Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Hey Charlie,

If it just has water stains, is there any way you could sand the damaged wood 
where it is and just recoat it with Watco Teak Oil?  It's worth a try.  I've 
cleaned stains off the teak cabinetry on my boat that way.  I use a cleaner 
like Pinesol first and then lightly sand with 120. then 220, and sand the whole 
panel or the area with 220 and rub on some Teak Oil.  Looks like new.   

Chuck S



> On 02/01/2021 8:31 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> Thanks all who have chimed in with thoughts on my 'ceiling' problem. 
>  
> I spoke with Rob at South Shore today and he recalled that C sourced 
> this material to a local shop who has since gone out of business.
>  
> My next, probably last hope, is Noah Boatworks in Ontario per one of the 
> listers. They do have teak battens which may work although I 'think' the 
> current stuff is a sheet of wood with grooves routed in it.
>  
> First, of course, I have to remove some of the good remaining ceiling to 
> determine how thick it is and, more importantly, what it is. It might be 
> teak, or teak faced plywood or just plywood stained to mimic teak. As with 
> most boat projects, they start with at least 1, usually 2 or more steps 
> backward before any forward progress is made--at least that is how it usually 
> works for me!
>  
> Now it would only warm up in coastal NC (highs lately barely get out of 
> the high 40s), I can begin the backward steps by probably investing in an 
> oscillating tool so I can remove some of the ceiling without destroying it 
> (1st step backward!). I may try a Dremel tool first--I have one of those 
> somewhere.
>  
> Then I can either make a similar piece myself (of course I would likely 
> need a router then!) or take the wood to a local shop and have it routed (2nd 
> step backward).
>  
> Thanks again for the listers who helped with the terminology. I will let 
> the list know what the solution turns out to be.
>  
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hey Charlie, if it is like the panels on my boat you should be able to 
get the plugs out reasonably easily, I drilled a small hole in the 
center and screwed a wood screw in, it popped the plugs out and I could 
remove the screws and thus the panel.  I'd go with that before resorting 
to a power tool...


You could replicate it with thin battens but you'd want some sort of 
tongue on them so there weren't visible gaps where the gelcoat above 
shows through.  And don't press the battens tight together in case they 
expand with humidity...


Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2021-02-01 9:31 p.m., Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:

Thanks all who have chimed in with thoughts on my 'ceiling' problem.

I spoke with Rob at South Shore today and he recalled that C sourced 
this material to a local shop who has since gone out of business.


My next, probably last hope, is Noah Boatworks in Ontario per one of 
the listers. They do have teak battens which may work although I 
'think' the current stuff is a sheet of wood with grooves routed in it.


First, of course, I have to remove some of the good remaining ceiling 
to determine how thick it is and, more importantly, what it is. It 
might be teak, or teak faced plywood or just plywood stained to mimic 
teak. As with most boat projects, they start with at least 1, usually 
2 or more steps backward before any forward progress is made--at least 
that is how it usually works for me!


Now it would only warm up in coastal NC (highs lately barely get out 
of the high 40s), I can begin the backward steps by probably investing 
in an oscillating tool so I can remove some of the ceiling without 
destroying it (1st step backward!). I may try a Dremel tool first--I 
have one of those somewhere.


Then I can either make a similar piece myself (of course I would 
likely need a router then!) or take the wood to a local shop and have 
it routed (2nd step backward).


Thanks again for the listers who helped with the terminology. I will 
let the list know what the solution turns out to be.


Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom






Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

Thanks all who have chimed in with thoughts on my 'ceiling' problem. 
I spoke with Rob at South Shore today and he recalled that C sourced this 
material to a local shop who has since gone out of business.
My next, probably last hope, is Noah Boatworks in Ontario per one of the 
listers. They do have teak battens which may work although I 'think' the 
current stuff is a sheet of wood with grooves routed in it.
First, of course, I have to remove some of the good remaining ceiling to 
determine how thick it is and, more importantly, what it is. It might be teak, 
or teak faced plywood or just plywood stained to mimic teak. As with most boat 
projects, they start with at least 1, usually 2 or more steps backward before 
any forward progress is made--at least that is how it usually works for me!
Now it would only warm up in coastal NC (highs lately barely get out of the 
high 40s), I can begin the backward steps by probably investing in an 
oscillating tool so I can remove some of the ceiling without destroying it (1st 
step backward!). I may try a Dremel tool first--I have one of those somewhere.
Then I can either make a similar piece myself (of course I would likely need a 
router then!) or take the wood to a local shop and have it routed (2nd step 
backward).
Thanks again for the listers who helped with the terminology. I will let the 
list know what the solution turns out to be.
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom




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{}#yiv3185193894 div.yiv3185193894WordSection1 {}Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Remove the Red Dot?

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

I see you're also in the PNW, so I would say the decision should be based
on how much cold weather sailing you do, and how much of that is motoring.
We do very little motoring, and are usually not too concerned about warming
the cabin when we are underway, so it doesn't make sense for us. The Wallas
is very efficient, both on electrical and fuel usage, so if it were me, I'd
remove the coolant heater (often called a bus heater). We have an Espar D2
forced air that we use once we are at anchor which works pretty well - we
were out for 5 days last week, and we are hoping to head out for a few days
this week.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Mon, Feb 1, 2021 at 2:30 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'd remove anything that doesn't work and remove it's piping too, so you
> don't have to worry about future leaks.  You made it redundant by adding
> the Wallas heater.
>
> Not sure I understand a Red Dot heater.  It uses the engine coolant to
> heat the cabin?  That's not very useful when you turn off the engine.  I
> rarely run my engine so I'd prefer another heat source like a Webasco
> diesel heater.
>
> Chuck S
>
> On 02/01/2021 1:54 PM Peter McMinn via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
>
> As I install our new Wallas heater, I’m thinking of removing the original
> Red Dot that was wire cut by the PO—may need a new fan. At one point, I
> think it leaked coolant into the settee cavity. Cleaned up the spill and
> tightened hoses after we got the boat. I realize this heater offers steady
> “free” cabin heat while the engine is running, but with the new heater
> properly ducted, not sure if reviving the Red Dot is worth the effort.
> Removing leakage points and making a little space is appealing.
>
> If you have coolant plumbed heater, do you use it?
>
> I’m assuming a coolant bypass is needed at the engine (Yanmar 3H 27). Tips
> & resources appreciated.
>
>
> Peter McMinn C 37, sv Sirius Poulsbo, WA (thru April) Thanks to all of
> the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs
> involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send
> contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Remove the Red Dot?

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I would have a hard time removing one of those heaters that was already in, the 
installation is most of the equation.

There is not much to them, a couple hoses, heat exchanger, and fan – you should 
be able to fix/replace that if it is the only problem.

As far as the hoses, for something that important, I would replace with heavy 
duty hydraulic type hoses with flare type fittings, then you can forget about 
them.  That is what goes to my hot water tank, I like not having to think about 
them. 

Something like 75 – 80 % of the fuel you burn in your engine is wasted in heat, 
might as well re-coup it in that cool NW.

 

 

Bill Coleman

Entrada, Erie, PA

 

 

 

From: Peter McMinn via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
Sent: Monday, February 01, 2021 1:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: petemcm...@gmail.com
Subject: Stus-List Remove the Red Dot?

 

As I install our new Wallas heater, I’m thinking of removing the original Red 
Dot that was wire cut by the PO—may need a new fan. At one point, I think it 
leaked coolant into the settee cavity. Cleaned up the spill and tightened hoses 
after we got the boat. I realize this heater offers steady “free” cabin heat 
while the engine is running, but with the new heater properly ducted, not sure 
if reviving the Red Dot is worth the effort. Removing leakage points and making 
a little space is appealing.

If you have coolant plumbed heater, do you use it? 

I’m assuming a coolant bypass is needed at the engine (Yanmar 3H 27). Tips & 
resources appreciated.

 


Peter McMinn


C 37, sv Sirius


Poulsbo, WA (thru April)

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'

[Graham Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Charlie

The 35-3 doesn't use this as the ceiling, but has on the sides a teak 
surfaced plywood, maybe 1/4" thick, with grooves formed in it to 
simulate it being strips of teak (a better version of the 1979s basement 
family room paneling).  If we are talking the same thing... I have no 
idea where one would find it, I've not seen it online.  Southshore may 
have an idea.


Alternatively, you could go with full teak ply.  Or paint it white and 
brighten up the space?


best,

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2021-02-01 10:07 a.m., cenelson via CnC-List wrote:

Thank you.

I was hoping that I might find a source for this material, perhaps 
from someone who is familiar with wooden boat construction.


More likely a boat builder, including C, made them in house which is 
likely what I will need to do.


Thanks again,

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C 36XL


Sent from the all new Aol app for iOS 



On Monday, February 1, 2021, 5:30 AM, Rod Stright 
 wrote:


Thanks Charlie,

The only boat I had with a wooden ceiling in it was a Frers 33. 
It had narrow strips with beveled edges held in by stainless steel
screws which allowed you to take them out and refinish if
required. I tried to attach/enclose a picture but the site doesn’t
seem to allow it to go through.

Rod

*From:*Charlie Nelson via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
*Sent:* January-31-21 11:25 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* cenel...@aol.com 
*Subject:* Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'

Thanks Rod--you obviously know your nautical terms, as do some
others on this list. Now a few more listers, including myself,
know what to call this 'planking'.

With that out of the way, back to draining the swamp!  To wit:
 some of this  'ceiling'  in my V berth on my 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
has been destroyed by a water leak at my forward port hull deck
joint leak--since repaired.

What I am trying to find is a source of the ceiling to match my
original, which looks to be either ~1/4" teak or plywood with
V-grooves routed in on a 1 7/8" centers. The grooves run
longitudinally and I need a piece about 12 inches high and 24
inches long with the grooves running along the 24" direction.  As
far as I can tell without cutting out a piece, this ceiling is
screwed into stringers (behind the 'ceiling') that appear to run
longitudinally at the top and bottom of the ceiling, which on my
boat runs under the V-berth cubby storage cabinets down to the
fiberglass beneath the V-berth cushion. The screws are covered by
bungs. I don't know if C manufactured this ceiling material in
house or had a source for it. I do think a lot of their boats had
this 'ceiling' on the inside of their hulls.

I would appreciate any leads on where I might find some of this
'ceiling' with the grooves already cut.

Alternatively, I may have to take a replacement piece of wood to a
local woodshed and have grooves routed in it or buy a router and
some appropriate wood and have at it myself.

Thanks in advance for any further help--as well as your
terminology lesson!

Charlie Nelson

1995 C 36 XL/kcb

Water Phantom

-Original Message-
From: Rod Stright via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Rod Stright mailto:strig...@eastlink.ca>>
Sent: Sun, Jan 31, 2021 9:30 pm
Subject: Stus-List FW: Re: Interior 'walls'

Hi fellow C 99 owners,

On the inside of the hull the covering applied is properly called
a ceiling. I am from a family of wooden boatbuilders and we don’t
like to use terminology associated with houses on boats but
ceiling is defined below from the Glossary of Nautical terms.

*/ceiling/*

Planking attached to the inside of the frame
s
or floor
s
of a wooden hull, usually to separate the cargo from the hull
planking itself. The ceiling has different names in different
places: limber boards
,
spirketting
,
quickwork
.
The lower part of the ceiling is, confusingly to a landsman, what
you are standing on at the bottom of the hold of a wooden ship

On pleasure boats example Image
https://www.pinterest.ca/pin/82612974387656165/


Tried to include some pictures but they wouldn’t go through on
this website.

*Rod Stright*

Stus-List Re: Remove the Red Dot?

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

I'd remove anything that doesn't work and remove it's piping too, so you don't 
have to worry about future leaks.  You made it redundant by adding the Wallas 
heater.

Not sure I understand a Red Dot heater.  It uses the engine coolant to heat the 
cabin?  That's not very useful when you turn off the engine.  I rarely run my 
engine so I'd prefer another heat source like a Webasco diesel heater.

Chuck S

> On 02/01/2021 1:54 PM Peter McMinn via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> 
> As I install our new Wallas heater, I’m thinking of removing the original 
> Red Dot that was wire cut by the PO—may need a new fan. At one point, I think 
> it leaked coolant into the settee cavity. Cleaned up the spill and tightened 
> hoses after we got the boat. I realize this heater offers steady “free” cabin 
> heat while the engine is running, but with the new heater properly ducted, 
> not sure if reviving the Red Dot is worth the effort. Removing leakage points 
> and making a little space is appealing.
> 
> If you have coolant plumbed heater, do you use it?
> 
> I’m assuming a coolant bypass is needed at the engine (Yanmar 3H 27). 
> Tips & resources appreciated.
> 
>  
> 
> 
> Peter McMinn
> 
> 
> C 37, sv Sirius
> 
> 
> Poulsbo, WA (thru April)
> 
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help 
> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
> 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Remove the Red Dot?

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

As I install our new Wallas heater, I’m thinking of removing the original Red 
Dot that was wire cut by the PO—may need a new fan. At one point, I think it 
leaked coolant into the settee cavity. Cleaned up the spill and tightened hoses 
after we got the boat. I realize this heater offers steady “free” cabin heat 
while the engine is running, but with the new heater properly ducted, not sure 
if reviving the Red Dot is worth the effort. Removing leakage points and making 
a little space is appealing.

If you have coolant plumbed heater, do you use it? 

I’m assuming a coolant bypass is needed at the engine (Yanmar 3H 27). Tips & 
resources appreciated.

## Peter McMinn

## C 37, sv Sirius

## Poulsbo, WA (thru April)
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Maybe Noah's here in Toronto.  They've been here since C was.

 http://www.noahsmarine.com/

Dave
33-2



On Mon, 1 Feb 2021 at 09:14, Rod Stright via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Maybe South Shore?
>
>
>
> *From:* cenelson via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* February-01-21 10:08 AM
> *To:* Rod Stright ; 'Stus-List' <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Cc:* cenelson 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'
>
>
>
> Thank you.
>
>
>
> I was hoping that I might find a source for this material, perhaps
> from someone who is familiar with wooden boat construction.
>
>
>
> More likely a boat builder, including C, made them in house which is
> likely what I will need to do.
>
>
>
> Thanks again,
>
>
>
> Charlie Nelson
>
> Water Phantom
>
> 1995 C 36XL
>
>
> Sent from the all new Aol app for iOS
> 
>
> On Monday, February 1, 2021, 5:30 AM, Rod Stright 
> wrote:
>
> Thanks Charlie,
>
>
>
> The only boat I had with a wooden ceiling in it was a Frers 33.  It had
> narrow strips with beveled edges held in by stainless steel screws which
> allowed you to take them out and refinish if required. I tried to
> attach/enclose a picture but the site doesn’t seem to allow it to go
> through.
>
>
>
> Rod
>
> *From:* Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* January-31-21 11:25 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* cenel...@aol.com
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'
>
>
>
> Thanks Rod--you obviously know your nautical terms, as do some others on
> this list. Now a few more listers, including myself, know what to call this
> 'planking'.
>
>
>
> With that out of the way, back to draining the swamp!  To wit:  some of
> this  'ceiling'  in my V berth on my 1995 C 36 XL/kcb has been destroyed
> by a water leak at my forward port hull deck joint leak--since repaired.
>
>
>
> What I am trying to find is a source of the ceiling to match my original,
> which looks to be either ~1/4" teak or plywood with V-grooves routed in on
> a 1 7/8" centers. The grooves run longitudinally and I need a piece about
> 12 inches high and 24 inches long with the grooves running along the 24"
> direction.  As far as I can tell without cutting out a piece, this ceiling
> is screwed into stringers (behind the 'ceiling') that appear to run
> longitudinally at the top and bottom of the ceiling, which on my boat runs
> under the V-berth cubby storage cabinets down to the fiberglass beneath the
> V-berth cushion. The screws are covered by bungs. I don't know if C
> manufactured this ceiling material in house or had a source for it. I do
> think a lot of their boats had this 'ceiling' on the inside of their hulls.
>
>
>
> I would appreciate any leads on where I might find some of this 'ceiling'
> with the grooves already cut.
>
>
>
> Alternatively, I may have to take a replacement piece of wood to a local
> woodshed and have grooves routed in it or buy a router and some appropriate
> wood and have at it myself.
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance for any further help--as well as your terminology lesson!
>
>
>
> Charlie Nelson
>
> 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
>
> Water Phantom
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Rod Stright via CnC-List 
> To: 'Stus-List' 
> Cc: Rod Stright 
> Sent: Sun, Jan 31, 2021 9:30 pm
> Subject: Stus-List FW: Re: Interior 'walls'
>
> Hi fellow C 99 owners,
>
> On the inside of the hull the covering applied is properly called a
> ceiling. I am from a family of wooden boatbuilders and we don’t like to use
> terminology associated with houses on boats but ceiling is defined below
> from the Glossary of Nautical terms.
>
> *ceiling*
>
> Planking attached to the inside of the frame
> s or floor
> s of a
> wooden hull, usually to separate the cargo from the hull planking itself.
> The ceiling has different names in different places: limber boards
> ,
> spirketting
> ,
> quickwork
> . The
> lower part of the ceiling is, confusingly to a landsman, what you are
> standing on at the bottom of the hold of a wooden ship
>
> On pleasure boats example Image
> https://www.pinterest.ca/pin/82612974387656165/
>
>
>
> Tried to include some pictures but they wouldn’t go through on this
> website.
>
>
>
> *Rod Stright*
>
> *C 99*
>
> *Halifax, NS*
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks -
> Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   

Stus-List Re: Why race? How did you learn?

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

In the Chesapeake, there is CHESSS, Chesapeake short handed sailing
society.  They run a number of single and double handed races, spin and
non-spin.  It was started by  a friend on West River who got fed up trying
to put together crew.  https://www.chbaysss.org/

I started racing in middle school, and again in college.  Then started
racing as a way to get to sail OPB when a boat was not in the budget.  I
still do Wednesday and Friday OPB for the challenge, the  social aspect and
as away to get me on the water during the week.
I started racing offshore because the thought of just a cruise to Bermuda
was foreign at the time (not any more) and non of my friends were
interested in just a 5-6 day cruise.  After my Covid shots I'll start
weekday racing again.

Joel

On Sat, Jan 30, 2021 at 12:53 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Why race?
>
> If you consider the benefits of racing; learning to sail better, getting a
> boat to perform at it's highest efficiency, learning how to trim sails
> properly, learning to use the tide and currents, learning a few racing
> rules and signal flags, learning how to develop and manage crew members,
> building a team, etc.   I enjoyed the challenge and personal growth that
> came with it and I'm grateful for all the people I met along the journey.
>
>
> Racing has a stigma about it that diehard cruisers avoid at all costs.
> Cost being the most important.  Risk of collision and risk of breakage is
> another.  Next is prep time.  Next is learning new skills associated with
> learning the start sequence, flag signals, racing rules, etc.
>
> I followed the cautious route learning to race my boat.  I crewed on some
> racing boats and learned the start sequence and how to get round the course
> and then had some experienced racers coach me aboard my boat on a couple
> races.  It made the greatest difference to have their experience and skills
> to make the races safe and I would encourage any yachtclub to foster that
> program of coaching cruisers in a few races.  I was lucky and found some
> really good guys to help me learn.  My mentors were soft spoken experts who
> were firm but never raised their voices, so all my pickup crew members had
> total respect for their wisdom and we prepped the bottom and I had good
> sails and we did very well.
>
> Why do others race?  How did you learn?
>
> Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R Pasadena Md
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu



-- 
Joel
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'

[cenelson via CnC-List]

That is an excellent suggestion. 
I will give them a call-Rob McLaughlin? was very helpful on past requests for 
metal parts. 
Plus they are based in Canada so they might know of local sources.
Charlie Nelson
Charlie

Thanks


Sent from the all new Aol app for iOS


On Monday, February 1, 2021, 9:13 AM, Rod Stright  wrote:

#yiv4457809377 #yiv4457809377 -- _filtered {} _filtered {}#yiv4457809377 
#yiv4457809377 p.yiv4457809377MsoNormal, #yiv4457809377 
li.yiv4457809377MsoNormal, #yiv4457809377 div.yiv4457809377MsoNormal 
{margin:0cm;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv4457809377 a:link, 
#yiv4457809377 span.yiv4457809377MsoHyperlink 
{color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv4457809377 
p.yiv4457809377yahoo-quoted-begin, #yiv4457809377 
li.yiv4457809377yahoo-quoted-begin, #yiv4457809377 
div.yiv4457809377yahoo-quoted-begin 
{margin-right:0cm;margin-left:0cm;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv4457809377
 p.yiv4457809377msonormal, #yiv4457809377 li.yiv4457809377msonormal, 
#yiv4457809377 div.yiv4457809377msonormal 
{margin-right:0cm;margin-left:0cm;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv4457809377
 span.yiv4457809377EmailStyle29 
{font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv4457809377 
.yiv4457809377MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv4457809377 
div.yiv4457809377WordSection1 {}#yiv4457809377 
Maybe South Shore?

  

From: cenelson via CnC-List  
Sent: February-01-21 10:08 AM
To: Rod Stright ; 'Stus-List' 
Cc: cenelson 
Subject: Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'

  

Thank you.

  

I was hoping that I might find a source for this material, perhaps from someone 
who is familiar with wooden boat construction. 

  

More likely a boat builder, including C, made them in house which is likely 
what I will need to do.

  

Thanks again,

  

Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

1995 C 36XL


Sent from the all new Aol app for iOS

On Monday, February 1, 2021, 5:30 AM, Rod Stright  wrote:


Thanks Charlie,

 

The only boat I had with a wooden ceiling in it was a Frers 33.  It had narrow 
strips with beveled edges held in by stainless steel screws which allowed you 
to take them out and refinish if required. I tried to attach/enclose a picture 
but the site doesn’t seem to allow it to go through.

 

Rod

From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List  
Sent: January-31-21 11:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'

 

Thanks Rod--you obviously know your nautical terms, as do some others on this 
list. Now a few more listers, including myself, know what to call this 
'planking'. 

 

With that out of the way, back to draining the swamp!  To wit:  some of this  
'ceiling'  in my V berth on my 1995 C 36 XL/kcb has been destroyed by a water 
leak at my forward port hull deck joint leak--since repaired.

 

What I am trying to find is a source of the ceiling to match my original, which 
looks to be either ~1/4" teak or plywood with V-grooves routed in on a 1 7/8" 
centers. The grooves run longitudinally and I need a piece about 12 inches high 
and 24 inches long with the grooves running along the 24" direction.  As far as 
I can tell without cutting out a piece, this ceiling is screwed into stringers 
(behind the 'ceiling') that appear to run longitudinally at the top and bottom 
of the ceiling, which on my boat runs under the V-berth cubby storage cabinets 
down to the fiberglass beneath the V-berth cushion. The screws are covered by 
bungs. I don't know if C manufactured this ceiling material in house or had a 
source for it. I do think a lot of their boats had this 'ceiling' on the inside 
of their hulls.

 

I would appreciate any leads on where I might find some of this 'ceiling' with 
the grooves already cut. 

 

Alternatively, I may have to take a replacement piece of wood to a local 
woodshed and have grooves routed in it or buy a router and some appropriate 
wood and have at it myself.

 

Thanks in advance for any further help--as well as your terminology lesson!

 

Charlie Nelson

1995 C 36 XL/kcb

Water Phantom

-Original Message-
From: Rod Stright via CnC-List 
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Rod Stright 
Sent: Sun, Jan 31, 2021 9:30 pm
Subject: Stus-List FW: Re: Interior 'walls'

Hi fellow C 99 owners,

On the inside of the hull the covering applied is properly called a ceiling. I 
am from a family of wooden boatbuilders and we don’t like to use terminology 
associated with houses on boats but ceiling is defined below from the Glossary 
of Nautical terms.

ceiling

Planking attached to the inside of the frames or floors of a wooden hull, 
usually to separate the cargo from the hull planking itself. The ceiling has 
different names in different places: limber boards, spirketting, quickwork. The 
lower part of the ceiling is, confusingly to a landsman, what you are standing 
on at the bottom of the hold of a wooden ship

On pleasure boats example Image https://www.pinterest.ca/pin/82612974387656165/

 

Tried to include 

Stus-List Re: masthead sheave thoughts?

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Isn’t that like buying a new car when you have a flat tire??
Joe
Coquina
-Original Message-
From: Adam Hayden via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
To: Stus-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net>>; 
Adam Hayden mailto:hayden.a...@hotmail.com>>
Sent: Sun, Jan 31, 2021 7:42 pm
Subject: Stus-List Re: masthead sheave thoughts?
I think that for me when it's time to replace the sheaves it will be time to 
replace the boat and let the next owner deal with it.

Adam Hayden
C 36
Pictou N S
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: masthead sheave thoughts?

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

 Expensive replacements are not a requirement: when I purchased my 37, the 
sheaves would not turn at all; I removed them (mast down, of course) and used 
very fine emery cloth on the sheaves and the axles; they still spin freely 
without friction after five years..; I have the old wire sheaves but switched 
to all rope halyards without issues;
Richard
 
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 596;

Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine 
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255 
 
-Original Message-
From: Adam Hayden via CnC-List 
To: Stus-List 
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER ; Adam Hayden 

Sent: Sun, Jan 31, 2021 7:42 pm
Subject: Stus-List Re: masthead sheave thoughts?

I think that for me when it's time to replace the sheaves it will be time to 
replace the boat and let the next owner deal with it.
Adam HaydenC 36Pictou N SThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to 
the list to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to 
the list - use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  
Thanks - StuThanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'

[Rod Stright via CnC-List]

Maybe South Shore?

 

From: cenelson via CnC-List  
Sent: February-01-21 10:08 AM
To: Rod Stright ; 'Stus-List' 
Cc: cenelson 
Subject: Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'

 

Thank you.

 

I was hoping that I might find a source for this material, perhaps from someone 
who is familiar with wooden boat construction. 

 

More likely a boat builder, including C, made them in house which is likely 
what I will need to do.

 

Thanks again,

 

Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

1995 C 36XL


Sent from the all new Aol app for iOS 
 

On Monday, February 1, 2021, 5:30 AM, Rod Stright mailto:strig...@eastlink.ca> > wrote:

Thanks Charlie,

 

The only boat I had with a wooden ceiling in it was a Frers 33.  It had narrow 
strips with beveled edges held in by stainless steel screws which allowed you 
to take them out and refinish if required. I tried to attach/enclose a picture 
but the site doesn’t seem to allow it to go through.

 

Rod

From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: January-31-21 11:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: cenel...@aol.com  
Subject: Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'

 

Thanks Rod--you obviously know your nautical terms, as do some others on this 
list. Now a few more listers, including myself, know what to call this 
'planking'. 

 

With that out of the way, back to draining the swamp!  To wit:  some of this  
'ceiling'  in my V berth on my 1995 C 36 XL/kcb has been destroyed by a water 
leak at my forward port hull deck joint leak--since repaired.

 

What I am trying to find is a source of the ceiling to match my original, which 
looks to be either ~1/4" teak or plywood with V-grooves routed in on a 1 7/8" 
centers. The grooves run longitudinally and I need a piece about 12 inches high 
and 24 inches long with the grooves running along the 24" direction.  As far as 
I can tell without cutting out a piece, this ceiling is screwed into stringers 
(behind the 'ceiling') that appear to run longitudinally at the top and bottom 
of the ceiling, which on my boat runs under the V-berth cubby storage cabinets 
down to the fiberglass beneath the V-berth cushion. The screws are covered by 
bungs. I don't know if C manufactured this ceiling material in house or had a 
source for it. I do think a lot of their boats had this 'ceiling' on the inside 
of their hulls.

 

I would appreciate any leads on where I might find some of this 'ceiling' with 
the grooves already cut. 

 

Alternatively, I may have to take a replacement piece of wood to a local 
woodshed and have grooves routed in it or buy a router and some appropriate 
wood and have at it myself.

 

Thanks in advance for any further help--as well as your terminology lesson!

 

Charlie Nelson

1995 C 36 XL/kcb

Water Phantom

-Original Message-
From: Rod Stright via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Rod Stright mailto:strig...@eastlink.ca> >
Sent: Sun, Jan 31, 2021 9:30 pm
Subject: Stus-List FW: Re: Interior 'walls'

Hi fellow C 99 owners,

On the inside of the hull the covering applied is properly called a ceiling. I 
am from a family of wooden boatbuilders and we don’t like to use terminology 
associated with houses on boats but ceiling is defined below from the Glossary 
of Nautical terms.

ceiling

Planking attached to the inside of the  
 frames or  
 floors of a 
wooden hull, usually to separate the cargo from the hull planking itself. The 
ceiling has different names in different places:  
 limber 
boards,   
spirketting,  
 quickwork. 
The lower part of the ceiling is, confusingly to a landsman, what you are 
standing on at the bottom of the hold of a wooden ship

On pleasure boats example Image https://www.pinterest.ca/pin/82612974387656165/

 

Tried to include some pictures but they wouldn’t go through on this website.

 

Rod Stright

C 99

Halifax, NS

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  
 Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'

[cenelson via CnC-List]

Thank you.
I was hoping that I might find a source for this material, perhaps from someone 
who is familiar with wooden boat construction. 
More likely a boat builder, including C, made them in house which is likely 
what I will need to do.
Thanks again,
Charlie NelsonWater Phantom1995 C 36XL


Sent from the all new Aol app for iOS


On Monday, February 1, 2021, 5:30 AM, Rod Stright  wrote:

#yiv0460639607 #yiv0460639607 -- _filtered {} _filtered {} _filtered 
{}#yiv0460639607 #yiv0460639607 p.yiv0460639607MsoNormal, #yiv0460639607 
li.yiv0460639607MsoNormal, #yiv0460639607 div.yiv0460639607MsoNormal 
{margin:0cm;font-size:11.0pt;font-family:sans-serif;}#yiv0460639607 a:link, 
#yiv0460639607 span.yiv0460639607MsoHyperlink 
{color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv0460639607 
span.yiv0460639607EmailStyle20 
{font-family:sans-serif;color:windowtext;}#yiv0460639607 
.yiv0460639607MsoChpDefault {font-size:10.0pt;} _filtered {}#yiv0460639607 
div.yiv0460639607WordSection1 {}#yiv0460639607 
Thanks Charlie,

  

The only boat I had with a wooden ceiling in it was a Frers 33.  It had narrow 
strips with beveled edges held in by stainless steel screws which allowed you 
to take them out and refinish if required. I tried to attach/enclose a picture 
but the site doesn’t seem to allow it to go through.

  

Rod

From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List  
Sent: January-31-21 11:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'

  

Thanks Rod--you obviously know your nautical terms, as do some others on this 
list. Now a few more listers, including myself, know what to call this 
'planking'. 

  

With that out of the way, back to draining the swamp!  To wit:  some of this  
'ceiling'  in my V berth on my 1995 C 36 XL/kcb has been destroyed by a water 
leak at my forward port hull deck joint leak--since repaired.

  

What I am trying to find is a source of the ceiling to match my original, which 
looks to be either ~1/4" teak or plywood with V-grooves routed in on a 1 7/8" 
centers. The grooves run longitudinally and I need a piece about 12 inches high 
and 24 inches long with the grooves running along the 24" direction.  As far as 
I can tell without cutting out a piece, this ceiling is screwed into stringers 
(behind the 'ceiling') that appear to run longitudinally at the top and bottom 
of the ceiling, which on my boat runs under the V-berth cubby storage cabinets 
down to the fiberglass beneath the V-berth cushion. The screws are covered by 
bungs. I don't know if C manufactured this ceiling material in house or had a 
source for it. I do think a lot of their boats had this 'ceiling' on the inside 
of their hulls.

  

I would appreciate any leads on where I might find some of this 'ceiling' with 
the grooves already cut. 

  

Alternatively, I may have to take a replacement piece of wood to a local 
woodshed and have grooves routed in it or buy a router and some appropriate 
wood and have at it myself.

  

Thanks in advance for any further help--as well as your terminology lesson!

  

Charlie Nelson

1995 C 36 XL/kcb

Water Phantom

-Original Message-
From: Rod Stright via CnC-List 
To: 'Stus-List' 
Cc: Rod Stright 
Sent: Sun, Jan 31, 2021 9:30 pm
Subject: Stus-List FW: Re: Interior 'walls'

Hi fellow C 99 owners,

On the inside of the hull the covering applied is properly called a ceiling. I 
am from a family of wooden boatbuilders and we don’t like to use terminology 
associated with houses on boats but ceiling is defined below from the Glossary 
of Nautical terms.

ceiling

Planking attached to the inside of the frames or floors of a wooden hull, 
usually to separate the cargo from the hull planking itself. The ceiling has 
different names in different places: limber boards, spirketting, quickwork. The 
lower part of the ceiling is, confusingly to a landsman, what you are standing 
on at the bottom of the hold of a wooden ship

On pleasure boats example Image https://www.pinterest.ca/pin/82612974387656165/

 

Tried to include some pictures but they wouldn’t go through on this website.

 

Rod Stright

C 99

Halifax, NS

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List FW: Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'

[Rod Stright via CnC-List]

Thanks Charlie,

 

The only boat I had with a wooden ceiling in it was a Frers 33.  It had narrow 
strips with beveled edges held in by stainless steel screws which allowed you 
to take them out and refinish if required. I tried to attach/enclose a picture 
but the site doesn’t seem to allow it to go through.

 

Rod

From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 
Sent: January-31-21 11:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Cc: cenel...@aol.com  
Subject: Stus-List Re: FW: Re: Interior 'walls'

 

Thanks Rod--you obviously know your nautical terms, as do some others on this 
list. Now a few more listers, including myself, know what to call this 
'planking'. 

 

With that out of the way, back to draining the swamp!  To wit:  some of this  
'ceiling'  in my V berth on my 1995 C 36 XL/kcb has been destroyed by a water 
leak at my forward port hull deck joint leak--since repaired.

 

What I am trying to find is a source of the ceiling to match my original, which 
looks to be either ~1/4" teak or plywood with V-grooves routed in on a 1 7/8" 
centers. The grooves run longitudinally and I need a piece about 12 inches high 
and 24 inches long with the grooves running along the 24" direction.  As far as 
I can tell without cutting out a piece, this ceiling is screwed into stringers 
(behind the 'ceiling') that appear to run longitudinally at the top and bottom 
of the ceiling, which on my boat runs under the V-berth cubby storage cabinets 
down to the fiberglass beneath the V-berth cushion. The screws are covered by 
bungs. I don't know if C manufactured this ceiling material in house or had a 
source for it. I do think a lot of their boats had this 'ceiling' on the inside 
of their hulls.

 

I would appreciate any leads on where I might find some of this 'ceiling' with 
the grooves already cut. 

 

Alternatively, I may have to take a replacement piece of wood to a local 
woodshed and have grooves routed in it or buy a router and some appropriate 
wood and have at it myself.

 

Thanks in advance for any further help--as well as your terminology lesson!

 

Charlie Nelson

1995 C 36 XL/kcb

Water Phantom

-Original Message-
From: Rod Stright via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
To: 'Stus-List' mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: Rod Stright mailto:strig...@eastlink.ca> >
Sent: Sun, Jan 31, 2021 9:30 pm
Subject: Stus-List FW: Re: Interior 'walls'

Hi fellow C 99 owners,

On the inside of the hull the covering applied is properly called a ceiling. I 
am from a family of wooden boatbuilders and we don’t like to use terminology 
associated with houses on boats but ceiling is defined below from the Glossary 
of Nautical terms.

ceiling

Planking attached to the inside of the  
 frames or  
 floors of a 
wooden hull, usually to separate the cargo from the hull planking itself. The 
ceiling has different names in different places:  
 limber 
boards,   
spirketting,  
 quickwork. 
The lower part of the ceiling is, confusingly to a landsman, what you are 
standing on at the bottom of the hold of a wooden ship

On pleasure boats example Image https://www.pinterest.ca/pin/82612974387656165/

 

Tried to include some pictures but they wouldn’t go through on this website.

 

Rod Stright

C 99

Halifax, NS

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  
 Thanks - Stu

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu