Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Josh,

 

I am impressed with your video and may copy some of your mods next season.  
Where is your seawater strainer?  My Racor is in the same location as yours but 
my seawater strainer is above and slightly forward of it.  The seawater lines 
run from the inlet valve to the strainer and back to the raw water pump along 
the port bilge.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

 <mailto:ron.ri...@1968.usna.com> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 11:42 AM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement

 

I hated how much fuel needed to be vented off my racor 200FG and it still never 
seemed to be completely vented.  The original vent was just a knurled knob on 
the outlet sife fitting.  It wasn't even at the highest point of the filter 
housing and didn't allow catching the vented fuel.  I started thinking about 
how to maybe get a higher vent point.  First I drilled and tapped a hole in the 
top of the housing and put a typical brake bleed type of fitting.  It worked 
but necessitated using small tubing to direct the vented fuel into a bottle.  
It wasn't until I performed this mod that I realized just how much fuel needed 
to be vented in order to flush all the air out of the filter.  I was usually 
looking at about 1 gallon of fuel just to get all the air out.

 

I started thinking about how to direct that vented fuel back to the tank.  I 
was going to run a return fuel line when it occurred to me that the engine 
already has a return fuel line from the injectors.  I changed the bleeder valve 
to a t-handle valve.  Then I inserted a tee fitting and t-handled valve in the 
return fuel hose.  Then I connected the 2 t-handled valves with some clear 
tubing.

 

The 2 t-handled valves isolate the vent tubing during normal operation and 
maintain the integrity of the original components.  When venting, both 
t-handled valves are openwd to create a flow path back to the tank.  You can 
watch the air bubbles in the clear tubing disapate as the vent continues.

 

See my video at about 2:10 minutes.

https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ?t=2m12s

 

These engines take a 2 micron engine filter and I run a 2 micron racor. The 
racor is now easier to change and bleed so I prefer it to clog first.  I also 
show a vacuum gage which I installed on my racor in the video.  A new racor 
filter has shown to have very low vacuum so whenever it starts to creep up I 
change it...hasn't happened yet.

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

 

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Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

My m4-30 has 2 inline fuel filters, one with a water collection bowl, the
other a finer canister style filter (2 micron rings a bell)
...remember to close the fuel valve from the tank before removing the
filters, it can be a messy job, and you will need to bleed the fuel system
of entrapped air after installing the new filters...the owners manual
describes it well

Dwight Veinot
C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Thu, Mar 30, 2017 at 9:29 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I hate to admit this, but I am going to replace the fuel filters on my
> Universal M4-30 this spring, and I have not done it before on this engine.
> The manual says it has a continuous bleed system.  What it doesn’t say is
> what that means.  Does it mean I can just replace the filters, turn on the
> fuel pump and it will bleed itself so I don’t have to open any bleed
> screws?  If so, I want to buy a bottle of rum for whomever designed the
> system.  I am thinking back to the wrestling matches I had with my previous
> Yanmar after changing filters.  Thanks- Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement

[BillBinaList via CnC-List]

These are not made from marinized materials. They are intended to filter 
fuel for a home heating system.


Bill Bina


On 4/1/2017 8:01 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
I came across this fuel filter unit while looking for filters online. 
 I was intrigued because I have only ever seen Racor available and 
they are absurdly expensive for what you are getting.  It costs 
substantially less than Racor, has a spin on filter instead of a bowl 
and includes a gauge, which I think is an important upgrade.  I don’t 
see an obvious way to bleed it and there is no visual water inspection 
point.  But I check for water rarely, because I have never had any in 
all the years I have owned a boat with a visual inspection port.  I 
also have a self-bleeding system so suspect this would not have to be 
bled.  I know I could add a gauge to my system, but this gets it all 
in one neat package.  Anyone had experience with a non-Racor system 
like this?  Dave




http://www.suremarineservice.com/W11BVRK.aspx?gclid=CjwKEAjw_PfGBRDW_sutqMbQsmMSJAAMpUapkNdVKNc5sqeq0tP3Ujt5rEnixaI6CymISR_p7xJl7RoCQyLw_wcB 







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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I came across this fuel filter unit while looking for filters online.  I was 
intrigued because I have only ever seen Racor available and they are absurdly 
expensive for what you are getting.  It costs substantially less than Racor, 
has a spin on filter instead of a bowl and includes a gauge, which I think is 
an important upgrade.  I don’t see an obvious way to bleed it and there is no 
visual water inspection point.  But I check for water rarely, because I have 
never had any in all the years I have owned a boat with a visual inspection 
port.  I also have a self-bleeding system so suspect this would not have to be 
bled.  I know I could add a gauge to my system, but this gets it all in one 
neat package.  Anyone had experience with a non-Racor system like this?  Dave

> 
http://www.suremarineservice.com/W11BVRK.aspx?gclid=CjwKEAjw_PfGBRDW_sutqMbQsmMSJAAMpUapkNdVKNc5sqeq0tP3Ujt5rEnixaI6CymISR_p7xJl7RoCQyLw_wcB
 
<http://www.suremarineservice.com/W11BVRK.aspx?gclid=CjwKEAjw_PfGBRDW_sutqMbQsmMSJAAMpUapkNdVKNc5sqeq0tP3Ujt5rEnixaI6CymISR_p7xJl7RoCQyLw_wcB>



> On Mar 31, 2017, at 4:43 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> Not wanting to come off as a “conspiracy theory” nut, but they do sell a 
> remote oil filter kit that lets you orient the oil filter vertically and in 
> an area where you can actually get tools and a trash bag around the filter to 
> catch the oil waste.
>  
> On my M34B the oil filter is so tight against the bottom of the cooling hose 
> that it becomes a major hassle to even get a strap wrench on the filter. 
> That, and the mess from dripping oil, becomes a major motivation for buying a 
> remote kit every time I change the oil.   
>  
> So ya think maybe the dumb design is really smart marketing? Or am I just 
> being a cynic?
>  
> Rick Brass
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of David Knecht via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 7:54 AM
> To: CnC CnC discussion list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com <mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement
>  
>  (I really wish they had oriented the oil filter up and down instead of 
> laying it on its side.) 
>  
> I second that thought.  Whomever designed that placement never changed the 
> oil filter on one of these engines!  Dave
>  
>>  
> 
>  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Not wanting to come off as a “conspiracy theory” nut, but they do sell a 
remote oil filter kit that lets you orient the oil filter vertically and in an 
area where you can actually get tools and a trash bag around the filter to 
catch the oil waste.

 

On my M34B the oil filter is so tight against the bottom of the cooling hose 
that it becomes a major hassle to even get a strap wrench on the filter. That, 
and the mess from dripping oil, becomes a major motivation for buying a remote 
kit every time I change the oil.   

 

So ya think maybe the dumb design is really smart marketing? Or am I just being 
a cynic?

 

Rick Brass

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2017 7:54 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement

 

 (I really wish they had oriented the oil filter up and down instead of laying 
it on its side.) 

 

I second that thought.  Whomever designed that placement never changed the oil 
filter on one of these engines!  Dave

 

 

 

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I hated how much fuel needed to be vented off my racor 200FG and it still
never seemed to be completely vented.  The original vent was just a knurled
knob on the outlet sife fitting.  It wasn't even at the highest point of
the filter housing and didn't allow catching the vented fuel.  I started
thinking about how to maybe get a higher vent point.  First I drilled and
tapped a hole in the top of the housing and put a typical brake bleed type
of fitting.  It worked but necessitated using small tubing to direct the
vented fuel into a bottle.  It wasn't until I performed this mod that I
realized just how much fuel needed to be vented in order to flush all the
air out of the filter.  I was usually looking at about 1 gallon of fuel
just to get all the air out.

I started thinking about how to direct that vented fuel back to the tank.
I was going to run a return fuel line when it occurred to me that the
engine already has a return fuel line from the injectors.  I changed the
bleeder valve to a t-handle valve.  Then I inserted a tee fitting and
t-handled valve in the return fuel hose.  Then I connected the 2 t-handled
valves with some clear tubing.

The 2 t-handled valves isolate the vent tubing during normal operation and
maintain the integrity of the original components.  When venting, both
t-handled valves are openwd to create a flow path back to the tank.  You
can watch the air bubbles in the clear tubing disapate as the vent
continues.

See my video at about 2:10 minutes.
https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ?t=2m12s

These engines take a 2 micron engine filter and I run a 2 micron racor. The
racor is now easier to change and bleed so I prefer it to clog first.  I
also show a vacuum gage which I installed on my racor in the video.  A new
racor filter has shown to have very low vacuum so whenever it starts to
creep up I change it...hasn't happened yet.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mar 30, 2017 7:18 PM, "Rick Brass via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> Depends on which filter you’re talking about.
>
>
>
> The Kabuto based Universal diesels I’ve had experience with (ditto the
> Betas) are self-bleeding. So if you’re changing the 10 micron filter on the
> engine, you just need to turn on the switch to activate the lift pump, and
> crank the engine. It might take a few extra seconds of cranking and a bit
> of throttle, but it will start.
>
>
>
> If, OTOH, you are talking about a Racor primary filter that is between the
> tank and the lift pump, you do have to bleed that one. But the Racor has so
> much filter area compared to the fuel flow in a small diesel that – unless
> you get into a batch of bad fuel – it doesn’t need changing very often. I
> think I’m on the third Racor in 14 years of owning my 38.
>
>
>
> As far as the 70-80 micron trash filter that is before the lift pump, if
> you have a Racor primary filter there is no real point in replacing this
> little filter.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *David
> Knecht via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 30, 2017 8:29 AM
> *To:* CnC CnC discussion list <CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
> *Cc:* David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>
> *Subject:* Stus-List Fuel filter replacement
>
>
>
> I hate to admit this, but I am going to replace the fuel filters on my
> Universal M4-30 this spring, and I have not done it before on this engine.
> The manual says it has a continuous bleed system.  What it doesn’t say is
> what that means.  Does it mean I can just replace the filters, turn on the
> fuel pump and it will bleed itself so I don’t have to open any bleed
> screws?  If so, I want to buy a bottle of rum for whomever designed the
> system.  I am thinking back to the wrestling matches I had with my previous
> Yanmar after changing filters.  Thanks- Dave
>
>
>
> Aries
>
> 1990 C 34+
>
> New London, CT
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

 (I really wish they had oriented the oil filter up and down instead of laying 
it on its side.) 

I second that thought.  Whomever designed that placement never changed the oil 
filter on one of these engines!  Dave

>  
> Rick Brass
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David 
> Knecht via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2017 9:07 PM
> To: CnC CnC discussion list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement
>  
> Hi Rick- There are three filters and I was planning on changing all of them 
> since I have no idea how old they are (>3 years). 
>  The Racor is a 30µm filter.  It sounds like this one needs to be bled, so I 
> am guessing there is a bleed screw on top, so I would fill the bowl, loosen 
> the screw and then turn on the pump switch until fuel comes out the screw.  
> The second is a spin on filter on the engine.  Do you just swap it or fill it 
> with diesel first? 
> The third is the “trash filter” which the manual just calls a fuel filter and 
> looks like just a mesh basket.  Presumably you would just swap new for old.  
> Not sure I am going to bother with that since I suspect it is going to be 
> challenging to get to with limited access to that side of the engine.  
>  
> Thanks- Dave
>  
>> On Mar 30, 2017, at 7:17 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>  
>>  
>>  
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
>> <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of David Knecht via 
>> CnC-List
>> 

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

Read Nigel Calder's article (Diesel Issues) in March issue of 'Sail' for a
different take on infrequent filter changes and the potential consequences.

On Thu, Mar 30, 2017, 8:35 PM Rick Brass via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> My Racor is a finer filter than the 10 micron filter on the engine. 4
> micron if I recall, which is contrary to the normal process. It is a screw
> on element with a clear plastic bowl on the bottom. Inspection of the bowl
> will show water, and discoloration if there is any contamination being
> filtered out of the fuel. I have about 700 hours on the engine since
> installation in 2011, and so far no indication that the filter needs to be
> replaced. Turning on the lift pump will do no good, since the filter is on
> the suction side of the pump. On my Racor, you put the bowl on the bottom
> of the element, put clean fuel into the element, install on the filter
> head. There is a bleed screw to be cracked on the output side of the filter
> head, and a plastic “knob” in the top of the filter head. Unscrew the knob
> and it becomes part of a small piston pump you use to pump fuel into the
> filter from the tank until fuel comes out the bleed screw.
>
>
>
> I know that some on the list have put a fuel squeeze bulb in the fuel line
> before the Racor filter, and use that to fill and bleed the Racor filter
> instead of the little piston pump built into the filter head.
>
>
>
> The trash filter is about 70-80 micron. Mine is a little cylindrical
> cartridge filter just a couple of inches long and maybe ½” diameter. Since
> the Racor filters well below 70 micron, I’ve never changed the trash
> filter. (I do have a spare aboard, though, since it came as part of the
> Universal spares package.
>
>
>
> The main filter on the side of the engine (which I think of as the
> secondary filter) is a little 10 micron spin on between the lift pump and
> the injection pump. IIRC, it is oriented with the screw fitting on top, so
> you fill the new filter with clean fuel (to cut down on the amount of air
> that needs to be bled) and screw it on. (I really wish they had oriented
> the oil filter up and down instead of laying it on its side.) Turn on the
> lift pump, crank the engine, and Bob’s your uncle.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *David
> Knecht via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, March 30, 2017 9:07 PM
> *To:* CnC CnC discussion list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Cc:* David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement
>
>
>
> Hi Rick- There are three filters and I was planning on changing all of
> them since I have no idea how old they are (>3 years).
>
>  The Racor is a 30µm filter.  It sounds like this one needs to be bled, so
> I am guessing there is a bleed screw on top, so I would fill the bowl,
> loosen the screw and then turn on the pump switch until fuel comes out the
> screw.
>
> The second is a spin on filter on the engine.  Do you just swap it or fill
> it with diesel first?
>
> The third is the “trash filter” which the manual just calls a fuel filter
> and looks like just a mesh basket.  Presumably you would just swap new for
> old.  Not sure I am going to bother with that since I suspect it is going
> to be challenging to get to with limited access to that side of the engine.
>
>
>
>
> Thanks- Dave
>
>
>
> On Mar 30, 2017, at 7:17 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> Depends on which filter you’re talking about.
>
>
>
> The Kabuto based Universal diesels I’ve had experience with (ditto the
> Betas) are self-bleeding. So if you’re changing the 10 micron filter on the
> engine, you just need to turn on the switch to activate the lift pump, and
> crank the engine. It might take a few extra seconds of cranking and a bit
> of throttle, but it will start.
>
>
>
> If, OTOH, you are talking about a Racor primary filter that is between the
> tank and the lift pump, you do have to bleed that one. But the Racor has so
> much filter area compared to the fuel flow in a small diesel that – unless
> you get into a batch of bad fuel – it doesn’t need changing very often. I
> think I’m on the third Racor in 14 years of owning my 38.
>
>
>
> As far as the 70-80 micron trash filter that is before the lift pump, if
> you have a Racor primary filter there is no real point in replacing this
> little filter.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] *On Behalf Of *David Kn

Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

My Racor is a finer filter than the 10 micron filter on the engine. 4 micron if 
I recall, which is contrary to the normal process. It is a screw on element 
with a clear plastic bowl on the bottom. Inspection of the bowl will show 
water, and discoloration if there is any contamination being filtered out of 
the fuel. I have about 700 hours on the engine since installation in 2011, and 
so far no indication that the filter needs to be replaced. Turning on the lift 
pump will do no good, since the filter is on the suction side of the pump. On 
my Racor, you put the bowl on the bottom of the element, put clean fuel into 
the element, install on the filter head. There is a bleed screw to be cracked 
on the output side of the filter head, and a plastic “knob” in the top of the 
filter head. Unscrew the knob and it becomes part of a small piston pump you 
use to pump fuel into the filter from the tank until fuel comes out the bleed 
screw.

 

I know that some on the list have put a fuel squeeze bulb in the fuel line 
before the Racor filter, and use that to fill and bleed the Racor filter 
instead of the little piston pump built into the filter head.

 

The trash filter is about 70-80 micron. Mine is a little cylindrical cartridge 
filter just a couple of inches long and maybe ½” diameter. Since the Racor 
filters well below 70 micron, I’ve never changed the trash filter. (I do have a 
spare aboard, though, since it came as part of the Universal spares package.

 

The main filter on the side of the engine (which I think of as the secondary 
filter) is a little 10 micron spin on between the lift pump and the injection 
pump. IIRC, it is oriented with the screw fitting on top, so you fill the new 
filter with clean fuel (to cut down on the amount of air that needs to be bled) 
and screw it on. (I really wish they had oriented the oil filter up and down 
instead of laying it on its side.) Turn on the lift pump, crank the engine, and 
Bob’s your uncle.

 

Rick Brass

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2017 9:07 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement

 

Hi Rick- There are three filters and I was planning on changing all of them 
since I have no idea how old they are (>3 years). 

 The Racor is a 30µm filter.  It sounds like this one needs to be bled, so I am 
guessing there is a bleed screw on top, so I would fill the bowl, loosen the 
screw and then turn on the pump switch until fuel comes out the screw.  

The second is a spin on filter on the engine.  Do you just swap it or fill it 
with diesel first? 

The third is the “trash filter” which the manual just calls a fuel filter and 
looks like just a mesh basket.  Presumably you would just swap new for old.  
Not sure I am going to bother with that since I suspect it is going to be 
challenging to get to with limited access to that side of the engine.  

 

Thanks- Dave

 

On Mar 30, 2017, at 7:17 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Depends on which filter you’re talking about.

 

The Kabuto based Universal diesels I’ve had experience with (ditto the Betas) 
are self-bleeding. So if you’re changing the 10 micron filter on the engine, 
you just need to turn on the switch to activate the lift pump, and crank the 
engine. It might take a few extra seconds of cranking and a bit of throttle, 
but it will start. 

 

If, OTOH, you are talking about a Racor primary filter that is between the tank 
and the lift pump, you do have to bleed that one. But the Racor has so much 
filter area compared to the fuel flow in a small diesel that – unless you get 
into a batch of bad fuel – it doesn’t need changing very often. I think I’m on 
the third Racor in 14 years of owning my 38.

 

As far as the 70-80 micron trash filter that is before the lift pump, if you 
have a Racor primary filter there is no real point in replacing this little 
filter.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2017 8:29 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list <CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com> >
Cc: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com <mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com> >
Subject: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement

 

I hate to admit this, but I am going to replace the fuel filters on my 
Universal M4-30 this spring, and I have not done it before on this engine. The 
manual says it has a continuous bleed system.  What it doesn’t say is what that 
means.  Does it mean I can just replace the filters, turn on the fuel pump and 
it will bleed itself so I don’t have to open any bleed screws?  If so, I want 
to buy a bottle of rum for whomever designed the system.  I am th

Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Hi Rick- There are three filters and I was planning on changing all of them 
since I have no idea how old they are (>3 years). 
 The Racor is a 30µm filter.  It sounds like this one needs to be bled, so I am 
guessing there is a bleed screw on top, so I would fill the bowl, loosen the 
screw and then turn on the pump switch until fuel comes out the screw.  
The second is a spin on filter on the engine.  Do you just swap it or fill it 
with diesel first? 
The third is the “trash filter” which the manual just calls a fuel filter and 
looks like just a mesh basket.  Presumably you would just swap new for old.  
Not sure I am going to bother with that since I suspect it is going to be 
challenging to get to with limited access to that side of the engine.  

Thanks- Dave

> On Mar 30, 2017, at 7:17 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> Depends on which filter you’re talking about.
>  
> The Kabuto based Universal diesels I’ve had experience with (ditto the Betas) 
> are self-bleeding. So if you’re changing the 10 micron filter on the engine, 
> you just need to turn on the switch to activate the lift pump, and crank the 
> engine. It might take a few extra seconds of cranking and a bit of throttle, 
> but it will start. 
>  
> If, OTOH, you are talking about a Racor primary filter that is between the 
> tank and the lift pump, you do have to bleed that one. But the Racor has so 
> much filter area compared to the fuel flow in a small diesel that – unless 
> you get into a batch of bad fuel – it doesn’t need changing very often. I 
> think I’m on the third Racor in 14 years of owning my 38.
>  
> As far as the 70-80 micron trash filter that is before the lift pump, if you 
> have a Racor primary filter there is no real point in replacing this little 
> filter.
>  
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David 
> Knecht via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2017 8:29 AM
> To: CnC CnC discussion list <CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>
> Subject: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement
>  
> I hate to admit this, but I am going to replace the fuel filters on my 
> Universal M4-30 this spring, and I have not done it before on this engine. 
> The manual says it has a continuous bleed system.  What it doesn’t say is 
> what that means.  Does it mean I can just replace the filters, turn on the 
> fuel pump and it will bleed itself so I don’t have to open any bleed screws?  
> If so, I want to buy a bottle of rum for whomever designed the system.  I am 
> thinking back to the wrestling matches I had with my previous Yanmar after 
> changing filters.  Thanks- Dave
>  
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
>  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray <https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement

[Bill Dakin via CnC-List]

I you run biodiesel in significant proportions for the first time, you may have 
to change out one or both filters as the formulation tends to loosen crud in 
the system.  My Ford F250 7.3 Power Stroke diesel runs very well on it.  The 
exhaust smells like french fries!

Bill Dakin
25MKII___

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Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Depends on which filter you’re talking about.

 

The Kabuto based Universal diesels I’ve had experience with (ditto the Betas) 
are self-bleeding. So if you’re changing the 10 micron filter on the engine, 
you just need to turn on the switch to activate the lift pump, and crank the 
engine. It might take a few extra seconds of cranking and a bit of throttle, 
but it will start. 

 

If, OTOH, you are talking about a Racor primary filter that is between the tank 
and the lift pump, you do have to bleed that one. But the Racor has so much 
filter area compared to the fuel flow in a small diesel that – unless you get 
into a batch of bad fuel – it doesn’t need changing very often. I think I’m on 
the third Racor in 14 years of owning my 38.

 

As far as the 70-80 micron trash filter that is before the lift pump, if you 
have a Racor primary filter there is no real point in replacing this little 
filter.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2017 8:29 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list <CnC-List@cnc-list.com>
Cc: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement

 

I hate to admit this, but I am going to replace the fuel filters on my 
Universal M4-30 this spring, and I have not done it before on this engine. The 
manual says it has a continuous bleed system.  What it doesn’t say is what that 
means.  Does it mean I can just replace the filters, turn on the fuel pump and 
it will bleed itself so I don’t have to open any bleed screws?  If so, I want 
to buy a bottle of rum for whomever designed the system.  I am thinking back to 
the wrestling matches I had with my previous Yanmar after changing filters.  
Thanks- Dave

 

Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT




 

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

You shouldn't have to bleed a Universal diesel.  Just change the element,
add some fresh diesel to top off the filter (if not a spin off) and start
the engine.

Dennis C.

On Thu, Mar 30, 2017 at 7:29 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I hate to admit this, but I am going to replace the fuel filters on my
> Universal M4-30 this spring, and I have not done it before on this engine.
> The manual says it has a continuous bleed system.  What it doesn’t say is
> what that means.  Does it mean I can just replace the filters, turn on the
> fuel pump and it will bleed itself so I don’t have to open any bleed
> screws?  If so, I want to buy a bottle of rum for whomever designed the
> system.  I am thinking back to the wrestling matches I had with my previous
> Yanmar after changing filters.  Thanks- Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Fuel filter replacement

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

Past experience makes me think that it is a matter of luck.  I assume you know 
to fill the fuel bowl after inserting the filter.  Turn on the ignition switch 
to start the electric pump and open the bleed screw on the top of the filter.  
I do not recall if there was another bleed valve at the mechanical pump.  The 
last bleed point is at the injectors.  After this, with luck, the engine should 
start.
Frank 

On Thursday, March 30, 2017 7:30 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 I hate to admit this, but I am going to replace the fuel filters on my 
Universal M4-30 this spring, and I have not done it before on this engine. The 
manual says it has a continuous bleed system.  What it doesn’t say is what that 
means.  Does it mean I can just replace the filters, turn on the fuel pump and 
it will bleed itself so I don’t have to open any bleed screws?  If so, I want 
to buy a bottle of rum for whomever designed the system.  I am thinking back to 
the wrestling matches I had with my previous Yanmar after changing filters.  
Thanks- Dave
Aries1990 C 34+New London, CT

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


   ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Fuel filter replacement

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I hate to admit this, but I am going to replace the fuel filters on my 
Universal M4-30 this spring, and I have not done it before on this engine. The 
manual says it has a continuous bleed system.  What it doesn’t say is what that 
means.  Does it mean I can just replace the filters, turn on the fuel pump and 
it will bleed itself so I don’t have to open any bleed screws?  If so, I want 
to buy a bottle of rum for whomever designed the system.  I am thinking back to 
the wrestling matches I had with my previous Yanmar after changing filters.  
Thanks- Dave

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!