Re: Stus-List Sad craigslisted C

[Bernard Bauman via CnC-List]

An opportunity to buy a great-brand sailboat at a negative price!


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab® S

 Original message 
From: Dreuge via CnC-List  
Date: 3/22/17  4:34 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Dreuge  
Subject: Stus-List Sad craigslisted CC 

I just came across a real sad C 25 listed on Craigslist
https://panamacity.craigslist.org/boa/6032234808.html




-
Paul E.1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Ft Walton, FL
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/


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Stus-List Keel Centerboard Damage Liability

[Bernard Bauman via CnC-List]

I am looking at some C with keel centerboards. I have concerns about 
potential keel damage in event of grounding with the centerboard up.  Not 
knowing exact construction, I wonder if bottom portion of keel is lead or 
fiberglass. Owners experience appreciated. Also what has been K/CB owners 
experience with rudder in grounding, which is about as low as 
keel?Thanks,BernieEx-C owner looking for new one.___

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Re: Stus-List Singing Rigging

[Bernard Bauman via CnC-List]

Is that why they call it "tuning the rigging"?
BernieEx C 25 #342Shopping for new boat

 Original message 
From: Franklin Schenk via CnC-List  
Date: 07/25/2016  9:09 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Franklin Schenk , Christian Tirtirau 
 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Singing Rigging 

I think what is happening is that either a shroud or a stay has hit resonant 
frequency.  I think that either tightening or loosing it will eliminate the 
noise.  Resonant frequency is the natural frequency of an object.  This happens 
to my wife when she gets mad at me and is wound up tight.
FrankC 29 

On Monday, July 25, 2016 3:16 PM, Christian Tirtirau via CnC-List 
 wrote:
  

 Hello fellow seers,
I'm getting this humming in the mast as soon as I have a little breeze while on 
the mooring ball and it's really annoying. At first I thought it was a 
generator or an engine sound propagated by water but I realized it's the 
strings of this big violin that are singing. Any idea how you get rid of that 
without messing up the rig balance? Is it the baby stay? I have a lower that is 
a little loose and when I tension it the sound pitch changes but does not go 
away.
Cheers,
Christian Tirtirau
C 37 Northern Light

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


 ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Grounding a mast - 30mki

[Bernard Bauman via CnC-List]

I’ve heard in the past of this being done, but using chain.  Does anyone know 
of instances where this actually works and prevents lightening bolt from 
entering the cabin? 

Bernie
Ex C 25 (hull # 342)
Shopping for a new boat
Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List___

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Re: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux Brightside/Interlux Prekote

[Bernard Bauman via CnC-List]

Beautiful!!Thank you for very detailed share.Bernie

 Original message 
From: Ryan Doyle via CnC-List  
Date: 05/26/2016  11:46 AM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Ryan Doyle  
Subject: Stus-List My Experience and Mistakes With Interlux 
Brightside/Interlux Prekote 

Hey all,
I've got the day off, so I wanted to post my experience as a first-time boat 
painter repainting the topsides of my 1976 C 30 with Interlux Brightside and 
Interlux Prekote.  I made some small, but dumb mistakes during this process.  
I'm sure the experts will have a little laugh at my expense, but hopefully this 
post will save other first-time painters some grief. 
When I bought my boat back in October, I knew I was going to repaint her.  The 
hull was robin's egg blue... which many people think is a beautiful color, but 
I don't.  The paint job was sloppy with lots of thick brush marks, and it had 
been worn off in a few places from rubbing of her lines and fenders.
This was the state of her hull 
before:https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGMGt4dHNRS0tZSXM
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGRGJaVTFUa0FKcTA
I spent my mornings before work this winter rewiring the entire boat - crawling 
around in cockpit lockers and getting covered in 40-year-old boat grime.  So 
when the weather broke and it was finally time to paint, I was excited to work 
outside.
I bought 8 cans of Steel Gray Interlux Brightside (A.K.A. Way Too Much... but 
more on that later) and 2 cans of Gray Interlux PreKote from defender.com for a 
total of $351.90 before shipping.  
When the paint arrived, I carefully taped off the toe rail at the top, and the 
line where the bottom paint starts with Scotch Blue Painter's tape.

Looking like a CDC agent in my 3m respirator, gloves, and cover-alls, I got to 
work sanding.  If you read online, you'll quickly learn that sanding is the key 
to a nice finish.  Thankfully, I took this advice seriously.  
I sanded the old paint off using 150 grit pads on my cheap Black and Decker 
orbit sander.  I sanded until I could just see the old paint disappear, then I 
moved on to a new section until I had gone over the whole hull.  I then wiped 
down the whole hull with a rag soaked in Interlux 333 brushing liquid
Sanded:https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGNGVFWUp4YkpSemM
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8g8d5sXYVWGS2Q4bmJhU2JXaWM
I hit those old decals with a blast from my heat gun and they peeled right off.
Now it was time to prime.  I was nervous when I opened the first can of 
Interlux PreKote because the stuff was completely separated - the solids were 
all on the bottom of the can.  I thought maybe I had bought bad paint and I was 
also concerned that the weather - then hovering around 55-60 degrees was too 
cold to apply it.  I took my drill with a mixing bit and mixed up the paint as 
best I could.  This got it to a nice consistency.
Donning zero protective clothing - just an old pair of gym shorts, an old tee 
shirt and brand new sandals - I took a foam roller and rolled on one coat of 
primer.  This primer was very thick and I thought it did a nice job filling 
imperfections. 
Here's where I made dumb mistake #1:  I got covered in paint.  I have plenty of 
experience with interior house paints, and at the time I thought, "No biggie.  
I'll just rise it off with a hose."  Hah.  
As I wet my hands, the water just beaded up and my hands stuck together.  "Oh 
yeah.  Boat paint."
Not wanting to use nasty paint thinners to remove it from skin, I went home and 
used high percentage rubbing alcohol and a towel.  With a lot of elbow grease, 
this took the paint and a few layers of skin off quite nicely.  I then waited a 
day for the primer on the boat to dry.
The next morning, I sanded it.  Sanding will be a recurring theme in this post. 
 I used 150 grit discs again and worked to get the surface as smooth as 
possible.  In tough, uneven places, I sometimes sanded the primer completely 
away, trying to get the surface smooth knowing that I was going to apply 
another coat.
I then wiped the whole hull with a damp rag to remove the sanding dust and 
rolled on another coat of Interlux PreKote - this time with coveralls on.
The next day I sanded again with 220 grit.  Got it to a nice, smooth finish, 
and wiped the hull down again with a damp rag. 
Now before I get into the finish coating, I want to say I have always been 
confused by the phrase "roll and tip".  This makes it sound way more 
complicated than it is.  The definition, as far as I know, of the word "tip" 
has nothing to do with what you actually do.  For the amateurs out there, I 
think the process could be more clearly described as "roll and brush".
This is the best YouTube video I've found of how to roll and 
tip/brush:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k-SGcSlNmoo
The helpful guys at my local West Marine told me to paint a full section of the 
boat at one time - IE the