Stus-List 29-2 Main for sale

[Kathy & Bruce via CnC-List]

CnC 29-2 Bay Sails Haarstick loose foot mainsail with 2 full length and 2 
pocket battens; $400 CDN.  Was winning races with it last season.

Sent from my iPhone

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Re: Stus-List Flexible epoxy

[Kathy & Bruce via CnC-List]

Understood, we’re talking about a mast collar.  Puts the check mark in the 5200 
column.  Cheers

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 25, 2020, at 3:36 PM, David Risch  wrote:
> 
> 5200 is an adhesive and sealant.   PIA to remove.  4200 does the same thing 
> without the PIA adhesive.
> 
> David F. Risch
> (401) 419-4650
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Kathy & Bruce via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, June 25, 2020 3:34 PM
> To: Fred Hazzard 
> Cc: Kathy & Bruce ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Flexible epoxy
> 
> 3M 5200; flexible and strong bond.  Used for keel joints (CnC plus many more) 
> amongst other permanent assembly applications.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Jun 25, 2020, at 2:08 PM, Fred Hazzard  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> All this discussion about epoxy reminds me of an ongoing leak problem. 
>> I have had a leak where the mast collar bolts thru the deck.  I have tried a 
>> variety flexible sealants with no success.
>> Then I tried Captain Tolleys. Bingo, no more leak until the first time I 
>> went for a sail. The mast moved some and the epoxy seal failed.  
>> 
>> There are 12  1/4” bolts clamping the inner and outer collars to the deck. 
>> I would love it there is liquid epoxy like capt tolleys that will remain 
>> flexible. 
>> 
>> I welcome your ideas. 
>> 
>> Fred Hazzard
>> S/V Fury
>> C 44
>> Portland Or
> 
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Re: Stus-List Flexible epoxy

[Kathy & Bruce via CnC-List]

3M 5200; flexible and strong bond.  Used for keel joints (CnC plus many more) 
amongst other permanent assembly applications.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 25, 2020, at 2:08 PM, Fred Hazzard  wrote:
> 
> 
> All this discussion about epoxy reminds me of an ongoing leak problem. I have 
> had a leak where the 
> mast collar bolts thru the deck.  I have tried a variety flexible sealants 
> with no success. 
> Then I tried Captain Tolleys. Bingo, no more leak until the first time I went 
> for a sail. The mast moved some and the epoxy seal failed.  
>  
> There are 12  1/4” bolts clamping the inner and outer collars to the deck. 
> I would love it there is liquid epoxy like capt tolleys that will remain 
> flexible. 
> 
> I welcome your ideas. 
> 
> Fred Hazzard 
> S/V Fury 
> C 44
> Portland Or 

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Re: Stus-List Large Helm Wheel

[Bruce via CnC-List]

Thanks Chuck! 

 

OK, that’s strange, or I’m demented.  I just re-measured and the wheel shaft 
is, in fact 1”, the keyway is ¼”, and the hub width is 2 ½” (not 2 3/8”), but I 
would think close enough…

 

I swear I measured twice the last time!  

 

Kindest Regards,

 

Bruce C. Whitmore

1994 C 37/40+, “Astralis”

Madeira Beach, FL

847.404.5092

bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck 
Gilchrest via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2018 2:14 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest <csgilchr...@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Large Helm Wheel

 

Bruce,

While the wheel is made by Edson, this aluminum Diamond Series wheel may not be 
a direct replacement for Steel Destroyer wheels.  The majority of Destroyer 
Wheels fit a wheel shaft 1” diameter, 1/4” key and a hub width of 2 3/8”.  From 
2001 and later, Edson switched to a tapered wheel shaft with a through shaft 
wheel brake.

Check the specs on this wheel as many boats with oversized wheels had special 
steering shafts custom made for the boat.  This wheel would fit an early model 
J120 or J105 though...

Chuck Gilchrest 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone


On Feb 16, 2018, at 1:34 PM, Bruce via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hello all,

 

Despite some of the folks recommendations, I have to face the fact that my wife 
does not want the large steering wheel on Astralis.  As cruisers, the idea of a 
wheel that takes extra contortions to walk around is just not attractive to her 
(or to me, to be honest), especially when we intend to use the boat for fun but 
fast coastal cruising with a goal of eventual Caribbean cruising.  Since 
finally installing the autopilot over the holiday break, I already find myself 
spending less and less time at the helm.

 

So, our large wheel is now available.   It is 54” across, aluminum, and has a 
standard Edson 1.5” hub with keyway slot.  

 

Here’s some photos:

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8e8vu33an0i4716/Large%20Sailboat%20Wheel%2C%20Other%20Side.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/anyk7z1je52hbrk/Large%20Sailboat%20Wheel.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/966m408hwz00tfe/Large%20Sailboat%20Wheel%20Center.jpg?dl=0

 

It is quite light (probably less than 5 lbs.) but large enough that shipping 
may be a tad pricey.

 

Those who are interested, please feel free to drop me a note offline.

 

Kindest Regards,

 

Bruce C. Whitmore

1994 C 37/40+, “Astralis”

Madeira Beach, FL

847.404.5092

bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net <mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net> 

 

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Stus-List Large Helm Wheel

[Bruce via CnC-List]

Hello all,

 

Despite some of the folks recommendations, I have to face the fact that my
wife does not want the large steering wheel on Astralis.  As cruisers, the
idea of a wheel that takes extra contortions to walk around is just not
attractive to her (or to me, to be honest), especially when we intend to use
the boat for fun but fast coastal cruising with a goal of eventual Caribbean
cruising.  Since finally installing the autopilot over the holiday break, I
already find myself spending less and less time at the helm.

 

So, our large wheel is now available.   It is 54" across, aluminum, and has
a standard Edson 1.5" hub with keyway slot.  

 

Here's some photos:

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/8e8vu33an0i4716/Large%20Sailboat%20Wheel%2C%20Othe
r%20Side.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/anyk7z1je52hbrk/Large%20Sailboat%20Wheel.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/966m408hwz00tfe/Large%20Sailboat%20Wheel%20Center.
jpg?dl=0

 

It is quite light (probably less than 5 lbs.) but large enough that shipping
may be a tad pricey.

 

Those who are interested, please feel free to drop me a note offline.

 

Kindest Regards,

 

Bruce C. Whitmore

1994 C 37/40+, "Astralis"

Madeira Beach, FL

847.404.5092

bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

 

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Re: Stus-List Hard bimini?

[Bruce via CnC-List]

Hi Josh,

 

That certainly explains a lot, especially with the added complication of the 
large wheel.  I can certainly see how having a big wheel would require you to 
cross the seats, and make higher head room a priority.  

 

Our boat also came with a large wheel, but the prior owner was kind enough to 
give us the original standard wheel as well.  My wife has made it abundantly 
clear that she doesn’t want the big wheel on the boat, especially since we use 
the boat for cruising (coastal for now) with a lot of it on autopilot.  So, a 
higher bimini won’t be a priority for us.

 

I know some folks here are interested in our larger wheel, so I will post about 
it’s availability next.

 

Kindest Regards,

 

Bruce C. Whitmore

1994 C 37/40+, “Astralis”

Madeira Beach, FL

847.404.5092

bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2018 5:54 AM
To: C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hard bimini?

 

Bruce,

 

It might have started with the original dodger which was considerably harder to 
see around/through.  Any dodger has to be high to allow head room due to the 
elevated companionway.  The previous dodger was more aesthetic but less 
functional.  This dodger provides good shade and protection while not impeding 
entry or winch usage.  These windows are a hard glass and stay clearer with 
less distortion and have a very minimal fabric frame.   It is not uncommon for 
us to sit on the hump in a squatted position with our feet on the forward 
corners of the aft locker lids.  When things get spicy we are already in a 
position to brace and if a better vantage is required then it is just the act 
of standing up.  The steering wheel is pretty large and in order to get forward 
of it, it is typical for us to stand on the aft and side benches to walk around.

 

IIRC one of the other 37+ owners shared our sentiments.  Maybe it was Brian Fry.

 

Josh

 

 

 

On Feb 15, 2018 11:34 PM, "bwhitmore via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

We've never felt that need.  Just curious, did that tendency arise after you 
put on the Dodger or is it because of the dodger you want night to improve your 
field of view?

 

Thanks for all your insights,

 

Bruce Whitmore  

 

 

 

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 

 Original message 

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Date: 2/15/18 10:58 PM (GMT-05:00) 

To: C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com <mailto:muckl...@gmail.com> > 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Hard bimini? 

 

Both my wife and I prefer the vantage and the bench corners tend to provide a 
more sturdy foot hold.

 

Josh

 

On Feb 15, 2018 10:32 PM, "bwhitmore via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Just curious Josh, whu do you stand on the benches?

 

Bruce Whitmore 

 

 

 

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 

 Original message 

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Date: 2/15/18 9:59 PM (GMT-05:00) 

To: C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com <mailto:muckl...@gmail.com> > 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Hard bimini? 

 

The pictures in this link are my brain storming image mock ups.  I stand on the 
benches constantly so having head room is extremely important.  Of course with 
head room means boom interference.  My imagination is that the bimini extends 
behind the cockpit in a reflection of the reverse transom.

 

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BwNze1nnSQ2-fktxdFRDXzRFQWl3SEVSRmpSaDY2YkVIMEEyeHdKUHJNNWFfeU9DQnoyMHc

 

Josh Muckley 

S/V Sea Hawk 

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD 

 

On Feb 14, 2018 11:46 AM, "Bruce via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I should know more in the not too distant future.  Hard-to-Top is sending me 
sample material, and if I like it, I think I’ll move forward with it in the 
next 30 days or so.

 

I’ll keep everyone posted,

 

Bruce Whitmore

1994 C 37/40+ “Astralis”

Madeira Beach, FL

847.404.5092 <tel:(847)%20404-5092> 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> ] On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2018 9:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Della Barba, Joe <joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov <mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hard bimini?

 

 

I too am interested in this, my B

Re: Stus-List Help with folding prop insights?

[Bruce via CnC-List]

Gary, that is good, hands-on, experienced insight.  

 

Thank you!

 

Bruce C. Whitmore

1994 C 37/40+, “Astralis”

Madeira Beach, FL

847.404.5092

bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, February 16, 2018 11:52 AM
To: C List 
Cc: Gary Russell 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Help with folding prop insights?

 

I have to provide the dissenting opinion on the Martec prop.  Many years ago, I 
had to make a quick stop when two kids in a dinghy came out of a mooring field 
in front of me.  In order not to hit them I slammed the boat in reverse.  Being 
not  geared, one of the blades did not open.  The resulting imbalance ( at full 
power) bent the shaft severely.  The resulting 1/2" run out created incredible 
vibration.  The shaft and prop had to be removed for repair.  I would never use 
a folding prop that isn't geared.  I currently use a 3 blade Flex-O-Fold prop 
which has very good reviews and I'm happy with it.

 

Gary

S/V Kaylarah

'90 C 37+

East Greenwich, RI, USA




~~~_/)~~

 

On Fri, Feb 16, 2018 at 9:54 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List  > wrote:

 

My LF38 came with a 2 blade Martec Eliptec (LH18DX14P-3 1-1/8), and I agree 
with others that the performance is surprising good.   Yes I often 
forget/neglect to align the blades, and I have experienced the boat shake on a 
rare occasions.  Performance wise, forward to hull speed is no problem in flat 
water, but like others, I cruise at about 6.5 with a lower rpm (Yanmar 
3QM30/Paragon/Walter-Vee).  With regards to backing/stopping, I have not hit 
anything (harder than willing) yet. I do get some starboard prop walk which I 
try to take advantage of, but it is nothing compared to the walk of my old 
29Mk1 w/ a fixed 2 bladed prop. 

 

 

-
Paul E.

1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/





On Feb 15, 2018, at 10:32 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
  wrote:

 

My Martec runs very smoothly with a couple small harmonics at different
rpm's.  That's normal for nearly all drive trains.

Forward power is good.  I think my prop is a wee bit underpitched.  I can
get hull speed with a clean bottom and max rpm but only 6.4-6.5 at cruise
rpm (80% max).

I really haven't had any issue with opening, closing, etc.  I think the
Martec is a good choice for folks who race and want minimal drag.  If my
use was only cruising, I'd probably have a different prop.

Dennis C.

 


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Re: Stus-List Help with folding prop insights?

[Bruce via CnC-List]

Well, thankfully (or not) I found the pin, which is a good thing, except that 
it was clearly broken during the removal process.  At least I have something to 
measure.  The pin is really pretty tight in one blade, but a little sloppy on 
the other, so yes, it will need to be refurbished.  

 

Interestingly, I can get to my prop shaft very easily by removing an inspection 
panel in the cabin sole, so aligning the prop  will be no big deal at all.

 

How do you feel about vibration (presumably the refurbishment would take care 
of a lot of the potential problems) and forward power?

 

Kindest Regards,

 

Bruce C. Whitmore

1994 C 37/40+, “Astralis”

Madeira Beach, FL

847.404.5092

bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2018 9:02 PM
To: CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Dennis C. <capt...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Help with folding prop insights?

 

Bruce,

 

You're not going to get a lot of positive comments about Martec props on this 
list.  You'll get a lot of suggestions about this prop and that prop.

 

Having said that, I have a Martec Elliptical on Touche'.  While it might not be 
everyone's favorite, I don't have any problems with it.  Sure, I have to drop 
down into a cockpit locker to align it before a race or a long sail but that's 
the nature of non-geared folding props.

 

As for rev erse, I back into my home slip without any issue at all.  Just need 
a bit of practice and anticipation and you'll be good to go (or back up).

 

I've dealt with Martec a couple times and found them to be fairly responsive.  
They should be able to send you whatever parts you need.  

 

One thing to be aware of with Martec props.  They have 3 "lives".  With use, 
the pin holes in the blades will begin to wallow out and the blades will start 
to become loose on the pin.  The fix is to return the prop to Martec where they 
will, for a price, recondition it.  Part of the reconditioning process is to 
re-bore the hub and blades for a larger pin.  You can only do this twice.  
Hence the 3 lives, the original life plus 2 rebuilds.

 

So, before you send the prop to Martec for reconditioning, measure the pin 
diameter and call them to see how many lives it has left.

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

On Thu, Feb 15, 2018 at 7:28 PM, Bruce via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hello all,

 

I have a fixed, 3 bladed prop on Astralis currently, and suspect that its 
slowing us down here in Florida where we just don’t get the wind like we did on 
Lake Michigan, so we rarely see much over 12 kts or so.  I’m thinking I’d like 
to get a little more speed out of her, and one area of improvement could be the 
fixed prop.  

 

In the pile of old parts that the prior owner left us, I found an old, and 
obviously used Martec Eliptec RH18DX12P-3, two blade folding prop (it is not 
geared).  I have the blades and hub, but at the moment cannot find the center 
pin.  It seems like Martec may still be in the business of repairing these 
props.

 

I’ve read some of the various reviews, and I understand there are better 
solutions out there, but clearly I’d be dropping a few boat bucks to pull it 
off.  

 

Do any of you have direct experience with the Martec Eliptec, and can advise me 
whether I’ll hate this thing from a performance or vibration point of view if I 
get a pin and put it on the boat?  

 

I am OK with somewhat limited reverse, but would be anxious if I was giving up 
a lot of forward power.  And, I really don’t want a lot of vibration, 
especially if it’s going to do things like tear up the cutlass bearing.  

 

Thanks for your insights!  

 

Bruce C. Whitmore

1994 C 37/40+, “Astralis”

Madeira Beach, FL

847.404.5092 <tel:(847)%20404-5092> 

bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net <mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net> 

 


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Stus-List Help with folding prop insights?

[Bruce via CnC-List]

Hello all,

 

I have a fixed, 3 bladed prop on Astralis currently, and suspect that its
slowing us down here in Florida where we just don't get the wind like we did
on Lake Michigan, so we rarely see much over 12 kts or so.  I'm thinking I'd
like to get a little more speed out of her, and one area of improvement
could be the fixed prop.  

 

In the pile of old parts that the prior owner left us, I found an old, and
obviously used Martec Eliptec RH18DX12P-3, two blade folding prop (it is not
geared).  I have the blades and hub, but at the moment cannot find the
center pin.  It seems like Martec may still be in the business of repairing
these props.

 

I've read some of the various reviews, and I understand there are better
solutions out there, but clearly I'd be dropping a few boat bucks to pull it
off.  

 

Do any of you have direct experience with the Martec Eliptec, and can advise
me whether I'll hate this thing from a performance or vibration point of
view if I get a pin and put it on the boat?  

 

I am OK with somewhat limited reverse, but would be anxious if I was giving
up a lot of forward power.  And, I really don't want a lot of vibration,
especially if it's going to do things like tear up the cutlass bearing.  

 

Thanks for your insights!  

 

Bruce C. Whitmore

1994 C 37/40+, "Astralis"

Madeira Beach, FL

847.404.5092

bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

 

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Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 original list price

[Bruce via CnC-List]

The original sale price on our 1994 C 37/40+ was +/- $225,000 (USD).  

 

If it weren’t for depreciation, I couldn’t afford to sail!

 

Hoping the curve is pretty flat from here on out, 

 

Bruce C. Whitmore

1994 C 37/40+, “Astralis”

Madeira Beach, FL

847.404.5092

bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ed 
vanderkruk via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2018 5:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: ed vanderkruk ; John Christopher 

Subject: Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 original list price

 

I have the original bill of sale from one of the last Landfalls ( LF38 hull 229 
) commissioned out of Niagara on the Lake in 1982. I believe all-in it was 
close to 100k Canadian ... but would have to check the builders file on the 
boat.

 

 

 

Ed

 

On Feb 15, 2018 5:32 PM, "John Christopher via CnC-List"  > wrote:

You can check out this website to compare dollars then to now.

 

I calculated 32K (Guess) in 1979 and it calculated 109634.44 in 2017 taking 
inflation into account.

 

https://westegg.com/inflation/

 

 

John
- LF 38, 1983, #155

 

 


On Feb 15, 2018, at 4:58 PM, Della Barba, Joe  > wrote:

I think the original owners of Coquina paid $24K to buy here new in 1973 and we 
paid $35K in 1977. We paid $34K for our house in 1969, so I grew up thinking 
boat>house was a normal state of affairs. 

Joe

Coquina

C 35 MK I

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2018 3:23 PM
To: CnClist  >
Cc: Dennis C.  >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Landfall 38 original list price

 

Paul,

 

Doesn't answer your post but below is a link to Touche's original 1971 order 
from the yacht broker to Hinterhoeller.  Shows a base price of $18,760 with 
$872 worth of options.  A Landfall 10 years later would have been a wee bit 
more.

 

Interesting note on Page 2, Item 81.  "DO NOT install genoa sheet winches or 
cleats."  Never have figured that one out.

 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1y6lBr8452ciJtkdrVQ2OLIKTbJAuFgb5

 

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

 

 

 

On Thu, Feb 15, 2018 at 11:15 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List  > wrote:

Hi,

 

I was asked a question about the Landfall 38 original list price, and  I 
realized I had no clue.   Does anyone know what they were original going for in 
1981 or thereabouts?

 

-
Paul E.

1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

 

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

 


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Re: Stus-List Hard Bimini

[Bruce via CnC-List]

Sorry, I forgot to add the link to the photo!  

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/0rlqciawspzi1ff/Astralis%20Under%20Sail%20%28Corrected%2020131109a%29.jpg?dl=0

 

Kindest Regards,

 

Bruce C. Whitmore

1994 C 37/40+, “Astralis”

Madeira Beach, FL

847.404.5092

bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2018 5:30 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hard Bimini

 

Hello J-G,

 

Here’s a photo of Astralis under sail (yes, I know the bimini is tilted back in 
the photo – the bimini on the boat was not built to exacting specifications).  

 

I’m not looking at adding a dodger as of yet, though we may get there one day.  
However, the main sheet in the forward of the cockpit would demand a separate 
dodger from the bimini.  

 

Kindest Regards,

 

Bruce C. Whitmore

1994 C 37/40+, “Astralis”

Madeira Beach, FL

847.404.5092

bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net <mailto:bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net> 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jean-Guy 
Nadeau via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2018 2:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: Jean-Guy Nadeau <jgnad...@hotmail.com <mailto:jgnad...@hotmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Hard Bimini

 

What boat? With our 35 Mk2 we have a hard dodger and soft bimini. Because of 
the low boom we have to fold the bimini when under mainsail. Slower design 
would not give sufficient headroom in the cockpit. The boom just clears the 
dodger. We have solar panels mounted on the top of the bimini frame.

Cheers, J-G 

Callisto

Victoria, BC

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Re: Stus-List Hard Bimini

[Bruce via CnC-List]

Hello J-G,

 

Here’s a photo of Astralis under sail (yes, I know the bimini is tilted back in 
the photo – the bimini on the boat was not built to exacting specifications).  

 

I’m not looking at adding a dodger as of yet, though we may get there one day.  
However, the main sheet in the forward of the cockpit would demand a separate 
dodger from the bimini.  

 

Kindest Regards,

 

Bruce C. Whitmore

1994 C 37/40+, “Astralis”

Madeira Beach, FL

847.404.5092

bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jean-Guy 
Nadeau via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2018 2:21 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jean-Guy Nadeau 
Subject: Stus-List Hard Bimini

 

What boat? With our 35 Mk2 we have a hard dodger and soft bimini. Because of 
the low boom we have to fold the bimini when under mainsail. Slower design 
would not give sufficient headroom in the cockpit. The boom just clears the 
dodger. We have solar panels mounted on the top of the bimini frame.

Cheers, J-G 

Callisto

Victoria, BC

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Stus-List FW: Really good deal on Gill jacket

[Bruce via CnC-List]

Hello all,

 

Don’t know if you folks saw this deal on Gill jackets:

 

 

 

Mauri Pro Sailing 

 

 




Mauri Pro Sailing



 

 

 

Kindest Regards,

 

Bruce C. Whitmore

1994 C 37/40+, “Astralis”

Madeira Beach, FL

847.404.5092

bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net

 

bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net  

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Re: Stus-List Hard bimini?

[Bruce via CnC-List]

I should know more in the not too distant future.  Hard-to-Top is sending me 
sample material, and if I like it, I think I’ll move forward with it in the 
next 30 days or so.

 

I’ll keep everyone posted,

 

Bruce Whitmore

1994 C 37/40+ “Astralis”

Madeira Beach, FL

847.404.5092

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 14, 2018 9:25 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hard bimini?

 

 

I too am interested in this, my Bimini needs a lot of stitching right now :(

Google-Fu shows some creative cheap solutions. Maryland watermen never met an 
old piece of plywood they couldn’t nail onto a crab boat for shade and shelter 
and people have just attached plywood to their Bimini frame. I have also heard 
of using 4x8 foot fiberglass sheets sold at Home Depot for shower installs and 
they are pretty cheap too and never rot. The next idea isn’t exactly cheap, but 
does serve two functions: Get solar panels big enough and bolt them together 
and use the panels themselves for the covering. I think I would be in the 
200-400 watt range that way! 

The latest Good Old Boat has an article about making a hard Bimini yourself as 
well.

 

 

Joe

Coquina 

C 35 MK I

 

(If have no pride but hate sun, rumor has it Harbor Freight blue tarps are 
cheap)

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Re: Stus-List Shifter C 27 Mk 3

[bruce via CnC-List]

Tiller. Handle broke. Little nub still in base


Bruce Vineberg
[X]
VICON REAL ESTATE SERVICES INC.
334-300 RUE BERGE DU CANAL
LACHINE, QUEBEC
H8R 1H3
RBQ 5614 6228 01

514 987 0052 ph
514 221 4302 fax
514 236 3767 cell

br...@vicon.ca<mailto:br...@vicon.ca>
www.vicon.ca<http://www.vicon.ca>

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On Jul 16, 2017, at 22:13, Josh Muckley 
<muckl...@gmail.com<mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>> wrote:

How is the shifter broken?  The cable is probably and easy replacement with the 
correct length teleflex.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Jul 16, 2017 9:55 PM, "bruce via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Just noticed shifter broke,forward reverse neutral. Ideas for repair 
replacement please.

Bruce Vineberg
[cid:]
VICON REAL ESTATE SERVICES INC.
334-300 RUE BERGE DU CANAL
LACHINE, QUEBEC
H8R 1H3
RBQ 5614 6228 01

514 987 0052<tel:(514)%20987-0052> ph
514 221 4302<tel:(514)%20221-4302> fax
514 236 3767<tel:(514)%20236-3767> cell

br...@vicon.ca<mailto:br...@vicon.ca>
www.vicon.ca<http://www.vicon.ca>

AVIS DE CONFIDENTIALITÉ : Le présent courriel, y compris tous les documents 
qu'il contient ou qui y sont joints, renferme des renseignements exclusifs et 
confidentiels destinés uniquement à l'usage interne du destinataire prévu. Si 
vous avez reçu le présent courriel par erreur, veuillez nous aviser 
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supprimé de façon permanente de vos systèmes; veuillez également vous abstenir 
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NOTICE OF CONFIDENTIALITY:This e-mail, including all materials contained in or 
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Stus-List Shifter C 27 Mk 3

[bruce via CnC-List]

Just noticed shifter broke,forward reverse neutral. Ideas for repair 
replacement please.

Bruce Vineberg
[X]
VICON REAL ESTATE SERVICES INC.
334-300 RUE BERGE DU CANAL
LACHINE, QUEBEC
H8R 1H3
RBQ 5614 6228 01

514 987 0052 ph
514 221 4302 fax
514 236 3767 cell

br...@vicon.ca
www.vicon.ca

AVIS DE CONFIDENTIALITÉ : Le présent courriel, y compris tous les documents 
qu'il contient ou qui y sont joints, renferme des renseignements exclusifs et 
confidentiels destinés uniquement à l'usage interne du destinataire prévu. Si 
vous avez reçu le présent courriel par erreur, veuillez nous aviser 
immédiatement, notamment par retour de courriel, et vous assurer qu'il est 
supprimé de façon permanente de vos systèmes; veuillez également vous abstenir 
d'imprimer, de copier, de distribuer ou de lire son contenu.
NOTICE OF CONFIDENTIALITY:This e-mail, including all materials contained in or 
attached to this e-mail, contains proprietary and confidential information 
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Stus-List For Sale

[Joel Bruce via CnC-List]

1986 C 35 MKIII, located in Maine.  Email for questions, 42k, offers
considered.  joel.bruc...@gmail.com

Joel Bruce
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Stus-List Paint

[bruce via CnC-List]

Looking for a good quality paint to paint the inside of the sail lockers, and 
other such areas.  Bright and Clean.  Ideas please.


Bruce
C 27 Mk III
Asterie
Montreal, Quebec

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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 132, Issue 37

[bruce via CnC-List]

Cleaning winches, what about Varsol?
Bruce 
C C 27 Asterie

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2017 3:16 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 132, Issue 37

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Stus-List boat names

[Bruce via CnC-List]

mdeyoung said " I took part in a 1985 Transpac charter of a Barnett 52
named “Climax”.  “Climax” was owned by two lady part doctors. I
sailed several Sauza Cups (Lahaina YC, Maui) on a Choate 40 named
“Phoenix” as the owner’s previous boat burned to the waterline
after his spouse over-primed the alcohol stove and the fire got out of
control."

//

We must have crossed paths at some point.  I raced on Climax when Mike
Campbell owneb her, before he built the Andrews-70 "Victoria". and I
spent a *bunch* of time on Choate-40s in SoCal, including Spirit (hull
#1), Sixpence (Dennis Choate's boat) and Audacious.  Some great names
from that bunch of boats, including "BigWig" (built by an owner who was
tired of losing races to a boat called "Fiver", both of which are names
from the book Watership Down); "Red Shift" (owned by a physicist at JPL,
painted to reflect the "red shift" in the color spectrum as a celestial
object moves away from you)... etc.

My personal favorite boat names, besides the aforementioned FUJIMO, came
from a guy who named his boats from headlines in the Weekly World
News... he had an Olson-30 called "Aliens Ate My Buick", a Schock-35
called "Psycho Betty", etc...

Bruce

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Stus-List Also looking at a C 36 - engine at an angle?

[Bruce via CnC-List]

Yeah, so... in my quest to find my next boat, looking at a variety of 32-36' C
 
I looked at a C yesterday, the first 36 I've inspected.  Was surprised to note that, both from the companionway access and the lazarette access, it looked like the engine was mounted offset - it appeared to be angled maybe 3-4 degrees off centerline - the forward end on centerline, the aft end of it offset to port.
 
I wasn't smart enough to look at the shaft (I only had a half hour on the boat, broker had another appoinment), but it got me to wondering - is the shaft offset on the 36 (to counteract prop-walking or something)?  Or does this boat have a major problem?
 
Thx
Bruce

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Re: Stus-List Looking at a C 33-2.... known issues?

[Bruce via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the great info!
 
I've looked under the settees and v-berth; it all looks clean and dry, no signs of rot, hoses and fittings all look "recent" (actually, throughout the boat, plumbing looks to be in very good shape)
 
All the tabbing that I can get to without tools looks great.  If I go forward with this boat, it'll get a full survey and the tabbing, keel-hull joint and through-hulls are high on the list of things I'll want the surveyor to inspect.  
 
It sounds like the only core in the hull is above the waterline.  If so, that's good news.  I had read (somewhere? maybe an owner's manual?) that C recommends removing the core for an inch around the hole and filling with epoxy putty when installing a thru-hull, so I presumed that the core was in place throughout the hull.  Which wouldn't be uncommon in a late-70s/early-80s build.  I'll find out for-sure when out of the water.
 
I think my two "big" concerns are the mast base and mast step, and some of the deck fittings.  There's corrosion at the bottom of the mast, and if it is simply surface corrosion that's no big deal.   If it can be remediated by pulling the rig and cutting off the bottom 1/4" of the extrusion, that's probably OK.  If it extends farther up and/or has the potential to compromise the rig, that's a deal-breaker.
 
And... previous owner sorta got "creative" with some deck hardware.  Installed a solent-stay that dead-ends in a pad-eye just behind the aft edge of the anchor locker.  It does not appear to have a backing plate, and I don't have a diagram that shows where the solid/reinforced areas of the deck are, so I'm very curious about how strong/well-installed that pad-eye is.  Similarly, there's a windlass mounted on deck just aft of the anchor-locker, and reinforced on the underside with simple flat-washers rather than a backing plate.  Again, curious about whether it is a reinforced area of the deck, or potentially doing damage to the core.
 
Engine has ~3200 hours on it, maintenance records seem to indicate it has been thoughtfully maintained, and the [original] engine mounts seem to be okay - didn't note any vibration or hopping while at idle.
 
Much to think about - thanks for all the great insights!
Bruce
 

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Stus-List Also looking at a C 36 - engine at an angle?

[Bruce via CnC-List]

Yeah, so... in my quest to find my next boat, looking at a variety of
32-36' C
 
I looked at a C yesterday, the first 36 I've inspected.  Was
surprised to note that, both from the companionway access and the
lazarette access, it looked like the engine was mounted offset - it
appeared to be angled maybe 3-4 degrees off centerline - the forward end
on centerline, the aft end of it offset to port.
 
I wasn't smart enough to look at the shaft (I only had a half hour on
the boat, broker had another appoinment), but it got me to wondering -
is the shaft offset on the 36 (to counteract prop-walking or something)?
 Or does this boat have a major problem?
 
Thx
Bruce

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Re: Stus-List Looking at a C 33-2.... known issues?

[Bruce via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the great info!
 
I've looked under the settees and v-berth; it all looks clean and dry,
no signs of rot, hoses and fittings all look "recent" (actually,
throughout the boat, plumbing looks to be in very good shape)
 
All the tabbing that I can get to without tools looks great.  If I go
forward with this boat, it'll get a full survey and the tabbing,
keel-hull joint and through-hulls are high on the list of things I'll
want the surveyor to inspect.  
 
It sounds like the only core in the hull is above the waterline.  If so,
that's good news.  I had read (somewhere? maybe an owner's manual?) that
C recommends removing the core for an inch around the hole and filling
with epoxy putty when installing a thru-hull, so I presumed that the
core was in place throughout the hull.  Which wouldn't be uncommon in a
late-70s/early-80s build.  I'll find out for-sure when out of the water.
 
I think my two "big" concerns are the mast base and mast step, and some
of the deck fittings.  There's corrosion at the bottom of the mast, and
if it is simply surface corrosion that's no big deal.   If it can be
remediated by pulling the rig and cutting off the bottom 1/4" of the
extrusion, that's probably OK.  If it extends farther up and/or has the
potential to compromise the rig, that's a deal-breaker.
 
And... previous owner sorta got "creative" with some deck hardware. 
Installed a solent-stay that dead-ends in a pad-eye just behind the aft
edge of the anchor locker.  It does not appear to have a backing plate,
and I don't have a diagram that shows where the solid/reinforced areas
of the deck are, so I'm very curious about how strong/well-installed
that pad-eye is.  Similarly, there's a windlass mounted on deck just aft
of the anchor-locker, and reinforced on the underside with simple
flat-washers rather than a backing plate.  Again, curious about whether
it is a reinforced area of the deck, or potentially doing damage to the
core.
 
Engine has ~3200 hours on it, maintenance records seem to indicate it
has been thoughtfully maintained, and the [original] engine mounts seem
to be okay - didn't note any vibration or hopping while at idle.
 
Much to think about - thanks for all the great insights!
Bruce

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Stus-List Looking at a C 33-2.... known issues?

[Bruce via CnC-List]

I'm looking at a mid-80s C 33-2. Overall, boat looks great, but would love to know if there are known issues with these boats that I should pay attention to. I know about the potential for wet core, and will be getting a full survey if I go forward, I'm more wondering about items peculiar to this modelI'd be especially interested, for example, in knowing if there are patterns of things that need attention: things like sealing or rebedding hatches, replacing leaky windows, wobbly stanchion bases, hard-to-get-to thru-hulls, etc.Things that caught my attention in the first inspection:-- I noticed that there isn't great access to the engine - removing the stairs/forward cover provides access to the front, but it looks like it would be tough to get to the sides if needed. It looks like the only way to get to the shaft coupling and packing gland, for example, is through the cockpit lazarette. Has this proven to be an issue, or is it okay?-- it looks like there has been repair to [at least] the gelcoat at the forward end of the fixed plexi windows, both port and starboard. I've read several threads about having to replace leaking windows, is this a common problem? And would it have required gelcoat repair, or is it possible there was some other kind of issue?-- there are some stress cracks in the gelcoat at either end of the teak trim at the top of the transom. Is this normal (eg, just an artifact of a "hard corner" in the mold), or does it indicate something potentially more serious?-- the top of the door to the forward v-berth looks like it has been shaved. In other boats, that can be a sign that the interior structure has "racked". but all the other doors and drawers seem to be fine. Might be nothing, or... not. Anyone ever heard of structural issues in these boats? Is there access to inspect the tabbing where the bulkheads are joined to the hull?-- the various sections of the cabin sole are screwed down. Is this normal, or an owner-add? I'm generally a big fan of being able to easily check the bilge (and inspect the keelbolts) without tools, unless there's a good reason to secure those sections.Thx,bruce

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