Re: [Drakelist] Drake PTO (Yet Again!)
Eddy - Yes, the yoke is directly connected to the slug, and therefore very susceptible to ANY movement. This is the reason for the spring to the shield can, i.e., keep everything 'solidly' engaged. Maybe just a weak spring? It should take a definite effort to stretch the spring to hook it. Also any dirt or corrosion on the rider bar can cause 'bumps'. It should be 'clean and dry'.. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Eddy Swynar wrote: Hi Guys, To-day I had occasion to take the top cover off of my T-4X transmitter, examine the PTO mechanics a bit... Question: how normal is it for the frequency to jump jiggle whenever even the lightest of physical force is applied to the yoke...? Is this expected, or should the frequency stay put no matter what, i.e. there should be no slack / sloppiness in the assembly...? I noticed a bit of play in the yoke of my PTO---enough that if I applied even just a modicum of pressure from a wooden chopstick, I could jiggle the frequency. Does this indicate that something is, indeed, loose in mine in need of tightening, or all they all like this...? The jiggle in my PTO sounds a LOT like the jiggle than I can induce with manual pressure---maybe the key to our woes in this regard has a MECHANICAL solution, rather than an electronic one...? I'm gonna remove the PTO cover, the circuit board itself, as my next step. Maybe I'll be able to see something therein that requires tightening...I don't know. ~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drake PTO (Yet Again!)
Hi Garey, Well, it definitely does NOT take a heckuva lot of effort to pull that spring on my PTO. To-day I disconnected the spring entirely had to apply pressure to the OTHER side of the yoke to make the frequency jiggle---so I guess it's doing its job, alright, maintaining some modicum of pressure on the yoke... Yes, the more I get into this thing, the more I can see where even one weak link in the MECHANICAL chain of things can cause no end of electronic vexation! I think Ill give the sliders riders on mine a good bath in isopropyl rubbing alcohol next---that'd be far easier to do than dis-mantling the works, and as I said before, the solution is probably just oh-so-easy that it's staring me in the face... ~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ On 2011-08-01, at 9:59 AM, Garey Barrell wrote: Eddy - Yes, the yoke is directly connected to the slug, and therefore very susceptible to ANY movement. This is the reason for the spring to the shield can, i.e., keep everything 'solidly' engaged. Maybe just a weak spring? It should take a definite effort to stretch the spring to hook it. Also any dirt or corrosion on the rider bar can cause 'bumps'. It should be 'clean and dry'.. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Eddy Swynar wrote: Hi Guys, To-day I had occasion to take the top cover off of my T-4X transmitter, examine the PTO mechanics a bit... Question: how normal is it for the frequency to jump jiggle whenever even the lightest of physical force is applied to the yoke...? Is this expected, or should the frequency stay put no matter what, i.e. there should be no slack / sloppiness in the assembly...? I noticed a bit of play in the yoke of my PTO---enough that if I applied even just a modicum of pressure from a wooden chopstick, I could jiggle the frequency. Does this indicate that something is, indeed, loose in mine in need of tightening, or all they all like this...? The jiggle in my PTO sounds a LOT like the jiggle than I can induce with manual pressure---maybe the key to our woes in this regard has a MECHANICAL solution, rather than an electronic one...? I'm gonna remove the PTO cover, the circuit board itself, as my next step. Maybe I'll be able to see something therein that requires tightening...I don't know. ~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Drake PTO (Yet Again!)
Eddy - I'm having trouble describing the amount of effort required to hook that spring. You really don't have to brace your feet against the chassis to pull it (!), but it should not just sort of fall into place either. A little common sense is required, pulling on the yoke and letting it snap back into place is the best test. The bottom of the yoke is on the drive screw, the spring is on the top, and the slug attaches to the middle, so there is a certain amount of lever effect. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Eddy Swynar wrote: Hi Garey, Well, it definitely does NOT take a heckuva lot of effort to pull that spring on my PTO. To-day I disconnected the spring entirely had to apply pressure to the OTHER side of the yoke to make the frequency jiggle---so I guess it's doing its job, alright, maintaining some modicum of pressure on the yoke... Yes, the more I get into this thing, the more I can see where even one weak link in the MECHANICAL chain of things can cause no end of electronic vexation! I think Ill give the sliders riders on mine a good bath in isopropyl rubbing alcohol next---that'd be far easier to do than dis-mantling the works, and as I said before, the solution is probably just oh-so-easy that it's staring me in the face... ~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ On 2011-08-01, at 9:59 AM, Garey Barrell wrote: Eddy - Yes, the yoke is directly connected to the slug, and therefore very susceptible to ANY movement. This is the reason for the spring to the shield can, i.e., keep everything 'solidly' engaged. Maybe just a weak spring? It should take a definite effort to stretch the spring to hook it. Also any dirt or corrosion on the rider bar can cause 'bumps'. It should be 'clean and dry'.. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Eddy Swynar wrote: Hi Guys, To-day I had occasion to take the top cover off of my T-4X transmitter, examine the PTO mechanics a bit... Question: how normal is it for the frequency to jump jiggle whenever even the lightest of physical force is applied to the yoke...? Is this expected, or should the frequency stay put no matter what, i.e. there should be no slack / sloppiness in the assembly...? I noticed a bit of play in the yoke of my PTO---enough that if I applied even just a modicum of pressure from a wooden chopstick, I could jiggle the frequency. Does this indicate that something is, indeed, loose in mine in need of tightening, or all they all like this...? The jiggle in my PTO sounds a LOT like the jiggle than I can induce with manual pressure---maybe the key to our woes in this regard has a MECHANICAL solution, rather than an electronic one...? I'm gonna remove the PTO cover, the circuit board itself, as my next step. Maybe I'll be able to see something therein that requires tightening...I don't know. ~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] R4B T4XB hook up question
*Gentlemen, I have a R4B T4XB combo that I have had for many years and have never used except for the R4B. Now that I'm playing with my Drakes again I have decided to use them or at least try. Would it be better to buy the injection and other cables or make my own, if so what would be the best cable to use and what are the length's. Where would be the best place to get them, I see some advertised on Ebay. Any help would as always be **appreciated, and of course some of you know I'm Dumb as a Rock on some of this, but I'm a Happy Rock!! * Thanks Woody -- * * * If you forward this e-mail, please delete the forwarding history, which includes my email address. It is a courtesy to me and to others who do not wish to have their e-mail addresses sent all over the world. * * * * ** If you are including me in a multi-address email*,* please use the** Bcc **feature.** * *Thanks* * * ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] R4B T4XB hook up question
Woody, You can use whichever approach is attractive to you. Just remember, the injection cable must be a low capacity cable, I believe Drake used a 91 ohm low capacity cable; might want to check the experts on this one. If you have good soldering skills, you can make your own. Or if you prefer, premade cables can be obtained at the WB4HFN website and elsewhere. Welcome back to Drakes! 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: Woody ko4...@gmail.com To: Drakelist Drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, Aug 1, 2011 8:11 am Subject: [Drakelist] R4B T4XB hook up question Gentlemen, I have a R4B T4XB combo that I have had for many years and have never used except for the R4B. Now that I'm playing with my Drakes again I have decided to use them or at least try. Would it be better to buy the injection and other cables or make my own, if so what would be the best cable to use and what are the length's. Where would be the best place to get them, I see some advertised on Ebay. Any help would as always be appreciated, and of course some of you know I'm Dumb as a Rock on some of this, but I'm a Happy Rock!! Thanks Woody -- If you forward this e-mail, please delete the forwarding history, which includes my email address. It is a courtesy to me and to others who do not wish to have their e-mail addresses sent all over the world. If you are including me in a multi-address email, please use the Bcc feature. Thanks ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] R4B T4XB hook up question
Woody - All original cables were 38 long tip-to-tip. The INJ, (and CAR OSC in the C-Line, cables used a foam inner dielectric and phono connectors with a white insulation. This cable measures 60 pF total capacity. All other cables used the standard for the day clear polyethelene inner dielectric and phenolic (brown) insulated phono connectors and measure ~100 pF. Original Drake INJ and CAR OSC Cables = 19 pF/ft = .160 o.d. (foam poly) RG-62 = 93R = 13.5 pF/ft = 0.240 o.d. RG-59 = 75R = 14.8 pF/ft = 0.242 o.d. RG-6 = 75R = 16.2 pF/ft = 0.270 o.d. RG-174= 50R = 30.8 pF/ft = 0.110 o.d. Mic Cable (Belden 8410) = Hi-Z = 33 pf/ft = 0.160 o.d. (foam poly) Mic Cable (Belden 8421) = Hi-Z = 16 pf/ft = 0.180 o.d. (foam poly) R/S Audio Patch Cable = 28 pF/ft = 0.165 o.d. (poly) The best choice is the Belden 8421 Audio cable from their Brilliance line. It looks just like the other cables, and is very flexible. The RG-62 is OK, but it is 50% larger and far less flexible. RG-62 is also prone to shorting if bent over too small a radius, and is susceptible to heat damage when soldering connectors. The best feature of RG-62 is that it is often FREE, since there have been many miles of it pulled out of old computer networks. Belden 8421 is available by the foot from ACK Electronics in Atlanta. Other distributors have it as well, although many require purchase of a full spool. N7IOH, another list member, had some at one time that he was selling by the foot. The only pertinent factor is the total capacity. Impedance and loss are not important. Any _reasonably low capacity_ coax will work if the units are cabled together for the adjustment of the INJ trimmers. The cable type ONLY affects the LEVEL of the PreMix signal, (5.645 MHz ABOVE the transmit/receive frequency,) and a small DC control voltage between the two. If the shunt capacity is too high, insufficient LO level for the first mixer will reduce the sensitivity of the receiver and the output power of the transmitter. Some of the commercial cable mfrs use RG-59A, but it's a little larger and also prone to shorting if bent over too tight a radius. The ANT lead to the receiver is too short to matter, but you want good shield integrity, which usually eliminates R/S cables. The best connectors I've found are the Switchcraft 3502 plugs, available from just about anyone, Digikey, Mouser, Allied, Newark and just about any reputable parts place. 73, Garey - K4OAH Glen Allen, VA Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs www.k4oah.com Woody wrote: /Gentlemen, I have a R4B T4XB combo that I have had for many years and have never used except for the R4B. Now that I'm playing with my Drakes again I have decided to use them or at least try. Would it be better to buy the injection and other cables or make my own, if so what would be the best cable to use and what are the length's. Where would be the best place to get them, I see some advertised on Ebay. Any help would as always be //appreciated, and of course some of you know I'm Dumb as a Rock on some of this, but I'm a Happy Rock!! / Thanks Woody -- __ *If you forward this e-mail, please delete the forwarding history, which includes my email address. It is a courtesy to me and to others who do not wish to have their e-mail addresses sent all over the world. * ** ***If you are including me in a multi-address email*,* please use the*/*Bcc */*feature.*** *Thanks* * * ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] R4B T4XB hook up question
Woody, I think you have the details on the cable..NOW one other thing. IF your AC-4 power supply for the T4X-B has NOT been rebuilt, that is something I really recommend. Most of those are very old now and need some TLC. If you are skilled at electronics and especially power supplys and HV...you can use the Heathkit shop kit to do this yourself. IF you are not I would have it done by a experienced Drake guy. 73, Lee Lee Simmonds Summit DCS LLC 260-799-4077 Office 260-403-6936 Cell -Original Message- From: Woody ko4...@gmail.com To: Drakelist Drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Mon, Aug 1, 2011 12:11 pm Subject: [Drakelist] R4B T4XB hook up question Gentlemen, I have a R4B T4XB combo that I have had for many years and have never used except for the R4B. Now that I'm playing with my Drakes again I have decided to use them or at least try. Would it be better to buy the injection and other cables or make my own, if so what would be the best cable to use and what are the length's. Where would be the best place to get them, I see some advertised on Ebay. Any help would as always be appreciated, and of course some of you know I'm Dumb as a Rock on some of this, but I'm a Happy Rock!! Thanks Woody -- If you forward this e-mail, please delete the forwarding history, which includes my email address. It is a courtesy to me and to others who do not wish to have their e-mail addresses sent all over the world. If you are including me in a multi-address email, please use the Bcc feature. Thanks ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
