Stus-List Hot Water Heater.

[John McCrea via CnC-List]

Hello. While working on my packing nut I noticed that one of the hot water
leads from the heat exchanger snapped off. The inlet fitting was completely
corroded through. Same with the other exit side. Glad I am still on land!

 

It is a Force 10 and could even be original. Since they are welded on it is
time to replace. I noticed that Force 10 no longer makes them and Kuuma is
now the closest replacement? Looks identical. Anyone have one of these?
Thanks.

 

John McCrea

Talisman

1979 36-1

Mystic, CT

Re: Stus-List Hot Water Heater

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

https://youtu.be/rGWmONHipVo

On Wed, May 27, 2020, 18:04 Robert Abbott via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> On 5/27/2020 11:41 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
>
> As I have said before, replace the relief valve.  It opened occasionally
>> on my Raritan
>>
>>
>
> Joel, question?   Did the relief valve open occasionally only when the
>> engine was running with engine coolant heating the water, or when you were
>> heating water via shore power or just any time at random regardless of
>> whether the water was being heated or the pressure pump on?
>>
>>
>My leak will occur over the time I leave the boat all shut down.
>
> Rob Abbott
>>> AZURA
>>> C 32 - #277
>>> Halifax, N.S.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>>
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> --
> Joel
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Hot Water Heater

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

The T (relief) valves are supposed to be tested on a certain frequency.
If you've never heard of water heater rocket launching you should look it
up.  It happens as a result of the T getting clogged or stuck shut and
then the thermostat getting stuck on.

https://youtu.be/rGWmONHipVo

If they leak after test it is usually because some calcium deposits got
stuck in the valve seat.  You can assist it slightly by pushing down on the
brass stem that extends from the center of the valve.  This is especially
likely if you have never flush the deposits out of the tank.  As they age,
the spring can simply get weak.

I cycle mine every spring to vent the system and every fall when I'm
flushing and draining.  As far as I know it doesn't leak and I've been
doing it since it was replaced 7 years ago.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Wed, May 27, 2020, 18:04 Robert Abbott via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> On 5/27/2020 11:41 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
>
> As I have said before, replace the relief valve.  It opened occasionally
>> on my Raritan
>>
>>
>
> Joel, question?   Did the relief valve open occasionally only when the
>> engine was running with engine coolant heating the water, or when you were
>> heating water via shore power or just any time at random regardless of
>> whether the water was being heated or the pressure pump on?
>>
>>
>My leak will occur over the time I leave the boat all shut down.
>
> Rob Abbott
>>> AZURA
>>> C 32 - #277
>>> Halifax, N.S.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>>
>>
>> --
>> Joel
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> --
> Joel
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Hot Water Heater

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Any children's marker should do (most are supposed to be water soluble)

Marek


 Original message 
From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
Date: 2020-05-27 17:58 (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Abbott 
Subject: Stus-List Hot Water Heater

Marek,

In 15 years,I have never opened the relief valve and thanks for the water 
marker tip.now I have to source it.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax N.S.

On 5/27/2020 5:24 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:
The pressure relief valves have a bad habit of leaking if they are opened up. 
They seem not to want to seal completely again.

Marek

From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Robert Abbott via CnC-List
Sent: 27 May, 2020 13:23
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Robert Abbott <mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot Water Heater

Joel,

There is a hose on my relief valve that directs any water from it to the 
bilge.I will place a container under the hose to see if catches any water.

Thanks for the tipwill let you know what happens.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32- #277
Halifax, N.S.



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Stus-List Hot Water Heater

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Neil,

Video on replacing the HW Tank.and this guy had to take out the teak trim 
around the locker...FYI.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6vwlm4PMri4


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32-#277
Halifax, N.S.



On 5/26/2020 2:11 PM, neil.eric.ander...@gmail.com wrote:


Rob,

Boy is this familiar.  I am in the same boat (so to speak).  The 
lazarette doesn’t maintain the same size throughout its length, it 
gets narrower the farther aft you go.  I bought a 6 gallon from West 
Marine in the fal and am in the process of installation now.  The wood 
trim piece (attached be screws from underneath has to be remove and a 
little spreading force may ben needed to make it fit (1/4 of an inch 
(6-7 mm) or so ). The west Marin heater measures 13.5 inches square 
and the opening is “just” short of 13.5 inches at the most aft portion.


I’m going to give it a try this week and will let you know if I can 
make it happen.


Neil Andersen

S/V FoxFire

1982 C 32

Rock Hall, MD 21661


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Robert 
Abbott via CnC-List

Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2020 9:36 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Abbott 
Subject: Stus-List Hot Water Heater

My hot water heater needs replacingthe existing one is round, 14 
inches in diameter.it should just, I mean just, come out of the 
locker without dismantling it so the new one can be no bigger.


Can anyone with experience with hot water heaters recommend a 
replacement, specific model number?


Rob Abbott

AZURA

C 32 - #277

Halifax, N.S.

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Stus-List Hot Water Heater

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

On 5/27/2020 11:41 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:



As I have said before, replace the relief valve.  It opened
occasionally on my Raritan





Joel, question?   Did the relief valve open occasionally only
when the engine was running with engine coolant heating the
water, or when you were heating water via shore power or just any
time at random regardless of whether the water was being heated
or the pressure pump on?




   My leak will occur over the time I leave the boat all shut down.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.



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contributions.  Each and every one is greatly appreciated. 
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contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



-- 
Joel



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the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

--
Joel


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Stus-List Hot Water Heater

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Marek,

In 15 years,I have never opened the relief valve and thanks for the 
water marker tip.now I have to source it.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax N.S.

On 5/27/2020 5:24 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:


The pressure relief valves have a bad habit of leaking if they are 
opened up. They seem not to want to seal completely again.


Marek

*From:*CnC-List *On Behalf Of *Robert Abbott via CnC-List
*Sent:* 27 May, 2020 13:23
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Robert Abbott 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Hot Water Heater

Joel,

There is a hose on my relief valve that directs any water from it to 
the bilge.I will place a container under the hose to see if 
catches any water.


Thanks for the tipwill let you know what happens.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32- #277
Halifax, N.S.


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Re: Stus-List Hot Water Heater

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

The pressure relief valves have a bad habit of leaking if they are opened up. 
They seem not to want to seal completely again.

Marek

From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Robert Abbott via CnC-List
Sent: 27 May, 2020 13:23
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Abbott 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot Water Heater

Joel,

There is a hose on my relief valve that directs any water from it to the 
bilge.I will place a container under the hose to see if catches any water.

Thanks for the tipwill let you know what happens.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32- #277
Halifax, N.S.
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Re: Stus-List Hot Water Heater

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Rob,

You can use _water soluble markers_ to make lines in strategic places. If water 
leaks over them, it will show.

Marek

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Robert Abbott via CnC-List
Sent: 27 May, 2020 09:11
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Abbott 
Subject: Stus-List Hot Water Heater

I was convinced my old Raritan water heater was leaking.after a close 
inspection yesterday with the assistance of a mechanic familiar with these 
issues, we concluded it was not leaking.  The wooden platform it sits on was 
dry, pressure valve outlet dry, valve to empty the tank on the bottom was dry, 
all connections in and out were dry.

The mechanic said to leave the pressure pump onafter the system is 
pressurized it should stay offif it comes back on without running water, 
chances are the system has a leak.    After several hours, it did not come back 
on.

The mechanic did not have time yesterday to trouble shoot the source of the 
leakhe said to inspect every connection which might entail placing 
newspapers or paper towels under each to try to determine where the water ic 
coming from.

It is good news in one respect but frustrating in another.  I'll keep the list 
posted.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.



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Re: Stus-List Hot Water Heater

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

If not, add food coloring to the tank. Easier to find the leak

On Wed, May 27, 2020 at 1:23 PM Robert Abbott via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Joel,
>
> There is a hose on my relief valve that directs any water from it to the
> bilge.I will place a container under the hose to see if catches any
> water.
>
> Thanks for the tipwill let you know what happens.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32- #277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 5/27/2020 11:41 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
>
> As I have said before, replace the relief valve.  It opened occasionally
> on my Raritan
>
> Joel
>
> On Wed, May 27, 2020 at 9:11 AM Robert Abbott via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I was convinced my old Raritan water heater was leaking.after a
>> close inspection yesterday with the assistance of a mechanic familiar
>> with these issues, we concluded it was not leaking.  The wooden platform
>> it sits on was dry, pressure valve outlet dry, valve to empty the tank
>> on the bottom was dry, all connections in and out were dry.
>>
>> The mechanic said to leave the pressure pump onafter the system is
>> pressurized it should stay offif it comes back on without running
>> water, chances are the system has a leak.After several hours, it did
>> not come back on.
>>
>> The mechanic did not have time yesterday to trouble shoot the source of
>> the leakhe said to inspect every connection which might entail
>> placing newspapers or paper towels under each to try to determine where
>> the water ic coming from.
>>
>> It is good news in one respect but frustrating in another.  I'll keep
>> the list posted.
>>
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C 32 - #277
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>
> --
> Joel
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Joel
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Re: Stus-List Hot Water Heater

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Joel,

There is a hose on my relief valve that directs any water from it to the 
bilge.I will place a container under the hose to see if catches any 
water.


Thanks for the tipwill let you know what happens.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32- #277
Halifax, N.S.

On 5/27/2020 11:41 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
As I have said before, replace the relief valve. It opened 
occasionally on my Raritan


Joel

On Wed, May 27, 2020 at 9:11 AM Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I was convinced my old Raritan water heater was leaking.after a
close inspection yesterday with the assistance of a mechanic familiar
with these issues, we concluded it was not leaking.  The wooden
platform
it sits on was dry, pressure valve outlet dry, valve to empty the
tank
on the bottom was dry, all connections in and out were dry.

The mechanic said to leave the pressure pump onafter the
system is
pressurized it should stay offif it comes back on without running
water, chances are the system has a leak.    After several hours,
it did
not come back on.

The mechanic did not have time yesterday to trouble shoot the
source of
the leakhe said to inspect every connection which might entail
placing newspapers or paper towels under each to try to determine
where
the water ic coming from.

It is good news in one respect but frustrating in another. I'll keep
the list posted.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.



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https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



--
Joel


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Re: Stus-List Hot Water Heater

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

As I have said before, replace the relief valve.  It opened occasionally on
my Raritan

Joel

On Wed, May 27, 2020 at 9:11 AM Robert Abbott via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I was convinced my old Raritan water heater was leaking.after a
> close inspection yesterday with the assistance of a mechanic familiar
> with these issues, we concluded it was not leaking.  The wooden platform
> it sits on was dry, pressure valve outlet dry, valve to empty the tank
> on the bottom was dry, all connections in and out were dry.
>
> The mechanic said to leave the pressure pump onafter the system is
> pressurized it should stay offif it comes back on without running
> water, chances are the system has a leak.After several hours, it did
> not come back on.
>
> The mechanic did not have time yesterday to trouble shoot the source of
> the leakhe said to inspect every connection which might entail
> placing newspapers or paper towels under each to try to determine where
> the water ic coming from.
>
> It is good news in one respect but frustrating in another.  I'll keep
> the list posted.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Joel
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Stus-List Hot Water Heater

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

I was convinced my old Raritan water heater was leaking.after a 
close inspection yesterday with the assistance of a mechanic familiar 
with these issues, we concluded it was not leaking.  The wooden platform 
it sits on was dry, pressure valve outlet dry, valve to empty the tank 
on the bottom was dry, all connections in and out were dry.


The mechanic said to leave the pressure pump onafter the system is 
pressurized it should stay offif it comes back on without running 
water, chances are the system has a leak.    After several hours, it did 
not come back on.


The mechanic did not have time yesterday to trouble shoot the source of 
the leakhe said to inspect every connection which might entail 
placing newspapers or paper towels under each to try to determine where 
the water ic coming from.


It is good news in one respect but frustrating in another.  I'll keep 
the list posted.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.



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Re: Stus-List Hot Water Heater

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Y'all keep talking about hot water heaters... I'm trying to figure out why
you bother heating the water if it is already hot?!  Haha  

On Tue, May 26, 2020, 14:00 Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Rob,
>
> My Landfall 35 experienced an OEM water heater leakage/failure last winter
> that dictated cutting the heater in half to remove the unit (12 Gallon
> Raritan) and replacing it with a much smaller Isotherm unit (6 gal) so I
> didn’t need to remove the diesel to install a new heater.  Rob Ball was
> pretty sure they installed both the heater and the diesel prior to dropping
> the deck on the boat when new, although the boat was built in RI and he was
> in NOTL.  Since the Yanmar 3HM is oriented backwards in the boat (with a
> V-drive), access to any belts, pulleys, pumps, etc always meant moving the
> water heater to the side to perform service.  With the smaller heater, I
> can get to one of the water pump impellers now with the heater in place…
> one small concession to a $800+ investment in hot water…
>
> Chuck Gilchrest
>
> S/V Half Magic
>
> 1983 35 Landfall
>
> Padanaram, MA
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Doug
> Mountjoy via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Tuesday, May 26, 2020 11:44 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Doug Mountjoy 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Hot Water Heater
>
>
>
> Rob,
>
> I have had 2 of these water heaters in 2 boats. Love them for the low
> power draw on shore power, Being a live aboard on 30 amps this is important
> in the winter.
>
> https://www.fisheriessupply.com/isotherm-spa-water-heaters
>
> On my LF38 I had the 6.5 gal and on my LF39 I have the 8 gal.
>
>
>
> On Tue, May 26, 2020 at 6:36 AM Robert Abbott via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> My hot water heater needs replacingthe existing one is round, 14
> inches in diameter.it should just, I mean just, come out of the
> locker without dismantling it so the new one can be no bigger.
>
> Can anyone with experience with hot water heaters recommend a
> replacement, specific model number?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> --
>
> Douglas Mountjoy
> 253-208-1412
>
> Port Orchard YC, WA
>
> Rebecca Leah
>
> C LandFall 39
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Hot Water Heater

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Rob,

My Landfall 35 experienced an OEM water heater leakage/failure last winter that 
dictated cutting the heater in half to remove the unit (12 Gallon Raritan) and 
replacing it with a much smaller Isotherm unit (6 gal) so I didn’t need to 
remove the diesel to install a new heater.  Rob Ball was pretty sure they 
installed both the heater and the diesel prior to dropping the deck on the boat 
when new, although the boat was built in RI and he was in NOTL.  Since the 
Yanmar 3HM is oriented backwards in the boat (with a V-drive), access to any 
belts, pulleys, pumps, etc always meant moving the water heater to the side to 
perform service.  With the smaller heater, I can get to one of the water pump 
impellers now with the heater in place… one small concession to a $800+ 
investment in hot water…

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Doug Mountjoy via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2020 11:44 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Doug Mountjoy 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot Water Heater

 

Rob,

I have had 2 of these water heaters in 2 boats. Love them for the low power 
draw on shore power, Being a live aboard on 30 amps this is important in the 
winter. 

https://www.fisheriessupply.com/isotherm-spa-water-heaters

On my LF38 I had the 6.5 gal and on my LF39 I have the 8 gal. 

 

On Tue, May 26, 2020 at 6:36 AM Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

My hot water heater needs replacingthe existing one is round, 14 
inches in diameter.it should just, I mean just, come out of the 
locker without dismantling it so the new one can be no bigger.

Can anyone with experience with hot water heaters recommend a 
replacement, specific model number?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.


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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



-- 

Douglas Mountjoy
253-208-1412

Port Orchard YC, WA

Rebecca Leah

C LandFall 39

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Re: Stus-List Hot Water Heater

[Neil Andersen via CnC-List]

Rob,

 

Boy is this familiar.  I am in the same boat (so to speak).  The lazarette
doesn't maintain the same size throughout its length, it gets narrower the
farther aft you go.  I bought a 6 gallon from West Marine in the fal and am
in the process of installation now.  The wood trim piece (attached be screws
from underneath has to be remove and a little spreading force may ben needed
to make it fit (1/4 of an inch (6-7 mm) or so ).  The west Marin heater
measures 13.5 inches square and the opening is "just" short of 13.5 inches
at the most aft portion.

 

I'm going to give it a try this week and will let you know if I can make it
happen.

 

Neil Andersen

S/V FoxFire

1982 C 32

Rock Hall, MD 21661




 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Robert Abbott
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2020 9:36 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Abbott 
Subject: Stus-List Hot Water Heater

 

My hot water heater needs replacingthe existing one is round, 14 inches
in diameter.it should just, I mean just, come out of the locker without
dismantling it so the new one can be no bigger.

 

Can anyone with experience with hot water heaters recommend a replacement,
specific model number?

 

Rob Abbott

AZURA

C 32 - #277

Halifax, N.S.

 

 

___

 

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --<https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

 

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Re: Stus-List Hot Water Heater

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

It might be useful to remove the water heater and dissect it a little to
determine where the leak is coming from.  There are at least 6 threaded
penetrations based on your description.  One of them may just need
tightened...or what's connected to the penetration may need tightened.  It
could be the T valve which is pretty common to leak and easy to replace.

If you get in there and find that it is a through-wall leak on the actual
tank then I would say the whole thing is shot.  Any attempts to make
repairs are most likely to be short lived.

Many people don't realize that there is also usually an anode which should
be inspected and periodically replaced.

The Raritan unit I have is 6 gallons and costs $1000+ to replace so a small
amount of effort on my part was pretty easy to justify.

Josh





On Tue, May 26, 2020, 11:40 Robert Abbott via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Josh:
>
> Mine looks very much like yoursit is a 5 gallon, vertical tank, heated
> both via engine and electrical..14" in diameter (didn't measure the
> height but estimate approx. 20")I assume vertical connectionscold
> water in, hot water out connection, engine coolant in and out, pressure
> relief valve, a drain valve on the bottom, and an electrical
> connections. a similar one would be ideal.
>
> Launched a week ago and every day I notice approx a quart of fresh water
> in my bilge.the only source has to be hot water tank leaking as my
> bilge is normally dry and it is fresh water not salt water.  I have had the
> boat now 15 years and this tank came with it so  have no idea how old it is
> but is it at least 15 years old.  My 40 gallon water tank is not leaking.
>
> I won't be rebuilding myself.  Is there a shop (radiator ?) that might do
> this work?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32- 277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 5/26/2020 10:45 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Can you describe a little better what you are looking for in a new water
> heater?  Size, shape, engine heated, vertical or horizontal connections?
>
> May I ask why yours needs replaced?  I rebuilt mine for a fraction of the
> price of a new one...
>
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1ydEpoMU1MWmx6Qms
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
>
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C 32 - #277
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Hot Water Heater

[Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List]

Rob,
I have had 2 of these water heaters in 2 boats. Love them for the low power
draw on shore power, Being a live aboard on 30 amps this is important in
the winter.
https://www.fisheriessupply.com/isotherm-spa-water-heaters
On my LF38 I had the 6.5 gal and on my LF39 I have the 8 gal.

On Tue, May 26, 2020 at 6:36 AM Robert Abbott via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My hot water heater needs replacingthe existing one is round, 14
> inches in diameter.it should just, I mean just, come out of the
> locker without dismantling it so the new one can be no bigger.
>
> Can anyone with experience with hot water heaters recommend a
> replacement, specific model number?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

-- 
Douglas Mountjoy
253-208-1412
Port Orchard YC, WA
Rebecca Leah
C LandFall 39
___

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Stus-List Hot Water Heater

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

Josh:

Mine looks very much like yoursit is a 5 gallon, vertical tank, 
heated both via engine and electrical..14" in diameter (didn't 
measure the height but estimate approx. 20")I assume vertical 
connectionscold water in, hot water out connection, engine coolant 
in and out, pressure relief valve, a drain valve on the bottom, and an 
electrical connections. a similar one would be ideal.


Launched a week ago and every day I notice approx a quart of fresh water 
in my bilge.the only source has to be hot water tank leaking as my 
bilge is normally dry and it is fresh water not salt water.  I have had 
the boat now 15 years and this tank came with it so  have no idea how 
old it is but is it at least 15 years old.  My 40 gallon water tank is 
not leaking.


I won't be rebuilding myself.  Is there a shop (radiator ?) that might 
do this work?


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32- 277
Halifax, N.S.

On 5/26/2020 10:45 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
Can you describe a little better what you are looking for in a new 
water heater?  Size, shape, engine heated, vertical or horizontal 
connections?


May I ask why yours needs replaced?  I rebuilt mine for a fraction of 
the price of a new one...


https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1ydEpoMU1MWmx6Qms

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD




Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.


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Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support
the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



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Re: Stus-List Hot Water Heater

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Rob,

Try IsoTemp SPA heater 
(https://www.indelwebastomarine.com/us/products/isotemp-water-heaters/spa/)

Binnacle carries them (e.g. 
https://ca.binnacle.com/p12176/Isotherm-Isotemp-SPA-Water-Heater-Stainless-Tank-20L-(5.3-USG)/product_info.html).

If you look at the Webasto web site, they have the dimensions (including the 
detailed dimensional drawings).

I have installed the 15 l model and I can recommend it

Marek

1994 C270 "Legato"
Ottawa, ON



-Original Message-
From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Robert Abbott via CnC-List
Sent: 26 May, 2020 09:36
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Robert Abbott 
Subject: Stus-List Hot Water Heater

My hot water heater needs replacingthe existing one is round, 14 inches in 
diameter.it should just, I mean just, come out of the locker without 
dismantling it so the new one can be no bigger.

Can anyone with experience with hot water heaters recommend a replacement, 
specific model number?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.


___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Hot Water Heater

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Can you describe a little better what you are looking for in a new water
heater?  Size, shape, engine heated, vertical or horizontal connections?

May I ask why yours needs replaced?  I rebuilt mine for a fraction of the
price of a new one...

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1ydEpoMU1MWmx6Qms

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Tue, May 26, 2020, 09:36 Robert Abbott via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My hot water heater needs replacingthe existing one is round, 14
> inches in diameter.it should just, I mean just, come out of the
> locker without dismantling it so the new one can be no bigger.
>
> Can anyone with experience with hot water heaters recommend a
> replacement, specific model number?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Hot Water Heater

[Robert Abbott via CnC-List]

My hot water heater needs replacingthe existing one is round, 14 
inches in diameter.it should just, I mean just, come out of the 
locker without dismantling it so the new one can be no bigger.


Can anyone with experience with hot water heaters recommend a 
replacement, specific model number?


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C 32 - #277
Halifax, N.S.


___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Hot water heater bypass

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I'm putting in a 10 gallon tank, so that's a lot of pink stuff (and $$)
saved!

Amazon had the Camco for $15.

Thanks again!

Joel

On Mon, Mar 27, 2017 at 7:09 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks, Russ.  I've wondered about that for years!
>
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 8:38 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> I love this topic.
>>
>> Back up a little. If you already have hot water... why do you need to
>> heat it? :)
>>
>> ' couldn't help that, grinnin' while I hit "send"
>>
>> Cheers, Russ
>>
>> At 02:00 PM 26/03/2017, you wrote:
>>
>>> All
>>>
>>> I'm replacing my hot water heater heater and want to be able to bypass
>>> the heater when winterizing.Â
>>> I was thinking of putting shut offs on the inlet and outlet with a
>>> bypass below the shut offs with its own valve. In normal operation I would
>>> close the bypass valve. Is there a better way?
>>>
>>> JoelÂ
>>> --
>>> Joel
>>> 301 541 8551
>>> ___
>>>
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Hot water heater bypass

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Thanks, Russ.  I've wondered about that for years!

Gary
S/V Kaylarah

~~~_/)~~


On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 8:38 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> I love this topic.
>
> Back up a little. If you already have hot water... why do you need to heat
> it? :)
>
> ' couldn't help that, grinnin' while I hit "send"
>
> Cheers, Russ
>
> At 02:00 PM 26/03/2017, you wrote:
>
>> All
>>
>> I'm replacing my hot water heater heater and want to be able to bypass
>> the heater when winterizing.Â
>> I was thinking of putting shut offs on the inlet and outlet with a bypass
>> below the shut offs with its own valve. In normal operation I would close
>> the bypass valve. Is there a better way?
>>
>> JoelÂ
>> --
>> Joel
>> 301 541 8551
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List Hot water heater bypass

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

One more point. Kind of obvious, but I will mention it. When you winterise, 
make sure that you either drain all water out of the tank or you blow it out. I 
can’t drain it  into the bilge (the way the bilge is designed on my boat is 
stupid), so I have to blow it.

Btw. It saves about 5-6 gal of AF in the fall and incredible amount of grief 
(to flush it out) in the spring.

Marek

Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Windows 10

From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: March 26, 2017 18:20
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Joel Aronson<mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater bypass

Thanks guys!  So glad I asked!

Joel
On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 6:17 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Yep, my bad, I thought I had found the 2 valve system.  Either will work but 
I'm with Marek, the 2 valve is probably better.

The system I built also included a thermal regulating valve (red knob).  I can 
crank the thermostat WAY up while at dock (and the 160 - 180° water from the 
engine while motoring) and it gets regulated down to whatever safe level I set. 
 It lets me get 3 showers from a single 6 gallon tank of hot water.

Josh


On Mar 26, 2017 6:06 PM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

There is a better off the shelf system with two valves (on both ends) - Google 
“Camco 35953” (or 35963; they differ only in the length of the bypass hose). 
Works like a charm.



Marek

1994 C270 “Legato”

Ottawa, ON



From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On 
Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2017 17:50

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com<mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater bypass



Off the shelf will work. Great job soldering!

Joel



On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 5:39 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

They make a kit for this.  It uses two 3-way valves.

http://m.campingworld.com/shopping/item/quick-turn-by-pass-kit/15717



I built a system for mine before I realized that there was an off the shelf 
solution.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1ydEpoMU1MWmx6Qms



Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD



On Mar 26, 2017 5:01 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

All



I'm replacing my hot water heater heater and want to be able to bypass the 
heater when winterizing.

I was thinking of putting shut offs on the inlet and outlet with a bypass below 
the shut offs with its own valve. In normal operation I would close the bypass 
valve. Is there a better way?



Joel

--

Joel
301 541 8551<tel:(301)%20541-8551>

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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--

Joel
301 541 8551<tel:(301)%20541-8551>

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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___

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--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Hot water heater bypass

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

I love this topic.

Back up a little. If you already have hot 
water... why do you need to heat it? :)


' couldn't help that, grinnin' while I hit "send"

Cheers, Russ

At 02:00 PM 26/03/2017, you wrote:

All

I'm replacing my hot water heater heater and 
want to be able to bypass the heater when winterizing.Â
I was thinking of putting shut offs on the inlet 
and outlet with a bypass below the shut offs 
with its own valve. In normal operation I would 
close the bypass valve. Is there a better way?


JoelÂ
--
Joel
301 541 8551
___

This list is supported by the generous donations 
of our members. If you wish to make a 
contribution to offset our costs, please go 
to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Hot water heater bypass

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

I could see where a kit like that could save you a lot of antifreeze.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2017 17:38
To: C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater bypass

 

They make a kit for this.  It uses two 3-way valves.

http://m.campingworld.com/shopping/item/quick-turn-by-pass-kit/15717

 

I built a system for mine before I realized that there was an off the shelf 
solution.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1ydEpoMU1MWmx6Qms

 

Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Hot water heater bypass

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Got it.

Dennis

On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 5:29 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm going to use it on the fresh water side.
>
> Joel
> On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 6:28 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Has anyone actually tried that RV bypass kit?  How much water does it
>> pass?  Are the ports big enough?  I know most systems use only a portion of
>> the coolant but if you're running your entire engine coolant flow through
>> it, it may not pass enough coolant to cool your engine.
>>
>> For only a few $$ more you can make your own that will be properly sized
>> and use marine grade parts.  Just give it some thought.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 5:16 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551 <(301)%20541-8551>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Hot water heater bypass

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I'm going to use it on the fresh water side.

Joel
On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 6:28 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Has anyone actually tried that RV bypass kit?  How much water does it
> pass?  Are the ports big enough?  I know most systems use only a portion of
> the coolant but if you're running your entire engine coolant flow through
> it, it may not pass enough coolant to cool your engine.
>
> For only a few $$ more you can make your own that will be properly sized
> and use marine grade parts.  Just give it some thought.
>
> Dennis C.
>
>
> On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 5:16 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Hot water heater bypass

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Has anyone actually tried that RV bypass kit?  How much water does it
pass?  Are the ports big enough?  I know most systems use only a portion of
the coolant but if you're running your entire engine coolant flow through
it, it may not pass enough coolant to cool your engine.

For only a few $$ more you can make your own that will be properly sized
and use marine grade parts.  Just give it some thought.

Dennis C.

On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 5:16 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>
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Re: Stus-List Hot water heater bypass

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Thanks guys!  So glad I asked!

Joel
On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 6:17 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Yep, my bad, I thought I had found the 2 valve system.  Either will work
> but I'm with Marek, the 2 valve is probably better.
>
> The system I built also included a thermal regulating valve (red knob).  I
> can crank the thermostat WAY up while at dock (and the 160 - 180° water
> from the engine while motoring) and it gets regulated down to whatever safe
> level I set.  It lets me get 3 showers from a single 6 gallon tank of hot
> water.
>
> Josh
>
>
> On Mar 26, 2017 6:06 PM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> There is a better off the shelf system with two valves (on both ends) -
> Google “Camco 35953” (or 35963; they differ only in the length of the
> bypass hose). Works like a charm.
>
>
>
> Marek
>
> 1994 C270 “Legato”
>
> Ottawa, ON
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Joel
> Aronson via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Sunday, March 26, 2017 17:50
>
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Hot water heater bypass
>
>
>
> Off the shelf will work. Great job soldering!
>
> Joel
>
>
>
> On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 5:39 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> They make a kit for this.  It uses two 3-way valves.
>
> http://m.campingworld.com/shopping/item/quick-turn-by-pass-kit/15717
>
>
>
> I built a system for mine before I realized that there was an off the
> shelf solution.
>
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1ydEpoMU1MWmx6Qms
>
>
>
> Josh Muckley
>
> S/V Sea Hawk
>
> 1989 C 37+
>
> Solomons, MD
>
>
>
> On Mar 26, 2017 5:01 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> All
>
>
>
> I'm replacing my hot water heater heater and want to be able to bypass the
> heater when winterizing.
>
> I was thinking of putting shut offs on the inlet and outlet with a bypass
> below the shut offs with its own valve. In normal operation I would close
> the bypass valve. Is there a better way?
>
>
>
> Joel
>
> --
>
> Joel
> 301 541 8551 <(301)%20541-8551>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> --
>
> Joel
> 301 541 8551 <(301)%20541-8551>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Hot water heater bypass

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Yep, my bad, I thought I had found the 2 valve system.  Either will work
but I'm with Marek, the 2 valve is probably better.

The system I built also included a thermal regulating valve (red knob).  I
can crank the thermostat WAY up while at dock (and the 160 - 180° water
from the engine while motoring) and it gets regulated down to whatever safe
level I set.  It lets me get 3 showers from a single 6 gallon tank of hot
water.

Josh

On Mar 26, 2017 6:06 PM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

There is a better off the shelf system with two valves (on both ends) -
Google “Camco 35953” (or 35963; they differ only in the length of the
bypass hose). Works like a charm.



Marek

1994 C270 “Legato”

Ottawa, ON



*From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Joel
Aronson via CnC-List
*Sent:* Sunday, March 26, 2017 17:50

*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com>
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Hot water heater bypass



Off the shelf will work. Great job soldering!

Joel



On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 5:39 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

They make a kit for this.  It uses two 3-way valves.

http://m.campingworld.com/shopping/item/quick-turn-by-pass-kit/15717



I built a system for mine before I realized that there was an off the shelf
solution.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1ydEpoMU1MWmx6Qms



Josh Muckley

S/V Sea Hawk

1989 C 37+

Solomons, MD



On Mar 26, 2017 5:01 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

All



I'm replacing my hot water heater heater and want to be able to bypass the
heater when winterizing.

I was thinking of putting shut offs on the inlet and outlet with a bypass
below the shut offs with its own valve. In normal operation I would close
the bypass valve. Is there a better way?



Joel

-- 

Joel
301 541 8551 <(301)%20541-8551>


___

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___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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-- 

Joel
301 541 8551 <(301)%20541-8551>

___

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___

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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Hot water heater bypass

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

There is a better off the shelf system with two valves (on both ends) - Google 
“Camco 35953” (or 35963; they differ only in the length of the bypass hose). 
Works like a charm.

Marek
1994 C270 “Legato”
Ottawa, ON

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, March 26, 2017 17:50
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater bypass

Off the shelf will work. Great job soldering!
Joel

On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 5:39 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
They make a kit for this.  It uses two 3-way valves.
http://m.campingworld.com/shopping/item/quick-turn-by-pass-kit/15717

I built a system for mine before I realized that there was an off the shelf 
solution.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1ydEpoMU1MWmx6Qms

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mar 26, 2017 5:01 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
All

I'm replacing my hot water heater heater and want to be able to bypass the 
heater when winterizing.
I was thinking of putting shut offs on the inlet and outlet with a bypass below 
the shut offs with its own valve. In normal operation I would close the bypass 
valve. Is there a better way?

Joel
--
Joel
301 541 8551<tel:(301)%20541-8551>

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
--
Joel
301 541 8551
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Hot water heater bypass

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Off the shelf will work. Great job soldering!
Joel

On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 5:39 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> They make a kit for this.  It uses two 3-way valves.
> http://m.campingworld.com/shopping/item/quick-turn-by-pass-kit/15717
>
> I built a system for mine before I realized that there was an off the
> shelf solution.
> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1ydEpoMU1MWmx6Qms
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Mar 26, 2017 5:01 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> All
>
> I'm replacing my hot water heater heater and want to be able to bypass the
> heater when winterizing.
> I was thinking of putting shut offs on the inlet and outlet with a bypass
> below the shut offs with its own valve. In normal operation I would close
> the bypass valve. Is there a better way?
>
> Joel
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551 <(301)%20541-8551>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Hot water heater bypass

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

They make a kit for this.  It uses two 3-way valves.
http://m.campingworld.com/shopping/item/quick-turn-by-pass-kit/15717

I built a system for mine before I realized that there was an off the shelf
solution.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1ydEpoMU1MWmx6Qms

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mar 26, 2017 5:01 PM, "Joel Aronson via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> All
>
> I'm replacing my hot water heater heater and want to be able to bypass the
> heater when winterizing.
> I was thinking of putting shut offs on the inlet and outlet with a bypass
> below the shut offs with its own valve. In normal operation I would close
> the bypass valve. Is there a better way?
>
> Joel
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551 <(301)%20541-8551>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Hot water heater bypass

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Couple of these?

https://www.amazon.com/Industrial-Grade-1PYZ9-Three-Valve/dp/B001NPGIZC

Dennis C.

On Sun, Mar 26, 2017 at 4:00 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> All
>
> I'm replacing my hot water heater heater and want to be able to bypass the
> heater when winterizing.
> I was thinking of putting shut offs on the inlet and outlet with a bypass
> below the shut offs with its own valve. In normal operation I would close
> the bypass valve. Is there a better way?
>
> Joel
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551 <(301)%20541-8551>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Hot water heater bypass

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

That is how I would do it. I did something similar when I installed my day tank 
for the furnace.  


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 
 Original message From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 3/26/17  14:00  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com> Subject: 
Stus-List Hot water heater bypass 
All
I'm replacing my hot water heater heater and want to be able to bypass the 
heater when winterizing. I was thinking of putting shut offs on the inlet and 
outlet with a bypass below the shut offs with its own valve. In normal 
operation I would close the bypass valve. Is there a better way?
Joel -- 
Joel 
301 541 8551
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List Hot water heater bypass

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

All

I'm replacing my hot water heater heater and want to be able to bypass the
heater when winterizing.
I was thinking of putting shut offs on the inlet and outlet with a bypass
below the shut offs with its own valve. In normal operation I would close
the bypass valve. Is there a better way?

Joel
-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List hot water heater

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Hi Mike!  Welcome to the list.  My first sail boat was an o'day 22 as well and 
the I moved up to a c designed Viking 33.

Ed is right!  You're going to love the c 34!  The power in the sails is 
probably the first that will impress you!  Congratulations on your new boat!

As for the hot water, I know a guy that only got hot water from a heat 
exchanger (just like the fresh water cooling one)  it saved him a ton of space 
but the engine needed to be warm to get warm water.  It's sort of an 
alternative to the hot water tank system and you could always add a tank later 
on.

Danny
MassachusettsOn Dec 22, 2015 10:54 PM, Edward Levert via CnC-List 
 wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> Welcome to the list. You will love the C 34 better under sail.
>
> The hot water heater on my 34 is at the forward end of the cockpit locker to 
> the right of the engine just as you suggest. I am guessing it was original 
> equipment. Cannot begin to help on how to plumb to the head/shower.
>
> Ed
> Briarpatch C 34 1981
> New Orleans, La.
>
> On Tuesday, December 22, 2015, Headgorilla via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>>
>> Mike here...
>>  
>> Just bought a 1978 34' C, she is Red and is quite a rig...previous owner 
>> was a casual club racer and took exceptional care of the boat.
>>  
>> you will have to excuse my ignorance (on sailing) since I am moving up from 
>> a 22' OdayMH..
>>  
>> I have been following the discussions that you guys are having and it is all 
>> very, very educationaland since I bought the boat on the day it was 
>> hauled for the winter (Had to inspect her first) I haven't been able to mess 
>> around with the sailing parts yet..just for FYI since you guys have been 
>> discussing it.this 34' has 10 winches and everything leads back to the 8 
>> around the cockpit (4 on cabin top and 4 on cockpit combing), the two by the 
>> mast are set for the babystay track and one for the spinnaker halyard
>>  
>> My question..the Admiral needs hot water for her shower..looks as if 
>> the best and only place for it is on the starboard side of the engine 
>> (atomic4 rebuilt 2010 130hrs)...with access to the fresh water cooling 
>> system.gonna be some piping to do since the water tank and pump are 
>> under the port side cabin bunk and the head is on the starboard...
>>  
>> Any other ideas? or is that where I should put it?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>  
>> Mike
>> 1978 34' Skywalker
>> Southold, NY
>>  
>>  
>>  
___

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Re: Stus-List hot water heater

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I hear ya!  I upgraded again in October and I'm in the save situation, waiting 
for spring...

Danny
MassachusettsOn Dec 23, 2015 8:12 AM, Headgorilla via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks Dan!
>  
> The O'day is wrapped up and put away for long storage, I redid the interior 
> completely last winter including all new bulkheads, teak dinette, electric, 
> watermay sell it eventually or give it to one of my kids...
>  
> I appreciate the input, and I can hardly wait to get the 34 back in the 
> water.what a bummer having to wait all winter.
>  
> mike
>  
>  
> -Original Message-
> From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: djhaughey <djhaug...@juno.com>
> Sent: Wed, Dec 23, 2015 6:36 am
> Subject: Re: Stus-List hot water heater
>
> Hi Mike! Welcome to the list. My first sail boat was an o'day 22 as well and 
> the I moved up to a c designed Viking 33. Ed is right! You're going to love 
> the c 34! The power in the sails is probably the first that will impress 
> you! Congratulations on your new boat! As for the hot water, I know a guy 
> that only got hot water from a heat exchanger (just like the fresh water 
> cooling one) it saved him a ton of space but the engine needed to be warm to 
> get warm water. It's sort of an alternative to the hot water tank system and 
> you could always add a tank later on. Danny MassachusettsOn Dec 22, 2015 
> 10:54 PM, Edward Levert via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Mike, 
> > > Welcome to the list. You will love the C 34 better under sail. > > The 
> hot water heater on my 34 is at the forward end of the cockpit locker to the 
> right of the engine just as you suggest. I am guessing it was original 
> equipment. Cannot begin to help on how to plumb to the head/shower. > > Ed > 
> Briarpatch C 34 1981 > New Orleans, La. > > On Tuesday, December 22, 2015, 
> Headgorilla via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> Mike here... >> 
>   >> Just bought a 1978 34' C, she is Red and is quite a rig...previous 
> owner was a casual club racer and took exceptional care of the boat. >>   >> 
> you will have to excuse my ignorance (on sailing) since I am moving up from a 
> 22' OdayMH.. >>   >> I have been following the discussions that you guys 
> are having and it is all very, very educationaland since I bought the 
> boat on the day it was hauled for the winter (Had to inspect her first) I 
> haven't been able to mess around with the sailing parts yet..just for FYI 
> since you guys have been discussing it.this 34' has 10 winches and 
> everything leads back to the 8 around the cockpit (4 on cabin top and 4 on 
> cockpit combing), the two by the mast are set for the babystay track and one 
> for the spinnaker halyard >>   >> My question..the Admiral needs hot 
> water for her shower..looks as if the best and only place for it is on 
> the starboard side of the engine (atomic4 rebuilt 2010 130hrs)...with access 
> to the fresh water cooling system.gonna be some piping to do since the 
> water tank and pump are under the port side cabin bunk and the head is on the 
> starboard... >>   >> Any other ideas? or is that where I should put it? 
> >> >> Thanks, >>   >> Mike >> 1978 34' Skywalker >> Southold, NY >>   >>   >> 
>   ___ Email address: 
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Re: Stus-List hot water heater

[Headgorilla via CnC-List]

Thanks Dan!
 
The O'day is wrapped up and put away for long storage, I redid the interior 
completely last winter including all new bulkheads, teak dinette, electric, 
watermay sell it eventually or give it to one of my kids...
 
I appreciate the input, and I can hardly wait to get the 34 back in the 
water.what a bummer having to wait all winter.
 
mike
 
 
-Original Message-
From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: djhaughey <djhaug...@juno.com>
Sent: Wed, Dec 23, 2015 6:36 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List hot water heater

Hi Mike!  Welcome to the list.  My first sail boat was an o'day 22 as well and 
the I moved up to a c designed Viking 33.Ed is right!  You're going to love 
the c 34!  The power in the sails is probably the first that will impress 
you! Congratulations on your new boat!As for the hot water, I know a guy that 
only got hot water from a heat exchanger (just like the fresh water cooling 
one)  it saved him a ton of space but the engine needed to be warm to get warm 
water.  It's sort of an alternative to the hot water tank system and you could 
always add a tank later on.DannyMassachusettsOn Dec 22, 2015 10:54 PM, Edward 
Levert via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:>> Mike,>> Welcome to the 
list. You will love the C 34 better under sail.>> The hot water heater on my 
34 is at the forward end of the cockpit locker to the right of the engine just 
as you suggest. I am guessing it was original equipment. Cannot begin to help 
on how to plumb to the head/shower.>> Ed> Briarpatch C 34 1981> New Orleans, 
La.>> On Tuesday, December 22, 2015, Headgorilla via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:>>>> Mike here...>>  >> Just bought a 1978 34' 
C, she is Red and is quite a rig...previous owner was a casual club racer and 
took exceptional care of the boat.>>  >> you will have to excuse my ignorance 
(on sailing) since I am moving up from a 22' OdayMH..>>  >> I have been 
following the discussions that you guys are having and it is all very, very 
educationaland since I bought the boat on the day it was hauled for the 
winter (Had to inspect her first) I haven't been able to mess around with the 
sailing parts yet..just for FYI since you guys have been discussing 
it.this 34' has 10 winches and everything leads back to the 8 around the 
cockpit (4 on cabin top and 4 on cockpit combing), the two by the mast are set 
for the babystay track and one for the spinnaker halyard>>  >> My 
question..the Admiral needs hot water for her shower..looks as if the 
best and only place for it is on the starboard side of the engine (atomic4 
rebuilt 2010 130hrs)...with access to the fresh water cooling system.gonna 
be some piping to do since the water tank and pump are under the port side 
cabin bunk and the head is on the starboard...>>  >> Any other ideas? or is 
that where I should put it?>>>> Thanks,>>  >> Mike>> 1978 34' Skywalker>> 
Southold, NY>>  >>  >>  ___Email 
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Re: Stus-List hot water heater

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Mike,

 

Different boat etc., but…

 

You want to have the heater as close to the engine as possible. I assume that 
the heater will be heated with the engine coolant (and possibly with 
shorepower). The difficult plumbing is from the engine to the water heater and 
back. And you want to limit the amount of extra coolant that you need (i.e. the 
length of the hoses).

 

Plumbing to the head is usually much easier, because you just run a flexible 
pipe (PEX?) and that can go just about anywhere.

 

Also to consider is how you are going to deal with the water coming out of the 
shower (sump, pump, drain to the bilge etc.).

 

Good luck 

 

Marek

 

1994 C270 “Legato”

Ottawa

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edward 
Levert via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 2015 22:54
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edward Levert <weeselev...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List hot water heater

 

Mike,

 

Welcome to the list. You will love the C 34 better under sail.

 

The hot water heater on my 34 is at the forward end of the cockpit locker to 
the right of the engine just as you suggest. I am guessing it was original 
equipment. Cannot begin to help on how to plumb to the head/shower.

 

Ed

Briarpatch C 34 1981

New Orleans, La.

On Tuesday, December 22, 2015, Headgorilla via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Mike here...

 

Just bought a 1978 34' C, she is Red and is quite a rig...previous owner was 
a casual club racer and took exceptional care of the boat.

 

you will have to excuse my ignorance (on sailing) since I am moving up from a 
22' OdayMH..

 

I have been following the discussions that you guys are having and it is all 
very, very educationaland since I bought the boat on the day it was hauled 
for the winter (Had to inspect her first) I haven't been able to mess around 
with the sailing parts yet..just for FYI since you guys have been 
discussing it.this 34' has 10 winches and everything leads back to the 8 
around the cockpit (4 on cabin top and 4 on cockpit combing), the two by the 
mast are set for the babystay track and one for the spinnaker halyard

 

My question..the Admiral needs hot water for her shower..looks as if 
the best and only place for it is on the starboard side of the engine (atomic4 
rebuilt 2010 130hrs)...with access to the fresh water cooling system.gonna 
be some piping to do since the water tank and pump are under the port side 
cabin bunk and the head is on the starboard...

 

Any other ideas? or is that where I should put it?


Thanks,

 

Mike

1978 34' Skywalker

Southold, NY

 

 

 

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Re: Stus-List hot water heater

[Headgorilla via CnC-List]

Thanks Marek,
 
the previous owner has a functional shower set up in the head with a drain to 
the bilge.all with just the cold water feedguess his wife wasn't 
interested in using it and he had it set up "just in case" some one needed to 
wash off quick
 
again thanks
 
Mike
 
 
-Original Message-
From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Marek Dziedzic <dziedzi...@hotmail.com>
Sent: Tue, Dec 22, 2015 11:15 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List hot water heater



Mike,
 
Different boat etc., but…
 
You want to have the heater as close to the engine as possible. I assume that 
the heater will be heated with the engine coolant (and possibly with 
shorepower). The difficult plumbing is from the engine to the water heater and 
back. And you want to limit the amount of extra coolant that you need (i.e. the 
length of the hoses).
 
Plumbing to the head is usually much easier, because you just run a flexible 
pipe (PEX?) and that can go just about anywhere.
 
Also to consider is how you are going to deal with the water coming out of the 
shower (sump, pump, drain to the bilge etc.).
 
Good luck 
 
Marek
 
1994 C270 “Legato”
Ottawa
 
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edward 
Levert via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, December 22, 2015 22:54
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Edward Levert <weeselev...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List hot water heater
 
Mike,

 

Welcome to the list. You will love the C 34 better under sail.

 

The hot water heater on my 34 is at the forward end of the cockpit locker to 
the right of the engine just as you suggest. I am guessing it was original 
equipment. Cannot begin to help on how to plumb to the head/shower.

 

Ed

Briarpatch C 34 1981

New Orleans, La.

On Tuesday, December 22, 2015, Headgorilla via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

Mike here...

 

Just bought a 1978 34' C, she is Red and is quite a rig...previous owner was 
a casual club racer and took exceptional care of the boat.

 

you will have to excuse my ignorance (on sailing) since I am moving up from a 
22' OdayMH..

 

I have been following the discussions that you guys are having and it is all 
very, very educationaland since I bought the boat on the day it was hauled 
for the winter (Had to inspect her first) I haven't been able to mess around 
with the sailing parts yet..just for FYI since you guys have been 
discussing it.this 34' has 10 winches and everything leads back to the 8 
around the cockpit (4 on cabin top and 4 on cockpit combing), the two by the 
mast are set for the babystay track and one for the spinnaker halyard

 

My question..the Admiral needs hot water for her shower..looks as if 
the best and only place for it is on the starboard side of the engine (atomic4 
rebuilt 2010 130hrs)...with access to the fresh water cooling system.gonna 
be some piping to do since the water tank and pump are under the port side 
cabin bunk and the head is on the starboard...

 

Any other ideas? or is that where I should put it?


Thanks,

 

Mike

1978 34' Skywalker

Southold, NY

 

 

 



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Stus-List hot water heater

[Headgorilla via CnC-List]

Mike here...

Just bought a 1978 34' C, she is Red and is quite a rig...previous owner was 
a casual club racer and took exceptional care of the boat.

you will have to excuse my ignorance (on sailing) since I am moving up from a 
22' OdayMH..

I have been following the discussions that you guys are having and it is all 
very, very educationaland since I bought the boat on the day it was hauled 
for the winter (Had to inspect her first) I haven't been able to mess around 
with the sailing parts yet..just for FYI since you guys have been 
discussing it.this 34' has 10 winches and everything leads back to the 8 
around the cockpit (4 on cabin top and 4 on cockpit combing), the two by the 
mast are set for the babystay track and one for the spinnaker halyard

My question..the Admiral needs hot water for her shower..looks as if 
the best and only place for it is on the starboard side of the engine (atomic4 
rebuilt 2010 130hrs)...with access to the fresh water cooling system.gonna 
be some piping to do since the water tank and pump are under the port side 
cabin bunk and the head is on the starboard...

Any other ideas? or is that where I should put it?

Thanks,

Mike
1978 34' Skywalker
Southold, NY



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Re: Stus-List hot water heater

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Mike,

Welcome to the list. You will love the C 34 better under sail.

The hot water heater on my 34 is at the forward end of the cockpit locker
to the right of the engine just as you suggest. I am guessing it was
original equipment. Cannot begin to help on how to plumb to the head/shower.

Ed
Briarpatch C 34 1981
New Orleans, La.

On Tuesday, December 22, 2015, Headgorilla via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Mike here...
>
> Just bought a 1978 34' C, she is Red and is quite a rig...previous owner
> was a casual club racer and took exceptional care of the boat.
>
> you will have to excuse my ignorance (on sailing) since I am moving up
> from a 22' OdayMH..
>
> I have been following the discussions that you guys are having and it is
> all very, very educationaland since I bought the boat on the day it was
> hauled for the winter (Had to inspect her first) I haven't been able to
> mess around with the sailing parts yet..just for FYI since you guys
> have been discussing it.this 34' has 10 winches and everything leads
> back to the 8 around the cockpit (4 on cabin top and 4 on cockpit combing),
> the two by the mast are set for the babystay track and one for the
> spinnaker halyard
>
> My question..the Admiral needs hot water for her shower..looks as
> if the best and only place for it is on the starboard side of the engine
> (atomic4 rebuilt 2010 130hrs)...with access to the fresh water cooling
> system.gonna be some piping to do since the water tank and pump are
> under the port side cabin bunk and the head is on the starboard...
>
> Any other ideas? or is that where I should put it?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mike
> 1978 34' Skywalker
> Southold, NY
>
>
>
>
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Stus-List Hot water heater placement

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Paul,

Been following this thread. Under the quarter-berth has worked out well for me. 
So far. This system isn’t hooked up yet…

Hot Water Heater 


Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
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Re: Stus-List Hot Water heater question

[dwight via CnC-List]

The danger zone for most bacteria is 40 degrees F to 

140 degrees F

 

So these same bacteria will also survive and maybe thrive in the boat's
fresh water tanks too.we clean and soak the tanks and lines with
hypochlorite solution at the start of every season and treat added water
with hypochlorite (Javex) but tank water is used only for bathing and
washing dishes.only bottled water from home for drinking (coffee, tea etc.),
cooking and teeth cleaning

 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina
via CnC-List
Sent: July 8, 2014 7:09 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot Water heater question

 

Water from a hot water heater is not considered 'potable'. It should not 

be used for cooking or drinking.

 

The reason is this. The danger zone for most bacteria is 40 degrees F to 

140 degrees F. There are several harmful bacteria that can live in your 

water heater, including legionella, if the temperature is maintained 

below 140 degrees F.

 

The danger increases with less frequent use of the heater, meaning that 

freshly treated water is not being introduced regularly to kill or knock 

down these bacterial populations.

 

The bacteria can be introduced several ways; when installing any new 

water line, breach in city main, native to well water, new water heater, 

etc.

 

 

Bill Bina

 

 

On 7/8/2014 4:45 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:

 All,

 

 I've got a Raritan heater.  When I run my Yanmar 30GM the hot water 

 out of the tap is certainly cooler than I would get from my home water 

 heater.  When used to make instant coffee the coffee can be drunk 

 right away without cooling.

 

 How hot should the water get?

 Do I need to flush the water heater?

 

 -- 

 Joel

 

 

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-

No virus found in this message.

Checked by AVG - www.avg.com

Version: 2014.0.4716 / Virus Database: 3986/7808 - Release Date: 07/06/14

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Stus-List Hot Water heater question

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

All,

I've got a Raritan heater.  When I run my Yanmar 30GM the hot water out of
the tap is certainly cooler than I would get from my home water heater.
 When used to make instant coffee the coffee can be drunk right away
without cooling.

How hot should the water get?
Do I need to flush the water heater?

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Hot Water heater question

[Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List]

The hot water produced via the engine heat ex-changer in my 39 exits the
faucet at slightly less that the operating temperature of the engine. If
the engine water temp reads 180F the hot water at the faucet is usually
about 170F.

Jack Fitzgerald
CC 39 TM
HONEY - US12788


Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald, export manager
Fitzgerald Forwarding Co. Inc. FMC license no:1966F
260 Oatland Island Road, Savannah, GA 31410 USA
Tel. no: 912 898.1069 - Fax no: 912 898.9458
Email*: j...@fitzgeraldforwarding.com
www.fitzgeraldforwarding.com


**PLEASE REMOVE honeys...@aol.com honeys...@aol.com FROM YOUR ADDRESS
BOOK AND IMMEDIATELY ADD j...@fitzgeraldforwarding.com
j...@fitzgeraldforwarding.com*



On Tue, Jul 8, 2014 at 4:45 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 All,

 I've got a Raritan heater.  When I run my Yanmar 30GM the hot water out of
 the tap is certainly cooler than I would get from my home water heater.
  When used to make instant coffee the coffee can be drunk right away
 without cooling.

 How hot should the water get?
 Do I need to flush the water heater?

 --
 Joel
 301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Hot Water heater question

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

+1 to Jacks comments.  The difficulty with flushing is that the cold water
inlet and the drain line are shared.  I replumbed my heater with a 3-way
valve so that when I want to flush I shift the valve and now the cold water
goes IN the hot water outlet and OUT the drain at the cold water inlet tap.

Since I was replumimg I also fit a thermal mixing valve so that the hot
water (170°) wouldn't burn anyone.

https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1ydEpoMU1MWmx6Qms/edit

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 CC 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jul 8, 2014 4:46 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

 All,

 I've got a Raritan heater.  When I run my Yanmar 30GM the hot water out of
 the tap is certainly cooler than I would get from my home water heater.
  When used to make instant coffee the coffee can be drunk right away
 without cooling.

 How hot should the water get?
 Do I need to flush the water heater?

 --
 Joel
 301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Hot Water heater question

[Petar Horvatic via CnC-List]

After how many hours of engine runtime is your hot water at 170F?

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh
Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 5:30 PM
To: CC List; Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot Water heater question

 

+1 to Jacks comments.  The difficulty with flushing is that the cold water
inlet and the drain line are shared.  I replumbed my heater with a 3-way
valve so that when I want to flush I shift the valve and now the cold water
goes IN the hot water outlet and OUT the drain at the cold water inlet tap.

Since I was replumimg I also fit a thermal mixing valve so that the hot
water (170°) wouldn't burn anyone.

https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1ydEpoMU1MWmx6Qms/edit

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 CC 37+
Solomons, MD

On Jul 8, 2014 4:46 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

All,

 

I've got a Raritan heater.  When I run my Yanmar 30GM the hot water out of
the tap is certainly cooler than I would get from my home water heater.
When used to make instant coffee the coffee can be drunk right away without
cooling. 

 

How hot should the water get?  

Do I need to flush the water heater?

 

-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551 tel:301%20541%208551  


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Re: Stus-List Hot Water heater question

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

~1/2 hrish
On Jul 8, 2014 5:33 PM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

 After how many hours of engine runtime is your hot water at 170F?



 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
 Muckley via CnC-List
 *Sent:* Tuesday, July 08, 2014 5:30 PM
 *To:* CC List; Joel Aronson
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Hot Water heater question



 +1 to Jacks comments.  The difficulty with flushing is that the cold water
 inlet and the drain line are shared.  I replumbed my heater with a 3-way
 valve so that when I want to flush I shift the valve and now the cold water
 goes IN the hot water outlet and OUT the drain at the cold water inlet tap.

 Since I was replumimg I also fit a thermal mixing valve so that the hot
 water (170°) wouldn't burn anyone.

 https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1ydEpoMU1MWmx6Qms/edit

 Josh Muckley
 S/V Sea Hawk
 1989 CC 37+
 Solomons, MD

 On Jul 8, 2014 4:46 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 wrote:

 All,



 I've got a Raritan heater.  When I run my Yanmar 30GM the hot water out of
 the tap is certainly cooler than I would get from my home water heater.
  When used to make instant coffee the coffee can be drunk right away
 without cooling.



 How hot should the water get?

 Do I need to flush the water heater?



 --
 Joel
 301 541 8551


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Re: Stus-List Hot Water heater question

[Jack Fitzgerald via CnC-List]

It takes about an hour of running to bring the tanks (5 US gallons) up to
the same water temp as the engine's water temp.

Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald, export manager
Fitzgerald Forwarding Co. Inc. FMC license no:1966F
260 Oatland Island Road, Savannah, GA 31410 USA
Tel. no: 912 898.1069 - Fax no: 912 898.9458
Email*: j...@fitzgeraldforwarding.com
www.fitzgeraldforwarding.com


**PLEASE REMOVE honeys...@aol.com honeys...@aol.com FROM YOUR ADDRESS
BOOK AND IMMEDIATELY ADD j...@fitzgeraldforwarding.com
j...@fitzgeraldforwarding.com*



On Tue, Jul 8, 2014 at 5:32 PM, Petar Horvatic via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 After how many hours of engine runtime is your hot water at 170F?



 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
 Muckley via CnC-List
 *Sent:* Tuesday, July 08, 2014 5:30 PM
 *To:* CC List; Joel Aronson
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Hot Water heater question



 +1 to Jacks comments.  The difficulty with flushing is that the cold water
 inlet and the drain line are shared.  I replumbed my heater with a 3-way
 valve so that when I want to flush I shift the valve and now the cold water
 goes IN the hot water outlet and OUT the drain at the cold water inlet tap.

 Since I was replumimg I also fit a thermal mixing valve so that the hot
 water (170°) wouldn't burn anyone.

 https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1ydEpoMU1MWmx6Qms/edit

 Josh Muckley
 S/V Sea Hawk
 1989 CC 37+
 Solomons, MD

 On Jul 8, 2014 4:46 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 wrote:

 All,



 I've got a Raritan heater.  When I run my Yanmar 30GM the hot water out of
 the tap is certainly cooler than I would get from my home water heater.
  When used to make instant coffee the coffee can be drunk right away
 without cooling.



 How hot should the water get?

 Do I need to flush the water heater?



 --
 Joel
 301 541 8551


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Re: Stus-List Hot Water heater question

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Small diesel engines under light load have less “waste” heat than a similar HP 
gas engine.  A diesel engine also wants to be 170F to 180F to run well.

Pulling waste heat off to heat domestic water when motoring for a short time or 
under light load (calm conditions, under hull speed) may increase the time 
needed to reach full operating temp.  My Dodge pickup with a Cummins 5.9 liter 
6 cylinder diesel, driven “sporty” can take up to 15 minutes to hit full 
operating temp with an ambient outside temp of 70F.  If the average outside 
temp is below 50F I block off ½ of the radiator to reduce the time to reach 
operating temp.

How cold is your raw water?  I bet the guys in the Great Lakes are still seeing 
lake water temps 50F.

Calypso’s Perkins 4-108 motoring near hull speed in calm conditions (50F raw 
water) will make 4 gallons of water hot enough to need mixing in approx. 30 
minutes.

Martin
Calypso
1971 CC 43
Seattle

[Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 1:45 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Hot Water heater question

All,

I've got a Raritan heater.  When I run my Yanmar 30GM the hot water out of the 
tap is certainly cooler than I would get from my home water heater.  When used 
to make instant coffee the coffee can be drunk right away without cooling.

How hot should the water get?
Do I need to flush the water heater?

--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Hot Water heater question

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

Water from a hot water heater is not considered 'potable'. It should not 
be used for cooking or drinking.


The reason is this. The danger zone for most bacteria is 40 degrees F to 
140 degrees F. There are several harmful bacteria that can live in your 
water heater, including legionella, if the temperature is maintained 
below 140 degrees F.


The danger increases with less frequent use of the heater, meaning that 
freshly treated water is not being introduced regularly to kill or knock 
down these bacterial populations.


The bacteria can be introduced several ways; when installing any new 
water line, breach in city main, native to well water, new water heater, 
etc.



Bill Bina


On 7/8/2014 4:45 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:

All,

I've got a Raritan heater.  When I run my Yanmar 30GM the hot water 
out of the tap is certainly cooler than I would get from my home water 
heater.  When used to make instant coffee the coffee can be drunk 
right away without cooling.


How hot should the water get?
Do I need to flush the water heater?

--
Joel



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Re: Stus-List Hot Water heater question Now Solomons

[Chris Price via CnC-List]

Josh, had a great sail to and from Solomons this weekend and completely forgot 
to get in touch with you. We delayed our departure until after Arthur had 
passed so we only had a day there. Last time I was there we sailed the 
Solomon's race so didn't get much time then either. 

Chris Price 
Padel 
35 Mk I 

- Original Message -

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
To: CC List cnc-list@cnc-list.com, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com 
Sent: Tuesday, July 8, 2014 5:29:51 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot Water heater question 



+1 to Jacks comments. The difficulty with flushing is that the cold water inlet 
and the drain line are shared. I replumbed my heater with a 3-way valve so that 
when I want to flush I shift the valve and now the cold water goes IN the hot 
water outlet and OUT the drain at the cold water inlet tap. 

Since I was replumimg I also fit a thermal mixing valve so that the hot water 
(170°) wouldn't burn anyone. 

https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1ydEpoMU1MWmx6Qms/edit 


Josh Muckley 
S/V Sea Hawk 
1989 CC 37+ 
Solomons, MD 
On Jul 8, 2014 4:46 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
wrote: 



All, 

I've got a Raritan heater. When I run my Yanmar 30GM the hot water out of the 
tap is certainly cooler than I would get from my home water heater. When used 
to make instant coffee the coffee can be drunk right away without cooling. 

How hot should the water get? 
Do I need to flush the water heater? 

-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551 

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Re: Stus-List Hot Water heater question

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Bill you are absolutely correct. As a rule of thumb, one should always
avoid drinking the water out of a water heater.  Domestic, marine, RV, or
otherwise.  That is a strong argument for a thermal mixing valve and a temp
seting of +160°.

The anodes can also be made out of aluminum, thought to cause ahlzhimers.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 CC 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jul 8, 2014 6:10 PM, Bill Bina via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

 Water from a hot water heater is not considered 'potable'. It should not
 be used for cooking or drinking.

 The reason is this. The danger zone for most bacteria is 40 degrees F to
 140 degrees F. There are several harmful bacteria that can live in your
 water heater, including legionella, if the temperature is maintained below
 140 degrees F.

 The danger increases with less frequent use of the heater, meaning that
 freshly treated water is not being introduced regularly to kill or knock
 down these bacterial populations.

 The bacteria can be introduced several ways; when installing any new water
 line, breach in city main, native to well water, new water heater, etc.


 Bill Bina


 On 7/8/2014 4:45 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:

 All,

 I've got a Raritan heater.  When I run my Yanmar 30GM the hot water out
 of the tap is certainly cooler than I would get from my home water heater.
  When used to make instant coffee the coffee can be drunk right away
 without cooling.

 How hot should the water get?
 Do I need to flush the water heater?

 --
 Joel



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Re: Stus-List Hot Water heater question

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Joel,

 

Not sure what heater I have.   It’s old, round, and white with a black top.  It 
gets scalding hot after 20-30 of running time.  My problem is that I get hot 
water out of both the hot and cold faucets.  Something isn’t plumbed right, I 
think.

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2014 4:45 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Hot Water heater question

 

All,

 

I've got a Raritan heater.  When I run my Yanmar 30GM the hot water out of the 
tap is certainly cooler than I would get from my home water heater.  When used 
to make instant coffee the coffee can be drunk right away without cooling. 

 

How hot should the water get?  

Do I need to flush the water heater?

 

-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551 

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Re: Stus-List Hot Water heater question

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
I once troubleshot a home boiler with
  an integral domestic hot water coil. The water coming out of the
  taps never got more than warm. Turned out there was a "balance
  pipe" between the cold water input to the boiler and the domestic
  hot water output. In the middle of that pipe was a gate valve that
  LOOKED just fine. No signs of even slight seepage from the stem.
  Only problem was that after 30 years, the gate was no longer
  there. It had corroded away, so no matter how tight you thought it
  was shut, it was always effectively wide open. I replaced it with
  a ball valve.
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 7/8/2014 7:49 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List wrote:


  
  
  
  
Joel,

Not
sure what heater I have. Its old, round, and white with a
black top. It gets scalding hot after 20-30 of running
time. My problem is that I get hot water out of both the
hot and cold faucets. Something isnt plumbed right, I
think.

Jake
  


  


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Re: Stus-List Hot Water heater question

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Jake,

Probably the same one.  Guess I'll be flushing mine out.  The drain has a
hose thread on it so I can probably back flush it.  You may not want to
know what comes out.  Even on mine the cold water gets heated when the
engine is running.

Joel

On Tuesday, July 8, 2014, Bill Bina via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

  I once troubleshot a home boiler with an integral domestic hot water
 coil. The water coming out of the taps never got more than warm. Turned out
 there was a balance pipe between the cold water input to the boiler and
 the domestic hot water output. In the middle of that pipe was a gate valve
 that LOOKED just fine. No signs of even slight seepage from the stem. Only
 problem was that after 30 years, the gate was no longer there. It had
 corroded away, so no matter how tight you thought it was shut, it was
 always effectively wide open. I replaced it with a ball valve.

 Bill Bina

 On 7/8/2014 7:49 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List wrote:

  Joel,



 Not sure what heater I have.   It’s old, round, and white with a black
 top.  It gets scalding hot after 20-30 of running time.  My problem is that
 I get hot water out of both the hot and cold faucets.  Something isn’t
 plumbed right, I think.



 Jake




-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Hot Water heater question

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

If you are getting hot water from the cold water tap, the chances are that the 
hot water is spilling from the heater through the input hose.

Marek


Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:

Jake,

Probably the same one.  Guess I'll be flushing mine out.  The drain has a
hose thread on it so I can probably back flush it.  You may not want to
know what comes out.  Even on mine the cold water gets heated when the
engine is running.

Joel

On Tuesday, July 8, 2014, Bill Bina via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

  I once troubleshot a home boiler with an integral domestic hot water
 coil. The water coming out of the taps never got more than warm. Turned out
 there was a balance pipe between the cold water input to the boiler and
 the domestic hot water output. In the middle of that pipe was a gate valve
 that LOOKED just fine. No signs of even slight seepage from the stem. Only
 problem was that after 30 years, the gate was no longer there. It had
 corroded away, so no matter how tight you thought it was shut, it was
 always effectively wide open. I replaced it with a ball valve.

 Bill Bina

 On 7/8/2014 7:49 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List wrote:

  Joel,



 Not sure what heater I have.   It’s old, round, and white with a black
 top.  It gets scalding hot after 20-30 of running time.  My problem is that
 I get hot water out of both the hot and cold faucets.  Something isn’t
 plumbed right, I think.



 Jake




--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Hot Water heater question

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Joel, it sounds like we have the same heater and I think we have the same
engine (3GMF) - I get very hot water in half an hour of engine running or
less.  It is too hot to wash dishes in without adding cold so you can
actually put your hands in - however hot that is (and my cold water is cold
- from a tank under the starboard settee).

You may have scale issues, although eventually your water tank should get
hot anyway, but maybe check for a mixing valve.  Could it be a thermostat
that's stuck open causing the engine to run cool??

Tim

Mojito
CC 35-3
Branford, CT


On Tue, Jul 8, 2014 at 9:01 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com wrote:

 Jake,

 Probably the same one.  Guess I'll be flushing mine out.  The drain has a
 hose thread on it so I can probably back flush it.  You may not want to
 know what comes out.  Even on mine the cold water gets heated when the
 engine is running.

 Joel


 On Tuesday, July 8, 2014, Bill Bina via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 wrote:

  I once troubleshot a home boiler with an integral domestic hot water
 coil. The water coming out of the taps never got more than warm. Turned out
 there was a balance pipe between the cold water input to the boiler and
 the domestic hot water output. In the middle of that pipe was a gate valve
 that LOOKED just fine. No signs of even slight seepage from the stem. Only
 problem was that after 30 years, the gate was no longer there. It had
 corroded away, so no matter how tight you thought it was shut, it was
 always effectively wide open. I replaced it with a ball valve.

 Bill Bina

 On 7/8/2014 7:49 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List wrote:

  Joel,



 Not sure what heater I have.   It’s old, round, and white with a black
 top.  It gets scalding hot after 20-30 of running time.  My problem is that
 I get hot water out of both the hot and cold faucets.  Something isn’t
 plumbed right, I think.



 Jake




 --
 Joel
 301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

[Frederick G Street]

Dennis — what do they call these new heaters?  I looked on their website and 
didn’t see anything.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Feb 10, 2014, at 1:17 PM, Gmail capt...@gmail.com wrote:

 Isotemp just introduced a new line of water heaters. Plastic outside but 
 retained their dependable stainless tank. Reasonable price. I'm going to put 
 one of the small ones in Touché' in the next year or two. 
 
 Dennis C.
 Touché 35-1 #83
 Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

[Dennis Cheuvront]

Fred,

They're called Isotemp SPA models.

Look here:
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|51|2234308|2234310id=2357037

or here:
http://www.indelwebastomarine.com/int/products/isotemp-water-heaters/new-spa/

Dennis C.


On Tue, Feb 11, 2014 at 8:49 PM, Frederick G Street f...@postaudio.netwrote:

 Dennis -- what do they call these new heaters?  I looked on their website
 and didn't see anything.

 Fred Street -- Minneapolis
 S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 On Feb 10, 2014, at 1:17 PM, Gmail capt...@gmail.com wrote:

 Isotemp just introduced a new line of water heaters. Plastic outside but
 retained their dependable stainless tank. Reasonable price. I'm going to
 put one of the small ones in Touché' in the next year or two.

 Dennis C.
 Touché 35-1 #83
 Mandeville, LA



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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com


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Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

[Dr. Mark Bodnar]

I don't have a hot water heater on my boat - thinking about adding one 
(I'm not feeling the sun shower in the cockpit will fly with my soon 
to be 16 yr old daughter - all the kids are happy that the new boat 
actually has DOOR on the head rather than the current flimsy curtain)


I've never plugged into shore power with my current boat - and 
anticipate that my new CS 30 will live on the mooring and rarely, if 
ever, plug in at a marina.  As such I wonder if I can just get a heat 
exchanger and pressure tank for hot water rather than buying a 120V hot 
water heater.


Or is it a useless effort? am I better off just buying the pre-packaged 
unit?


Thoughts?
Mark


-
  Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
-

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 09/02/2014 5:41 PM, Rick Brass wrote:

I used a Kuuma 11811 stainless steel, rectangular, 6 gallon water heater,
120v, with front inlet/outletfor the heat exchanget. The unit is about 14 x
14 x 19 tall. Cost was about $230 plus UPS - about $250 total. I see them
listed on Amazon, Go2Marine, and other websites. You might be able to get
one on E-Bay for $150-175. Mine is mounted on a shelf in the cabinet under
the galley sink, in an outboard area that was not easily accessible for
storing stuff, nor used for anything else. The location also puts it within
18 of the pressure water pump on my boat.

Josh, why so much copper on your installation? I have used brass adapters
and connected right to the hoses for engine coolant and the pressure water
system.

Rick Brass

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom
Anderson
Sent: Sunday, February 09, 2014 2:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Hot water heater

Hey fellow CC 32 owners,

I am looking to replace my original Raritan hot water heater which died a
couple years ago.  Raritan's 1700 Series replacement model is one half inch
bigger than my old one, and I had trouble removing the old one from the
locker, so I think that model is out of the question.  So if anyone can
please chime in and let me know what specific model you have installed, it
would be most appreciated!

Tom Anderson
CC32 Nonpareil
Marblehead, MA
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Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

[Gmail]

Isotemp just introduced a new line of water heaters. Plastic outside but 
retained their dependable stainless tank. Reasonable price. I'm going to put 
one of the small ones in Touché' in the next year or two. 

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

 On Feb 10, 2014, at 12:53 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar drbod...@accesswave.ca 
 wrote:
 
 
 I don't have a hot water heater on my boat - thinking about adding one (I'm 
 not feeling the sun shower in the cockpit will fly with my soon to be 16 yr 
 old daughter - all the kids are happy that the new boat actually has DOOR on 
 the head rather than the current flimsy curtain)
 
 I've never plugged into shore power with my current boat - and anticipate 
 that my new CS 30 will live on the mooring and rarely, if ever, plug in at a 
 marina.  As such I wonder if I can just get a heat exchanger and pressure 
 tank for hot water rather than buying a 120V hot water heater.
 
 Or is it a useless effort? am I better off just buying the pre-packaged unit?
 
 Thoughts?
 Mark
 
 
 -
  Dr. Mark Bodnar
 B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
 Bedford Chiropractic
 -
 
 There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana
 
 On 09/02/2014 5:41 PM, Rick Brass wrote:
 I used a Kuuma 11811 stainless steel, rectangular, 6 gallon water heater,
 120v, with front inlet/outletfor the heat exchanget. The unit is about 14 x
 14 x 19 tall. Cost was about $230 plus UPS - about $250 total. I see them
 listed on Amazon, Go2Marine, and other websites. You might be able to get
 one on E-Bay for $150-175. Mine is mounted on a shelf in the cabinet under
 the galley sink, in an outboard area that was not easily accessible for
 storing stuff, nor used for anything else. The location also puts it within
 18 of the pressure water pump on my boat.
 
 Josh, why so much copper on your installation? I have used brass adapters
 and connected right to the hoses for engine coolant and the pressure water
 system.
 
 Rick Brass
 
 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom
 Anderson
 Sent: Sunday, February 09, 2014 2:41 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Hot water heater
 
 Hey fellow CC 32 owners,
 
 I am looking to replace my original Raritan hot water heater which died a
 couple years ago.  Raritan's 1700 Series replacement model is one half inch
 bigger than my old one, and I had trouble removing the old one from the
 locker, so I think that model is out of the question.  So if anyone can
 please chime in and let me know what specific model you have installed, it
 would be most appreciated!
 
 Tom Anderson
 CC32 Nonpareil
 Marblehead, MA
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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
 
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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
 
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Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

[Rick Brass]

Mark;

When I was doing research for my hot water system, I pretty much observed
that the lower price units were electric only, and the more expensive units
added a heat exchanger. I don't recall seeing any that only had a heat
exchanger without an electric heating element. Stainless steel construction
was also a higher cost item for most manufacturers, it seemed.

Doesn't mean they don't exist. Just that I didn't find any.

Rick Brass

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark
Bodnar
Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 1:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater


I don't have a hot water heater on my boat - thinking about adding one (I'm
not feeling the sun shower in the cockpit will fly with my soon to be 16
yr old daughter - all the kids are happy that the new boat actually has DOOR
on the head rather than the current flimsy curtain)

I've never plugged into shore power with my current boat - and anticipate
that my new CS 30 will live on the mooring and rarely, if ever, plug in at a
marina.  As such I wonder if I can just get a heat exchanger and pressure
tank for hot water rather than buying a 120V hot water heater.

Or is it a useless effort? am I better off just buying the pre-packaged
unit?

Thoughts?
Mark


-
   Dr. Mark Bodnar
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
Bedford Chiropractic
-




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Stus-List Hot water heater

[Tom Anderson]

Josh,
It totally rusted thru from the inside.  It had a life of 30 years.  Not too 
bad I think.
Tom Anderson
CC 32 Nonpareil
Marblehead, MA

90 days to launch
17 days, 22 hours to BVI sailing trip 

Message: 4
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2014 15:01:26 -0500
From: Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com
To: CC List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater
Message-ID:
   ca+zacrd6unjx1+v8ijyobzbj9t5evrvvdwxjsbrdh_4heeq...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Tom,

What exactly died?  Unless the tank has rusted through, most of the parts
are replaceable.  Heating element, thermostat, anode, and TP valve
(pressure relief).  I just finished rebuilding mine and feel quite
confident that it will last considerably longer for only about $100 in
repair parts.  That's pretty good considering they are upwards of $1200
new.  Follow the link for some pictures.___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

[wwadjo...@aol.com]

FWIW, I installed a PrecisionTemp on demand propane hot water heater three 
years ago.  A fully power vented unit.  Has worked flawlessly.  At the time I 
think it was only ABYC approved unit.   
Check at PrecisionTemp.com.  no affiliation.  Expensive, but
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi


Sent from my HTC

- Reply message -
From: Tom Anderson t...@nonpareilracing.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Hot water heater
Date: Mon, Feb 10, 2014 5:36 PM

Josh,
It totally rusted thru from the inside.  It had a life of 30 years.  Not too 
bad I think.
Tom Anderson
CC 32 Nonpareil
Marblehead, MA

90 days to launch
17 days, 22 hours to BVI sailing trip 

Message: 4
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2014 15:01:26 -0500
From: Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com
To: CC List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater
Message-ID:
ca+zacrd6unjx1+v8ijyobzbj9t5evrvvdwxjsbrdh_4heeq...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Tom,

What exactly died?  Unless the tank has rusted through, most of the parts
are replaceable.  Heating element, thermostat, anode, and TP valve
(pressure relief).  I just finished rebuilding mine and feel quite
confident that it will last considerably longer for only about $100 in
repair parts.  That's pretty good considering they are upwards of $1200
new.  Follow the link for some pictures.___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

[Edd Schillay]

Bill, 

Interesting. The latest issue of Practical Sailor discusses the risks of 
in-demand propane heaters. 

In what ways have you minimized the threats of propane leaks and carbon 
monoxide buildup? 


All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
CC 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.332.4400  | Office
914.332.1671  | Fax
914.774.9767  | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 5

On Feb 10, 2014, at 5:47 PM, wwadjo...@aol.com wwadjo...@aol.com wrote:

FWIW, I installed a PrecisionTemp on demand propane hot water heater three 
years ago.  A fully power vented unit.  Has worked flawlessly.  At the time I 
think it was only ABYC approved unit.   
Check at PrecisionTemp.com.  no affiliation.  Expensive, but
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi


Sent from my HTC

- Reply message -
From: Tom Anderson t...@nonpareilracing.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Hot water heater
Date: Mon, Feb 10, 2014 5:36 PM

Josh,
It totally rusted thru from the inside.  It had a life of 30 years.  Not too 
bad I think.
Tom Anderson
CC 32 Nonpareil
Marblehead, MA

90 days to launch
17 days, 22 hours to BVI sailing trip 

Message: 4
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2014 15:01:26 -0500
From: Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com
To: CC List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater
Message-ID:
   ca+zacrd6unjx1+v8ijyobzbj9t5evrvvdwxjsbrdh_4heeq...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Tom,

What exactly died?  Unless the tank has rusted through, most of the parts
are replaceable.  Heating element, thermostat, anode, and TP valve
(pressure relief).  I just finished rebuilding mine and feel quite
confident that it will last considerably longer for only about $100 in
repair parts.  That's pretty good considering they are upwards of $1200
new.  Follow the link for some pictures.
___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

[wwadjo...@aol.com]

It is a fully powered vented unit installed in cockpit lazarette.  That means 
unlike the Chinese units it has a flu, vented out topside near stern through a 
Fetus water tight fitting.   
The units have redundant solenoid to prevent propane leaks if ignition fails.   
Etc etc.  Look to next practical sailor for update or my letter re t his unit.  
Check out website.  
Bill 

Sent from my HTC

- Reply message -
From: Edd Schillay e...@schillay.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Hot water heater
Date: Mon, Feb 10, 2014 6:38 PM

Bill, 

Interesting. The latest issue of Practical Sailor discusses the risks of 
in-demand propane heaters. 

In what ways have you minimized the threats of propane leaks and carbon 
monoxide buildup? 


All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
NCC-1701-B
CC 37+ | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.332.4400  | Office
914.332.1671  | Fax
914.774.9767  | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 5

On Feb 10, 2014, at 5:47 PM, wwadjo...@aol.com wwadjo...@aol.com wrote:

FWIW, I installed a PrecisionTemp on demand propane hot water heater three 
years ago.  A fully power vented unit.  Has worked flawlessly.  At the time I 
think it was only ABYC approved unit.   
Check at PrecisionTemp.com.  no affiliation.  Expensive, but
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi


Sent from my HTC

- Reply message -
From: Tom Anderson t...@nonpareilracing.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Hot water heater
Date: Mon, Feb 10, 2014 5:36 PM

Josh,
It totally rusted thru from the inside.  It had a life of 30 years.  Not too 
bad I think.
Tom Anderson
CC 32 Nonpareil
Marblehead, MA

90 days to launch
17 days, 22 hours to BVI sailing trip 

Message: 4
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2014 15:01:26 -0500
From: Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com
To: CC List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater
Message-ID:
ca+zacrd6unjx1+v8ijyobzbj9t5evrvvdwxjsbrdh_4heeq...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Tom,

What exactly died?  Unless the tank has rusted through, most of the parts
are replaceable.  Heating element, thermostat, anode, and TP valve
(pressure relief).  I just finished rebuilding mine and feel quite
confident that it will last considerably longer for only about $100 in
repair parts.  That's pretty good considering they are upwards of $1200
new.  Follow the link for some pictures.
___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com___
This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

[wwadjo...@aol.com]

Excuse me, sp ckr, VETUS, NOT FETUS.   

Sent from my HTC

___
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Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

[Josh Muckley]

Seems like its probably gonna be tough to retrofit an old heater to a heat
exchanger style.  Probably have to buy one already made.  I heat mine
almost exclusively with the engine in the time that it takes to get to the
mooring or pier.

Josh
On Feb 10, 2014 1:55 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar drbod...@accesswave.ca wrote:


 I don't have a hot water heater on my boat - thinking about adding one
 (I'm not feeling the sun shower in the cockpit will fly with my soon to
 be 16 yr old daughter - all the kids are happy that the new boat actually
 has DOOR on the head rather than the current flimsy curtain)

 I've never plugged into shore power with my current boat - and anticipate
 that my new CS 30 will live on the mooring and rarely, if ever, plug in at
 a marina.  As such I wonder if I can just get a heat exchanger and pressure
 tank for hot water rather than buying a 120V hot water heater.

 Or is it a useless effort? am I better off just buying the pre-packaged
 unit?

 Thoughts?
 Mark


 -
   Dr. Mark Bodnar
 B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C)
 Bedford Chiropractic
 -

 There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
   - George Santayana

 On 09/02/2014 5:41 PM, Rick Brass wrote:

 I used a Kuuma 11811 stainless steel, rectangular, 6 gallon water heater,
 120v, with front inlet/outletfor the heat exchanget. The unit is about
 14 x
 14 x 19 tall. Cost was about $230 plus UPS - about $250 total. I see
 them
 listed on Amazon, Go2Marine, and other websites. You might be able to get
 one on E-Bay for $150-175. Mine is mounted on a shelf in the cabinet under
 the galley sink, in an outboard area that was not easily accessible for
 storing stuff, nor used for anything else. The location also puts it
 within
 18 of the pressure water pump on my boat.

 Josh, why so much copper on your installation? I have used brass adapters
 and connected right to the hoses for engine coolant and the pressure water
 system.

 Rick Brass

 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom
 Anderson
 Sent: Sunday, February 09, 2014 2:41 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Hot water heater

 Hey fellow CC 32 owners,

 I am looking to replace my original Raritan hot water heater which died a
 couple years ago.  Raritan's 1700 Series replacement model is one half
 inch
 bigger than my old one, and I had trouble removing the old one from the
 locker, so I think that model is out of the question.  So if anyone can
 please chime in and let me know what specific model you have installed, it
 would be most appreciated!

 Tom Anderson
 CC32 Nonpareil
 Marblehead, MA
 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com


 ___
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 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com



 ___
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 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

[Chuck S]

I'm just sayin. Shower at the marina. The solar shower can be rigged to work in 
the enclosed head. Hang the bag on the goosneck and run the hose through the 
porthole for the head? 

The way to keep a 16 yr old cruising? Tell her she can invite her friends. 
Decide early on how many friends, maybe one at first and see how it goes. Take 
lots of pictures. Make it fun. Don't scare her or ever make her look bad in 
front of her friends. Order pizza delivered to the dock. Let her plan the 
snacks and drinks, or maybe choose where to go. Let her steer while you tend 
the sheets and control lines. Learn how to handle your boat so you never ever 
hollar at anyone and you'll be the coolest dad ever. 

She'll be inviting boys along, probably older boys, so it's a great way to keep 
her close as she is picking dating partners. Great moments will develop to 
compliment her on her choice of quality friends, etc. Guys who are going 
somewhere, guys who can learn, take care of themselves, who think, and can take 
care of her, etc. 

My daughter is now 24. She graduated the USCG Academy as a Marine Science 
Major, and is presently a Lieutenant stationed at National Headquarters in Wash 
DC. Truth be told, she hates boats. Hates sailboats especially when they 
lean, but loved inviting older guys to come for a sail. She later served her 
first two years at sea sometimes commanded the bridge of a 378' cutter in the 
Pacific, but never learned to love sailboats. That's Dad's thing. 

Just sayin, the water heater may not win her over. How you treat her when she 
is aboard carries more weight. But do the water heater project for purely 
selfish reasons and keep us informed. 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 CC 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 
- Original Message -
From: Josh Muckley muckl...@gmail.com 
To: CC List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Monday, February 10, 2014 8:08:01 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater 



Seems like its probably gonna be tough to retrofit an old heater to a heat 
exchanger style. Probably have to buy one already made. I heat mine almost 
exclusively with the engine in the time that it takes to get to the mooring or 
pier. 

Josh 
On Feb 10, 2014 1:55 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar  drbod...@accesswave.ca  wrote: 



I don't have a hot water heater on my boat - thinking about adding one (I'm not 
feeling the sun shower in the cockpit will fly with my soon to be 16 yr old 
daughter - all the kids are happy that the new boat actually has DOOR on the 
head rather than the current flimsy curtain) 

I've never plugged into shore power with my current boat - and anticipate that 
my new CS 30 will live on the mooring and rarely, if ever, plug in at a marina. 
As such I wonder if I can just get a heat exchanger and pressure tank for hot 
water rather than buying a 120V hot water heater. 

Or is it a useless effort? am I better off just buying the pre-packaged unit? 

Thoughts? 
Mark 


- 
Dr. Mark Bodnar 
B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C) 
Bedford Chiropractic 
- 

There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. 
- George Santayana 

On 09/02/2014 5:41 PM, Rick Brass wrote: 

blockquote
I used a Kuuma 11811 stainless steel, rectangular, 6 gallon water heater, 
120v, with front inlet/outletfor the heat exchanget. The unit is about 14 x 
14 x 19 tall. Cost was about $230 plus UPS - about $250 total. I see them 
listed on Amazon, Go2Marine, and other websites. You might be able to get 
one on E-Bay for $150-175. Mine is mounted on a shelf in the cabinet under 
the galley sink, in an outboard area that was not easily accessible for 
storing stuff, nor used for anything else. The location also puts it within 
18 of the pressure water pump on my boat. 

Josh, why so much copper on your installation? I have used brass adapters 
and connected right to the hoses for engine coolant and the pressure water 
system. 

Rick Brass 

-Original Message- 
From: CnC-List [mailto: cnc-list-bounces@cnc- list.com ] On Behalf Of Tom 
Anderson 
Sent: Sunday, February 09, 2014 2:41 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Stus-List Hot water heater 

Hey fellow CC 32 owners, 

I am looking to replace my original Raritan hot water heater which died a 
couple years ago. Raritan's 1700 Series replacement model is one half inch 
bigger than my old one, and I had trouble removing the old one from the 
locker, so I think that model is out of the question. So if anyone can 
please chime in and let me know what specific model you have installed, it 
would be most appreciated! 

Tom Anderson 
CC32 Nonpareil 
Marblehead, MA 
__ _ 
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com 


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__ _ 
This List is provided by the CC

Stus-List Hot water heater

[Tom Anderson]

Hey fellow CC 32 owners,

I am looking to replace my original Raritan hot water heater which died a 
couple years ago.  Raritan's 1700 Series replacement model is one half inch 
bigger than my old one, and I had trouble removing the old one from the locker, 
so I think that model is out of the question.  So if anyone can please chime in 
and let me know what specific model you have installed, it would be most 
appreciated!

Tom Anderson
CC32 Nonpareil
Marblehead, MA
___
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Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

[Josh Muckley]

Tom,

What exactly died?  Unless the tank has rusted through, most of the parts
are replaceable.  Heating element, thermostat, anode, and TP valve
(pressure relief).  I just finished rebuilding mine and feel quite
confident that it will last considerably longer for only about $100 in
repair parts.  That's pretty good considering they are upwards of $1200
new.  Follow the link for some pictures.

https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1ydEpoMU1MWmx6Qms/edit

If you still decide to replace the heater I may be interested in aquiring
it from you.  You might also check out the review that Practical Sailor did
recently.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 CC 37+
Solomons, MD
 On Feb 9, 2014 2:41 PM, Tom Anderson t...@nonpareilracing.com wrote:

 Hey fellow CC 32 owners,

 I am looking to replace my original Raritan hot water heater which died a
 couple years ago.  Raritan's 1700 Series replacement model is one half inch
 bigger than my old one, and I had trouble removing the old one from the
 locker, so I think that model is out of the question.  So if anyone can
 please chime in and let me know what specific model you have installed, it
 would be most appreciated!

 Tom Anderson
 CC32 Nonpareil
 Marblehead, MA
 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com

___
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http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

[Josh Muckley]

Oh almost forgot...why are you heating your hot water?   ;-p
On Feb 9, 2014 2:41 PM, Tom Anderson t...@nonpareilracing.com wrote:

 Hey fellow CC 32 owners,

 I am looking to replace my original Raritan hot water heater which died a
 couple years ago.  Raritan's 1700 Series replacement model is one half inch
 bigger than my old one, and I had trouble removing the old one from the
 locker, so I think that model is out of the question.  So if anyone can
 please chime in and let me know what specific model you have installed, it
 would be most appreciated!

 Tom Anderson
 CC32 Nonpareil
 Marblehead, MA
 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

[Jake Brodersen]

Josh,

 

Nice job on the rebuild.  Looks like new.  Man that's a lot of copper pipe!
All of mine is plastic (grey butyl).  Mine is in much worse shape than yours
was, but it still works.  The case has some serious rust going on, despite a
repaint job.

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh
Muckley
Sent: Sunday, February 09, 2014 3:01 PM
To: CC List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

 

Tom,

What exactly died?  Unless the tank has rusted through, most of the parts
are replaceable.  Heating element, thermostat, anode, and TP valve
(pressure relief).  I just finished rebuilding mine and feel quite confident
that it will last considerably longer for only about $100 in repair parts.
That's pretty good considering they are upwards of $1200 new.  Follow the
link for some pictures.

https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1ydEpoMU1MWmx6Qms/edit

If you still decide to replace the heater I may be interested in aquiring it
from you.  You might also check out the review that Practical Sailor did
recently.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 CC 37+



___
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http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

[Rick Brass]

I used a Kuuma 11811 stainless steel, rectangular, 6 gallon water heater,
120v, with front inlet/outletfor the heat exchanget. The unit is about 14 x
14 x 19 tall. Cost was about $230 plus UPS - about $250 total. I see them
listed on Amazon, Go2Marine, and other websites. You might be able to get
one on E-Bay for $150-175. Mine is mounted on a shelf in the cabinet under
the galley sink, in an outboard area that was not easily accessible for
storing stuff, nor used for anything else. The location also puts it within
18 of the pressure water pump on my boat.

Josh, why so much copper on your installation? I have used brass adapters
and connected right to the hoses for engine coolant and the pressure water
system.

Rick Brass 

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom
Anderson
Sent: Sunday, February 09, 2014 2:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Hot water heater

Hey fellow CC 32 owners,

I am looking to replace my original Raritan hot water heater which died a
couple years ago.  Raritan's 1700 Series replacement model is one half inch
bigger than my old one, and I had trouble removing the old one from the
locker, so I think that model is out of the question.  So if anyone can
please chime in and let me know what specific model you have installed, it
would be most appreciated!

Tom Anderson
CC32 Nonpareil
Marblehead, MA
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com


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Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

[Josh Muckley]

Thanks Jake.  Yeah it is a bit off copper but I couldn't find suitable
plastic fittings that I felt would be versatile and robust enough.  I added
a thermal mixing valve and a 3-way for the end of season flush.  I also
added di-electric union nipples so that I can more easily check the anode.
I also had very constraining space and copper was the least bulky for all
the required tees and elbows.

I cut the sheet metal shell off and wire wheeled the rust off.  Primed
everything with rusty metal primer and then top coated.  So the inner tank
is protected on the outside and the outer shell is protected inside and
out.  The top had some holes which I was concerned would let water drip in
from the sink above so I epoxied the whole lid smooth and then painted.  I
replaced the fiberglass insulation and used stainless sheet metal screws to
put everything back together.

I used a garden hose to rinse the sediment out.  I couldn't believe how
much just kept coming.

I started because I just wanted to flush but couldn't get water in the hot
and out the cold/drain nipples.  I had also wanted to check the anode but
had to completely unscrew every plastic fitting (~12 elbows, tees, and
couplers).  To top it off the TP valve had been leaking since I purchased
the boat.

Josh
 On Feb 9, 2014 3:59 PM, Jake Brodersen captain_j...@cox.net wrote:

 Josh,



 Nice job on the rebuild.  Looks like new.  Man that's a lot of copper
 pipe!  All of mine is plastic (grey butyl).  Mine is in much worse shape
 than yours was, but it still works.  The case has some serious rust going
 on, despite a repaint job.



 Jake



 *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
 Muckley
 *Sent:* Sunday, February 09, 2014 3:01 PM
 *To:* CC List
 *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Hot water heater



 Tom,

 What exactly died?  Unless the tank has rusted through, most of the parts
 are replaceable.  Heating element, thermostat, anode, and TP valve
 (pressure relief).  I just finished rebuilding mine and feel quite
 confident that it will last considerably longer for only about $100 in
 repair parts.  That's pretty good considering they are upwards of $1200
 new.  Follow the link for some pictures.

 https://docs.google.com/folder/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1ydEpoMU1MWmx6Qms/edit

 If you still decide to replace the heater I may be interested in aquiring
 it from you.  You might also check out the review that Practical Sailor did
 recently.

 Josh Muckley
 S/V Sea Hawk
 1989 CC 37+


 ___
 This List is provided by the CC Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com


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Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

[Wally Bryant]

I put an isotherm in, but that's a different story as I added batteries 
where the old water heater was and thus reengineered the boat to move 
the water heater to a spot were the boat would be in balance and on its 
lines.


The point of this email, though, is that if you're replacing the water 
heater you should also replace the wires.  Wiregets old. And I recently 
had an idea I've never heard before, but wish I'd thought of it when 
doing the wiring.  If possible, on the AC run, add a junction box with 
one of those 'switch/timer' things.  You know, you turn the dial or push 
the button and set it for 30 to 60 minutes, and then it shuts off.  I 
haven't rewired a house in 20 years, so I don't know what's currently 
available.


I've noticed that it only takes 30 minutes for the AC system to bring my 
tank up to temp, and thatwill last all dayunless I have guests or decide 
to clean the galley. Leaving the AC heater on just wastes money.  Now, 
you rich folks up there in the US and Canada probably don't care, but 
these Mexican marinas make more money on electricity than they do on 
slip fees. If you're not paying attention, you can actually spend more 
money on electricity than the actual slip.


Wal

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Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

[Wally Bryant]

Tom -

BTW, I did make a page about my water heater replacement.  It's probably 
not relevant to your specific question...


http://www.wbryant.com/StellaBoat/Projects/plumbing/h2o_heat/

I wrote:
I put an isotherm in, but that's a different story as I added 
batteries where the old water heater was and thus reengineered the 
boat to move the water heater to a spot were the boat would be in 
balance and on its lines. 




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Stus-List Hot water heater

[Helen Abbott]

Greg:

Not sure if you got back to the list on your water heater issue, but 
just asking, did you resolve the problem?  If so, what was the problem?


Bob Abbott
AZURA
CC 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2012/08/23 10:57 PM, Greg Sutherland wrote:

We are anchored off of Masons island in Mahone Bay and just finished a nice bbq 
supper. Have been running the diesel for a good 60 minutes to charge the 
batteries and electronics.  when we turned the tap to clean the dishes the 
water is lukewarm. It typically takes 10 to 15 and the water will scald you. 
Any ideas what the issue may be?

Thanks group

Greg
87' 33 mk2
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry

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Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

[dwight veinot]

Rich

The hot water on my boat is also heated by the engine coolant, which passes
through a coil in the hot water tank.

I have installed a manual valve in the coolant line from the engine to the
salt water heat exchanger.

I can adjust that valve to control the flow of coolant to the hot water
tank, mostly I leave it full open to the heat exchanger but when I want
faster hot water I adjust it to force more coolant through the heater and
less through the engines salt water cooled heat exchanger.

I was not aware that a thermostat controlled engine coolant flow to the hot
water tank but maybe my boat has such a setup which was not functioning when
I first got the boat.  I did not produce much hot water in the tank by
running the engine until I installed that manual valve which allowed me to
divert more engine coolant to the coil in the hot water tank.

Maybe I had a malfunctioning thermostat in the line but it I did not see
one.  Based on your advice to Greg, I'll look harder now because that would
be preferable to using the manual valve.  

Is the thermostat that would control this usually found on the engine or the
hot water tank?

Thanks

Dwight Veinot
CC 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

-Original Message-
From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Rich Knowles
Sent: August 23, 2012 11:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

Thermostat? 

Rich 
(mobile)

On 2012-08-23, at 22:57, Greg Sutherland  bluenosesail...@hotmail.com
wrote:

We are anchored off of Masons island in Mahone Bay and just finished a nice
bbq supper. Have been running the diesel for a good 60 minutes to charge the
batteries and electronics.  when we turned the tap to clean the dishes the
water is lukewarm. It typically takes 10 to 15 and the water will scald you.
Any ideas what the issue may be?

Thanks group 

Greg 
87' 33 mk2
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry

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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5219 - Release Date: 08/23/12


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Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

[Rich Knowles]

Dwight:  I was referring to the engine coolant thermostat. If that fails open, 
the engine water temperature will be much lower than normal and so will any 
heat exchanged water. I have no idea what other mysteries you may have in your 
particular system. A second thermostat would be unusual. 

Rich 
(mobile)

On 2012-08-24, at 9:25, dwight veinot dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca wrote:

Rich

The hot water on my boat is also heated by the engine coolant, which passes
through a coil in the hot water tank.

I have installed a manual valve in the coolant line from the engine to the
salt water heat exchanger.

I can adjust that valve to control the flow of coolant to the hot water
tank, mostly I leave it full open to the heat exchanger but when I want
faster hot water I adjust it to force more coolant through the heater and
less through the engines salt water cooled heat exchanger.

I was not aware that a thermostat controlled engine coolant flow to the hot
water tank but maybe my boat has such a setup which was not functioning when
I first got the boat.  I did not produce much hot water in the tank by
running the engine until I installed that manual valve which allowed me to
divert more engine coolant to the coil in the hot water tank.

Maybe I had a malfunctioning thermostat in the line but it I did not see
one.  Based on your advice to Greg, I'll look harder now because that would
be preferable to using the manual valve.  

Is the thermostat that would control this usually found on the engine or the
hot water tank?

Thanks

Dwight Veinot
CC 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

-Original Message-
From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Rich Knowles
Sent: August 23, 2012 11:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

Thermostat? 

Rich 
(mobile)

On 2012-08-23, at 22:57, Greg Sutherland  bluenosesail...@hotmail.com
wrote:

We are anchored off of Masons island in Mahone Bay and just finished a nice
bbq supper. Have been running the diesel for a good 60 minutes to charge the
batteries and electronics.  when we turned the tap to clean the dishes the
water is lukewarm. It typically takes 10 to 15 and the water will scald you.
Any ideas what the issue may be?

Thanks group 

Greg 
87' 33 mk2
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry

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No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5219 - Release Date: 08/23/12


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Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

[Gosse, Rob]

Does the coolant-into-the-heater loop have its own impellor or is it the 
standard engine coolant pump? Is it shot?
Did the tank suddenly stop producing hot water, or slowly get cooler?
How is it when hooked to shore power and is AC heated?
It's obviously not an element if heating from shore power is still OK, so I'd 
look at the hoses, and water pump.

Rob


-Original Message-
From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Rich Knowles
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2012 9:42 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

Dwight:  I was referring to the engine coolant thermostat. If that fails open, 
the engine water temperature will be much lower than normal and so will any 
heat exchanged water. I have no idea what other mysteries you may have in your 
particular system. A second thermostat would be unusual. 

Rich 
(mobile)

On 2012-08-24, at 9:25, dwight veinot dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca wrote:

Rich

The hot water on my boat is also heated by the engine coolant, which passes
through a coil in the hot water tank.

I have installed a manual valve in the coolant line from the engine to the
salt water heat exchanger.

I can adjust that valve to control the flow of coolant to the hot water
tank, mostly I leave it full open to the heat exchanger but when I want
faster hot water I adjust it to force more coolant through the heater and
less through the engines salt water cooled heat exchanger.

I was not aware that a thermostat controlled engine coolant flow to the hot
water tank but maybe my boat has such a setup which was not functioning when
I first got the boat.  I did not produce much hot water in the tank by
running the engine until I installed that manual valve which allowed me to
divert more engine coolant to the coil in the hot water tank.

Maybe I had a malfunctioning thermostat in the line but it I did not see
one.  Based on your advice to Greg, I'll look harder now because that would
be preferable to using the manual valve.  

Is the thermostat that would control this usually found on the engine or the
hot water tank?

Thanks

Dwight Veinot
CC 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

-Original Message-
From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Rich Knowles
Sent: August 23, 2012 11:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

Thermostat? 

Rich 
(mobile)

On 2012-08-23, at 22:57, Greg Sutherland  bluenosesail...@hotmail.com
wrote:

We are anchored off of Masons island in Mahone Bay and just finished a nice
bbq supper. Have been running the diesel for a good 60 minutes to charge the
batteries and electronics.  when we turned the tap to clean the dishes the
water is lukewarm. It typically takes 10 to 15 and the water will scald you.
Any ideas what the issue may be?

Thanks group 

Greg 
87' 33 mk2
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry

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No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5219 - Release Date: 08/23/12


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If you received this email in error, please notify the sender by reply email 
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Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

[djhaug...@juno.com]

Dwight, Greg

Just some insights to consider...I hope it helps

A thermostat would regulate the flow of heating fluid to the hot water tank.  
I'm not sure of your setup, but it sounds like you may have a hot water tank 
with a heating water coil submerged in the tank that the engine coolant runs 
through to heat the water.  Typically, the thermostat on the water heater will 
open or close a circuit to either a pump (not your case) or an actuated valve 
(would be your case as you only get heating water when the engine is running 
and your fresh water pump is always on when the engine running).  So if your 
potable hot water tank had a thermostat regulating it's water temp, there 
should be some kind of actuated valve in the hose running from your heater to 
where it ties into the engine coolant line.  Now, it could tied in series, in 
other words, it could be part of the engine coolant loop and gets hot water 
through the Hot water heating coil constantly when the engine is running (which 
is probably not a good idea and doesn't sound like what you have), or there is 
a tee somewhere in the coolant hose that the hot water heater gets its heating 
water from.  

Anyway, all this dribble to try and help you determine whether or not your hot 
water tank is thermostat controlled.  

If the Water Heater is electric it will have a submerged electric heating 
element, sometimes 2 of them.  They do go bad and sometimes produce luke warm 
water.  Especially if there are 2 electric elements and one goes bad.


-- Original Message --
From: dwight veinot dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2012 09:25:14 -0300

Rich

The hot water on my boat is also heated by the engine coolant, which passes
through a coil in the hot water tank.

I have installed a manual valve in the coolant line from the engine to the
salt water heat exchanger.

I can adjust that valve to control the flow of coolant to the hot water
tank, mostly I leave it full open to the heat exchanger but when I want
faster hot water I adjust it to force more coolant through the heater and
less through the engines salt water cooled heat exchanger.

I was not aware that a thermostat controlled engine coolant flow to the hot
water tank but maybe my boat has such a setup which was not functioning when
I first got the boat.  I did not produce much hot water in the tank by
running the engine until I installed that manual valve which allowed me to
divert more engine coolant to the coil in the hot water tank.

Maybe I had a malfunctioning thermostat in the line but it I did not see
one.  Based on your advice to Greg, I'll look harder now because that would
be preferable to using the manual valve.  

Is the thermostat that would control this usually found on the engine or the
hot water tank?

Thanks

Dwight Veinot
CC 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

-Original Message-
From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Rich Knowles
Sent: August 23, 2012 11:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

Thermostat? 

Rich 
(mobile)

On 2012-08-23, at 22:57, Greg Sutherland  bluenosesail...@hotmail.com
wrote:

We are anchored off of Masons island in Mahone Bay and just finished a nice
bbq supper. Have been running the diesel for a good 60 minutes to charge the
batteries and electronics.  when we turned the tap to clean the dishes the
water is lukewarm. It typically takes 10 to 15 and the water will scald you.
Any ideas what the issue may be?

Thanks group 

Greg 
87' 33 mk2
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry

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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5219 - Release Date: 08/23/12


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Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

[Chuck S]

Dwight, 
We have the same engine, Universal M4-30 and I find engine temperature tends to 
run low, especially when the sea water is below 70F, or the engine is idling. 
If I idle at the dock, the temperature rises to 165 but I don't see the engine 
temperature reach the normal 190F unless I put some load on the engine. I 
replaced the thermostat on the engine and got the same result, so I appreciate 
your valve idea. I would expect the waters of NS would be cooler than New 
Jersey and that would also effect things? 


Chuck 
Resolute 
1990 CC 34R 
Atlantic City, NJ 
- Original Message -
From: dwight veinot dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2012 8:25:14 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater 

Rich 

The hot water on my boat is also heated by the engine coolant, which passes 
through a coil in the hot water tank. 

I have installed a manual valve in the coolant line from the engine to the 
salt water heat exchanger. 

I can adjust that valve to control the flow of coolant to the hot water 
tank, mostly I leave it full open to the heat exchanger but when I want 
faster hot water I adjust it to force more coolant through the heater and 
less through the engines salt water cooled heat exchanger. 

I was not aware that a thermostat controlled engine coolant flow to the hot 
water tank but maybe my boat has such a setup which was not functioning when 
I first got the boat. I did not produce much hot water in the tank by 
running the engine until I installed that manual valve which allowed me to 
divert more engine coolant to the coil in the hot water tank. 

Maybe I had a malfunctioning thermostat in the line but it I did not see 
one. Based on your advice to Greg, I'll look harder now because that would 
be preferable to using the manual valve. 

Is the thermostat that would control this usually found on the engine or the 
hot water tank? 

Thanks 

Dwight Veinot 
CC 35 MKII, Alianna 
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS 

-Original Message- 
From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] 
On Behalf Of Rich Knowles 
Sent: August 23, 2012 11:35 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater 

Thermostat? 

Rich 
(mobile) 

On 2012-08-23, at 22:57, Greg Sutherland  bluenosesail...@hotmail.com 
wrote: 

We are anchored off of Masons island in Mahone Bay and just finished a nice 
bbq supper. Have been running the diesel for a good 60 minutes to charge the 
batteries and electronics. when we turned the tap to clean the dishes the 
water is lukewarm. It typically takes 10 to 15 and the water will scald you. 
Any ideas what the issue may be? 

Thanks group 

Greg 
87' 33 mk2 
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry 

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Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5219 - Release Date: 08/23/12 


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Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

[Gosse, Rob]

Water in Mahone Bay is around the 22 degrees Celsius mark these days.

From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On 
Behalf Of Chuck S
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2012 10:13 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

Dwight,
We have the same engine, Universal M4-30 and I find engine temperature tends to 
run low, especially when the sea water is below 70F, or the engine is idling.  
If I idle at the dock, the temperature rises to 165 but I don't see the engine 
temperature reach the normal 190F unless I put some load on the engine.  I 
replaced the thermostat on the engine and got the same result, so I appreciate 
your valve idea.  I would expect the waters of NS would be cooler than New 
Jersey and that would also effect things?
Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Atlantic City, NJ

From: dwight veinot dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2012 8:25:14 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

Rich

The hot water on my boat is also heated by the engine coolant, which passes
through a coil in the hot water tank.

I have installed a manual valve in the coolant line from the engine to the
salt water heat exchanger.

I can adjust that valve to control the flow of coolant to the hot water
tank, mostly I leave it full open to the heat exchanger but when I want
faster hot water I adjust it to force more coolant through the heater and
less through the engines salt water cooled heat exchanger.

I was not aware that a thermostat controlled engine coolant flow to the hot
water tank but maybe my boat has such a setup which was not functioning when
I first got the boat.  I did not produce much hot water in the tank by
running the engine until I installed that manual valve which allowed me to
divert more engine coolant to the coil in the hot water tank.

Maybe I had a malfunctioning thermostat in the line but it I did not see
one.  Based on your advice to Greg, I'll look harder now because that would
be preferable to using the manual valve.

Is the thermostat that would control this usually found on the engine or the
hot water tank?

Thanks

Dwight Veinot
CC 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

-Original Message-
From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Rich Knowles
Sent: August 23, 2012 11:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

Thermostat?

Rich
(mobile)

On 2012-08-23, at 22:57, Greg Sutherland  bluenosesail...@hotmail.com
wrote:

We are anchored off of Masons island in Mahone Bay and just finished a nice
bbq supper. Have been running the diesel for a good 60 minutes to charge the
batteries and electronics.  when we turned the tap to clean the dishes the
water is lukewarm. It typically takes 10 to 15 and the water will scald you.
Any ideas what the issue may be?

Thanks group

Greg
87' 33 mk2
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry

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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2197 / Virus Database: 2437/5219 - Release Date: 08/23/12


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If you received this email in error, please notify the sender by reply email 
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L’information contenue dans ce courriel est destinée exclusivement aux 
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Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

[Prime Interest]

Checking the in-flow and out-flow hose temperature to the heater by hand
might eliminate a couple of possibilities. You can compare the temperature
relative to the engine hose coming into the engine thermostat. 

There is a possibility that there is a vapor lock in the heater hose -
depending on the relative height of the heater to the engine this might come
about if there was work done on the system or if there is a lower level of
coolant which let air into the HW system. 



ed


-Original Message-
From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Greg Sutherland 
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2012 9:57 PM
To: CandC 
Subject: Stus-List Hot water heater

We are anchored off of Masons island in Mahone Bay and just finished a nice
bbq supper. Have been running the diesel for a good 60 minutes to charge the
batteries and electronics.  when we turned the tap to clean the dishes the
water is lukewarm. It typically takes 10 to 15 and the water will scald you.
Any ideas what the issue may be?

Thanks group 

Greg 
87' 33 mk2
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry

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Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

[dwight veinot]

My boat has a separate pair of coolant lines for the heat exchanger and a
separate pair of coolant lines for the hot water tank, (supply and return
lines for each), that is.

So by closing the manual valve that I installed to the heat exchanger, the
engine's internal coolant pump is forced to send hot coolant through the
coil inside the hot water tank and the cold water in that tank acts for a
short time like a heat exchanger. In fact if I carried an unlimited supply
of fresh cold water so that I could leave the domestic hot water faucet
running continuously that would probably be adequate to keep the engine
running cool, but unless there is a separate thermostat somewhere in that
loop the engine might run too cold.

I always wondered why the domestic hot water set up worked so poorly when I
first got the boat but now I am thinking that there is a faulty thermostat
somewhere in the line to the hot water tank, if so and it were functioning
properly, then while motoring I would always have hot water at some
thermostatically controlled temp.  I guess most boats with engine coolant
heated domestic hot water are like that but I don't know.  Now, I think I
will start with looking for a thermostat on the hot water tank.  Maybe I can
get rid of that manual valve that I installed.  But if I find a thermostat
in the line that is heating the domestic hot water, and it is stuck closed,
I don't understand how I could produce hot water better by closing the
manual valve to the heat exchanger...there should still be a closed loop to
the heating coil inside the hot water tank.

More stuff to investigate...more convenience systems onboard means more
work, lucky I got time but the spaces where this stuff is located are
getting tighter as I get older.

Dwight Veinot
CC 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

-Original Message-
From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of djhaug...@juno.com
Sent: August 24, 2012 9:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

Dwight, Greg

Just some insights to consider...I hope it helps

A thermostat would regulate the flow of heating fluid to the hot water tank.
I'm not sure of your setup, but it sounds like you may have a hot water tank
with a heating water coil submerged in the tank that the engine coolant runs
through to heat the water.  Typically, the thermostat on the water heater
will open or close a circuit to either a pump (not your case) or an actuated
valve (would be your case as you only get heating water when the engine is
running and your fresh water pump is always on when the engine running).  So
if your potable hot water tank had a thermostat regulating it's water temp,
there should be some kind of actuated valve in the hose running from your
heater to where it ties into the engine coolant line.  Now, it could tied in
series, in other words, it could be part of the engine coolant loop and gets
hot water through the Hot water heating coil constantly when the engine is
running (which is probably not a good idea and doesn't sound like what you
have), or
 there is a tee somewhere in the coolant hose that the hot water heater gets
its heating water from.  

Anyway, all this dribble to try and help you determine whether or not your
hot water tank is thermostat controlled.  

If the Water Heater is electric it will have a submerged electric heating
element, sometimes 2 of them.  They do go bad and sometimes produce luke
warm water.  Especially if there are 2 electric elements and one goes bad.


-- Original Message --
From: dwight veinot dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater
Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2012 09:25:14 -0300

Rich

The hot water on my boat is also heated by the engine coolant, which passes
through a coil in the hot water tank.

I have installed a manual valve in the coolant line from the engine to the
salt water heat exchanger.

I can adjust that valve to control the flow of coolant to the hot water
tank, mostly I leave it full open to the heat exchanger but when I want
faster hot water I adjust it to force more coolant through the heater and
less through the engines salt water cooled heat exchanger.

I was not aware that a thermostat controlled engine coolant flow to the hot
water tank but maybe my boat has such a setup which was not functioning when
I first got the boat.  I did not produce much hot water in the tank by
running the engine until I installed that manual valve which allowed me to
divert more engine coolant to the coil in the hot water tank.

Maybe I had a malfunctioning thermostat in the line but it I did not see
one.  Based on your advice to Greg, I'll look harder now because that would
be preferable to using the manual valve.  

Is the thermostat that would control this usually found on the engine or the
hot water tank?

Thanks

Dwight Veinot
CC 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

[Joel Aronson]

Dwight,

The only thermostat I have is in the engine and I get lots of hot water.
 I've never seen an external thermostat, but they might exist.
Are you getting good pressure?
I'd start with the suggestion of feeling the input and output hoses to see
if there is a difference in temp. There should not be.  If the input is
cool, the problem is either a clogged hose or a bad thermostat.  If only
the output is cool it is either a clogged or air-bound water heater or
clogged line downstream.

Joel

On Fri, Aug 24, 2012 at 9:36 AM, dwight veinot dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca
 wrote:

 My boat has a separate pair of coolant lines for the heat exchanger and a
 separate pair of coolant lines for the hot water tank, (supply and return
 lines for each), that is.

 So by closing the manual valve that I installed to the heat exchanger, the
 engine's internal coolant pump is forced to send hot coolant through the
 coil inside the hot water tank and the cold water in that tank acts for a
 short time like a heat exchanger. In fact if I carried an unlimited supply
 of fresh cold water so that I could leave the domestic hot water faucet
 running continuously that would probably be adequate to keep the engine
 running cool, but unless there is a separate thermostat somewhere in that
 loop the engine might run too cold.

 I always wondered why the domestic hot water set up worked so poorly when I
 first got the boat but now I am thinking that there is a faulty thermostat
 somewhere in the line to the hot water tank, if so and it were functioning
 properly, then while motoring I would always have hot water at some
 thermostatically controlled temp.  I guess most boats with engine coolant
 heated domestic hot water are like that but I don't know.  Now, I think I
 will start with looking for a thermostat on the hot water tank.  Maybe I
 can
 get rid of that manual valve that I installed.  But if I find a thermostat
 in the line that is heating the domestic hot water, and it is stuck closed,
 I don't understand how I could produce hot water better by closing the
 manual valve to the heat exchanger...there should still be a closed loop to
 the heating coil inside the hot water tank.

 More stuff to investigate...more convenience systems onboard means more
 work, lucky I got time but the spaces where this stuff is located are
 getting tighter as I get older.

 Dwight Veinot
 CC 35 MKII, Alianna
 Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 -Original Message-
 From: cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 On Behalf Of djhaug...@juno.com
 Sent: August 24, 2012 9:55 AM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

 Dwight, Greg

 Just some insights to consider...I hope it helps

 A thermostat would regulate the flow of heating fluid to the hot water
 tank.
 I'm not sure of your setup, but it sounds like you may have a hot water
 tank
 with a heating water coil submerged in the tank that the engine coolant
 runs
 through to heat the water.  Typically, the thermostat on the water heater
 will open or close a circuit to either a pump (not your case) or an
 actuated
 valve (would be your case as you only get heating water when the engine is
 running and your fresh water pump is always on when the engine running).
  So
 if your potable hot water tank had a thermostat regulating it's water temp,
 there should be some kind of actuated valve in the hose running from your
 heater to where it ties into the engine coolant line.  Now, it could tied
 in
 series, in other words, it could be part of the engine coolant loop and
 gets
 hot water through the Hot water heating coil constantly when the engine is
 running (which is probably not a good idea and doesn't sound like what you
 have), or
  there is a tee somewhere in the coolant hose that the hot water heater
 gets
 its heating water from.

 Anyway, all this dribble to try and help you determine whether or not your
 hot water tank is thermostat controlled.

 If the Water Heater is electric it will have a submerged electric heating
 element, sometimes 2 of them.  They do go bad and sometimes produce luke
 warm water.  Especially if there are 2 electric elements and one goes bad.


 -- Original Message --
 From: dwight veinot dwightvei...@hfx.eastlink.ca
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater
 Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2012 09:25:14 -0300

 Rich

 The hot water on my boat is also heated by the engine coolant, which passes
 through a coil in the hot water tank.

 I have installed a manual valve in the coolant line from the engine to the
 salt water heat exchanger.

 I can adjust that valve to control the flow of coolant to the hot water
 tank, mostly I leave it full open to the heat exchanger but when I want
 faster hot water I adjust it to force more coolant through the heater and
 less through the engines salt water cooled heat exchanger.

 I was not aware that a thermostat controlled engine coolant flow

Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

[Rich Knowles]

Thermostat? 

Rich 
(mobile)

On 2012-08-23, at 22:57, Greg Sutherland  bluenosesail...@hotmail.com wrote:

We are anchored off of Masons island in Mahone Bay and just finished a nice bbq 
supper. Have been running the diesel for a good 60 minutes to charge the 
batteries and electronics.  when we turned the tap to clean the dishes the 
water is lukewarm. It typically takes 10 to 15 and the water will scald you. 
Any ideas what the issue may be?

Thanks group 

Greg 
87' 33 mk2
Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry

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Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

[colt...@verizon.net]

Low antifeeeze? 


Bill

-Original message-
From: Rich Knowles r...@sailpower.ca
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Fri, Aug 24, 2012 02:35:23 GMT+00:00
Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water heater

Thermostat? 

Rich 
(mobile)


On 2012-08-23, at 22:57, Greg Sutherland  bluenosesail...@hotmail.com  
wrote:


We are anchored off of Masons island in Mahone Bay and just finished a nice  
bbq supper. Have been running the diesel for a good 60 minutes to charge the  
batteries and electronics.  when we turned the tap to clean the dishes the  
water is lukewarm. It typically takes 10 to 15 and the water will scald you.  
Any ideas what the issue may be?


Thanks group 

Greg 
87' 33 mk2

Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry

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http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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