Stus-List Re: Half Century Club

[Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List]

Caposhi C 35 mk 1 #54 1971.

On Wed., Jan. 25, 2023, 11:30 a.m. Robert Mazza via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> *Trillium IV*, Corvette #149 was built in 1970, so is now 53 years old
> and still going strong. ;-)
>
> Rob
>
> On Wed, Jan 25, 2023 at 10:21 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Coquina is 50 this year. Who else do we have at or past the half-century
>> mark?
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35 MK I*
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
>>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List If anyone is in the market for a 35 mk1

[Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List]

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-sailboat/london/c-c-35-mk1/1634427386

Shoot an email if you have any questions.

Cheers!
Jeff Helsdingen
Caposhi
C 35 mk1 #54

Stus-List Re: help with shift cable issue

[Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List]

First thing I would do is disconnect the cable from the transmission and
see how things work. Does that free up the cable? Is the lever difficult to
move by itself? Then move forward.

On Sat., Apr. 17, 2021, 1:37 p.m. General Gao via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am continuing with my work on the shift cable issue. To summarize, the
> shift cable suddenly could not shift the gearbox properly. Looking at the
> gearbox side, the cable conduit ends may have moved and caused the issue.
> I've verified the cable at the engine end did not change
>
> I took a couple of pictures at the control end of things:
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nXEiGVBoIcaEGtVxav6felcClgAVns2b/view?usp=sharing
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-Lji9SQ1EPGDig2bngtrdwHd4I0moIBa/view?usp=sharing
>
> I am thinking something got loose at the pedestal side, the conduit end
> bracket might got loose; however I could not find the screw that sets the
> distance of the conduit end from the control lever.
>
> Am I missing something?
>
> Regards,
>
> Bo
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Bilge pumps

[Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List]

Maybe the rudder post? I've had that with both my 27 and our 35

On Tue., Mar. 2, 2021, 10:57 a.m. Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> It's a mystery so far but I know it's salt and I know it's coming from aft.
>
> The yard said the dripless was fine but I'm thinking that's the culprit.
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
>
> On Tue, Mar 2, 2021 at 10:41 AM, Matthew via CnC-List
>  wrote:
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks -
> Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Racing fleets and getting sailors to participate

[Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List]

Take them to a local machine shop. They should have no problem either
turning the existing ones to get the wire groove out or making a new set
with "rounder" grooves.

On Sat, Jan 30, 2021 at 6:52 PM Jim Reinardy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Our single fleet club is organized as a social racing club to distinguish
> us from the two brick and mortar clubs in our bay.  Our tag line is
> “Serious Fun, not Serious Racing”.  We generally get about 45 boats ranging
> from true racing machines to 22 foot cruisers using volunteer committee
> boats from the fleet.
>
> Some of the things we do to keep things fun include the sliding PRHF as
> Bob describes.  In our version, the 1st, 2nd and 3rd place boats in each
> division lose 9, 6 and 3 points off their PHRF for the next week.  4th
> place stays the same and the rest of the fleet that raced gets an
> additional 2 points added.  This keeps anybody from running away with a
> division, believe me!  We also run a mix of spinnaker and Jib/Main only
> races with a time penalty for using a spinnaker to keep things even.  This
> keeps the more advanced boats interested, but also maintains some balance
> with boats that either don’t have a spinnaker or don’t want to fly it.
> Another provision is a guest skipper bonus, which is a half point deduction
> on the series score for any skipper that hops on a different boat for a
> race.  This has been great for new members that need a little mentoring.
>
> The club is very protective of our reputation for welcoming new racers and
> we have actually asked overly aggressive boats to find another fleet at
> times.  We also run classes on racing, rules, committee boat duties and
> even boat maintenance to help our members stay in the sport.  Our website
> at www.mastracing.org also has a stripped down, common sense version of
> the rules available that one of our members wrote a while ago.  That is
> required reading for our membership and might be something you could use
> for those starting out.
>
> In terms of why we race, when we started a big reason was to nudge us to
> use the boat at least once a week and stretch our comfort zone by going out
> in conditions that would not necessarily be attractive for a pleasure
> sail.  It’s evolved into a very social thing now, as over the years we have
> maneuvered our slip location to be near our fellow racers.  Pre-COVID, this
> resulted in some pretty impressive shared meals on the dock after the race
> and a general party atmosphere.  We race on Friday nights, which is also a
> factor in this.  On the whole, I think there is room for a lower stress
> racing series to try and lure more people into the sport and I would urge
> interested clubs to give it a try.
>
> Jim Reinardy
> C 30-2 “Firewater”
> Milwaukee, WI
>
> Get Outlook for iOS 
> --
> *From:* dwight veinot via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Saturday, January 30, 2021 3:29:33 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* dwight veinot 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Racing fleets and getting sailors to participate
>
> Sort of funny how all the egos go for the line i did it many times take
> him up no room to go up no protests nobody wants to go to protests. Fleet
> racing accidents happen. Then after the aggressive start line close packed
> maneuvers things spread out, crew loses focus and then another chance for
> collision at the first mark and so on and on and then maybe a bewildered
> and disgruntled crew afterwards talking about what went wrong. I am a
> dedicated cruiser now but i still love watching Americas Cup started
> following way back when Stars and Stripes and Dennis Connor was in the
> thick a lot of changes and new developments since then thats what i like
> and the presentations of races is so good nowadays its very exiting nothing
> at all like watching the grass grow or the paint dry and so very technical
> and experimental. Next races Prada Cup Final Luna Rossa vs Brittania feb
> 13-22
>
> On Sat, Jan 30, 2021 at 4:26 PM Bob Mann via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Video tape all starts from the committee boat and use these for review.
> Always surprising how far from the line boats are at the start, especially
> in the middle of the line.
>
> Our local group (multiple clubs in one organization) implemented
> golf-style handicapping last year. We call it Delta class.  Based on your
> result from last week your rating may change.  Unfortunately, I don't have
> more details on what they did but can put you in touch with someone.
>
> Bob Mann
> Detroit - DRYA
>
> On 01/30/2021 9:58 AM David Knecht via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>
> I noticed looking at Bill’s link about his spinnaker that his club has
> three racing fleets:  *Spinnaker, Family JAM and Jib & Main* .  I don’t
> know what those represent, but am curious.
>
> I am in charge of racing for our club this year (for the first time) and
> one of the things I am looking into is whether we can increase
> 

Re: Stus-List Parting an ‘89 30’ CNC

[Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List]

For the right price I'm interested in a dozen (or as many as there are) of
the over the toerail stantion bases.

On Sun., Jul. 19, 2020, 9:22 a.m. Joel Delamirande via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> What wrong with that boat to be in the dump
>
> On Fri, Jul 17, 2020 at 4:32 PM JP Mail via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I’m standing in the salvage yard.
>> All kinds of everything for
>> ZCC30148B989
>> King Salvage.
>> I live 10 Minutes away.
>> Motor is not seized. 3 GM  i think.
>> Jon
>> jon.peterpr...@gmail.com
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> --
> Joel Delamirande
> *www.jdroofing.ca *
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Need to replace forward hatch on 35 mkIII

[Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List]

or you can try their website:   https://www.atkinshoyle.com/

On Sun, Apr 26, 2020 at 9:27 PM Graham Collins via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Matthew
>
> Atkins & Hoyle make the direct replacement, but there is an alternative -
> I put on a low profile stainless hatch from these guys.  
> http://www.manshipmarine.com/low-profile-deck-hatch.html
>
> 
>
> I'll look to see if I have any pics.
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C 35-III #11
>
> On 2020-04-26 10:12 p.m., Matthew Schlanger via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Hello CnC list,
>
> I was wondering if anyone knew exactly what kind and where I can find a 
> replacement for my forward hatch on a 1983 C 35 mkIII.
>
> I am hoping I can just get a new hatch and use the existing frame, though I 
> assume it comes with a new frame as well just in case.
>
> I measured the outer dimensions of the flanges on the frame at 20 7/8” 
> square, the outer dimensions of the hatch at ~21 13/16 square, and the inner 
> distance between the hinges on the hatch at 14 1/16”.
>
> I thought this would use a Lewmar replacement but the dimensions don’t seem 
> to match.
>
> Thanks in advance.
> This list is great, I wish I had more time to read it.
>
> Matthew Schlanger
> The Office
> 1983 C 35 mkIII
> Nyack NY
> ___
>
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> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Painted/Awlgrip Hulls

[Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List]

Previous owner had Caposhi awl gripped in 2006. Still looks good. There is
some deck spots that need to be touched up due to previous owner neglect.

Jeff
Caposhi C 35 mk 1 #54
Port Stanley On.

On Fri., Mar. 6, 2020, 1:46 p.m. Richard Bush via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> This is a request for how many listers have painted or awlgripped hulls;
> if so, what color, how well are they holding up, are you happy with the
> work; are there issues with maintenance, any other pertinent info..cots,
> etcthanks!
>
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;
>
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
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>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List JAM vs Spinnaker Racing

[Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List]

Pulls the top of the mast forward when going downwind with the kite up. Bit
surprised it does anything with a sturdy mast like the one on a 35-1.

Jeff

On Thu., Dec. 19, 2019, 11:27 a.m. Randy Stafford via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey Dennis - what’s a defraculator?  :)
>
> Cheers,
> Randy
>
> On Dec 18, 2019, at 8:48 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Yes, spinnakers can nearly double your racing costs.  Years ago, at the
> height of Touche's racing program, we had 0.6, 0.75 and 1.5 oz chutes, two
> part high tech Dyneema/StaSet spin sheets, Harken carbo-ratchet tweakers
> (twings), custom chute launch bags, double pole downhaul(goes down each
> side of cabin and is trimmed in cockpit), a spinnaker halyard parking
> cleat, a "defraculator" (don't ask), light air spin sheets and probably a
> few more boat bucks of stuff I can't recall.  I'm guessing all that adds up
> to somewhere around 10 big boat bucks.
>
> You don't need to dive in that deep.  A used chute, a few blocks and some
> old sheets will start you off just fine.
>
> Yes, you can race spin on a budget and still have a lot of fun.  The best
> way to experiennce spin racing and learn is on someone else's boat.  That's
> what I did.  I spent several years crewing before I bought Touche' and
> started my own racing program.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Wed, Dec 18, 2019, 7:37 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> You are correct regarding expense--spin racing just requires more of
>> everything--crew, boat, gear, sails, food, drinks, etc.
>>
>> I like to race in what my crew prefers and also in the most competitive
>> arena. Locally at least, the JAM fleet is not competitive enough for
>> us--except for those whose high ratings in light air make it impossible to
>> race fairly against them.
>>
>> Of course I like to win but more importantly I want race in a competitive
>> fleet, even if I come in last but close to my competitors. Winning most of
>> the time in our local JAM fleet is not as much fun as busting our
>> collective as...es to come in last among the best local racers.
>>
>>
> That's my story and I am sticking to it!!
>>
>> Charlie Nelson
>> Water Phantom
>> C 36 XL/kcb
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>
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>
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>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Blue Seas Battery Switch Failure

[Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List]

My first thought is to pick up the phone and call rather than waiting for a
response to your email. They aren't quick with that. Also someone can hear
the tone in your voice as well.

Jeff
Caposhi
C 35 mk1 #54
Port Stanley ON.

On Mon., Nov. 18, 2019, 2:13 p.m. Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yesterday, my Blue Sea DC switch failed in a bad way — essentially the
> plastic broke and the guts of the switch come apart causing a flaky
> connection.   Seems this is a common problem base on this forum:
>
>
> https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/853223-blue-sea-battery-switch-failure.html
>
> I emailed Blue Sea and await their response.
>
> Four years ago I replaced the original old Perko switch when I did a
> battery upgrade/rewire/shunt+monitor.  Now I’m worried about simply
> replacing with the same one if it’s prone to failure.
>
> Luckily this happened at the dock but it could have been really bad if I’d
> needed power in a hurry.
>
> I’m now thinking I’ll wire up a “backup” bypass directly to the starter in
> case this happens again or for jump starting, etc.
>
> Any thoughts on this from the collective wisdoms of this list?
>
> Thanks,
>   Jeremy
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
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Re: Stus-List Toe Rail Resealing

[Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List]

I wouldn't. If you have leaks I would recommend just removing the bolts one
at a time and embedding them with butyl tape.

Jeff
Caposhi
'71 C 35 mk 1

On Tue., Nov. 5, 2019, 7:53 a.m. James Hesketh via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm getting ready to pull the toe rail on my '78 26 to reseal, and will
> also do the same with the bow fitting once the rails are refitted and I can
> tie off the headsail halyard to it.
>
> Anyone have any words of wisdom before I begin?
>
> TIA
> Jim Hesketh
> Whisper C 26
> Miami, FL
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Practice Spinnaker

[Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List]

If that's for a mk1 35 I have a couple. Send me a mail at
onemorejeff(at)gmail(dot)com

Jeff

On Mon., Oct. 7, 2019, 1:52 p.m. Rod Stright via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Just wondering if anyone out there has a used spinnaker that they are not
> using any longer.  Looking for a spinnaker with a luff of approx. 46’ and a
> mid-girth and/or foot of 26.5’.  Dimensions not critical as it will be only
> used for practice.
>
>
>
> Rod Stright
>
> Halifax, NS
>
>
> --
> [image: Avast logo] 
>
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> www.avast.com 
>
> <#m_-3393500968997921098_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
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>
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>
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Re: Stus-List C Lister Roll Call

[Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List]

Jeff & Jill Helsdingen / Caposhi / C 35 mk1 / 24141 /
onemorej...@gmail.com  / Port Stanley ON

On Thu., Oct. 3, 2019, 4:53 p.m. Edd Schillay via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> In my spare time, I’m going to start working on an email list / bulletin
> board / photo archive / information center website for C Owners, that
> will act as a supplement and perhaps one day, *only* when Stu says he’s
> no longer interested in continuing on, act as a replacement to the service
> we are using now.
>
> I’d like to start compiling a database of C Owners. When you have a
> moment, please respond to this email (either to the whole list or by direct
> email to me) with the following information:
>
> Name / Boat name / C Model / C Year / Sail number / Email Address /
> Home Port
>
> For example:
> Edd Schillay / Starship Enterprise / C 37/40+ / 1990 / NCC-1701-B /
> e...@schillay.com / Venice Island, FL
>
> Thanks to all.
>
> And for those of you up north who are reviewing/signing their winter
> haul-out and storage contracts, I can now say, “Nah, Nah. Na-Na Nah!"
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice, FL
>
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Smelly head

[Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List]

Even the good read expensive hose smells bad after a while. If yours is
still original it's probably due to be replaced. Possibly the tank as well.
I've heard it is better to use fresh water from the head faucet to flush
rather than sea water too. What we did to get rid of the smells was to yank
all of it out and go with a composting head. So far so good. Good luck.

Jeff

On Wed., Oct. 2, 2019, 2:52 p.m. Blair Clark via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I beg patience as i am hoping there is some quick troubleshooting hints
> that can be provided.
>
> Purchased a 1990 C 34 +. really really happy with boat and currently
> working  through some smaller items to get her up to speed.
>
> one of these involves the holding tank. My jabsco manual toilet exits
> through a Y valve to sea or to  holding tank.  No external macerator system
> is in place.. Even when Y valve set to sea I am having a smell go away and
> then return to the head area.
>
> Holding tank was pumped before transport after purchase and appears close
> to empty.
>
> Steps to date:
>
> 1) Had a group out on the boat
> 2) next day head ines appeared blocked as there was back pressure on handle
> 3) removed lines got shop vacuum cleared lines and flushed with vinegar
> and water
> 4 thought everything would be good
> 5) Noticed smell in head
> 2) noticed back flow of liquid into bowl
> 3) again fought with stiff lines and replaced joker valve
> 3) back flow and  Smell went away
> 4) a few days later after not using boat the smell came back but not from
> toilet bowl
> 5) noticed that when I opened door under vanity sink bowl in the space
> that houses the holding tank that the smell was more extreme
> 6) thought of taking tank out to inspect during winter but have no idea
> how to access it to do so.
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions as to troubleshoot tsmell, holding tank
> or lines and or remove tank?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Blair
> C 34+
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Re: Stus-List Interesting electrical problem

[Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List]

Personally I usually find that strange electrical problems especially on
boats are grounding problems. Yours sounds very peculiar though. From an
isolating batteries point of view i would consider adding a Victron battery
isolator. That would get your house and start batteries apart if the
problem was coming from the alternator. I think I would also consider
adding fusing on the ground side of the vhf etc. Not sure.

Jeff

On Thu., Sep. 26, 2019, 3:26 p.m. Ian Matthew via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have been following the list for many years and I enjoy reading the
> wisdom of this group.  I have an interesting problem and seek your advice.
>
> I have an very intermittent electrical problem (in fact it has only
> happened twice in the last 7 years.  In both cases it has resulted in
> electrical / electronic components becoming 'blown out' with all fuses
> inline remaining good.
>
> The first time I suddenly lost my AM/FM radio and ALL my navigation
> lights. The engine also stopped as I had no power to drive the electric
> fuel pump. This happened when motoring back home at night after a long
> race.  Fortunately there was wind and a hand-held VHF and a powerful
> spotlight on the sails allowed us to be seen by commercial traffic.
> Afterwards, I checked - ALL the incandescent bulbs that were on had blown,
> but the fuses were OK.  The radio had internal circuit board components
> blown but again the inline fuses (there are 2) were OK.  In the case of the
> fuel pump, this had to be replaced.
> Thinking this may have been a spike from the alternator, I replaced the
> alternator.
>
> Last week (3 years later), motoring back in the dark I had a similar
> problem, but this time only my VHF radio 'blew'.  Again the inline fuse was
> good.  The navigation lights have been replaced with LED lights and the
> AM/FM radio was off.
>
> I often motor after long races and this has only happened twice!
>
> Does anyone have any ideas as to what may have caused this.  I am an
> engineer so can diagnose most things but this has baffled me.
>
> I am about to upgrade my VHF radio for one with DSC and internal GPS and
> to add some wind instruments.  (I have a Raymarine knotmeter/depth meter
> combined, and a EV-100 autopilot.)  I want to separate my electronics
> electrical input and have considered putting them on an isolated battery,
> but charging is a problem.  Is there some circuit protector I can put in
> place to stop this happening again?
>
> All suggestions welcomed.
>
> BTW - for those of you with 29 mk 1's - you can race them competitively in
> strong winds (as is usual on San Francisco Bay) - keep the boat flat and
> have a really good crew!
>
>
> --
> Ian Matthew
> "Siento el Viento"  C 29-1
> San Francisco Bay
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Flooded Batteries

[Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List]

I have a 40w panel that keeps the batteries topped off too.

Jeff


On Mon., Sep. 23, 2019, 9:57 a.m. nausetbeach--- via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Rob,
>
>
>
> What is your winter procedure to get such long life?  I have been removing
> my 3 flooded batteries and storing them in my garage, giving them a monthly
> charge “top up.”  Would much rather not carry them down and then back up
> the ladder comes spring.  My boat is 1 hour away in the winter so do not
> get there that often to give them a regular charge.
>
>
>
> Do you charge them on regular visits to the boat?  Do you disconnect them
> and let them sit, with very slow self discharge during the colder months?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brian
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Robert
> Abbott via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, September 23, 2019 8:47 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Robert Abbott 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Flooded Batteries
>
>
>
> I have two Group 27's Great Northern deep cycle batteries that have just
> seen their 11th season of use.leave them on the boat over the winter.
>
> Time to get new ones but they just keep on going.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32, #277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 9/22/2019 10:28 PM, Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Anyone still use flooded batteries.  Looking to replace 3 weak batteries
> that are causing engine startng issues.
>
>
>
> Are the AGM or Gel batteries worth the $$ s.
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
> Peter Cowenhoven
>
> Branford CT
>
> Landfall 35
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
>
>
>
> ___
>
>
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Bilge cleaner

[Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List]

Simple Green is pretty effective too. Elbow Grease is going to be the most
effective option though.

Jeff Helsdingen
C 35 mk 1
Caposhi #54
Port Stanley On


On Mon., Sep. 16, 2019, 4:26 p.m. David Risch via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dawn…cuts the grease and then a bit of a soak with a bit of bleach.
> Then rinse like heck.
>
> *David F. Risch *
>
> *(401) 419-4650*
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Fred
> Hazzard via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, September 16, 2019 3:31 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Fred Hazzard 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Bilge cleaner
>
>
>
> What do listers like to clean and deodorize their bilge?  Mine needs a
> major clean and freshening.
>
>
>
> Fred Hazzard
>
> S/V Fury
>
> C 44
>
> Portland Or
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Spinnaker for C 35 Mk I

[Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List]

I have a couple and am in London On so relatively close. Send me an email
and we can discuss.

Jeff

On Tue., Sep. 3, 2019, 10:25 a.m. Glen Eddie via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello everyone,
>
>
>
> The 47 year old delivery spinnaker I bought several years ago (I believe
> from Dennis) finally powdered in an epic explosion last Wednesday.  There
> is not enough sail tape in the world to fix it.
>
>
>
> Does anyone have a used spinnaker for a C 35 Mk I that they want to
> sell.  My crew is not ready (nor is my wife) for a new spinnaker purchase.
>
>
>
> Happy to discuss offline.  Thanks.
>
>
> --
>
> *Glen Eddie*
>
> Tel:  416-777-5357
>
> Fax:  1-888-812-2557
>
> ged...@torkinmanes.com
>
> VCard 
>
> *Torkin Manes LLP*
> Barristers & Solicitors
>
> 151 Yonge Street, Suite 1500
> Toronto ON M5C 2W7
> torkinmanes.com 
>
> An international member of Ally Law
>
> This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named
> recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential
> and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received
> this message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email
> message. Thank you.
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Barber haulers and whisker poles

[Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List]

Thanks Dennis, that answered some questions. We were trying to figure out
who or why there were pieces of toe rail there. Partially confusing because
a previous owner also added job track and a different previous owner had a
deck job done but didn't remove them. $75, what a deal..

Jeff
Caposhi
C 35 mk1 #54

On Tue., Aug. 20, 2019, 7:45 p.m. Dennis C. via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> First, if you are racing, having the whisker pole on the same side as the
> boom may be prohibited in certain jurisdictions.
>
> Barber hauling is a complicated configuration.  Basically, you are setting
> a triangle using two sheets to change location of the clew of the genoa.
> Generally, "barber haulers" can be set to move the clew inboard or outboard
> or forward (downward).  Inhauls or inhaulers can be used to move the clew
> inboard to decrease the sheeting angles.
>
> Rather than get too deep into all of that, on Touche' we simply use what
> we call the "outboard sheet".  Touche' has an inboard genoa track with line
> adjustable genoa cars, as we steer more off the wind and ease the genoa
> sheet, we move the car forward to keep the leech from twisting off.  Our
> trigger to rig the outboard sheet is when the genoa sheet is eased enough
> that it begins to contact the upper lifeline.  At that point we attach a
> snatch block to the toe rail slightly FORWARD of directly below where the
> genoa sheet crosses the toe rail.
>
> The outboard sheet has a snap shackle which we clip into the clew ring or
> the soft shackle on the clew of the genoa.  The tail is run to a secondary
> winch.  We can control the inboard/outboard location of the clew by
> proportionally tensioning the primary sheet and the outboard sheet.
> However, more often than not, we simply trim exclusively on the outboard
> sheet.
>
> Our old C's like to "breathe".  Opening the slot allows that.  Also,
> moving the lead forward as the sheet is eased keeps the leech from twisting
> off and dumping power.  Touche' loves reaching with the outboard sheet.  In
> fact, in one distance race we lost 1st place by 20 seconds.  In retrospect,
> I think it's because we didn't rig the outboard sheet or move the car
> forward on a long reaching leg.
>
> One thing to keep in mind is that many of the older boats did not come
> with an inboard track.  Touche' had short pieces of toe rail on the deck
> forward of the primary winches.  It was listed as an option on the original
> order as  "Inside fairleads rails" $75.  So, rigging an outboard sheet may
> simply be returning to an original configuration.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Tue, Aug 20, 2019 at 2:49 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I have been reading about Barber Haulers to help with reaching by getting
>> the clew further outboard and keeping the leech from twisting off.  I was
>> thinking of a snatch block on the toe rail and a line snap shackled to the
>> clew attachment point to accomplish this.  However, I have also seen people
>> using their whisker pole on the leeward side to hold the genoa clew
>> outboard and up.  Has anyone compared these options?  The pole seems more
>> of a hassle, but should be more effective.  Dave
>>
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C 34+
>> New London, CT
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2GMF losing power under load/RPMs drop

[Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List]

Possibly the exhaust mixing elbow is getting clogged up?

On Sat, Aug 17, 2019 at 9:20 PM Eugene Fodor via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yeah, unfortunately that doesn't help, in forward gear I'm not even
> consistently hitting 2800 (more like 25-26). I've been able to get up to
> 3600 so something is definitely wrong and has changed for the worse. Also,
> prop and shaft look fine. I dove the boat while we were out and it all
> checks out. My boat hits hull speed around 28-29 in calm water.
>
> Gene Fodor
> s/v Hawk
> C 29 mk 2
>
> On Sat, Aug 17, 2019 at 7:28 PM Robert Boyer  wrote:
>
>> While this may not help you with your diesel issue, in the 36 years that
>> I have owned my boat, I have never even tried to achieve RPMs above about
>> 2800.  I can achieve hull speed at 2600 RPMs and I generally cruise at 2400
>> RPM.
>>
>> Bob Boyer
>> s/v Rainy Days
>> C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
>> (Presently in Baltimore for the summer)
>> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Electrical Advice

[Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List]

I would imagine it would also be prudent to check the connection of all the
ring terminals on both the power and ground circuits from the battery
through the battery switch and to the starter.  Since it's a "new" problem
I wouldn't immediately think that wire sizing might be a problem as well
but "original" cabling that has had lots of extra things added can suddenly
become undersized quickly too.

Jeff Helsdingen
Caposhi
C 35 mk 1 #54
Port Stanley On.

On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 2:14 PM Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Agreed, sounds like a bad ground.  Voltage is one thing; but enough
> current to crank is another, and definitely something that will be
> adversely affected by bad ground continuity.
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
> On Aug 13, 2019, at 12:39 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Clean all the ground connections.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Tue, Aug 13, 2019 at 12:26 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello listers,  I would appreciate any advice you might have on my
>> electrical issue du jour.
>>
>> Mine is a C 33 MK II and I have a Link 20 battery monitoring system.
>> Bank 1 (house) is 4 Trojan T-105 (225 AH) 6V  deep cycles about 5 years
>> old.  Bank 2 is a 12V starter battery dated 2005.  I look after my
>> batteries pretty well and the system seemed to be operating normally.  I
>> have a True Charge 40 battery charger.   One morning after several days out
>> sailing, drinking lots of cold beer from the fridge and lots of music
>> playing) and running the engine very little, the engine would not start.
>> Starter turned slow, felt like no battery power.  I had the Master Switch
>> on 1 so I turned the switch to Battery 2 at which point all 12V electrical
>> activity on the boat stopped working altogether.  Prior to switching to Bat
>> 2, the Link 20 showed my starter battery at 12.4V with estimated time on
>> battery remaining at 225 hours.  I put a portable battery pack onto my
>> starter battery and it read 12.4 V from the battery.  However, powering up
>> the battery pack and connecting to my starter battery allowed me to start
>> the engine.
>>
>> I went back to harbour and replaced my starter battery with a brand new
>> 1000 cranking amps 12V battery.  I charged by shore power overnight then
>> left for a few more days on the water.
>>
>> Now, the current circumstance is this.
>> When connected to shore power and Main Switch set to Bat 1,  I see normal
>> charging voltages to both battery banks.
>> When under engine and Main Switch set to ALL, I see normal charging to
>> both batteries.
>> After sitting overnight on anchor, I see both Bank 1 and Bank 2 are
>> resting at about 12.5 V.  Both banks show plenty of reserve on the Link
>> 20.  When I try to start the engine it feels again like I have low battery
>> power.  The engine barely turns when I set the Main Switch to either Bat 1
>> or ALL and won't start.  If I change the switch to Bat 2, all 12V
>> electrical activity on the boat instantly stops.  If I put the portable
>> battery pack onto my starter battery with the switch in the ALL position,
>> the engine will go however, it still feels like the starter is turning too
>> slowly.
>>
>> I'm looking for a single cause to explain all this as up til now, the
>> system has functioned well for the 10 years I've owned the boat.  I would
>> appreciate any suggestions
>>
>> Wade
>> Oh Boy, C 33 MK II
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Toilets

[Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List]

We installed one this spring. Haven't really used it yet but have used the
space where the holding tank was.

On Sun., Jul. 7, 2019, 12:09 p.m. Glenn Henderson via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Have any of you had experience with Composting toilets?
>
> Glenn Henderson
> C 41
> WeGo
>
> On Sun, Jul 7, 2019 at 12:00 PM  wrote:
>
>> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>
>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>> cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
>>
>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>> cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>>
>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>> Today's Topics:
>>
>>1.  C spinnakers for sale (Rich)
>>2. Re:  Voltage / Amp Hours (Josh Muckley)
>>3.  Toilet Replacement (Raymond Macklin)
>>4. Re:  Toilet Replacement (Neil E. Andersen)
>>
>>
>>
>> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: Rich 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Cc:
>> Bcc:
>> Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2019 21:05:41 -0400
>> Subject: Stus-List C spinnakers for sale
>> I have a great 2014 North Sails S2 Airmax 600 all purpose spinnaker that
>> needs a new home. I will also throw in an old spinnaker that came with the
>> boat that is a great heavy air chute. It probably came with the boat in
>> 1988 but never used. It was still crisp when I got my boat in 2011. Anyway,
>> we converted to asym 2 years ago so have no more use for them. 2 great
>> sails. You won’t be disappointed. Make an offer!
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> Richard Spitzenberger  CPA
>> R JMS
>> C 35-3
>> Phone 631-331-3140
>> r...@spitzenbergercpa.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -- Forwarded message --
>> From: Josh Muckley 
>> To: "C List" , ocha...@gmail.com
>> Cc:
>> Bcc:
>> Date: Sat, 6 Jul 2019 21:49:11 -0400
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List Voltage / Amp Hours
>> Olivier,
>>
>> It sounds like you are using solar to charge? Under this situation you
>> would have charge current at high noon.  While charging (with or without
>> any other loads) the battery is nowhere near full charged if it is reading
>> 14.01v.  While charging, the very lowest voltage reading which you could
>> even halfway consider full would be 14.4v which is kinda common for auto
>> alternators and some bench type chargers.  More likely you haven't come
>> close to full charge until 14.6v or 14.7v but as discussed previously this
>> is just the end of the bulk charge phase and represents only ~80%.  You
>> really need a measure of the charge current once 14.7v is reached to know
>> better where you are between 80% and 100%.
>>
>> Josh Muckley
>> S/V Sea Hawk
>> 1989 C 37+
>> Solomons, MD
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Jul 5, 2019, 2:37 PM Olivier Chatot via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Edd,
>>>
>>> I agree with Marek and Gary about the voltage reading not being a
>>> reliable indication of the state of charge. Here's an example from my boat.
>>> At noon my battery bank is normally back to full charge and the voltmeter
>>> shows 14.01V, cool. A second later the fridge starts and the voltage drops
>>> to close to 13V.
>>>
>>> Best,
>>> Olivier
>>>
>>> On Fri, Jul 5, 2019, 13:46 Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Edd,
 to add to what Gary said...

 any measurement of the remaining capacity of the battery bank is
 tricky, because it depends on how accurate your in- and out- meters are,
 what the actual (current) total battery bank capacity is (it changes over
 time, never up) and at what SoC (state of charge) you started the
 measurements.

 I assume that your 450 Ah is a nominal capacity, but you don’t know how
 much of that is left.

 The 6 A you mention, is it 6 A over several hours (let’s say 3), i.e. 6
 A times “several (3)” hours = ~18 Ah or just 6 Ah? However, on a 450 Ah
 battery bank, even 20 Ah is just under 5%, so if you started with 100% SoC
 you should be at 95% (if it was 6 Ah, the SoC should be 98.5%).

 As Gary mentioned, re-synchronisation is a must.

 The voltage you are seeing depends heavily on what is using the battery
 at the given time (as you check it). I can almost guarantee that if you
 were watching the monitor at the time of starting the motor, the voltage
 meter would show some number much lower than 12 V (even if the SoC was
 almost 100%).

 I am not sure if it helped you much, though

 Marek
 1994 C270 Legato
 Ottawa, ON

 *From:* Gary Russell via CnC-List
 *Sent:* Friday, July 5, 2019 13:08
 *To:* C List
 *Cc:* Gary Russell
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Voltage / Amp Hours

 Hi Edd,
 The battery voltage is only an indication of the state of 

Re: Stus-List Diesel engine fire?

[Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List]

I've installed alarms, just not on our boat yet. Just a float switch
high in the bilge run to a buzzer/light at the panel. I've used these:
https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=680786

On Sun, Jun 2, 2019 at 8:42 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I had an insurance survey done recently and the surveyor made several
> recommendations that were surprsing to me and which the insurance company
> is now expecting to be done:
>
> 1.Install a fire port on the engine compartment and a no residue
> extinguisher nearby.  I have never heard of this and the purchase survey
> done a few years early did not mention it.  It is not terribly expensive,
> but I can’t find a reasonable place to install the fire port.  One of the
> reasons I made sure to get a diesel engine was I thought that fire was not
> a significant risk with diesel fuel.  Does anyone else have this on their
> boat and is this a worthwhile safety upgrade?
>
> 2.  Install a high water alarm.  This seems to me to be overkill given the
> size of the boat and the fact that it is pretty much impossible to be
> trapped below water line in the event of a serious leak.  I also have an
> automatic bilge pump switch, so that would alert me if water were coming up
> to the floor boards.  Has anyone else installed an alarm?
>
> Thanks- Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List C 35-1 mast step

[Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List]

Looking for advise/photos/instruction on doing a mast step replacement.
Have searched and looked at some previous posts just seeing if there's any
more ideas out there. Also have a small leak around our rudder post, any
ideas as to what can be done to remedy that?

Thanks,
Jeff Helsdingen
Caposhi
1972 C 35-1 #54
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Re: Stus-List C as offshore boat?

[Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List]

According to stories from the previous owner my 35-1 sailed across the
Atlantic and back with either the first or second owner.

On Wed, Apr 24, 2019, 3:06 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks, Dave.
>
> I think there is probably a big difference between going down the Pacific
> coast to Mexico, and going offshore to Hawaii or the South Pacific, mainly
> in that the former is limited to 3-5 days offshore between safe ports, vs
> 20+ days for the latter, meaning weather windows are easier to hit. At this
> early stage, I really don't know if we'll go offshore, but if things go
> well, I'd like to go down the coast to Mexico at least, without having to
> search for another boat. If I already had enough experience, I'd probably
> just fly to California and find a boat there, then sail it to Mexico, and
> have the advantage of 10x as many boats to choose from. But I want to sail
> our local waters first, something I've wanted to do since I was a kid. I
> grew up around powerboats and fishing boats, and always looking longingly
> at the sailboats as I endured the drone and smell of the engine...
>
> Your accounting of your purchase is quite interesting; thanks. Does that
> include moorage/storage, insurance, etc.? If so, that is very good value.
> What do you think she would sell for today? If we had done this a few years
> ago when I was still working, I would just spend the money on a nicer boat,
> or not worry about fixing it up. But being only a few months into
> retirement, and with my wife still working but soon to retire also, the
> uncertainty of our real living expenses going forward are a significant
> factor. Moorage is at least $4K/year here, unless we can join a club, or
> put it on a mooring buoy, but winter storms are an issue with a buoy. Lots
> of spare parts on the beaches this winter from all the boats washed
> ashore...
>
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 24, 2019 at 9:45 AM Dave Godwin  wrote:
>
>> Shawn,
>>
>> Been watching your rumination on buying that 35-II.
>>
>> I’ve delivered a C 34 from Fort Lauderdale to Port Royal, Jamaica, no
>> stops. It was fine for that but all we had to deal with was constant
>> headwinds for days on end.
>>
>> I’m flying into Ponta Delgada, Azores on May 4 to assist my friend on the
>> final leg home to Gosport, England from Antigua. They just spent 48 hours
>> in Force 7 conditions mid-Atlantic. I would not have wanted to be in my
>> boat in those conditions. His boat is an Oyster 485. Big difference.
>>
>> I consider my boat to be a good coastal cruiser. I’d go to Bermuda with
>> (hopefully) a good weather window. IMO, C’s are quite strong but have
>> their limits if extended offshore passage making is the desire.
>>
>> Of course, the French regularly pile entire families on Beneteaus and
>> cross oceans just fine.  ;-)
>>
>> Regards,
>> Dave Godwin
>> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>>
>> P.S. Back to your purchase decision thread. We bought our boat in 1997
>> as a bank repo. The description of the 35-II sounds much better compared to
>> the condition of our boat when we purchased it. One thing to consider is
>> the average cost to own over time. Despite replacing/rebuilding or adding
>> 1) engine rebuild, 2) all wiring, 3) plumbing, 4) cushions, 5) roller
>> furling, 6) sails, 7) electronics, 8) below deck autopilot, 9) stove, 10)
>> distribution panel, 11) windlass, 12) fixed ports (2x), 13) opening ports
>> (2x), 14) cabin sole (2x), 15) Harken self-tailing deck winches (2x), 16)
>> Harken mainsheet traveler system (2x), 17) all new rod and running rigging,
>> well, I’ll stop there. No, wait. Completel Awlcraft paint job, hull and
>> topsides. Whew!
>>
>> But here’s the deal; I keep detailed records as part of my rebuild
>> “hobby” and the yearly average costs over time is $7,000.00 U.S. Includes
>> everything with the exception of the $25,000 that we paid for it.
>>
>> I will be interested in your decision. Good luck!
>>
>> On Apr 24, 2019, at 11:21 AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> I'm going to switch things up a bit from the gloomy topic of my current
>> boat purchase: how many of you have taken your C offshore, and if so,
>> which boat, where to, and how did it manage the conditions? If you have not
>> gone offshore, what are the worst conditions you've experienced in a C,
>> and how would the performance of the boat in these conditions make you feel
>> about taking it offshore?
>>
>> One of the very first boats we looked at was a Westsail 32 (don't laugh),
>> partly because they are proven world cruisers, and the boat has been from
>> BC to NZ and back. But with our fickle air in the summer here, a good light
>> air boat seems like a better choice, but I also want something that can
>> take a beating without worrying about our safety.
>>
>> --
>> Shawn Wright
>> shawngwri...@gmail.com
>> 

Re: Stus-List 35-2 headliner treatment; chainplate inspection

[Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List]

Bulkheads and chainplates are visible behind the sliders.

On Wed, Apr 10, 2019, 11:37 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We are considering a '74 35-2 which has had quite a number of holes
> drilled through the interior headliner, for the purpose of through-bolting
> (and apparently epoxy filling/drilling, but not confirmed by me) various
> hardware, including replacement stainless grab rails. In some areas, 4-8"
> circular holes were cut, and white acrylic panels similar to the factory
> panels were added, which look ok. For the grab rails, there is just a
> series of 1" holes. There are also a few places where access was cut for
> wiring. As a result, the headliner is not too tidy, with a bit of a swiss
> cheese look.
>
> What I am wondering is whether anyone has successfully made a headliner
> cover from vinyl, fabric or semi rigid material like I've seen done on
> other boats. My first thought is that the complex curves in the cabin top
> would make this very difficult to do well. I have seen one example where
> the white covers were in teak veneer (maybe this was an option?) but I
> think that might just make them stand out more.
>
> Also, something more critical than headliners - what do I look for when
> inspecting the chainplates on the 35-2? If I get a chance on this boat, I
> will need to look closely at them. Are they visible behind the sliding
> storage doors, or do I need to take things apart to fully inspect?
>
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List C 34 cockpit

[Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List]

How funny would it be to take a PHRF hit for windows.

On Tue, Jan 8, 2019, 3:56 PM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

> I replaced the windows on my 42 this past summer.  Looks much faster –
> worth at least a quarter knot.
>
> *From:* dwight veinot via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 08, 2019 3:32 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* dwight veinot 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C 34 cockpit
>
> Go fast windows. Thats a hooter
>
> On Tue, Jan 8, 2019 at 3:43 PM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> By way of more explanation, I had a 1978 34, and the windows were the
>> old-fashioned oval type (look at a mid-70s C 33-1).  There is a 1980 34
>> in my club, and the windows are the newer “go fast” style, so I know the
>> windows changed in appearance between 1978 and 1980.  If your 1979 boat has
>> the old-fashioned windows, I would be confident that the cockpit is the
>> same as the 1978 boat.  If your 1979 boat has the newer windows, you better
>> check with Rob or somebody knowledgeable to determine if there were any
>> cockpit configuration changes.  I’m guessing not, but you never know.
>>
>> *From:* Brian Chambers via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, January 08, 2019 2:30 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Brian Chambers 
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List C 34 cockpit
>>
>> Thanks for the reply. My research this far makes me believe they are
>> alike.
>>
>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
>> 
>>
>> On Tue, Jan 8, 2019 at 1:12 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List
>>  wrote:
>> ___
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> Sent from Gmail Mobile
>
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Re: Stus-List Water Storage on 35-II & Drill Bit Set question

[Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List]

The drill bit set is from Norseman. You can get them off Amazon.

On Tue, Nov 27, 2018, 10:25 PM Lee Youngblood via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> I have a sweet C 35-II, and I’m storing a few gallons of water in the
> stern of the boat, on both sides of the vertical bulkhead behind the helm.
> It’s not for drinking, and I don’t know how it got there, but when I pull
> the cap for the vent I can see it, and vacuumed out about 3 gallons today.
> OK I live in Seattle and it’s been raining, yea a lot, but really, how much
> rain comes through a few screw holes on the stern plate behind the
> cockpit?  I only looked because my bilge pump was going off for about 20
> sec. every 20 min.  Water was trickling down below the engine, and s couple
> years ago, I tossed the boat really well, and we flushed out the
> construction insulation crumbs under the icebox into the pots and pans
> under the stove - that was a mess and another story.  Anyway, does anyone
> else find water in the stern behind the helm position?  Have you looked
> recently?
>
> On another note, I thought I remembered a recommendation for a good
> quality drill bit set for drilling metal, round plastic storage, not the
> usual rusting metal boxes.  Anyone remember the make or link?
>
> Thanks, Lee
>
>
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