Re: Stus-List Docking Seamanship
A variation on the spring line is to run a long line attached at the toe rail next to the sidestay, outside the lifeline, with bitter end/tail running back into the cockpit. Tail remains loose in the cockpit for the approach. Stay at wheel and throw the line (holding onto tail) beyond the dock cleat so as you pass a bight forms around the cleat. You'll have a loop that runs from amidships, around dock cleat, back into cockpit. Wrap tail around cockpit winch as you pass the dock cleat. Can pull in or ease if needed to gently slow the boat. With boat stopped leave boat in forward idle with wheel to port and it stays snug against the dock. Acts just like a spring line but is easier to get it around the dock cleat. Reverse the process to leave the dock. With boat in forward idle and spring attached, remove other dock lines, get into boat. Then with boat in nuetral pop the bight off the dock cleat and recover the line. Tom O'KeeffeBridie Mae29-2 1984Little Neck Bay, NY Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android___ Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Re: Stus-List Bilge Pump for C&C 29-2
Sorry my parts list didn't come through on my reply. I bought a Flojet 4125 series bilge pump corrosion resistant model (Defender #500662) and Water Witch switch. Tom C&C 29-2 Bridie Mae ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Bilge Pump for C&C 29-2
This is what I bought from Defender but haven't gotten to install any of it yet. I hadn't considered (was not aware of) the run-dry impeller type pumps. Tom Bridie MaeC&C 29-2 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Bilge Pump for C&C 29-2
Bruce, I searched without success for a pump to fit that space and decided to get a self-priming diaphragm pump instead. The pump can be mounted in another location and the pickup hose will fit in front of the keel nut. Tom C&C 29-2 Bridie MaeLittle Neck Bay, NY ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Matching Traveler Track Dimensions 29 Mark II
The Garhauer fits the recess in the bridgedeck well. The modification to the traveller car was to countersink screws rather than flush mount. That plus adding 1/4 spacer under track. They also predrilled track holes per my spec. Can send pictures if interested. Additional charge for modifications was reasonable. Tom O'KeeffeBridie MaeC&C 29-2Douglaston NY Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Matching Traveller Track Dimensions 29 Mark II
Garhauer is another option. Another lister figured out a way to have Garhauer modify their MT-1 system to fit the 29-2. The issues were the narrowness of the channel in the bridge deck in which the traveller sits and the need to raise their standard track by 1/4". I went for a variation of his idea (I wanted the cam cleats on the car, the other lister on the coaming). If you're interested I can forward off-list an email thread. Tom O'KeeffeBridie MaeC&C 29-2, 1984Douglaston, NY ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Proper Blower Installation - 30 mki - Jabsco part number
Ryan In case helpful, when I replaced the blower on my 29-2 I could read the part number on the old one and buy the same. It installed without modifications. It is ignition protected but not the heavy duty model sold for commercial operation. Jabsco Blower 34739-0010 DC 12V Tom O'Keeffe Bridie MaeC&C 29-2 1984Douglaston, NY ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List depth finder display
DMImarine.com. They service and sell parts and replacements for the old round style meters. They rebuilt my masthead wind indicator this winter. Expensive, but a lot less than a new system. Tom O'KeeffeBridiemae29-2 1984Douglaston NY On Sunday, June 14, 2015 6:33 PM, Indigo via CnC-List wrote: If it's a Datamarine unit, I believe there is a company called DMI that repairs replaces old Datamarine units. --JonathanIndigo C&C 35III SOUTHPORT CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List New foredeck hatch
Wal and JIm I'll try the router first. Template taped underneath the hole to guide the trim bit, frame of 1x4s on top of the deck to provide a flat surface for the router base. That should keep it under control. Did the very rough cut with the jig saw already. Very solid deck with a glass core between the skins. Hopefully the router will clean that up nicely. Thanks. Tom On Tuesday, March 31, 2015 7:30 PM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List wrote: Maybe some scrap wood and clamps would help the router stay under control. Else I'd use a sabre saw to trace the outline. Carbonite bits cut through fiberglass well. Good caulk fixes many minor errors. Sorry if someone else already said this... I'm about 145 emails behind. Wal On 3/27/2015 12:45 PM, O'Keeffe Thomas via CnC-List wrote: > I decided to use a router and made a template. Tried that yesterday and > found the deck is tough, with solid epoxy between the skins. The router > basically bounced off. I did it from underneath because the hatch sits in a > recess topside. I probably won't try that again as I couldn't the router. > > Before I hack up my deck and any body parts, checking with this group for > comments or ideas? -- s/v Stella Blue www.wbryant.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List New foredeck hatch
Paul, Thanks. I already put a vent in the new hatch so I'm committed to the
Bomar. Will do that if there is a next time. It would have been worth the
extra $$.
I'll cut up to the line with a carbide grit blade in a jig saw then finish from
the top with a flush cut router bit that Fibreglast sells. In my first attempt
I think there was too much material for the router to handle.
Tom
On Friday, March 27, 2015 8:49 AM, Paul Fountain wrote:
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{}#yiv4586283875 Tom, when I did Perceptions (85 33-II) hatches I used Lewmar
Ocean series that deck mounted. The corners fitted the ones on the openings
better than the Bomars I removed. Paul Fountain Managing Director SeaSource
Inc. Bookkeeping & IT Services. From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of O'Keeffe Thomas via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 27, 2015 8:46 AM
To: C&C List
Subject: Stus-List New foredeck hatch The hatch repair shop (Hatchmasters)
suggested that in my case I might be better of replacing my Bomar foredeck
hatch instead of sending to him to rebuild. It was a good conversation and I
appreciated his product knowledge shared honestly. So I purchased the closest
Bomar model from the 1039 series. My issue is the old hatch sits on top of
the deck, but the new one has a flange. To fit the flange plus Bomar's trim
ring I need to enlarge the hole by 3/4 inch (3/8 each side). I decided to use
a router and made a template. Tried that yesterday and found the deck is
tough, with solid epoxy between the skins. The router basically bounced off.
I did it from underneath because the hatch sits in a recess topside. I
probably won't try that again as I couldn't the router. Before I hack up my
deck and any body parts, checking with this group for comments or ideas?
Thanks. Tom O'Keeffe Bridie Mae 1984 C&C 29-2 Douglaston, NY
___
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Re: Stus-List Torquing keel nuts
Was able to complete the job yesterday as suggested a few months ago. Thanks. Tom O'KeeffeBridie Mae1984 C&C 29-2Douglaston, NY On Monday, January 5, 2015 12:35 AM, Ted Drossos via CnC-List wrote: Torquing the keel nuts on a C&C 29-2 is a one person job if you use a shorter extension than the one you describe. I assume you have the standard 5'-3" draft model which has a larger and deeper bilge than the 4'-0" shoal draft version. The extension doesn't have to be so long as to raise the torque wrench above the settee. Just get a long enough extension so that the wrench clears the top of the cabin sole. Sit on the sole with the end of wrench handle facing aft. Brace your legs against the vertical face of the settee and your back against the settee on the opposite side. This will give you enough leverage to reach the 350 ft. lb. torque on the largest bolts. You'll need a 12" long extension for those nuts. Don't forget the nut hidden under the mast. That's the one that makes the "smile" if you neglect to torque it on a regular basis. Ted DrossosC&C 29-2H2OTBay Shore, Long Island, NY Sent from AOL Mobile Mail ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album. Please donate to the C&C Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List New foredeck hatch
The hatch repair shop (Hatchmasters) suggested that in my case I might be better of replacing my Bomar foredeck hatch instead of sending to him to rebuild. It was a good conversation and I appreciated his product knowledge shared honestly. So I purchased the closest Bomar model from the 1039 series. My issue is the old hatch sits on top of the deck, but the new one has a flange. To fit the flange plus Bomar's trim ring I need to enlarge the hole by 3/4 inch (3/8 each side). I decided to use a router and made a template. Tried that yesterday and found the deck is tough, with solid epoxy between the skins. The router basically bounced off. I did it from underneath because the hatch sits in a recess topside. I probably won't try that again as I couldn't the router. Before I hack up my deck and any body parts, checking with this group for comments or ideas? Thanks. Tom O'KeeffeBridie Mae 1984 C&C 29-2Douglaston, NY ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Window Installation - 1985 41
I did add screws and used the sikaflex UV with spacers. Screw holes in the window are one drill bit size larger than the screws. My prior boat (O'Day) had the screws from the factory. Did it 5 years ago. No leaks or cracks. Tom O'Keeffe Bridie Mae 29-2 Douglaston, NY Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List 2 unrelated questions:
Paul, Your second question about searching the list. In Google, after your search term, type a space and then this: site:cnc-list.com Somebody posted that here a while ago and it's handy. TomC&C 29-2Bridie Mae - Reply message - From: "Paul Wyand via CnC-List" To: Subject: Stus-List 2 unrelated questions: Date: Tue, Jan 6, 2015 11:22 AM Hello all, I am looking at a C&C 36 pretty seriously for a liveable boat. I think it will work out for me, but am looking at a few things that may need to be done to make the boat comfortable for year round living aboard. 1.) Icebox refrigeration, what size is the icebox? I am trying to figure out a plan for refrigeration. Anyone that has done this, advice woudl be helpful. 2.) How can you search the list? Seems you can get the past posts in bulk but I don't see any useful search function. I am sure I will have lots of questions if I go through with the perchance. ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album. Please donate to the C&C Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album. Please donate to the C&C Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album. Please donate to the C&C Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Torquing keel nuts
Tedd, Josh Great. I'll try Ted's method next time I go so I shoudn't need to get the multiplier. It's the standard keel and the mast is out so I can get to the forward nut. Thanks. Tom O'Keeffe Bridie Mae C&C 29-2 Douglaston, NY On Mon, 1/5/15, Ted Drossos via CnC-List wrote: Subject: Stus-List Torquing keel nuts To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date: Monday, January 5, 2015, 12:35 AM Torquing the keel nuts on a C&C 29-2 is a one person job if you use a shorter extension than the one you describe. I assume you have the standard 5'-3" draft model which has a larger and deeper bilge than the 4'-0" shoal draft version. The extension doesn't have to be so long as to raise the torque wrench above the settee. Just get a long enough extension so that the wrench clears the top of the cabin sole. Sit on the sole with the end of wrench handle facing aft. Brace your legs against the vertical face of the settee and your back against the settee on the opposite side. This will give you enough leverage to reach the 350 ft. lb. torque on the largest bolts. You'll need a 12" long extension for those nuts. Don't forget the nut hidden under the mast. That's the one that makes the "smile" if you neglect to torque it on a regular basis. Ted DrossosC&C 29-2H2OTBay Shore, Long Island, NY Sent from AOL Mobile Mail -Inline Attachment Follows- ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album. Please donate to the C&C Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album. Please donate to the C&C Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Torquing keel nuts
Jake,
Thanks, that should help keep it in line. I need the longer extensions because
the benches are too close to each other, i.e., I can't get even 1/6 of a turn
so there is not enough room to reposition the socket for the next sixth of a
turn. I need to get the wrench higher than the benches.
Tom O'Keeffe Bridie Mae29-2Douglaston, NY
On Sunday, January 4, 2015 9:54 AM, Jake Brodersen
wrote:
#yiv4169897084 #yiv4169897084 -- filtered {font-family:Helvetica;panose-1:2 11
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{}#yiv4169897084 Tom, I use about 24” of extensions to reach the bottom of my
bilge. I brace a couple thicknesses of 2x4 material between the extension and
the side of the bilge, just below the head of the wrench. Without support,
you may bend your extensions and not apply the proper torque. Having a second
pair of hands to stabilize the wrench and extensions will definitely help.
Jake Jake Brodersen“Midnight Mistress”C&C 35 Mk-IIIHampton VA From:
CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of O'Keeffe Thomas
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2015 6:16 PM
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Torquing keel nuts Torquing my boat's keel nuts, for the
nuts down in the bilge sump of my 29-2 I am finding I will need to use a lot of
extensions to raise the 42" long wrench high enough for swing room. The wrench
handle needs to clear the top of the setee. With 350 ft lbs of torque and
something like 40" in extensions, I am worried about side loading. It seems
like a two-person job -- one to keep the head of the wrench lined up with the
nut and another to swing the wrench. Before I try it, any suggestions on how
not to do this? I spent much time researching the keel nut topic on this list
and elsewhere before attacking the job. The knowledge shared by listers here
is phenomenal. I never would have attempted this without that help.
Thanks. Tom O'Keeffe Bridie Mae29-2Douglaston, NY
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Stus-List Torquing keel nuts
Torquing my boat's keel nuts, for the nuts down in the bilge sump of my 29-2 I am finding I will need to use a lot of extensions to raise the 42" long wrench high enough for swing room. The wrench handle needs to clear the top of the setee. With 350 ft lbs of torque and something like 40" in extensions, I am worried about side loading. It seems like a two-person job -- one to keep the head of the wrench lined up with the nut and another to swing the wrench. Before I try it, any suggestions on how not to do this? I spent much time researching the keel nut topic on this list and elsewhere before attacking the job. The knowledge shared by listers here is phenomenal. I never would have attempted this without that help. Thanks. Tom O'Keeffe Bridie Mae29-2Douglaston, NY ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album. Please donate to the C&C Photo Album to keep this list free for all subscribers. Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List rookie questions
I would check out the tiller stay as an alternative to the tiller tamer. I've used both. Tiller stay has the advantage that the tiller can be moved easily through its full range without disconnecting the line. I found the Tiller tamer will break unless you remember to increase the length of the line as the tiller moves off center. Tillerstay is not as well known but has been on the market for many years. Now sold by Catalinadirect (no affiliation). See at http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/1933_199/itiller-stayi-tiller-controller.cfm Tom C&C 29-2 1984, Bridie Mae ___ This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
