Re: Stus-List Raymarine ST 60

[Harvey Barth via CnC-List]

I will be replacing my ST 60 instruments: I have  two - speed/depth 
instruments, a speed/ depth transducer, and one - wind instrument. All work 
fine.
Contact me if you are interested.

I will include the wind transducer that I never used and only replaced out of 
abundant caution when I purchased the boat and before the mast went up. 
Harvey


Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 25, 2018, at 8:20 PM, James Bibb via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I’m changing mine out, ST-60’s, over the next week or so.
> 
> I can send them to you and you can pay me what you think they are worth.
> 
> 
> James Bibb
> SV Darwins Folly
> Juneau, AK 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Apr 25, 2018, at 2:16 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Does anyone have a Raymarine S60 or ST60+ wind display and/or masthead 
>> transducer they want to get rod of? Mine is acting erratic, and it's tough 
>> to sail at night without it.
>> 
>> Alan Bergen
>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>> Rose City YC
>> Portland, OR
>> 
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>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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> 
> 
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> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Fogged, Scratched Plexiglass - Good home test, now to try it on our companionway hatches...

[Harvey Barth via CnC-List]

Will this process work to remove the crazing and small cracks that appear on 
older hatches?
Harvey

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 12, 2017, at 9:35 AM, Larry via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Bruce
> You are doing it correctly. I have worked with “Plexiglass” since the early 
> 70’s.  However you only want to use the least grit paper to get the scratches 
> out, so as to remove the minimum amount of material. I usually start with 
> 1000 or 800 grit to determine if the scratches will come out. I then use 
> 1200, 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000, 4000, and 5000 grit before moving on to 
> polishing. Then you want to use a cloth that is safe for eyeglasses.  I have 
> done this many times on motorcycle windscreens and aircraft windscreens. I 
> did it ones on my boat. Now I just take plexiglass polish three times a year 
> to it.
> Good luck
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bruce 
> Whitmore via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2017 7:01 PM
> To: C List
> Cc: Bruce Whitmore
> Subject: Stus-List Fogged, Scratched Plexiglass - Good home test, now to try 
> it on our companionway hatches...
>  
> Hello all,
>  
> Our 37/40+ has tinted plexiglass sliding companionway hatches that look 
> fogged and lightly scratched all over from years of sun.  After reading here 
> and other places about potential ways of curing the issue, I ran a test here 
> at home.  I have a Ryobi Corner Cat, and grabbed a piece of scrap plexiglass. 
>  Starting with 360 wet/dry sandpaper, I wet sanded the nice new piece of 
> plexi until it looked like $#!+.  Then followed with 600, 1200 and 2000, then 
> went to buffing compound, and finally to McGuire's polish for headlights. 
>  
> Sure enough, the piece of plexiglass came out really nice & clear. 
>  
> So, I think I'll try it on the sliding hatchboards unless someone here 
> cautions me otherwise.
>  
> What say you wise folks?
>  
> Bruce Whitmore
> 
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
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> 
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Re: Stus-List : C 37 spinnaker for sale

[Harvey Barth via CnC-List]

I have a 0.5oz tri-radial North Sails spinnaker, in pristine like new 
condition,  for sale. 

Please contact me off line if interested. Located in Toronto
Harvey
hba...@rogers.com

Sent from my iPhone


> 
> 
> 
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Rudder collar "donut" removal

[Harvey Barth via CnC-List]

I removed mine by fabricating a box wrench made of 6" length of 4" diameter 
pipe (confirm size that fits over donut). Insert temporary bolts into donut and 
let them protrude. Cut slots in one end of pipe to fit over and engage the 
bolts. Have a 2' long bar welded across the top of the pipe. This should 
provide adequate leverage to unscrew the donut collar. Use temporary bolts as 
the box wrench may deform the threads. The original bolts can be reused to 
reinstall.
Harvey

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 20, 2016, at 12:25 AM, Chuck S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Wow!  You've done everything I would have tried but one.  Try beer.
> 
> Buy a 30 pack of Coors Light and have it iced down, in a cooler, at your 
> boat, and let it be known to the yard mechanics that that is the reward for 
> getting your rudder free.   I expect at least one mechanic will be over after 
> work and others may join to help him get it done for you.  If you can get the 
> guys interested, the worst that will happen is you will make a lot of friends 
> with the yard mechanics.  But I think someone will accept the challenge and 
> step up and prove himself. 
> 
> 
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> 
> From: "Patrick Davin via CnC-List" 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: "Patrick Davin" 
> Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2016 11:45:29 PM
> Subject: Stus-List Rudder collar "donut" removal
> 
> I have my boat hauled out now and am trying to drop the rudder. 
> 
> The stainless steel donut that holds the rudder up, above the thrust bearing 
> in the cockpit, is very much stuck. I removed the two set screws and am 
> attempting to unscrew (counterclockwise), with the rudder propped up (enough 
> that that delrin bearing under the donut is free spinning). 
> 
> This is the donut pictured on Wally's page: 
> http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/steering/bearing/sole/bs02.jpg
> http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/steering/bearing/sole/
> 
> He got it off with just an oil filter wrench + exhaust hose on past 
> occasions, and later with that strap wrench.  I've already applied far more 
> force than a strap wrench with no luck. :(
> 
> I had planned to have the yard (Seaview) help with this, but apparently they 
> have plenty of fiberglass guys but not enough mechanical guys, and are 
> backlogged on anything mechanical. So if I want this to go faster I can keep 
> trying to do it myself. And saving money by not having them bang away at it 
> for $105/hour is probably good anyway. Though honestly I would happily do 
> that now if they could get it loose. 
> 
> I know Frank of S/V Cool Change had a bear of a time with the set screws: 
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2007-March/009523.html   
> (but I guess the donut wasn't a problem?)
> 
> And I know another owner who used a huge pipe wrench with some padding, and 
> yard assistance, but ended up damaging it and needing to get a new one. 
> 
> Things I've tried: 
> - PB Blaster, every day for 4-5 days, around the top, into the set screw 
> holes, and around the bottom.
> - Loctite Freeze + Release
> - oil filter wrench with rubber pieces to grip
> - threading a bolt into the set screw holes and hammering on that - quickly 
> abandoned this because it started to bend the screws and I realized it would 
> strip the set screw holes. 
> - C clamps
> - Heat gun (I don't have a torch - however I don't think heat will be very 
> successful because the mated parts are both stainless steel)
> - Large hose clamp tightened around my rubber gripper ring and hammering on 
> the hose clamp screw. I really thought this was the genius idea that would 
> finally work. Nothing budged, even with heavy pounding. But the hose clamp 
> does the best job of pressing my rubber gripper onto the donut and had no 
> slippage. 
> 
> Is there anything I'm missing? Has anyone else had this hard a time getting 
> the donut off, or found anything else that worked? 
> 
> The Edson radial drive bolts are also seized, but I have some more things to 
> try there still, and as last resort it can be cut off and order a new one 
> ($500). 
> 
> If I can get the rudder out I might also consider changing the stuffing box, 
> because that is also seized (looks original and probably hasn't been adjusted 
> in 5 years). 
> 
> -Patrick
> 1984 C Landfall 38
> Violet Hour, Seattle, WA
> 
> 
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