Re: [drakelist] T4B Trouble

2008-01-01 Thread Bill Carpenter


Bill Carpenter [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Thanks Gary, I'll look at the AC-4 though I replaced the electrolytics a few 
years ago.  Which pin is the bias measured on?  It looks like pin  9 to me 
at -45 to -65 volts against pin 1 which is ground?


- Original Message - 
From: Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2008 9:46 AM
Subject: Re: [drakelist] T4B Trouble




Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist 
gang

--
Bill -

Sounds like you lost the bias supply in the AC-4, electrolytics and/or 
rectifiers.  There has been some discussion of this over the last few 
weeks on here.


The AC-4R kit from The Heathkit Shop is the best answer for AC-4's that 
still have their original electrolytics.


You got lucky in that the cathode resistors opened!  Carbon comp resistors 
are pretty hard to find.  Best replacement is the Ohmite OX ceramic 
composition resistor available from Mouser and others.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B  C-Line Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com



Bill Carpenter wrote:


Bill Carpenter [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
I was enjoying SKN last night on 40M with my Bline but decided to switch 
to my K2/100 to use a more effective NB against bad powerline noise that 
has popped up here recently.  I left the Bline on and was happily CWing 
away when the Bline kind of blinked so I turned it off.  Later I found 
no output at all so suspecting finals I checked them and yes they were 
bad.  I put good ones in and still no output.  There had been no noise, 
smoke or burned sound so I had not looked under the finals.  I did that 
this morning and found R32 and R33 (1 watt 15 Ohm) both burnt and testing 
very high or open.  Obviously I need to replace these but is there 
anything else I should check first to see what may have caused this to 
happen?


Any help appreciated.

Happy New Year!  73

Bill

NZ0T



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Re: [drakelist] T4B Trouble

2008-01-01 Thread Bill Carpenter


Bill Carpenter [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Power supply seems OK.  Bias adjusts from -49 to -90 and voltages at 279 and 
682.  Both a little high but seem OK to me.  Anything else I should check 
before I try replacing the cathode resistors?  Gotta wait to order some 
anyway.
- Original Message - 
From: Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2008 10:34 AM
Subject: Re: [drakelist] T4B Trouble




Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist 
gang

--
Yep, that's it.  It's adjustable to set the idle current for the finals. 
No bias voltage = full plate current!


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B  C-Line Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com



Bill Carpenter wrote:


Bill Carpenter [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Thanks Gary, I'll look at the AC-4 though I replaced the electrolytics a 
few years ago.  Which pin is the bias measured on?  It looks like pin  9 
to me at -45 to -65 volts against pin 1 which is ground?


- Original Message - From: Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2008 9:46 AM
Subject: Re: [drakelist] T4B Trouble




Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist 
gang

--
Bill -

Sounds like you lost the bias supply in the AC-4, electrolytics and/or 
rectifiers.  There has been some discussion of this over the last few 
weeks on here.


The AC-4R kit from The Heathkit Shop is the best answer for AC-4's that 
still have their original electrolytics.


You got lucky in that the cathode resistors opened!  Carbon comp 
resistors are pretty hard to find.  Best replacement is the Ohmite OX 
ceramic composition resistor available from Mouser and others.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B  C-Line Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com



Bill Carpenter wrote:


Bill Carpenter [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
I was enjoying SKN last night on 40M with my Bline but decided to 
switch to my K2/100 to use a more effective NB against bad powerline 
noise that has popped up here recently.  I left the Bline on and was 
happily CWing away when the Bline kind of blinked so I turned it off. 
Later I found no output at all so suspecting finals I checked them and 
yes they were bad.  I put good ones in and still no output.  There had 
been no noise, smoke or burned sound so I had not looked under the 
finals.  I did that this morning and found R32 and R33 (1 watt 15 Ohm) 
both burnt and testing very high or open.  Obviously I need to replace 
these but is there anything else I should check first to see what may 
have caused this to happen?


Any help appreciated.

Happy New Year!  73

Bill

NZ0T



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Re: [drakelist] T4B Trouble

2008-01-01 Thread Garey Barrell


Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Bill -

OK.  Those no load voltages are fine.  I'd check the rest of the path to 
the final grids.  Perhaps a bad power cable or connector wiring / short?


Typical failure scenario you described is that the bias voltage fails, 
causing the T/R relay to pull in, keying the transmitter (grounding the 
final cathodes) and with no bias the tubes conduct as much as they or 
the power supply or the cathode resistors can handle until one or the 
other opens up.


Open cathode resistors are certainly a symptom of extreme overload of 
the PA tubes.  You say the finals were bad.  How did you determine 
that they were bad. 

I guess I'm stubborn.  I still say the bias supply failed, somewhere 
between the AC line and the PA grids!  :-)


My next guess is that the Cinch connector(s) have a problem, e.g., short 
or open of the bias line.  Possibly intermittent?


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA



Bill Carpenter wrote:


Bill Carpenter [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Power supply seems OK.  Bias adjusts from -49 to -90 and voltages at 
279 and 682.  Both a little high but seem OK to me.  Anything else I 
should check before I try replacing the cathode resistors?  Gotta wait 
to order some anyway.

- Original Message - From: Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2008 10:34 AM
Subject: Re: [drakelist] T4B Trouble




Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the 
drakelist gang

--
Yep, that's it.  It's adjustable to set the idle current for the 
finals. No bias voltage = full plate current!


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B  C-Line Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com



Bill Carpenter wrote:


Bill Carpenter [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Thanks Gary, I'll look at the AC-4 though I replaced the 
electrolytics a few years ago.  Which pin is the bias measured on?  
It looks like pin  9 to me at -45 to -65 volts against pin 1 which 
is ground?


- Original Message - From: Garey Barrell 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2008 9:46 AM
Subject: Re: [drakelist] T4B Trouble




Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the 
drakelist gang

--
Bill -

Sounds like you lost the bias supply in the AC-4, electrolytics 
and/or rectifiers.  There has been some discussion of this over the 
last few weeks on here.


The AC-4R kit from The Heathkit Shop is the best answer for AC-4's 
that still have their original electrolytics.


You got lucky in that the cathode resistors opened!  Carbon comp 
resistors are pretty hard to find.  Best replacement is the Ohmite 
OX ceramic composition resistor available from Mouser and others.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B  C-Line Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com



Bill Carpenter wrote:


Bill Carpenter [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist 
gang
-- 

I was enjoying SKN last night on 40M with my Bline but decided to 
switch to my K2/100 to use a more effective NB against bad 
powerline noise that has popped up here recently.  I left the 
Bline on and was happily CWing away when the Bline kind of 
blinked so I turned it off. Later I found no output at all so 
suspecting finals I checked them and yes they were bad.  I put 
good ones in and still no output.  There had been no noise, smoke 
or burned sound so I had not looked under the finals.  I did that 
this morning and found R32 and R33 (1 watt 15 Ohm) both burnt and 
testing very high or open.  Obviously I need to replace these but 
is there anything else I should check first to see what may have 
caused this to happen?


Any help appreciated.

Happy New Year!  73

Bill

NZ0T



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[drakelist] Happy new year

2008-01-01 Thread daniel shrader
Happy new year to all 
Only make a few posts but read all of them
Was good to hear old friends on 3863 last nite
Evan. thank you for taking the Drake net for me.. This is the start of the 
14th year of it..
Danny ...WA4SDE

Re: [drakelist] T4B Trouble

2008-01-01 Thread Robert Ladden


Robert Ladden [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Did you move things around when you switched rigs? I found (the hard 
way) that it is possible for the cinch connector to get in an angle 
where the bias pin loses contact.


73,
Bob WW3QB

At 12:05 PM 1/1/2008, you wrote:


Bill Carpenter [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Power supply seems OK.  Bias adjusts from -49 to -90 and voltages at 
279 and 682.  Both a little high but seem OK to me.  Anything else I 
should check before I try replacing the cathode resistors?  Gotta 
wait to order some anyway.

- Original Message - From: Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2008 10:34 AM
Subject: Re: [drakelist] T4B Trouble




Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Yep, that's it.  It's adjustable to set the idle current for the 
finals. No bias voltage = full plate current!


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B  C-Line Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com



Bill Carpenter wrote:


Bill Carpenter [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Thanks Gary, I'll look at the AC-4 though I replaced the 
electrolytics a few years ago.  Which pin is the bias measured 
on?  It looks like pin  9 to me at -45 to -65 volts against pin 1 
which is ground?


- Original Message - From: Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2008 9:46 AM
Subject: Re: [drakelist] T4B Trouble




Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the 
drakelist gang

--
Bill -

Sounds like you lost the bias supply in the AC-4, electrolytics 
and/or rectifiers.  There has been some discussion of this over 
the last few weeks on here.


The AC-4R kit from The Heathkit Shop is the best answer for 
AC-4's that still have their original electrolytics.


You got lucky in that the cathode resistors opened!  Carbon comp 
resistors are pretty hard to find.  Best replacement is the 
Ohmite OX ceramic composition resistor available from Mouser and others.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B  C-Line Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com



Bill Carpenter wrote:


Bill Carpenter [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
I was enjoying SKN last night on 40M with my Bline but decided 
to switch to my K2/100 to use a more effective NB against bad 
powerline noise that has popped up here recently.  I left the 
Bline on and was happily CWing away when the Bline kind of 
blinked so I turned it off. Later I found no output at all so 
suspecting finals I checked them and yes they were bad.  I put 
good ones in and still no output.  There had been no noise, 
smoke or burned sound so I had not looked under the finals.  I 
did that this morning and found R32 and R33 (1 watt 15 Ohm) both 
burnt and testing very high or open.  Obviously I need to 
replace these but is there anything else I should check first to 
see what may have caused this to happen?


Any help appreciated.

Happy New Year!  73

Bill

NZ0T


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[drakelist] R4-C Filters INRAD vs Original Piezo

2008-01-01 Thread wmacleod
Hello Drakelist:

Does anyone know how the INRAD selection of 5695 KHz 2nd IF filters for the
R4C compare against the original Piezo Technology filters offered by Drake?
Would I be better off obtaining original Drake filters or going with the
INRADs. 

regards

Wade



Re: [drakelist] T4B Trouble

2008-01-01 Thread Jim F.

Jim F. [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
I see that tube bias is a big problem in these
sets.

Any chance of fusing the cathode resistors 
to would help stem the bias problem ?

Do you think a couple of cathode wired-in-series fuses
work ?

Jim


--- Bill Carpenter [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 
 Bill Carpenter [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to
 the drakelist gang

--
 I did move the T4XB to plug/unplug my straight key
 so that is a possibility. 
 Thanks for the tip and Gary I don't disagree that it
 was a bias problem. 
 I'll get new resistors and we'll see.
 - Original Message - 
 From: Robert Ladden [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2008 12:08 PM
 Subject: Re: [drakelist] T4B Trouble
 
 
 
  Robert Ladden [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an
 utterance to the drakelist gang
 

--
  Did you move things around when you switched rigs?
 I found (the hard way) 
  that it is possible for the cinch connector to get
 in an angle where the 
  bias pin loses contact.
 
  73,
  Bob WW3QB
 
  At 12:05 PM 1/1/2008, you wrote:
 
 Bill Carpenter [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance
 to the drakelist gang

--
 Power supply seems OK.  Bias adjusts from -49 to
 -90 and voltages at 279 
 and 682.  Both a little high but seem OK to me. 
 Anything else I should 
 check before I try replacing the cathode
 resistors?  Gotta wait to order 
 some anyway.
 - Original Message - From: Garey Barrell
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2008 10:34 AM
 Subject: Re: [drakelist] T4B Trouble
 
 
 
 Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an
 utterance to the drakelist 
 gang

--
 Yep, that's it.  It's adjustable to set the idle
 current for the finals. 
 No bias voltage = full plate current!
 
 73, Garey - K4OAH
 Glen Allen, VA
 
 Drake 2-B, 4-B  C-Line Service Supplement CDs
 www.k4oah.com
 
 
 
 Bill Carpenter wrote:
 
 Bill Carpenter [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an
 utterance to the drakelist gang

--
 Thanks Gary, I'll look at the AC-4 though I
 replaced the electrolytics a 
 few years ago.  Which pin is the bias measured
 on?  It looks like pin  9 
 to me at -45 to -65 volts against pin 1 which is
 ground?
 
 - Original Message - From: Garey
 Barrell 
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2008 9:46 AM
 Subject: Re: [drakelist] T4B Trouble
 
 
 
 Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an
 utterance to the drakelist 
 gang

--
 Bill -
 
 Sounds like you lost the bias supply in the
 AC-4, electrolytics and/or 
 rectifiers.  There has been some discussion of
 this over the last few 
 weeks on here.
 
 The AC-4R kit from The Heathkit Shop is the
 best answer for AC-4's that 
 still have their original electrolytics.
 
 You got lucky in that the cathode resistors
 opened!  Carbon comp 
 resistors are pretty hard to find.  Best
 replacement is the Ohmite OX 
 ceramic composition resistor available from
 Mouser and others.
 
 73, Garey - K4OAH
 Glen Allen, VA
 
 Drake 2-B, 4-B  C-Line Service Supplement CDs
 www.k4oah.com
 
 
 
 Bill Carpenter wrote:
 
 Bill Carpenter [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an
 utterance to the drakelist 
 gang

--
 I was enjoying SKN last night on 40M with my
 Bline but decided to 
 switch to my K2/100 to use a more effective NB
 against bad powerline 
 noise that has popped up here recently.  I
 left the Bline on and was 
 happily CWing away when the Bline kind of
 blinked so I turned it 
 off. Later I found no output at all so
 suspecting finals I checked 
 them and yes they were bad.  I put good ones
 in and still no output. 
 There had been no noise, smoke or burned sound
 so I had not looked 
 under the finals.  I did that this morning and
 found R32 and R33 (1 
 watt 15 Ohm) both burnt and testing very high
 or open.  Obviously I 
 need to replace these but is there anything
 else I should check first 
 to see what may have caused this to happen?
 
 Any help appreciated.
 
 Happy New Year!  73
 
 Bill
 
 NZ0T
 

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 Unsubscribe:[EMAIL PROTECTED] -
 unsubscribe drakelist in 
 body
 Hopelessly Lost:[EMAIL PROTECTED] -
 help in body of message
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 sponsored by www.tlchost.net

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Re: [drakelist] T4B Trouble

2008-01-01 Thread Bill Carpenter


Bill Carpenter [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
I tested the tubes on my tube tester.  I know this is not always conclusive 
but the meter on the tester did not move at all on either tube.
- Original Message - 
From: Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2008 11:31 AM
Subject: Re: [drakelist] T4B Trouble




Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist 
gang

--
Bill -

OK.  Those no load voltages are fine.  I'd check the rest of the path to 
the final grids.  Perhaps a bad power cable or connector wiring / short?


Typical failure scenario you described is that the bias voltage fails, 
causing the T/R relay to pull in, keying the transmitter (grounding the 
final cathodes) and with no bias the tubes conduct as much as they or the 
power supply or the cathode resistors can handle until one or the other 
opens up.


Open cathode resistors are certainly a symptom of extreme overload of the 
PA tubes.  You say the finals were bad.  How did you determine that they 
were bad.
I guess I'm stubborn.  I still say the bias supply failed, somewhere 
between the AC line and the PA grids!  :-)


My next guess is that the Cinch connector(s) have a problem, e.g., short 
or open of the bias line.  Possibly intermittent?


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA



Bill Carpenter wrote:


Bill Carpenter [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Power supply seems OK.  Bias adjusts from -49 to -90 and voltages at 279 
and 682.  Both a little high but seem OK to me.  Anything else I should 
check before I try replacing the cathode resistors?  Gotta wait to order 
some anyway.

- Original Message - From: Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2008 10:34 AM
Subject: Re: [drakelist] T4B Trouble




Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist 
gang

--
Yep, that's it.  It's adjustable to set the idle current for the finals. 
No bias voltage = full plate current!


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B  C-Line Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com



Bill Carpenter wrote:


Bill Carpenter [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Thanks Gary, I'll look at the AC-4 though I replaced the electrolytics 
a few years ago.  Which pin is the bias measured on?  It looks like pin 
9 to me at -45 to -65 volts against pin 1 which is ground?


- Original Message - From: Garey Barrell 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2008 9:46 AM
Subject: Re: [drakelist] T4B Trouble




Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the 
drakelist gang

--
Bill -

Sounds like you lost the bias supply in the AC-4, electrolytics and/or 
rectifiers.  There has been some discussion of this over the last few 
weeks on here.


The AC-4R kit from The Heathkit Shop is the best answer for AC-4's 
that still have their original electrolytics.


You got lucky in that the cathode resistors opened!  Carbon comp 
resistors are pretty hard to find.  Best replacement is the Ohmite OX 
ceramic composition resistor available from Mouser and others.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B  C-Line Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com



Bill Carpenter wrote:


Bill Carpenter [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist 
gang

--

I was enjoying SKN last night on 40M with my Bline but decided to 
switch to my K2/100 to use a more effective NB against bad powerline 
noise that has popped up here recently.  I left the Bline on and was 
happily CWing away when the Bline kind of blinked so I turned it 
off. Later I found no output at all so suspecting finals I checked 
them and yes they were bad.  I put good ones in and still no output. 
There had been no noise, smoke or burned sound so I had not looked 
under the finals.  I did that this morning and found R32 and R33 (1 
watt 15 Ohm) both burnt and testing very high or open.  Obviously I 
need to replace these but is there anything else I should check first 
to see what may have caused this to happen?


Any help appreciated.

Happy New Year!  73

Bill

NZ0T



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Re: [drakelist] R4-C Filters INRAD vs Original Piezo

2008-01-01 Thread Garey Barrell


Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Wade -

The Drake filters are generally fine, and if you can save some money 
while getting GOOD Drake filters, they should cost about half of what 
the Inrad filters cost.  The vast majority of the Drake filters still 
meet their specifications.


That said, the Inrads are better filters.  They had the benefit of 25 
years of technology improvement, and much more powerful computers, 
resulting in smoother passband among other things. 


Obviously they are also 25 years younger, and crystals DO age over time.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B  C-Line Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com



wmacleod wrote:


Hello Drakelist:

Does anyone know how the INRAD selection of 5695 KHz 2^nd IF filters 
for the R4C compare against the original Piezo Technology filters 
offered by Drake? Would I be better off obtaining original Drake 
filters or going with the INRADs.


regards

Wade

  


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Re: [drakelist] T4B Trouble

2008-01-01 Thread Garey Barrell


Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Bill -

OK, just curious.  They can fail completely, yet still light.

As someone else noted, given just the right set of circumstances it is 
possible for the bias pin of the Cinch connector to lose contact with 
its mate while still maintaining Plate, Screen and Filament voltage to 
the PA.  The pins are all identical in length, but Murphy has a lot to 
do with those sorts of things!  :-)  The internal connections on the 
cable connector and the terminals on the chassis side are very close 
together, and the bias supply is high impedance, so it is possible to 
short the bias long enough to cause a failure without killing the supply 
itself.


It'll be interesting to know what you find!

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA



Bill Carpenter wrote:


Bill Carpenter [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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I tested the tubes on my tube tester.  I know this is not always 
conclusive but the meter on the tester did not move at all on either 
tube.

- Original Message - From: Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2008 11:31 AM
Subject: Re: [drakelist] T4B Trouble




Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the 
drakelist gang

--
Bill -

OK.  Those no load voltages are fine.  I'd check the rest of the path 
to the final grids.  Perhaps a bad power cable or connector wiring / 
short?


Typical failure scenario you described is that the bias voltage 
fails, causing the T/R relay to pull in, keying the transmitter 
(grounding the final cathodes) and with no bias the tubes conduct as 
much as they or the power supply or the cathode resistors can handle 
until one or the other opens up.


Open cathode resistors are certainly a symptom of extreme overload of 
the PA tubes.  You say the finals were bad.  How did you determine 
that they were bad.
I guess I'm stubborn.  I still say the bias supply failed, somewhere 
between the AC line and the PA grids!  :-)


My next guess is that the Cinch connector(s) have a problem, e.g., 
short or open of the bias line.  Possibly intermittent?


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA



Bill Carpenter wrote:


Bill Carpenter [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Power supply seems OK.  Bias adjusts from -49 to -90 and voltages at 
279 and 682.  Both a little high but seem OK to me.  Anything else I 
should check before I try replacing the cathode resistors?  Gotta 
wait to order some anyway.
- Original Message - From: Garey Barrell 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2008 10:34 AM
Subject: Re: [drakelist] T4B Trouble




Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the 
drakelist gang

--
Yep, that's it.  It's adjustable to set the idle current for the 
finals. No bias voltage = full plate current!


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B  C-Line Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com



Bill Carpenter wrote:


Bill Carpenter [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist 
gang
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Thanks Gary, I'll look at the AC-4 though I replaced the 
electrolytics a few years ago.  Which pin is the bias measured 
on?  It looks like pin 9 to me at -45 to -65 volts against pin 1 
which is ground?


- Original Message - From: Garey Barrell 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2008 9:46 AM
Subject: Re: [drakelist] T4B Trouble




Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the 
drakelist gang
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Bill -

Sounds like you lost the bias supply in the AC-4, electrolytics 
and/or rectifiers.  There has been some discussion of this over 
the last few weeks on here.


The AC-4R kit from The Heathkit Shop is the best answer for 
AC-4's that still have their original electrolytics.


You got lucky in that the cathode resistors opened!  Carbon comp 
resistors are pretty hard to find.  Best replacement is the 
Ohmite OX ceramic composition resistor available from Mouser and 
others.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B  C-Line Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com



Bill Carpenter wrote:


Bill Carpenter [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the 
drakelist gang
-- 



I was enjoying SKN last night on 40M with my Bline but decided 
to switch to my K2/100 to use a more effective NB against bad 
powerline noise that has popped up here recently.  I left the 
Bline on and was 

Re: [drakelist] Starting on my TR-3

2008-01-01 Thread Gary Poland


Gary Poland [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Paper towels, cotton swabs, and Windex. 


73, Gary W8PU
http://home.cinci.rr.com/w8pu



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Re: [drakelist] Starting on my TR-3

2008-01-01 Thread john


john [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Yep...leave the steam cleaner for the car... Cotton balls manuvered with 
some tweezers and Qtips will do a much better job without wrecking things. 
Yes, I know Tektronix did it, but this isn't Tek gear, and it isn't the 
70's anymore. Take your time and enjoy learning what's in your rig as you 
carefully clean it.  You'd be surprised the things you see merely by 
carefully cleaning your gear the slow and deliberate way.  I like lighter 
fluid on cotton ball swabs  (unlit) :-)


Enjoy your TR3...it's a really great SSB rig

John K5MO




At 04:28 PM 1/1/2008, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
The biggest question I have is how to best clean the chassis.

Having now done a TR4  a TR4C
Q tips and rubbing alcohol  denatured alcohol also works but might 
lift a marginal tube number decal.

Carl Hibbard  WD8NHK





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See AOL's 
http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop000304top rated 
recipes and 
http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aoltop000303easy 
 ways to stay in shape for winter.



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Re: [drakelist] R4-C Filters INRAD vs Original Piezo

2008-01-01 Thread Chuck Grandgent
Garey (OK, I just recently picked up that we have both a Garey and a Gary
here, I'm pretty slow :),

HOW do the crystals age ?  Is it the mechanicals inside or just what ?

   Chuck, K1OM

On Jan 1, 2008 3:52 PM, Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist
 gang
 --
 Wade -

 The Drake filters are generally fine, and if you can save some money
 while getting GOOD Drake filters, they should cost about half of what
 the Inrad filters cost.  The vast majority of the Drake filters still
 meet their specifications.

 That said, the Inrads are better filters.  They had the benefit of 25
 years of technology improvement, and much more powerful computers,
 resulting in smoother passband among other things.

 Obviously they are also 25 years younger, and crystals DO age over time.

 73, Garey - K4OAH
 Glen Allen, VA

 Drake 2-B, 4-B  C-Line Service Supplement CDs
 www.k4oah.com



 wmacleod wrote:
 
  Hello Drakelist:
 
  Does anyone know how the INRAD selection of 5695 KHz 2^nd IF filters
  for the R4C compare against the original Piezo Technology filters
  offered by Drake? Would I be better off obtaining original Drake
  filters or going with the INRADs.
 
  regards
 
  Wade
 
 

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Re: [drakelist] RV7 jumping frequency

2008-01-01 Thread K9SQG

[EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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As an addendum, I've experienced such problems on several rigs due to a 
ground connection that was intermittant, going high resistance, etc.
**See AOL's top rated recipes 
(http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop000304)

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Re: [drakelist] R4-C Filters INRAD vs Original Piezo

2008-01-01 Thread Garey Barrell


Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
You think YOU have problems.  I have a very hard time typing Gary!!  :-)

All crystals change with age.  There are many factors, but a few are 
adsorbing (or releasing) contaminants that were trapped at manufacture, 
different coefficients of mounting materials, possibly even flaking off 
particles of quartz, stress relief in mounting structures, and on and 
on..  Aging is akin to drift, in that both result in the frequency 
of oscillation changing over time.  Like drift, it can go in either 
direction. 

Aside from all the handwaving, I think the biggest source is lack of 
cleanliness in manufacturing.  Obviously cleanliness costs money, and 
the bargain crystal makers seem to cut that expense first.  Probably 
because it doesn't show up for years, and is therefore not their 
problem.  :-)


You'll find band crystals in Drake (AND Collins) equipment that are 
several kHz off frequency after 20 -30 years.  Even with the best of 
manufacturing processes crystals still age, just at a slower rate.  
Typical aging for quality crystals can still be in the range of 5-10 
ppm/year (5 -10 Hz per year) which is plenty good enough for our uses.


Anyway, when the 4-8 crystals in a crystal filter start changing 
frequency at random, all sorts of bad things happen to the passband.  
Usually excessive ripple in the passband is the first to suffer.  
Insertion loss goes up (think of multiple IF stages that are tuned to 
different frequencies rather than all on the same frequency), etc.  In 
severe cases (say a chunk of flux finally breaks off of a crystal 
element!) a big notch or peak can show up in or outside of the passband


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA



Chuck Grandgent wrote:
Garey (OK, I just recently picked up that we have both a Garey and a 
Gary here, I'm pretty slow :),


HOW do the crystals age ?  Is it the mechanicals inside or just what ?

   Chuck, K1OM

On Jan 1, 2008 3:52 PM, Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



Garey Barrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Wade -

The Drake filters are generally fine, and if you can save some money
while getting GOOD Drake filters, they should cost about half of what
the Inrad filters cost.  The vast majority of the Drake filters still
meet their specifications.

That said, the Inrads are better filters.  They had the benefit of 25
years of technology improvement, and much more powerful computers,
resulting in smoother passband among other things.

Obviously they are also 25 years younger, and crystals DO age
over time.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B  C-Line Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com http://www.k4oah.com



wmacleod wrote:

 Hello Drakelist:

 Does anyone know how the INRAD selection of 5695 KHz 2^nd IF filters
 for the R4C compare against the original Piezo Technology filters
 offered by Drake? Would I be better off obtaining original Drake
 filters or going with the INRADs.

 regards

 Wade






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[drakelist] Need Soldering tips for Wen 75 soldering pistol

2008-01-01 Thread Jim Pruitt

Jim Pruitt [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Since QTH lists do not seem to want to let me post this,  I wonder if anyone
on this list can help me?

Does anyone know of a source for soldering tips for a Wen model 75 soldering
pistol?  It is a 75 watt gun?  I am in need of one (or more).  I know that
Wen discontinued the gun (and I assume the tips too) several years ago.

I am working on my R4B and my tip broke.  Now I find out that the tips do
not seem to be available anywhere.

Thank you.

Jim Pruitt


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Re: [drakelist] Need Soldering tips for Wen 75 soldering pistol

2008-01-01 Thread Dennis Monticelli

Dennis Monticelli [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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I don't know, Jim, but I am also interested in a source for tips
because I have a Wen 75 as my backup iron.  You may have to find a
parts unit.

On Jan 1, 2008 9:52 PM, Jim Pruitt [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Jim Pruitt [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
 --
 Since QTH lists do not seem to want to let me post this,  I wonder if anyone
 on this list can help me?

 Does anyone know of a source for soldering tips for a Wen model 75 soldering
 pistol?  It is a 75 watt gun?  I am in need of one (or more).  I know that
 Wen discontinued the gun (and I assume the tips too) several years ago.

 I am working on my R4B and my tip broke.  Now I find out that the tips do
 not seem to be available anywhere.

 Thank you.

 Jim Pruitt


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