Re: Stus-List C -- Shift cable attachement at engine stringer

[David Paine via CnC-List]

I can report that it is possible to remove the shift cable without lifting
the engine.  Barely possible!I managed to create a tool to blindly
unscrew the hex bolts that hold the clamp.  The cable is now out of the
boat.   Huge relief.


On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 9:42 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Wow. I'd love to see some details of that arrangement.
> --Bob Moriarty
> Ox 33-1
> Jax, FL
>
> On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 8:57 PM, David Paine via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Bob, My below decks arduino autopilot uses a Pololu SMC controller.   It
>> is an amazingly effective motor controller.
>>
>> On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 7:50 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Yes that's a Pololu controller. They make good stuff.
>>>
>>> On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 7:45 PM, bobmor99 .  wrote:
>>>
 Hi David,
 My only (marginally useful) advice is to use a Dremel instead of a
 hacksaw.
 It's really tight down there.
 --Bob M


 On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 7:26 PM, David Paine via CnC-List <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks for the very useful input Bob and Rod,
>
> I used a mirror and it looks like exactly like what Rod describes -- a
> strap bolted with two 7/16' hex bolts screwed into  threaded holes.   
> Bob's
>  linear actuator (is that a Pololu motor controller?) is brilliant and
> would save the horrible feed-through the stainless tube brace problem but,
> for heck's sake, it shouldn't be this hard!The real problem is that
> there is no clearance for a socket between the hexbolt head and the
> eyestrap and, even if there were, there is no room between the engine and
> the bracket for the wrench.I am going to try hacksawing through the
> eyestrap that bolts the cable to the "L" to give a bit more room to fit a
> small open wrench (though the room to move is very limited).   To move the
> engine out of the way would be a nightmare so I am going to lose more
> knuckle skin before I resort to that!
>
> Best,
>
> David
>
>
>
> On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 7:06 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi David,
>> Not exactly helpful but the shift linkage failure was the penultimate
>> last straw in the relationship with my Atomic 4.
>> My remedy was a linear actuator controlled with a trim pot from the
>> helm. It was pretty cool until the A4 had a lot more problems.
>> I've gone electric since; an imperfect but so far reliable solution.
>>
>> Pics of the retired linear actuator:
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otuOEx2Q1RYM0R3UlE/view?usp=sharing
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otuM1JmaFJRS0M3RjQ/view?usp=sharing
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otuS3BxVmVDVXRlbjA/view?usp=sharing
>>
>> Here's the solar array that's helping charge my batteries:
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otua091R1dRbDFWMDA/view?usp=sharing
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 3:56 PM, Rod Randow via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I replaced my shift cable on my C 33-1 a few years ago when I had
>>> my engine out for a rebuild. If I remember correctly, the cable is 
>>> attached
>>> to the vertical side of the welded L angle with a omega shaped fitting.
>>> There are two bolts holding the piece.  I believe the angle piece
>>> was tapped for the bolts. The omega piece has a concave “V” which fits 
>>> into
>>> a groove on the cable end.  I not sure the cable is replaceable
>>> without lifting the engine -- let me know if it is possible.
>>>
>>>
>>> Make sure you get a cable with the same "throw"? as the old one. I
>>> had to recondition the old yoke because I could not find a replacement.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> There is more fun at the other end (cockpit) when it’s time to
>>> attach and adjust the cable. I disassembled the cable “tubes” from the
>>> binnacle to accomplish this.
>>>
>>>
>>> Rod Randow
>>>
>>> C
>>>
>>> On Thu, Apr 14, 2016 at 11:51 AM, David Paine via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Hi all,

 I have to replace the shift cable on my C and it is proving
 to be troublesome.   I have the original atomic 4 with the v-drive so 
 the
 transmission is located in the front.   The red jacket 64CC series 
 cable
 comes from the helm, under the cockpit sole and beneath the engine and
 attaches to a piece that is welded to the steel engine mount rail.   
 The
 trouble is that the cable clamp is inaccessible in the space between 
 the
 engine sump and the engine mount 

Re: Stus-List C -- Shift cable attachement at engine stringer

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Wow. I'd love to see some details of that arrangement.
--Bob Moriarty
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 8:57 PM, David Paine via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Bob, My below decks arduino autopilot uses a Pololu SMC controller.   It
> is an amazingly effective motor controller.
>
> On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 7:50 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Yes that's a Pololu controller. They make good stuff.
>>
>> On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 7:45 PM, bobmor99 .  wrote:
>>
>>> Hi David,
>>> My only (marginally useful) advice is to use a Dremel instead of a
>>> hacksaw.
>>> It's really tight down there.
>>> --Bob M
>>>
>>>
>>> On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 7:26 PM, David Paine via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Thanks for the very useful input Bob and Rod,

 I used a mirror and it looks like exactly like what Rod describes -- a
 strap bolted with two 7/16' hex bolts screwed into  threaded holes.   Bob's
  linear actuator (is that a Pololu motor controller?) is brilliant and
 would save the horrible feed-through the stainless tube brace problem but,
 for heck's sake, it shouldn't be this hard!The real problem is that
 there is no clearance for a socket between the hexbolt head and the
 eyestrap and, even if there were, there is no room between the engine and
 the bracket for the wrench.I am going to try hacksawing through the
 eyestrap that bolts the cable to the "L" to give a bit more room to fit a
 small open wrench (though the room to move is very limited).   To move the
 engine out of the way would be a nightmare so I am going to lose more
 knuckle skin before I resort to that!

 Best,

 David



 On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 7:06 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi David,
> Not exactly helpful but the shift linkage failure was the penultimate
> last straw in the relationship with my Atomic 4.
> My remedy was a linear actuator controlled with a trim pot from the
> helm. It was pretty cool until the A4 had a lot more problems.
> I've gone electric since; an imperfect but so far reliable solution.
>
> Pics of the retired linear actuator:
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otuOEx2Q1RYM0R3UlE/view?usp=sharing
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otuM1JmaFJRS0M3RjQ/view?usp=sharing
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otuS3BxVmVDVXRlbjA/view?usp=sharing
>
> Here's the solar array that's helping charge my batteries:
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otua091R1dRbDFWMDA/view?usp=sharing
>
>
>
>
> On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 3:56 PM, Rod Randow via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I replaced my shift cable on my C 33-1 a few years ago when I had
>> my engine out for a rebuild. If I remember correctly, the cable is 
>> attached
>> to the vertical side of the welded L angle with a omega shaped fitting.
>> There are two bolts holding the piece.  I believe the angle piece
>> was tapped for the bolts. The omega piece has a concave “V” which fits 
>> into
>> a groove on the cable end.  I not sure the cable is replaceable
>> without lifting the engine -- let me know if it is possible.
>>
>>
>> Make sure you get a cable with the same "throw"? as the old one. I
>> had to recondition the old yoke because I could not find a replacement.
>>
>>
>>
>> There is more fun at the other end (cockpit) when it’s time to attach
>> and adjust the cable. I disassembled the cable “tubes” from the binnacle 
>> to
>> accomplish this.
>>
>>
>> Rod Randow
>>
>> C
>>
>> On Thu, Apr 14, 2016 at 11:51 AM, David Paine via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi all,
>>>
>>> I have to replace the shift cable on my C and it is proving to
>>> be troublesome.   I have the original atomic 4 with the v-drive so the
>>> transmission is located in the front.   The red jacket 64CC series cable
>>> comes from the helm, under the cockpit sole and beneath the engine and
>>> attaches to a piece that is welded to the steel engine mount rail.   The
>>> trouble is that the cable clamp is inaccessible in the space between the
>>> engine sump and the engine mount stringers.It is looking like I will
>>> either have to (1) cut the welded piece off and put together an 
>>> alternative
>>> mount or (2) move the engine to allow access to the hidden clamp.   Both
>>> are fraught!It would help if I could see (I'll try a dentist's 
>>> mirror
>>> tonight) how the clamp functions -- is it a single screw or something
>>> else?  Any insight would be much appreciated!
>>>
>>> David
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> 

Re: Stus-List C -- Shift cable attachement at engine stringer

[David Paine via CnC-List]

Bob, My below decks arduino autopilot uses a Pololu SMC controller.   It is
an amazingly effective motor controller.

On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 7:50 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yes that's a Pololu controller. They make good stuff.
>
> On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 7:45 PM, bobmor99 .  wrote:
>
>> Hi David,
>> My only (marginally useful) advice is to use a Dremel instead of a
>> hacksaw.
>> It's really tight down there.
>> --Bob M
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 7:26 PM, David Paine via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks for the very useful input Bob and Rod,
>>>
>>> I used a mirror and it looks like exactly like what Rod describes -- a
>>> strap bolted with two 7/16' hex bolts screwed into  threaded holes.   Bob's
>>>  linear actuator (is that a Pololu motor controller?) is brilliant and
>>> would save the horrible feed-through the stainless tube brace problem but,
>>> for heck's sake, it shouldn't be this hard!The real problem is that
>>> there is no clearance for a socket between the hexbolt head and the
>>> eyestrap and, even if there were, there is no room between the engine and
>>> the bracket for the wrench.I am going to try hacksawing through the
>>> eyestrap that bolts the cable to the "L" to give a bit more room to fit a
>>> small open wrench (though the room to move is very limited).   To move the
>>> engine out of the way would be a nightmare so I am going to lose more
>>> knuckle skin before I resort to that!
>>>
>>> Best,
>>>
>>> David
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 7:06 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Hi David,
 Not exactly helpful but the shift linkage failure was the penultimate
 last straw in the relationship with my Atomic 4.
 My remedy was a linear actuator controlled with a trim pot from the
 helm. It was pretty cool until the A4 had a lot more problems.
 I've gone electric since; an imperfect but so far reliable solution.

 Pics of the retired linear actuator:


 https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otuOEx2Q1RYM0R3UlE/view?usp=sharing

 https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otuM1JmaFJRS0M3RjQ/view?usp=sharing

 https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otuS3BxVmVDVXRlbjA/view?usp=sharing

 Here's the solar array that's helping charge my batteries:

 https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otua091R1dRbDFWMDA/view?usp=sharing




 On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 3:56 PM, Rod Randow via CnC-List <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I replaced my shift cable on my C 33-1 a few years ago when I had my
> engine out for a rebuild. If I remember correctly, the cable is attached 
> to
> the vertical side of the welded L angle with a omega shaped fitting. There
> are two bolts holding the piece.  I believe the angle piece was
> tapped for the bolts. The omega piece has a concave “V” which fits into a
> groove on the cable end.  I not sure the cable is replaceable without
> lifting the engine -- let me know if it is possible.
>
>
> Make sure you get a cable with the same "throw"? as the old one. I had
> to recondition the old yoke because I could not find a replacement.
>
>
>
> There is more fun at the other end (cockpit) when it’s time to attach
> and adjust the cable. I disassembled the cable “tubes” from the binnacle 
> to
> accomplish this.
>
>
> Rod Randow
>
> C
>
> On Thu, Apr 14, 2016 at 11:51 AM, David Paine via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> I have to replace the shift cable on my C and it is proving to
>> be troublesome.   I have the original atomic 4 with the v-drive so the
>> transmission is located in the front.   The red jacket 64CC series cable
>> comes from the helm, under the cockpit sole and beneath the engine and
>> attaches to a piece that is welded to the steel engine mount rail.   The
>> trouble is that the cable clamp is inaccessible in the space between the
>> engine sump and the engine mount stringers.It is looking like I will
>> either have to (1) cut the welded piece off and put together an 
>> alternative
>> mount or (2) move the engine to allow access to the hidden clamp.   Both
>> are fraught!It would help if I could see (I'll try a dentist's mirror
>> tonight) how the clamp functions -- is it a single screw or something
>> else?  Any insight would be much appreciated!
>>
>> David
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If
>> you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> 

Re: Stus-List C -- Shift cable attachement at engine stringer

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Hi David,
My only (marginally useful) advice is to use a Dremel instead of a hacksaw.
It's really tight down there.
--Bob M


On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 7:26 PM, David Paine via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks for the very useful input Bob and Rod,
>
> I used a mirror and it looks like exactly like what Rod describes -- a
> strap bolted with two 7/16' hex bolts screwed into  threaded holes.   Bob's
>  linear actuator (is that a Pololu motor controller?) is brilliant and
> would save the horrible feed-through the stainless tube brace problem but,
> for heck's sake, it shouldn't be this hard!The real problem is that
> there is no clearance for a socket between the hexbolt head and the
> eyestrap and, even if there were, there is no room between the engine and
> the bracket for the wrench.I am going to try hacksawing through the
> eyestrap that bolts the cable to the "L" to give a bit more room to fit a
> small open wrench (though the room to move is very limited).   To move the
> engine out of the way would be a nightmare so I am going to lose more
> knuckle skin before I resort to that!
>
> Best,
>
> David
>
>
>
> On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 7:06 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi David,
>> Not exactly helpful but the shift linkage failure was the penultimate
>> last straw in the relationship with my Atomic 4.
>> My remedy was a linear actuator controlled with a trim pot from the helm.
>> It was pretty cool until the A4 had a lot more problems.
>> I've gone electric since; an imperfect but so far reliable solution.
>>
>> Pics of the retired linear actuator:
>>
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otuOEx2Q1RYM0R3UlE/view?usp=sharing
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otuM1JmaFJRS0M3RjQ/view?usp=sharing
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otuS3BxVmVDVXRlbjA/view?usp=sharing
>>
>> Here's the solar array that's helping charge my batteries:
>>
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otua091R1dRbDFWMDA/view?usp=sharing
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 3:56 PM, Rod Randow via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I replaced my shift cable on my C 33-1 a few years ago when I had my
>>> engine out for a rebuild. If I remember correctly, the cable is attached to
>>> the vertical side of the welded L angle with a omega shaped fitting. There
>>> are two bolts holding the piece.  I believe the angle piece was tapped
>>> for the bolts. The omega piece has a concave “V” which fits into a groove
>>> on the cable end.  I not sure the cable is replaceable without lifting
>>> the engine -- let me know if it is possible.
>>>
>>>
>>> Make sure you get a cable with the same "throw"? as the old one. I had
>>> to recondition the old yoke because I could not find a replacement.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> There is more fun at the other end (cockpit) when it’s time to attach
>>> and adjust the cable. I disassembled the cable “tubes” from the binnacle to
>>> accomplish this.
>>>
>>>
>>> Rod Randow
>>>
>>> C
>>>
>>> On Thu, Apr 14, 2016 at 11:51 AM, David Paine via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Hi all,

 I have to replace the shift cable on my C and it is proving to be
 troublesome.   I have the original atomic 4 with the v-drive so the
 transmission is located in the front.   The red jacket 64CC series cable
 comes from the helm, under the cockpit sole and beneath the engine and
 attaches to a piece that is welded to the steel engine mount rail.   The
 trouble is that the cable clamp is inaccessible in the space between the
 engine sump and the engine mount stringers.It is looking like I will
 either have to (1) cut the welded piece off and put together an alternative
 mount or (2) move the engine to allow access to the hidden clamp.   Both
 are fraught!It would help if I could see (I'll try a dentist's mirror
 tonight) how the clamp functions -- is it a single screw or something
 else?  Any insight would be much appreciated!

 David



 ___

 This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
 like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
 Contributions are greatly appreciated!


>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what 

Re: Stus-List C -- Shift cable attachement at engine stringer

[David Paine via CnC-List]

Thanks for the very useful input Bob and Rod,

I used a mirror and it looks like exactly like what Rod describes -- a
strap bolted with two 7/16' hex bolts screwed into  threaded holes.   Bob's
 linear actuator (is that a Pololu motor controller?) is brilliant and
would save the horrible feed-through the stainless tube brace problem but,
for heck's sake, it shouldn't be this hard!The real problem is that
there is no clearance for a socket between the hexbolt head and the
eyestrap and, even if there were, there is no room between the engine and
the bracket for the wrench.I am going to try hacksawing through the
eyestrap that bolts the cable to the "L" to give a bit more room to fit a
small open wrench (though the room to move is very limited).   To move the
engine out of the way would be a nightmare so I am going to lose more
knuckle skin before I resort to that!

Best,

David



On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 7:06 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi David,
> Not exactly helpful but the shift linkage failure was the penultimate last
> straw in the relationship with my Atomic 4.
> My remedy was a linear actuator controlled with a trim pot from the helm.
> It was pretty cool until the A4 had a lot more problems.
> I've gone electric since; an imperfect but so far reliable solution.
>
> Pics of the retired linear actuator:
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otuOEx2Q1RYM0R3UlE/view?usp=sharing
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otuM1JmaFJRS0M3RjQ/view?usp=sharing
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otuS3BxVmVDVXRlbjA/view?usp=sharing
>
> Here's the solar array that's helping charge my batteries:
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otua091R1dRbDFWMDA/view?usp=sharing
>
>
>
>
> On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 3:56 PM, Rod Randow via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I replaced my shift cable on my C 33-1 a few years ago when I had my
>> engine out for a rebuild. If I remember correctly, the cable is attached to
>> the vertical side of the welded L angle with a omega shaped fitting. There
>> are two bolts holding the piece.  I believe the angle piece was tapped
>> for the bolts. The omega piece has a concave “V” which fits into a groove
>> on the cable end.  I not sure the cable is replaceable without lifting
>> the engine -- let me know if it is possible.
>>
>>
>> Make sure you get a cable with the same "throw"? as the old one. I had to
>> recondition the old yoke because I could not find a replacement.
>>
>>
>>
>> There is more fun at the other end (cockpit) when it’s time to attach and
>> adjust the cable. I disassembled the cable “tubes” from the binnacle to
>> accomplish this.
>>
>>
>> Rod Randow
>>
>> C
>>
>> On Thu, Apr 14, 2016 at 11:51 AM, David Paine via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi all,
>>>
>>> I have to replace the shift cable on my C and it is proving to be
>>> troublesome.   I have the original atomic 4 with the v-drive so the
>>> transmission is located in the front.   The red jacket 64CC series cable
>>> comes from the helm, under the cockpit sole and beneath the engine and
>>> attaches to a piece that is welded to the steel engine mount rail.   The
>>> trouble is that the cable clamp is inaccessible in the space between the
>>> engine sump and the engine mount stringers.It is looking like I will
>>> either have to (1) cut the welded piece off and put together an alternative
>>> mount or (2) move the engine to allow access to the hidden clamp.   Both
>>> are fraught!It would help if I could see (I'll try a dentist's mirror
>>> tonight) how the clamp functions -- is it a single screw or something
>>> else?  Any insight would be much appreciated!
>>>
>>> David
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C -- Shift cable attachement at engine stringer

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Hi David,
Not exactly helpful but the shift linkage failure was the penultimate last
straw in the relationship with my Atomic 4.
My remedy was a linear actuator controlled with a trim pot from the helm.
It was pretty cool until the A4 had a lot more problems.
I've gone electric since; an imperfect but so far reliable solution.

Pics of the retired linear actuator:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otuOEx2Q1RYM0R3UlE/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otuM1JmaFJRS0M3RjQ/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otuS3BxVmVDVXRlbjA/view?usp=sharing

Here's the solar array that's helping charge my batteries:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0btSA_J8otua091R1dRbDFWMDA/view?usp=sharing




On Fri, Apr 15, 2016 at 3:56 PM, Rod Randow via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I replaced my shift cable on my C 33-1 a few years ago when I had my
> engine out for a rebuild. If I remember correctly, the cable is attached to
> the vertical side of the welded L angle with a omega shaped fitting. There
> are two bolts holding the piece.  I believe the angle piece was tapped
> for the bolts. The omega piece has a concave “V” which fits into a groove
> on the cable end.  I not sure the cable is replaceable without lifting
> the engine -- let me know if it is possible.
>
>
> Make sure you get a cable with the same "throw"? as the old one. I had to
> recondition the old yoke because I could not find a replacement.
>
>
>
> There is more fun at the other end (cockpit) when it’s time to attach and
> adjust the cable. I disassembled the cable “tubes” from the binnacle to
> accomplish this.
>
>
> Rod Randow
>
> C
>
> On Thu, Apr 14, 2016 at 11:51 AM, David Paine via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> I have to replace the shift cable on my C and it is proving to be
>> troublesome.   I have the original atomic 4 with the v-drive so the
>> transmission is located in the front.   The red jacket 64CC series cable
>> comes from the helm, under the cockpit sole and beneath the engine and
>> attaches to a piece that is welded to the steel engine mount rail.   The
>> trouble is that the cable clamp is inaccessible in the space between the
>> engine sump and the engine mount stringers.It is looking like I will
>> either have to (1) cut the welded piece off and put together an alternative
>> mount or (2) move the engine to allow access to the hidden clamp.   Both
>> are fraught!It would help if I could see (I'll try a dentist's mirror
>> tonight) how the clamp functions -- is it a single screw or something
>> else?  Any insight would be much appreciated!
>>
>> David
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C -- Shift cable attachement at engine stringer

[Rod Randow via CnC-List]

I replaced my shift cable on my C 33-1 a few years ago when I had my
engine out for a rebuild. If I remember correctly, the cable is attached to
the vertical side of the welded L angle with a omega shaped fitting. There
are two bolts holding the piece.  I believe the angle piece was tapped for
the bolts. The omega piece has a concave “V” which fits into a groove on
the cable end.  I not sure the cable is replaceable without lifting the
engine -- let me know if it is possible.


Make sure you get a cable with the same "throw"? as the old one. I had to
recondition the old yoke because I could not find a replacement.



There is more fun at the other end (cockpit) when it’s time to attach and
adjust the cable. I disassembled the cable “tubes” from the binnacle to
accomplish this.


Rod Randow

C

On Thu, Apr 14, 2016 at 11:51 AM, David Paine via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I have to replace the shift cable on my C and it is proving to be
> troublesome.   I have the original atomic 4 with the v-drive so the
> transmission is located in the front.   The red jacket 64CC series cable
> comes from the helm, under the cockpit sole and beneath the engine and
> attaches to a piece that is welded to the steel engine mount rail.   The
> trouble is that the cable clamp is inaccessible in the space between the
> engine sump and the engine mount stringers.It is looking like I will
> either have to (1) cut the welded piece off and put together an alternative
> mount or (2) move the engine to allow access to the hidden clamp.   Both
> are fraught!It would help if I could see (I'll try a dentist's mirror
> tonight) how the clamp functions -- is it a single screw or something
> else?  Any insight would be much appreciated!
>
> David
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List C -- Shift cable attachement at engine stringer

[David Paine via CnC-List]

Hi all,

I have to replace the shift cable on my C and it is proving to be
troublesome.   I have the original atomic 4 with the v-drive so the
transmission is located in the front.   The red jacket 64CC series cable
comes from the helm, under the cockpit sole and beneath the engine and
attaches to a piece that is welded to the steel engine mount rail.   The
trouble is that the cable clamp is inaccessible in the space between the
engine sump and the engine mount stringers.It is looking like I will
either have to (1) cut the welded piece off and put together an alternative
mount or (2) move the engine to allow access to the hidden clamp.   Both
are fraught!It would help if I could see (I'll try a dentist's mirror
tonight) how the clamp functions -- is it a single screw or something
else?  Any insight would be much appreciated!

David
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!