Re: Stus-List Heat exchanger problem
Dave, Is the gasket new? I doubt that a used gasket would seal in this situation. It has been crushed under heat and pressure. It probably has taken a set that keeps it from sealing properly. Jake Jake Brodersen Midnight Mistress CC 35 Mk-III Hampton VA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht via CnC-List Sent: Monday, May 18, 2015 10:06 PM To: CnC CnC discussion list Cc: David Knecht Subject: Stus-List Heat exchanger problem I hope someone can help with this problem. I removed my heat exchanger from my Universal M4-30 last winter and had it cleaned out and a radiator shop and then I repainted it. As far as I can tell, the guy who did it did not pressure test it because it came back disassembled. I did not think much of it at the time. When I reassembled the end plates, it did not feel like the end caps were secured against the housing, but I assumed the gasket would do its job since I tightened the bolts as much as possible. Aries splashed today and when I started up the engine, water was spraying out of the end cap on one side an dripping from the other. The bolt is as tight as I can get it, but it still seems to not be putting enough pressure on the caps to seal. I was a bit confused about the assembly process. The order I thought was correct was the plate with the O ring on the bolt and the gasket over that. The plate has a slight recess that I thought was for the O ring, but it seems like the O ring might be preventing the plate from making good contact with the gasket. The way I assembled it looks like the picture on the Pbase site which is the only photo I can find (http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/heat_exchanger). Any words of wisdom out there? Thanks- Dave Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Heat exchanger problem
Hi David, Two things stood out for me in you message. 1. Did you put the same end caps on the same side they came off? 2. O-rings don't typically rest against a gasket. They are usually between two metal pieces. Hope this helps in some way. Also, now that I always have a digital camera handy, I take lots of pictures of anything I take apart during the dis assembly for reference during assembly.. Danny From my Android phone Original message From: David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date: 05/18/2015 10:05 PM (GMT-05:00) To: CnC CnC discussion list CnC-List@cnc-list.com Cc: David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com Subject: Stus-List Heat exchanger problem I hope someone can help with this problem. I removed my heat exchanger from my Universal M4-30 last winter and had it cleaned out and a radiator shop and then I repainted it. As far as I can tell, the guy who did it did not pressure test it because it came back disassembled. I did not think much of it at the time. When I reassembled the end plates, it did not feel like the end caps were secured against the housing, but I assumed the gasket would do its job since I tightened the bolts as much as possible. Aries splashed today and when I started up the engine, water was spraying out of the end cap on one side an dripping from the other. The bolt is as tight as I can get it, but it still seems to not be putting enough pressure on the caps to seal. I was a bit confused about the assembly process. The order I thought was correct was the plate with the O ring on the bolt and the gasket over that. The plate has a slight recess that I thought was for the O ring, but it seems like the O ring might be preventing the plate from making good contact with the gasket. The way I assembled it looks like the picture on the Pbase site which is the only photo I can find (http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/heat_exchanger). Any words of wisdom out there? Thanks- Dave Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Heat exchanger problem
I used a new gasket and o-Ring from Toad. Marine. I did have a new thought about the problem overnight. For some reason that I can no longer remember, I put teflon tape on the threads of the end cap bolts. Was that a mistake and the teflon tape is keeping the bolts from tightening? Dave On May 19, 2015, at 6:26 AM, Jake Brodersen captain_j...@cox.net wrote: Dave, Is the gasket new? I doubt that a used gasket would seal in this situation. It has been crushed under heat and pressure. It probably has taken a set that keeps it from sealing properly. Jake Jake Brodersen “Midnight Mistress” CC 35 Mk-III Hampton VA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht via CnC-List Sent: Monday, May 18, 2015 10:06 PM To: CnC CnC discussion list Cc: David Knecht Subject: Stus-List Heat exchanger problem I hope someone can help with this problem. I removed my heat exchanger from my Universal M4-30 last winter and had it cleaned out and a radiator shop and then I repainted it. As far as I can tell, the guy who did it did not pressure test it because it came back disassembled. I did not think much of it at the time. When I reassembled the end plates, it did not feel like the end caps were secured against the housing, but I assumed the gasket would do its job since I tightened the bolts as much as possible. Aries splashed today and when I started up the engine, water was spraying out of the end cap on one side an dripping from the other. The bolt is as tight as I can get it, but it still seems to not be putting enough pressure on the caps to seal. I was a bit confused about the assembly process. The order I thought was correct was the plate with the O ring on the bolt and the gasket over that. The plate has a slight recess that I thought was for the O ring, but it seems like the O ring might be preventing the plate from making good contact with the gasket. The way I assembled it looks like the picture on the Pbase site which is the only photo I can find (http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/heat_exchanger). Any words of wisdom out there? Thanks- Dave Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT image001.png Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Heat exchanger problem
On May 19, 2015, at 6:15 AM, Danny Haughey djhaug...@juno.com wrote: Hi David, Two things stood out for me in you message. 1. Did you put the same end caps on the same side they came off? Good thought. I have no idea as they look identical. I guess I could swap them, but there is only one part number so they should be the same. 2. O-rings don't typically rest against a gasket. They are usually between two metal pieces. The only way that would work is if the O ring were outside the cap between the bolt head and the end cap. That is not what is in the picture on the Pbase site and not what I remember, but I could try it. Hope this helps in some way. Also, now that I always have a digital camera handy, I take lots of pictures of anything I take apart during the dis assembly for reference during assembly.. I try to do this, but I often forget and this seemed so simple (Ha Ha) that I didn’t. Someday I will learn that nothing is simple and just take pictures of every project. Thanks- Dave Danny From my Android phone Original message From: David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Date: 05/18/2015 10:05 PM (GMT-05:00) To: CnC CnC discussion list CnC-List@cnc-list.com Cc: David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com Subject: Stus-List Heat exchanger problem I hope someone can help with this problem. I removed my heat exchanger from my Universal M4-30 last winter and had it cleaned out and a radiator shop and then I repainted it. As far as I can tell, the guy who did it did not pressure test it because it came back disassembled. I did not think much of it at the time. When I reassembled the end plates, it did not feel like the end caps were secured against the housing, but I assumed the gasket would do its job since I tightened the bolts as much as possible. Aries splashed today and when I started up the engine, water was spraying out of the end cap on one side an dripping from the other. The bolt is as tight as I can get it, but it still seems to not be putting enough pressure on the caps to seal. I was a bit confused about the assembly process. The order I thought was correct was the plate with the O ring on the bolt and the gasket over that. The plate has a slight recess that I thought was for the O ring, but it seems like the O ring might be preventing the plate from making good contact with the gasket. The way I assembled it looks like the picture on the Pbase site which is the only photo I can find (http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/heat_exchanger). Any words of wisdom out there? Thanks- Dave Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Heat exchanger problem
We spent the day at the boat and managed to fix the problem. After many attempts to flatten the mating surfaces, we realized that the end cap was not flat so it was not making contact all around the heat exchanger body. We fashioned a new thicker gasket out of a cork composite material we got at a nearby auto parts store and when reassembled, no leaks. I will replace the end cap at some point, but for now I think the problem is solved. Thanks for the ideas- Dave On May 19, 2015, at 5:28 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: I reuse my old gasket every time I take the exchanger apart which is at least once a year to change the zinc and more often if I experience over heating. I've had the boat 12 years of it's 25 years. I think this proves the rubber gasket and O-ring are reusable. The bolts require a 9/16 wrench and no teflon tape or pipe dope since it's all rubber. You tighten the bolts gently, very little torgue. The temperature of the water is limited to 195 degrees and pressure is probably under 25# based purely on experience working with my engine. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md From: David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: Jake Brodersen captain_j...@cox.net, CnC CnC discussion list CnC-List@cnc-list.com Cc: David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2015 7:29:08 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Heat exchanger problem I used a new gasket and o-Ring from Toad. Marine. I did have a new thought about the problem overnight. For some reason that I can no longer remember, I put teflon tape on the threads of the end cap bolts. Was that a mistake and the teflon tape is keeping the bolts from tightening? Dave On May 19, 2015, at 6:26 AM, Jake Brodersen captain_j...@cox.net wrote: Dave, Is the gasket new? I doubt that a used gasket would seal in this situation. It has been crushed under heat and pressure. It probably has taken a set that keeps it from sealing properly. Jake Jake Brodersen “Midnight Mistress” CC 35 Mk-III Hampton VA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht via CnC-List Sent: Monday, May 18, 2015 10:06 PM To: CnC CnC discussion list Cc: David Knecht Subject: Stus-List Heat exchanger problem I hope someone can help with this problem. I removed my heat exchanger from my Universal M4-30 last winter and had it cleaned out and a radiator shop and then I repainted it. As far as I can tell, the guy who did it did not pressure test it because it came back disassembled. I did not think much of it at the time. When I reassembled the end plates, it did not feel like the end caps were secured against the housing, but I assumed the gasket would do its job since I tightened the bolts as much as possible. Aries splashed today and when I started up the engine, water was spraying out of the end cap on one side an dripping from the other. The bolt is as tight as I can get it, but it still seems to not be putting enough pressure on the caps to seal. I was a bit confused about the assembly process. The order I thought was correct was the plate with the O ring on the bolt and the gasket over that. The plate has a slight recess that I thought was for the O ring, but it seems like the O ring might be preventing the plate from making good contact with the gasket. The way I assembled it looks like the picture on the Pbase site which is the only photo I can find (http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/heat_exchanger). Any words of wisdom out there? Thanks- Dave Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT image001.png Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT pastedGraphic.tiff ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Heat exchanger problem
I reuse my old gasket every time I take the exchanger apart which is at least once a year to change the zinc and more often if I experience over heating. I've had the boat 12 years of it's 25 years. I think this proves the rubber gasket and O-ring are reusable. The bolts require a 9/16 wrench and no teflon tape or pipe dope since it's all rubber. You tighten the bolts gently, very little torgue. The temperature of the water is limited to 195 degrees and pressure is probably under 25# based purely on experience working with my engine. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md - Original Message - From: David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: Jake Brodersen captain_j...@cox.net, CnC CnC discussion list CnC-List@cnc-list.com Cc: David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2015 7:29:08 AM Subject: Re: Stus-List Heat exchanger problem I used a new gasket and o-Ring from Toad. Marine. I did have a new thought about the problem overnight. For some reason that I can no longer remember, I put teflon tape on the threads of the end cap bolts. Was that a mistake and the teflon tape is keeping the bolts from tightening? Dave On May 19, 2015, at 6:26 AM, Jake Brodersen captain_j...@cox.net wrote: Dave, Is the gasket new? I doubt that a used gasket would seal in this situation. It has been crushed under heat and pressure. It probably has taken a set that keeps it from sealing properly. Jake Jake Brodersen “Midnight Mistress” CC 35 Mk-III Hampton VA From: CnC-List [ mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com ] On Behalf Of David Knecht via CnC-List Sent: Monday, May 18, 2015 10:06 PM To: CnC CnC discussion list Cc: David Knecht Subject: Stus-List Heat exchanger problem I hope someone can help with this problem. I removed my heat exchanger from my Universal M4-30 last winter and had it cleaned out and a radiator shop and then I repainted it. As far as I can tell, the guy who did it did not pressure test it because it came back disassembled. I did not think much of it at the time. When I reassembled the end plates, it did not feel like the end caps were secured against the housing, but I assumed the gasket would do its job since I tightened the bolts as much as possible. Aries splashed today and when I started up the engine, water was spraying out of the end cap on one side an dripping from the other. The bolt is as tight as I can get it, but it still seems to not be putting enough pressure on the caps to seal. I was a bit confused about the assembly process. The order I thought was correct was the plate with the O ring on the bolt and the gasket over that. The plate has a slight recess that I thought was for the O ring, but it seems like the O ring might be preventing the plate from making good contact with the gasket. The way I assembled it looks like the picture on the Pbase site which is the only photo I can find ( http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/heat_exchanger ). Any words of wisdom out there? Thanks- Dave Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT image001.png Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Heat exchanger problem
I hope someone can help with this problem. I removed my heat exchanger from my Universal M4-30 last winter and had it cleaned out and a radiator shop and then I repainted it. As far as I can tell, the guy who did it did not pressure test it because it came back disassembled. I did not think much of it at the time. When I reassembled the end plates, it did not feel like the end caps were secured against the housing, but I assumed the gasket would do its job since I tightened the bolts as much as possible. Aries splashed today and when I started up the engine, water was spraying out of the end cap on one side an dripping from the other. The bolt is as tight as I can get it, but it still seems to not be putting enough pressure on the caps to seal. I was a bit confused about the assembly process. The order I thought was correct was the plate with the O ring on the bolt and the gasket over that. The plate has a slight recess that I thought was for the O ring, but it seems like the O ring might be preventing the plate from making good contact with the gasket. The way I assembled it looks like the picture on the Pbase site which is the only photo I can find (http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/heat_exchanger). Any words of wisdom out there? Thanks- Dave Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Heat exchanger
My heat exchanger on a Universal M4-30 has caps on the ends. I remove the single 9/16 cap screw on each end cap and remove them exposing the tubes. The raw water is what leaks out. The antifreeze is inside the shell, and it doesn't leak out. I rod out the tubes using small 1/8 wooden dowels I get from hobby stores like Michaels or even WalMart. I'd love to find pipe cleaners but haven't found them long enough. My heat exchanger is about 13 long so I buy the 3' long dowels and break em in half, and keep em in my spare engine parts container onboard. I do this once a season and for twelve years it seems to work well, reusing the OEM rubber gasket on each end. My heat exchanger has a pencil zinc that needs to be changed each spring. The inside of the shell can be acid cleaned to improve heat transfer. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md - Original Message - From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: CC List cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2015 10:16:01 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Heat exchanger First, I would try to suck/siphon enough coolant out and save it for reuse. Second, without the end bells on the core is removable. In fact in dire straights you can do so to make your fresh water cooled into a raw water cooled. That being said, I don't think you can remove the end bells without causing coolant to leak. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD As I progress through my cooling system I will have to clean out the heat exchanger on our 3HM35. I have a simple question, not covered in the repair manual I have... Can it be cleaned in place once the end caps are removed? And, if so, does this mean I don't have the drain the coolant? thx Tom Buscaglia S/V Alera 1990 CC 37+/40 Vashon WA P 206.463.9200 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Heat exchanger
The heat exchanger on my M35B is as you have described, except that the tubes can be cleaned with the jointed rod and barrel cleaning brush for a 22 caliber rifle, which I bought at a local hardware store. End gaskets get a bit or Permatex and get reused each year – though I do have a spare set in the parts box. Rick Brass Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2015 5:27 PM To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list Cc: Chuck S Subject: Re: Stus-List Heat exchanger My heat exchanger on a Universal M4-30 has caps on the ends. I remove the single 9/16 cap screw on each end cap and remove them exposing the tubes. The raw water is what leaks out. The antifreeze is inside the shell, and it doesn't leak out. I rod out the tubes using small 1/8 wooden dowels I get from hobby stores like Michaels or even WalMart. I'd love to find pipe cleaners but haven't found them long enough. My heat exchanger is about 13 long so I buy the 3' long dowels and break em in half, and keep em in my spare engine parts container onboard. I do this once a season and for twelve years it seems to work well, reusing the OEM rubber gasket on each end.My heat exchanger has a pencil zinc that needs to be changed each spring. The inside of the shell can be acid cleaned to improve heat transfer. Chuck Resolute 1990 CC 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md _ From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com To: CC List cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com mailto:muckl...@gmail.com Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2015 10:16:01 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List Heat exchanger First, I would try to suck/siphon enough coolant out and save it for reuse. Second, without the end bells on the core is removable. In fact in dire straights you can do so to make your fresh water cooled into a raw water cooled. That being said, I don't think you can remove the end bells without causing coolant to leak. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD As I progress through my cooling system I will have to clean out the heat exchanger on our 3HM35. I have a simple question, not covered in the repair manual I have... Can it be cleaned in place once the end caps are removed? And, if so, does this mean I don't have the drain the coolant? thx Tom Buscaglia S/V Alera 1990 CC 37+/40 Vashon WA P 206.463.9200 tel:206.463.9200 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Heat exchanger
As I progress through my cooling system I will have to clean out the heat exchanger on our 3HM35. I have a simple question, not covered in the repair manual I have... Can it be cleaned in place once the end caps are removed? And, if so, does this mean I don't have the drain the coolant? thx Tom Buscaglia S/V Alera 1990 CC 37+/40 Vashon WA P 206.463.9200 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Heat exchanger
First, I would try to suck/siphon enough coolant out and save it for reuse. Second, without the end bells on the core is removable. In fact in dire straights you can do so to make your fresh water cooled into a raw water cooled. That being said, I don't think you can remove the end bells without causing coolant to leak. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 CC 37+ Solomons, MD As I progress through my cooling system I will have to clean out the heat exchanger on our 3HM35. I have a simple question, not covered in the repair manual I have... Can it be cleaned in place once the end caps are removed? And, if so, does this mean I don't have the drain the coolant? thx Tom Buscaglia S/V Alera 1990 CC 37+/40 Vashon WA P 206.463.9200 ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Heat exchanger
Tom, if you can access the tubes with the heat exchanger in place. By all means do so. Although when I do this on Pegasus, I run a lot of water through it. Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA. -- Original message--From: Tom Buscaglia via CnC-ListDate: Sun, May 10, 2015 13:24To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Tom Buscaglia;Subject:Stus-List Heat exchangerAs I progress through my cooling system I will have to clean out the heat exchanger on our 3HM35. I have a simple question, not covered in the repair manual I have...Can it be cleaned in place once the end caps are removed? And, if so, does this mean I don't have the drain the coolant?thxTom BuscagliaS/V Alera 1990 CC 37+/40Vashon WAP 206.463.9200___Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.comTo change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Heat exchanger
Last weekend I managed to take the heat exchanger off my Universal M4-30 in order to figure out why it was leaking antifreeze. The trick that seemed to get the bolt I was having trouble with unstuck was heat from a grill lighter. Now that I have it home, I am going to replace the seals and O rings from the end caps. The zinc was completely gone, so doing that as well. I took the cap off the zinc but an inner threaded part stayed in place and nothing is sticking into the exchanger except the nub of zinc. 1. Am I right in presuming that nothing is holding it in there except gunk and corrosion and I can bang it out from the outside? This may be more obvious when I have the new part. 2. When I replace it, should I put something like Tefgel/Marelube on the threads or Loctite? 3. The larger problem is that several of the ports for tubing connections are seriously out of round as if they were mashed at some point (I don’t see how could have done it so I am blaming the proverbial PO). Should I worry about this and presume the clamp and flexibility of the tubing will seal (it seemed the end cap that was leaking, not the tubing ports) or is there some way to round the soft brass of the ports? Thanks as always- Dave . Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Heat exchanger
Only the threads on the cap hold the zinc in my M4-30 heat exchanger and the zinc pencil is treaded into the bronze cap so the cap is reusable. Despite that the engine is fresh water cooled and charged with a 50/50 water antifreeze mix I change the zinc pencil about every 2 years and I use teflon tape on the cap treads that meet up with the heat exchanger...the zincs are only partially eaten away after 2 years and could probably go longer but why try for longer, they are inexpensive to replace. I find it better to shorten the zinc pencils to about 1 inch or so showing above the treads, that makes installation from underneathe easier for me. Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, *Alianna* Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS d.ve...@bellaliant.net On Thu, Apr 2, 2015 at 9:08 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Last weekend I managed to take the heat exchanger off my Universal M4-30 in order to figure out why it was leaking antifreeze. The trick that seemed to get the bolt I was having trouble with unstuck was heat from a grill lighter. Now that I have it home, I am going to replace the seals and O rings from the end caps. The zinc was completely gone, so doing that as well. I took the cap off the zinc but an inner threaded part stayed in place and nothing is sticking into the exchanger except the nub of zinc. 1. Am I right in presuming that nothing is holding it in there except gunk and corrosion and I can bang it out from the outside? This may be more obvious when I have the new part. 2. When I replace it, should I put something like Tefgel/Marelube on the threads or Loctite? 3. The larger problem is that several of the ports for tubing connections are seriously out of round as if they were mashed at some point (I don’t see how could have done it so I am blaming the proverbial PO). Should I worry about this and presume the clamp and flexibility of the tubing will seal (it seemed the end cap that was leaking, not the tubing ports) or is there some way to round the soft brass of the ports? Thanks as always- Dave . Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Heat exchanger
Since your zinc was completely gone, I’d take it to a rad shop and have them replace the seals, boil it and pressure test it ... and I bet they’d replace the zinc too. Peace of mind! From: dwight veinot via CnC-List Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2015 6:01 AM To: David Knecht ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Heat exchanger Only the threads on the cap hold the zinc in my M4-30 heat exchanger and the zinc pencil is treaded into the bronze cap so the cap is reusable. Despite that the engine is fresh water cooled and charged with a 50/50 water antifreeze mix I change the zinc pencil about every 2 years and I use teflon tape on the cap treads that meet up with the heat exchanger...the zincs are only partially eaten away after 2 years and could probably go longer but why try for longer, they are inexpensive to replace. I find it better to shorten the zinc pencils to about 1 inch or so showing above the treads, that makes installation from underneathe easier for me. Dwight Veinot CC 35 MKII, Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS d.ve...@bellaliant.net On Thu, Apr 2, 2015 at 9:08 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote: Last weekend I managed to take the heat exchanger off my Universal M4-30 in order to figure out why it was leaking antifreeze. The trick that seemed to get the bolt I was having trouble with unstuck was heat from a grill lighter. Now that I have it home, I am going to replace the seals and O rings from the end caps. The zinc was completely gone, so doing that as well. I took the cap off the zinc but an inner threaded part stayed in place and nothing is sticking into the exchanger except the nub of zinc. 1. Am I right in presuming that nothing is holding it in there except gunk and corrosion and I can bang it out from the outside? This may be more obvious when I have the new part. 2. When I replace it, should I put something like Tefgel/Marelube on the threads or Loctite? 3. The larger problem is that several of the ports for tubing connections are seriously out of round as if they were mashed at some point (I don’t see how could have done it so I am blaming the proverbial PO). Should I worry about this and presume the clamp and flexibility of the tubing will seal (it seemed the end cap that was leaking, not the tubing ports) or is there some way to round the soft brass of the ports? Thanks as always- Dave . Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List Heat exchanger
Dave, if you try to round out the fittings, I believe it's called a swagging tool that should work for you. Hvac tools or maybe plumber or a rad shop. Maybe Harbour Freight or whatever that tool chain store is called will have one. Good luck. Len Mitchell CC 37+ Midland On. Sent from my mobile device. ___ Email address: CnC-List@cnc-list.com To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at: http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
Stus-List heat exchanger cleaning
best cleaning is high pressure steam clean gets it all...industrial users boiler makers some industrial freezer repair facilities etc.will do it very low costand it will be done right for a number of years ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
