Re: Stus-List Painting Flexofold props?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I used to use Pettit 1792 and then followed the max prop guidance to use
Thiox.  I can't exactly say that the Pettit was better or worse.  I was
planning to use propspeed this year but the expense is outrageous and it
doesn't purport to last more than a year.  TBH the only reason I stuck with
Thiox so long is because the can just lasts and lasts.  As a result, it is
probably the most cost effective though it is not the easiest to apply and
is very hazardous.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mon, Aug 10, 2020, 20:29 Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> We are getting the bottom done on our 1994 C 37/40+, and at that time, I
> am changing a rather old 3-blade prop in not the best condition to a 3
> blade Flexofold.  The yard recommends applying Pettit 1792 to the running
> gear.  When I asked Flexofold about this, they said to not paint it for the
> first year, and see how it progresses.
>
> The only thing is, I don't intend on pulling the boat again until it needs
> a new bottom job.
>
> Do any of you folks in salt water have Flexofolds (or feathering props for
> that matter), and you you recommend applying the Pettit 1792?
>
> Thanks in advance for your insights
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Painting Flexofold props?

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

Last time I had a yard do bottom work they suggested zinc rich spray paint 
(cold galvanize). I let them apply it and two years later it looks pretty good, 
no hard growth at all. This time I did my own bottom work and I redid the prop 
the same way. It’s certainly cheap enough. 

Al Liles
SV Elendil 
C 37/40+
Vancouver BC


> 
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Stus-List Repowering a C 36 to Electric?

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Unless you only want to be able to move around the marina, electric is not a 
viable option. 36 pounds of gas will take me 36 miles. 36 pounds of batteries 
would probably get me out of the slip, over to the fuel dock, and back to my 
slip.
Get the engine repaired for FAR less than it would cost to fill your boat with 
batteries.


Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Fitteral 
Mindspring via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2020 4:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Fitteral Mindspring 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Repowering a C 36 to Electric?

Hello all,

I am on the precipice of being C owner and already have a question (actually 
several).



I am purchasing a 1981 C 36 which has a sound hull, deck, sails but has the 
original Yanmar 3GM30 which is overheating and, at a very minimum, needs a new 
head gasket.  Additionally the transmission is a little suspect so I am 
pursuing my options, one of which is an electric repower/conversion. The quiet, 
green, instant start and low/no maintenance aspects are all enticing to me.  
Additionally, the thought of investing a chunk of change on a rebuild of a 40 
yr old engine and transmission isn't terribly appealing to me.  Another aspect 
of this is, that while I know a bit about engines, don't have any experience 
working with marine diesels.  While I am always interested in learning, I feel 
that marine diesels is perhaps a learning rabbit-hole I could avoid.



I currently have a smaller (Chrysler 22') boat and am purchasing this boat with 
the anticipation to take longer day sails, weekend cruises and an occasional 
longer close-ish to shore trip (no plans for open ocean passages at this time). 
 I do intend to stay under sail whenever possible.



I currently have a slip so will have access to shore power when at home, 
however this may not always be the case on longer trips.  I am exploring solar, 
regen & a portable supplemental generator for re-charging while underway.



The C 36 currently has navigation, radar, miscellaneous electronics which we 
need powered.  No A/C or heat on the boat nor anticipation of installing them.  
There is a hot water heater which is currently heated by the diesel engine so 
would need to convert that to keep the Admiral happy.



Looking to see if anyone out there has considered and/or attempted this 
conversion and would like to get your thoughts and experiences.   One of the 
primary questions (beyond whether I should attempt it at all) is whether to go 
with a SailDrive or simply drive the existing shaft/prop with the electric.



Also, if anyone recommendations for installers in the CT/NY area.  The boat is 
in CT and I am based in NY.  I could potentially do it myself since my season 
is likely shot but wanted to get some configurations/estimates from installers 
from which I could potentially use to derive configuration ideas.



Apologies for the long-winded, multi-part, question but it's a relatively big 
decision.



Thank you in advance,
Chandler Rohal
TBD
C 36
Rockaway Park, NY
___

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Re: Stus-List Sunglasses favorites

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

When I had my cataract surgeries a few years ago (I had worn bifocals since 
about 7th grade – and was moderately worried that I’d end up looking like Mr. 
McGoo after I stopped wearing glasses), I bought a crap load of sunglasses. 
Needed them after I could see like a normal person. Costas, Maui Jim, etc., 
etc., etc. I even had a pair of Bolle polarized prescription aviator glasses 
converted back to dark non-prescription lenses. Most have ended up in the 
drawer on the boat where I keep sunglasses, glasses straps, and lid leashes for 
guests.

 

You asked for favorites. I have a pair of Bolle Contour safety glasses at the 
marina, at home, in each car, and a couple on each boat. I buy the ones with 
what Bolle calls ESP lenses. Non polarized. Lens is an amber color like 
shooting glasses. UVA/UVB rated. Polarized lenses don’t work well with the 
chart plotter and AIS. Real dark lenses don’t work well for me early and late 
when the brightness goes down.

 

The ESP lenses, according to Bolle, filters out about 90% of the blue light and 
reduces glare, but transmits most of the rest of the sunlight, so I get a 
really sharp view even as you get near sunset. You can even walk from bright 
sunlight into a building and still see with them on and not need to remove the 
sunglasses – or wait for the lens to go light like my progressive sunglasses. 

 

They also cost like $20 a pair on EBay.

 

I hate to tell you the price. But, honestly, I like them a whole lot better 
that the $100+ Costas.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, August 9, 2020 5:04 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Sunglasses favorites

 

After wearing prescription glasses since age 3, I'm getting lens implants and 
will be able to toss Rx glasses.  I can now buy off the shelf sunglasses.  Wow!

 

What are your favorites for sailing?  For clarification, lens specifics and 
perceived efficiency as well as brand and model information will be helpful to 
me and perhaps to others but my specific purchase will most likely be a pair 
with nose pads as the bridge of my nose is very narrow.  The wide bridge 
plastic frames just don't work for me.
-- 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

___

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Stus-List Painting Flexofold props?

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

I have used Pettit 1793 on the Maxprop 3 blade folding prop on my last two haul 
outs.  It holds up for about a year or so here in the Pacific Northwest.  I 
suspect 1792 is comparable.

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660


> On Aug 10, 2020, at 8:24 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Mon, 10 Aug 2020 22:43:39 -0400
> From: "Rick Brass" 
> To: 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Painting Flexofold props?
> Message-ID: <01d66f89$38bafeb0$aa30fc10$@earthlink.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> FWIW, my Flexofold prop is painted with a product used by most of the 
> commercial fishermen in Eastern NC called Propspeed.
> 
> 
> 
> I don?t know anything about Pettit 1792. But past efforts to use bottom paint 
> on a prop have not been very useful. The bottom paint tends to sluff off 
> pretty quickly, probably due to cavitation.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rick Brass
> 
> Washington, NC
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Repowering a C 36 to Electric?

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Welcome to the C fraternity, Chandler.

 

If you want to explore an electric conversion, look up a company called
Solomon's Wheel. They are using AC motors and sophisticated electronic
controllers to do some interesting things. I've seen a fairly large, hybrid,
sport fisherman (about 40' or so) that uses four of their pancake motors (28
HP mounted as 2 tandem installations on 2 prop shafts) and can get the boat
up on plane. Unfortunately the battery bank was 2 fairly good size forklift
batteries and a 7 KW diesel genset for recharging/surge power as I recall.

 

I have a very nice young lady in my marina who (rather naively, I think)
converted her Cal 29-2 to electric power. She has 4 golf cart batteries as a
combined 12v motive power-house bank. And gets about 45 minutes of run time
out of the system - basically enough time to leave the slip and put up
sails. She has had to sail into the slip a few times with dead batteries
from running the instruments, VHF, and stereo while sailing. She now carries
a 2000W Honda generator on deck so she can recharge batteries and have
lights and entertainment when she anchors out. She really needs 4 4d or 8d
batteries instead of 4 golf cart batteries, but where the heck could you put
them on a 30 foot boat (or a 36)?

 

BTW, electric motors work a lot better at higher voltages. I came from the
forklift business, and DC powered trucks are customarily 36 or 48 volts,
with the more sophisticated and efficient AC power truck are usually 72 or
80 volt. Conversion of a boat is not just a matter of dropping in an small
forklift motor.

 

Get a competent mechanic to look at your existing engine. You said it need a
head gasket - no biggie. If you need a new engine get a price for a Beta or
a Universal, both are marineized Kubota industrial diesels and probably
accommodate the same pattern of motor mounts as your 3 cylinder Yanmar. Feed
your diesel clean fuel and clean air and it will outlive you.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Fitteral
Mindspring via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2020 4:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Fitteral Mindspring 
Subject: Stus-List Repowering a C 36 to Electric?

 

Hello all,  

 

I am on the precipice of being C owner and already have a question
(actually several).  

 

I am purchasing a 1981 C 36 which has a sound hull, deck, sails but has
the original Yanmar 3GM30 which is overheating and, at a very minimum, needs
a new head gasket.  Additionally the transmission is a little suspect so I
am pursuing my options, one of which is an electric repower/conversion. The
quiet, green, instant start and low/no maintenance aspects are all enticing
to me.  Additionally, the thought of investing a chunk of change on a
rebuild of a 40 yr old engine and transmission isn't terribly appealing to
me.  Another aspect of this is, that while I know a bit about engines, don't
have any experience working with marine diesels.  While I am always
interested in learning, I feel that marine diesels is perhaps a learning
rabbit-hole I could avoid.  

 

I currently have a smaller (Chrysler 22') boat and am purchasing this boat
with the anticipation to take longer day sails, weekend cruises and an
occasional longer close-ish to shore trip (no plans for open ocean passages
at this time).  I do intend to stay under sail whenever possible.  

 

I currently have a slip so will have access to shore power when at home,
however this may not always be the case on longer trips.  I am exploring
solar, regen & a portable supplemental generator for re-charging while
underway.

  

The C 36 currently has navigation, radar, miscellaneous electronics which
we need powered.  No A/C or heat on the boat nor anticipation of installing
them.  There is a hot water heater which is currently heated by the diesel
engine so would need to convert that to keep the Admiral happy.  

 

Looking to see if anyone out there has considered and/or attempted this
conversion and would like to get your thoughts and experiences.   One of the
primary questions (beyond whether I should attempt it at all) is whether to
go with a SailDrive or simply drive the existing shaft/prop with the
electric.  

 

Also, if anyone recommendations for installers in the CT/NY area.  The boat
is in CT and I am based in NY.  I could potentially do it myself since my
season is likely shot but wanted to get some configurations/estimates from
installers from which I could potentially use to derive configuration ideas.


 

Apologies for the long-winded, multi-part, question but it's a relatively
big decision.  

 

Thank you in advance,

Chandler Rohal

TBD

C 36

Rockaway Park, NY

___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Painting Flexofold props?

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

FWIW, my Flexofold prop is painted with a product used by most of the 
commercial fishermen in Eastern NC called Propspeed.

 

I don’t know anything about Pettit 1792. But past efforts to use bottom paint 
on a prop have not been very useful. The bottom paint tends to sluff off pretty 
quickly, probably due to cavitation.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2020 8:29 PM
To: C List 
Cc: Bruce Whitmore 
Subject: Stus-List Painting Flexofold props?

 

Hello all,

 

We are getting the bottom done on our 1994 C 37/40+, and at that time, I am 
changing a rather old 3-blade prop in not the best condition to a 3 blade 
Flexofold.  The yard recommends applying Pettit 1792 to the running gear.  When 
I asked Flexofold about this, they said to not paint it for the first year, and 
see how it progresses. 

 

The only thing is, I don't intend on pulling the boat again until it needs a 
new bottom job.

 

Do any of you folks in salt water have Flexofolds (or feathering props for that 
matter), and you you recommend applying the Pettit 1792?

 

Thanks in advance for your insights

 

Bruce Whitmore

___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Repowering a C 36 to Electric?

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Hi. Chandler,
Welcome to the list. I own an 82- standard  37ft has original 3HM
Very first day out engine overheated. New mixing elbow took care of that  
beyond that and a simple freshwater pump rebuilt runs great! Only issue I have 
is little vibration  so I  try to motor only out of channel and often sail in 
under headsail. I think it’s motor mounts as they look original ?? But beyond 
that I would not change engine or boat:) i love UMA dan can fix anything! 
Unfortunately I am not so savvy on all things boat if I she dies I will go Beta 
for sure !


John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On Aug 10, 2020, at 6:36 PM, Nathan Post via CnC-List  
wrote:


Hi Chandler,

Welcome to the list!  While an electric conversion does have its challenges in 
terms of cost and performance, I too am very much interested in this approach 
and would love to go that route at some point and get away from fossil fuel 
based aux power. I am not sure if or when I will do so as I have a fully 
functional Westerbeke 20B2 on my C 34 and it does have advantages in terms of 
range and power, but I definitely dislike the noise and vibration and use of 
fossil fuel.  Also from an environmental power while not great, this is a 
pretty minor contribution to my overall carbon footprint as I only typically go 
through about 20 gallons a year.

There are people who have successfully done electric conversions on 
displacement hull boats of this size and vintage.  Sailing Uma (youtube 
channel) https://www.sailinguma.com/electro-beke has successfully made their 
Pearson 36 and sailing lifestyle work around a limited electric aux propulsion 
system and solar charging when off grid.  They originally used inexpensive and 
used parts (forklift motor and golf cart batteries) to cobble together a system 
that got them in and out of the harbor.  Later, they upgraded to lithium 
batteries and more recently a sail drive.  From their experience, while the 
sail drive is cool, I am not sure it makes sense on a boat that was designed 
with a shaft going through the hull.  I think the real key is being willing to 
plan around your capability in terms of range and speed.  If you deal with 
large tides like here in the north east then pushing against a current for 
hours might just not be an option with an electric system.  So for us, trying 
to get in and out of our channel for a quick evening sail might not work well 
if I don't want to time it with the tides.  On the other hand if I had an hour 
or so of range at 4 or 5 knots with some to spare, it would be fine (and I 
would actually want to design a system with more like 4-6 hours of range at 5 
knots)

One thing I have been told is that the biggest problem with electric 
conversions is that while there are lots of components on the market, nobody is 
building a whole system where they can do the system design and you actually 
get what you are told.  Thus, particularly on newer more expensive boats where 
the owners are expecting equivalent performance to a diesel, they are getting 
disappointed.  Thus, you pretty much have to design the system yourself and run 
your own performance numbers since you will be pairing a battery and motor and 
controller and prop together on your own.  There will be some guess work and 
experimentation involved too and a good understanding of energy and power is 
important.

If I do go down this road, I would want a system with pretty good performance 
and range (think $) and would likely buy new components so I would expect to 
put something in the ballpark of 20k into the project (I haven't actually 
designed and specect a system yet so that is just a rough guess but figure $10k 
for the batteries (~20 kWh), and $10k for motor (~8 kW), controller, charger.  
At that point from a pure cost perspective, I suspect a brand new Beta engine 
would be less expensive.

I have wondered about doing a conversion using a (crashed) electric vehicle 
which might be cheaper and could have significantly better performance - 
however, i have pretty much decided that a 380 volt DC system isn't great from 
a safety perspective and the lithium ion batteries require close thermal 
management which makes things a lot more complicated and they have serious fire 
concerns so much better off going with lithium iron instead and keeping it to 
48 volts I think.

The heating water is an interesting challenge too.  For short trips if you have 
shore power ahead of time and a good hot water heater (I have an Isotherm 5 
gallon), you can heat it up ahead of time and it will stay hot or at least warm 
a long time (2 days?).  resistive heating will go through the batteries I 
suspect but perhaps there is a small heat pump type hot water heater available? 
 They make larger ones for houses that are pretty efficient, but not sure about 
boats.  There are propane hot water heaters if you want to keep that fuel on 
board.

And then getting as much solar as possible will 

Re: Stus-List Teak Maintanance

[General Gao via CnC-List]

Hi everyone,

Thank you for the insights.

Hi Danny,

If you have the information somewhere, I'd like to read it. So that I have
one more option.

Thank you in advance.

Bo

On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 8:22 PM Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I've personally done the heat gun  method on several boards that were
> about 24 inches by 11 inches.  It worked really well in removing only the
> varnish.
>
> The key is to stay focused and not burn the teak and holly.
>
> I would not hesitate to do it again that way.
>
>
> Thanks,
> Danny
>
>  Original message 
> From: Neil Andersen via CnC-List 
> Date: 8/10/20 5:37 PM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Neil Andersen 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Teak Maintanance
>
> Amen!!
>
> Neil Andersen
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Joel
> Aronson via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, August 10, 2020 5:36 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Joel Aronson
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Teak Maintanance
>
> Do not use a power sander.
>
> On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 5:31 PM Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> You will probably have to sand it down and refinish it with a good marine
>> varnish.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> Bob Boyer
>> s/v Rainy Days
>> C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
>> (Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on
>> the ICW in between)
>> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>>
>> On Aug 10, 2020, at 2:55 PM, General Gao via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> 
>> Hi everyone,
>>
>> Just wondering about the my interior teak maintenance. The picture below
>> shows what it looks like now. I tried to use paper towel, teak cleaner,
>> teak oil, did not change a thing. Should I use scrubber or I am not on the
>> right track? The yellow color seems to be from something that "grow" from
>> the wood.
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1L3b7cvaYxZN8wRMuZiEZhDCDYk5-Pihn/view?usp=sharing
>>
>>
>> Thank you,
>>
>> Bo
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> --
> Joel
>
>
>
> 
>
> Top News - Sponsored By Newser
> 
>
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>
>- *Report: 'Caravans' of Looters Drove Into Downtown Chicago*
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>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Painting Flexofold props?

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Bruce,

The last time a yard convinced me to put a coating on the prop was a decade 
ago. 

My experience is that a painted prop quickly loses its paint in a short amount 
of time. The last several times I hauled my boat, the prop was mostly clean 
except for a barnacle or two - there was far more growth on the bottom. 

I assume you have a diver who cleans your bottom regularly. The prop is an easy 
clean.

Others may disagree, but I think it’s a waste of money.  

All the best, 

Edd

———-
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
www.StarshipSailing.com
———-
914.774.9767   | Mobile
———-
Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize


On Aug 10, 2020, at 8:29 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Hello all,

We are getting the bottom done on our 1994 C 37/40+, and at that time, I am 
changing a rather old 3-blade prop in not the best condition to a 3 blade 
Flexofold.  The yard recommends applying Pettit 1792 to the running gear.  When 
I asked Flexofold about this, they said to not paint it for the first year, and 
see how it progresses. 

The only thing is, I don't intend on pulling the boat again until it needs a 
new bottom job.

Do any of you folks in salt water have Flexofolds (or feathering props for that 
matter), and you you recommend applying the Pettit 1792?

Thanks in advance for your insights

Bruce Whitmore

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Painting Flexofold props?

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all,
We are getting the bottom done on our 1994 C 37/40+, and at that time, I am 
changing a rather old 3-blade prop in not the best condition to a 3 blade 
Flexofold.  The yard recommends applying Pettit 1792 to the running gear.  When 
I asked Flexofold about this, they said to not paint it for the first year, and 
see how it progresses. 

The only thing is, I don't intend on pulling the boat again until it needs a 
new bottom job.
Do any of you folks in salt water have Flexofolds (or feathering props for that 
matter), and you you recommend applying the Pettit 1792?
Thanks in advance for your insights

Bruce Whitmore

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Teak Maintanance

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I've personally done the heat gun  method on several boards that were about 24 
inches by 11 inches.  It worked really well in removing only the varnish.  The 
key is to stay focused and not burn the teak and holly.  I would not hesitate 
to do it again that way. Thanks, Danny
 Original message From: Neil Andersen via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/10/20  5:37 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Neil Andersen  Subject: 
Re: Stus-List Teak Maintanance 




Amen!!




Neil Andersen
Rock Hall, MD 21661




From: CnC-List  on behalf of Joel Aronson via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2020 5:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Teak Maintanance
 



Do not use a power sander. 



On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 5:31 PM Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
 wrote:


You will probably have to sand it down and refinish it with a good marine 
varnish.


Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com


On Aug 10, 2020, at 2:55 PM, General Gao via CnC-List  
wrote:





Hi everyone,


Just wondering about the my interior teak maintenance. The picture below shows 
what it looks like now. I tried to use paper towel, teak cleaner, teak oil, did 
not change a thing. Should I use scrubber or I am not on the right track? The 
yellow color seems
 to be from something that "grow" from the wood.


https://drive.google.com/file/d/1L3b7cvaYxZN8wRMuZiEZhDCDYk5-Pihn/view?usp=sharing





Thank you,


Bo

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-- 


Joel 








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Re: Stus-List Repowering a C 36 to Electric?

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

Hi Chandler,

Welcome to the list!  While an electric conversion does have its challenges
in terms of cost and performance, I too am very much interested in this
approach and would love to go that route at some point and get away from
fossil fuel based aux power. I am not sure if or when I will do so as I
have a fully functional Westerbeke 20B2 on my C 34 and it does have
advantages in terms of range and power, but I definitely dislike the noise
and vibration and use of fossil fuel.  Also from an environmental power
while not great, this is a pretty minor contribution to my overall carbon
footprint as I only typically go through about 20 gallons a year.

There are people who have successfully done electric conversions on
displacement hull boats of this size and vintage.  Sailing Uma (youtube
channel) https://www.sailinguma.com/electro-beke has successfully made
their Pearson 36 and sailing lifestyle work around a limited electric aux
propulsion system and solar charging when off grid.  They originally used
inexpensive and used parts (forklift motor and golf cart batteries) to
cobble together a system that got them in and out of the harbor.  Later,
they upgraded to lithium batteries and more recently a sail drive.  From
their experience, while the sail drive is cool, I am not sure it makes
sense on a boat that was designed with a shaft going through the hull.  I
think the real key is being willing to plan around your capability in terms
of range and speed.  If you deal with large tides like here in the north
east then pushing against a current for hours might just not be an option
with an electric system.  So for us, trying to get in and out of our
channel for a quick evening sail might not work well if I don't want to
time it with the tides.  On the other hand if I had an hour or so of range
at 4 or 5 knots with some to spare, it would be fine (and I would actually
want to design a system with more like 4-6 hours of range at 5 knots)

One thing I have been told is that the biggest problem with electric
conversions is that while there are lots of components on the market,
nobody is building a whole system where they can do the system design and
you actually get what you are told.  Thus, particularly on newer more
expensive boats where the owners are expecting equivalent performance to a
diesel, they are getting disappointed.  Thus, you pretty much have to
design the system yourself and run your own performance numbers since you
will be pairing a battery and motor and controller and prop together on
your own.  There will be some guess work and experimentation involved too
and a good understanding of energy and power is important.

If I do go down this road, I would want a system with pretty good
performance and range (think $) and would likely buy new components so I
would expect to put something in the ballpark of 20k into the project (I
haven't actually designed and specect a system yet so that is just a rough
guess but figure $10k for the batteries (~20 kWh), and $10k for motor (~8
kW), controller, charger.  At that point from a pure cost perspective, I
suspect a brand new Beta engine would be less expensive.

I have wondered about doing a conversion using a (crashed) electric vehicle
which might be cheaper and could have significantly better performance -
however, i have pretty much decided that a 380 volt DC system isn't great
from a safety perspective and the lithium ion batteries require close
thermal management which makes things a lot more complicated and they have
serious fire concerns so much better off going with lithium iron instead
and keeping it to 48 volts I think.

The heating water is an interesting challenge too.  For short trips if you
have shore power ahead of time and a good hot water heater (I have an
Isotherm 5 gallon), you can heat it up ahead of time and it will stay hot
or at least warm a long time (2 days?).  resistive heating will go through
the batteries I suspect but perhaps there is a small heat pump type hot
water heater available?  They make larger ones for houses that are pretty
efficient, but not sure about boats.  There are propane hot water heaters
if you want to keep that fuel on board.

And then getting as much solar as possible will be important (on top of
conserving power).  That also adds costs. Something on the order of 400 -
600 watts might get you 4 kWh of charge on a sunny 12 hour day (sun isn't
always overhead) - full recharge over a week?  But on the other hand, what
does my boat do for 95% of the summer - sit in the sun!

Lots to think about but sounds like a great project!  Unfortunately, if you
are just looking for simple works and you can go when and where you want,
the other responses saying get a new Beta diesel probably are the way to go.

Nathan
S/V Wisper
1981 C 34
Lynn MA
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Re: Stus-List Repowering a C 36 to Electric?

[Michael Brannon via CnC-List]

Chandler,   I replaced my 3QM30 about 10 years ago with a 3YM30.   I don’t 
think that I’d attempt a change to an all electric set up at this point.   
Stick with what has worked reliably in the past.  

Sail safe, 

Mike

Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295
1978 C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA




> On Aug 10, 2020, at 5:46 PM, Bailey White via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> hi Chandler,
> 
> I have the same boat and very much enjoy it.  It sails very well and the main 
> salon is a great size for this length of boat.  I sail in mostly light air, 
> so I'm glad to have a boat that is somewhat powered up and mine has three 
> speed winches which make the big genoa easy to trim.
> 
> My boat has an atomic four, and I've thought about changing it as it has 
> needed a little work over the last year.  My feeling is that electric is 
> intriguing for all the reasons you mention but expensive and limiting in 
> range.  On our local lake, the range issue isn't that big.  On the east coast 
> where you can sail extensive distances or need the capability to ride out 
> large storms, range is a bigger issue.  
> 
> If I had to change this year, I would pick a used diesel for cost, range, and 
> resale reasons.  I think we will mostly see electric / hybrid systems on high 
> end new boats and eventually trickle down to boats like ours.  There are 
> already exceptions like the Sailing Uma folks who have time and eventually 
> sponsorship to retrofit electric to older boats now.  
> 
> In addition, COVID-19 has brought a lot of demand for boat maintenance and 
> repair work as people have the time to enjoy the water in areas I know of.  
> Getting a large project complete may take longer and cost more this year.  
> Hopefully you can find a way to get the diesel going and enjoy the rest of 
> the season.
> 
> Bailey White
> C 36
> Atlanta, GA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List Repowering a C 36 to Electric?

[Bailey White via CnC-List]

hi Chandler,

I have the same boat and very much enjoy it.  It sails very well and the
main salon is a great size for this length of boat.  I sail in mostly light
air, so I'm glad to have a boat that is somewhat powered up and mine has
three speed winches which make the big genoa easy to trim.

My boat has an atomic four, and I've thought about changing it as it has
needed a little work over the last year.  My feeling is that electric is
intriguing for all the reasons you mention but expensive and limiting
in range.  On our local lake, the range issue isn't that big.  On the east
coast where you can sail extensive distances or need the capability to ride
out large storms, range is a bigger issue.

If I had to change this year, I would pick a used diesel for cost, range,
and resale reasons.  I think we will mostly see electric / hybrid systems
on high end new boats and eventually trickle down to boats like ours.
There are already exceptions like the Sailing Uma folks who have time and
eventually sponsorship to retrofit electric to older boats now.

In addition, COVID-19 has brought a lot of demand for boat maintenance and
repair work as people have the time to enjoy the water in areas I know of.
Getting a large project complete may take longer and cost more this year.
Hopefully you can find a way to get the diesel going and enjoy the rest of
the season.

Bailey White
C 36
Atlanta, GA
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Re: Stus-List Repowering a C 36 to Electric?

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I am going to be a bit contrary in my reply. I applaud your interest in
converting to electricity (as I have had that thought process), but after
just replacing the cylinder head on my two cylinder Yanmar, you may be
attempting a larger job than necessary.

 

A diesel is a simple engine. It is like an old car engine. Assuming it turns
over (which apparently it does as it overheats) what may be wrong is similar
to what I just experienced. Mine was overheating to the point where it would
not run. Repair, replace, new or used? Researching the options, I decided
that I would pull the head off and take a look.  I have some engine building
experience, but on Volkswagen and Porsche engines. A VW engine is also
simple as is a Porsche four cylinder. I figured a simple overhead valve
diesel would not be a killer project and it was not. Once the head is off
(which was not easy because of 40 years of rusty fasteners), the only thing
needed to be done to the block was to make sure the water passages were
clear. That was not easy because the engine was still in the boat and the
working area was a hassle. My old knees didn't like me. I had to buy a new
cylinder head as mine was cracked (about a quarter inch between the exhaust
valve and the injector) where it would not be easy to weld. The new cylinder
head was not cheap but came complete with the valves installed, so it was
rather simple to mount it. Make sure you have the valves timed with the
pistons and adjusted, and it ran! Gat a new set of hoses, as the old ones
never seem to go on as easy as they come off. And, all the auxiliary stuff
just bolts back on. I didn't have to realign anything, or build new mounts,
design anything or figure out the weights or any of that. And the cost was
less than half of another old 'take out' with questionable history and 1/10
or less than conversion to a new diesel (counting things like exhaust
system, prop, shaft, wiring, etc.)..

 

Just another viewpoint. 

 

Gary Nylander, 30-1, 2QM15

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Fitteral
Mindspring via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2020 4:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   
Cc: Fitteral Mindspring fitte...@mindspring.com
  subject: Stus-List Repowering a C 36 to
Electric?

 

Hello all,  

 

I am on the precipice of being C owner and already have a question
(actually several).  

 

I am purchasing a 1981 C 36 which has a sound hull, deck, sails but has
the original Yanmar 3GM30 which is overheating and, at a very minimum, needs
a new head gasket.  Additionally the transmission is a little suspect so I
am pursuing my options, one of which is an electric repower/conversion. The
quiet, green, instant start and low/no maintenance aspects are all enticing
to me.  Additionally, the thought of investing a chunk of change on a
rebuild of a 40 yr old engine and transmission isn't terribly appealing to
me.  Another aspect of this is, that while I know a bit about engines, don't
have any experience working with marine diesels.  While I am always
interested in learning, I feel that marine diesels is perhaps a learning
rabbit-hole I could avoid.  

 

I currently have a smaller (Chrysler 22') boat and am purchasing this boat
with the anticipation to take longer day sails, weekend cruises and an
occasional longer close-ish to shore trip (no plans for open ocean passages
at this time).  I do intend to stay under sail whenever possible.  

 

I currently have a slip so will have access to shore power when at home,
however this may not always be the case on longer trips.  I am exploring
solar, regen & a portable supplemental generator for re-charging while
underway.

  

The C 36 currently has navigation, radar, miscellaneous electronics which
we need powered.  No A/C or heat on the boat nor anticipation of installing
them.  There is a hot water heater which is currently heated by the diesel
engine so would need to convert that to keep the Admiral happy.  

 

Looking to see if anyone out there has considered and/or attempted this
conversion and would like to get your thoughts and experiences.   One of the
primary questions (beyond whether I should attempt it at all) is whether to
go with a SailDrive or simply drive the existing shaft/prop with the
electric.  

 

Also, if anyone recommendations for installers in the CT/NY area.  The boat
is in CT and I am based in NY.  I could potentially do it myself since my
season is likely shot but wanted to get some configurations/estimates from
installers from which I could potentially use to derive configuration ideas.


 

Apologies for the long-winded, multi-part, question but it's a relatively
big decision.  

 

Thank you in advance,

Chandler Rohal

TBD

C 36

Rockaway Park, NY

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Re: Stus-List Teak Maintanance

[Neil Andersen via CnC-List]

Amen!!

Neil Andersen
Rock Hall, MD 21661

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Joel Aronson via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2020 5:36 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Teak Maintanance

Do not use a power sander.

On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 5:31 PM Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
You will probably have to sand it down and refinish it with a good marine 
varnish.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

On Aug 10, 2020, at 2:55 PM, General Gao via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Hi everyone,

Just wondering about the my interior teak maintenance. The picture below shows 
what it looks like now. I tried to use paper towel, teak cleaner, teak oil, did 
not change a thing. Should I use scrubber or I am not on the right track? The 
yellow color seems to be from something that "grow" from the wood.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1L3b7cvaYxZN8wRMuZiEZhDCDYk5-Pihn/view?usp=sharing


Thank you,

Bo
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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

--
Joel

___

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Re: Stus-List Teak Maintanance

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Do not use a power sander.

On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 5:31 PM Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> You will probably have to sand it down and refinish it with a good marine
> varnish.
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
> (Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on
> the ICW in between)
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>
> On Aug 10, 2020, at 2:55 PM, General Gao via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
> Hi everyone,
>
> Just wondering about the my interior teak maintenance. The picture below
> shows what it looks like now. I tried to use paper towel, teak cleaner,
> teak oil, did not change a thing. Should I use scrubber or I am not on the
> right track? The yellow color seems to be from something that "grow" from
> the wood.
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1L3b7cvaYxZN8wRMuZiEZhDCDYk5-Pihn/view?usp=sharing
>
>
> Thank you,
>
> Bo
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Joel
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Re: Stus-List Teak Maintanance

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

You will probably have to sand it down and refinish it with a good marine 
varnish.

Bob

Bob Boyer
s/v Rainy Days
C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
(Spending winters in the Bahamas, summers in Baltimore, and somewhere on the 
ICW in between)
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
email: dainyr...@icloud.com

> On Aug 10, 2020, at 2:55 PM, General Gao via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> Just wondering about the my interior teak maintenance. The picture below 
> shows what it looks like now. I tried to use paper towel, teak cleaner, teak 
> oil, did not change a thing. Should I use scrubber or I am not on the right 
> track? The yellow color seems to be from something that "grow" from the wood.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1L3b7cvaYxZN8wRMuZiEZhDCDYk5-Pihn/view?usp=sharing
> 
> 
> Thank you,
> 
> Bo
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List speedometer - C 35 Mk2

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Absolutely Inconceivable!!

 

I have an old transducer here that I cut out of my boat, with 4 Paddles, and 2 
magnets.

 

 

Bill Coleman 

Erie PA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of General Gao 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2020 2:46 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: General Gao
Subject: Re: Stus-List speedometer - C 35 Mk2

 

I verified the paddle before launch, I only have one magnet and it is there. No 
abnormalities found there.

 

Bo

 

On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 9:51 AM Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Heh heh!

No doubt where that entered my lexicon. I have at least a dozen regularly used 
lines from that movie!

 

Bill

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ & 
Melody via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 07, 2020 10:53 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody
Subject: Re: Stus-List speedometer - C 35 Mk2

 

Hi Bill,

You bring me a smile with this.

It's inconceivable!  I love the movie. The missus & I watch it at least once 
every year. 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qhXjcZdk5QQ

Cheers, Russ


At 06:43 AM 8/5/2020, you wrote:



It is inconceivable that a magnet could be missing, unless you are missing an 
entire leg of one of the four paddles, as they are molded right inside the 
plastic.
Did you pull it out and check it with a magnet?
 
Bill Coleman
Erie PA

Cc: Russ & Melody
Subject: Re: Stus-List speedometer - C 35 Mk2
 

What is the number o' magnets supposed you be on the paddle-wheel? If it is 
more than one then one is missing,

Cheers, Russ



At 09:57 AM 8/4/2020, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
 boundary="3255BA44138849C8E1038307"
Content-Language: en-US

One possible thing is the calibration is way off.

Joe

Coquina
On 8/4/2020 12:21 PM, General Gao wrote:

I wanted to come back to this thread. Did some cleaning on land, had my 
daughter rotated the Hall effect sensor, the needle moved, thought it was all 
good. We later launched the boat and it turned out that the reading was off 
still. It read about half of what it was supposed to be.

What would this indicate?

Thanks,

Bo

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Re: Stus-List Teak Maintanance

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

It’s fine unless ocd is involved

On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 3:55 PM General Gao via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi everyone,
>
> Just wondering about the my interior teak maintenance. The picture below
> shows what it looks like now. I tried to use paper towel, teak cleaner,
> teak oil, did not change a thing. Should I use scrubber or I am not on the
> right track? The yellow color seems to be from something that "grow" from
> the wood.
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1L3b7cvaYxZN8wRMuZiEZhDCDYk5-Pihn/view?usp=sharing
>
>
> Thank you,
>
> Bo
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List Repowering a C 36 to Electric?

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Chandler,

Welcome to the list and congratulations on your new boat. 

While electric may be the more “green” way to go in the long (really long) run, 
in my opinion, don’t do it. Between the cost of an electric motor that’s big 
enough, removing the fuel tank, and purchasing the many (MANY) lithium 
batteries to drive it, you will find the cost overwhelming. Pushing a C 36, 
especially through some chop, takes a lot of juice. When you’re at the dock, 
shore power could top you off, but I don’t think any solar or wind generator 
would keep up with the demand. Do your research. While it may be good for a 
boat in the 20-30 ft range, I just don’t think we are there yet technology-wise 
for heavier displacement boats. 

So on to the diesel. For the most part, diesel engines are pretty easy to 
maintain — just keep to a schedule of oil changes, filter changes strainer 
cleaning, impeller checks, etc. There’s plenty of literature and videos on 
YouTube on maintaining your engine. Yes, problems can occur, but mechanics are 
also very easy to find.

Suggest you do not do a rebuild or buy someone’s rebuilt engine. In my 
research, I have found that rebuilds aren’t always to spec and you’re just 
buying what could be a temporary band-aid. Instead, consider a repower with a 
brand new engine. You could spend big bucks on a replacement Yanmar, but odds 
are you’ll save a ton with a Beta with the same mounts — which is a marine-ized 
Kubota engine.  And I also suggest keeping the current shaft/prop 
configuration. 

I did a repower in 2015 from a Universal M35 to a Beta 30. Been great.  

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 











On Aug 10, 2020, at 4:54 PM, Fitteral Mindspring via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hello all,  
 
I am on the precipice of being C owner and already have a question (actually 
several).  
 
I am purchasing a 1981 C 36 which has a sound hull, deck, sails but has the 
original Yanmar 3GM30 which is overheating and, at a very minimum, needs a new 
head gasket.  Additionally the transmission is a little suspect so I am 
pursuing my options, one of which is an electric repower/conversion. The quiet, 
green, instant start and low/no maintenance aspects are all enticing to me.  
Additionally, the thought of investing a chunk of change on a rebuild of a 40 
yr old engine and transmission isn’t terribly appealing to me.  Another aspect 
of this is, that while I know a bit about engines, don’t have any experience 
working with marine diesels.  While I am always interested in learning, I feel 
that marine diesels is perhaps a learning rabbit-hole I could avoid.  
 
I currently have a smaller (Chrysler 22') boat and am purchasing this boat with 
the anticipation to take longer day sails, weekend cruises and an occasional 
longer close-ish to shore trip (no plans for open ocean passages at this time). 
 I do intend to stay under sail whenever possible.  
 
I currently have a slip so will have access to shore power when at home, 
however this may not always be the case on longer trips.  I am exploring solar, 
regen & a portable supplemental generator for re-charging while underway.
  
The C 36 currently has navigation, radar, miscellaneous electronics which we 
need powered.  No A/C or heat on the boat nor anticipation of installing them.  
There is a hot water heater which is currently heated by the diesel engine so 
would need to convert that to keep the Admiral happy.  
 
Looking to see if anyone out there has considered and/or attempted this 
conversion and would like to get your thoughts and experiences.   One of the 
primary questions (beyond whether I should attempt it at all) is whether to go 
with a SailDrive or simply drive the existing shaft/prop with the electric.  
 
Also, if anyone recommendations for installers in the CT/NY area.  The boat is 
in CT and I am based in NY.  I could potentially do it myself since my season 
is likely shot but wanted to get some configurations/estimates from installers 
from which I could potentially use to derive configuration ideas.  
 
Apologies for the long-winded, multi-part, question but it’s a relatively big 
decision.  
 
Thank you in advance,
Chandler Rohal
TBD
C 36
Rockaway Park, NY
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Re: Stus-List Teak Maintanance

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

The yellow is moisture under the finish.  You need to strip the finish, carefully and refinish. 


I have an article somewhere that explains a technique using a heat gun and a 2 inch scraper. 


If you're interested I'll try and dig that up.   


It's not really difficult but it is a time consuming project...


Danny


thanks,

Danny


From: General Gao via CnC-List Sent: Monday, August 10, 2020, 4:41 PMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: General GaoSubject: Re: Stus-List Teak MaintananceHi Neil,Sorry but you lost me there, what am I supposed to do? Could you elaborate?Thanks,BoOn Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 4:37 PM Neil Andersen via CnC-List  wrote:








Bo,


The discoloring is from water.  Tone need to CAREFULLY get down through the varnish without messing with the holly sole.





Neil Andersen
Rock Hall, MD 21661




From: CnC-List  on behalf of General Gao via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2020 2:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: General Gao
Subject: Stus-List Teak Maintanance
 


Hi everyone,


Just wondering about the my interior teak maintenance. The picture below shows what it looks like now. I tried to use paper towel, teak cleaner, teak oil, did not change a thing. Should I use scrubber or I am not on the right track? The yellow color seems
 to be from something that "grow" from the wood.


https://drive.google.com/file/d/1L3b7cvaYxZN8wRMuZiEZhDCDYk5-Pihn/view?usp=sharing





Thank you,


Bo





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Stus-List Repowering a C 36 to Electric?

[Fitteral Mindspring via CnC-List]

Hello all,  

 

I am on the precipice of being C owner and already have a question
(actually several).  

 

I am purchasing a 1981 C 36 which has a sound hull, deck, sails but has
the original Yanmar 3GM30 which is overheating and, at a very minimum, needs
a new head gasket.  Additionally the transmission is a little suspect so I
am pursuing my options, one of which is an electric repower/conversion. The
quiet, green, instant start and low/no maintenance aspects are all enticing
to me.  Additionally, the thought of investing a chunk of change on a
rebuild of a 40 yr old engine and transmission isn't terribly appealing to
me.  Another aspect of this is, that while I know a bit about engines, don't
have any experience working with marine diesels.  While I am always
interested in learning, I feel that marine diesels is perhaps a learning
rabbit-hole I could avoid.  

 

I currently have a smaller (Chrysler 22') boat and am purchasing this boat
with the anticipation to take longer day sails, weekend cruises and an
occasional longer close-ish to shore trip (no plans for open ocean passages
at this time).  I do intend to stay under sail whenever possible.  

 

I currently have a slip so will have access to shore power when at home,
however this may not always be the case on longer trips.  I am exploring
solar, regen & a portable supplemental generator for re-charging while
underway.

  

The C 36 currently has navigation, radar, miscellaneous electronics which
we need powered.  No A/C or heat on the boat nor anticipation of installing
them.  There is a hot water heater which is currently heated by the diesel
engine so would need to convert that to keep the Admiral happy.  

 

Looking to see if anyone out there has considered and/or attempted this
conversion and would like to get your thoughts and experiences.   One of the
primary questions (beyond whether I should attempt it at all) is whether to
go with a SailDrive or simply drive the existing shaft/prop with the
electric.  

 

Also, if anyone recommendations for installers in the CT/NY area.  The boat
is in CT and I am based in NY.  I could potentially do it myself since my
season is likely shot but wanted to get some configurations/estimates from
installers from which I could potentially use to derive configuration ideas.


 

Apologies for the long-winded, multi-part, question but it's a relatively
big decision.  

 

Thank you in advance,

Chandler Rohal

TBD

C 36

Rockaway Park, NY

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Re: Stus-List Teak Maintanance

[General Gao via CnC-List]

Hi Neil,

Sorry but you lost me there, what am I supposed to do? Could you elaborate?

Thanks,

Bo

On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 4:37 PM Neil Andersen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Bo,
>
> The discoloring is from water.  Tone need to CAREFULLY get down through
> the varnish without messing with the holly sole.
>
> Neil Andersen
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of General Gao
> via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, August 10, 2020 2:55 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* General Gao
> *Subject:* Stus-List Teak Maintanance
>
> Hi everyone,
>
> Just wondering about the my interior teak maintenance. The picture below
> shows what it looks like now. I tried to use paper towel, teak cleaner,
> teak oil, did not change a thing. Should I use scrubber or I am not on the
> right track? The yellow color seems to be from something that "grow" from
> the wood.
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1L3b7cvaYxZN8wRMuZiEZhDCDYk5-Pihn/view?usp=sharing
>
>
> Thank you,
>
> Bo
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Teak Maintanance

[Neil Andersen via CnC-List]

Bo,

The discoloring is from water.  Tone need to CAREFULLY get down through the 
varnish without messing with the holly sole.

Neil Andersen
Rock Hall, MD 21661

From: CnC-List  on behalf of General Gao via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2020 2:55 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: General Gao
Subject: Stus-List Teak Maintanance

Hi everyone,

Just wondering about the my interior teak maintenance. The picture below shows 
what it looks like now. I tried to use paper towel, teak cleaner, teak oil, did 
not change a thing. Should I use scrubber or I am not on the right track? The 
yellow color seems to be from something that "grow" from the wood.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1L3b7cvaYxZN8wRMuZiEZhDCDYk5-Pihn/view?usp=sharing


Thank you,

Bo
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Stus-List Teak Maintanance

[General Gao via CnC-List]

Hi everyone,

Just wondering about the my interior teak maintenance. The picture below
shows what it looks like now. I tried to use paper towel, teak cleaner,
teak oil, did not change a thing. Should I use scrubber or I am not on the
right track? The yellow color seems to be from something that "grow" from
the wood.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1L3b7cvaYxZN8wRMuZiEZhDCDYk5-Pihn/view?usp=sharing


Thank you,

Bo
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Re: Stus-List speedometer - C 35 Mk2

[General Gao via CnC-List]

I verified the paddle before launch, I only have one magnet and it is
there. No abnormalities found there.

Bo

On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 9:51 AM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Heh heh!
>
> No doubt where that entered my lexicon. I have at least a dozen regularly
> used lines from that movie!
>
>
>
> Bill
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Russ
> & Melody via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, August 07, 2020 10:53 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Russ & Melody
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List speedometer - C 35 Mk2
>
>
>
> Hi Bill,
>
> You bring me a smile with this.
>
> It's inconceivable!  I love the movie. The missus & I watch it at least
> once every year.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qhXjcZdk5QQ
>
> Cheers, Russ
>
>
> At 06:43 AM 8/5/2020, you wrote:
>
>
> It is inconceivable that a magnet could be missing, unless you are missing
> an entire leg of one of the four paddles, as they are molded right inside
> the plastic.
> Did you pull it out and check it with a magnet?
>
> Bill Coleman
> Erie PA
>
> *Cc:* Russ & Melody
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List speedometer - C 35 Mk2
>
>
> What is the number o' magnets supposed you be on the paddle-wheel? If it
> is more than one then one is missing,
>
> Cheers, Russ
>
>
>
> At 09:57 AM 8/4/2020, you wrote:
>
> Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
>  boundary="3255BA44138849C8E1038307"
> Content-Language: en-US
>
> One possible thing is the calibration is way off.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
> On 8/4/2020 12:21 PM, General Gao wrote:
>
> I wanted to come back to this thread. Did some cleaning on land, had my
> daughter rotated the Hall effect sensor, the needle moved, thought it was
> all good. We later launched the boat and it turned out that the reading was
> off still. It read about half of what it was supposed to be.
>
> What would this indicate?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bo
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Sunglasses favorites

[David Jacobs via CnC-List]

Vuarnets feel like giving your eyes a cool glass of water.



> On Aug 10, 2020, at 11:03 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> My all-time favorites are H2Optix. Sadly not made for years now L
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
> www.dellabarba.com 
>  
>  
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Sunglasses favorites

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

My all-time favorites are H2Optix. Sadly not made for years now ☹


Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com


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Re: Stus-List Sunglasses favorites

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Thanks, Francois

I actually have a pair of Ray Ban metal aviators very similar to those.  I
am replacing the Rx lenses with lenses from:

https://www.fuselenses.com/

I am still exploring buying a "really nice" pair.  The carbon fiber
aviators will be on the list for consideration.

My internet research for "best sailing sunglasses" revealed one
"interesting" option.

https://www.amazon.com/SUNGAIT-Lightweight-Rectangular-Sunglasses-Protection/dp/B01M0D52OK

https://www.amazon.com/SUNGAIT-Lightweight-Rectangular-Sunglasses-Protection/dp/B01M0D52OK


For $20, why not?  If they go over the side I won't cry.  Those could be
for racing, rough seas, etc.
-- 
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Mon, Aug 10, 2020 at 9:21 AM Francois Rivard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Rayban Carbon Frame Aviators.  Why pay extra for Carbon?  They are light /
> very stiff / don't lose their adjustment and stay on your face.
>
> First pair of sunglasses I've ever owned that doesn't try to slide off my
> face constantly after a year or 2 of use.
>
> Given the fact that they are entrusted to keep $800.00 progressive
> prescription lenses from hitting the pavement or contributing to Davy
> Jones' locker they're well worth the money.  I've had them for almost 5
> years and plan on keeping them when I refresh the lens prescription which
> is a first for me on any prescription glasses.
>
> PS: Yes, I wear them with floating croakies just in case when I'm sailing
> but so far, they would not have fallen off regardless.
>
>
> https://www.sunglasshut.com/us/ray-ban/rb8313-8053672006650?cid=PM-FGS_200709-PLA-SmartShopping-RayBan-%7bproduct_gtin%7d=CjwKCAjw4MP5BRBtEiwASfwALwoZ1lRvOAiQSm4HNr-OYArExbBhEyi48Kt2F2Fozo__jl9KypBPbxoCqpIQAvD_BwE=aw.ds
>
> Regards,
>
> Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, GA
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Sunglasses favorites

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

I like my Oakley Radar ones the best. The lenses are larger and curve around 
the front of your head so that you have less glare. The sun and the telltales 
or the masthead don’t always line up the way you like. 

They also seem to hug my fat head better than others.

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 











On Aug 10, 2020, at 10:19 AM, Francois Rivard via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Rayban Carbon Frame Aviators.  Why pay extra for Carbon?  They are light / very 
stiff / don't lose their adjustment and stay on your face.  

First pair of sunglasses I've ever owned that doesn't try to slide off my face 
constantly after a year or 2 of use.  

Given the fact that they are entrusted to keep $800.00 progressive prescription 
lenses from hitting the pavement or contributing to Davy Jones' locker they're 
well worth the money.  I've had them for almost 5 years and plan on keeping 
them when I refresh the lens prescription which is a first for me on any 
prescription glasses.   

PS: Yes, I wear them with floating croakies just in case when I'm sailing but 
so far, they would not have fallen off regardless.  

https://www.sunglasshut.com/us/ray-ban/rb8313-8053672006650?cid=PM-FGS_200709-PLA-SmartShopping-RayBan-%7bproduct_gtin%7d=CjwKCAjw4MP5BRBtEiwASfwALwoZ1lRvOAiQSm4HNr-OYArExbBhEyi48Kt2F2Fozo__jl9KypBPbxoCqpIQAvD_BwE=aw.ds
 


Regards, 

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
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Re: Stus-List Sunglasses favorites

[Rod Stright via CnC-List]

Agree they are great but so are Costa Tuna Alley  
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-MPqaI2bN9Q and they do provide some support to 
the marine environment.

 

Rod

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike via 
CnC-List
Sent: August-10-20 9:27 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sunglasses favorites

 

Maui Jim have great lenses and are really fun to replace when they go 
overboard.  They belong on a boat because they cost several boat bucks just 
like everything else on a boat!

 

Mike Hoyt

Persistence

Halifax, NS

 

From: CnC-List <  
cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> On Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: August 9, 2020 6:04 PM
To: CnClist <  CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Dennis C. <  capt...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List Sunglasses favorites

 

After wearing prescription glasses since age 3, I'm getting lens implants and 
will be able to toss Rx glasses.  I can now buy off the shelf sunglasses.  Wow!

 

What are your favorites for sailing?  For clarification, lens specifics and 
perceived efficiency as well as brand and model information will be helpful to 
me and perhaps to others but my specific purchase will most likely be a pair 
with nose pads as the bridge of my nose is very narrow.  The wide bridge 
plastic frames just don't work for me.
-- 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

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Stus-List Sunglasses favorites

[Francois Rivard via CnC-List]

Rayban Carbon Frame Aviators.  Why pay extra for Carbon?  They are light /
very stiff / don't lose their adjustment and stay on your face.

First pair of sunglasses I've ever owned that doesn't try to slide off my
face constantly after a year or 2 of use.

Given the fact that they are entrusted to keep $800.00 progressive
prescription lenses from hitting the pavement or contributing to Davy
Jones' locker they're well worth the money.  I've had them for almost 5
years and plan on keeping them when I refresh the lens prescription which
is a first for me on any prescription glasses.

PS: Yes, I wear them with floating croakies just in case when I'm sailing
but so far, they would not have fallen off regardless.

https://www.sunglasshut.com/us/ray-ban/rb8313-8053672006650?cid=PM-FGS_200709-PLA-SmartShopping-RayBan-%7bproduct_gtin%7d=CjwKCAjw4MP5BRBtEiwASfwALwoZ1lRvOAiQSm4HNr-OYArExbBhEyi48Kt2F2Fozo__jl9KypBPbxoCqpIQAvD_BwE=aw.ds

Regards,

Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, GA
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Re: Stus-List Sunglasses favorites

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I think it is more complicated than polarized or not.  Most plastic is 
inherently UV blocking and that includes most contact lenses.  Glass does not 
block much UV, but coatings can be applied for that purpose.  If the lenses are 
darkened (as in sunglasses), it blocks all wavelengths to roughly the same 
extent.  Polarization generally does not have any particular effect on UV as 
opposed to any other wavelength of light.  So it is really about material and 
coatings.  I doubt there are many sunglasses (if any) sold today that are not 
UV blocking, but they should always have a tag that says 100% UVA/UVB 
protection.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Aug 10, 2020, at 8:30 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have always believed that non polarized lenses are very bad for your eyes 
> because they do not block UV but do keep your pupils wide open.  I guess if 
> not polarized you could wear mirrored glasses for that purpose
>  
> You guys are right about instruments.  With polarized Maui Jim, Gill or 
> whatever else I can only read instruments when they are straight ahead and 
> not at an angle.  Chart plotter at helm is OK.  This of course often results 
> in lifting the glasses and putting them on top of head or ball cap.  This 
> then can result in another trip to sunglasses store.
>  
> Mike Hoyt
> Persistence
> Halifax
>  
> From: CnC-List  > On Behalf Of Paul Fountain via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: August 9, 2020 8:35 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Paul Fountain mailto:p...@seasource.ca>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Sunglasses favorites
>  
> I won’t use polarized lenses, a hold over from my flying days,  bot do keep a 
> pair on board when south for reef spotting.
>  
> Paul
> From: CnC-List  > on behalf of David Knecht via 
> CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Sent: Sunday, August 9, 2020 6:11:14 PM
> To: CnC CnC discussion list  >
> Cc: David Knecht mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Sunglasses favorites
>  
> I have had trouble reading the screen of my Chartplotter with polarized 
> glasses.  Don’t you find that a problem?  Dave
> 
> 
> On Aug 9, 2020, at 6:07 PM, Joel Delamirande via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>  
> ray band and maui jim polarized 
>  
>  
>  
> David Knecht
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> 

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Re: Stus-List speedometer - C 35 Mk2

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Heh heh!

No doubt where that entered my lexicon. I have at least a dozen regularly
used lines from that movie!

 

Bill

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Russ &
Melody via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 07, 2020 10:53 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody
Subject: Re: Stus-List speedometer - C 35 Mk2

 

Hi Bill,

You bring me a smile with this.

It's inconceivable!  I love the movie. The missus & I watch it at least once
every year. 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qhXjcZdk5QQ

Cheers, Russ


At 06:43 AM 8/5/2020, you wrote:




It is inconceivable that a magnet could be missing, unless you are missing
an entire leg of one of the four paddles, as they are molded right inside
the plastic.
Did you pull it out and check it with a magnet?
 
Bill Coleman
Erie PA

Cc: Russ & Melody
Subject: Re: Stus-List speedometer - C 35 Mk2
 

What is the number o' magnets supposed you be on the paddle-wheel? If it is
more than one then one is missing,

Cheers, Russ



At 09:57 AM 8/4/2020, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
 boundary="3255BA44138849C8E1038307"
Content-Language: en-US

One possible thing is the calibration is way off.

Joe

Coquina
On 8/4/2020 12:21 PM, General Gao wrote:

I wanted to come back to this thread. Did some cleaning on land, had my
daughter rotated the Hall effect sensor, the needle moved, thought it was
all good. We later launched the boat and it turned out that the reading was
off still. It read about half of what it was supposed to be.

What would this indicate?

Thanks,

Bo

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Re: Stus-List Sunglasses favorites

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

???
Polarized lenses and IR/UV protection are not related. The lens tint controls 
the frequencies passed, the polarization controls the reflected light.
My sextant has no polarizing filters at all and I can look straight at the sun 
through a 4X scope.

Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35  MK I
www.dellabarba.com



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2020 8:31 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Sunglasses favorites

I have always believed that non polarized lenses are very bad for your eyes 
because they do not block UV but do keep your pupils wide open.  I guess if not 
polarized you could wear mirrored glasses for that purpose

You guys are right about instruments.  With polarized Maui Jim, Gill or 
whatever else I can only read instruments when they are straight ahead and not 
at an angle.  Chart plotter at helm is OK.  This of course often results in 
lifting the glasses and putting them on top of head or ball cap.  This then can 
result in another trip to sunglasses store.

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax
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Re: Stus-List C 37+ Mast Head Light

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

You're welcome!  Just be careful, I've heard some people have Hella lights
not aqua signal.  I don't know if the Hella lights are aftermarket or not.

Josh

On Mon, Aug 10, 2020, 08:36 Rob Hamlin  wrote:

> Great info thanks Josh
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 9, 2020, at 10:04 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
> My original lights were all Aqua Signal Series 40.
>
> On my boat.  The original tri-color and anchor light were all in a single
> masthead unit.
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IVAHW0/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_wCkmFbVDBV65Y
>
> I replaced with 2 different LED bulbs.
> Tri-color:
>
> https://store.marinebeam.com/indexed-bayonet-tri-color-led-bulb-for-aqua-signal-series-40/
>
> Bow/stern/anchor:
>
> https://store.marinebeam.com/bay15d-replacement-led-bulb-for-aqua-signal-series-40-50-55/
>
> I for the anchor light marinebeam makes an innovative product which has a
> photo sensor.  It turns the anchor light off in the daylight.  This is what
> I bought instead of the bow/stern/anchor link above.
>
> https://store.marinebeam.com/dusk-to-dawn-automatic-photocell-led-anchor-light-bulb/
>
>
>
> The steaming light/foredeck light combo is an aqua signal 25.
>
> https://www.aquasignal.com.au/shop/masthead-topp/series-25-masthead-foredeck/
>
>  I initially replaced the bulbs.
> Steaming:
>
> https://store.marinebeam.com/30-led-44mm-dimple-barrel-end-festoon-for-aqua-signal-navigation-lights-fs-44-30b/
>
> Foredeck:
>
> https://store.marinebeam.com/high-powered-ba9s-deck-steaming-light-led-ba-9s-5w/
>
> Later, I ultimately replaced the entire unit with this:
> https://store.marinebeam.com/led-masthead-foredeck-combination-light/
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Sun, Aug 9, 2020, 20:07 Rob Hamlin via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Hi
>> To avoid two trips up the stick, know of a replacement LED bulb in kind
>> for the mast head light?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Rob
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List C 37+ Mast Head Light

[Rob Hamlin via CnC-List]

Great info thanks Josh

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 9, 2020, at 10:04 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> My original lights were all Aqua Signal Series 40.
> 
> On my boat.  The original tri-color and anchor light were all in a single 
> masthead unit.
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002IVAHW0/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_wCkmFbVDBV65Y
> 
> I replaced with 2 different LED bulbs.
> Tri-color:
> https://store.marinebeam.com/indexed-bayonet-tri-color-led-bulb-for-aqua-signal-series-40/
> 
> Bow/stern/anchor:
> https://store.marinebeam.com/bay15d-replacement-led-bulb-for-aqua-signal-series-40-50-55/
> 
> I for the anchor light marinebeam makes an innovative product which has a 
> photo sensor.  It turns the anchor light off in the daylight.  This is what I 
> bought instead of the bow/stern/anchor link above.
> https://store.marinebeam.com/dusk-to-dawn-automatic-photocell-led-anchor-light-bulb/
> 
> 
> 
> The steaming light/foredeck light combo is an aqua signal 25.
> https://www.aquasignal.com.au/shop/masthead-topp/series-25-masthead-foredeck/
> 
>  I initially replaced the bulbs.
> Steaming:
> https://store.marinebeam.com/30-led-44mm-dimple-barrel-end-festoon-for-aqua-signal-navigation-lights-fs-44-30b/
> 
> Foredeck:
> https://store.marinebeam.com/high-powered-ba9s-deck-steaming-light-led-ba-9s-5w/
> 
> Later, I ultimately replaced the entire unit with this:
> https://store.marinebeam.com/led-masthead-foredeck-combination-light/
> 
> Josh Muckley 
> S/V Sea Hawk 
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
>> On Sun, Aug 9, 2020, 20:07 Rob Hamlin via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> Hi
>> To avoid two trips up the stick, know of a replacement LED bulb in kind for 
>> the mast head light?  
>> 
>> Thanks
>> Rob
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Sunglasses favorites

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

I have always believed that non polarized lenses are very bad for your eyes 
because they do not block UV but do keep your pupils wide open.  I guess if not 
polarized you could wear mirrored glasses for that purpose

You guys are right about instruments.  With polarized Maui Jim, Gill or 
whatever else I can only read instruments when they are straight ahead and not 
at an angle.  Chart plotter at helm is OK.  This of course often results in 
lifting the glasses and putting them on top of head or ball cap.  This then can 
result in another trip to sunglasses store.

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Paul Fountain via 
CnC-List
Sent: August 9, 2020 8:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Paul Fountain 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sunglasses favorites

I won't use polarized lenses, a hold over from my flying days,  bot do keep a 
pair on board when south for reef spotting.

Paul

From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> on behalf 
of David Knecht via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Sunday, August 9, 2020 6:11:14 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: David Knecht mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sunglasses favorites

I have had trouble reading the screen of my Chartplotter with polarized 
glasses.  Don't you find that a problem?  Dave


On Aug 9, 2020, at 6:07 PM, Joel Delamirande via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

ray band and maui jim polarized



David Knecht
S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

[cid:image001.png@01D66EF8.EB303C40]

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Re: Stus-List Sunglasses favorites

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

I have unpolarized sunglasses with reading lenses at the bottom that 
work well for the chartplotter.


Joe

Coquina

On 8/9/2020 6:11 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
I have had trouble reading the screen of my Chartplotter with 
polarized glasses.  Don’t you find that a problem?  Dave


On Aug 9, 2020, at 6:07 PM, Joel Delamirande via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


ray band and maui jim polarized




David Knecht
S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List Sunglasses favorites

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Maui Jim have great lenses and are really fun to replace when they go 
overboard.  They belong on a boat because they cost several boat bucks just 
like everything else on a boat!

Mike Hoyt
Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Dennis C. via 
CnC-List
Sent: August 9, 2020 6:04 PM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Stus-List Sunglasses favorites

After wearing prescription glasses since age 3, I'm getting lens implants and 
will be able to toss Rx glasses.  I can now buy off the shelf sunglasses.  Wow!

What are your favorites for sailing?  For clarification, lens specifics and 
perceived efficiency as well as brand and model information will be helpful to 
me and perhaps to others but my specific purchase will most likely be a pair 
with nose pads as the bridge of my nose is very narrow.  The wide bridge 
plastic frames just don't work for me.
--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Sunglasses favorites

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

I love my Costa Del Mar and the glass lens allows me to read perfectly  all but 
1 instrument for some reason ?
Also recommend the Revo
I do have the Maui with split  Magnified lower I keep in chart table

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On Aug 10, 2020, at 12:37 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Depending on the glasses (manufacturer) the twist angle is different. I find 
that some of them don’t work with my heads-up display (in the car), but I never 
had any issue with the chartplotter (or the watch for that matter). The 
worst-case scenario - you have to twist your head a tad.

It is worth checking when you buy them.

Marek

From: CnC-List On Behalf Of David Knecht via CnC-List
Sent: 9 August, 2020 18:11
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sunglasses favorites

I have had trouble reading the screen of my Chartplotter with polarized 
glasses.  Don’t you find that a problem?  Dave


On Aug 9, 2020, at 6:07 PM, Joel Delamirande via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

ray band and maui jim polarized



David Knecht
S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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