Re: Stus-List Keel repair

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

That sounds like Wal’s deal, back in 2005 I think.

— Fred



Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Nov 22, 2015, at 4:40 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I heard of that technique with keel scrubbing but using a wire brush with 
> epoxy to really get into the lead. I think that came from Gougeon originally, 
> but I don't know who first mentioned it on this forum. 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Keel repair

[Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List]

This is what I did.  strip the antifouling ( Interlux 299 ), cleaned again and 
again with Interlux 202 ( and acetone), then applied West epoxy, and later on 5 
layers of Interprotect ( because I did the whole bottom with Interprotect.That 
was in 1997 and still like it was 18 years ago.
And antifouling sticks very well, never peeled, I just keep adding VC17 once 
every 2 years.My rudder was redone so it doesn't have Interprotect, just plain 
epoxy, and I need to touch-up the VC17 in addition of the occasional full  
layer. But there is more water turbulence on the rudder so that probably 
explain the need to touch-up.
SylvainC&C27 MkIII
  From: Jim Watts via CnC-List 
 To: 1 CnC List  
Cc: Jim Watts 
 Sent: Sunday, November 22, 2015 5:40 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel repair
   
I heard of that technique with keel scrubbing but using a wire brush with epoxy 
to really get into the lead. I think that came from Gougeon originally, but I 
don't know who first mentioned it on this forum. 

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 22 November 2015 at 08:24, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:



David,

IMO, the leading edge is subject to impact from "stuff" in the water.  In my 
area after a big rain event, I see all sorts of things in the lake.  Just think 
it's a good practice to prepare for hitting something.

Similarly, I think a trailing edge should be repaired with high strength 
material.  Not sure about others, but Touche's keel's trailing edge is shaped 
to a fine 1/4 inch square edge.  I wanted high strength there due to the thin 
shape.

Using a lightweight fairing compound on the keel sides should fine.  Touche' 
has Awlfair to smooth and shape the sides and underbody.

If the keel has been sand to bright lead, many recommend a primer prior to 
painting.  The lead will begin to oxidize immediately so speed is apparently 
important.  The neatest technique for coating bright lead I've ever heard about 
is to apply epoxy with a scrubbing pad.  The pad removes the oxidation and 
applies the epoxy all at once.  I want to say that came from Wally but not sure.

Dennis C.



On Sun, Nov 22, 2015 at 10:03 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hi Dennis- Why would you need such a high strength material on the leading edge 
of a keel?  This seems like a pretty low stress area. I tend to think I should 
worry more about adhesion strength and the different materials have a large 
range of surface preparation procedures for adhesion to the lead.   I have 
talked to a few people about keel repair and no one has had problems with the 
repair failing and the materials have ranged from thickened epoxy with chopped 
glass to marine tex putty to lightweight epoxy putties (Interlux/pettit).  Here 
is what I have found so far on properties
Marine Tex:  tensile strength  4000 psi compression strength  13000 psi
West system epoxy resin tensile strength   7000 psi compression strength  11000 
psi
One other question- is the lead keel normally coated with something before 
bottom paint?  I am having the bottom stripped this winter and not sure if a 
primer is needed on the keel before bottom paint.Dave
On Nov 21, 2015, at 11:03 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com





___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



  ___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Keel repair

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

I heard of that technique with keel scrubbing but using a wire brush with
epoxy to really get into the lead. I think that came from Gougeon
originally, but I don't know who first mentioned it on this forum.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 22 November 2015 at 08:24, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
wrote:

> David,
>
> IMO, the leading edge is subject to impact from "stuff" in the water.  In
> my area after a big rain event, I see all sorts of things in the lake.
> Just think it's a good practice to prepare for hitting something.
>
> Similarly, I think a trailing edge should be repaired with high strength
> material.  Not sure about others, but Touche's keel's trailing edge is
> shaped to a fine 1/4 inch square edge.  I wanted high strength there due to
> the thin shape.
>
> Using a lightweight fairing compound on the keel sides should fine.
> Touche' has Awlfair to smooth and shape the sides and underbody.
>
> If the keel has been sand to bright lead, many recommend a primer prior to
> painting.  The lead will begin to oxidize immediately so speed is
> apparently important.  The neatest technique for coating bright lead I've
> ever heard about is to apply epoxy with a scrubbing pad.  The pad removes
> the oxidation and applies the epoxy all at once.  I want to say that came
> from Wally but not sure.
>
> Dennis C.
>
>
>
> On Sun, Nov 22, 2015 at 10:03 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Dennis- Why would you need such a high strength material on the
>> leading edge of a keel?  This seems like a pretty low stress area. I tend
>> to think I should worry more about adhesion strength and the different
>> materials have a large range of surface preparation procedures for adhesion
>> to the lead.   I have talked to a few people about keel repair and no one
>> has had problems with the repair failing and the materials have ranged from
>> thickened epoxy with chopped glass to marine tex putty to lightweight epoxy
>> putties (Interlux/pettit).
>> Here is what I have found so far on properties
>>
>> Marine Tex:
>> tensile strength  4000 psi
>> compression strength  13000 psi
>>
>> West system epoxy resin
>> tensile strength   7000 psi
>> compression strength  11000 psi
>>
>> One other question- is the lead keel normally coated with something
>> before bottom paint?  I am having the bottom stripped this winter and not
>> sure if a primer is needed on the keel before bottom paint.
>> Dave
>>
>> On Nov 21, 2015, at 11:03 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Keel repair

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

David,

IMO, the leading edge is subject to impact from "stuff" in the water.  In
my area after a big rain event, I see all sorts of things in the lake.
Just think it's a good practice to prepare for hitting something.

Similarly, I think a trailing edge should be repaired with high strength
material.  Not sure about others, but Touche's keel's trailing edge is
shaped to a fine 1/4 inch square edge.  I wanted high strength there due to
the thin shape.

Using a lightweight fairing compound on the keel sides should fine.
Touche' has Awlfair to smooth and shape the sides and underbody.

If the keel has been sand to bright lead, many recommend a primer prior to
painting.  The lead will begin to oxidize immediately so speed is
apparently important.  The neatest technique for coating bright lead I've
ever heard about is to apply epoxy with a scrubbing pad.  The pad removes
the oxidation and applies the epoxy all at once.  I want to say that came
from Wally but not sure.

Dennis C.



On Sun, Nov 22, 2015 at 10:03 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Dennis- Why would you need such a high strength material on the leading
> edge of a keel?  This seems like a pretty low stress area. I tend to think
> I should worry more about adhesion strength and the different materials
> have a large range of surface preparation procedures for adhesion to the
> lead.   I have talked to a few people about keel repair and no one has had
> problems with the repair failing and the materials have ranged from
> thickened epoxy with chopped glass to marine tex putty to lightweight epoxy
> putties (Interlux/pettit).
> Here is what I have found so far on properties
>
> Marine Tex:
> tensile strength  4000 psi
> compression strength  13000 psi
>
> West system epoxy resin
> tensile strength   7000 psi
> compression strength  11000 psi
>
> One other question- is the lead keel normally coated with something before
> bottom paint?  I am having the bottom stripped this winter and not sure if
> a primer is needed on the keel before bottom paint.
> Dave
>
> On Nov 21, 2015, at 11:03 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Keel repair

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis- Why would you need such a high strength material on the leading edge 
of a keel?  This seems like a pretty low stress area. I tend to think I should 
worry more about adhesion strength and the different materials have a large 
range of surface preparation procedures for adhesion to the lead.   I have 
talked to a few people about keel repair and no one has had problems with the 
repair failing and the materials have ranged from thickened epoxy with chopped 
glass to marine tex putty to lightweight epoxy putties (Interlux/pettit).  
Here is what I have found so far on properties

Marine Tex: 
tensile strength  4000 psi
compression strength  13000 psi

West system epoxy resin
tensile strength   7000 psi
compression strength  11000 psi

One other question- is the lead keel normally coated with something before 
bottom paint?  I am having the bottom stripped this winter and not sure if a 
primer is needed on the keel before bottom paint.
Dave

On Nov 21, 2015, at 11:03 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:

> On a leading or trailing edge of a keel you need high strength material.  A 
> lightweight fairing compound won't work.
> 
> I did some minor keel repair on Touche' a few years back.  Just squaring off 
> the trailing edge.  I used epoxy thickened with colloidal silica.  Microfiber 
> thickener would have worked just as well.  Both will cure to high strength.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Keel repair

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

On a leading or trailing edge of a keel you need high strength material.  A
lightweight fairing compound won't work.

I did some minor keel repair on Touche' a few years back.  Just squaring
off the trailing edge.  I used epoxy thickened with colloidal silica.
Microfiber thickener would have worked just as well.  Both will cure to
high strength.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Keel repair

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I have had the same experience that Russ describes with my car insurance- I 
enquired about the claim process for an incident (wind blew the spinnaker pole 
off the roof racks before I got it strapped down and it rolled off and took out 
the rear view mirror), did not file one, and they still recorded it in my 
record and added it to my list of insurance events. I should not have given 
them my name when I enquired.  

Also,  I am well aware of the hull issues as I cracked the hull of my C&C 34 
hitting a rock the first day out with the family after buying the boat.  Great 
way to start my boat ownership experience.  I have looked at the hull, the yard 
guy has looked at it and done some hammer tap testing and the hull appears 
sound.  We were going pretty slow, so I was surprised at the amount of damage 
to the keel.  I guess the kevlar reinforced hull of the 34+ is stiffer than the 
34.  Dave

On Nov 21, 2015, at 12:34 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
 wrote:

> Hi David & John,
> 
> With all due respect, I suggest you investigate the conditions of filing a 
> claim immediately. 
> I have a colleague who tells about having initiated a house claim on the 
> advice of the insurance broker but it did not proceed with any work being 
> done by the insurance company and it was still treated as a claim even though 
> nothing was paid out. Insurance can be a tough racket. There is lots of 
> profit to protect.
> 
> For your own piece of mind get someone knowledgeable to have a look. The best 
> area of interest to start looking at is the aft end of the keel area inside 
> the boat, especially if you have the grid or ladder structure.
> 
> Marine Tex is good for small repairs but a little on the expensive side if 
> it's going to require a lot.
> 
> Cheers, Russ
> Sweet 35 mk-1
> B.C. South Coast
> 
> 
> At 05:12 PM 20/11/2015, you wrote:
>> Content-Type: multipart/related;
>>  boundary="=_NextPart_000_0010_01D123CF.C38F0EB0"
>> Content-Language: en-us
>> 
>> David
>>  
>> Is your insurance up to date and premium paid??  A hard grounding that 
>> removes lead is by definition a serious stress on the keel and associated 
>> hull structure and needs to be addressed.  Suggest you immediately file a 
>> claim and have a reputable fiberglass guy inspect your keel, sump, 
>> surrounding hull and interior.  Get whatever needs to be fixed fixed and be 
>> confident in your boat’s integrity.  Remember that a crack shows something 
>> has in fact failed – the only question is how bad??  Arguably the best 
>> fiberglass guy in these parts is Nick Sahin at Fort Rachel
>>  
>> Best of luck
>>  
>>  
>> John and Maryann
>> Legacy III
>> 1982 C&C 34
>> Noank, CT
>>  
>> From: CnC-List [ mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David 
>> Knecht via CnC-List
>> Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2015 10:13 PM
>> To: CnC CnC discussion list
>> Cc: David Knecht
>> Subject: Stus-List Keel repair
>>  
>> Aries is now finally out of the water and I had a chance to survey the 
>> damage to the keel from my encounter with Melton Ledge last summer.  I 
>> actually received a special award from the Race Committee for going up on 
>> the ledge during a race and needing to be towed off.  In my defense, the 
>> marker buoy was 100 yards from where it was supposed to be and the Coast 
>> Guard repositioned it after I alerted them to the problem.  
>> The front edge of the keel is well smashed in over about a 6 inch area where 
>> it looks like the lead is actually missing.  I had presumed I would pound it 
>> back into shape and then smooth, but that does not look possible now that I 
>> see it.  The guy who helps out in the yard suggested using Marine Tex epoxy 
>> putty to fill in the missing volume and then smooth (angle grinder?)  I am 
>> hoping that the experts on this list can give me some guidance as to how to 
>> tackle the repair.  Thanks- Dave
>>  
>> Aries
>> 1990 C&C 34+
>> New London, CT
>> 
>> <2b577d5.png> 
>>  
>> 
>> 
>>
>> 
>> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. 
>> www.avast.com 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

Dr. David Knecht
Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology
Core Microscopy Facility Director
University of Connecticut   
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
Storrs, CT 06269
860-486-2200

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
htt

Re: Stus-List Keel repair

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi David & John,

With all due respect, I suggest you investigate 
the conditions of filing a claim immediately.
I have a colleague who tells about having 
initiated a house claim on the advice of the 
insurance broker but it did not proceed with any 
work being done by the insurance company and it 
was still treated as a claim even though nothing 
was paid out. Insurance can be a tough racket. 
There is lots of profit to protect.


For your own piece of mind get someone 
knowledgeable to have a look. The best area of 
interest to start looking at is the aft end of 
the keel area inside the boat, especially if you 
have the grid or ladder structure.


Marine Tex is good for small repairs but a little 
on the expensive side if it's going to require a lot.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1
B.C. South Coast


At 05:12 PM 20/11/2015, you wrote:

Content-Type: multipart/related;
boundary="=_NextPart_000_0010_01D123CF.C38F0EB0"
Content-Language: en-us

David

Is your insurance up to date and premium 
paid??  A hard grounding that removes lead is by 
definition a serious stress on the keel and 
associated hull structure and needs to be 
addressed.  Suggest you immediately file a claim 
and have a reputable fiberglass guy inspect your 
keel, sump, surrounding hull and interior.  Get 
whatever needs to be fixed fixed and be 
confident in your boat’s integrity.  Remember 
that a crack shows something has in fact failed 
– the only question is how bad??  Arguably the 
best fiberglass guy in these parts is Nick Sahin at Fort Rachel


Best of luck


John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht via CnC-List

Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2015 10:13 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Stus-List Keel repair

Aries is now finally out of the water and I had 
a chance to survey the damage to the keel from 
my encounter with Melton Ledge last summer.  I 
actually received a special award from the Race 
Committee for going up on the ledge during a 
race and needing to be towed off.  In my 
defense, the marker buoy was 100 yards from 
where it was supposed to be and the Coast Guard 
repositioned it after I alerted them to the problem.
The front edge of the keel is well smashed in 
over about a 6 inch area where it looks like the 
lead is actually missing.  I had presumed I 
would pound it back into shape and then smooth, 
but that does not look possible now that I see 
it.  The guy who helps out in the yard suggested 
using Marine Tex epoxy putty to fill in the 
missing volume and then smooth (angle 
grinder?)  I am hoping that the experts on this 
list can give me some guidance as to how to tackle the repair.  Thanks- Dave


Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

[]





--

Avast logo


This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
www.avast.com



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including 
unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:

http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Keel repair

[Michael Cotton via CnC-List]

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 20, 2015, at 8:12 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> David
>  
> Is your insurance up to date and premium paid??  A hard grounding that 
> removes lead is by definition a serious stress on the keel and associated 
> hull structure and needs to be addressed.  Suggest you immediately file a 
> claim and have a reputable fiberglass guy inspect your keel, sump, 
> surrounding hull and interior.  Get whatever needs to be fixed fixed and be 
> confident in your boat’s integrity.  Remember that a crack shows something 
> has in fact failed – the only question is how bad??  Arguably the best 
> fiberglass guy in these parts is Nick Sahin at Fort Rachel
>  
> Best of luck
>  
>  
> John and Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C&C 34
> Noank, CT
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David 
> Knecht via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2015 10:13 PM
> To: CnC CnC discussion list
> Cc: David Knecht
> Subject: Stus-List Keel repair
>  
> Aries is now finally out of the water and I had a chance to survey the damage 
> to the keel from my encounter with Melton Ledge last summer.  I actually 
> received a special award from the Race Committee for going up on the ledge 
> during a race and needing to be towed off.  In my defense, the marker buoy 
> was 100 yards from where it was supposed to be and the Coast Guard 
> repositioned it after I alerted them to the problem.  
> The front edge of the keel is well smashed in over about a 6 inch area where 
> it looks like the lead is actually missing.  I had presumed I would pound it 
> back into shape and then smooth, but that does not look possible now that I 
> see it.  The guy who helps out in the yard suggested using Marine Tex epoxy 
> putty to fill in the missing volume and then smooth (angle grinder?)  I am 
> hoping that the experts on this list can give me some guidance as to how to 
> tackle the repair.  Thanks- Dave
>  
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
>   
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. 
> www.avast.com
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Keel repair

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

David

 

Is your insurance up to date and premium paid??  A hard grounding that
removes lead is by definition a serious stress on the keel and associated
hull structure and needs to be addressed.  Suggest you immediately file a
claim and have a reputable fiberglass guy inspect your keel, sump,
surrounding hull and interior.  Get whatever needs to be fixed fixed and be
confident in your boat's integrity.  Remember that a crack shows something
has in fact failed - the only question is how bad??  Arguably the best
fiberglass guy in these parts is Nick Sahin at Fort Rachel

 

Best of luck

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David
Knecht via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, November 19, 2015 10:13 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Stus-List Keel repair

 

Aries is now finally out of the water and I had a chance to survey the
damage to the keel from my encounter with Melton Ledge last summer.  I
actually received a special award from the Race Committee for going up on
the ledge during a race and needing to be towed off.  In my defense, the
marker buoy was 100 yards from where it was supposed to be and the Coast
Guard repositioned it after I alerted them to the problem.  

The front edge of the keel is well smashed in over about a 6 inch area where
it looks like the lead is actually missing.  I had presumed I would pound it
back into shape and then smooth, but that does not look possible now that I
see it.  The guy who helps out in the yard suggested using Marine Tex epoxy
putty to fill in the missing volume and then smooth (angle grinder?)  I am
hoping that the experts on this list can give me some guidance as to how to
tackle the repair.  Thanks- Dave

 

Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT




 



---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Keel repair

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

David, in most hard groundings it is the back of the keel that gets driven up 
through the boat causing cracks inside the bilge. My son who does repairs at a 
local marina has seen this many times. Take a good look at the back end of your 
bilge for cracks, you could have some serious structrual damage. Wouldn't hurt 
to get a pro to look at it too. Good luck.

Mike Amirault 
C&C33mkii
SMSC___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Keel repair

[robert via CnC-List]

David:

I am no expert on this topic, however, I saw a similar repair this 
season at our clubthe contractor was using an epoxy filler to fill 
the missing volume.not a great deal of weight lost in the keel and a 
relatively simple repair..I remember he screwed a few long SS screws 
into the lead keel to act as an extra 'anchor' for the epoxy filler.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2015-11-19 11:12 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
Aries is now finally out of the water and I had a chance to survey the 
damage to the keel from my encounter with Melton Ledge last summer.  I 
actually received a special award from the Race Committee for going up 
on the ledge during a race and needing to be towed off.  In my 
defense, the marker buoy was 100 yards from where it was supposed to 
be and the Coast Guard repositioned it after I alerted them to the 
problem.
The front edge of the keel is well smashed in over about a 6 inch area 
where it looks like the lead is actually missing.  I had presumed I 
would pound it back into shape and then smooth, but that does not look 
possible now that I see it.  The guy who helps out in the yard 
suggested using Marine Tex epoxy putty to fill in the missing volume 
and then smooth (angle grinder?)  I am hoping that the experts on this 
list can give me some guidance as to how to tackle the repair. 
 Thanks- Dave


Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT




___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Keel repair

[Brent Driedger via CnC-List]

That's a bummer.  
Have you inspected the hull in front of the keel and in back? Tremendous forces 
during a grounding can fracture the hull in ways which may barely be visible 
but can cause delimitation etc. If the impact was enough to distort the lead it 
may be well within your interests to have hull inspected carefully.  There are 
people that can do scans of the laminate.  In my opinion this is more important 
than the distorted lead which superficial and not structural.  

Best of luck, the 34+ is my favourite. 

Cheers

Brent
27-5
Lake Winnipeg. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 19, 2015, at 9:12 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Aries is now finally out of the water and I had a chance to survey the damage 
> to the keel from my encounter with Melton Ledge last summer.  I actually 
> received a special award from the Race Committee for going up on the ledge 
> during a race and needing to be towed off.  In my defense, the marker buoy 
> was 100 yards from where it was supposed to be and the Coast Guard 
> repositioned it after I alerted them to the problem.  
> The front edge of the keel is well smashed in over about a 6 inch area where 
> it looks like the lead is actually missing.  I had presumed I would pound it 
> back into shape and then smooth, but that does not look possible now that I 
> see it.  The guy who helps out in the yard suggested using Marine Tex epoxy 
> putty to fill in the missing volume and then smooth (angle grinder?)  I am 
> hoping that the experts on this list can give me some guidance as to how to 
> tackle the repair.  Thanks- Dave
> 
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com