subject:"Stus\-List wiring advice"

Re: Stus-List wiring advice

2019-07-11 Thread ssjohnson via CnC-List

Installed a Water Witch switch AND Bilge Counter a few years ago so I know if I 
have a leak that needs attention.  A great product.  I also installed a manual 
bilge switch in the bilge just beneath the sole to assist in getting the bilge 
dry.Spencer Johnson 84 Lf 38 "Alegria "Racine,  wi
 Original message From: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com Date: 
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Contents of CnC-List digest..."Today's Topics:   1. Re:  Wiring advice (Hoyt, 
Mike)   2.  Wiring advice (Della Barba, Joe)   3. Re:  Wiring advice (Hoyt, 
Mike)--Message:
 1Date: Thu, 11 Jul 2019 12:16:25 +From: "Hoyt, Mike" 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wiring adviceMessage-ID:   
<169e312f80b4c044be2dc1780a7de72f50a...@hfxexc11.impgroup.com>Content-Type: 
text/plain; charset="utf-8"I second Water Witch.  We switched to that 4 seasons 
ago and it has worked perfectly.The only thing to watch out for is wet slime 
buildup on the switch will cause it to be fooled and run.  Quick wipe off and 
good for several more months. Installation is simpler than a traditional float 
switch and it is not constantly testing like an automatic bilge 
pump.MikePersistenceHalifax, NSFrom: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN via 
CnC-ListSent: Wednesday, July 10, 2019 8:48 PMTo: C: ALAN BERGENSubject: 
Re: Stus-List Wiring adviceI have been using an electronic switch (Water 
Witch), instead of a float switch, for more than five years, after two float 
switches failed. Here's the link for Defender Industries: 
https://search.defender.com/?expression=Water%20WitchAlan Bergen35 Mk III 
ThirstyRose City YCPortland, OROn Wed, Jul 10, 2019 at 3:53 PM Shawn Wright via 
CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:I might 
have to check these out. One of my Rule switches is flaky, or there is a bad 
connection somewhere down there. As it's the secondary pump, I've ignored it 
for now, but I plan to tackle it again before our long summer trip in a few 
weeks. I'd love to get a switch that will activate earlier so I can have less 
water down there, and keep it below the lowest keel stud.--Shawn 
wrightshawngwri...@gmail.comS/V Callisto, 1974 
C 
35https://www.facebook.com/SVCallistoOn
 Wed, Jul 10, 2019 at 5:37 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:Another vote for 
the Ultra Safety Systems bilge switches. They are designed with the common (3 
way) connections inside the switch. That is, there are separate wires for the 
manual supply, automatic supply and switched power to the pump. The negative 
side also runs through the pump. Each wire comes with an adhesive heat shrink 
butt connector.No need to join the manual supply, switched supply and pump 
positive in a 3 way connection.Dennis C.Touch? 35-1 #83Mandeville, LASent from 
my iPhoneOn Jul 9, 2019, at 3:46 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:I have two 
questions related to the correct way of doing wiring in a wet area (bilge) of 
the boat.1.  In the process of wiring in my new high water alarm, I found it 
convenient to split an existing always hot red wire in the bilge area to run 
both the bilge alarm and the emergency bilge pump switch.  I had some 3 way 
fittings from Defender (below) that I have used before which have crimp/heat 
shrink attachment ports.  After connecting them I realized that the center part 
of the fitting is actually not insulated.  This seemed like a bad idea, 
especially for a potentially wet area like the bilge.  I am confused by the 
logic of a sealed connector that has an unsealed junction exposed.   In the 
past I used a larger crimp/shrink butt connector and stuck two wires into one 
end and now that seems like a better solution.<2024633WY121.jpg>2. There is 
also an open connector block for all the mast wiring in the same area of the 
bilge, so high water would get to that area at a similar time as the alarm or 
emergency switch.  So is that considered an OK way to set up mast wiring in a 
wet area?Thanks- DaveS/V Aries1990 C 34+New London,

Re: Stus-List Wiring advice

2019-07-11 Thread Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List

No.  Not oil sensing.  Just that when covered in a slime buildup and sailing 
the switch stays wetter longer while tacking from the water sloshing in bilge 
and pump runs more than it should.

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della Barba, 
Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2019 9:40 AM
To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Stus-List Wiring advice

Is it oil sensing? Some of the oil sensing ones are IMHO too sensitive and 
won’t ever run the pump unless the bilge water is drinking water clean.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2019 8:16 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Wiring advice

I second Water Witch.  We switched to that 4 seasons ago and it has worked 
perfectly.

The only thing to watch out for is wet slime buildup on the switch will cause 
it to be fooled and run.  Quick wipe off and good for several more months. 
Installation is simpler than a traditional float switch and it is not 
constantly testing like an automatic bilge pump.

Mike

Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2019 8:48 PM
To: C
Cc: ALAN BERGEN
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wiring advice

I have been using an electronic switch (Water Witch), instead of a float 
switch, for more than five years, after two float switches failed. Here's the 
link for Defender Industries: 
https://search.defender.com/?expression=Water%20Witch<https://protect2.fireeye.com/url?k=88226c1a-d4b424ba-8822456d-0cc47adca788-a37175038dcbc248=1=https%3A%2F%2Fsearch.defender.com%2F%3Fexpression%3DWater%2520Witch>

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Stus-List Wiring advice

2019-07-11 Thread Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List

Is it oil sensing? Some of the oil sensing ones are IMHO too sensitive and 
won’t ever run the pump unless the bilge water is drinking water clean.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 11, 2019 8:16 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Wiring advice

I second Water Witch.  We switched to that 4 seasons ago and it has worked 
perfectly.

The only thing to watch out for is wet slime buildup on the switch will cause 
it to be fooled and run.  Quick wipe off and good for several more months. 
Installation is simpler than a traditional float switch and it is not 
constantly testing like an automatic bilge pump.

Mike

Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2019 8:48 PM
To: C
Cc: ALAN BERGEN
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wiring advice

I have been using an electronic switch (Water Witch), instead of a float 
switch, for more than five years, after two float switches failed. Here's the 
link for Defender Industries: 
https://search.defender.com/?expression=Water%20Witch<https://protect2.fireeye.com/url?k=88226c1a-d4b424ba-8822456d-0cc47adca788-a37175038dcbc248=1=https%3A%2F%2Fsearch.defender.com%2F%3Fexpression%3DWater%2520Witch>

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Wiring advice

2019-07-11 Thread Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List

I second Water Witch.  We switched to that 4 seasons ago and it has worked 
perfectly.

The only thing to watch out for is wet slime buildup on the switch will cause 
it to be fooled and run.  Quick wipe off and good for several more months. 
Installation is simpler than a traditional float switch and it is not 
constantly testing like an automatic bilge pump.

Mike

Persistence
Halifax, NS

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, July 10, 2019 8:48 PM
To: C
Cc: ALAN BERGEN
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wiring advice

I have been using an electronic switch (Water Witch), instead of a float 
switch, for more than five years, after two float switches failed. Here's the 
link for Defender Industries: 
https://search.defender.com/?expression=Water%20Witch

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Wed, Jul 10, 2019 at 3:53 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I might have to check these out. One of my Rule switches is flaky, or there is 
a bad connection somewhere down there. As it's the secondary pump, I've ignored 
it for now, but I plan to tackle it again before our long summer trip in a few 
weeks. I'd love to get a switch that will activate earlier so I can have less 
water down there, and keep it below the lowest keel stud.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com<mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com>
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto<https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.facebook.com_SVCallisto=DwMFaQ=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=bbFH0B2FUHJ3ouk0XOq3yebcFP8Ut8GR2__FvvkaP9s=xbdKQckZuE1Fo0h0Fp4MJozxYMNraCKCyWVjoIH0VWU=>


On Wed, Jul 10, 2019 at 5:37 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Another vote for the Ultra Safety Systems bilge switches. They are designed 
with the common (3 way) connections inside the switch. That is, there are 
separate wires for the manual supply, automatic supply and switched power to 
the pump. The negative side also runs through the pump. Each wire comes with an 
adhesive heat shrink butt connector.

No need to join the manual supply, switched supply and pump positive in a 3 way 
connection.

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 9, 2019, at 3:46 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I have two questions related to the correct way of doing wiring in a wet area 
(bilge) of the boat.

1.  In the process of wiring in my new high water alarm, I found it convenient 
to split an existing always hot red wire in the bilge area to run both the 
bilge alarm and the emergency bilge pump switch.  I had some 3 way fittings 
from Defender (below) that I have used before which have crimp/heat shrink 
attachment ports.  After connecting them I realized that the center part of the 
fitting is actually not insulated.  This seemed like a bad idea, especially for 
a potentially wet area like the bilge.  I am confused by the logic of a sealed 
connector that has an unsealed junction exposed.   In the past I used a larger 
crimp/shrink butt connector and stuck two wires into one end and now that seems 
like a better solution.
<2024633WY121.jpg>

2. There is also an open connector block for all the mast wiring in the same 
area of the bilge, so high water would get to that area at a similar time as 
the alarm or emergency switch.  So is that considered an OK way to set up mast 
wiring in a wet area?

Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   
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Re: Stus-List Wiring advice

2019-07-10 Thread David Miles via CnC-List

Do any of the pumps have one way valves built into them.
Our Rule pump let's water run back into the bilge, just enough to make it
run again when on auto.

It didn't do this when new two years ago.
Is it no good now?
Thx.

On July 10, 2019 16:49:23 ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List
wrote:
I have been using an electronic switch (Water Witch), instead of a float
switch, for more than five years, after two float switches failed. Here's
the link for Defender Industries:
https://search.defender.com/?expression=Water%20Witch

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Wed, Jul 10, 2019 at 3:53 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List
wrote:
I might have to check these out. One of my Rule switches is flaky, or there
is a bad connection somewhere down there. As it's the secondary pump, I've
ignored it for now, but I plan to tackle it again before our long summer
trip in a few weeks. I'd love to get a switch that will activate earlier so
I can have less water down there, and keep it below the lowest keel stud.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto

On Wed, Jul 10, 2019 at 5:37 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List
wrote:
Another vote for the Ultra Safety Systems bilge switches. They are designed
with the common (3 way) connections inside the switch. That is, there are
separate wires for the manual supply, automatic supply and switched power
to the pump. The negative side also runs through the pump. Each wire comes
with an adhesive heat shrink butt connector.

No need to join the manual supply, switched supply and pump positive in a 3
way connection.

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 9, 2019, at 3:46 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List
wrote:

I have two questions related to the correct way of doing wiring in a wet
area (bilge) of the boat.

1. In the process of wiring in my new high water alarm, I found it
convenient to split an existing always hot red wire in the bilge area to
run both the bilge alarm and the emergency bilge pump switch. I had some 3
way fittings from Defender (below) that I have used before which have
crimp/heat shrink attachment ports. After connecting them I realized that
the center part of the fitting is actually not insulated. This seemed like
a bad idea, especially for a potentially wet area like the bilge. I am
confused by the logic of a sealed connector that has an unsealed junction
exposed. In the past I used a larger crimp/shrink butt connector and
stuck two wires into one end and now that seems like a better solution.

<2024633WY121.jpg>

2. There is also an open connector block for all the mast wiring in the
same area of the bilge, so high water would get to that area at a similar
time as the alarm or emergency switch. So is that considered an OK way to
set up mast wiring in a wet area?

Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --
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Re: Stus-List Wiring advice

2019-07-10 Thread ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List

I have been using an electronic switch (Water Witch), instead of a float
switch, for more than five years, after two float switches failed. Here's
the link for Defender Industries:
https://search.defender.com/?expression=Water%20Witch

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Wed, Jul 10, 2019 at 3:53 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I might have to check these out. One of my Rule switches is flaky, or
> there is a bad connection somewhere down there. As it's the secondary pump,
> I've ignored it for now, but I plan to tackle it again before our long
> summer trip in a few weeks. I'd love to get a switch that will activate
> earlier so I can have less water down there, and keep it below the lowest
> keel stud.
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
> 
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 10, 2019 at 5:37 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Another vote for the Ultra Safety Systems bilge switches. They are
>> designed with the common (3 way) connections inside the switch. That is,
>> there are separate wires for the manual supply, automatic supply and
>> switched power to the pump. The negative side also runs through the pump.
>> Each wire comes with an adhesive heat shrink butt connector.
>>
>> No need to join the manual supply, switched supply and pump positive in a
>> 3 way connection.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touché 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Jul 9, 2019, at 3:46 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> I have two questions related to the correct way of doing wiring in a wet
>> area (bilge) of the boat.
>>
>> 1.  In the process of wiring in my new high water alarm, I found it
>> convenient to split an existing always hot red wire in the bilge area to
>> run both the bilge alarm and the emergency bilge pump switch.  I had some 3
>> way fittings from Defender (below) that I have used before which have
>> crimp/heat shrink attachment ports.  After connecting them I realized that
>> the center part of the fitting is actually not insulated.  This seemed like
>> a bad idea, especially for a potentially wet area like the bilge.  I am
>> confused by the logic of a sealed connector that has an unsealed junction
>> exposed.   In the past I used a larger crimp/shrink butt connector and
>> stuck two wires into one end and now that seems like a better solution.
>> <2024633WY121.jpg>
>>
>> 2. There is also an open connector block for all the mast wiring in the
>> same area of the bilge, so high water would get to that area at a similar
>> time as the alarm or emergency switch.  So is that considered an OK way to
>> set up mast wiring in a wet area?
>>
>> Thanks- Dave
>>
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C 34+
>> New London, CT
>>
>> 
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>>
>> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ=bbFH0B2FUHJ3ouk0XOq3yebcFP8Ut8GR2__FvvkaP9s=R1kFLMgjqGpUZkxeDS6SfztD-7XBK0EDXbXGZkI8nBo=
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Wiring advice

2019-07-10 Thread Shawn Wright via CnC-List

I might have to check these out. One of my Rule switches is flaky, or there
is a bad connection somewhere down there. As it's the secondary pump, I've
ignored it for now, but I plan to tackle it again before our long summer
trip in a few weeks. I'd love to get a switch that will activate earlier so
I can have less water down there, and keep it below the lowest keel stud.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Wed, Jul 10, 2019 at 5:37 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Another vote for the Ultra Safety Systems bilge switches. They are
> designed with the common (3 way) connections inside the switch. That is,
> there are separate wires for the manual supply, automatic supply and
> switched power to the pump. The negative side also runs through the pump.
> Each wire comes with an adhesive heat shrink butt connector.
>
> No need to join the manual supply, switched supply and pump positive in a
> 3 way connection.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touché 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jul 9, 2019, at 3:46 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I have two questions related to the correct way of doing wiring in a wet
> area (bilge) of the boat.
>
> 1.  In the process of wiring in my new high water alarm, I found it
> convenient to split an existing always hot red wire in the bilge area to
> run both the bilge alarm and the emergency bilge pump switch.  I had some 3
> way fittings from Defender (below) that I have used before which have
> crimp/heat shrink attachment ports.  After connecting them I realized that
> the center part of the fitting is actually not insulated.  This seemed like
> a bad idea, especially for a potentially wet area like the bilge.  I am
> confused by the logic of a sealed connector that has an unsealed junction
> exposed.   In the past I used a larger crimp/shrink butt connector and
> stuck two wires into one end and now that seems like a better solution.
> <2024633WY121.jpg>
>
> 2. There is also an open connector block for all the mast wiring in the
> same area of the bilge, so high water would get to that area at a similar
> time as the alarm or emergency switch.  So is that considered an OK way to
> set up mast wiring in a wet area?
>
> Thanks- Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
> 
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Wiring advice

2019-07-10 Thread Dennis C. via CnC-List

Another vote for the Ultra Safety Systems bilge switches. They are designed 
with the common (3 way) connections inside the switch. That is, there are 
separate wires for the manual supply, automatic supply and switched power to 
the pump. The negative side also runs through the pump. Each wire comes with an 
adhesive heat shrink butt connector. 

No need to join the manual supply, switched supply and pump positive in a 3 way 
connection. 

Dennis C. 
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 9, 2019, at 3:46 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I have two questions related to the correct way of doing wiring in a wet area 
> (bilge) of the boat.  
> 
> 1.  In the process of wiring in my new high water alarm, I found it 
> convenient to split an existing always hot red wire in the bilge area to run 
> both the bilge alarm and the emergency bilge pump switch.  I had some 3 way 
> fittings from Defender (below) that I have used before which have crimp/heat 
> shrink attachment ports.  After connecting them I realized that the center 
> part of the fitting is actually not insulated.  This seemed like a bad idea, 
> especially for a potentially wet area like the bilge.  I am confused by the 
> logic of a sealed connector that has an unsealed junction exposed.   In the 
> past I used a larger crimp/shrink butt connector and stuck two wires into one 
> end and now that seems like a better solution. 
> <2024633WY121.jpg>
> 
> 2. There is also an open connector block for all the mast wiring in the same 
> area of the bilge, so high water would get to that area at a similar time as 
> the alarm or emergency switch.  So is that considered an OK way to set up 
> mast wiring in a wet area?
> 
> Thanks- Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Stus-List Wiring advice

2019-07-09 Thread David Knecht via CnC-List

I have two questions related to the correct way of doing wiring in a wet area 
(bilge) of the boat.  

1.  In the process of wiring in my new high water alarm, I found it convenient 
to split an existing always hot red wire in the bilge area to run both the 
bilge alarm and the emergency bilge pump switch.  I had some 3 way fittings 
from Defender (below) that I have used before which have crimp/heat shrink 
attachment ports.  After connecting them I realized that the center part of the 
fitting is actually not insulated.  This seemed like a bad idea, especially for 
a potentially wet area like the bilge.  I am confused by the logic of a sealed 
connector that has an unsealed junction exposed.   In the past I used a larger 
crimp/shrink butt connector and stuck two wires into one end and now that seems 
like a better solution. 


2. There is also an open connector block for all the mast wiring in the same 
area of the bilge, so high water would get to that area at a similar time as 
the alarm or emergency switch.  So is that considered an OK way to set up mast 
wiring in a wet area?

Thanks- Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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