Stus-List Re: Does anyone know if Winchmate is still in business?

[Riley Anderson via CnC-List]

I think most of the responders are confusing Barton's "Wincher" for the
Winchmate product. These are very different products. The Wincher is a
rubber jammer that slides over the top of the winch and is essentially
useless, especially for large winches like Rick's. The Winchmate is a
highly engineered, machined conversion kit that actually transforms your
non self-tailing winch to a proper self-tailing winch. The price always
hovered around $500 USD per winch, making them a financially viable
alternative to replacing your winches. However, from my understanding, the
Winchmate was a one-man operation that never took off (reasons unclear).

Two years ago, I contacted them to order the Winchmate for our big Barients
but never heard back. I assume that the one-man shop has closed for good.
Meaning there really is no good method for converting your big winches to
self-tailing anymore.

Historically, WestMarine (WorstMarine) has held a spring sale every year on
Lewmar winches. Any Lewmar winch is buy one, get one free. In 2022, we
swapped out our primaries and secondaries for $3300 total. That is a great
price. I'm not sure if they are still offering this sale but I would start
looking now.

On Sun, Feb 25, 2024 at 10:23 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I think Barton makes an equivalent product.  Barton Wincher.
>
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Sun, Feb 25, 2024 at 7:23 PM Rick Brass via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I was sort of planning to use part of this year’s tax refund to upgrade
>> the Barient 32 primaries on Imzadi to selftailers using Winchmate
>> conversion kits. The converted winches I’ve seen on other boats were very
>> good, and selftailers would make single handing a lot easier, but I’ve
>> always seemed to have other priorities in the past.
>>
>>
>>
>> But when I went to the website I had bookmarked to check the current cost
>> and lead time, I find the website is down. A search turned up several sites
>> with recommendations for the conversion kits, and a Winchmate Facebook page
>> that doesn’t seem to have any recent information on it.
>>
>>
>>
>> Does anyone know if Winchmate is still in business? Or maybe has a new
>> owner? Contact information? Or can recommend a source for these (or
>> equivalent) conversion kits?
>>
>>
>>
>> Any information would be appreciated.
>>
>>
>>
>> Rick Brass
>>
>> Imzadi  C 38 mk2 #47
>>
>> la Belle Aurore  C 25 mk1 #225
>>
>> Washington, NC
>>
>>
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
>>
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu



-- 
Fair winds,

Dr. Charlotte Freeland &  Dr. Riley Anderson
SV Freight Train
Old Saybrook, CT USA
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C 35 mk3 shaft line questions

[Riley Anderson via CnC-List]

Keith,

You are not overthinking this. You are correct that the coupler is a
designed interference fit. When I repowered our 38-2 I had a new coupler to
install, but getting it on the shaft was not possible with the tools I had.
You'd need a sledge hammer on the engine side and someone holding an anvil
against the prop. I opted to reuse the old coupler out of necessity. The
old one had a keyway and two 7/16" set screws. Not ideal but we now have
400 hours of motoring on it and have had no issues. I actually tried to
take it off last winter to check the packing material and it was so tight I
would've needed to remove the engine and use a puller to get it off. If
you're really worried about it, drill out your small set screws and tap
larger ones. You can put a lot clamping force on a 7/16" set screw.

 Cheers,

Riley

On Sat, Feb 3, 2024, 9:22 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Gotta do the same project.
>
> I think you are over thinking this.  The OD of the hose is irrelevant.
> The OD of the cutless bearing needs to be measured as struts can vary
> between models and years.  Best to get the cutless bearing that fits the
> strut, and that may need to be measured to get that right.
>
> I look forward to the replies.
>
> Chuck S
>
>
>
> On 02/03/2024 8:51 PM EST keith morgenstern via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hey folks, I'm hoping the C community will help me out.
>
> Two shaft line questions, one perhaps easy, one perhaps hard.
>
> Easy Question: On the 35 mk3, does anyone recall the dimensions on the
> cutlass bearing? Obviously the ID (shaft size) is 1.0-inches. I think the
> length is 4", but what is the OD??
>
> Hard Question: I need to replace the old and tired rubber hose between the
> shaft log and the packing gland. To do this, one obviously needs to remove
> the coupling from the transmission end of the shaft. The problem (i've
> heard) is that the coupling is slightly undersized to the shaft so that it
> has a nice tight interference fit. So not only is removal really hard, but
> once you get it off, and clean all the rust off...it's no longer a very
> good interference fit. So when you put it back together, the only thing
> transmitting the torque is the shaft key and the tiny set screws, rather
> than the nice "hug" of an interference fit.
> Q1: is this a real thing?
> Q2: has anyone ever done this and had no problems?
>
> Thanks a bunch!!
>
> -Keith M
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Long Island sound

[Riley Anderson via CnC-List]

Gardiner's Bay and Shelter Island (eastern LI) have top notch gunkholing.
You can basically anchor anywhere as the holding is primarily thick mud.

To anchor:
Pipe's Cove (west of Greenport)
Coecles Harbor (east side Shelter island)
West Neck Harbor (SW side Shelter island)
Three Mile Harbor (S Gardiner's Bay/east Hampton)
Sag Harbor (lots of super yachts)

To moor:
Deering Harbor (N Shelter island)
Coecles Harbor (Rams Head Inn or Coecles Marina)
Sag Harbor (inner harbor)

All of these spots have pretty quick dinghy access or launch to town.

In Old Saybrook, CT, you can grab a free mooring at North Cove for up to 72
hours and enjoy a short walk to main street. Stop by and say hi to Freight
Train if you do.

I would skip Port Jefferson unless you enjoy tourists, expensive
restaurants, and the odor of refuse.

Enjoy!


On Tue, Aug 29, 2023, 11:54 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We will be travelling from Mystic through LIS next month.Are there any
> 'must see' places between Mystic and Port Washington on either shore?
>
> --
> Joel
> Hylas 49 Rule One
> formerly C 35 The Office
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Bilge blower & pumps

[Riley Anderson via CnC-List]

I use SeaFlo for my fresh water pump and a large diaphragm bilge pump. Both
are great and have withstood 3 years of full time cruising without a
hiccup. If you're concerned about premature failure, buy two (one for a
backup), still cheaper than mainstream brands. They are no worse than
anything at the marine stores. Everything these days is Chinese junk and if
you think you're getting around that by spending  on brand name marine
brands, you're kidding yourself.

On Thu, Jul 20, 2023, 2:23 PM Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have a question for the group. Does anyone have experience with the
> Seaflo brand of bilge blowers or pumps? I need to replace a blower and add
> both. To my boats.
>
> Douglas Mountjoy
> 1988 C LF 39
> Mexico at large
> 1984 Sabre 34
> Port Orchard, WA
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Running Lights Blowing Fuses

[Riley Anderson via CnC-List]

Interesting that it only blows the breaker when screwed into the
(aluminum?) toe rail.
Let us know if the nylon screws solve the short. If so, you definitely have
a short in some wiring running in the channel at the deck/hull joint that
is touching a bolt causing a short circuit through the toe rail.

Alternatively, how old is the breaker? The wiring? Original to the boat?

As a marine electrician, I don't even bother diagnosing equipment >40 years
old. My rate is more expensive than replacing old parts with new ones...

On Thu, Aug 11, 2022, 8:11 PM Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello Listers,
>
> I’m in need of your sage advice or at least hypotheses on an electrical
> problem.
>
> Here’s the background.  Late last season my starboard running light bulb
> burnt out.  It was a simple incandescent bulb, and the fixtures were
> probably original.  So I thought hey, why not replace all three running
> lights with LEDs.  In the process of doing that, I accidentally dropped the
> port fixture’s dome cover to the bottom of my slip (no chance of recovery;
> zero visibility).  So, shit.  I buy three new fixtures which have the same
> hole pattern as the old ones but of course take different bulbs so I had to
> buy LED festoon-style bulbs too.  What started out as a simple $1.50 bulb
> replacement turned into a $150 project.  And of course the new fixtures’
> bases are thicker than the old, so I had to get longer stainless screws and
> drill and tap deeper holes in the stemhead casting.
>
> Well, after getting everything back together I discovered the running
> lights circuit is blowing its fuse within seconds of switching it on.  But
> only when the dome covers are screwed on to forward fixtures (the new stern
> fixture including dome cover screws into the teak taffrail and causes no
> problems).  I’ve now isolated the misbehavior to screwing the forward dome
> covers on.  If I leave the covers off, the LED bulbs burn all night.  I can
> press down on the fixtures and twist the LED bulbs around no problem - none
> of that causes any contact that shorts the circuit.  If I put the covers on
> but don’t screw them down, the LED bulbs burn all night.  But as soon as I
> screw those forward covers down, blown fuse.
>
> I’ve pulled the fixtures and looked carefully again at all the wiring,
> including in the forepeak under the deck.  There is no pinched wire or cut
> insulation.  The wiring to the fixtures goes through different (and much
> bigger) holes than any of the screws do.  My heat-shrink butt connections
> are tight.  As a short-term solution I just bought some nylon screws to
> hold the covers down.  I haven’t tested that yet, but hopefully it works.
>
> Meanwhile I’m pretty mystified.  Any theories?
>
> Thanks,
> Randy Stafford
> SV Grenadine
> C 30 MK I #79
> Ken Caryl, CO
>

Stus-List Re: C 34 Winch replacement

[Riley Anderson via CnC-List]

Replaced our Barient 28 primaries with Lewmar 46 self tailing. Power factor
increased but drum diameter decreased. I can't tell the difference in terms
of cranking effort but then again we also don't use a genoa bigger than 130
(no racing, only cruising). The main reason for the switch was to have self
tailing.

West Marine has a buy one get one free sale every spring (March) on Lewmar
winches. No matter what you get, you'll almost certainly need to fill the
old holes and should drill/fill/drill the new holes. The alignment is
critical too, the main drive gear has to be positioned in line with the
load.

If you want a set of stainless Barient 28 two speed non self tailing
winches, send me an email and we can make a deal.

Cheers,

On Thu, Jul 28, 2022, 11:52 PM Dean McNeill via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Looking to replace the original Barient 25 double speed primary winches on
> my 1980 C 34 over the off season with similar sized self-tailing ones.
> Anyone with a similar boat find a good replacement with same or similar
> mounting holes that would save me some work? Really interested in what
> others have done and recommend.
>
> Thanks, Dean
>
> C 34
> BarraWind
> Halifax, NS, Canada
>
>

Stus-List Re: Bed-It butyl tape

[Riley Anderson via CnC-List]

Defender has is for <$30.
Keep it in the fridge for easy use without the mess.

On Tue, Jul 26, 2022, 12:19 PM nausetbeach--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hey Chuck,
>
>
>
> Try this link –   I just successfully put it in the cart to test it.  Did
> not try to check out though as still have some ordered from Rod before his
> event.
>
>
>
> Bed-It Bed-It Tape (sailboatowners.com)
> 
>
>
>
>
> Brian
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 26, 2022 12:07 PM
> *To:* CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
> *Cc:* CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Bed-It butyl tape
>
>
>
> Looking to buy a new roll of Bed-it butyl tape.  Anybody buy it recently?
>
>
>
> Seems the old supplier has a dead end link to "sailboatowners.com".
>
>
>
> I tried a few google searches but they were all dead ends except one
> selling a roll for $40.  I have a roll from SailRite that is crap.  It was
> fine when new, but after some months onboard this summer, it's now a real
> struggle to remove from it's own wax paper and stretches and breaks.  Had
> to use a putty knife to get the wax paper off.
>
>
>
> Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R Annapolis
>

Stus-List Re: Batteries again

[Riley Anderson via CnC-List]

Paul makes some good points but I want to remind everyone that there is no
such thing as a drop in replacement lithium battery for boats.
Accommodations must be made on the charge side. Charge profiles need to be
3 stage and specific to lithium chemistries. Also, you can do serious
damage to your alternator if you try hooking up a large lithium bank to a
small alternator. The internal resistance of lithium cells is so low, the
alternator will quickly burn out trying to supply the load. Additionally,
the drop in replacement type batteries pose an additional hazard in that a
high voltage disconnect would also destroy your alternator if precautions
are not taken.

One last gripe, the YouTuber, Will Prowse, is a hack. He is not an
engineer, nor an expert on lithium batteries. He is an expert in online
marketing. His business model is to promote the cheapest of products with
affiliate links so he gets a kickback of anything he mentions. People
always want cheap, and are fooled into believing they're getting cheap and
great when someone on the internet purports to be an expert.

On Thu, May 26, 2022, 3:24 PM Dreuge via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Dave,
>
> As I mentioned in previously replies to the list, it no longer makes any
> sense to buy lead acid batteries(i.e. flooded, gel, or AGM)  for a house
> bank.   For lead acid, the AH capacity is highly dependent on the current
> load due to the Peukert Effect.   Deep cycle lead acid batteries are rated
> at C/20.  For a 100AH rated battery, this is 100AH/20H = 5A.   This is
> often called the 20H rate, i.e.  5A * 20H = 100AH. If the actual load
> is 20A, then the same 100AH rated lead acid battery would only provide 60AH
> (or 10AH at 100A).  And worse, one should only use 50% of a lead acid
> battery’s capacity as going below 50% substantially degrades the battery
> lifetime.   This means that a 100AH lead acid battery has an effective 50AH
> @ 5A (or 30AH @ 20A).
>
> Let’s assume a 100AH lead acid battery price of $264 (the average of the
> Amazon prices), then 2 batteries would cost one $528 and one would get an
> effective 100AH (50%*200AH) at 5A loads.
>
> Now,  the price of LiFePO4 batteries have come way down in the last few
> years and their performance and lifetimes are a magnitude better.   A 100AH
> LiFePO4 battery is typically rated at 1C.  That is they can deliver 100AH
> at 100A for 1H(or 5A at 20H or 20A at 5H).  They can also charge at amps up
> to 100A which is impossible for a lead acid battery.   And LiFePO4
> batteries live 5 times longer.  That is,  one would expect to replace 5
> sets of lead acid batteries before replacing a LiFePO4 battery.Yes,
> LiFePO4 batteries are more complex as they require a battery management
> system (i.e. BMS), but there are companies which provide 12V drop in
> replacements with the BMS built internal to the battery.   Top companies
> like Battle Born sell a 100AH LiFePO4 for $874 and provide a 10yr warranty.
>   Renogy sells a 100AH LiFePO4 for $765.   A company, CurrentConnected.com, 
> sells
> a SOK 100AH LiFePO4 battery for $569 and it has a 10 yr warranty!
> YouTuber Will Prowse rates the SOK as the best value LiFePO4 12V drop in
> replacement (see https://www.mobile-solarpower.com/lithium-batteries.html).
> There are a plethora of cheaper 100AH LiFePO4 batteries that can be found
> on Amazon, Ebay, AliExpres, …, but one gets little service and limited
> warrantees,  so I would recommend avoiding these.
>
> Rather than buying 2 100AH lead acid batteries for $528 at a total weight
> of 140lbs(70lbs each) , one could just buy 1 100AH LiFePO4 for $569
> weighing only 28lbs and get a better performing battery.  That is basically
> the same price.   If one takes into account the increased lifetime, the
> saving is HUGE!
>
> If one builds their own DIY LiFePO4 battery, the savings is much much
> greater.   Last year I replaced 2 100AH lead acid batteries with one DIY
> 560AH LiFePO4 battery for a little over $900 (see my blog link below).  The
> DIY LiFePO4 battery occupies the same location and physical space as the
> previous 2 lead acid batteries, it weighs much less (95 lbs vs 125 lbs),
> but has 5 TIMES the capacity.
>
> I recently gave a talk on off-grid solar systems a local  amateur radio
> society meeting.  The discuss the battery as the heart of the system and
> make the case for LiFePO4 batteries.  My slides from the talk are available
> on my blog:
>
> https://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2021/10/solar-off-grid-system.html
>
>
> Also, the details of my DIY 560AH LiFePO4 are posted at the link below
> which includes details about alternator charging.
>
>
> https://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2021/06/adding-new-lifepo4-to-house-battery.html
>
>
>
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C Landfall 38
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>
> On May 26, 2022, at 11:24 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I have been following the battery discussion 

Stus-List Re: What's this thingy?

[Riley Anderson via CnC-List]

It's meant to catch kelp/seaweed from snagging the rudder shaft at its
entry point in the hull.

On Thu, Dec 23, 2021, 11:11 AM Brian Davis via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Good day C'ers,
>
> Wishing all a very merry Christmas!
>
> What's the little stainless steel rod about 2" long that come out of the
> bottom of the hull just a few inches forward of the rudder?
>
> Regards,
> Brian
>
> 1980 Landfall 38SL
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 12 volt DC power supply

[Riley Anderson via CnC-List]

Dennis,

I would get a 120 VAC to 12VDC adapter like this: https://amzn.to/3Gjb4AN,
and a terminal block . Snip the DC plug off, strip
the wires, use a multimeter to determine polarity, and then wire it to the
distribution block. You could throw a fuse in line if you're cautious but
given you just want to use it for testing, I think the internal fuse would
suffice.

Cheers,
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Insurance

[Riley Anderson via CnC-List]

I think that is more a function of your policy choice. BoatUS won't even
take on new clients with a boat that is more than 20 years old. Most
insurance companies will require a survey if the boat is older, otherwise
they will insure it for ~$10k. With my policy, any damage will be covered
up to the value of the boat ($60k). Yes, the deductible is high, $3000 for
any claim, $6000 if the damage occurs during a named storm, and $0 if the
boat is a total loss. This includes losing the mast, I'd get up to $60k
minus the deductible. Also, my policy has a 100% tow reimbursement with no
deductible.

On Fri, Sep 24, 2021 at 10:23 AM rockland bazemore via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Just looked into it and Progressive is only liability coverage for boats
> over 20 years old. If your boat gets struck by lighting or sinks you get
> $0. Guess I'll stick with Geico. I got struck by lightning last year and
> they fixed everything. Yes it is expensive.  Correct me if I'm wrong.
> Rocky
>
> On Fri, Sep 24, 2021 at 9:47 AM Matthew via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> That was why I left Boat US / GEICO in the first place – that whole
>> reduced value to 20% baloney.  I switched to Travelers, which had a good
>> policy but dramatically increased its annual premium the last three years.
>> As a result, I’m now with Progressive.
>>
>>
>>
>> I’m the kind of person who likes to find a good policy with reasonable
>> rates and stick with it.  For boat insurance, however, it pays to shop
>> around.
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* David Risch via CnC-List 
>> *Sent:* Friday, September 24, 2021 9:25 AM
>> *To:* Stus-List 
>> *Cc:* Andy Frame ; David Risch 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Insurance
>>
>>
>>
>> Check the fine print.   Ask the question.   If I lose the mast
>>
>> Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu



-- 
Fair winds and following seas,

Charlotte Freeland & Riley Anderson
SV Freight Train
Middletown, CT USA
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Insurance

[Riley Anderson via CnC-List]

Same here, BoatUS is an absolute rip-off. My coverage with BoatUS was
$16,000 for $1400/year. With Amica, bundled with my car insurance, my
policy is now $880/year and the boat is covered up to $60,000.

On Thu, Sep 23, 2021 at 3:48 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I recently received a renewal notice from GEICO (BoatUS). They said my
> insurance premium was reduced (from $1256 to $1226/year). Just for a check,
> I asked Progressive for a quote. Their price for the same amount of
> insurance was $487/year. I am now a Progressive customer.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu



-- 
Fair winds and following seas,

Charlotte Freeland & Riley Anderson
SV Freight Train
Middletown, CT USA
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: anyone gone lithium?

[Riley Anderson via CnC-List]

Given that output, I would go for the 30 Amp Victron.

On Tue, Sep 21, 2021 at 8:05 PM Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My alternator is a 60 amp Balmar with an ARS-5 regulator.
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Riley Anderson via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 21, 2021 3:48 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Della Barba, Joe ; Riley Anderson <
> svfreighttr...@gmail.com>
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: anyone gone lithium?
>
>
>
> Hi Joe,
>
>
>
> You have the direction right. The ATEM charger will do you no good. The
> Victron Orion Smart is designed for this specific task. The question now is
> how big is your alternator? What is its rated output in amps? Victron
> recommends a 70 Amp alternator for use with their 30 Amp Orion.
>
>
>
> On Tue, Sep 21, 2021 at 2:59 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> If I pull the trigger on this, it is going to be alternator > start
> battery > DC-DC charger > lithium battery.
>
> So what say you lithium experts:
>
> This one
>
> Amazon.com: Victron Energy Orion-Tr Smart 12/12-Volt 30 amp 360-Watt DC-DC
> Charger, Non-Isolated (Bluetooth) : Electronics
> <https://www.amazon.com/Victron-Energy-Orion-Tr-Non-Isolated-Bluetooth/dp/B086Q8YNJZ/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1=dc-dc+charger=1632250568=8-6>
>
>
>
> Or
>
>
>
> Amazon.com: ATEM POWER 12V 40A DC to DC Battery Charger with MPPT Solar
> Panel Controller for Lead Acid, AGM, Gel, Calcium, LiON Batteries, Multiple
> Protection Design On-Board Charger : Patio, Lawn & Garden
> <https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0924C49W1?pd_rd_i=B0924C49W1_rd_w=OM6Bf_rd_p=7ea8e9d0-fed1-49e8-a002-f2d3f5cb151d_rd_wg=HYP8I_rd_r=Q9NWCJHGX31A58FME6NK_rd_r=22c7768b-6a78-4191-8365-2f6ecd476ede>
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> Fair winds and following seas,
>
>
>
> Charlotte Freeland & Riley Anderson
>
> SV Freight Train
>
> Middletown, CT USA
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu



-- 
Fair winds and following seas,

Charlotte Freeland & Riley Anderson
SV Freight Train
Middletown, CT USA
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: anyone gone lithium?

[Riley Anderson via CnC-List]

Hi Joe,

You have the direction right. The ATEM charger will do you no good. The
Victron Orion Smart is designed for this specific task. The question now is
how big is your alternator? What is its rated output in amps? Victron
recommends a 70 Amp alternator for use with their 30 Amp Orion.

On Tue, Sep 21, 2021 at 2:59 PM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If I pull the trigger on this, it is going to be alternator > start
> battery > DC-DC charger > lithium battery.
>
> So what say you lithium experts:
>
> This one
>
> Amazon.com: Victron Energy Orion-Tr Smart 12/12-Volt 30 amp 360-Watt DC-DC
> Charger, Non-Isolated (Bluetooth) : Electronics
> 
>
>
>
> Or
>
>
>
> Amazon.com: ATEM POWER 12V 40A DC to DC Battery Charger with MPPT Solar
> Panel Controller for Lead Acid, AGM, Gel, Calcium, LiON Batteries, Multiple
> Protection Design On-Board Charger : Patio, Lawn & Garden
> 
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu



-- 
Fair winds and following seas,

Charlotte Freeland & Riley Anderson
SV Freight Train
Middletown, CT USA
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: wind instrument

[Riley Anderson via CnC-List]

Hi Marek,

I have a Raymarine T120 wireless wind anemometer that I'm trying to sell.
If you want wireless wind data that will talk to your Raymarine autopilot,
you'll need Raymarine's "Micro-talk wireless performance gateway" Part
number E70361 for $265 at Defender. This part will take the wireless data
and convert it to SeaTalk NG. Since its output is SeaTalkNG you can also
interface with any of the newer Raymarine MFDs or i70s series repeaters.
Email me directly if you're interested. svfreighttr...@gmail.com

On Tue, Sep 21, 2021 at 2:00 PM Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi,
>
>
>
> I am starting to think about adding the wind instrument to the boat. The
> main reason is for being able to feed the data (wind direction) to the
> EV-100 autopilot.
>
>
>
> I have a SeatalkNG network on the boat. I don’t have a Raymarine MFC,
> though (I have a small Garmin chartplotter, instead).
>
>
>
> I am a minimalist (you could say “cheap”), so e.g., I don’t have a Navpod
> on the binnacle; rather I have two individual RAM mount pods (for the
> chartplotter and one for the p70s (the autopilot control head).
>
>
>
> I unstep the mast for every winter, so I am biased towards a wireless unit.
>
>
>
> I have a few questions:
>
>
>
> - Any recommendations for the wind instrument (Raymarine, Garmin, B)? My
> first choice would be a unit that talks NMEA 2000 (SeatalkNG) (as opposed
> to an analog unit that requires an extra device (iTC-5?) to connect. But
> this is mainly to control the costs.
>
>
>
> - With limited space at the helm, what is the minimum requirement to feed
> the wind data to the EV-100 autopilot? I don’t think I need the detailed
> wind angle displayed, as long as the AP can follow. Though I could put the
> wind display somewhere else (on the bulkhead?). But if that display is not
> required AND I could save the cost by not including it, I might be fine
> with that.
>
>
>
> - Any strong recommendations against the wireless?
>
>
>
> - Any other suggestions or recommendations?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> 1994 C270 ”Legato”
>
> Ottawa, ON
>
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu



-- 
Fair winds and following seas,

Charlotte Freeland & Riley Anderson
SV Freight Train
Middletown, CT USA
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: anyone gone lithium?

[Riley Anderson via CnC-List]

Yes, thanks Paul for adding these nuances. One can only include so much of
the details and my disdain for "drop-in replacement" lithiums stems more
from my concern that many end-users will take this completely at face value
and make no other modification to their boat's electrical system to
accommodate the lithium. Moreover, board-level dual bus systems may be
incorporated on some of the bigger names but that is most certainly not
guaranteed on the cheap imitators sold at Alibaba and Amazon.



On Wed, Sep 15, 2021 at 5:55 PM Dreuge  wrote:

> Riley,
>
> While I’m not an advocate for drop-in replacements, but your statements
> about them cutting off ones VHF, depth, chartplotter, bilge pumps, radar,
> etc. is plainly false.   The BMS in these drop-ins use separate charging
> and discharging power MOSFET, so yes the built in BMS can stop an over
> charge but they are still able discharge as normal.   This is in essence a
> dual buss system, but at the board level.   There are plenty of cruisers
> using these drop-ins and many of them are sponsored companies you
> mentioned, SV Delos being the most notable was sponsored by Battleborn.  I
> do know some people who prefer a relayed controlled BMS.  For relays BMS
> systems,  you do want or should have separate charging  and discharging
> buses, but that is due to the nature of the two way flow of relays.
>
> The Lithium fires that we all hear about are not the same battery
> chemistry.  The Lithium batteries in laptops, phones, Teslas and some power
> hand tools are the lithium-ions: LiCoO2, LiMgO2, …These have higher
> energy density which is why the are used, but they are not as safe as
> LiFePO4.  While the Li-Ions are know to produce excessive heat, which leads
> to thermal runaway (ie. fire/explosions), the LiFePO4 does not.
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C Landfall 38
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Riley Anderson via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, September 15, 2021 11:39 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Della Barba, Joe ; Riley Anderson <
> svfreighttr...@gmail.com>
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: anyone gone lithium?
>
> Hi Joe and any others interested in this topic.
>
> I install lithium batteries as my side job and after installing lithium on
> our 38-ii and other large boats and consulting on another half dozen boats,
> I can speak with some authority on this topic.
>
> *The risk of serious electrical or fire damage can be entirely mitigated
> by properly installing the right equipment and following a strict circuit
> topology. Most people who have installed lithium do not do this and this is
> precisely why we hear about "lithium fires" so commonly.*
>
> Before diving into the details, you should be aware that in order to
> safely install lithium batteries on a boat, you need to buy top-quality
> gear that is compatible with the exact lithium chemistry of your batteries.
> Can you use an AGM charge profile from the old charger you have lying
> around? Sure, you may be willing to take more risks than others but this is
> not acceptable in a professional install and it also reduces the efficiency
> of your expensive batteries that you bought for their high efficiency in
> the first place! It is these "indirect" costs of making the lithium safe
> aboard that will dramatically increase the investment cost. Also, in order
> to take full advantage of the perks of lithium you need to be able to
> efficiently charge the system. This means a substantial solar array or very
> high output alternator (often requiring serpentine belts and larger
> pulleys). *For the weekend sailor or anyone tied to a dock most of their
> season, these costs cannot be justified over conventional lead-acid or AGM
> technology.*
>
> My wife and I live aboard and spend our entire season on anchor or
> mooring. This is where lithium shines. We have 720 watts of solar and 320
> Ah of lithium. *We run a fridge, separate freezer, fans, computers,
> microwave, electric kettle, with enough excess power each day to either
> make 6 gallons of hot water through the inverter or run a 5000 BTU air
> conditioner on high for 5 hours through the night.* We have all the
> luxuries of home and are never concerned about running out of power.
>
> *The details:*
>
> The Battleborn, Dakota, and Renogy batteries that advertise *a "drop-in"
> replacement for lead-acid should never be used on a boat*. These were
> designed for van-lifers who can pull over and escape if something goes
> horribly wrong.
>
> The key with lithium is that you need to protect both your boat and
> its electronics and your substantial investment in batteries. Lithium
> bat

Stus-List Re: anyone gone lithium?

[Riley Anderson via CnC-List]

Hi Joe and any others interested in this topic.

I install lithium batteries as my side job and after installing lithium on
our 38-ii and other large boats and consulting on another half dozen boats,
I can speak with some authority on this topic.

*The risk of serious electrical or fire damage can be entirely mitigated by
properly installing the right equipment and following a strict circuit
topology. Most people who have installed lithium do not do this and this is
precisely why we hear about "lithium fires" so commonly.*

Before diving into the details, you should be aware that in order to safely
install lithium batteries on a boat, you need to buy top-quality gear that
is compatible with the exact lithium chemistry of your batteries. Can you
use an AGM charge profile from the old charger you have lying around? Sure,
you may be willing to take more risks than others but this is not
acceptable in a professional install and it also reduces the efficiency of
your expensive batteries that you bought for their high efficiency in the
first place! It is these "indirect" costs of making the lithium safe aboard
that will dramatically increase the investment cost. Also, in order to take
full advantage of the perks of lithium you need to be able to efficiently
charge the system. This means a substantial solar array or very high output
alternator (often requiring serpentine belts and larger pulleys). *For the
weekend sailor or anyone tied to a dock most of their season, these costs
cannot be justified over conventional lead-acid or AGM technology.*

My wife and I live aboard and spend our entire season on anchor or mooring.
This is where lithium shines. We have 720 watts of solar and 320 Ah of
lithium. *We run a fridge, separate freezer, fans, computers, microwave,
electric kettle, with enough excess power each day to either make 6 gallons
of hot water through the inverter or run a 5000 BTU air conditioner on high
for 5 hours through the night.* We have all the luxuries of home and are
never concerned about running out of power.

*The details:*

The Battleborn, Dakota, and Renogy batteries that advertise *a "drop-in"
replacement for lead-acid should never be used on a boat*. These were
designed for van-lifers who can pull over and escape if something goes
horribly wrong.

The key with lithium is that you need to protect both your boat and
its electronics and your substantial investment in batteries. Lithium
batteries will not tolerate overcharging, this is where the fire risk comes
in. On the other hand, over-discharging will not cause a fire risk but will
destroy your battery. The "drop-in" replacement batteries "solve" this by
disconnecting their terminals in the case of either overcharge or
over-discharge. This is unacceptable on a boat for two reasons: 1) most
obviously, if you lose all DC power underway, you no longer have VHF,
depth, chartplotter, bilge pumps, radar, etc. 2) if the alternator is
spinning but there is no battery to accept the charge, it will send
unregulated voltage through the entire electrical system.

The proper way to install lithium involves implementing a dual-DC bus
topology where all of the charge sources come into a single "charge bus"
and all of the loads run on a separate "load bus". Victron Energy is the
only company with off-the-shelf batteries and related components to
implement such a system. Of course, the savy DIYer can build their own
lithium banks and program a compatible battery management system to achieve
a similar end result but this involves a serious appreciation for the
nuances of lithium and circuitry design. Essentially, a battery management
system (BMS) will both balance the individual cells in a battery and
measure the voltage of each cell. If any single cell reaches its upper
voltage threshold value, the BMS triggers a relay to disconnect the charge
bus and prevent overcharging (keep in mind, there are other steps necessary
to protect alternators, I'll come back to this later). If any cell reaches
its lower voltage threshold, the BMS similarly triggers a relay
disconnecting the load bus to prevent over-discharge. The separation of
charge and load busses is critical as it allows the system to recover on
its own. In the event of a low-voltage disconnect, the charge bus remains
connected and the battery can recharge. In a high-voltage disconnect, the
loads are still connected and can bring the battery back down to a safer
voltage.

To charge lithium from an alternator, you need a lead-acid or AGM in
between to act as a buffer (most commonly, this can be your starter
battery). The alternator charges the lead battery. Connected to the lead
battery is a DC-DC charger that is capable of three-stage charging with
LiFePO4 charge profiles. This charger then runs into the charge bus
mentioned above. The Victron Energy Orion Smart charger
 is a great choice here (Bluetooth programmable
and automatically detects when the engine is running so that you 

Stus-List Re: Baby stay vs new headsail

[Riley Anderson via CnC-List]

Interesting. Our 38-ii had a babystay but it was removed by the previous
owner. I've been told by a local rigger that the babystay does not support
the mast in any significant manner, but rather adds bend for going upwind.
Then again, our boat also had a hydraulic backstay adjuster (also for
adding bend). Does anyone else have both a babystay and hydraulic adjuster?
Charlie's anecdote makes it sound like the babystay was acting as an
auxiliary lower shroud. I just assumed that without a bulkhead mounted
chainplate, the babystay couldn't possibly be relied upon as a shroud.

We've only had our boat out in 18 knots (first reef in main, 120 genoa).
Rig was very stiff in these conditions without a babystay or hydraulic
adjuster. I keep the Dyneema shrouds pretty tight.

On Thu, Sep 2, 2021 at 9:55 AM Richard Bush via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Peter, unless you sail in a heavy air area, just don't use the baby stay;
> we bungee ours to the mast and it makes no difference at all; except that
> the crew is a lot less stressed out during tacksI am confident that if
> it were removed, no one would even notice...!
>
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C  CB: Ohio River, Mile 596;
>
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Peter McMinn via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: petemcm...@gmail.com
> Sent: Thu, Sep 2, 2021 12:29 am
> Subject: Stus-List Baby stay vs new headsail
>
> We’ve been sailing this summer with two exhausted composite headsails
> (110&125) purchased with our 37, Sirius.
> The leeches on both sails reveal a tortured past with the babystay. With a
> new Precision tiradial 120 coming over winter, we’re practicing tacks with
> no babystay contact, backwinding lightly to pull the sail over.
> Improvement needed.
> For those of you with babystays, what strategies do you employ to avoid
> sail contact with the stay and/or minimizing damage?
> I’ll search archives, too. Thx
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks -
> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu



-- 
Fair winds and following seas,

Charlotte Freeland & Riley Anderson
SV Freight Train
Middletown, CT USA
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Another Solar question

[Riley Anderson via CnC-List]

Just to clarify some of the half answers posted previously:

The wires from the panels to the charge controller must be sized to handle
the short circuit current of the entire array (additive if parallel array).
Because the maximum current under normal conditions is often ~95% of short
circuit current, it is essentially impossible to fuse this side with the
industry standard 25% safety factor without having the fuse blow
prematurely under normal conditions.

The most critical fuse/breaker is on the battery side of the charge
controller as the battery bank has a much larger potential to dump high
current in a short circuit. This fuse/breaker should be mounted to the
charge bus (if available) or as close as possible to the battery.

However, it is not a bad idea to have a dual pull breaker between panel and
charge controller sized at 10-15% > short circuit current. The main purpose
of this breaker is to be able to safely disconnect the panels for
maintenance or replacement.

To the original poster:
How large is your battery bank and how old is it? Lead acid or gel? How
large is the solar panel?

Knowing these paramater can help us narrow down the likely problems.

My guess, is that the most likely cause is you had days of cloudy skies
after the hurricane and weren't getting any charge. Or your battery bank
may be small or aging and unable to accept a trickle charge anymore.


On Sun, Aug 29, 2021, 8:44 PM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> My 175w and 50w are fused for the gauge of the cable, directly adjacent to
> the controller.  This is per the renogy manual I believe.   12 awg solar
> cable would be likely fused at 20a (assumes 105deg rated insulation) which
> at our 20vdc would translate to a BIG 400w panel.  (C 65?)   These bigger
> panels are typically 48vdc I believe so the current stays modest.   anyway
> - no need to fuse at the solar panel.
>
> The batteries are connected in parallel with copper bus bars and the
> positive wires are protected with cube fuses at the battery.  (Both solar
> and shore power Chargers and the cables to the battery switch)
>
> Dave 33-2
>
> Dave
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 29, 2021, at 7:47 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
>
> I have that end covered. Proper fuses right at the battery terminals. And
> the solar panel is tied to the controller, not the batteries themselves.
> But there is some 25’ of cable from the panel to the controller and I
> always wonder if that part should be protected as well. The solar panel is
> only 50 W, so it cannot produce too much current (and too much heat). But I
> wonder what it the proper way to connect it and protect it.
>
>
>
> Marek
>
>
>
> *From:* Ken Heaton via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Sunday, August 29, 2021 6:26 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Ken Heaton 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Another Solar question
>
>
>
> Really, should there be a short or other electrical failure, the big
> source of current that would heat up and burn up the wires and possibly set
> the boat on fire, would be the boat's house or starting battery bank.  So
> the fuse should be as close as possible to where the wires from the solar
> panels tie into larger wires or bus bars (or the batteries if wired
> direct to the battery bank).  As close as 6 inches if possible.
>
>
>
> Ken H.
>
>
>
> On Sun, 29 Aug 2021 at 19:19, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I have a simple question - the fuse is there to protect the wire; so, the
> fuse should be as close to the solar panel as possible, shouldn't it? Where
> would you put it? Outside, next to the panel? Or inside, as soon as the
> wire goes through the deck?
>
>
>
> I bet there are some rules of thumb.
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Marek
>
> 1994 C270 Legato
>
> Ottawa ON
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Insurance survey cost

[Riley Anderson via CnC-List]

Hi all,

Can any listers provide the cost of insurance surveys for boats in the 38'
range? I'd like to know what others have paid and if you have
recommendations for particular surveyors around Old Saybrook, CT.

Thanks in advance,
Riley
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] clogged head hoses

[Riley Anderson via CnC-List]

Doug,

Check out this thread on Cruisersforum
. I
wrote up the build process for my custom holding tank here (username RMA).
I was in the same position. Fortunately, the previous owner had already
ripped out the head and all hoses/tank, so I was starting with a blank
slate. I went with Raritan

Sani Flex hose

for everything. It is probably the best sanitation hose on the market.
Butyl rubber with double helix reinforcement. It is very flexible and easy
to work with. 10 year warranty and it's only $9/ft at Defender.

Best of luck,

On Mon, May 3, 2021 at 2:56 PM Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm in the process of replacing worst hoses. But trying to eliminate
> having to do this again.
> I had heard about vinager, but I'd also heard it didn't work. I trust the
> answers on this list more so than some other sources.
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
>
> Doug Mountjoy
> Port Orchard YC
> Port Orchard,  WA
> Rebecca Leah
> 1988 LF39
>
>
>  Original message 
> From: "Della Barba, Joe" 
> Date: 5/3/21 09:46 (GMT-08:00)
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Doug Mountjoy 
> Subject: RE: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List clogged head hoses
>
> Vinegar is your friend.
>
> At this point you will be replacing them or beating the hell out of them
> on the dock, they sound too far gone for vinegar.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *Joe Della Barba*
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> *From:* Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, May 3, 2021 12:33 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Doug Mountjoy 
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List clogged head hoses
>
>
>
> Good Morning All,
>
>
>
> I am in the process of replacing my Stainless steel holding tank, due to
> holes that are a result of corrosion. This is requiring me to make one out
> of fiberglass. No one makes a tank this size and shape needed. This led me
> to checking the hoses for condition. I found that the hoses from the toilet
> to tank are severely clogged. Not sure how any fluid was getting through.
> Currently with the aft cabin torn apart my boat is unusable for anything,
> including living aboard, which I am.
>
>
>
> My question is this. What does everyone use to help keep the lines clear?
> Do you pull them out every few years and clean them? Is there a chemical
> that I can flush down that will help keep them clean?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Doug
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> Douglas Mountjoy
> 253-208-1412
>
> Port Orchard YC, WA
>
> Rebecca Leah
>
> C LandFall 39
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu



-- 
Fair winds and following seas,

Charlotte Freeland & Riley Anderson
SV Freight Train
Middletown, CT USA
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Lee Christiansen

[Riley Anderson via CnC-List]

I'm trying to reach Lee Christiansen, I don't have your email and can't
message you through eBay. Please email me at rmander...@wesleyan.edu

Sorry for the mass message everyone.

-- 
Fair winds and following seas,

Charlotte Freeland & Riley Anderson
SV Freight Train
Middletown, CT USA
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Navtec Hydraulic backstay adjuster, soon to be free

[Riley Anderson via CnC-List]

Thanks for your comment, Jeff. I agree that adjuster failure at sea would
be suboptimal (putting it lightly). This is partly why I've opted to get
rid of mine entirely. Nothing really beats the reliability of a turnbuckle.
My boat doesn't race so a static backstay with no moving parts, seals, UV
susceptible components seems like the safest way to go.

On Mon, Apr 19, 2021 at 10:31 AM Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi all -- I have been following this integral hydraulic backstay adjuster
> discussion with interest as my NavTec - 10 just gave up and leaked all its
> fluid about a month ago.  My adjuster is a "Series 6" according to NavTec,
> manufactured in the early 80s.  NavTec does not make the seal kit anymore
> and after speaking with 3 reputable marinas, I determined it was time to
> replace the adjuster.
>
> As I understand from the previous owner and another captain familiar with
> my boat's history (this is my 4th summer owning the boat and 11th sailing
> on the boat), the NavTec - 10 seals were replaced by a local tractor repair
> shop, maybe 10 years ago.  The seals have been slow leaking for about 5
> years of the 10.  So, my experience with the tractor repair approach is not
> good.  NavTec (biased), SailTec (not biased) and both reputable marinas (a
> little biased, but not much) told me that repairing at a local tractor
> repair is a big mistake -- they do not know how to do it correctly even if
> they claim they do.  Torresen's in Muskegon had the adjuster for about a
> week and would have repaired for $400 by trained technicians -- not a bad
> price for this level of repair.  I only offer this story as a caution to
> others -- be very careful what you do and who you hire for rebuilding.   If
> my adjuster had failed while in use, it would have been a pure disaster and
> I am very glad it happened on the hard this spring.  My new SailTec- 10
> arrived this morning and I am very happy to have a new adjuster, in spite
> of blowing most of my 2021 boat budget before the season even starts.
>
> So, a question -- do any of the listers know where one can still purchase
> the seal kit for a series 6 Navtec - 10?
>
> Jeff Laman
> 1981 C "Harmony"
> Ludington, MI
>
>
>
> --
> *From:* Gary Newton via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, April 19, 2021 8:35 AM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Gary Newton 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Navtec Hydraulic backstay adjuster, soon to be
> free
>
> Has anyone rebuilt a Sailtec hydraulic backstay adjuster? I have one that
> was on my 1987 35 mkIII. It is a -10 Standard.
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Apr 17, 2021, at 5:26 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
>
> As Charlie points out, just about any hydraulics shop (and most farm
> implement, forklift, or construction machinery dealers) can rebuild a
> Navtec backstay adjuster. And based on 22 years in the forklift business,
> $260 would be at the high end of what I would estimate for the cost,
> depending on your cylinder. After all, it is just a small hydraulic
> cylinder, and maybe some make on demand hoses and a relatively low pressure
> pump.
>
>
>
> Hydraulics shop would be the best starting point because the job would be
> too small for most dealers, and it would take time.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* cenelson via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> *Sent:* Thursday, April 15, 2021 6:06 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* cenelson 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Navtec Hydraulic backstay adjuster, soon to be
> free
>
>
>
> I had mine rebuilt at a local hydraulic shop (lots of farmer implements
> use hydraulics) about 8 yrs ago for $260.
>
>
>
> Still no leaks—!
>
>
>
> Charlie Nelson
>
>
>
>
> Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
> <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fapps.apple.com%2Fus%2Fapp%2Faol-news-email-weather-video%2Fid646100661=04%7C01%7C%7C1dfe2bda4333436162ea08d9032fbaba%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637544325788878576%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000=x%2FBN%2F72QaeBnlCOsyJdDEU9B0iJtdzLmkyaGUdnLrRk%3D=0>
>
> On Thursday, April 15, 2021, 5:54 PM, Riley Anderson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
>
>
> I'm getting rid of my Navtec backstay adjuster, it needs a rebuild ($620
> from Navtec). I put it on eBay for cheap, but I'm only going to leave the
> listing up for a month. If it doesn't sell in that time, consider it free
> to any lister who wants it. My guess is shipping

Stus-List Re: Navtec Hydraulic backstay adjuster, soon to be free

[Riley Anderson via CnC-List]

Charlie, that's good to hear. Did you also have to buy the seal kit or did
the hydraulic shop have what you need?

On Thu, Apr 15, 2021 at 6:06 PM cenelson via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I had mine rebuilt at a local hydraulic shop (lots of farmer implements
> use hydraulics) about 8 yrs ago for $260.
>
> Still no leaks—!
>
> Charlie Nelson
>
>
>
> Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
> <https://apps.apple.com/us/app/aol-news-email-weather-video/id646100661>
>
> On Thursday, April 15, 2021, 5:54 PM, Riley Anderson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
> I'm getting rid of my Navtec backstay adjuster, it needs a rebuild ($620
> from Navtec). I put it on eBay for cheap, but I'm only going to leave the
> listing up for a month. If it doesn't sell in that time, consider it free
> to any lister who wants it. My guess is shipping should be about $30-40.
> The model number is IA7-10, pulled it from my 1976 38-ii. Navtec says these
> are from 1989-1999.
>
> Here is the link to the listing if you just can't wait.
> <http://ebay.us/I6lSrO?cmpnId=5338273189> Photos are on the listing.
>
> --
> Fair winds and following seas,
>
> Charlotte Freeland & Riley Anderson
> SV Freight Train
> Middletown, CT USA
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks -
> Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu



-- 
Fair winds and following seas,

Charlotte Freeland & Riley Anderson
SV Freight Train
Middletown, CT USA
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Navtec Hydraulic backstay adjuster, soon to be free

[Riley Anderson via CnC-List]

Hello all,

I'm getting rid of my Navtec backstay adjuster, it needs a rebuild ($620
from Navtec). I put it on eBay for cheap, but I'm only going to leave the
listing up for a month. If it doesn't sell in that time, consider it free
to any lister who wants it. My guess is shipping should be about $30-40.
The model number is IA7-10, pulled it from my 1976 38-ii. Navtec says these
are from 1989-1999.

Here is the link to the listing if you just can't wait.
 Photos are on the listing.

-- 
Fair winds and following seas,

Charlotte Freeland & Riley Anderson
SV Freight Train
Middletown, CT USA
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Raymarine RD424 Radar Free!!!

[Riley Anderson via CnC-List]

It has one cable that I'd guess is about 40' long that plugged into the
e80(?) chart plotter. It was cut about 10" from the chartplotter. I have
both ends of the cable but it will need to be spliced.

No idea the shipping cost but my guess is a lot (probably at least $100).
Weighs about 35 lbs plus packaging. And it's huge! 24" in diameter. Text me
if you're seriously interested (860) 538-8446. If multiple requests, the
first to send Stu $20 will take it.

On Tue, Apr 13, 2021 at 4:51 PM Lee Goss  wrote:

> Hi Riley,
>
> I'll happily take it off your hands if you're offering :)
>
> V. best,
> Lee
>
> On Tue, 13 Apr 2021 at 15:06, Riley Anderson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Giving away a Raymarine RD424, at least that's what I think it is. Was
>> helping a friend with his recently purchased Cal 28 and he just wanted it
>> gone. He cut the cable at the chart plotter side and gave it to me thinking
>> I could use it. These radars aren't compatible with the new chart plotters
>> so it is useless to me. I want it gone and can't bring myself to just throw
>> it in the trash. Pickup in Haddam, CT, or pay to ship.
>>
>> --
>> Fair winds and following seas,
>>
>> Charlotte Freeland & Riley Anderson
>> SV Freight Train
>> Middletown, CT USA
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
>

-- 
Fair winds and following seas,

Charlotte Freeland & Riley Anderson
SV Freight Train
Middletown, CT USA
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Raymarine RD424 Radar Free!!!

[Riley Anderson via CnC-List]

Giving away a Raymarine RD424, at least that's what I think it is. Was
helping a friend with his recently purchased Cal 28 and he just wanted it
gone. He cut the cable at the chart plotter side and gave it to me thinking
I could use it. These radars aren't compatible with the new chart plotters
so it is useless to me. I want it gone and can't bring myself to just throw
it in the trash. Pickup in Haddam, CT, or pay to ship.

-- 
Fair winds and following seas,

Charlotte Freeland & Riley Anderson
SV Freight Train
Middletown, CT USA
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: water tanks interconnected, or not?

[Riley Anderson via CnC-List]

The iSeries seems like a good product but for that price, you might as well
go for a Victron Cerbo GX , it will read 4
resistive tank senders, 4 temperature sensors, 4 digital inputs (bilge
alarms, open hatches, engine data, etc.), can integrate with all CAN bus
systems including chargers, inverters, battery monitors, and it can
communicate with NMEA2000 devices. All data is recorded and uploaded to
your Victron VRM account (free) and can be accessed anywhere in the world
(with WiFi connection). I use mine to monitor all the water tanks and the
holding tank. It has a programmable relay output and I have mine set to
disable the electric head when the holding tank is full so that it can't be
overfilled. The possibilities are endless.

On Wed, Mar 31, 2021 at 12:11 PM Don Marlin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We use this on our 40.
> The 40 has dual 30G water tanks.
> https://tankedge.com/products.html
>
> I also use it on my holding tank.
> All the tanks are the original Poly.
>
> Been installed for 2 years, I like it.
> Works fine and did not break the bank.
>
>
> On Wed, Mar 31, 2021 at 11:38 AM Peter McMinn via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Thanks for the ideas. I used my dinghy foot pump to blow out the vent on
>> the port tank, which resulted in increased flow from that tank. I think I
>> need to replace the senders in both tanks to get accurate readings on tank
>> levels. Neighbor on the dock suggests a Tank Tender. Any suggestions?
>>
>> Peter McMinn
>>
>>  _/)
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Mar 24, 2021 at 6:32 AM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> This sounds likely – My usual fix for fixing the prime in the water pump
>>> in the spring was to bring a hose on board and blast water into the tank
>>> drain, up to the faucet – this would also blast over to the other tank, and
>>> likely blow out whatever crud was in the line. Then vacuum out that tank
>>> and clean.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Bill Coleman
>>>
>>> Entrada, Erie, PA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Something is preventing the free flow of water from one of the tanks.
>>> It could be;
>>>
>>>  - a clog in the hose from the tank to the tee,
>>>
>>>  - maybe a valve, somewhere in that line that is closed,
>>>
>>>  - it could be the vent is plugged solid, creating a vacuum.  Which does
>>> not allow the water to flow.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Given that there is very little head pressure to overcome the vacuum, it
>>> wouldn't necessarily take too much of a plug on either side to stop the
>>> water flow.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Danny
>>>
>>> -- Original Message --
>>> From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
>>> To: "'Stus-List'" 
>>> Cc: Rick Brass 
>>> Subject: Stus-List Re: water tanks interconnected, or not?
>>> Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2021 23:37:40 -0400
>>>
>>> My 38 also has a tank under the port and starboard settees. Each of the
>>> tanks has a shutoff valve at the outlet. The two drain hoses meet at a T
>>> under the floorboards, and from this T is the line to the pressure pump.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Curiously, there is also a shutoff valve on each side of the T. I could
>>> see no good purpose for the second shutoff in each supply line (unless it
>>> was there to stop all the water from leaking out through a broken line), so
>>> I left them in place when I replaced the hoses a while back.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Maybe you have an arrangement like this one?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Rick Brass
>>>
>>> Washington, NC
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* Adam Hayden via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
>>> *Sent:* Monday, March 22, 2021 7:14 AM
>>> *To:* Stus-List 
>>> *Cc:* petemcm...@gmail.com; Adam Hayden 
>>> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: water tanks interconnected, or not?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Peter
>>>
>>> Very interesting.  I have the same issue except my port tank drains and
>>> the Starboard tank does not.
>>>
>>> Drives me crazy.
>>>
>>> Adam c 36
>>>
>>> Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network.
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>>
>>> *From:* Peter McMinn via CnC-List 
>>> *Sent:* Monday, March 22, 2021 3:55:08 AM
>>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>>> *Cc:* petemcm...@gmail.com 
>>> *Subject:* Stus-List water tanks interconnected, or not?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I have a 30gal water tank under both settees. The valves for each are
>>> set to open flow. However, the pump seems to draw only from the starboard
>>> side. I’d assumed that with both valves open, the tanks would equalize, but
>>> the stbd tank empties and the pump goes dry, while the port tank remains
>>> full. Can someone venture to what’s going on? I’ve read this 2015
>>> discussion
>>> ,
>>> but the OP then was interested in disconnecting the two tanks. I’ll do some
>>> exploring tomorrow to see what might be preventing the tanks from

Stus-List Re: C 40 rigging

[Riley Anderson via CnC-List]

FWIW, our 1976 38-ii was partially rerigged in 2013. The previous owner
swapped all of the shrouds for Dyneema and new turnbuckles. The forestay
was replaced with wire before the PO bought it. Probably around the time
the harken furler was installed (my guess is 2003-2006). The backstay is
still rod and I believe it is original. The hydraulic tensioner just failed
last season and I replaced it with a Dyneema cascade using some of
Colligo's Dyneema fittings but the amount of force need to tension it was
insane. This year I'm just putting in a large turnbuckle and a stay
extender. We don't race so it might as well be static.

The Dyneema shrouds are still in excellent shape. They need tuning every
season but it isn't hard to do. Our stays are the heat-set Dyneema which is
pricey but I've always imagined one could build their entire rig from
oversized standard Dyneema and just pay more attention to tensioning it as
it stretches (strength is not the issue, elongation is the problem).
Defender always has cheap offcuts of 12-15mm Dyneema in lengths up to 60'
for dirt cheap (~$35). You have to go into the store to find these,
however, as they don't sell them online.

Best of luck,

On Thu, Mar 25, 2021 at 4:13 PM Alan Liles via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> When I refit my 37/40 the riggers wouldn’t touch it; too old. I replaced
> all the standing rigging and fittings. It was just shy of $20k Canadian.
>
> Cheers, Al
>
>
> On Mar 25, 2021, at 1:07 PM, David Risch via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> For the Marion Bermuda race 2009, 2011 and 2015 my original rigging on my
> 1981 40-2 (I think its original) had to be surveyed for the race rider.
> Passed each time.   But I doubt they would let go again.   Locally.  I have
> absolute confidence in the rig.  Out there the loads can be incredible and
> would plan on finally replacing it, or at least totally deconstructing and
> x-raying it with a rigging blessing.   Mostly the issues are in heads.
>
>
>
> *From:* Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 25, 2021 4:01 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Joel Aronson 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: C 40 rigging
>
>
>
> It is also an insurance issue.  Many times a rigging inspection is
> required.
>
>
>
> Joel
>
>
>
> On Thu, Mar 25, 2021 at 4:00 PM Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> In my opinion, this is just a money making scheme.  Has anyone ever heard
> of a rig failure of rod rigging?  My boatyard hasn’t and they were C
> dealers a long time ago.
>
>
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Boyer
>
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
>
> Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>
> Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>
> Annapolis, MD
>
> (Presently in Baltimore MD for the summer)
>
>
>
> On Mar 25, 2021, at 3:36 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I had mine inspected and some reheaded about five years ago on my 1981
> 40. We had to replace the D3/V2 because when it was reheaded the fitting
> where it went around the spreader would have been in a different place. I
> think we replaced some turnbuckles, too. Just did something similar with my
> 1995 Baltic two years ago. I am pretty sure you will not have to replace
> all the rod. The area to really look at is the spreader tips and the
> fittings there.
>
>
>
> Andy
>
> Andrew Burton
>
> 26 Beacon Hill
>
> Newport, RI
>
> USA02840
>
>
>
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>
> +401 965-5260
>
>
> On Mar 25, 2021, at 14:59, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Ran into a snag:
>
> The rigging shop I called told me rod rigging from 1981 was NOT going to
> pass their survey just from age and some the fittings used back then could
> not be inspected, taking them apart is a one-way trip. Does anyone have an
> idea on the longevity of rod and the cost to replace it all?
>
> It doesn’t have to be rod again, does it? Dynaform wire or Dyneema maybe?
>
>
>
>
>
> Joe Della Barba
>
> Coquina C 35 MK I
>
> Kent Island MD USA
>
>
>
>
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> Joel
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   

Stus-List Re: windlass battery under vee-berth

[Riley Anderson via CnC-List]

I have to disagree with Dave. A lithium battery for the windlass would be a
huge waste of money and drastically overcomplicate things.
Lithium batteries are great but require substantial alterations to the
boat's electrical system. Even for the windlass application, precautions
need to be taken. A "drop-in" style lithium battery could work in this
application (definitely not as the boat's primary bank) but even that would
add unnecessary risk and expense. With a "drop-in" LiFePO4 (Battleborn,
Renogy, Dakota, etc), the battery still needs a dedicated DC-DC converter
(battery-to-battery charger) to safely charge at the battery's voltage and
current limits. These style batteries disconnect themselves internally in
case of over or undercharged events. This is not what you want if you have
to pull up the anchor in an emergency. Plus these batteries start at around
$600 for a 12V 60Ah.  You can find more details on the limitations and
design requirements of lithium aboard by reading my (username RMA)
contributions to this thread

on Cruisersforum.

The correct solution is to buy the appropriately sized

marine cable to run the windlass back to your house bank. I ripped out the
forward windlass battery on my 38 the moment I bought the boat and ran 3/0
the entire distance. Buy your cable by the 100' roll and save a fortune.
You can use the excess when you decide to upgrade your house bank to
LiFePO4 or install a larger inverter/charger. I bought mine at
wireandcableyourway

and
paid ~$330 including shipping for Ancor brand marine tinned 3/0.

On Mon, Mar 15, 2021 at 10:09 PM Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Or  use a lithium battery which doesn’t need to be vented, can be
> oriented in any direction, and would likely weigh less than the incremental
> heavy gauge cabling run required by the windlass  connection to the
> charger could be much smaller depending on the expected charging rate, and
> dod is greater, requiring a lower a/h rated (smaller) battery for the
> equivalent usable capacity.
>
> Charge via a small dc:dc charger off the house system.
> https://ca.renogy.com/renogy-12v-dc-to-dc-on-board-battery-charger/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwi7yCBhDJARIsAMWFScNT2ifqnsnfIeF-stcBCY7Z0uqGfL40x2HY83wccuRItirzuy_Ap_QaAhnoEALw_wcB
>
> Dave   33-2
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 15, 2021, at 9:13 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
> Pete,
>
> Since I’m not on the criteria list of having mounted a battery for the
> windless in the bow/v-berth area  on our 1982 37’ I thought I’d weigh in
> anyway. Apologies in advance but I have to agree with Josh.
>
> I mounted a Lewmar windlass on a shelf in the anchor locker. I thought
> quite a bit about doing what you are thinking about. And discarded the idea
> pretty quickly.
>
> I didn’t want to add any more weight to dragging down the fine entry of
> our boats. Anchor chain was enough. I didn’t want to add another battery to
> the existing system. I’ve already done enough fabrication on the boat so
> wanted to avoid that too. I didn’t want to think about charging the battery
> that far forward either.
>
> I settled on just running large cable from the house bank in the port
> locker to the windless along the port hull to the anchor locker with
> waterproof glands through the bulkhead. The breaker switch is located to
> port (next to existing battery switch location) at the base of the
> companionway steps. The solenoid for the control switches are mounted up
> under deck, to port in the anchor locker.
>
> Just my $0.02.
>
> Pictures of installation available upon request.
>
> Best regards,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> 1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas Point 34 - Katana
>
> P.S. Our powerboat deals with powering the windless in the same fashion.
>
> On Mar 15, 2021, at 7:13 PM, Peter McMinn via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hey all,
>
> As I prepare to mount a new windlass on my ‘85 37, I intend to install a
> new AGM 12v on the centerline just aft of the holding tank. There is plenty
> of room here for a battery platform and accessibility is fair. I’ve done my
> homework on voltage drop, cable size, etc. but if you have specific
> experience on a 37 with a fwd-mounted battery, I’m mostly ears.
>
> My question relates to ventilation. The under-berth space is fairly large,
> but I know AGMs need to gas and I don’t want to create a hazard. Any
> suggestions for adding an adequate vent to this area?
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
>
> Thanks to all of the 

Stus-List Re: Will Defender have it's annual sale?

[Riley Anderson via CnC-List]

No sale this year. Just went in the other day and asked. The issue is that
they're still struggling to fill their inventory. Many manufacturers are at
reduced capacity these days. If you walk around in there, you'll see half
empty shelves.

On Wed, Mar 3, 2021, 9:09 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Anybody know if Defender will have it's annual sale in March?
>
> Chuck
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Bilge monitor

[Riley Anderson via CnC-List]

Bob,

Yes, you are correct. Internet connectivity is the limiting factor in a
system like this. The Cerbo that I recommend does lots more than monitor
your bilge so there are other reasons to use such a device. For any kind of
remote monitoring, you'll be tethered to an internet connection.

On Tue, Mar 2, 2021 at 3:58 PM Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> All this depends on a reliable WIFI connection, right?  Do you think your
> bilge pump switch, for example, is more or less reliable than your onboard
> WIFI connection?
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Boyer
> s/v Rainy Days
> C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230)
> (Spending winters in warm places, and summers on the Chesapeake Bay)
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
>
> On Mar 2, 2021, at 1:43 PM, Riley Anderson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> 
> Len, I'm installing a Victron Cerbo GX. It can do everything you're asking
> and will transmit data remotely to the Victron VRM app/website. It needs an
> internet connection. Either wifi or hardwired. Victron also sells a GSM
> device with a SIM card (~$12/month) if you don't want to rely on marina
> wifi.
>
> Here is the Victron Cerbo GX: https://amzn.to/2OfIPxc and technical data
> <https://www.victronenergy.com/panel-systems-remote-monitoring/cerbo-gx>.
> It can do a lot. Just depends on how fancy you want to get. You can email
> me if you have more questions.
>
> You can also build your own with a raspberry pi and the open-source Venus
> OS from Victron. It's the same software they use on the Cerbo but you'll
> have to be pretty software savvy to make it do everything you want. Here is
> a link to the Venus OS GitHub page:
> https://github.com/victronenergy/venus/wiki
>
> Hope this helps,
> Cheers
> Riley
>
> On Tue, Mar 2, 2021 at 11:31 AM Len Mitchell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> With all this talk about bilge pumps I am looking at a way to monitor the
>> boat when I am not there. Has anyone bought or built a monitor? It looks
>> possible with a Raspberry Pi computer. I would like to monitor battery bank
>> voltage, bilge pump cycles or bilge water level and refrigerator
>> temperature. You could go farther and monitor tank levels or install a cctv
>> camera too. I am interested in any experience on this. I am not opposed to
>> using an old laptop, iPad or tablet if that is more robust.
>>
>>
>> https://medium.com/initial-state/how-to-monitor-your-boat-during-the-winter-months-d89f7d76a88d
>>
>>
>> Len Mitchell
>>
>> S/V Crazy Legs
>>
>> 1989 C 37+
>>
>> Midland On.
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help
>> with the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks - Stu
>
>
>
> --
> Fair winds and following seas,
>
> Charlotte Freeland & Riley Anderson
> SV Freight Train
> Middletown, CT USA
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu
>
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu



-- 
Fair winds and following seas,

Charlotte Freeland & Riley Anderson
SV Freight Train
Middletown, CT USA
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Bilge monitor

[Riley Anderson via CnC-List]

Len, I'm installing a Victron Cerbo GX. It can do everything you're asking
and will transmit data remotely to the Victron VRM app/website. It needs an
internet connection. Either wifi or hardwired. Victron also sells a GSM
device with a SIM card (~$12/month) if you don't want to rely on marina
wifi.

Here is the Victron Cerbo GX: https://amzn.to/2OfIPxc and technical data
.
It can do a lot. Just depends on how fancy you want to get. You can email
me if you have more questions.

You can also build your own with a raspberry pi and the open-source Venus
OS from Victron. It's the same software they use on the Cerbo but you'll
have to be pretty software savvy to make it do everything you want. Here is
a link to the Venus OS GitHub page:
https://github.com/victronenergy/venus/wiki

Hope this helps,
Cheers
Riley

On Tue, Mar 2, 2021 at 11:31 AM Len Mitchell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> With all this talk about bilge pumps I am looking at a way to monitor the
> boat when I am not there. Has anyone bought or built a monitor? It looks
> possible with a Raspberry Pi computer. I would like to monitor battery bank
> voltage, bilge pump cycles or bilge water level and refrigerator
> temperature. You could go farther and monitor tank levels or install a cctv
> camera too. I am interested in any experience on this. I am not opposed to
> using an old laptop, iPad or tablet if that is more robust.
>
>
> https://medium.com/initial-state/how-to-monitor-your-boat-during-the-winter-months-d89f7d76a88d
>
>
> Len Mitchell
>
> S/V Crazy Legs
>
> 1989 C 37+
>
> Midland On.
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks
> - Stu



-- 
Fair winds and following seas,

Charlotte Freeland & Riley Anderson
SV Freight Train
Middletown, CT USA
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu