Hey Rod
No, nope, no way Stay away from the knife!
I was a certified aircraft painter, while in the Navy! Went through their
extensive school.
We would use a chemical, depending on paint type. If we ever scraped, we would
use a piece of soft to hard plastic, sharpened like a chisel. As a last resort
we would use a small piece of plexiglass, sharpened like a chisel!
The softer the better. The pain bleed usually does not adhere all that well,
because that surface was not prepared like the area that was painted.
This is not knowing if the surface that was bled onto was painted also.
But the key is to use the least and work to the more aggressive.
What I might suggest is using a plexiglass gleaner, on a soft rag, a couple of
drops or just your hand. Little circles until the liquid disappears. I use it
to take very light haze out of my motorcycle. Great stuff!
Sent from my iPhone
> On May 18, 2020, at 11:31 AM, Rod Stright via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
>
> Just finished painting the three boot stripes on my C 99. They look great
> but as expected, although the Frog masking tape was great and left a sharp
> lines there are a couple of areas where the paint bled through the making
> tape. Anyone have any secrets for cleaning that up, other than an exacto
> knife and scraper?
>
> Thanks
> Rod Stright
> C 99
>
> From: CnC-List On Behalf Of General Gao via
> CnC-List
> Sent: May-18-20 12:42 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: General Gao
> Subject: Re: Stus-List speedometer - C 35 Mk2
>
> thank you everyone. I really appreciate the information. I will go check and
> report back.
>
> Stay safe!
>
> Bo
>
> On Mon, May 18, 2020 at 8:32 AM Ken Heaton via CnC-List
> wrote:
> Yup, that's correct. If there are only two wires coming from the paddlewheel
> transducer, it is likely this 'generator' type as a more modern hall effect
> transducer will have at least three wires (I think).
>
> Of course a broke wire or bad connection anywhere between the transducer and
> the instrument will cause it all to not work. We would just pull the
> transducer and connect it directly to the back of the instrument to see what
> happens.
>
> From the Troubleshooting section (last page) of the pdf I linked:
>
> TROUBLESHOOTING
>
> DISPLAY READS ZERO- The problem could be either the transmitter or the
> display. Please follow the proceeding steps to determine cause of the problem-
>
> A. Measure the two wires of the transmitter with an ohm meter for resistance
> value of approximately 2000 ohms (2K ohms). Do not spin the paddlewheel.
> a. If unit is good, then check paddlewheel for any broken fins or missing
> magnets.
> b. If unit is open (infinite resistance) then unit needs replacing.
> B. Measure with an AC voltmeter when the paddlewheel is spinning. You should
> get approximately 1.0 VAC at about 5 knots of speed when unloaded (not hooked
> up to display).
>
> INTERMITTENT READINGS- Keep the unit wired as normal and add an AC voltmeter
> to where the input wires of the transmitter are connected. Motor or sail as
> usual-
>
> A. If an AC voltage is being produced but no speed indication appears on
> display, then the problem is in the display.
> B. If readings only occur when voltages are produced, then the paddlewheel is
> not always turning. Clean paddlewheel first and be sure it spins freely, and
> then try again. If the results are the same then paddlewheel may need
> replacing.
>
>
>
> On Mon, 18 May 2020 at 09:18, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
> wrote:
> So if I understand it correctly, the theory of operation for these generator
> style knot meters would simply be a 2 wire system and a voltage developed
> between the two? I would expect that a simple initial test would be for
> continuity between the two wires with the wheel stopped. Then spin the wheel
> and check for voltage proportional to the speed of the wheel.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Mon, May 18, 2020, 07:38 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List
> wrote:
> There are (were) some generator knotmeters. Coquina came with one when
> we bought her. If memory serves, it topped out at 10 or 12 knots and it
> was always fun to peg it :)
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> On 5/18/2020 5:32 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote:
> > Have you looked at this web page? This takes yo to the manuals for SR
> > Mariner Instruments (since 1973):
> > https://srinstruments.com/manuals#mariner_manuals
> >
> > The only SR Mariner Knotmeter I ever worked on (on a friend's C 35
> > Mk.I 1973) was self powered. In other words, no external power was
> > needed (except for the backlight for the instrument face for night
> > use), the paddle-wheel seemed to be a generator.
> >
> > More info here: https://srinstruments.com/r/manuals/public/MANSELF.pdf
> >
> > Ken H.
> >
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with
