Re: [Drakelist] You just know I'm not going to have any hair left...

[Steve Wedge]

Yeah and that was the strange thing: I see the filter INSIDE the PTO (i.e., 
inside the dashed lines of the PTO assembly) on the T-4XB schematic.  I haven't 
checked the T-4X yet.  The R-4B has the filter on one of the external boards 
under the chassis.  It just strikes me as funny that they wouldn't have 
standardized the PTO amongst the transmitter and receiver for any given time 
period.

I'm stopping by my club room today to borrow the parts cabinets.  I'm going to 
really need them when I start work on the R-4B...

73,

Steve, W1ES/4

-Original Message-
From: Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com
Sent: Aug 21, 2011 10:20 PM
To: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net, drakelist Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] You just know I'm not going to have any hair left...

Steve -

NONE of the T-4X(any) had the low-pass filter on the output of the PTO.  Only 
the receivers used the 
filter, and only in version 2 of the R-4A and up.

It would be OK to just bypass the LP filter in the receiver for testing 
purposes.   Also, don't 
gloss over the possibility of a bad, (cracked?), or just noisy resistor at 
R49.  Or even poor solder 
on those associated connections.

Also, don't overlook the possibility of erratic or intermittent operation of 
the BAND oscillator 
(listen at 18.1 MHz on 40M).

Possible other resistors associated with V8 are noisy.  Since you have no 
jitter in TRANSCEIVE (XMTR 
control) the problem is in the BAND, PTO or PreMixer, as these are all 
disabled in XMTR mode.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Steve Wedge wrote:
 I'm going to have to look again.  I did swap the VR tube.

 Something Garey mentioned made me check the T-4XB schematic.  If that 
 schematic is accurate, Drake 
 put the filter inside the PTO at some point or just for the T-4XB.  I'm 
 suspecting this was done 
 for all PTO's at some point, as I couldn't imagine Drake building different 
 versions of the PTO at 
 the same time (of course, not everything follows what I or anyone else would 
 consider 
 logical...).  This could allow me to try temporarily bypassing the filter 
 board.  I did notice 
 that shielded cable went directly to the PTO when I removed it.  Given these 
 differences, it also 
 looks like I'll be ripping the receiver apart (again!) to put the original 
 PTO back in.

 Arrrgh...


 Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

 I can't complain, but sometimes I still do.
 - Joe Walsh

 If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop!
 - Original Message - From: kc9...@aol.com
 To: w1es1...@earthlink.net
 Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2011 6:11 PM
 Subject: Re: [Drakelist] You just know I'm not going to have any hair left...


 Did you put a scope on the voltage to the PTO and watch it carefully?
 As it fails?
 73,
 Lee, KC9CDT



 -Original Message-
 From: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.net
 To: Eddy Swynar deswy...@xplornet.ca
 Cc: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Sent: Sun, Aug 21, 2011 5:30 pm
 Subject: Re: [Drakelist] You just know I'm not going to have any hair
 left...


 That's the thing: it's a different PTO that was working properly before
 I transplanted it.

 Looks like I've got to try replacing the components on the filter
 board. Something is pulling the frequency...

 Steve Wedge, W1ES/4



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Re: [Drakelist] You just know I'm not going to have any hair left...

[Steve Wedge]

I didn't think you could get that stuff anymore but am pleasantly surprised that Amazon has several different products that will do the job. I'm thinking, however, that Petco might have it, as I noticed that what appears to be the identical product - with a different label - is marketed to dog owners who use it to freeze "messes" prior to picking them up :-)
Steve W1ES/4
-Original Message- From: Dennis Monticelli Sent: Aug 22, 2011 12:37 AM To: k4...@mindspring.com Cc: Steve Wedge , drakelist Subject: Re: [Drakelist] You just know I'm not going to have any hair left... 
If the problem is an intermittant connection somewhere (i.e. a bad solder joint) the point application of heat or cold can change the problem (either aggravate or improve) thus allowing you to isolate the troublesome region. Have you tried the point application of cold spray? Often those cans come with a needle tip.

Dennis AE6C
On Sun, Aug 21, 2011 at 7:20 PM, Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com wrote:
Steve -NONE of the T-4X(any) had the low-pass filter on the output of the PTO. Only the receivers used the filter, and only in version 2 of the R-4A and up.It would be OK to just bypass the LP filter in the receiver for testing purposes.  Also, don't gloss over the possibility of a bad, (cracked?), or just noisy resistor at R49. Or even poor solder on those associated connections.Also, don't overlook the possibility of erratic or intermittent operation of the BAND oscillator (listen at 18.1 MHz on 40M).Possible other resistors associated with V8 are noisy. Since you have no jitter in TRANSCEIVE (XMTR control) the problem is in the BAND, PTO or PreMixer, as these are all disabled in XMTR mode. 
73, Garey - K4OAHGlen Allen, VADrake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Lineand TR-4/C Service Supplement CDswww.k4oah.comSteve Wedge wrote:



I'm going to have to look again. I did swap the VR tube.Something Garey mentioned made me check the T-4XB schematic. If that schematic is accurate, Drake put the filter inside the PTO at some point or just for the T-4XB. I'm suspecting this was done for all PTO's at some point, as I couldn't imagine Drake building different versions of the PTO at the same time (of course, not everything follows what I or anyone else would consider logical...). This could allow me to try temporarily bypassing the filter board. I did notice that shielded cable went directly to the PTO when I removed it. Given these differences, it also looks like I'll be ripping the receiver apart (again!) to put the original PTO back in.Arrrgh...Steve Wedge, W1ES/4"I can't complain, but sometimes I still do."- Joe WalshIf the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop!- Original Message - From: kc9...@aol.comTo: w1es1...@earthlink.netSent: Sunday, August 21, 2011 6:11 PMSubject: Re: [Drakelist] You just know I'm not going to have any hair left...Did you put a scope on the voltage to the PTO and watch it carefully?As it fails?73,Lee, KC9CDT-Original Message-From: Steve Wedge w1es1...@earthlink.netTo: Eddy Swynar deswy...@xplornet.caCc: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.netSent: Sun, Aug 21, 2011 5:30 pmSubject: Re: [Drakelist] You just know I'm not going to have any hairleft...That's the thing: it's a different PTO that was working properly beforeI transplanted it.Looks like I've got to try replacing the components on the filterboard. Something is pulling the frequency...Steve Wedge, W1ES/4


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Re: [Drakelist] You just know I'm not going to have any hair left...

[Eddy Swynar]

Hi Steve et al,

Well, not to make light of your situation there or anything, but I just came up 
from the shack  the T-4X PTO continues to sound just as smooth as silk. In 
fact I'm thinking of putting the top cover back onto it  using it again on the 
air...

Maybe if I taunt it enough like this, daring the PTO to ...get jiggly, 
it'll behave itself! Hi Hi. Yes, I know, that's stupid---but I'd swear 
sometimes that these things have minds all their own.: )

~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ








On 2011-08-21, at 5:16 PM, Eddy Swynar wrote:

 Hi Steve,
 
 Well, I'm almost hesitant to say this, but ever since I re-soldered that 
 connection of the 33-pfd. temperature compensating tubular capacitor in the 
 PTO of my T-4X transmitter, I have not---FINGERS CROSSED!---experienced 
 anymore warbling of my signal...
 
 ...In fact, I just checked it again a couple of hours ago. Still sounds A-OK.
 
 Now, that is NOT to say that the situation is 100% cured---I know better than 
 to publicly proclaim anything like that, having been burned so many times 
 in the past! Hi Hi.
 
 Best get that ailing PTO into a mailing container  ship it POSTE HASTE to 
 Garey first-thing Monday morning, for his evaluation of the doggone thing 
 (and to think that I once thought that only my old Heathkit SB-102 was the 
 proverbial ...rig from hell!).   : )
 
 ~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ
 
 
 
 
 
 
 On 2011-08-21, at 4:57 PM, Steve Wedge wrote:
 
 Turned the R-4A on, with the replacement PTO from the T-4XB, and I am back 
 to square one. :-(
  
 The frequency is jumping all over, occasionally chirps, then un-chirps.
  
 Any suggestions aside from selling it cheap?
  
 Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
  
 I can't complain, but sometimes I still do.
 - Joe Walsh
  
 If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop!
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Re: [Drakelist] You just know I'm not going to have any hair left...

[Garey Barrell]

Dennis -

The best troubleshooting tool around for 'intermittent' problems.  We used to be able to buy Freon 
in cans that was the best and coldest, but no more.  The stuff sold today isn't quite as fast, but 
works.  A 'tiny' Freon shot would form frost on a part!!   :-)


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Dennis Monticelli wrote:
If the problem is an intermittant connection somewhere (i.e. a bad solder joint) the point 
application of heat or cold can change the problem (either aggravate or improve) thus allowing you 
to isolate the troublesome region.  Have you tried the point application of cold spray?  Often 
those cans come with a needle tip.

Dennis AE6C

On Sun, Aug 21, 2011 at 7:20 PM, Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com 
mailto:k4...@mindspring.com wrote:


Steve -

NONE of the T-4X(any) had the low-pass filter on the output of the PTO.  
Only the receivers
used the filter, and only in version 2 of the R-4A and up.

It would be OK to just bypass the LP filter in the receiver for testing 
purposes.   Also,
don't gloss over the possibility of a bad, (cracked?), or just noisy 
resistor at R49.  Or even
poor solder on those associated connections.

Also, don't overlook the possibility of erratic or intermittent operation 
of the BAND
oscillator (listen at 18.1 MHz on 40M).

Possible other resistors associated with V8 are noisy.  Since you have no 
jitter in TRANSCEIVE
(XMTR control) the problem is in the BAND, PTO or PreMixer, as these are 
all disabled in XMTR
mode.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com http://www.k4oah.com/


Steve Wedge wrote:

I'm going to have to look again.  I did swap the VR tube.

Something Garey mentioned made me check the T-4XB schematic.  If that 
schematic is
accurate, Drake put the filter inside the PTO at some point or just for 
the T-4XB.  I'm
suspecting this was done for all PTO's at some point, as I couldn't 
imagine Drake building
different versions of the PTO at the same time (of course, not 
everything follows what I
or anyone else would consider logical...).  This could allow me to try 
temporarily
bypassing the filter board.  I did notice that shielded cable went 
directly to the PTO
when I removed it.  Given these differences, it also looks like I'll be 
ripping the
receiver apart (again!) to put the original PTO back in.

Arrrgh...




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Re: [Drakelist] You just know I'm not going to have any hair left...

[Garey Barrell]

Steve -

That's NOT an output filter, it's the Collector circuit of the buffer stage.  It's drawn in the Pi 
arrangement, but it's a 'matching' configuration (note the 'different value' caps on each end).  The 
output filter, external to the PTO in the receivers ONLY, is a true Pi lowpass filter.  If you look 
at the schematic for the receiver PTO, you'll see that it has the same 'matching' circuit inside the 
PTO, just drawn differently.  Obviously, the Common-base buffer in the early receivers has a 
different matching network, but ALL the transmitters have Common-emitter buffers.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Steve Wedge wrote:

Yeah and that was the strange thing: I see the filter INSIDE the PTO (i.e., 
inside the dashed lines of the PTO assembly) on the T-4XB schematic.  I haven't 
checked the T-4X yet.  The R-4B has the filter on one of the external boards 
under the chassis.  It just strikes me as funny that they wouldn't have 
standardized the PTO amongst the transmitter and receiver for any given time 
period.

I'm stopping by my club room today to borrow the parts cabinets.  I'm going to 
really need them when I start work on the R-4B...

73,

Steve, W1ES/4

-Original Message-

From: Garey Barrellk4...@mindspring.com
Sent: Aug 21, 2011 10:20 PM
To: Steve Wedgew1es1...@earthlink.net, drakelistDrakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] You just know I'm not going to have any hair left...

Steve -

NONE of the T-4X(any) had the low-pass filter on the output of the PTO.  Only 
the receivers used the
filter, and only in version 2 of the R-4A and up.

It would be OK to just bypass the LP filter in the receiver for testing 
purposes.   Also, don't
gloss over the possibility of a bad, (cracked?), or just noisy resistor at R49. 
 Or even poor solder
on those associated connections.

Also, don't overlook the possibility of erratic or intermittent operation of 
the BAND oscillator
(listen at 18.1 MHz on 40M).

Possible other resistors associated with V8 are noisy.  Since you have no 
jitter in TRANSCEIVE (XMTR
control) the problem is in the BAND, PTO or PreMixer, as these are all disabled 
in XMTR mode.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Steve Wedge wrote:

I'm going to have to look again.  I did swap the VR tube.

Something Garey mentioned made me check the T-4XB schematic.  If that schematic 
is accurate, Drake
put the filter inside the PTO at some point or just for the T-4XB.  I'm 
suspecting this was done
for all PTO's at some point, as I couldn't imagine Drake building different 
versions of the PTO at
the same time (of course, not everything follows what I or anyone else would 
consider
logical...).  This could allow me to try temporarily bypassing the filter 
board.  I did notice
that shielded cable went directly to the PTO when I removed it.  Given these 
differences, it also
looks like I'll be ripping the receiver apart (again!) to put the original PTO 
back in.

Arrrgh...


Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

I can't complain, but sometimes I still do.
- Joe Walsh

If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop!
- Original Message - From:kc9...@aol.com
To:w1es1...@earthlink.net
Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2011 6:11 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] You just know I'm not going to have any hair left...


Did you put a scope on the voltage to the PTO and watch it carefully?
As it fails?
73,
Lee, KC9CDT



-Original Message-
From: Steve Wedgew1es1...@earthlink.net
To: Eddy Swynardeswy...@xplornet.ca
Cc: drakelistdrakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Sun, Aug 21, 2011 5:30 pm
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] You just know I'm not going to have any hair
left...


That's the thing: it's a different PTO that was working properly before
I transplanted it.

Looks like I've got to try replacing the components on the filter
board. Something is pulling the frequency...

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4





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[Drakelist] R4B

[BRIAN WINGARD]

Hi, I am new to the list and Drake equipment. Just picked up a B line minus the 
power supply  for the TX-4B. The R-4B was dead in the water.  The  first mixer 
osc was intermintant.  That seems to be fixed. Now I have low sensitiviy but 
working . The AVC voltages seem ok and the tubes all checked good.  All the AVC 
voltages  around -1.1  any varying with signals to the 2 volt range. Anyway  my 
question is where can I purchase a good quality  schematic  ? 
 
Thanks
 
Brian
 
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Re: [Drakelist] R4B

[Garey Barrell]

Brian -

S/N  ??

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


BRIAN WINGARD wrote:
Hi, I am new to the list and Drake equipment. Just picked up a B line minus the power supply  for 
the TX-4B. The R-4B was dead in the water.  The  first mixer osc was intermintant.  That seems to 
be fixed. Now I have low sensitiviy but working . The AVC voltages seem ok and the tubes all 
checked good.  All the AVC voltages  around -1.1  any varying with signals to the 2 volt range. 
Anyway  my question is where can I purchase a good quality  schematic  ?

Thanks
Brian
N4DKD



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Re: [Drakelist] R4B

[Brian]

The r-4b  is 13516C and the t-4xb is 18199b


On Mon, 2011-08-22 at 10:54 -0400, Garey Barrell wrote:

 Brian -
 
 S/N  ??
 
 73, Garey - K4OAH
 Glen Allen, VA
 
 Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
 and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
 www.k4oah.com
 
 
 BRIAN WINGARD wrote:
  Hi, I am new to the list and Drake equipment. Just picked up a B line minus 
  the power supply  for 
  the TX-4B. The R-4B was dead in the water.  The  first mixer osc was 
  intermintant.  That seems to 
  be fixed. Now I have low sensitiviy but working . The AVC voltages seem ok 
  and the tubes all 
  checked good.  All the AVC voltages  around -1.1  any varying with signals 
  to the 2 volt range. 
  Anyway  my question is where can I purchase a good quality  schematic  ?
  Thanks
  Brian
  N4DKD
 


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Re: [Drakelist] R4B

[Don Cunningham]

Brian,
Garey has likely already sent you the schematics you need, and he won't tell 
you about this, BUT I will!!!  Garey sells a CD set for the B Line that will 
knock your socks off (shows you how old I am, huh??)!!!  It has photographs, 
labels parts locations and ALL kinds of data you need to keep that B line 
running well.  Check it out on his site, WWW.K4OAH.com .   I have each of his 
CD for the Drakes I have and find them the best tool I have.

 There, now you know the secret, and the author is on hand to help with 
problems, what a bonus that is!!
73, and enjoy the B Line, I know you will,
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[Drakelist] New to the list

[Mike M]

Hello -
I just bought a set of B-line equipment and I am eager to get it up and
running.  My elmers ran B or C line gear and I've always wanted to have a
set of my own.
As far as I can tell, both the T-4XB and the R-4B work fine.  I think the
transmitter is putting out about 40 watts on CW.  My first project is going
to be to install three conductor power cables on both the receiver and the
power supply.
I'm looking forward to learning more about these great radios on this list!

73,
Mike, AL7MM
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Re: [Drakelist] New to the list

[Garey Barrell]

Mike -

Welcome!

Rather than tear up the rear panel of this receiver, it HAS a threaded ground stud.  Use that to 
connect it to the transmitter, which has a similar stud, and put your three wire power cord on the 
AC-4.


There is no reason to butcher a 3-wire power cord into the receiver.

The transmitter should put out at least 120W on CW.  How much output do you get in TUNE mode?  The 
transmit ALC kicks in around 130W output and you should reach that output at about 11 o'clock of the 
GAIN control.  It is normal to have to increase the GAIN control in CW for maximum output, sometimes 
at 2 o'clock or more.


If this is your first tube transmitter, read the manual CAREFULLY and be sure you understand the 
tune up procedure.  If you're unsure about anything, ask here or elsewhere for clarification.  
Improper (slow) tune up, i.e., off resonance, can destroy the PA tubes fairly quickly.  One KEY 
concept to keep in mind is that the FIRST and LAST thing you do when tuning is to  _DIP THE PLATE_  
control.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Mike M wrote:

Hello -
I just bought a set of B-line equipment and I am eager to get it up and running.  My elmers ran B 
or C line gear and I've always wanted to have a set of my own.
As far as I can tell, both the T-4XB and the R-4B work fine.  I think the transmitter is putting 
out about 40 watts on CW.  My first project is going to be to install three conductor power cables 
on both the receiver and the power supply.

I'm looking forward to learning more about these great radios on this list!

73,
Mike, AL7MM



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Re: [Drakelist] New to the list

[Ron]

Mike,
Might look at this 
http://www.mail-archive.com/drakelist@zerobeat.net/msg01540.html
for a save your finals way to get really close to a perfect tune w/o putting 
a signal on the air or stressing your finals.

You may also want to just have a look around the archives for some interesting 
reading about the Drake equipment.

http://www.mail-archive.com/drakelist@zerobeat.net/

Welcome aboard!!

73,
Ron WD8SBB

--- On Mon, 8/22/11, Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com wrote:

 From: Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com
 Subject: Re: [Drakelist] New to the list
 To: Mike M alaskam...@gmail.com
 Cc: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Date: Monday, August 22, 2011, 4:17 PM
 Mike -
 
 Welcome!
 
 Rather than tear up the rear panel of this receiver, it HAS
 a threaded ground stud.  Use that to connect it to the
 transmitter, which has a similar stud, and put your three
 wire power cord on the AC-4.
 
 There is no reason to butcher a 3-wire power cord into the
 receiver.
 
 The transmitter should put out at least 120W on CW. 
 How much output do you get in TUNE mode?  The transmit
 ALC kicks in around 130W output and you should reach that
 output at about 11 o'clock of the GAIN control.  It is
 normal to have to increase the GAIN control in CW for
 maximum output, sometimes at 2 o'clock or more.
 
 If this is your first tube transmitter, read the manual
 CAREFULLY and be sure you understand the tune up
 procedure.  If you're unsure about anything, ask here
 or elsewhere for clarification.  Improper (slow) tune
 up, i.e., off resonance, can destroy the PA tubes fairly
 quickly.  One KEY concept to keep in mind is that the
 FIRST and LAST thing you do when tuning is to  _DIP THE
 PLATE_  control.
 
 73, Garey - K4OAH
 Glen Allen, VA
 
 Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
 and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
 www.k4oah.com
 
 
 Mike M wrote:
  Hello -
  I just bought a set of B-line equipment and I am eager
 to get it up and running.  My elmers ran B or C line
 gear and I've always wanted to have a set of my own.
  As far as I can tell, both the T-4XB and the R-4B work
 fine.  I think the transmitter is putting out about 40
 watts on CW.  My first project is going to be to
 install three conductor power cables on both the receiver
 and the power supply.
  I'm looking forward to learning more about these great
 radios on this list!
  
  73,
  Mike, AL7MM
 
 
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[Drakelist] R-4A XTAL Band Oscillator

[Steve Wedge]

I've got the receiver sitting upside-down with the bottom cover off, waiting 
for it to start its dance.  I happened to probe around, and both at the wire at 
the output and the piece of buss wire going to the bandswitch (and the 
crystals) I can pull the frequency.

The supply voltage is around 11V.  When the receiver starts warbling and 
jumping around, I can see the waveform at the output slightly jumping.

Now - something else that's interesting: There's about 0.1V p-p of RF ripple on 
the 11V supply.  I tried bypassing it with caps on hand but couldn't make the 
ripple go away.

I'll be digging into the 11V supply that's fed off the +160.  The 11v is 
derived from the 0B2 gas regulator.  I had previously swapped tubes and it 
didn't have an effect.

More as I find it...

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

I can't complain, but sometimes I still do.
- Joe Walsh

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[Drakelist] FS: TR-3, $125

[Al Parker]

Hi folks,
	I spent many hours resurrecting this dead on arrival TR-3 for a 
fellow who then ran into finance shortcomings.  He said to sell it.

 It does not have a power supply.  It's working reasonably well.
  	It gets approx. 200w out on 3.8, 7.25, 14.25 mc, 100+ on 21.25, 
approx. 90 on 28.3.  Receives well.  I've demo'd it on 3.8.
	Chassis is fairly clean, it's bright plated, not copper like later 
rigs.  Case could use a repaint.


The following is a quick summary of what was done.   TR-3 s/n 60001

1.  AC switch is bad, replacements are very hard to find.  It’s “ON”, so 
use a “power strip”
2.  Replaced final cathode resistors with 15 ohm 1-watters, screen res. 
with 68 ohm 1-watters, all were out of spec.  Plate dropping res. for 
the driver was high, 695 vs 470, now repl with a 3-watter.
3. C-135, -145, electrolytics, all had high ESR.  Replaced with discrete 
components under the chassis, disconnected the original cans.
4. C-129, at the 9mc osc., broken.  Replaced with a similar one, mounted 
above chassis (not “proper” but serves the purpose).
5.  Re-calibrated the plate current meter, it was indicating about 2/3 
of actual.
6.  Someone had modified the neutralization ckt to make it close to what 
is used in later TR-4’s, but didn’t do one thing properly.  Now have it 
working reasonably well.  S-meter has quit to stay, coil is open. 
Neutralization is OK on low bands, poor on 15  10 meters, I advise not 
using those bands, or it can be adjusted to use those bands and not the 
lower ones.  New finals might be OK.
	I will ship at actual Fedex cost, plus $5 for packing and my trip to 
the terminal.  I can deliver to the Shelby 'fest, Thurs. PM - Sat. AM, 
9/1-3, if paid in advance.  Pers. ck OK with short waiting period, USPS 
or bank M.O. no wait, if PayPal, add $5 to cover fees.

IIRC about 25 lbs, from zip 28560, you can ck Fedex.com for est.
73,

Al, W8UT
New Bern, NC
www.boatanchors.org
www.hammarlund.info

There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much
worth doing as simply messing about in boats
Ratty, to Mole

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Re: [Drakelist] You just know I'm not going to have any hair left...

[Jim Shorney]

On Mon, 22 Aug 2011 09:02:27 -0400 (GMT-04:00), Steve Wedge wrote:

I didn't think you could get that stuff anymore but am pleasantly surprised 
that Amazon has several different products that will do the job.  I'm 
thinking, however, that Petco might have it, as I noticed that what appears to 
be the identical product - with a different label - is marketed to dog owners 
who use it to freeze messes prior to picking them up :-)

A can of compressed air used upside down makes a pretty good freeze spray.

73

-Jim



--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] Cooling fan

[Don Cunningham]

It's a VERY good idea to run fans on the tops of our tube Drakes.  Tubes are 
getting higher and higher and harder to find.  A slow moving fan, sucking air 
out of the cabinet will lower the temperature to cool to the touch, in my 
experience!!  I put rubber feet on the fans or a piece of insulating foam 
around the rim, and let them run.  Good 220v ones will run slowly on 110v, and 
provide plenty of cooling.
73,
Don, WB5HAK
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Re: [Drakelist] Cooling fan

[Jim Shorney]

On Tue, 23 Aug 2011 03:45:42 -, Henry Foglesong wrote:

I hear conflicting opinions about the advisability of using a cooling fan (eg: 
muffin fan) on top of the finals of T-4XB and XC transmitters.  Any opinions 
in this group?

Are you happier when you are cooler? Can you work longer in an air conditioned
environment? :)

Fans help keep things cool. No quesion about it. Heat is bad  for components.
From http://www.pcpower.com/technology/optemps/ :

The life of an electronic device is directly related to its operating
temperature. Each 10°C (18°F) temperature rise reduces component life by 50%*.
Conversely, each 10°C (18°F) temperature reduction increases component life by
100%. 

* Based on the Arrhenius equation, which says that time to failure is a
function of e-Ea/kT where Ea = activation energy of the failure mechanism being
accelerated, k = Boltzmann's constant, and T = absolute temperature.

Of course, in this context they are specifically talking about silicon devices,
but I believe that all electronic components suffer decreased life from
increased heat. Some of these parts in our radios are getting increasignly hard
to find, so why NOT add a fan to extend life?

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] Cooling fan

[K9sqg]

Not sure what the conflict is.  Having a fan pull hot air out of the cabinet is 
good for the finals, and frequency stability.





-Original Message-
From: Henry Foglesong hwfogles...@gmail.com
To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Mon, Aug 22, 2011 7:46 pm
Subject: [Drakelist] Cooling fan


I hear conflicting opinions about the advisability of using a cooling fan (eg: 
muffin fan) on top of the finals of T-4XB and XC transmitters.  Any opinions in 
this group?
 
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Re: [Drakelist] Cooling fan

[mike bryce]

Boys and girls,

this was a timely subject

I should have by the end of the month a few prototype pcbs for a fan controller 
for the drake radios. They will work with ANY TR series as well as any of the R 
series receivers

Without getting into too much details, the circuit is contained on a small 
double sided pcb. Two wires are required with a third one optional

power is stolen from the 6.3 v ac filament from the back of the dial light

here's how it works

when you turn your radio one, the fan will come up to full speed for three 
seconds then automatically drop down to a speed you set by a trimmer. The high 
to low speed is designed to give older fans or larger fans enough juice to 
start. After they get spinning, they drop to the other lower speed, again that 
one is adjustable, too.

if you use the third wire connection, it goes to the external amp key line and 
when you go to tune, or transmit, the fan will automatically go back to high 
speed, again you set how fast 'high' speed is

the pcb is about 2 square. will drive any 12 vdc fan up to 500 ma.

will work on any tube base radio be it a transmitter or receiver.

cost TBD, but about $25ish dollars

mike

Mike, WB8VGE
SunLight Energy Systems
The Heathkit Shop
http://www.theheathkitshop.com/
J e e p
o|||o 

A man with one clock knows what time it is. A man with two clocks is never 
sure. 




On Aug 22, 2011, at 11:49 PM, Don Cunningham wrote:

 It's a VERY good idea to run fans on the tops of our tube Drakes.  Tubes are 
 getting higher and higher and harder to find.  A slow moving fan, sucking air 
 out of the cabinet will lower the temperature to cool to the touch, in my 
 experience!!  I put rubber feet on the fans or a piece of insulating foam 
 around the rim, and let them run.  Good 220v ones will run slowly on 110v, 
 and provide plenty of cooling.
 73,
 Don, WB5HAK
  
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