Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff
Joel, Fortunately we didn’t do any anchoring in the Annapolis-Bermuda race this year! Me: 5’ of chain and 100’ of 3/8” of three strand anchor line. We racers keep it light. 8-) Jake From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2016 11:13 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Joel Aronson Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff My 35/3 had a fairly light Danforth and 10 feet of chain. I used it only as a lunch hook, and it was pretty easy to haul up by hand. My 44 has a 35 pound anchor (considered light for the boat by many) and 25 feet of 3/8 stainless chain. When I tripped the breaker on the windlass and did not know how to reset it, I needed help hauling up the anchor and chain. Can't live with em, can't live without em! Joel ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff
Without significant chain or a kellet, the reversing tide at Chestertown does a superb job of wrapping your anchor line around the keel and/or rudder. Joe Della Barba Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2016 13:44 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Joel Aronson Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff I've not used a kellet, but another C&C owner, chef2sail, uses one and swears by it. FWIW. Joel ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff
I've not used a kellet, but another C&C owner, chef2sail, uses one and swears by it. FWIW. Joel ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff
Mark, I read the article attached but came to a slightly different conclusion regarding anchor and rode construction and deployment. (I also wonder what Mr. Smith's association is with Rocna anchors). I'll concur, any anchor rode or mooring rope can be stretched to its limits with enough force, be it from wind, waves, or current. While catenary of chain rode doesn't come close to equaling the tensile strength of the chain itself, it will lessen the effects of wave movements and other forces. Not everything about anchor rode is about keeping the anchor from dislodging from the sea bed. A boat that rides well at anchor generally doesn't have a jerking and lurching motion, which can be offset by. You guessed it. catenary in the anchor rode. I'll also put in a plug for using a snubber in areas where you'll likely get strong wind and waves that may put an anchor and rode to the test. But for all the reasons suggested by other posters, I'll continue to keep a length of chain between my stretchy 8 plait rope and CQR anchor. Not 100% chain, not 100% rope, a combination. Chuck Gilchrest S/V Half Magic 1983 Landfall 35 Padanaram, MA From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2016 1:01 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dr. Mark Bodnar Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff I can't offer up anywhere near the experience of others on this list - so I depend on learning from more experienced sailors. This group is part of that, plus I pay for a membership with Attainable Cruising Adventure - https://www.morganscloud.com/ - lots of great info that has been tried and tested in challenging climates (including an extensive discussion on jacklines and tethers) On the topic of catenary effects of chain - they argue that the effects are pretty minimal. This article is offered as evidence of the calculations. Chain still offers some benefits, just not so much in catenary effect. http://www.petersmith.net.nz/boat-anchors/catenary.php Mark There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. - George Santana On 2016-08-17 11:18 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List wrote: Chuck, Avoiding chain on anchor rode means you're giving up one of the most important aspects of the rode: the catenary effect of shock absorbsion. By allowing some of the chain to lie on the ocean (or lake) bottom, the effort that it takes to lift the chain off the bottom before the line goes taut, serves as a shock absorber to wave, wind, or current. Also, using chain on an anchor rode means you can get by with a somewhat shorter scope in a crowded anchorage without worrying that your anchor will break free. Using only rope between your clean and the anchor allows for very little catenary and as such, your cleat and the anchor rope is bearing the entire shock load of the boat all the time. If I had only rope on my anchor line, I would make sure I had a proper anchor rode snubber, rubber or otherwise, to manage those loads. On Half Magic, we use 25' of 5/16" Galv BBB chain spliced to 200' of 5/8" NovEight Novabraid 8 plait rope with a 25lb CQR anchor (which is probably a bit light for the size and weight of the boat). We rarely anchor in more than 20' of water where we sail although we might rethink that if we decide to cruise up in Maine or Nova Scotia. Chuck Gilchrest S/V Half Magic 1983 Landfall 35 Padanaram, MA ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff
I completely agree with Mark's comments about chain--the big advantage is chafe protection in areas where there is coral and not the shock absorbing of the catenary effect. Actually, you need a snubber made from nylon rope to get any significant shock absorbing benefit. I have one rode with all chain and I made a snubber for this rode. My secondary anchor has 40 feet of chain and the remainder is rope. Both anchors are 44-lb. This anchor system is setup for the Bahamas. I just added a windlass for my primary anchor with all chain rode. If I thought I could get by with a 33-lb anchor I would not have added the windlass. On the Chesapeake Bay I used a 33-lb anchor with 10 feet of chain for over 20 years but the holding is generally very good. Bob Bob Boyer S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230) Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com Email: dainyr...@icloud.com Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore) > On Aug 17, 2016, at 1:00 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List > wrote: > > > I can't offer up anywhere near the experience of others on this list - so I > depend on learning from more experienced sailors. This group is part of > that, plus I pay for a membership with Attainable Cruising Adventure - > https://www.morganscloud.com/ - lots of great info that has been tried and > tested in challenging climates (including an extensive discussion on > jacklines and tethers) > On the topic of catenary effects of chain - they argue that the effects are > pretty minimal. This article is offered as evidence of the calculations. > Chain still offers some benefits, just not so much in catenary effect. > http://www.petersmith.net.nz/boat-anchors/catenary.php > > Mark > There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. > - George Santana >> On 2016-08-17 11:18 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List wrote: >> Chuck, >> Avoiding chain on anchor rode means you’re giving up one of the most >> important aspects of the rode: the catenary effect of shock absorbsion. By >> allowing some of the chain to lie on the ocean (or lake) bottom, the effort >> that it takes to lift the chain off the bottom before the line goes taut, >> serves as a shock absorber to wave, wind, or current. Also, using chain on >> an anchor rode means you can get by with a somewhat shorter scope in a >> crowded anchorage without worrying that your anchor will break free. >> Using only rope between your clean and the anchor allows for very little >> catenary and as such, your cleat and the anchor rope is bearing the entire >> shock load of the boat all the time. If I had only rope on my anchor line, >> I would make sure I had a proper anchor rode snubber, rubber or otherwise, >> to manage those loads. >> On Half Magic, we use 25’ of 5/16” Galv BBB chain spliced to 200’ of 5/8” >> NovEight Novabraid 8 plait rope with a 25lb CQR anchor (which is probably a >> bit light for the size and weight of the boat). We rarely anchor in more >> than 20’ of water where we sail although we might rethink that if we decide >> to cruise up in Maine or Nova Scotia. >> >> Chuck Gilchrest >> S/V Half Magic >> 1983 Landfall 35 >> Padanaram, MA >> >> >> >> >> ___ >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like >> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions >> are greatly appreciated! >> >> >> >> ___ >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like >> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions >> are greatly appreciated! > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like > what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions > are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff
I used to use a kellet before I had my 30 feet of chain. They do work. If you use nylon anyplace there is coral prepare to see your boat float away with a cut anchor line. Joe Della Barba Coquina From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of S Thomas via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2016 13:20 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: S Thomas Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff I used to see a lot of writing about the use of kellets as a way to reduce scope requirements or otherwise improve the effectiveness of ground tackle. Is anyone using one now? Are they an effective option? The idea makes sense to me, especially if hand hauling, otherwise just use a heavier chain. I have been pretty much resigned to having to purchase and install a bow roller, all chain rode, and a windlass for my C&C36 project. I had been led to believe that all chain is the only good option for Caribbean cruising. Certainly it is popular, but some of the comments in this thread have me wondering if a boat length of chain and the rest nylon might still be a viable option. A dragging anchor in a crowded anchorage would be problem enough without having physical problems retrieving the ground tackle. Steve Thomas C&C27 MKIII Port Stanley, ON C&C36 Merritt Island, FL - Original Message - From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' Cc: Della Barba, Joe<mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2016 11:02 Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff I use 30 feet of chain because I got tired of all the cruisers anchoring with all chain and me having to be way off to allow 7:1 scope swing room. Having 30 feet of 5/16 and anchoring in usually 8-15 feet of water works well. I have no windlass now, but I wouldn’t mind one. IMHO much past 35 feet and lack of a windlass will be painful with the correct size chain and anchor. Joe Coquina C&C 35 MK I From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G Street via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2016 10:52 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Cc: Frederick G Street Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff Also, anyone who cruises in tropical areas NEEDS chain, to avoid chafe on the occasional chuck of dead coral... Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI On Aug 17, 2016, at 9:18 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Chuck, Avoiding chain on anchor rode means you’re giving up one of the most important aspects of the rode: the catenary effect of shock absorbsion. By allowing some of the chain to lie on the ocean (or lake) bottom, the effort that it takes to lift the chain off the bottom before the line goes taut, serves as a shock absorber to wave, wind, or current. Also, using chain on an anchor rode means you can get by with a somewhat shorter scope in a crowded anchorage without worrying that your anchor will break free. Using only rope between your clean and the anchor allows for very little catenary and as such, your cleat and the anchor rope is bearing the entire shock load of the boat all the time. If I had only rope on my anchor line, I would make sure I had a proper anchor rode snubber, rubber or otherwise, to manage those loads. On Half Magic, we use 25’ of 5/16” Galv BBB chain spliced to 200’ of 5/8” NovEight Novabraid 8 plait rope with a 25lb CQR anchor (which is probably a bit light for the size and weight of the boat). We rarely anchor in more than 20’ of water where we sail although we might rethink that if we decide to cruise up in Maine or Nova Scotia. Chuck Gilchrest S/V Half Magic 1983 Landfall 35 Padanaram, MA ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff
I used to see a lot of writing about the use of kellets as a way to reduce scope requirements or otherwise improve the effectiveness of ground tackle. Is anyone using one now? Are they an effective option? The idea makes sense to me, especially if hand hauling, otherwise just use a heavier chain. I have been pretty much resigned to having to purchase and install a bow roller, all chain rode, and a windlass for my C&C36 project. I had been led to believe that all chain is the only good option for Caribbean cruising. Certainly it is popular, but some of the comments in this thread have me wondering if a boat length of chain and the rest nylon might still be a viable option. A dragging anchor in a crowded anchorage would be problem enough without having physical problems retrieving the ground tackle. Steve Thomas C&C27 MKIII Port Stanley, ON C&C36 Merritt Island, FL - Original Message - From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' Cc: Della Barba, Joe Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2016 11:02 Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff I use 30 feet of chain because I got tired of all the cruisers anchoring with all chain and me having to be way off to allow 7:1 scope swing room. Having 30 feet of 5/16 and anchoring in usually 8-15 feet of water works well. I have no windlass now, but I wouldn’t mind one. IMHO much past 35 feet and lack of a windlass will be painful with the correct size chain and anchor. Joe Coquina C&C 35 MK I From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G Street via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2016 10:52 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Frederick G Street Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff Also, anyone who cruises in tropical areas NEEDS chain, to avoid chafe on the occasional chuck of dead coral... Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI On Aug 17, 2016, at 9:18 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List wrote: Chuck, Avoiding chain on anchor rode means you’re giving up one of the most important aspects of the rode: the catenary effect of shock absorbsion. By allowing some of the chain to lie on the ocean (or lake) bottom, the effort that it takes to lift the chain off the bottom before the line goes taut, serves as a shock absorber to wave, wind, or current. Also, using chain on an anchor rode means you can get by with a somewhat shorter scope in a crowded anchorage without worrying that your anchor will break free. Using only rope between your clean and the anchor allows for very little catenary and as such, your cleat and the anchor rope is bearing the entire shock load of the boat all the time. If I had only rope on my anchor line, I would make sure I had a proper anchor rode snubber, rubber or otherwise, to manage those loads. On Half Magic, we use 25’ of 5/16” Galv BBB chain spliced to 200’ of 5/8” NovEight Novabraid 8 plait rope with a 25lb CQR anchor (which is probably a bit light for the size and weight of the boat). We rarely anchor in more than 20’ of water where we sail although we might rethink that if we decide to cruise up in Maine or Nova Scotia. Chuck Gilchrest S/V Half Magic 1983 Landfall 35 Padanaram, MA ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff
I can't offer up anywhere near the experience of others on this list - so I depend on learning from more experienced sailors. This group is part of that, plus I pay for a membership with Attainable Cruising Adventure - https://www.morganscloud.com/ - lots of great info that has been tried and tested in challenging climates (including an extensive discussion on jacklines and tethers) On the topic of catenary effects of chain - they argue that the effects are pretty minimal. This article is offered as evidence of the calculations. Chain still offers some benefits, just not so much in catenary effect. http://www.petersmith.net.nz/boat-anchors/catenary.php Mark There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. - George Santana On 2016-08-17 11:18 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List wrote: Chuck, Avoiding chain on anchor rode means you’re giving up one of the most important aspects of the rode: the catenary effect of shock absorbsion. By allowing some of the chain to lie on the ocean (or lake) bottom, the effort that it takes to lift the chain off the bottom before the line goes taut, serves as a shock absorber to wave, wind, or current. Also, using chain on an anchor rode means you can get by with a somewhat shorter scope in a crowded anchorage without worrying that your anchor will break free. Using only rope between your clean and the anchor allows for very little catenary and as such, your cleat and the anchor rope is bearing the entire shock load of the boat all the time. If I had only rope on my anchor line, I would make sure I had a proper anchor rode snubber, rubber or otherwise, to manage those loads. On Half Magic, we use 25’ of 5/16” Galv BBB chain spliced to 200’ of 5/8” NovEight Novabraid 8 plait rope with a 25lb CQR anchor (which is probably a bit light for the size and weight of the boat). We rarely anchor in more than 20’ of water where we sail although we might rethink that if we decide to cruise up in Maine or Nova Scotia. Chuck Gilchrest S/V Half Magic 1983 Landfall 35 Padanaram, MA ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff
My 35/3 had a fairly light Danforth and 10 feet of chain. I used it only as a lunch hook, and it was pretty easy to haul up by hand. My 44 has a 35 pound anchor (considered light for the boat by many) and 25 feet of 3/8 stainless chain. When I tripped the breaker on the windlass and did not know how to reset it, I needed help hauling up the anchor and chain. Can't live with em, can't live without em! Joel On Wed, Aug 17, 2016 at 11:02 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I use 30 feet of chain because I got tired of all the cruisers anchoring > with all chain and me having to be way off to allow 7:1 scope swing room. > Having 30 feet of 5/16 and anchoring in usually 8-15 feet of water works > well. I have no windlass now, but I wouldn’t mind one. IMHO much past 35 > feet and lack of a windlass will be painful with the correct size chain and > anchor. > > Joe > > Coquina > > C&C 35 MK I > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of > *Frederick > G Street via CnC-List > *Sent:* Wednesday, August 17, 2016 10:52 > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* Frederick G Street > *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff > > > > Also, anyone who cruises in tropical areas *NEEDS* chain, to avoid chafe > on the occasional chuck of dead coral... > > > Fred Street -- Minneapolis > S/V *Oceanis* (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI > > > > On Aug 17, 2016, at 9:18 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > Chuck, > > Avoiding chain on anchor rode means you’re giving up one of the most > important aspects of the rode: the catenary effect of shock absorbsion. > By allowing some of the chain to lie on the ocean (or lake) bottom, the > effort that it takes to lift the chain off the bottom before the line goes > taut, serves as a shock absorber to wave, wind, or current. Also, using > chain on an anchor rode means you can get by with a somewhat shorter scope > in a crowded anchorage without worrying that your anchor will break free. > > Using only rope between your clean and the anchor allows for very little > catenary and as such, your cleat and the anchor rope is bearing the entire > shock load of the boat all the time. If I had only rope on my anchor line, > I would make sure I had a proper anchor rode snubber, rubber or otherwise, > to manage those loads. > > On Half Magic, we use 25’ of 5/16” Galv BBB chain spliced to 200’ of 5/8” > NovEight Novabraid 8 plait rope with a 25lb CQR anchor (which is probably a > bit light for the size and weight of the boat). We rarely anchor in more > than 20’ of water where we sail although we might rethink that if we decide > to cruise up in Maine or Nova Scotia. > > > > Chuck Gilchrest > > S/V Half Magic > > 1983 Landfall 35 > > Padanaram, MA > > > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All > Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff
I use 30 feet of chain because I got tired of all the cruisers anchoring with all chain and me having to be way off to allow 7:1 scope swing room. Having 30 feet of 5/16 and anchoring in usually 8-15 feet of water works well. I have no windlass now, but I wouldn’t mind one. IMHO much past 35 feet and lack of a windlass will be painful with the correct size chain and anchor. Joe Coquina C&C 35 MK I From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G Street via CnC-List Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2016 10:52 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Frederick G Street Subject: Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff Also, anyone who cruises in tropical areas NEEDS chain, to avoid chafe on the occasional chuck of dead coral... Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI On Aug 17, 2016, at 9:18 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Chuck, Avoiding chain on anchor rode means you’re giving up one of the most important aspects of the rode: the catenary effect of shock absorbsion. By allowing some of the chain to lie on the ocean (or lake) bottom, the effort that it takes to lift the chain off the bottom before the line goes taut, serves as a shock absorber to wave, wind, or current. Also, using chain on an anchor rode means you can get by with a somewhat shorter scope in a crowded anchorage without worrying that your anchor will break free. Using only rope between your clean and the anchor allows for very little catenary and as such, your cleat and the anchor rope is bearing the entire shock load of the boat all the time. If I had only rope on my anchor line, I would make sure I had a proper anchor rode snubber, rubber or otherwise, to manage those loads. On Half Magic, we use 25’ of 5/16” Galv BBB chain spliced to 200’ of 5/8” NovEight Novabraid 8 plait rope with a 25lb CQR anchor (which is probably a bit light for the size and weight of the boat). We rarely anchor in more than 20’ of water where we sail although we might rethink that if we decide to cruise up in Maine or Nova Scotia. Chuck Gilchrest S/V Half Magic 1983 Landfall 35 Padanaram, MA ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff
Also, anyone who cruises in tropical areas NEEDS chain, to avoid chafe on the occasional chuck of dead coral... Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI > On Aug 17, 2016, at 9:18 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List > wrote: > > Chuck, > Avoiding chain on anchor rode means you’re giving up one of the most > important aspects of the rode: the catenary effect of shock absorbsion. By > allowing some of the chain to lie on the ocean (or lake) bottom, the effort > that it takes to lift the chain off the bottom before the line goes taut, > serves as a shock absorber to wave, wind, or current. Also, using chain on > an anchor rode means you can get by with a somewhat shorter scope in a > crowded anchorage without worrying that your anchor will break free. > Using only rope between your clean and the anchor allows for very little > catenary and as such, your cleat and the anchor rope is bearing the entire > shock load of the boat all the time. If I had only rope on my anchor line, I > would make sure I had a proper anchor rode snubber, rubber or otherwise, to > manage those loads. > On Half Magic, we use 25’ of 5/16” Galv BBB chain spliced to 200’ of 5/8” > NovEight Novabraid 8 plait rope with a 25lb CQR anchor (which is probably a > bit light for the size and weight of the boat). We rarely anchor in more > than 20’ of water where we sail although we might rethink that if we decide > to cruise up in Maine or Nova Scotia. <> > > Chuck Gilchrest > S/V Half Magic > 1983 Landfall 35 > Padanaram, MA ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff
Chuck, Avoiding chain on anchor rode means you’re giving up one of the most important aspects of the rode: the catenary effect of shock absorbsion. By allowing some of the chain to lie on the ocean (or lake) bottom, the effort that it takes to lift the chain off the bottom before the line goes taut, serves as a shock absorber to wave, wind, or current. Also, using chain on an anchor rode means you can get by with a somewhat shorter scope in a crowded anchorage without worrying that your anchor will break free. Using only rope between your clean and the anchor allows for very little catenary and as such, your cleat and the anchor rope is bearing the entire shock load of the boat all the time. If I had only rope on my anchor line, I would make sure I had a proper anchor rode snubber, rubber or otherwise, to manage those loads. On Half Magic, we use 25’ of 5/16” Galv BBB chain spliced to 200’ of 5/8” NovEight Novabraid 8 plait rope with a 25lb CQR anchor (which is probably a bit light for the size and weight of the boat). We rarely anchor in more than 20’ of water where we sail although we might rethink that if we decide to cruise up in Maine or Nova Scotia. Chuck Gilchrest S/V Half Magic 1983 Landfall 35 Padanaram, MA ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Windlass rebuff
Wow ! What's the weight of all that chain and anchor on the bow? I appreciate your project and applaud you sharing the details. At the risk of drawing out the "flamers", I think windlasses are a little overrated. Avoid chain and you don't need the windlass. Avoid the windlass and you don't need a battery for the motor or the switches or wiring or problems when it all jambs under extreme load. I have heard so many windlass problems from neighbors at my marina, I'm glad I don't have one. I solo a lot so I rely on tried and true methods to break the anchor out. To pull the anchor, start the engine in neutral and then hand the anchor rode in till it is snug, tension it as tight as you can get it, cleat it and pull up in the middle of the line between the bow and the cleat. Usually I can work the line so the anchor breaks free and I pull it right up and onto the roller. Rarely do I need to use the engine to motor forward to break it loose. I'm 62 and don't claim to be stronger than the average bear. This almost always works. The last trick is to tie a rolling hitch on the rode and winch the thing up. I have had my 36 footer for 12 years and never needed to do that. Chuck Resolute 1990 C&C 34R Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md - Original Message - From: "Dreuge via CnC-List" To: "CnClist" Cc: "Dreuge" Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2016 3:01:34 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ Anchor Roller Mount & Windlass Hi Ron, I recently installed a new windlass and upgraded the ground tackle on my LF38. I installed the windlass on the deck such that the chain hole is over the anchor locker whereas the windlass shaft hole is over the v-berth. I just started to writeup the windlass installation on my blog, but as of now it has mostly photos. For equipment, I went with the Maxwell RC8-8 5/16” G4 windlass, 150’ 5/16” G4 HT chain, 150’ 5/8” 8-plait nylon rope, Mantus SS swivel, and 44lb Vulcan anchor. Also I read good thing about using a 4WD winch controllers on a marine windlass, so I picked up both a wired and wireless winch controllers from amazon. The wireless controller works great but does have a slight delay which the wired controller does not. I chose not to go with the usual foot windlass switches. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LS5R0PO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Here’s what I have so far: http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/Windlass - Paul E. 1981 C&C 38 Landfall S/V Johanna Rose Carrabelle, FL http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ On Aug 16, 2016, at 12:58 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2016 12:59:00 -0400 From: Ron Ricci < rvri...@gmail.com > To: < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Stus-List C&C 37+ Anchor Roller Mount & Windlass Message-ID: < 024601d1f7df$7ca71f30$75f55d90$@gmail.com > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Maybe I'm getting old but am considering adding an anchor roller mount and windlass to my boat. I have a 33' Bruce anchor which I may upsize since I'd no longer be the windlass. It seemed pretty tricky to get the anchor and chain in with the head stay, jib tacks and mooring line chocks. Any advice and photos (especially of the bow roller & mooring line chock areas) would be appreciated. Please use link to OneDrive < https://1drv.ms/f/s!AhpB-lul9d5YgmIRm7Ain34SSCFu > to copy/paste photos that you can share or send them to my email address below (without copying the list). Thanks, Ron Ron Ricci S/V Patriot C&C 37+ Bristol, RI ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
