Stus-List Re: C&C 35 Mk 1

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Glen,

I installed a Rule electric bilge pump that sits in the after part of 
the bilge and discharges into the port forward cockpit scupper drain 
hose just under the cockpit sole (opposite the scupper with the sink 
drain).  A check valve is a good idea with this arrangement, even though 
the connection into the drain is above the waterline.  I then put a 
float switch on a strap (stainless) that has a hole big enough to fit 
over one of the keelbolts, uing a jam nut to hold the strap to the bolt.


It's a long story but my boat does not have the deep sump under the mast 
step - it was filled in - but if you put the suction hose down into the 
sump it will need a float switch there also.  There are switches that 
would fit but it would a job getting one in there, I would imagine.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 1/25/2021 4:25 PM, Glen Eddie via CnC-List wrote:


Hello everyone,

I have a C&C 35 Mk I.  As many know, it didn’t come with an automatic 
bilge pump (just a manual whale gusher).  I want to install an 
automatic bilge pump this off season and would like to hear 
suggestions.  I think the hose should go into the bilge well below the 
mast step but I am wondering to what people affixed the switch.


As always, thanks in advance.








Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Kiwi Grip

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Hey Tom,
Do you remember how many gallons of Kiwi Grip were used on your 35 and what 
they cost?

Thanks,
Chuck S

> On 01/25/2021 10:44 PM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> We used Kiwi grip on our 35 MK 1.  Once the masking was done it went on 
> easily.  I can’t say how long it held up since we got 5 footitis and got 
> Alera within a year or two.
> 
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera 
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
>  
> 
> 
> > > On Jan 25, 2021, at 7:40 PM, cenelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > > 
> > >  Any thoughts about Kiwi grip?.
> > 
> > Relatively cheap, easily applied and tinted by DIYers and it holds 
> > up well.
> > 
> > 
> > Sent from the all new Aol app for iOS 
> > https://apps.apple.com/us/app/aol-news-email-weather-video/id646100661
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > On Monday, January 25, 2021, 7:31 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
> >  wrote:
> > 
> > > > > I bought the same stuff off Amazon a few 
> > years ago that George referenced above. It was such a nice change and from 
> > a grip, comfort, and cooling standpoint. I will say that the grey layer on 
> > top is thin and became unbonded to the black substrate below, eventually 
> > falling off completely. This may have been from sun/rain exposure over the 
> > two years. The black substrate makes up the bulk of the thickness and is 
> > the EVA foam I believe. While it is still comfortable and slip resistant, 
> > the aesthetics are not ideal. I rubbed off what grey was left  and now the 
> > aesthetic is a uniform black. 
> > > I have considered re-applying with a solid color grey or 
> > > similar and not the faux weathered teak. I can not justify at this time 
> > > the Raptor Deck expense, but would say that it is a superior product. 
> > > I do think this budget material would work great down below 
> > > and would have many benefits. The only caveat being that dust and grit 
> > > obviously will seek the low point in the profile and so you will probably 
> > > need a dustbuster handy in lieu of the standard dust pan. 
> > > KD
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 1:37 PM George Cone via CnC-List < 
> > > cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> > > 
> > > > > > > 
> > > > Bruno,
> > > > 
> > > >  
> > > > 
> > > > I offer this as a thought, I purchased some of this 
> > > > material as a test, planning to remove it and buy the real expensive 
> > > > stuff,  because I was concerned how it would hold up under the stress 
> > > > of my dog. An active retriever. I was amazed how good it has worked and 
> > > > in-fact bought some more to finish the job.
> > > > 
> > > >  
> > > > 
> > > > Take a look on amazon -- CHURERSHINING EVA Teak Decking 
> > > > Sheet for Boat Yacht Marine Floor Carpet Non-Slip and Self-Adhesive 
> > > > Bevel Edge 94.5"x35.4" 
> > > > https://www.amazon.com/CHURERSHINING-Decking-Marine-Flooring-Adhesive/dp/B07P62SWB4/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=boat+deck+covering&qid=1611610224&sr=8-2
> > > > 
> > > >  
> > > > 
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > 
> > > > George Cone
> > > > 
> > > > C&C 40
> > > > 
> > > >  
> > > > 
> > > >  
> > > > 
> > > > From: Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
> > > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
> > > > Sent: Monday, January 25, 2021 4:26 PM
> > > > To: 'Stus-List'  > > > mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com >
> > > > Cc: Bruno Lachance  > > > mailto:bruno_lacha...@hotmail.com >
> > > > Subject: Stus-List Seadeck / Raptor deck eva foam for 
> > > > cockpit
> > > > 
> > > >  
> > > > 
> > > > Hi,
> > > > 
> > > >  
> > > > 
> > > > The cockpit antiskip is long overdue on our 1987 33-2 
> > > > and even with really good deck shoes it is now just unsafe. Our plan is 
> > > > to cover the cockpit sole, benches and bridgedeck with 5 mm light grey. 
> > > > The templates are made and both companies (Seadeck and Raptor) do 
> > > > custom work. You send theme the templates and they send you a quote. 
> > > > But before i send them my precious templates,  I would like to have a 
> > > > ballpark estimate, anybody on the list that have done the same and 
> > > > could give me a rough estimate. It could be from a C&C 29 to a let's 
> > > > say 37.
> > > > 
> > > >  
> > > > 
> > > > I have sailed on boats where the cockpit sole was 
> > > > covered with Raptor deck as antiskid. I loved the feel of it and the 
> > > > grip is really good and more comfy. I would prefer this to paint.
> > > > 
> > > >  

Stus-List Re: Seadeck / Raptor deck eva foam for cockpit

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

We used Kiwi grip on our 35 MK 1.  Once the masking was done it went on easily. 
 I can’t say how long it held up since we got 5 footitis and got Alera within a 
year or two.

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660


> On Jan 25, 2021, at 7:40 PM, cenelson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>   Any thoughts about Kiwi grip?.
> 
> Relatively cheap, easily applied and tinted by DIYers and it holds up well.
> 
> 
> Sent from the all new Aol app for iOS
> 
> On Monday, January 25, 2021, 7:31 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I bought the same stuff off Amazon a few years ago that George referenced 
> above. It was such a nice change and from a grip, comfort, and cooling 
> standpoint. I will say that the grey layer on top is thin and became unbonded 
> to the black substrate below, eventually falling off completely. This may 
> have been from sun/rain exposure over the two years. The black substrate 
> makes up the bulk of the thickness and is the EVA foam I believe. While it is 
> still comfortable and slip resistant, the aesthetics are not ideal. I rubbed 
> off what grey was left  and now the aesthetic is a uniform black. 
> I have considered re-applying with a solid color grey or similar and not the 
> faux weathered teak. I can not justify at this time the Raptor Deck expense, 
> but would say that it is a superior product. 
> I do think this budget material would work great down below and would have 
> many benefits. The only caveat being that dust and grit obviously will seek 
> the low point in the profile and so you will probably need a dustbuster handy 
> in lieu of the standard dust pan. 
> KD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 1:37 PM George Cone via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Bruno,
> 
>  
> 
> I offer this as a thought, I purchased some of this material as a test, 
> planning to remove it and buy the real expensive stuff,  because I was 
> concerned how it would hold up under the stress of my dog. An active 
> retriever. I was amazed how good it has worked and in-fact bought some more 
> to finish the job.
> 
>  
> 
> Take a look on amazon -- CHURERSHINING EVA Teak Decking Sheet for Boat Yacht 
> Marine Floor Carpet Non-Slip and Self-Adhesive Bevel Edge 94.5"x35.4"
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> George Cone
> 
> C&C 40
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> From: Bruno Lachance via CnC-List  
> Sent: Monday, January 25, 2021 4:26 PM
> To: 'Stus-List' 
> Cc: Bruno Lachance 
> Subject: Stus-List Seadeck / Raptor deck eva foam for cockpit
> 
>  
> 
> Hi,
> 
>  
> 
> The cockpit antiskip is long overdue on our 1987 33-2 and even with really 
> good deck shoes it is now just unsafe. Our plan is to cover the cockpit sole, 
> benches and bridgedeck with 5 mm light grey. The templates are made and both 
> companies (Seadeck and Raptor) do custom work. You send theme the templates 
> and they send you a quote. But before i send them my precious templates,  I 
> would like to have a ballpark estimate, anybody on the list that have done 
> the same and could give me a rough estimate. It could be from a C&C 29 to a 
> let's say 37.
> 
>  
> 
> I have sailed on boats where the cockpit sole was covered with Raptor deck as 
> antiskid. I loved the feel of it and the grip is really good and more comfy. 
> I would prefer this to paint.
> 
>  
> 
> I know i could also buy a sheet of the same stuff and cut it myself, but i 
> want it to look professional if the price is not outrageous.
> 
>  
> 
> Thank you!
> 
>  
> 
> Bruno Lachance
> 
> Bécassin, C&C 33-2
> 
> New-Richmond, Qc
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Seadeck / Raptor deck eva foam for cockpit

[cenelson via CnC-List]

 Any thoughts about Kiwi grip?.
Relatively cheap, easily applied and tinted by DIYers and it holds up well.


Sent from the all new Aol app for iOS


On Monday, January 25, 2021, 7:31 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
 wrote:

I bought the same stuff off Amazon a few years ago that George referenced 
above. It was such a nice change and from a grip, comfort, and cooling 
standpoint. I will say that the grey layer on top is thin and became unbonded 
to the black substrate below, eventually falling off completely. This may have 
been from sun/rain exposure over the two years. The black substrate makes up 
the bulk of the thickness and is the EVA foam I believe. While it is still 
comfortable and slip resistant, the aesthetics are not ideal. I rubbed off what 
grey was left  and now the aesthetic is a uniform black. I have considered 
re-applying with a solid color grey or similar and not the faux weathered teak. 
I can not justify at this time the Raptor Deck expense, but would say that it 
is a superior product. I do think this budget material would work great down 
below and would have many benefits. The only caveat being that dust and grit 
obviously will seek the low point in the profile and so you will probably need 
a dustbuster handy in lieu of the standard dust pan. KD




On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 1:37 PM George Cone via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Bruno, 

 

I offer this as a thought, I purchased some of this material as a test, 
planning to remove it and buy the real expensive stuff,  because I was 
concerned how it would hold up under the stress of my dog. An active retriever. 
I was amazed how good it has worked and in-fact bought some more to finish the 
job.

 

Take a look on amazon --CHURERSHINING EVA Teak Decking Sheet for Boat Yacht 
Marine Floor Carpet Non-Slip and Self-Adhesive Bevel Edge 94.5"x35.4"

 

Thanks,

George Cone

C&C 40

 

 

From: Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2021 4:26 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Bruno Lachance 
Subject: Stus-List Seadeck / Raptor deck eva foam for cockpit

 

Hi,

 

The cockpit antiskip is long overdue on our 1987 33-2 and even with really good 
deck shoes it is now just unsafe. Our plan is to cover the cockpit sole, 
benches and bridgedeck with 5 mm light grey. The templates are made and both 
companies (Seadeck and Raptor) do custom work. You send theme the templates and 
they send you a quote. But before i send them my precious templates,  I would 
like to have a ballpark estimate, anybody on the list that have done the same 
and could give me a rough estimate. It could be from a C&C 29 to a let's say 37.

 

I have sailed on boats where the cockpit sole was covered with Raptor deck as 
antiskid. I loved the feel of it and the grip is really good and more comfy. I 
would prefer this to paint.

 

I know i could also buy a sheet of the same stuff and cut it myself, but i want 
it to look professional if the price is not outrageous.

 

Thank you!

 

Bruno Lachance

Bécassin, C&C 33-2

New-Richmond, Qc
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Seadeck / Raptor deck eva foam for cockpit

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

I guess that there is different grades of quality, but I see some seller market 
there product as Seadeack foam, often those are smaller sheets, maybe 
leftovers? Anyways maybe I could split the cost and do the benches myself. The 
shape is simple to cut, but I would need to buy a router for the edges.

We are looking at the light grey 5 mm single layer, no pattern, simple and 
easier to clean.

Still, if I could get an estimate from a lister that as done business with 
Seadeck or Raptor that would give me confidence to send my patterns.

The only product I have seen was from Raptor and was awesome so I tried to 
contact them by email first, but no reply so far after a week. not very 
promising...

Bruno Lachance
Bécassin, C&C 33-2
New-Richmond, Qc

Envoyé de mon iPad

Le 25 janv. 2021 à 18:54, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit :

I bought the same stuff off Amazon a few years ago that George referenced 
above. It was such a nice change and from a grip, comfort, and cooling 
standpoint. I will say that the grey layer on top is thin and became unbonded 
to the black substrate below, eventually falling off completely. This may have 
been from sun/rain exposure over the two years. The black substrate makes up 
the bulk of the thickness and is the EVA foam I believe. While it is still 
comfortable and slip resistant, the aesthetics are not ideal. I rubbed off what 
grey was left  and now the aesthetic is a uniform black.
I have considered re-applying with a solid color grey or similar and not the 
faux weathered teak. I can not justify at this time the Raptor Deck expense, 
but would say that it is a superior product.
I do think this budget material would work great down below and would have many 
benefits. The only caveat being that dust and grit obviously will seek the low 
point in the profile and so you will probably need a dustbuster handy in lieu 
of the standard dust pan.
KD




On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 1:37 PM George Cone via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Bruno,

I offer this as a thought, I purchased some of this material as a test, 
planning to remove it and buy the real expensive stuff,  because I was 
concerned how it would hold up under the stress of my dog. An active retriever. 
I was amazed how good it has worked and in-fact bought some more to finish the 
job.

Take a look on amazon -- CHURERSHINING EVA Teak Decking Sheet for Boat Yacht 
Marine Floor Carpet Non-Slip and Self-Adhesive Bevel Edge 
94.5"x35.4"

Thanks,
George Cone
C&C 40


From: Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2021 4:26 PM
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Bruno Lachance 
mailto:bruno_lacha...@hotmail.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Seadeck / Raptor deck eva foam for cockpit

Hi,

The cockpit antiskip is long overdue on our 1987 33-2 and even with really good 
deck shoes it is now just unsafe. Our plan is to cover the cockpit sole, 
benches and bridgedeck with 5 mm light grey. The templates are made and both 
companies (Seadeck and Raptor) do custom work. You send theme the templates and 
they send you a quote. But before i send them my precious templates,  I would 
like to have a ballpark estimate, anybody on the list that have done the same 
and could give me a rough estimate. It could be from a C&C 29 to a let's say 37.

I have sailed on boats where the cockpit sole was covered with Raptor deck as 
antiskid. I loved the feel of it and the grip is really good and more comfy. I 
would prefer this to paint.

I know i could also buy a sheet of the same stuff and cut it myself, but i want 
it to look professional if the price is not outrageous.

Thank you!

Bruno Lachance
Bécassin, C&C 33-2
New-Richmond, Qc
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Teak Sole

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Unless your boat never leaves the slip, I would not personally do vinyl
plank flooring. I work in multifamily development (apartment buildings) and
we have miles of vinyl plank installed in our projects. While it is a great
product, I think it would not provide great footing at any kind or heel and
it would be difficult to finish the edges precisely and aesthetically. It
also 'moves' quite a bit, i.e. expands and contracts so that when it is
installed one has to leave 1/4"-1/2" gap at any fixed element, like a wall
or cabinets, which is covered by the wall base trim. This allows for the
vinyl to expand and not push up when constrained.  It is also heavy, even
for our not lightweight boats.




On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 1:29 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I wonder what vinyl plank flooring would look like.
>
> On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 5:10 PM Adam Hayden via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> John
>>
>> We are looking at doing the same.  Our sole is pretty worn as well.  That
>> same plywood here is about double in price.  I think a number of the group
>> here have done this already.
>>
>>
>> Would love to see your before and after pictures as we have a 36 as well.
>> Adam
>> Pictou NS
>>
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C 35 Mk 1

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I have just 1 automatic bilge pump plus the manual gusher 10. The auto pump
has float switch plus a manual switch at the switch panel. The float switch
goes straight to the battery with fuse a few inches from + terminal. Exit
for the gusher is out the stern. Exit for the auto on port side between toe
rail a cove stripe. No one way valve.  Neither will pump to dry bilge. No
limber holes in floors. Works good for me

On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 7:04 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Not sure how the mk1 bilge compares, but my mk2 has two auto bilge pumps
> in addition to the manual. Last winter I re worked everything as follows:
>
> 1. Manual whale gusher below engine panel in cockpit, hose led to just
> aft of aft-most keel stud.
> 2. Rule 500gph pump between keel stud #2 & 3 (from stern), activated by
> Johnson Controls magnetic switch between stud #1 & 2
> 3. Rule 2500gph pump with float switch between keel stud #3 & 4
> 4. In an emergency the engine raw water intake can be quickly switched to
> pull from the bilge, although the pump is only rated at 360gph, so it's
> probably not going to help a sinking ship much...
>
> Both auto pumps are wired direct to battery busbar (fused), with manual
> override switches on panel, and each has a check valve installed to prevent
> the significant water in the hose from draining back to the bilge (these
> can be a problem, either sticking open or closed if not kept clean). I have
> a T and and plug in the water tank line so it can be emptied to the bilge,
> which makes for a good way to check the pump operation and flush everything
> with fresh water. The small pump uses 3/4" hose, the larger is 1 1/4" hose,
> both exiting on the transom. I plan to move them to the stern counter some
> day to get a cleaner looking transom.
>
> Maybe overkill, but it was set up this way by a PO, and I've just tidied
> it up a bit and I check them regularly with the manual switches, and with
> the floats whenever I'm in the bilge.
>
>
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>
>
> On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 1:27 PM Glen Eddie via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello everyone,
>>
>>
>>
>> I have a C&C 35 Mk I.  As many know, it didn’t come with an automatic
>> bilge pump (just a manual whale gusher).  I want to install an automatic
>> bilge pump this off season and would like to hear suggestions.  I think the
>> hose should go into the bilge well below the mast step but I am wondering
>> to what people affixed the switch.
>>
>>
>>
>> As always, thanks in advance.
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> *Glen Eddie*
>>
>> Tel:  416-777-5357
>>
>> Fax:  1-888-812-2557
>>
>> ged...@torkinmanes.com
>>
>> VCard 
>>
>> *Torkin Manes LLP*
>> Barristers & Solicitors
>>
>> 151 Yonge Street, Suite 1500
>> 
>> Toronto ON M5C 2W7
>> 
>>
>> torkinmanes.com 
>>
>>
>> *Named Canada's Regional Law Firm of the Year by Chambers and Partners
>> Ranked the #1 Ontario Regional Law Firm by Canadian Lawyer*
>>
>> An international member of Ally Law 
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>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   h

Stus-List Re: Seadeck / Raptor deck eva foam for cockpit

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

I bought the same stuff off Amazon a few years ago that George referenced
above. It was such a nice change and from a grip, comfort, and cooling
standpoint. I will say that the grey layer on top is thin and became
unbonded to the black substrate below, eventually falling off completely.
This may have been from sun/rain exposure over the two years. The black
substrate makes up the bulk of the thickness and is the EVA foam I believe.
While it is still comfortable and slip resistant, the aesthetics are not
ideal. I rubbed off what grey was left  and now the aesthetic is a uniform
black.
I have considered re-applying with a solid color grey or similar and not
the faux weathered teak. I can not justify at this time the Raptor Deck
expense, but would say that it is a superior product.
I do think this budget material would work great down below and would have
many benefits. The only caveat being that dust and grit obviously will seek
the low point in the profile and so you will probably need a dustbuster
handy in lieu of the standard dust pan.
KD




On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 1:37 PM George Cone via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Bruno,
>
>
>
> I offer this as a thought, I purchased some of this material as a test,
> planning to remove it and buy the real expensive stuff,  because I was
> concerned how it would hold up under the stress of my dog. An active
> retriever. I was amazed how good it has worked and in-fact bought some more
> to finish the job.
>
>
> Take a look on amazon -- CHURERSHINING EVA Teak Decking Sheet for Boat
> Yacht Marine Floor Carpet Non-Slip and Self-Adhesive Bevel Edge 94.5"x35.4"
> 
>   Thanks, George Cone C&C 40
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, January 25, 2021 4:26 PM
> *To:* 'Stus-List' 
> *Cc:* Bruno Lachance 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Seadeck / Raptor deck eva foam for cockpit
>
>
>
> Hi,
>
>
>
> The cockpit antiskip is long overdue on our 1987 33-2 and even with really
> good deck shoes it is now just unsafe. Our plan is to cover the cockpit
> sole, benches and bridgedeck with 5 mm light grey. The templates are made
> and both companies (Seadeck and Raptor) do custom work. You send theme the
> templates and they send you a quote. But before i send them my precious
> templates,  I would like to have a ballpark estimate, anybody on the list
> that have done the same and could give me a rough estimate. It could be
> from a C&C 29 to a let's say 37.
>
>
>
> I have sailed on boats where the cockpit sole was covered with Raptor deck
> as antiskid. I loved the feel of it and the grip is really good and more
> comfy. I would prefer this to paint.
>
>
>
> I know i could also buy a sheet of the same stuff and cut it myself, but i
> want it to look professional if the price is not outrageous.
>
>
>
> Thank you!
>
>
>
> Bruno Lachance
>
> Bécassin, C&C 33-2
>
> New-Richmond, Qc
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C 35 Mk 1

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

Not sure how the mk1 bilge compares, but my mk2 has two auto bilge pumps in
addition to the manual. Last winter I re worked everything as follows:

1. Manual whale gusher below engine panel in cockpit, hose led to just
aft of aft-most keel stud.
2. Rule 500gph pump between keel stud #2 & 3 (from stern), activated by
Johnson Controls magnetic switch between stud #1 & 2
3. Rule 2500gph pump with float switch between keel stud #3 & 4
4. In an emergency the engine raw water intake can be quickly switched to
pull from the bilge, although the pump is only rated at 360gph, so it's
probably not going to help a sinking ship much...

Both auto pumps are wired direct to battery busbar (fused), with manual
override switches on panel, and each has a check valve installed to prevent
the significant water in the hose from draining back to the bilge (these
can be a problem, either sticking open or closed if not kept clean). I have
a T and and plug in the water tank line so it can be emptied to the bilge,
which makes for a good way to check the pump operation and flush everything
with fresh water. The small pump uses 3/4" hose, the larger is 1 1/4" hose,
both exiting on the transom. I plan to move them to the stern counter some
day to get a cleaner looking transom.

Maybe overkill, but it was set up this way by a PO, and I've just tidied
it up a bit and I check them regularly with the manual switches, and with
the floats whenever I'm in the bilge.



--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 1:27 PM Glen Eddie via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello everyone,
>
>
>
> I have a C&C 35 Mk I.  As many know, it didn’t come with an automatic
> bilge pump (just a manual whale gusher).  I want to install an automatic
> bilge pump this off season and would like to hear suggestions.  I think the
> hose should go into the bilge well below the mast step but I am wondering
> to what people affixed the switch.
>
>
>
> As always, thanks in advance.
>
>
> --
>
> *Glen Eddie*
>
> Tel:  416-777-5357
>
> Fax:  1-888-812-2557
>
> ged...@torkinmanes.com
>
> VCard 
>
> *Torkin Manes LLP*
> Barristers & Solicitors
>
> 151 Yonge Street, Suite 1500
> Toronto ON M5C 2W7
> torkinmanes.com 
>
>
> *Named Canada's Regional Law Firm of the Year by Chambers and Partners
> Ranked the #1 Ontario Regional Law Firm by Canadian Lawyer*
>
> An international member of Ally Law 
>
> This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named
> recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential
> and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received
> this message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email
> message. Thank you.
>
>
> *Disclaimer*
>
> The information contained in this communication from the sender is
> confidential. It is intended solely for use by the recipient and others
> authorized to receive it. If you are not the recipient, you are hereby
> notified that any disclosure, copying, distribution or taking action in
> relation of the contents of this information is strictly prohibited and may
> be unlawful.
>
> This email has been scanned for viruses and malware, and may have been
> automatically archived by *Mimecast Ltd*, an innovator in Software as a
> Service (SaaS) for business. Providing a *safer* and *more useful* place
> for your human generated data. Specializing in; Security, archiving and
> compliance. To find out more Click Here
> .
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Seadeck / Raptor deck eva foam for cockpit

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

I've thought about something like this for the interior of my 35.  Ought to 
last forever down below.

Bob

> On 01/25/2021 4:36 PM George Cone via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> 
> Bruno,
> 
>  
> 
> I offer this as a thought, I purchased some of this material as a test, 
> planning to remove it and buy the real expensive stuff,  because I was 
> concerned how it would hold up under the stress of my dog. An active 
> retriever. I was amazed how good it has worked and in-fact bought some more 
> to finish the job.
> 
>  
> 
> Take a look on amazon -- CHURERSHINING EVA Teak Decking Sheet for Boat 
> Yacht Marine Floor Carpet Non-Slip and Self-Adhesive Bevel Edge 94.5"x35.4" 
> https://www.amazon.com/CHURERSHINING-Decking-Marine-Flooring-Adhesive/dp/B07P62SWB4/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=boat+deck+covering&qid=1611610224&sr=8-2
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> George Cone
> 
> C&C 40
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> From: Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
> Sent: Monday, January 25, 2021 4:26 PM
> To: 'Stus-List' 
> Cc: Bruno Lachance 
> Subject: Stus-List Seadeck / Raptor deck eva foam for cockpit
> 
>  
> 
> Hi,
> 
>  
> 
> The cockpit antiskip is long overdue on our 1987 33-2 and even with 
> really good deck shoes it is now just unsafe. Our plan is to cover the 
> cockpit sole, benches and bridgedeck with 5 mm light grey. The templates are 
> made and both companies (Seadeck and Raptor) do custom work. You send theme 
> the templates and they send you a quote. But before i send them my precious 
> templates,  I would like to have a ballpark estimate, anybody on the list 
> that have done the same and could give me a rough estimate. It could be from 
> a C&C 29 to a let's say 37.
> 
>  
> 
> I have sailed on boats where the cockpit sole was covered with Raptor 
> deck as antiskid. I loved the feel of it and the grip is really good and more 
> comfy. I would prefer this to paint.
> 
>  
> 
> I know i could also buy a sheet of the same stuff and cut it myself, but 
> i want it to look professional if the price is not outrageous.
> 
>  
> 
> Thank you!
> 
>  
> 
> Bruno Lachance
> 
> Bécassin, C&C 33-2
> 
> New-Richmond, Qc
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C&C 35 Mk 1

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

Hi Glen,

I installed an automatic pump in my boat a couple years ago.  I ran 1" (I 
think) black hose aft, under the engine, and out the stern.  I didn't put it in 
the deepest part of the bilge.  When it stops cycling there's always some water 
that flows back.

Bob Mann
Mystic
Detroit, MI

> On 01/25/2021 4:25 PM Glen Eddie via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
>  
> 
> I have a C&C 35 Mk I.  As many know, it didn’t come with an automatic 
> bilge pump (just a manual whale gusher).  I want to install an automatic 
> bilge pump this off season and would like to hear suggestions.  I think the 
> hose should go into the bilge well below the mast step but I am wondering to 
> what people affixed the switch. 
> 
>  
> 
> As always, thanks in advance.
> 
>  
> 
> 
> -
> 
> Glen Eddie
> 
> Tel:  416-777-5357
> 
> Fax:  1-888-812-2557
> 
> ged...@torkinmanes.com mailto:ged...@torkinmanes.com
> 
> VCard http://www.torkinmanes.com/vcard.aspx?ID=glen-eddie
> 
> Torkin Manes LLP
> Barristers & Solicitors
> 
> 151 Yonge Street, Suite 1500
> Toronto ON M5C 2W7 
> torkinmanes.com http://www.torkinmanes.com
> 
> Named Canada's Regional Law Firm of the Year by Chambers and Partners
> Ranked the #1 Ontario Regional Law Firm by Canadian Lawyer
> 
> An international member of Ally Law https://ally-law.com
> 
> This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named 
> recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential 
> and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received this 
> message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email message. 
> Thank you.
> 
> 
> 
> Disclaimer
> 
> The information contained in this communication from the sender is 
> confidential. It is intended solely for use by the recipient and others 
> authorized to receive it. If you are not the recipient, you are hereby 
> notified that any disclosure, copying, distribution or taking action in 
> relation of the contents of this information is strictly prohibited and may 
> be unlawful.
> 
> This email has been scanned for viruses and malware, and may have been 
> automatically archived by Mimecast Ltd, an innovator in Software as a Service 
> (SaaS) for business. Providing a safer and more useful place for your human 
> generated data. Specializing in; Security, archiving and compliance. To find 
> out more Click Here http://www.mimecast.com/products/ .
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Seadeck / Raptor deck eva foam for cockpit

[George Cone via CnC-List]

Bruno,

I offer this as a thought, I purchased some of this material as a test, 
planning to remove it and buy the real expensive stuff,  because I was 
concerned how it would hold up under the stress of my dog. An active retriever. 
I was amazed how good it has worked and in-fact bought some more to finish the 
job.

Take a look on amazon -- CHURERSHINING EVA Teak Decking Sheet for Boat Yacht 
Marine Floor Carpet Non-Slip and Self-Adhesive Bevel Edge 
94.5"x35.4"

Thanks,
George Cone
C&C 40


From: Bruno Lachance via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2021 4:26 PM
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Bruno Lachance 
Subject: Stus-List Seadeck / Raptor deck eva foam for cockpit

Hi,

The cockpit antiskip is long overdue on our 1987 33-2 and even with really good 
deck shoes it is now just unsafe. Our plan is to cover the cockpit sole, 
benches and bridgedeck with 5 mm light grey. The templates are made and both 
companies (Seadeck and Raptor) do custom work. You send theme the templates and 
they send you a quote. But before i send them my precious templates,  I would 
like to have a ballpark estimate, anybody on the list that have done the same 
and could give me a rough estimate. It could be from a C&C 29 to a let's say 37.

I have sailed on boats where the cockpit sole was covered with Raptor deck as 
antiskid. I loved the feel of it and the grip is really good and more comfy. I 
would prefer this to paint.

I know i could also buy a sheet of the same stuff and cut it myself, but i want 
it to look professional if the price is not outrageous.

Thank you!

Bruno Lachance
Bécassin, C&C 33-2
New-Richmond, Qc
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Teak Sole

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I wonder what vinyl plank flooring would look like.

On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 5:10 PM Adam Hayden via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> John
>
> We are looking at doing the same.  Our sole is pretty worn as well.  That
> same plywood here is about double in price.  I think a number of the group
> here have done this already.
>
>
> Would love to see your before and after pictures as we have a 36 as well.
> Adam
> Pictou NS
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Sent from Gmail Mobile
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List C&C 35 Mk 1

[Glen Eddie via CnC-List]

Hello everyone,

I have a C&C 35 Mk I.  As many know, it didn't come with an automatic bilge 
pump (just a manual whale gusher).  I want to install an automatic bilge pump 
this off season and would like to hear suggestions.  I think the hose should go 
into the bilge well below the mast step but I am wondering to what people 
affixed the switch.

As always, thanks in advance.


Glen Eddie

Tel:  416-777-5357

Fax:  1-888-812-2557

ged...@torkinmanes.com

VCard

Torkin Manes LLP
Barristers & Solicitors
151 Yonge Street, Suite 1500
Toronto ON M5C 2W7
torkinmanes.com
Named Canada's Regional Law Firm of the Year by Chambers and Partners
Ranked the #1 Ontario Regional Law Firm by Canadian Lawyer
An international member of Ally Law

This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named 
recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential 
and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received this 
message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email message. Thank 
you.

Disclaimer

The information contained in this communication from the sender is 
confidential. It is intended solely for use by the recipient and others 
authorized to receive it. If you are not the recipient, you are hereby notified 
that any disclosure, copying, distribution or taking action in relation of the 
contents of this information is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.

This email has been scanned for viruses and malware, and may have been 
automatically archived by Mimecast Ltd, an innovator in Software as a Service 
(SaaS) for business. Providing a safer and more useful place for your human 
generated data. Specializing in; Security, archiving and compliance. To find 
out more visit the Mimecast website.
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Seadeck / Raptor deck eva foam for cockpit

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Hi,

The cockpit antiskip is long overdue on our 1987 33-2 and even with really good 
deck shoes it is now just unsafe. Our plan is to cover the cockpit sole, 
benches and bridgedeck with 5 mm light grey. The templates are made and both 
companies (Seadeck and Raptor) do custom work. You send theme the templates and 
they send you a quote. But before i send them my precious templates,  I would 
like to have a ballpark estimate, anybody on the list that have done the same 
and could give me a rough estimate. It could be from a C&C 29 to a let's say 37.

I have sailed on boats where the cockpit sole was covered with Raptor deck as 
antiskid. I loved the feel of it and the grip is really good and more comfy. I 
would prefer this to paint.

I know i could also buy a sheet of the same stuff and cut it myself, but i want 
it to look professional if the price is not outrageous.

Thank you!

Bruno Lachance
Bécassin, C&C 33-2
New-Richmond, Qc
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Teak Sole

[Adam Hayden via CnC-List]

John

We are looking at doing the same.  Our sole is pretty worn as well.  That same 
plywood here is about double in price.  I think a number of the group here have 
done this already.


Would love to see your before and after pictures as we have a 36 as well.
Adam
Pictou NS


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Teak Sole

[John McCrea via CnC-List]

All,

 

We are going to replace our Teak and Holly sole in our 1979 36-1 this year.
It is pretty tired. I have the old style 5 panel system that screws into the
floor pan. First thought is just replace with the same ½ teak and holly
plywood. I need a sheet and a half and Boulter Plywood in MA will sell a
full for $285 and half for $175. Thought about the faux teak flooring but
worried if I glue that over the existing panels it will cause high spots
since it is not a continuous floor. Had anyone done this job and would be
interested to learn of any other idea’s.

 

Thanks

 

John McCrea

Talisman

36-1

Mystic, CT

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: mast climbing using a counter weight

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I just watched that one earlier this morning!
I am thinking of trying that trick with a couple plastic 55 Gallon Drums . . . 


Bill Coleman
Entrada, Erie, PA



-Original Message-
From: Jeff Nelson via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2021 10:27 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeff Nelson
Subject: Stus-List Re: mast climbing using a counter weight

Instead of going up, why not bring the mast to you

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CInYj5P4evA

Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C&C 30 0549

-- 
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Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: mast climbing using a counter weight

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

+1 on that

Marek


 Original message 
From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
Date: 2021-01-25 09:18 (GMT-05:00)
To: Stus-List 
Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" 
Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: mast climbing using a counter weight

There is an old joke around somewhere about someone attempting this and it 
involves several trips up and down as various things fall on the person.
I am not sure if I would want to have 150-200 pounds of whatever 50 feet over 
my head.

Joe
Coquina
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: mast climbing using a counter weight

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

OTOH I have had good results using an anchor windlass.

Joe
Coquina

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2021 10:04 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: mast climbing using a counter weight

Years ago, there were a couple of "boat workers" doing work aloft on a boat on 
my pier.  The boat was the first one on the pier so it was next to the bulkhead.

One guy got in the bosun chair and the other guy hauled him up with the halyard 
tied to the hitch on his pickup truck.

DO NOT DO THIS!

--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: mast climbing

[Adam Hayden via CnC-List]

I don't recommend this either.
 https://photos.app.goo.gl/6W4yvZJBcz3HrQtB9

Yes that's me on another boat.  We had to lift 2 boats and the guy that 
arranged the crane arranged for a 100 ton crane at about $800 an hour.  Lifting 
straps got stuck on his mast and they were frigging around too much.

The worst was when the guys below said hold on and adjusted the ladder.
 It's s**t like this why women live longer then men.

Adam
C&c 36
Pictou NS

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: mast climbing using a counter weight

[Jeff Nelson via CnC-List]

Instead of going up, why not bring the mast to you

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CInYj5P4evA

Cheers,
  Jeff Nelson
  Muir Caileag
  C&C 30 0549

--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: mast climbing using a counter weight

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Years ago, there were a couple of "boat workers" doing work aloft on a boat
on my pier.  The boat was the first one on the pier so it was next to the
bulkhead.

One guy got in the bosun chair and the other guy hauled him up with the
halyard tied to the hitch on his pickup truck.

DO NOT DO THIS!

-- 
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Windstar 33-2 solar project update

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Thanks Don - the renogy panel is stiff-ish (similar to say 1/8” polycarbonate) 
and not heartbreakingly expensive. It is not bridged over any hard spots, only 
suspended on the trampoline of the Bimini.I had contemplated further 
stiffening but didn’t want to add weight, then have to support that.  We shall 
see how it works out!
Dave 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 25, 2021, at 8:32 AM, Don Marlin  wrote:
> 
> 
> Coroplast won't hold up. It doesn't survive UV and when hot gets very soft. 
> If you use a backing, best to use Polycarbonate sheet. 
> It is what they use for green house panels.
> 
> This is what I have done and it is working well. 
> I learned the hard way and destroyed one of my panels before that. 
> 
> Backing vs no backing is a dice roll. I have a friend who has no backing and 
> his panels are doing OK.
> In my situation I tried coroplast backing and that failed in the first 
> season. 
> 
> What I do know is flexible panels are VERY fragile and will tolerate zero 
> abuse. The faster they are bonded
> to something stiff, the less likely you have of cracking and destroying 
> cells. It does not take much abuse to 
> kill an entire panel.
> 
> As they say...YMMV
> 
> 
>> On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 6:44 AM Dave S via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> Joel 
>> Had thought (briefly) about heat mitigation, but like you I enjoy a 5 month 
>> season here in the Toronto area, and I doubt it's the same issue it might be 
>> in South Florida or elsewhere.  To Josh's point - the air is moving under 
>> the bimini.  I'm more concerned about the weight on the unsupported fabric 
>> over time.
>> 
>> Worthwhile?  Dunno yet.I haven't tested the setup, but really it depends 
>> on your objective.The 33ii has space constraints for both panels and 
>> batteries, and as a result my expectation is to extend the time between 
>> charging, not to eliminate charging.   We'll see.   In theory, If I were 
>> able to accommodate another 50w of reliable generation, windstar could be 
>> 100% off the grid.  
>> 
>>  Cost of the panel and controller is around C$500+ (you can verify on 
>> Renogy.ca.)  Battery choices are another  consideration, and can get spendy 
>> quickly.. I bought two lithium group 35s totalling 220ah. if you click 
>> around on that blog you'll see further documentation and all the associated 
>> arithmetic and (excessive...lol) reasoning.  This area is new to me, I had a 
>> lot of input from experienced folks on the list and much is shared there. 
>> This includes an inventory of the power consumption by item on Windstar 
>> which may save you (or your wife) some time.  
>> 
>> Dave 33-2
>> 
>>> On Mon, 25 Jan 2021 at 00:54, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Joel,
>>> 
>>> When the panels heat up they become less and less efficient.  That's the 
>>> reason for controlling their heat if possible.  If mounting on a fabric 
>>> such as a Bimini I can't imagine that adding a coroplast backing would 
>>> change the temperature very much since the fabric is already pretty thin.  
>>> On the other hand if you were planning on mounting the panels to a hard 
>>> surface then yes I believe there would be reason enough to add the backing. 
>>>  On my hard dodger installation I use adhesive felt pads.  Now I wish I had 
>>> though about coroplast.  That's a great idea.
>>> 
>>> Josh Muckley 
>>> S/V Sea Hawk 
>>> 1989 C&C 37+
>>> Solomons, MD
>>> 
 On Sun, Jan 24, 2021, 16:56 Joel Delamirande via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 I’ve seen on YouTube not over heat your panels
 They put a corrugated plastic panel underneath the solar panels
 It let airflow
 Let me know if it worth it and total cost for that project 
 My wife just added that to my list
 
> On Sun, Jan 24, 2021 at 4:49 PM Dave S via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Installing a 175w solar panel on the bimini.
> 
> https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2021/01/bimini-mods-for-solar-panel.html
> 
> Dave
> Windstar 33-2
> 
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - 
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  
> Thanks - Stu
 -- 
 Joel Delamirande
 
 www.jdroofing.ca
 
 Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
 the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
 PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
 Stu
>>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - 
>>> Stu
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
>> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use 
>> PayPal to s

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: mast climbing using a counter weight

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

There is an old joke around somewhere about someone attempting this and it 
involves several trips up and down as various things fall on the person.
I am not sure if I would want to have 150-200 pounds of whatever 50 feet over 
my head.

Joe
Coquina
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: mast climbing using a counter weight

[Matthew via CnC-List]

I also use an ATN, and have for years now.  It works well.  One issue I 
encountered is that I have a painted mast, and the ATN “ascenders” (or whatever 
you call them) are made of aluminum or some other metal.  As a result, I was 
scratching through paint near the top of the mast where it rubs.  To address 
this, I duct taped a piece of foam around the metal ascender piece.  No more 
scratches. 

 

From: David Knecht via CnC-List  
Sent: Sunday, January 24, 2021 3:54 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Stus-List Re: mast climbing using a counter weight

 

For going up the mast solo, I was able to find a used ATN Topclimber on eBay 
for a reasonable cost.  I have been up the mast 3-4 times now, so it has paid 
for itself.  I was not confident putting something together from parts and ATN 
got good reviews from users (and now me).  Dave





On Jan 24, 2021, at 3:20 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Agree, hoisting the 190# of chain or similar weight would take the same effort, 
but you'd only have to hoist it once and then have the freedom to could go up 
and down and anywhere in between without much effort and not have to bother 
crew.   My 190# weight could be balanced by four 5 gallon jugs of water or 
gasoline of diesel, so it's doable with items on hand, but the amount of prep 
is a little complicated.  I'll try and think through all the hurdles and 
describe what I think might work in a future email.

  

  

  

Chuck S 

  

  

On 01/24/2021 8:32 AM Adam Hayden via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: 

  

  

Chuck 

Wouldn't it take as much effort to hoist the bag of chain up as to hoist  a 
person up?I would do the same and use a corded drill alongside.  

Adam 

Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network. 

- Stu 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

 

David Knecht

S/V Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT




 

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Windstar 33-2 solar project update

[Joel Delamirande via CnC-List]

Thks Dave
I went to the boat show I got a name a guy in Toronto that we can consult
for solar project
On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 6:44 AM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Joel
> Had thought (briefly) about heat mitigation, but like you I enjoy a 5
> month season here in the Toronto area, and I doubt it's the same issue it
> might be in South Florida or elsewhere.  To Josh's point - the air is
> moving under the bimini.  I'm more concerned about the weight on the
> unsupported fabric over time.
>
> Worthwhile?  Dunno yet.I haven't tested the setup, but really it
> depends on your objective.The 33ii has space constraints for both
> panels and batteries, and as a result my expectation is to extend the time
> between charging, not to eliminate charging.   We'll see.   In theory, If I
> were able to accommodate another 50w of reliable generation, windstar could
> be 100% off the grid.
>
>  Cost of the panel and controller is around C$500+ (you can verify on
> Renogy.ca.)  Battery choices are another  consideration, and can get spendy
> quickly.. I bought two lithium group 35s totalling 220ah. if you click
> around on that blog you'll see further documentation and all the associated
> arithmetic and (excessive...lol) reasoning.  This area is new to me, I had
> a lot of input from experienced folks on the list and much is shared there.
> This includes an inventory of the power consumption by item on Windstar
> which may save you (or your wife) some time.
>
> Dave 33-2
>
> On Mon, 25 Jan 2021 at 00:54, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Joel,
>>
>> When the panels heat up they become less and less efficient.  That's the
>> reason for controlling their heat if possible.  If mounting on a fabric
>> such as a Bimini I can't imagine that adding a coroplast backing would
>> change the temperature very much since the fabric is already pretty thin.
>> On the other hand if you were planning on mounting the panels to a hard
>> surface then yes I believe there would be reason enough to add the
>> backing.  On my hard dodger installation I use adhesive felt pads.  Now I
>> wish I had though about coroplast.  That's a great idea.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>> On Sun, Jan 24, 2021, 16:56 Joel Delamirande via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I’ve seen on YouTube not over heat your panels
>>> They put a corrugated plastic panel underneath the solar panels
>>> It let airflow
>>> Let me know if it worth it and total cost for that project
>>> My wife just added that to my list
>>>
>>> On Sun, Jan 24, 2021 at 4:49 PM Dave S via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Installing a 175w solar panel on the bimini.


 https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2021/01/bimini-mods-for-solar-panel.html

 Dave
 Windstar 33-2


 Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
 with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
 use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 Thanks - Stu
>>>
>>> --
>>> Joel Delamirande
>>> *www.jdroofing.ca *
>>>
>>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> Thanks - Stu
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu

-- 
Joel Delamirande
*www.jdroofing.ca *
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Windstar 33-2 solar project update

[Don Marlin via CnC-List]

Coroplast won't hold up. It doesn't survive UV and when hot gets very soft.
If you use a backing, best to use Polycarbonate sheet.
It is what they use for green house panels.

This is what I have done and it is working well.
I learned the hard way and destroyed one of my panels before that.

Backing vs no backing is a dice roll. I have a friend who has no backing
and his panels are doing OK.
In my situation I tried coroplast backing and that failed in the first
season.

What I do know is flexible panels are VERY fragile and will tolerate zero
abuse. The faster they are bonded
to something stiff, the less likely you have of cracking and destroying
cells. It does not take much abuse to
kill an entire panel.

As they say...YMMV


On Mon, Jan 25, 2021 at 6:44 AM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Joel
> Had thought (briefly) about heat mitigation, but like you I enjoy a 5
> month season here in the Toronto area, and I doubt it's the same issue it
> might be in South Florida or elsewhere.  To Josh's point - the air is
> moving under the bimini.  I'm more concerned about the weight on the
> unsupported fabric over time.
>
> Worthwhile?  Dunno yet.I haven't tested the setup, but really it
> depends on your objective.The 33ii has space constraints for both
> panels and batteries, and as a result my expectation is to extend the time
> between charging, not to eliminate charging.   We'll see.   In theory, If I
> were able to accommodate another 50w of reliable generation, windstar could
> be 100% off the grid.
>
>  Cost of the panel and controller is around C$500+ (you can verify on
> Renogy.ca.)  Battery choices are another  consideration, and can get spendy
> quickly.. I bought two lithium group 35s totalling 220ah. if you click
> around on that blog you'll see further documentation and all the associated
> arithmetic and (excessive...lol) reasoning.  This area is new to me, I had
> a lot of input from experienced folks on the list and much is shared there.
> This includes an inventory of the power consumption by item on Windstar
> which may save you (or your wife) some time.
>
> Dave 33-2
>
> On Mon, 25 Jan 2021 at 00:54, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Joel,
>>
>> When the panels heat up they become less and less efficient.  That's the
>> reason for controlling their heat if possible.  If mounting on a fabric
>> such as a Bimini I can't imagine that adding a coroplast backing would
>> change the temperature very much since the fabric is already pretty thin.
>> On the other hand if you were planning on mounting the panels to a hard
>> surface then yes I believe there would be reason enough to add the
>> backing.  On my hard dodger installation I use adhesive felt pads.  Now I
>> wish I had though about coroplast.  That's a great idea.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C&C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>> On Sun, Jan 24, 2021, 16:56 Joel Delamirande via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I’ve seen on YouTube not over heat your panels
>>> They put a corrugated plastic panel underneath the solar panels
>>> It let airflow
>>> Let me know if it worth it and total cost for that project
>>> My wife just added that to my list
>>>
>>> On Sun, Jan 24, 2021 at 4:49 PM Dave S via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Installing a 175w solar panel on the bimini.


 https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2021/01/bimini-mods-for-solar-panel.html

 Dave
 Windstar 33-2


 Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
 with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
 use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 Thanks - Stu
>>>
>>> --
>>> Joel Delamirande
>>> *www.jdroofing.ca *
>>>
>>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> Thanks - Stu
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Winch bit

[George Cone via CnC-List]

I do have the bit that fits into my 28 volt Milwaukee. I have 2 batteries and 
it raises the main or large people up the mast with ease .  I get 4 or more 
raises out of a battery without recharges.

George Cone
C&C 40

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
Get Outlook for Android


From: Jeff Nelson via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2021 7:31:39 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Jeff Nelson 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Winch bit

I can't imagine a 12v cordless drill would have the torque.  I have 20v
dewalt cordless drill,
and even though it will drive a 6 inch hole through the side of my
house, I can't imagine ever
using for triming my headsail.  Milwaukee is industrial stuff, so you
pay for it.  I think the US
can get industrial Dewalt, but no one here carries that in Can that I
know of.

Cheers,
Jeff Nelson
Muir Caileag
C&C 30 549

On 2021-01-23 10:39 p.m., cenelson via CnC-List wrote:
> A rigger I know uses a cordless Milwaukee right angle drill to hoist
> his crew (or for them to hoist him.)
>
> This is a serious tool and uses at least a 20V battery—I doubt a 12V
> drill would work for any serious lift/grind.
>
> Back a few years ago it went for ~$400.
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 1995 C&C XL/kcb


--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Winch bit

[Jeff Nelson via CnC-List]

I can't imagine a 12v cordless drill would have the torque.  I have 20v 
dewalt cordless drill,
and even though it will drive a 6 inch hole through the side of my 
house, I can't imagine ever
using for triming my headsail.  Milwaukee is industrial stuff, so you 
pay for it.  I think the US
can get industrial Dewalt, but no one here carries that in Can that I 
know of.


Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C&C 30 549

On 2021-01-23 10:39 p.m., cenelson via CnC-List wrote:
A rigger I know uses a cordless Milwaukee right angle drill to hoist 
his crew (or for them to hoist him.)


This is a serious tool and uses at least a 20V battery—I doubt a 12V 
drill would work for any serious lift/grind.


Back a few years ago it went for ~$400.

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C&C XL/kcb



--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Windstar 33-2 solar project update

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Joel
Had thought (briefly) about heat mitigation, but like you I enjoy a 5 month
season here in the Toronto area, and I doubt it's the same issue it might
be in South Florida or elsewhere.  To Josh's point - the air is moving
under the bimini.  I'm more concerned about the weight on the
unsupported fabric over time.

Worthwhile?  Dunno yet.I haven't tested the setup, but really it
depends on your objective.The 33ii has space constraints for both
panels and batteries, and as a result my expectation is to extend the time
between charging, not to eliminate charging.   We'll see.   In theory, If I
were able to accommodate another 50w of reliable generation, windstar could
be 100% off the grid.

 Cost of the panel and controller is around C$500+ (you can verify on
Renogy.ca.)  Battery choices are another  consideration, and can get spendy
quickly.. I bought two lithium group 35s totalling 220ah. if you click
around on that blog you'll see further documentation and all the associated
arithmetic and (excessive...lol) reasoning.  This area is new to me, I had
a lot of input from experienced folks on the list and much is shared there.
This includes an inventory of the power consumption by item on Windstar
which may save you (or your wife) some time.

Dave 33-2

On Mon, 25 Jan 2021 at 00:54, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Joel,
>
> When the panels heat up they become less and less efficient.  That's the
> reason for controlling their heat if possible.  If mounting on a fabric
> such as a Bimini I can't imagine that adding a coroplast backing would
> change the temperature very much since the fabric is already pretty thin.
> On the other hand if you were planning on mounting the panels to a hard
> surface then yes I believe there would be reason enough to add the
> backing.  On my hard dodger installation I use adhesive felt pads.  Now I
> wish I had though about coroplast.  That's a great idea.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Sun, Jan 24, 2021, 16:56 Joel Delamirande via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I’ve seen on YouTube not over heat your panels
>> They put a corrugated plastic panel underneath the solar panels
>> It let airflow
>> Let me know if it worth it and total cost for that project
>> My wife just added that to my list
>>
>> On Sun, Jan 24, 2021 at 4:49 PM Dave S via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Installing a 175w solar panel on the bimini.
>>>
>>> https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2021/01/bimini-mods-for-solar-panel.html
>>>
>>> Dave
>>> Windstar 33-2
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> Thanks - Stu
>>
>> --
>> Joel Delamirande
>> *www.jdroofing.ca *
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu