Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain

2014-05-13 Thread Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
I would not use 3/8” line for anchoring anything but a dinghy. Not that would 
snap outright, but it has no margin at all for chafe and wear. FYI right now I 
have 30 feet of 5/16” chain and 5/8” rode. I used to have 12 feet of ¼” chain 
and half inch rode. It survived a hurricane, so it was obviously strong enough. 
We had all 200 feet out in about 10 feet of water and the boat felt like she 
was on a giant bungee cord as the hurricane bands passed over. I got away from 
eye splices and shackles on the end of the rode and now just splice it straight 
to the chain – much easier to retrieve over the bow roller and cheaper too ☺

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
CC 35 MK I
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Watts 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2014 11:43 PM
To: Chuck S; 1 CnC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain

Considering I use 1/4 HT chain and 1/2 nylon for Shift, I have to agree. 3/8 
nylon would be appropriate to give enough stretch with strength.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 12 May 2014 17:59, Chuck S via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
Mark,
Sounds like you are building a hurricane proof anchoring system?   5/8 nylon 
is hard to get onto cleats smaller than 10.   Just sayin.

Following Chapman's, I tried 5/8 docklines and found I could never get them 
over my 6 and even 8 cleats.  I use 1/2 nylon three strand twisted for lunch 
hook and 1/2 stretchy double braid for tougher situations.  36' and 11000#.   
Gave more than 200' of 5/8 nylon docklines to my brother-in-law for his 
clamboats.

If you are committed to your present system, you should check out Wichard for 
amazingly strong schackles in small sizes.  Their SS is the strongest.

Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Atlantic City, NJ


From: CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list 
cnc-list@cnc-list.commailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2014 1:52:33 PM
Subject: Stus-List Shackles and chain



Needed to replace the chain and shackles on my anchor - the existing
shackles needed to be cut off with a cut-off blade (totally corroded).

Bought 16' of 5/16 galv chain to add to connect the 27lb Kingston plow
anchor and the ~250ft of 5/8 rode.
But I was surprised to find that I couldn't fit the U of a 3/8 shackle
(or even a 5/16) through the 5/16 chain.  Everything I read said I
should bump up the shackle one size from the chain to maintain working
strength - but given I couldn't fit the ends of the U through the chain
links I had to use 2 shackles on the anchor --- one with the pin through
the anchor and a second shackle reversed with the pin through the chain
link.

Is that normal?  I tried chain a 2 different locations with same results

Mark

--


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
   - George Santayana


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Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain

2014-05-13 Thread Rick Brass via CnC-List
Many years ago, a salty old retired USCG chief taught me the rule of thumb that 
you should have one pound of anchor and one foot of chain for every foot of 
boat length.

I decided this current discussion would be a good time to double check that 
rule of thumb.

I was pleased to find that Boat/US mAkes the same recommendation. Fortress 
anchor calls for less weight in their aluminum anchors, and a relatively short 
length of chain to help in setting the light anchor. But for steel anchors and 
a 30 knot wind, Fortress also says the pound/foot/foot system is recommended.

Mark, I have to agree that 5/8 anchor rode is more than you need.

I also use 1/4 HT chain and 1/2 3-strand for the anchor rode on my 38. I do 
have 65' of chain in each rode and oversized anchors, because once the anchor 
is down I want it to stay down.

According to what I found this morning, the load on a typical sailboat at 
anchor in various wind strengths is:

@15kt.   @30kt.  @42kt.   @50kt
30'.175#.700#. 1400#.   2800#
35'. 225.   900.  1800. 3600
40'. 300.   1200. 2400.4800


Max working load of New England Ropes 3-strand is 1/3 of break strength (I 
prefer to use 25% in sizing the line myself). Break strength for various sizes 
are:
3/8.4400 #
1/2.7800
9/16.   9400
5/8. 12,200

So 1/2 rode should be adequate for a 30' boat in almost 50 kts, a 35' boat in 
42+, or a 40' boat in well over 30 knots. I will almost always deploy a second 
anchor if the winds will be 30+.

As far as what chain to use, the working load for various size chain is:
Proof coil.  HT (G4).  BBB
1/4.1300. 2600
5/16.   1800. 3900.3800
3/8. 2650.  5400
So one could use big chain to increase catenary and help the anchor stay set, 
but 1/4HT is strong enough for up to a 40' boat in any reasonable conditions.

Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad

 On May 12, 2014, at 23:42, Jim Watts via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 Considering I use 1/4 HT chain and 1/2 nylon for Shift, I have to agree. 
 3/8 nylon would be appropriate to give enough stretch with strength. 
 
 Jim Watts
 Paradigm Shift
 CC 35 Mk III
 Victoria, BC
 
 
 On 12 May 2014 17:59, Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:
 Mark,
 Sounds like you are building a hurricane proof anchoring system?   5/8 
 nylon is hard to get onto cleats smaller than 10.   Just sayin.
 
 Following Chapman's, I tried 5/8 docklines and found I could never get them 
 over my 6 and even 8 cleats.  I use 1/2 nylon three strand twisted for 
 lunch hook and 1/2 stretchy double braid for tougher situations.  36' and 
 11000#.   Gave more than 200' of 5/8 nylon docklines to my brother-in-law 
 for his clamboats.
 
 If you are committed to your present system, you should check out Wichard 
 for amazingly strong schackles in small sizes.  Their SS is the strongest.
 
 Chuck
 Resolute
 1990 CC 34R
 Atlantic City, NJ
 
 From: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Sent: Monday, May 12, 2014 1:52:33 PM
 Subject: Stus-List Shackles and chain
 
 
 
 Needed to replace the chain and shackles on my anchor - the existing 
 shackles needed to be cut off with a cut-off blade (totally corroded).
 
 Bought 16' of 5/16 galv chain to add to connect the 27lb Kingston plow 
 anchor and the ~250ft of 5/8 rode.
 But I was surprised to find that I couldn't fit the U of a 3/8 shackle 
 (or even a 5/16) through the 5/16 chain.  Everything I read said I 
 should bump up the shackle one size from the chain to maintain working 
 strength - but given I couldn't fit the ends of the U through the chain 
 links I had to use 2 shackles on the anchor --- one with the pin through 
 the anchor and a second shackle reversed with the pin through the chain 
 link.
 
 Is that normal?  I tried chain a 2 different locations with same results
 
 Mark
 
 -- 
 
 
 There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
- George Santayana
 
 
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Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain

2014-05-13 Thread Bill Bina via CnC-List

On 5/13/2014 12:59 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:


On the topic of anchors and anchoring.  Does anyone have any thoughts 
on kelets or anchor buddies?




I ALWAYS use a kellet made from a small vinyl coated mushroom anchor, a 
couple of carabiners, 30 feet of small diameter line for retrieval, and 
one of these so it glides up and down the anchor line:


http://www.ems.com/product/index.jsp?productId=4055115cp=3677347.11360113

Open the pulley and slip it over the rode. Slide it closed, and hang the 
anchor on it using the carabiner. Retrieval line is tied to the 
carabiner. Easy-peasey!


In over 50 years, in conditions mild to wild, I have never dragged while 
using a kellet. I consider it essential, and it really is nothing to 
deploy and retrieve it.


Bill Bina





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Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain

2014-05-13 Thread Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
They can be invaluable if you have a short length of chain and are anchoring in 
a current. Absent a kellet or enough chain, being anchored off Chestertown with 
a 2 knot reversing current always ends up with the rode around the keel.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina CC 35 MK I
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2014 12:59 PM
To: CC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain


On the topic of anchors and anchoring.  Does anyone have any thoughts on kelets 
or anchor buddies?
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Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain

2014-05-13 Thread Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
I am far from being an expert on the topic, but the use of kellets always 
brings some discussions.

Compare some of these:

http://www.petersmith.net.nz/boat-anchors/kellets.php

http://cruising.coastalboating.net/Seamanship/Anchoring/Kellets.html

http://kb.rocna.com/kb/Kellets_and_buoys

just my $0.02

Marek



From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2014 1:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain

They can be invaluable if you have a short length of chain and are anchoring in 
a current. Absent a kellet or enough chain, being anchored off Chestertown with 
a 2 knot reversing current always ends up with the rode around the keel.

 

Joe Della Barba

Coquina CC 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2014 12:59 PM
To: CC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain

 

On the topic of anchors and anchoring.  Does anyone have any thoughts on kelets 
or anchor buddies?




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Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain

2014-05-13 Thread Fair, Mike via CnC-List
An excellent 25 lb bronze one came with my boat and I all ways use it. It is 
very helpful if you anchor where the currents shift with the tide. 

I can put 70LBs of metal near  or on the bottom. But only retrieve 40lbs at a 
time. Much easier on the back.

Mike
Padanaram, MA


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2014 1:12 PM
To: Josh Muckley; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain

On 5/13/2014 12:59 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:

 On the topic of anchors and anchoring.  Does anyone have any thoughts 
 on kelets or anchor buddies?


I ALWAYS use a kellet made from a small vinyl coated mushroom anchor, a couple 
of carabiners, 30 feet of small diameter line for retrieval, and one of these 
so it glides up and down the anchor line:

http://www.ems.com/product/index.jsp?productId=4055115cp=3677347.11360113

Open the pulley and slip it over the rode. Slide it closed, and hang the anchor 
on it using the carabiner. Retrieval line is tied to the carabiner. Easy-peasey!

In over 50 years, in conditions mild to wild, I have never dragged while using 
a kellet. I consider it essential, and it really is nothing to deploy and 
retrieve it.

Bill Bina





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Stus-List Shackles and chain

2014-05-13 Thread Robert Boyer via CnC-List
I think Joel is right in that what is unusual is that heavy anchor line and 
chain size for only a 27-lb anchor.  I use that size anchor line and chain on 
my 44-lb anchor!

Bob

Bob Boyer
(Sent from my iPad4)
S/V Rainy Days
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
Annapolis, Maryland
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

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Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain

2014-05-13 Thread Bill Bina via CnC-List
Uh-oh. Buncha sailors comparing the size of their anchors. This won't 
end well! ;-)


Bill Bina

On 5/13/2014 2:38 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List wrote:

I think Joel is right in that what is unusual is that heavy anchor line and 
chain size for only a 27-lb anchor.  I use that size anchor line and chain on 
my 44-lb anchor!

Bob

Bob Boyer
(Sent from my iPad4)
S/V Rainy Days
1983 CC Landfall 38 - Hull #230
Annapolis, Maryland
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

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Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain

2014-05-13 Thread Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List

  
  

  Chuck,
  Thanks for the info.  I'm just going with what was on the boat
  when I bought it --- with only a 27lb plow/CQR anchor (Kingston
  K27) I can't imagine I'll over stress the 5/8" line --- but given
  there was 200+' of line already in my bow anchor locker all I
  needed to to do was replace the rusted chain and add new shackles.
  
  Looking online (Mantus Anchors and the Kingston anchor site) -
  they recommend 5/16" chain and 1/2 or 5/8" line. 
  
  I'll have to check how well the line clips into the foredeck
  cleats -- never tested it!
  
  Mark
  
  
There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
  On 12/05/2014 9:59 PM, Chuck S wrote:


  
Mark,
Sounds like you are building a
  hurricane proof anchoring system?   5/8" nylon is hard to get
  onto cleats smaller than 10".   Just sayin.



Following Chapman's, I tried 5/8"
  docklines and found I could never get them over my 6" and even
  8" cleats.  I use 1/2" nylon three strand twisted for lunch
  hook and 1/2" stretchy double braid for tougher situations. 
  36' and 11000#.   Gave more than 200' of 5/8" nylon docklines
  to my brother-in-law for his clamboats.



If you are committed to your
  present system, you should check out Wichard for amazingly
  strong schackles in small sizes.  Their SS is the strongest.



Chuck
  Resolute
  1990 CC 34R
  Atlantic City, NJ




From: "CNC
  boat owners, cnc-list" cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"
  cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Sent: Monday, May 12, 2014 1:52:33 PM
  Subject: Stus-List Shackles and chain
  
  
  
  Needed to replace the chain and shackles on my anchor - the
  existing 
  shackles needed to be cut off with a cut-off blade (totally
  corroded).
  
  
  Bought 16' of 5/16 galv chain to add to connect the 27lb
  Kingston plow 
  anchor and the ~250ft of 5/8" rode.
  But I was surprised to find that I couldn't fit the U of a
  3/8" shackle 
  (or even a 5/16") through the 5/16 chain.  Everything I read
  said I 
  should bump up the shackle one size from the chain to maintain
  working 
  strength - but given I couldn't fit the ends of the U through
  the chain 
  links I had to use 2 shackles on the anchor --- one with the
  pin through 
  the anchor and a second shackle reversed with the pin through
  the chain 
  link.
  
  
  Is that normal?  I tried chain a 2 different locations with
  same results
  
  
  Mark
  
  
  -- 
  
  
  
  There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the
  interval.
     - George Santayana
  
  
  
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Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain

2014-05-13 Thread Chuck S via CnC-List
Our boat has a bulb with a stinger that extends past the trailing edge of the 
keel. I use a kellet, (Walmart 20# mushroom anchor) and it does a good job to 
keep the slack on the bottom and a small round fender to keep the line near the 
surface as far from the bow as possible, but found the best prevention, is an 
alarm clock to check the anchor during a tide change. If the wind is opposite 
the current, we anchor somewhere else. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 CC 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 

- Original Message -

From: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
To: CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2014 1:33:24 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain 



They can be invaluable if you have a short length of chain and are anchoring in 
a current. Absent a kellet or enough chain, being anchored off Chestertown with 
a 2 knot reversing current always ends up with the rode around the keel. 



Joe Della Barba 

Coquina CC 35 MK I 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2014 12:59 PM 
To: CC List 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain 



On the topic of anchors and anchoring. Does anyone have any thoughts on kelets 
or anchor buddies? 

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Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain

2014-05-12 Thread Dennis C. via CnC-List
Mark,

A bit of a chain primer might shed some light on this.  Many boaters think
chain is just chain.

However, chain isn't just chain.  Chain is designated by both size and
type.  Size can even be US or metric.

There are several different types of chain.  Chain can be designated BBB,
proof coil, G3, G4, G34, S4, HT (high test), transport, AlloyGr80,
AlloyGr100 and other types.  Some of these types are just different names
for the same chain. Each chain type has different dimensions, even for the
same size.  Different grades have different strengths.  For instance, 5/16
G4 is stronger than 3/8 BBB.

Also, windlass gypsies are made for certain size and type of chains.  They
don't like other chains.

Commonly, anchor chain is usually BBB, G34 or G4.  High end boats may use
S4.

So, you may have a chain different than what you think.  Go here:

http://www.1st-chainsupply.com/index_chain.htm

On the left you will see a link called Reference then a second link
called Chain Data.  Selecting one of the chains may help you identify
which chain you have and then help you select a shackle.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Mon, May 12, 2014 at 12:52 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:


 Needed to replace the chain and shackles on my anchor - the existing
 shackles needed to be cut off with a cut-off blade (totally corroded).

 Bought 16' of 5/16 galv chain to add to connect the 27lb Kingston plow
 anchor and the ~250ft of 5/8 rode.
 But I was surprised to find that I couldn't fit the U of a 3/8 shackle
 (or even a 5/16) through the 5/16 chain.  Everything I read said I should
 bump up the shackle one size from the chain to maintain working strength -
 but given I couldn't fit the ends of the U through the chain links I had to
 use 2 shackles on the anchor --- one with the pin through the anchor and a
 second shackle reversed with the pin through the chain link.

 Is that normal?  I tried chain a 2 different locations with same results

 Mark

 --


 There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
   - George Santayana


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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain

2014-05-12 Thread Jim Watts via CnC-List
Considering I use 1/4 HT chain and 1/2 nylon for Shift, I have to agree.
3/8 nylon would be appropriate to give enough stretch with strength.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
CC 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC


On 12 May 2014 17:59, Chuck S via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Mark,
 Sounds like you are building a hurricane proof anchoring system?   5/8
 nylon is hard to get onto cleats smaller than 10.   Just sayin.

 Following Chapman's, I tried 5/8 docklines and found I could never get
 them over my 6 and even 8 cleats.  I use 1/2 nylon three strand twisted
 for lunch hook and 1/2 stretchy double braid for tougher situations.  36'
 and 11000#.   Gave more than 200' of 5/8 nylon docklines to my
 brother-in-law for his clamboats.

 If you are committed to your present system, you should check out Wichard
 for amazingly strong schackles in small sizes.  Their SS is the strongest.

 Chuck
 Resolute
 1990 CC 34R
 Atlantic City, NJ

 --
 *From: *CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *To: *CNC boat owners, cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 *Sent: *Monday, May 12, 2014 1:52:33 PM
 *Subject: *Stus-List Shackles and chain



 Needed to replace the chain and shackles on my anchor - the existing
 shackles needed to be cut off with a cut-off blade (totally corroded).

 Bought 16' of 5/16 galv chain to add to connect the 27lb Kingston plow
 anchor and the ~250ft of 5/8 rode.
 But I was surprised to find that I couldn't fit the U of a 3/8 shackle
 (or even a 5/16) through the 5/16 chain.  Everything I read said I
 should bump up the shackle one size from the chain to maintain working
 strength - but given I couldn't fit the ends of the U through the chain
 links I had to use 2 shackles on the anchor --- one with the pin through
 the anchor and a second shackle reversed with the pin through the chain
 link.

 Is that normal?  I tried chain a 2 different locations with same results

 Mark

 --


 There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
- George Santayana


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