[Drakelist] Yet Another TR7 Question

[Don Cunningham]

Garey,
Help an old man's brain remember something from the past.  If the AC fan on 
my TR7 runs after I shut off the "RCVR GAIN" switch, does that tell me that 
the DC portion of the switch is working, but the "other side", the AC side 
is not??  I seem to remember that the TR7 has separate sections on that 
switch, and thought I'd ask before I pull the panel down, OR I'll just turn 
it off and on with the power strip and be happy, hi.  I do have a parts rig 
with perhaps a good switch in it.

73,
Don, WB5HAK 



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Re: [Drakelist] Stuck screw in PTO knob.

[Garey Barrell]

Steve -

Be sure and inspect that shaft before you  put the knob on again.  Twisting one off like that will 
often leave a spiral groove with raised edges on the shaft.  Burnish it down until smooth with fine 
sandpaper or steel wool.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Steve Wedge wrote:

We have a winner!
I could not get that screw to back out with PB Blaster, WD40, heat from the hair dryer, or freeze 
spray.  I noticed the knob wasn't on overly tight (a good thing this time).  I wiggled it and it 
loosened up a little, then held (gently) the shaft inside the frame (just inside of the ball 
bearings) with a stout needle-nosed pliers and turned whilst pulling.  It came off!
The screw was stripped in the CCW direction.  I hit it with a little more PB Blaster, then 
heat-soaked it in a 250* oven for half an hour.  Still no CCW, so turned it CW until it wouldn't 
go any further (the screw was so long, it hit the other side of the hole! With a little more PB, I 
coaxed it back in and got it out finally.  Had some more setscrews in my hardware cabinet, so I'm 
all set with this one!
Thanks to all for the suggestions.  I was lucky to be able to twist the knob off so that I could 
turn the screw further in.

73,
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
"I can't complain, but sometimes I still do."
- Joe Walsh
If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop!

- Original Message -
*From:* Chuck Grandgent 
*To:* Steve Wedge 
*Sent:* Tuesday, September 06, 2011 9:22 PM
*Subject:* Re: [Drakelist] Stuck screw in PTO knob.

Hi Steve,

WD-40 is not really a lubricant, it is a "water dispersal" (hence the "WD" 
in the name)
mixture, though it has some lubricant properties.  I have made that mistake 
myself, for
example trying to use it to lubricate the hinges on the doors in the house, 
where 3-in-1 oil
was clearly the better choice.

I dunno what would be the recommended thing for your predicament, but I'm 
sure folk will chime in.

For loosening up stuff on the 1950's tractors I got, "PB Blaster" is the 
chosen stuff, though
it might be totally inappropriate here.  Actually, another thing does come 
to mind...  I
rotate my own truck tires, and when the shop tightened them too much, 
Marvel Mystery Oil
really did the trick, let it sit a few hours.

Good luck,

   Chuck, K1OM

On Tue, Sep 6, 2011 at 9:06 PM, Steve Wedge mailto:w1es1...@earthlink.net>> wrote:

I've put a couple of drops of WD-40 down the hole after bending one 
screwdriver trying to
get the setscrew backed out.
Has anyone used anything else to free a stuck screw?  I'm now wondering 
if the WD-40 might
not swell the plastic, exacerbating the problem...



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Re: [Drakelist] Stuck screw in PTO knob.

[Curt Nixon]

Thats luck Steve:

I would sometimes rather be lucky than good!

Not sure who suggested it, but they never tried drilling a hardened set 
screw out of a plastic housing.  Not much chance of that happening in a 
normal home shop---even a toolmaker would cringe at trying that.


Oh OH Ohhere's a way to get stripped screws out:  COnnect the ground 
lead of your welder to the shaft.  Connect the hot welder lead to a pc 
of good steel stock and shove it down the whole so it welds itself to 
the screw.  Now use the welded on "extension" to remove the screw.


Not sure I would try it on a museum quality radio, but hey, mine don't 
all look that great anyway!  ;)


with tongue planted firmly against cheek...

Curt
KU8L

Steve Wedge wrote:

We have a winner!
 
I could not get that screw to back out with PB Blaster, WD40, heat 
from the hair dryer, or freeze spray.  I noticed the knob wasn't on 
overly tight (a good thing this time).  I wiggled it and it loosened 
up a little, then held (gently) the shaft inside the frame (just 
inside of the ball bearings) with a stout needle-nosed pliers and 
turned whilst pulling.  It came off!
 
The screw was stripped in the CCW direction.  I hit it with a little 
more PB Blaster, then heat-soaked it in a 250* oven for half an hour.  
Still no CCW, so turned it CW until it wouldn't go any further (the 
screw was so long, it hit the other side of the hole! With a little 
more PB, I coaxed it back in and got it out finally.  Had some more 
setscrews in my hardware cabinet, so I'm all set with this one!
 
Thanks to all for the suggestions.  I was lucky to be able to twist 
the knob off so that I could turn the screw further in.
 
73,
 
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
 
"I can't complain, but sometimes I still do."

- Joe Walsh
 
If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop!


- Original Message -
*From:* Chuck Grandgent 
*To:* Steve Wedge 
*Sent:* Tuesday, September 06, 2011 9:22 PM
*Subject:* Re: [Drakelist] Stuck screw in PTO knob.

Hi Steve,

WD-40 is not really a lubricant, it is a "water dispersal" (hence
the "WD" in the name) mixture, though it has some lubricant
properties.  I have made that mistake myself, for example trying
to use it to lubricate the hinges on the doors in the house, where
3-in-1 oil was clearly the better choice.

I dunno what would be the recommended thing for your predicament,
but I'm sure folk will chime in.

For loosening up stuff on the 1950's tractors I got, "PB Blaster"
is the chosen stuff, though it might be totally inappropriate
here.  Actually, another thing does come to mind...  I rotate my
own truck tires, and when the shop tightened them too much, Marvel
Mystery Oil really did the trick, let it sit a few hours.

Good luck,

   Chuck, K1OM

On Tue, Sep 6, 2011 at 9:06 PM, Steve Wedge
mailto:w1es1...@earthlink.net>> wrote:

I've put a couple of drops of WD-40 down the hole after
bending one screwdriver trying to get the setscrew backed out.
 
Has anyone used anything else to free a stuck screw?  I'm now

wondering if the WD-40 might not swell the plastic,
exacerbating the problem...
 
73,
 
Steve Wedge, W1ES/4
 
To be is to do - Socrates

To do is to be - Plato
Do be do be do. - Sinatra
 
All my computers have my signature with various pearls of

wisdom appended thereto.

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Re: [Drakelist] Stuck screw in PTO knob.

[Steve Wedge]

We have a winner!

I could not get that screw to back out with PB Blaster, WD40, heat from the 
hair dryer, or freeze spray.  I noticed the knob wasn't on overly tight (a good 
thing this time).  I wiggled it and it loosened up a little, then held (gently) 
the shaft inside the frame (just inside of the ball bearings) with a stout 
needle-nosed pliers and turned whilst pulling.  It came off!

The screw was stripped in the CCW direction.  I hit it with a little more PB 
Blaster, then heat-soaked it in a 250* oven for half an hour.  Still no CCW, so 
turned it CW until it wouldn't go any further (the screw was so long, it hit 
the other side of the hole! With a little more PB, I coaxed it back in and got 
it out finally.  Had some more setscrews in my hardware cabinet, so I'm all set 
with this one!

Thanks to all for the suggestions.  I was lucky to be able to twist the knob 
off so that I could turn the screw further in.

73,

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

"I can't complain, but sometimes I still do."
- Joe Walsh

If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop!
  - Original Message - 
  From: Chuck Grandgent 
  To: Steve Wedge 
  Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2011 9:22 PM
  Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Stuck screw in PTO knob.


  Hi Steve,

  WD-40 is not really a lubricant, it is a "water dispersal" (hence the "WD" in 
the name) mixture, though it has some lubricant properties.  I have made that 
mistake myself, for example trying to use it to lubricate the hinges on the 
doors in the house, where 3-in-1 oil was clearly the better choice.

  I dunno what would be the recommended thing for your predicament, but I'm 
sure folk will chime in.

  For loosening up stuff on the 1950's tractors I got, "PB Blaster" is the 
chosen stuff, though it might be totally inappropriate here.  Actually, another 
thing does come to mind...  I rotate my own truck tires, and when the shop 
tightened them too much, Marvel Mystery Oil really did the trick, let it sit a 
few hours.

  Good luck,

 Chuck, K1OM


  On Tue, Sep 6, 2011 at 9:06 PM, Steve Wedge  wrote:

I've put a couple of drops of WD-40 down the hole after bending one 
screwdriver trying to get the setscrew backed out.

Has anyone used anything else to free a stuck screw?  I'm now wondering if 
the WD-40 might not swell the plastic, exacerbating the problem...

73,

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

To be is to do - Socrates
To do is to be - Plato
Do be do be do. - Sinatra

All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended 
thereto.


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Re: [Drakelist] R4B PTO indicator...

[Don Cunningham]

Thanks, Paul, I wanted to say it was that easy, but as I said, I haven't 
been there so wasn't sure.  It wasn't worth tearing the case off mine to 
see, hi.

73,
Don, WB5HAK 



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Re: [Drakelist] R4B PTO indicator...

[Paul Christensen]

Revesing the leads is about as much work as replacing the lamp and I 
am not sure it works.


I swapped my neon lamp leads on the PCB, not at the panel.  About a minute 
of easy soldering and well worth the try.


Paul, W9AC 



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Re: [Drakelist] R4B PTO indicator...

[Richard Knoppow]

- Original Message - 
From: "Don Cunningham" 
To: "Fred or Ski" ; "drakelist" 


Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2011 8:13 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4B PTO indicator...



Ski,
I haven't done this, but saw a "hint" once that you could 
reverse the leads on the neon lamp and get more useful 
life out of it.  Might be worth a try if you don't have a 
spare.  Sometimes it's just a dirty switch contact on the 
"transceive" switch in the T4XC too.

73,
Don, WB5HAK


Revesing the leads is about as much work as replacing 
the lamp and I am not sure it works. Lamps are available 
cheap, a few dollars for a box of ten. Changing them 
requires removing the front panel, not difficult. The strike 
voltage goes up on old lamps and also the lamps get dimmer, 
old ones become blackened just like incandescant lamps. With 
some care you can re-use the insulating sleeving.
A warning: the spacers for the panels are easy to 
loose. I work in a shallow box to hold any small parts that 
want to go flying.



--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles
WB6KBL
dickb...@ix.netcom.com 



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Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 39, Issue 10

[Nigel A. Gunn]

For the lower frequencies, you need to use the aux antenna connection on 
one of the big comnnectors on the back.



On 07-Sep-11 16:00, drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net wrote:

Message: 5
Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2011 10:57:43 -0500
From: Woody
To: Drake List
Subject: [Drakelist] TR7&  AM Broadcast
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

*The TR7 that I have has at some point had the mod done it to where it will
receive everywhere, when you put the Aux program sw. in the  1, 2 or 3
position. In the 1 position receive from 800 to 1600 or so the am stations
are clear but in the 2 position where you would receive the normal AM radio
it is not plain at and doesn't pick up well. Is this normal? Or was the mod
not done correctly? I had found the mod on one of the web sites and got to
fooling around and found that it had been done, Not that I use this often
just found it was there and wondering.
*



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[Drakelist] TR7 & AM Broadcast

[Woody]

*The TR7 that I have has at some point had the mod done it to where it will
receive everywhere, when you put the Aux program sw. in the  1, 2 or 3
position. In the 1 position receive from 800 to 1600 or so the am stations
are clear but in the 2 position where you would receive the normal AM radio
it is not plain at and doesn't pick up well. Is this normal? Or was the mod
not done correctly? I had found the mod on one of the web sites and got to
fooling around and found that it had been done, Not that I use this often
just found it was there and wondering.
*
*Thanks Again*
*Woody*
*"Still Looking for a L7"*
-- 
* *
   * If you forward this e-mail, please delete the forwarding history, which
includes my email address.   It is a courtesy to me and to others who do not
wish to have their e-mail addresses sent all over the world.  *
* *
*   ** If you are including me in a multi-address email,** please use the**
Bcc **feature.** In your email address which will be under the TO: block. It
still sends emails the same but everyone does not see the other address only
theirs. *
*Thanks*
*"Woody"*
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Re: [Drakelist] Stuck screw in PTO knob.

[Steve Wedge]

That's on my Last Resort list :)  This was going to be a quick clean and a flip - funny how project creep kicks in right at the beginning.
'ES
-Original Message- From: Gary Poland Sent: Sep 6, 2011 9:48 PM To: Steve Wedge , Drake List Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Stuck screw in PTO knob. 


Drill out the set screw and re-tap the knob once its removed ...
 
73. Gary

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Re: [Drakelist] R4B PTO indicator...

[Paul Christensen]

> 1) Replace the lamp with a fresh one and wait for it to drift upward (that 
> could buy you a year or many years).
> 2) Reduce the value of the dropping resistor and take a chance that the 
> transistor won't break down under the extra voltage present.
> 3) Upgrade the transistor to a high voltage rating device and get rid of the 
> dropping resistor entirely (permanent fix and what Drake should have done in 
> my opinion).

As a "Hail Mary Pass," a fourth option may work as it did on my R-4B.  Simply 
reverse the neon lamp leads.  When a DC voltage is used on a neon lamp, only 
one pole is active with light.  For whatever reason, going to the unused pole 
may cause re-establish proper firing.  

Mine was intermittent at normal utility voltage (125V here in my area) but I 
wanted to begin using CL-90 voltage dropping Thermistors to bring line voltage 
down to 117V from 125V.  I couldn't get the neon lamp to fire at all with 117V, 
but simply reversing the lamp leads allowed it to fire down to 110V.  I won't 
even begin to try and explain the chemistry and physics that made it happen but 
it's certainly worth a try.

Paul, W9AC

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