but not obvious. Any hints on how to locate 
source of the leak--it is definitely not associated with any hatch and is 
likely not from water coming down the mast. The plastic/rubberized mast to mast 
collar seal will be replaced--it looks good but has been not been replaced in 
at least 5 years.

Thanks in advance,

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom





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Re: Stus-List Some deck leak questions

[Neil Andersen via CnC-List]

Charlie,

For the leaks at the chain plates and/or the deck-hull joint, I have found 
washable magic markers the best.  If water is running down, the marker washes 
away.

Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661
484-354-8800

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Charlie Nelson via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 13, 2020 12:25:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: cenel...@aol.com 
Subject: Stus-List Some deck leak questions

I appear to have some leaks that need repaired and could use some list advice 
on them--I sail a 1995 C 36XL/kcb.

1. My companionway sliding hatch leaks at the forward end, near the inside 
corners of the opening likely coming down from the fixed overhead window that 
the sliding companionway window hatch slides over. The sliding hatch used to be 
guided by small teak rails (~ 1/4" x 1/4" x 2 feet (?) mounted  on the top or 
side (don't remember exactly) of the fixed window. These were destroyed over 
the years by the sliding hatch catching on them and they slowly were torn up so 
that currently there are no guides. These may also have served to prevent water 
from entering thru/around the sides of the hatch but I don't know. What does 
the list say about these regarding their function regarding water ingress? 
Replacing them would require removing the entire hood assembly which frames the 
entire hatch, sliding and fixed, so if they have no part in this leak, I can 
live without these guides.

2.The seal around my chain plate may be leaking since in a serious rain, water 
comes down the aluminum plate that ties the shrouds to the hull, at least on 
one side. My guess is that the deck is leaking where the plate goes through. If 
this penetration is in fact the source of the leak, what is the fix? My guess 
is that I need to find the leak, determine its extent and rebuild/glass and 
seal the area where the chain plate penetrate the deck. Given the boat's age, I 
would probably do both sides even if only one side currently leaks.

3. I have some water dripping from some of the bolt penetrations near or 
possibly at the metal mast collar--and from an overhead light mounted nearby. 
The source of the water is nearby but not obvious. Any hints on how to locate 
source of the leak--it is definitely not associated with any hatch and is 
likely not from water coming down the mast. The plastic/rubberized mast to mast 
collar seal will be replaced--it looks good but has been not been replaced in 
at least 5 years.

Thanks in advance,

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom





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Stus-List Some deck leak questions

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

I appear to have some leaks that need repaired and could use some list advice 
on them--I sail a 1995 C 36XL/kcb.
1. My companionway sliding hatch leaks at the forward end, near the inside 
corners of the opening likely coming down from the fixed overhead window that 
the sliding companionway window hatch slides over. The sliding hatch used to be 
guided by small teak rails (~ 1/4" x 1/4" x 2 feet (?) mounted  on the top or 
side (don't remember exactly) of the fixed window. These were destroyed over 
the years by the sliding hatch catching on them and they slowly were torn up so 
that currently there are no guides. These may also have served to prevent water 
from entering thru/around the sides of the hatch but I don't know. What does 
the list say about these regarding their function regarding water ingress? 
Replacing them would require removing the entire hood assembly which frames the 
entire hatch, sliding and fixed, so if they have no part in this leak, I can 
live without these guides. 
2.The seal around my chain plate may be leaking since in a serious rain, water 
comes down the aluminum plate that ties the shrouds to the hull, at least on 
one side. My guess is that the deck is leaking where the plate goes through. If 
this penetration is in fact the source of the leak, what is the fix? My guess 
is that I need to find the leak, determine its extent and rebuild/glass and 
seal the area where the chain plate penetrate the deck. Given the boat's age, I 
would probably do both sides even if only one side currently leaks.
3. I have some water dripping from some of the bolt penetrations near or 
possibly at the metal mast collar--and from an overhead light mounted nearby. 
The source of the water is nearby but not obvious. Any hints on how to locate 
source of the leak--it is definitely not associated with any hatch and is 
likely not from water coming down the mast. The plastic/rubberized mast to mast 
collar seal will be replaced--it looks good but has been not been replaced in 
at least 5 years. 
Thanks in advance,
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom 



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Re: Stus-List Paddle Wheel Anti-fouling...?

[David Risch via CnC-List]

Thought of that, but it just seemed a bit heavy.But will give it a whirl 
this season.  Thanks

Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Donald Kern via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 13, 2020 11:49:18 AM
To: David Risch via CnC-List 
Cc: Donald Kern 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Paddle Wheel Anti-fouling...?

David

What I found with mine is to to turn it 180, reversing the direction of paddle 
rotation.  That works about 75% of the time, then it is a pull and clean.

Don Kern
Fireball C 35 Mk2
Bristol RI

On 4/13/2020 11:32 AM, David Risch via CnC-List wrote:
My paddle wheel fouls if you just look at it...any solutions to reducing 
fouling (besides putting it in/taking it out which is a total PIA)

Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.




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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Paddle Wheel Anti-fouling...?

[Neil Andersen via CnC-List]

Vasoline in the speed wheel.

Neil

Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661
484-354-8800

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Rod Stright via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, April 13, 2020 11:44:31 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rod Stright 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Paddle Wheel Anti-fouling...?


Transducer paint



From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of David Risch via 
CnC-List
Sent: April-13-20 12:33 PM
To: CNC CNC 
Cc: David Risch 
Subject: Stus-List Paddle Wheel Anti-fouling...?



My paddle wheel fouls if you just look at it...any solutions to reducing 
fouling (besides putting it in/taking it out which is a total PIA)

Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.


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Re: Stus-List Paddle Wheel Anti-fouling...?

[Donald Kern via CnC-List]

David

What I found with mine is to to turn it 180, reversing the direction of 
paddle rotation.  That works about 75% of the time, then it is a pull 
and clean.


Don Kern
/Fireball /C 35 Mk2
Bristol RI

On 4/13/2020 11:32 AM, David Risch via CnC-List wrote:
My paddle wheel fouls if you just look at it...any solutions to 
reducing fouling (besides putting it in/taking it out which is a total 
PIA)


Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.


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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



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Re: Stus-List Paddle Wheel Anti-fouling...?

[Rod Stright via CnC-List]

Transducer paint

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of David Risch via
CnC-List
Sent: April-13-20 12:33 PM
To: CNC CNC 
Cc: David Risch 
Subject: Stus-List Paddle Wheel Anti-fouling...?

 

My paddle wheel fouls if you just look at it...any solutions to reducing
fouling (besides putting it in/taking it out which is a total PIA)

Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you. 

 

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Stus-List Paddle Wheel Anti-fouling...?

[David Risch via CnC-List]

My paddle wheel fouls if you just look at it...any solutions to reducing 
fouling (besides putting it in/taking it out which is a total PIA)

Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.

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Re: Stus-List C 37part 2

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

 Don, in reviewing your information, I note that my boat is not listed;  it is 
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB;
 
I know that there are several other 37s from the 1981-1986 group that are 
active on this list as well...
thanks
Richard
 s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596; 


Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: Don Kern via CnC-List 
To: Charlie Nelson via CNC-List ; T Smyth via CnC-List 

Cc: Don Kern 
Sent: Fri, Apr 10, 2020 4:23 pm
Subject: Stus-List C 37part 2

  Charlie My list for those C 36ft are fairly large.  I will send you a 
couple of messages of what I have. Let me know if you need more data for your 
project.
   any corrections/update are always appreciated Don Kern
 Fireball C 35 Mk2
 Bristol RI ___

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Re: Stus-List speedometer - C 35 Mk2

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Pitot tube knotmeters are found on fast powerboats and airplanes. They don’t 
really work much below 10 knots and in both cases the tubes can get plugged 
with bugs or seaweed.
It took me literally years to find spares for my ancient S-H knotmeter that has 
been out of production since the 1980s. The paddle wheel gets clogged so easily 
I never leave it in anymore if not using it.

Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John and 
Maryann Read via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, April 13, 2020 7:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John and Maryann Read 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List speedometer - C 35 Mk2

Have had similar issues with my prior unit – Standard Horizon model 150 which 
went out of production some 15 years ago and parts are hard to come by and only 
on flea bay.
What brand and model is your speedometer?
No – no tubes per se.  Yours is all electric.  The paddle wheel has a small 
magnet in one of the blades.  As it rotates, the electric pulse is picked up by 
the transducer creating an electrical pulse which is transmitted via the wire 
to your bulkhead gauge.  The faster the wheel turns the pulse increases and 
your gauge registers greater speed.

Vast majority of issues are caused by growth around the blades, the blade shaft 
or water facing of the transducer.  Ensure this is absolutely clean and blades 
turn freely.  Normally requires cleaning several times each season.  If this is 
good, then your transducer may be worn out / faulty.  Virtually all are made by 
Airmar and their web site has an excellent cross reference of your unit to 
their current part number.  This will require re running the wire to your gauge 
which is often PITA and involves boat yoga.  In my case this fixed the problem.

When I had problem with  other units of my instruments and parts were nowhere 
to be found, Santa was very nice and provided a new suite with all the latest 
whiz bang features

Best of luck

John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C 34
Noank, CT




From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of General Gao 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2020 9:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: General Gao
Subject: Stus-List speedometer - C 35 Mk2

My speedometer was not behaving well last season. I am planning to fix it 
myself. Googled the keyword, it came up a few documents suggesting blowing the 
tube to clear clog. I looked at my gauge and where there sensor is, I don't 
seem to find a tube there. Please see the pictures attached in the link. Could 
someone help me with the diagnostics? Thank you in advance.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1nYSpxnzb1BImby5jz3ASLnSD3OYxKT3P

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1bBgw-Ln_wr2Qae-GUCk3L_I_dAQO-ekY
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Re: Stus-List speedometer - C 35 Mk2

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Have had similar issues with my prior unit – Standard Horizon model 150 which 
went out of production some 15 years ago and parts are hard to come by and only 
on flea bay.

What brand and model is your speedometer?

No – no tubes per se.  Yours is all electric.  The paddle wheel has a small 
magnet in one of the blades.  As it rotates, the electric pulse is picked up by 
the transducer creating an electrical pulse which is transmitted via the wire 
to your bulkhead gauge.  The faster the wheel turns the pulse increases and 
your gauge registers greater speed.

 

Vast majority of issues are caused by growth around the blades, the blade shaft 
or water facing of the transducer.  Ensure this is absolutely clean and blades 
turn freely.  Normally requires cleaning several times each season.  If this is 
good, then your transducer may be worn out / faulty.  Virtually all are made by 
Airmar and their web site has an excellent cross reference of your unit to 
their current part number.  This will require re running the wire to your gauge 
which is often PITA and involves boat yoga.  In my case this fixed the problem.

 

When I had problem with  other units of my instruments and parts were nowhere 
to be found, Santa was very nice and provided a new suite with all the latest 
whiz bang features

 

Best of luck

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of General Gao 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2020 9:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: General Gao
Subject: Stus-List speedometer - C 35 Mk2

 

My speedometer was not behaving well last season. I am planning to fix it 
myself. Googled the keyword, it came up a few documents suggesting blowing the 
tube to clear clog. I looked at my gauge and where there sensor is, I don't 
seem to find a tube there. Please see the pictures attached in the link. Could 
someone help me with the diagnostics? Thank you in advance.

 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1nYSpxnzb1BImby5jz3ASLnSD3OYxKT3P

 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1bBgw-Ln_wr2Qae-GUCk3L_I_dAQO-ekY

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