Re: [drakelist] Confessions of an Appliance Operator

2007-12-24 Thread Dennis Monticelli

Dennis Monticelli [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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This is the same scheme that I use.  It is flexible, quiet, and
completely non-invasive.  Also, I second the recommendation on the
Panasonic Panaflo line.  They are clearly superior to the PC grade
fans coming out of China.  Another tip: buy a larger fan and run it
slower.  It will move the same amount of air as a small fan run at
full speed yet make much less noise.  Also its reach is better so
the warm air is drawn in over a wider area.

Dennis AE6C

On Dec 23, 2007 1:44 PM, john [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 john [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
 --
 An option I use is a DC wall wart with selectable secondary voltage, so
 that you can move the fan (on rubber feet) from rig to rig, and adjust the
 fan speed with the voltage on the wall wart. They're less than ten
 bucks.  9V on a 12v fan is a happy medium.

 John K5MO


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[drakelist] R-4 Crystal Replacement(s)

2007-12-24 Thread EP Swynar
Good Morning All,

If you take a moment to click onto this site 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemrd=1item=220185518740ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:ITih=012
it will become readily apparent why I'm experimenting here with the notion of 
using a dedicated RF signal generator as a replacement for any HC-6/U band  
crystals at the back of my new R-4 receiver!

With days still to go on this auction, it's already approaching the price of 
the entire Drake Twins station that I purchased here the other day...

BTW, the notion of a signal-generator-cum-crystal-substitute is a viable one: I 
played about with mine yesterday, and managed to copy all manner of shortwave  
medium wave stuff on the rig, ...for free. 

The injection level of RF voltage into the crystal socket is important, though: 
I obviously never had enough soup from my WW2-vintage generator, because 
S-meter side-by-side comparisons --- i.e. the signal strength of a BC station, 
crystal vs. generator --- showed that I needed a lot more horsepower out of 
the generator than it was capable of delivering...

A solidstate, compact generator --- with a built-in crystal calibrator --- is 
in order here for casual SWL'ing. For the Ham bands, though, I still prefer the 
rockbound route...

~73~ Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ

Re: [drakelist] Confessions of an Appliance Operator

2007-12-24 Thread Eugene Balinski

Eugene Balinski [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
All,

   One of the other solutions that is easy and quiet it to
use a 24 volt DC fan and run it off of your station 12V DC
supply.  These fans are usually cheap and are in generally
in ample supply at local ham fests (at least here  in New
England).  They come in many sizes.  As mentioned below,
the larger ones are better for this application. 

  Simply place the fan  on top of the finals, use a couple
of plastic screw as off-set feet to avoid scratching the
cabinet, wire it to 12VDC, and you are done.   Cool Finals.


73, Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all. 
Gene K1NR


On Mon, 24 Dec 2007 01:55:53 -0800
 Dennis Monticelli [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 Dennis Monticelli [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an
 utterance to the drakelist gang

--
 This is the same scheme that I use.  It is flexible,
 quiet, and
 completely non-invasive.  Also, I second the
 recommendation on the
 Panasonic Panaflo line.  They are clearly superior to the
 PC grade
 fans coming out of China.  Another tip: buy a larger fan
 and run it
 slower.  It will move the same amount of air as a small
 fan run at
 full speed yet make much less noise.  Also its reach is
 better so
 the warm air is drawn in over a wider area.
 
 Dennis AE6C
 
 On Dec 23, 2007 1:44 PM, john [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  john [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the
 drakelist gang
 
-
Web mail provided by NuNet, Inc. The Premier National provider.
http://www.nni.com/


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Re: [drakelist] Confessions of an Appliance Operator

2007-12-24 Thread K9SQG

[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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I use specially selected 220v fans that start and run reliably at 110 v.  
Can't hear them and they are the ones I use on L4B/L7 power supply 
upgrades/rebuilds.

Merry Christmas from a politically incorrect Drake enthusiast!
**See AOL's top rated recipes 
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop000304)

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[drakelist] Cooling Fan on finals

2007-12-24 Thread Howard Traxler

Howard Traxler [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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A-way back in the day, when my first Drake twins were new to me--that would 
be the late 60's--I was told that the xmtr was designed to run at that 
temperature and that I'd have drift problems if I ran it cooler.  I never 
did any hard core testing to find out.

WA9RYF

- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2007 1:18 PM
Subject: Re: [drakelist] Confessions of an Appliance Operator


: [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist 
gang -- 
: I use specially selected 220v fans that start and run reliably at 110 v.
: Can't hear them and they are the ones I use on L4B/L7 power supply
: upgrades/rebuilds.
:
: Merry Christmas from a politically incorrect Drake enthusiast!
: **See AOL's top rated recipes
: 
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop000304)--
 
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Re: [drakelist] Cooling Fan on finals

2007-12-24 Thread Jim Shorney

Jim Shorney [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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On Mon, 24 Dec 2007 15:27:52 -0600, Howard Traxler wrote:

I was told that the xmtr was designed to run at that 
temperature and that I'd have drift problems if I ran it cooler.

Aside from Evan's comments, that doesn't seem to follow intuitively. I would
think that sucking hot air out of the back of the radio would crete a more
stable temperature environment inside the radio across the changes in heat
generated from RX to TX. With (theoretically) the most stable temps being the
farthest away from the final cage. What's in the opposite corner of the
transmitter from the final cage? The PTO! Seems to me that cooling the radio
would reduce drift.

Aside from that, it's a scientific fact that ANY electronic component (not
just toobs) will last longer when run cooler. I would prefer to err on the
side of component life.



73

-Jim

--
Ham Radio NU0C
TR7/RV7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C, L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 
3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/


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Re: [drakelist] Cooling Fan on finals

2007-12-24 Thread Garey Barrell


Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Amazing how much mis-information flows over the internet!!

Temperature stability is a function of temperature CHANGE, not absolute 
temperature.   The reason a temperature controlled oscillator is NOT 
because it is heated, but because the heat is held constant by an 
internal, tightly temperature controlled heater.


Adding a fan to any electronic equipment, especially tube based 
equipment, will increase the life of the tubes and components, AND will 
also keep the temperature constant because of the constant flow of air.  
Again, the object is to stabilize the temperature, not raise or lower 
it, to maintain frequency stability.


A T-4X(any) will change cabinet temperature considerably from receive to 
transmit when there is no fan cooling.  This is minimized by the 
addition of a fan, blowing air  __OUT__.  The object is to assist the 
normal convection cooling, (hot air rises,) by forcing air AWAY from the 
transmitter final compartment, AND the rest of the transmitter.  Blowing 
air IN forces heated air throughout the chassis, including the PTO, 
causing the temperature to VARY, not stabilize.  Blowing air into the 
transmitter reduces the heat in the final compartment, but INCREASES the 
heat everywhere else, varying the temperature of the PTO as well.


The TR-7 is DESIGNED to have air drawn out of the chassis, for the same 
reasons, and the heatsink is DESIGNED to have air drawn past it as 
well.  The cooling SYSTEM is designed to transfer heat from the final 
transistors to the heatsink to air being blown AWAY from the area.  You 
can hold a small source of smoke, (candle, incense stick, etc.,) near 
any of the cabinet slots and smoke will be drawn INTO them when the fan 
is installed as designed, blowing OUT.


Merry Christmas!!

73, Garey - K4OAH
St Charles, IL

Drake 2-B, 4-B  C-Line Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang 
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Not sure I understand that comment about the drift, hi hi.  The drift is a 
function of the thermal environment with respect to the PTO components, 
including any negative temperature compensating capacitors.  While the transmitter 
will work, it will have a warm up period, and then cycles up and down as a 
function of the transmit duty cycle.  Compensating for the former is enough of an 
engineering challenge, but the latter, for tube gear of the 60s, well, it is 
harder to address although there were some good designs out there.  From a 
theoretical perspective, I'm not sure why the rig would run better when it is hot. 
 A temperature compensated crystal oven obviously works better at higher 
stabilized temperature (above room ambient) but conventional circuits, well I'm 
not sure.  Drift aside, the tubes will last longer with improved cooling though.




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[drakelist] Drake 2B Parts Needed

2007-12-24 Thread Byron Tatum
Hello-
I am restoring a Drake 2B and need these parts:
1  Main Tuning Knob
1  Dial Pointer ( long red one that slides with string drive)
Thanks, Byron WA5THJ.

RE: [drakelist] Cooling Fan on finals

2007-12-24 Thread Peter Bent

Peter Bent [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Just curious, has anyone actually measured the temps in the cages-- before
and after? 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Ron Wagner
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2007 8:18 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [drakelist] Cooling Fan on finals


Ron Wagner [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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The way I went about his was a half wave (single diode) and filter cap 
from the 12VAC filament line.  I drive a 24 volt fan drawing air out of 
the final cage.  Turns the fan on as I turn on the rig, shuts down when 
turned off.  Runs slow and quit, but really makes a difference on the 
temp of the final cage.  I attach the fan to the rear of the cage (so the 
cabinet comes off without problems) with grommets and black nylon wire 
ties.  This arrangement does not seem to damage the cabinet, and does a 
nice job cooling.

As far as stability, as long as you do not blow the warm air in, it should 
make the rig more stable.  The cabinet and associated circuits  should 
stay much more constant in temperature.  In a good oscillator design, 
which Drake has, it is typically temperature change that causes the drift.

73,
Ron WD8SBB

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